Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
1064277
commerclally. Use of compllcated stitch constructlons
to impart patterning drastlcally modlfles tactlle aes-
thetlcs and also necessltate6 knlttlng at lower, more
expensive rstes. m e fabrlcs of the present inventlon not
only retain the tactlle and visual Aesthetlcs of prlor
art ~abrics knltted uslng the sBme baslc knlttlng stltches,
that 18, wlthout the need to leave out selected ends vla
speclal beams or the use of compllcated stltches, but they
alfio provlde surface-interest patternlng. Thus, for the
first time, baslc warp knlts can be used where their tactile
aesthetlcs are desired but where thelr lack of surrace
patterning has heretorore prevented use.
Thls lnventlon provldes a warp knltted fabrlc
o~ full sets of front and back bar warp threads of yarn
knltted in courses accordlng to a stitch pattern ~orming
spaced wales of knitted loops and having a continuous
p~ttern throughout its length. m e pattern includes at
eBst one group of wales separated from ad~acent wales by
exaggerated spacing. In additlon the knitted loops vary
in shape, siz2, orientation and spacing cour6e-wise in a
sequence which repeats ln alternate courses when knitted
with basic warp knlttlng ætitches as hereinafter descrlbed.
Almost any yarns useful for known warp knit
processlng may be used in making fabric according to this
invention. Included are synthetic the~moplastic yarns
in either filament or spun staple form, yarns spun from
natural ribers, and yarns from mixtures of ~ynthetic and
natural ribers.
me fabric, in accordance with the inventlon,
i~ prererably made on a tricot or similar warp knittlng
1064Z~7
machlne employlng a slngle needle bar and at least two
yarn gulde bars respectlvely known a8 the back guide bar
and the front guide bar. The needle bar is provlded with
knitting needles whlch may vary in number accordlng to
the gauge of the machlne, and each guide bar has a number
of yarn guides correspondine to the number of needles Or
the needle bar. The gulde bars are able to be shogged
under patte m control a distance of one or more needles ln
opposlte directions lengthwise of the needle bar, and both
guide bars are also swingable transversely of the needle
bar to permit their yarn guldes to pass between the needles,
the combined shogging and swinging movements permltting
the yarns to be ~ed to the needles and to be knit thereby.
The inventlon also lncludes three methods for
knltting the rabrics of thls inventlon as descrlbed herein:
1. In a fully threaded two guide bar warp
knitting machine by interchanging some Or the threads from
one guide bar wlth threads from the other guide bar in a
spaced patte m ahead Or the guide bars on the knltting
machine. While lt is preferred to achieve patterning
erfects by interchanging ~ront and back bar threads ahead
Or their guide bars, substantially the same effect~ result
when only one end is crossed from one operating guide bar
to another.
2. In a fully threaded two guide bar warp knit-
ting machine by supplying one of the full sets of threads
to one of the euide bars from two partial sets of threads,
i.e., a mixed feeding of one guide bar. The partial sets
o~ threads are fed at dlfferent rates to the guide bar in
a pattern wherein predetermined groups of adJacent threads
-- 4 --
--
10~4277
from one partial set Or threads are separated from each
other by at least one thread from the other partial beam
set oi threads.
3. In a fully threaded two gulde bar warp
knitting machine by feeding a partlal beam set of threads
to spaced positions on at least one of the gulde bars,
i.e., partial double-ending one guide bar such that spaced
doubled ends are knitted together as a slngle end. me
partial beam set of threads is ~ed at a dirferent rate ~rom
the full beam set of threads.
Figs. lA to lJ are stitch pattern diagrams for
different types of basic warp-knitting with front and
back bars of each stitch construction shown separately.
Flg. 2 is a diagrammatic representation of a
portlon of a two bar warp-knit fabric having knltted loops
of Jersey stitches formed rrom fully threaded front and
back guid~ bars wherein the front guide bar is fed from
two partial sets of threads in a pattem.
Figs. 3 and 4 are photographs of fabrics made
as described in Example III by interchanging threads from
one guide bar to another.
Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are photographs o~ fabrics
made as described in Example VII.
Figs. 8, 9, and lO are photographs of fabrics
made as described in Examples IX, X, and XI, respectively. `-
"Basic warp-knitting", as intended herein, is
best defined in terms of stitch patterns, as shown in
Figs. lA to lJ, While many other pattern~ constitutlng
basic warp-knitting are theoretically posslble, the ones
shown represent mo~t of those used commercially. For
10~4Z77
each, a slngle needle-bar le normally employed, being
fed fro~n a front-bar and a back-bar o~ knlttlng ya2ns.
Knitting needle positions for each Or two successlve
courses are represented in the diagr~s by horizontal
lines of dots, the top llne representlng the course formed
~mediately after the course represented by the bottom
line. Only one front-bar end and one back-bar end are
shown in each lnstance, lt being understood that one end
of each 18 knltted on each knltting needle for every
course. More particularly, referring to Fig. lA, the
stitch construction of the fabric is notationally set out
and shows that the threads of the front bar, one of whlch
is indicated at 41, have back and forth movement to non-
ad~acent needles in successive coursee as indicated by
the numbers 2-3,1-0 and that the threads of the back bar,
one of which 18 indicated as 42, have similar movements
as indlcated by the numbers 1-0,1-2. The Delaware
stltches are partlcularly c~aracterized by chain-stitched
back-bar threads as indicated by the numbers l-0,0-l
(Figs. lG-lJ). mese may be open stitches (as shown) or
closed loops.
Fig. 2 schematically illustrates a two bar
~ra2~-knitted fabric prepared by the mixed feed method
wherein a single needle bed warp knitting machine is
employed and three wa~p sets of threads are supplied.
More particularly, threads lO are supplied from a front
beam to the front guide bar leavlng preselected spaced
positions open, threads l~ are supplied from a middle
beam also to the front guide bar to the preselected open
po~ltions rendering the front guide bar fully threaded,
- -- 6 --
.. , ~
. . - ,
10~4277
and threads 14 are supplied fror~ a back beam to ~ully
thread the back bar. mreads 12 are more highly ten-
sloned than threads 10, which is accompllshed by feeding
the threads 10 and 12 at dlfferent rates, whlch in turn
provides the difference ln tenslon. One method of set-
ting forth thls dlfrerence in tenslon i8 by the ratlo R
Or the runner length of threads 12 rrom the mlddle beam
to the runner length Or threads lO rrom the iront beam,
Runner length ls the length Or each ya2n used ln knltting
one rack (480 consecutlve couræes) Or stltches. mu8, a
for the mixed feed technlgue Or Flg. 2 the ratlo R 18
le~s than one. The gulde bars are so threaded and shogged
that the stltch pattern 18 a Jersey stitch with a 2-3,1-0
rully threaded front bar pattern and a 1-0,1-2 fully
threaded back bar pattern knlt in courses 20, 22, 24, and
26 of wale~ 21, 23, 25, 27 and 29 wherein the back or
float slde of the ~abrlc 18 shown for clarlty. It wlll
be noted that the fabric has a pattern throughout its
length Or a group of wales 23, 25, 27 separated from ad-
Jacent wales 21 and 29 by exaggerated spaces 16 and 18.
In addltion the knltted loops wlthin the pattern vary
course-wise in shape slze and orientation in a sequence
which repeats in alternate courses. More particularly,
the sequence of the loops of wales 23, 25, 27 in course 20
progressing rrom large to small and being canted toward
wale 29 i~ repeated in course 24 whereas the opposite se-
quence is found in alternate courses 22 and 26. ~: !
Flgs. 3-lO are enlarged photographs Or portlons
o~ rabrlc produced according to the above described
dirrerent methods and, as can be seen, all exhlbit the
" , ; ;.. ~
10642~7
e~agger~ted wale ~paclng wlth the knitted loops varylng
in shape, slze, orlentation and spacing in a se~uence
which repeats in ~lternate courses. These Figs. are
descrlbed in more detail in the following examples.
Conventional finishing procedures are suitable
for greige fabrics of this invention. In the examples,
except ior random selection of color of the disperse dyes
used, all grelge fabrics are finished identlcally. After
heat setting for thirty seconds at 380F (193C) on a
pin tenter frame at 10% overfeed and 5% underwldth, they
are scoured, washed, dyed, and again washed in a beck.
Scouring ls for thirty minutes at 180F (82C) using an
aqueous dispersion of surfactant and emulsified hydrocarbon
scouring solvent. Initial washing is for twenty minutes
at 160F ( n C) in water containing detergent. Arter
five minutes at 120F (49C) in water containing wetting
agent, dispersing agent, and a dye assi~t, pH ls ad~usted
to 6 with acetic acid, the selected dye i8 added, and
temperature i8 raised to 160F (71C) before adding butyl
benzoate dye carrier. Dyeing continues at the boil for
ninety minutes. Final washing identical to initial wash-
ing ends treatment ln the beck. Flnishing is completed
by heat setting at 350F (177C) on a pin tenter frame at
wet width and 5% overfeed.
The following terms are used in the Examples
and are deflned below:
Rack is defined as 480 consecutive courses
(knitted rows) of stltches.
Runner len~th is the length of each yarn used
3 in knitting one rack.
1064277
~ uallty denotes the length of one rack o~
knitted fabrlc.
Gauge speclfies the number of knlttlng needles
per inch (per 2.54 cm) in the needle bar.
Count (W/C) specifies the number of wales (W)
and couræes (C) per unit of length measured perpendlcular
to the fabric direction of each.
Greige (also, occasionally, "gray") describes
untreated fabric just as it comes from the knltting machine.
Before it is sold, the greige fabric is ordinarlly treated
by washing, scouring, dyeing, heat-setting, or the like,
a M er which it is referred to as "finished" fabric.
Bulk is computed from welght per unit area, W,
and from thickness, t, according to
Bulk ~ (t/W)x(units con~ersion factor).
When W is given in oz/yd2 and t in inches, Bulk in cc/gm
is computed ~rom
Bulk = (t/W)x748.5.
In the examples, Yarns A and B are both of 30
denier (33.3 dtex) and are prepared substantially as
described in Example I of Knospe, U.S. Patent No. 3,416,302.
Each filament has a trilobal cross-section as taught by
Holland in U.S. Patent No. 2,939,201. Yarn A has ten
filaments, and Yarn B has eighteen filament6. In each
yarn, half of the filaments are composed substantlally
of PACM-12 homopolymer and the other half of PACM-12/
PACM-I (90/10 by weight) copolymer. PACM denotes the
polymer unit corresponding to bis-(4-aminocyclohexyl)
methane; 12 denote6 the polymer unit corresponding to
dodecanedioic acid; and I denotes the polymer unlt corres-
_ 9 _
- . . ~
10f~4;~77
ponding to lsophthallc acld. The PACM employed containe
70~ by welght of its trans-trans isomer.
Yarn C is provided on partial beams only and is --
a commercially available crimped 30 denier (33.3 dtex)
round cross-section monofilament of poly-~-caproamide. It
is crimped as descrlbed by Rice in U.S. Patent No.
3,256,134.
In Examples I-V the fabrlcs are warp knltted
using ~tandard two-bar, fully threaded, trlcot knitting
machines. The top and back beams in each case feed
normally beamed knitting yarns of the same description.
As specified, three basic warp knitting stitches are
employed with the following front bar/back bar knitting
patterns:
Jersey stitch 2-3,1-0/1-0,1-2
Delaware stitch 2-3,1-0/1-0,0-1
Modified Jersey 1-0,2-3/2-3,1-0
In each case, the only modification to otherwise standard
and well-known knitting is the interchanging (crossing)
of corresponding spaced front and back bar threads at a
point between the respective beams and guide bars. The
arrangement for crossing spaced threads is substantially
as discussed in connection with Fig. 3. The distributlon
of crossed threads along consecutive euides in either
guide bar ls indicated by a series of symbols (0 or X)
where tlo" denotes a normally threaded end and "X"
denotes a cross thread, i.e.~ thread originating from
the opposite be~m from that which normally feeds the
guide bar involved. Thus, OOXOOOXOOOOX represents a
repeated distribution along successive positions on either
-- 10 -- -
- .
,
: . '; : ,
10~;4Z77
ponding to lsophthalic acld. The PACM employed contains
70~ by weight Or its trans-trans isomer.
Yarn C ls provided on partlal beams only and ls
a commercially available crimped 30 denier (33.3 dtex)
round cross-section monofilament of poly-~-caproamide. It
is crimped as descrlbed by Rice in U.S. Patent No.
3,256~134.
In Examples I-V the fabrics are warp knitted
using standard two-bar, fully threaded, tricot knitting
machines. The top and back beams in each case feed
normally beamed knitting yarns of the same description.
As specified, three basic warp knitting stitches are
employed with the following ~ront bar~back bar knitting
patterns:
Jersey stitch 2-3,1-0/1-0,1-2
Delaware stitch 2-3,1-0/1-0,0-1
Modifled Jer~ey 1-0,2-3/2-3,1-0
In each case, the only modification to otherwise standard
and well-~nown knitting is the lnterchanging (crossing)
of corresponding spaced front and back bar threads at a
point between the respective beams and guide bars. The
arrangement for crossing spaced threads is substantially
a8 dlscussed in connection with Fig. 3. m e distribution
of crossed threads along consecutive guides in either
gulde bar ls indicated by a serie~ of symbols (0 or X)
where "0" denotes a normally threaded end and "X"
denotes a cross thread, l.e., thread originating from
the opposite beam from that which normally feeds the
guide bar involved. Thus, OOXOOOXOOOOX represents a
repeated distribution along successive positions on either
-- 10 -
10~4Z77
guide bar where two threads are normally ~hreaded, one is
crossed, three are normally threaded, one is crossed,
four are normally threaded, and one is crossed. Unlike
customary Jersey or Delaware stitch fabrics, the fabrics
of the examples exhibit attractive longitudlnal wale-
shifted patterning which is readily varied for a multi-
plicity of patterned effects by selectlon of the spacing
of crossed ends and the type of stitch employed. While,
in the examples, the top and back bar ends are identical,
it is obvious that further enhancement o~ the pattern
occurs if the top and back bar ends differ in color or
dyeability.
Example I
A 28-gauge, fully threaded tricot knitting
machine is employed to produce three fabrics as identi-
~ied in Table I. (Table Ia being the metric converslon
for Table I) Yarn A, as prevlously described, is used
throughout. Every other end is crossed (OxOx, etc.) ln
bands ten or more wales wide separated by much wider por-
tions of normally knlt fabrics. Fabrics I-A and I-B use
the modified Jersey stitch, and Fabric I-C uses the Jersey
stltch.
Fabrics I-A and I-B, differing only ln quallty,
runner lengths, and resulting weights, have particularly
striking and attractlve patterning within the bands
containing the crossed ends. On the loop sides, norm-
ally knit wales are characterized by loops which zig-zag
alte m ately right and le~t, all loops in a given course
canted in the same directlon. In the bands containing
crossed ends, however, the same zig-zag of loops along a
-- 11 --
.. .
1064Z77
given wale occurs but adjacent loops along a glven course
are canted in opposite directions. The result ls a very
open, mesh-like appearance heretofore unobtainable by
bas1c tricot knitting. Moreover, each band has at its
juncture with normally knit portions a wale with uncanted
loops which frames the band in the fabric. It is apparent
that bands of any width, including the full fabric width,
can be so prepared.
Fabric I-C also haæ visi~le patterning bands,
but they are not so strikingly differentiated from
normally knit areas. Use of the Jersey stitch with
alternating crossed ends provides more subdued patterns
of longitudinal bands.
Example II
A 32-gauge fully threaded tricot knitting machine
ls used to produce three fabrics with every thirty-second
end crossed. Fabric II-A is prepared using the Jersey
stitch, and Fabrics II-B and II-C using the Delaware
stltch. Each is further described in Tables I and Ia.
Ya m B, as prevlously defined, was used throughout.
In all three fabrics narrow stripes o~ very
tightly associated three-wale groupings are formed, each
grouping including a crossed end and extending the full
length of the fabric. ~nterwale spacings on each side of
each grouping are wider than in the normally knit areas,
thus accentuating the longitudinal, visually striped
effect. The maximum float size in both Jersey and Delaware
stitches is three needles wide, the crossed end having
this float size accounting for the presence of three
tightly spaced wales in the grouping. Four-needle flo~ts
- 12 -
1064Z77
produce four-wale grouplngs, etc. m e number of normally
knit wales between crossed ends may be varied to produce
a variety of numbers and spacing of wale-grouped fabrlcs.
Example III
Bcept for the spacing of crossed ends, four
more ~abrics are prepared as in Example II and as charac-
terized in Tables I and Ia. Fabrics II-A, III-B, and
III-C use the Delaware stitch; Fabric III-D uses the Jer~ey
ætitch. Except for dl~ferenceæ in quality, runner length,
a~ weight Fabrics III-A, III-B, and III-C have equiva-
lently patterned effects, but Fabric III-D is quite
different. In all cases, the full fabric width is divlded
into six zones, each zone di~fering in spacing of crossed
ends with the following regular repeating patterns; each
pattern repeated:
Zone 1 OOX
Zone 2 OOOX
Zone 3 OOOOOX
Zone 4 OOOOOOOX
Zone 5 OOOOOOOOOOX
Zone 6 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOX
Considering the Delaware-stitch ~abrics first,
Zone 1 exhibits only a series of groupin~s of tightly
assoclated three-wale bands, each band separated from
the next by extra-wide interwale spacings, Zone 2 has
tight three-wale groupines alternating with single nor-
mally knit wales, interwale spacings on each side of each
three-wale grouping being extra-wide. Zone 3 is æimilar,
having three normally knit and spaced wales between three-
wale groupings. Zone 4 contlnues the æame pattern, having
- 13 -
10~;4Z77
flve normally knlt and spaced wales between three-wale
groupings.
Zone 5 (as shown ln Fig. 3) shows a new effect
of spontaneous additional wale-~hiftlng in the normally
knit wales between three-wale groupings. Delaware-stitch
fabric~ have an inherent tendency to form random two-wale
groupings. As seen ln Fig. 3, when the ends are crossed
to form three-wale groupings, the intervening normally
knit wales also regularly associate into two-wale groupings
continuously and uniformly throughout the length of the
fabric. This additional wale-shifting occurs when an
even number of normally knit wales is left between three-
wale groupings. Although not shown in the Table, two
two-wale groupings occur between ad~acent three-wale
groupings when every seventh end is crossed. Thus,
additional two-wale wale-shifted groupings occur when an
even number (~2) of normally knltted wales are formed
between crossed ends. The effect using Long Float
Delaware stitch (4-needle float) is analogous except that
the groupings including crossed ends are composed of four
wales and the additional groupings have three wales each.
m us~ when every ~eventh or every eleventh end is crossed
using ong Float Delaware stitch, one or two extra three-
wale groupings are formed between the always obtained
four-wale groupings including crossed ends.
Zone 6, having flfteen normally knit wales
between crossed ends, shows a combination of these two
eiiects. As in the previous fabrics, three_wale groupings
lncluding the crossed ends form. Wlth such wide spacing
3 between crossed ends, however, the fabric does not "know"
- 14 -
10~4277
whether there is an odd or even number of intervenlng
wales. It therefore forms extra two-wale groupings on
either side o~ the three-wale groupings. The remaining
wales are substantially normally knitted and spaced.
All Zones for Jersey-stitch Fabric III-D show
similar effects except that no additional wale shifting
occurs between three-wale groupings including crossed
ends. The three-wale groupings for these Jer~ey fabrics,
however, are split into a single wale with relatively
large stitch loops and a two-wale group of distorted
stitch loops, the remaining wales, i~ any, between ad-
Jacent crossed ends being normally knit and spaced. Fig.
4 shows Zone 5 or Fabric III-D.
Example IV
Except for the spacings of crossed ends, these
fabrics are prepared as described in Examples II and III.
Fabric ~V-B uses Jersey stitch, the remaining three use
Delaware stitch. In all four fabrics, the spacing of
crossed ends is in the following irregular repeating
pattern across the full fabric width:
OXOOXOXOOXOOOOOO.
A complicated combination of previously obtained longi-
tudinally striped effects is obtained.
Jer~ey Fabric IV-B exhibits no exaggerated
interwale spacings. Instead lt has groups of seven
normally knit and spaced wales separated by groups of
nine wales having varying degrees and t~pes of distorted
stitches . . . ~
The three Delaware-stitch fabrics all show ~ '!
distlnct interwale spacing between groups of wales. Each -~
. .
- 15 -
: . .
. . . . -
:.
~0~427~7
shows a group of five normally knlt and spaced wales
separated from a wide, a still wider, and another wide
close grouing of wales, in order These multiple group-
ings provide a distinct and attractive pattern of unifor~
longitudinal bands.
F~ample V
This example is just like Example IV except
~or a different spacing of crossed ends across the fabric
width. The repeat pattern is
OOOXOX.
Fabric V-B made using Jersey stitch, and
Fabrics V-A and V-C with Delaware stitch. Although there
are visually apparent stitch distortions along wales
including crossed ends, Fabric V-B shows no spaced group-
ings. Fabrics V-A and V-C, however, show dense wale
groupings alternating with single wales and separated
from th~m by pronounced inte~ale spacings.
1064Z77
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10~;4Z77
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1064277
EXAMPLE VI
Prevlous examples I through V have ~hown pattern-
ing effects achieved when, at spaced single-needle locatlons,
front and back bar ends are interchan~ed at their gulde bArs.
Thls example shows patternlng efrects obtained when, at
each oi the spaced slngle-needle locations, only one end
i8 cros~ed.
Three fabric~ were knltted, finished~ and dyed to
a deep red color. Yarn B, as previously descrlbed, was
used in all cases. A commercial 32-gauge 2-bar warp-
; knitting machine was employed. Runner lengths and fabric
properties are shown in Tableq II and IIa.
For fabrics VI-A and VI-B, both the front guide
bar and the back gulde bar were fully threaded inltlally
from their corresponding beams. Then selected ends were
crossed accordlng to the followlng pattern repeated across
the width of the fabric: -
1. Cut position 1 back bar end, cross it to position
1 of the front bar, and knit lt together wlth the ;`
front bar end already in thiq gulde bar position
as if the two ya m s were a single front bar end.
2. Leave the next 30 positions as initially threaded.
3c Cut position 32 front bar end, cro~s it to position
32 of the back bar, and knit it together with the
back bar end already in this guide bar poqitlon as
if the two yarns were a single back bar end~
4. Leave the next 30 positions as inltlally threaded.
Fabrlc VI-A was knit using the Jersey stitch (Fig.
lA). As vlewed on the loop face of the finiQhed and dyed
fabrlc, a visibly distinct and continuous strlpe was evident
- 18 -
".
.
'
10f~4Z77
throughout the length of the ~abrlc corresponding in posl-
tlon with each crossed end. The posltlon l vlslble strlpes
were about 3.6 normal ~ale-wldth~ wlde, and the posltlon
32 strlpes about 3.0 normal wale-widths wide. Examlned
microscopically, each posltlon l stripe was found to com-
prlse a central substantlally normal wale bounded on both
sldes by about wale-width spaclngs occupied only by stralght
substantlally transverse thread portlons. In additlon, one
wale boundlng each outside edge of these spaclngs had dls-
torted stltches. The po~ltlon 32 strlpes contained two
slde-by-side rows of loop-free distorted stltches, one more
open and wlder than the other and both less opaque than
areas formed of normal wales.
Fabric VI-B used threadlng identlcal to that Or
Fabrlc VI-A, but was knltted uslne the Delaware stltch
(Flg. lH). Viewed by eye the positlon l strlpes were seen
to extend over about 18 normal wale-wldths. Vlewed mlcro-
scopically, however, each was composed of a central sub-
stantially normal wale with greater than wale-width spaclngs
on both sldes contalnlng loop-free Rubstantially transverse
thread portions. Remaining wales on both sides o~ the
above-descrlbed portion were substantially normal in appear-
ance but had ~lightly enlarged interwale spacings between
palrs of wales, dlminlshing ln slze wlth lncreased dl~tance
rrom the central wale. m e posltion 32 stripes examined by
eye were at least 14 normal wale-wldths wlde. Mlcroscoplcally
they were seen to comprise a central palr of tlghtly adJacent
wale~ bounded on one slde by a greater than wale-wldth spac-
lng and on the other by a sllghtly wldened interwale spacing.
Moving outward from elther slde Or the above portion, larger
- 19 -
1064277
than normal lnterwale spaclngs, diminlshing ln width,
were observed between pairs of otherwise normal wales.
Fabric VI-C used ~he Delaware stitch as in Fabric
VI-B, but both supply beams were partial. As inltially
threaded, the front guide bar had an end mis~ing at each
position 1 of a 62 position repeat, and each back guide bar
had an end missing at each position 32. Then, at each
position 1 and position 32 the normally threaded end was cut
and crossed to be threaded through the empty position of the
other guide bar. Viewed by eye, the finished and dyed loop
face of this fabric looked almost exactly like Fabric VI-B
except that the visual wale-shifting effect at each position
was over slightly less fabric width. The central wale at
each position 1, however, was 80 distorted as to hardly be
recognized as a wale, and the interwale spacings on each
side of it were wider and even less opaque.
- 20 -
1064Z77
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_ 21 -
1064277
In Examples VII and VIII, a commercial 32 gauge
two-bar single needle bed warp knitting machine i9 em-
ployed. Three beams of knitting yarn are fed. The back
beam fully threads the back guide bar. A partial top beam
nearly fills the front guide bar but leaves preselected
spaced positions unthreaded. A partial middle beam feeds
one end to each of the preselected spaced positions of
the front guide bar, thus rendering it also fully threaded.
Surface effect patterns formed in the knitted fabric~
result when the ratio (R) of middle-beam to top-beam
runner lengths ls less than about l.00. m e intenslty
Or the patterns also increases when, relative to the -
top-beam yarns, the mlddle-beam yarns retract more on
relaxatlon from knitting tenæions, shrink more during
finlshing, or are o~ quite dlfferent ef~ective diameter.
Example VII
Three fabrics are knitted, each having si2 Zones
with dlfferent frequencies of middle-beam threads in the
front guide bar as follows: -
Zone l every fourth thread
Zone 2 every fifth thread
Zone 3 every sixth thread
Zone 4 every seventh thread
Zone 5 every eighth thread
Zone 6 every ninth thread.
Fabric VII-A uses the Jersey stitch, Fig. lA; Fabric VII-B
the Delaware stitch, Fig. lH; and Fabric VII-C the Long-
Float Delaware stitch, Fig. lI. Knitting parameters are
shown in Table 2 and fabrlc characterlzations in Table 3.
Flgs. 5, 6, and 7 are enlarged photographs o~ the three
'F~
.': ' ,
10~;4Z77
Zone 4 portions of Fabrics VII-A, VII-B, and VII-C, respec-
tlvely. In Fabrics VII-A and VII-B, each middle-beam end
i8 knitted into three adjac-nt wales, thus creating a
distineuishable 3-wale grouping. In Fabric VII-C, each
mlddle beam end i6 knltted into four ad~acent wales, thus
creating a distingulshable 4-wale grouping.
All of the waleR of the Zones of Fabrlc VII-A
have loops that are distorted in zig-zag ~ashion along each
wale line (Fig. 5). The wales in each three-wale grouping
are characterized as follows:
(1) they tend to be slightly closer together than
wales not included in three-wale groupings;
(2) the outside two wales in each three-wale grouping
have relatively normal loops in that they zig-zag
very little along wale lines;
(3) the center wale of each three-wale grouping is
substantially identical to wales outside the
grouplng, and
(4) wales occurring between three-wale groupings are
identical, uniformly spaced from one another, and
have sharply zig-zagged loops along each wale
line.
m e distorted stitches clearly differentiate this fabric
from prior art Jersey fabrics, but the longitudinally
striped effect of the three-wale groupings is rather subdued.
The two ~elaware stitch fabrics (VII-B and VII-C)
undergo wale ~hifting more readily with the result that
sharply defined striped effect~ are produced by uniform
wale groupings. In each case the lndlvidual wales closely
resemble each other and are compo~ed of tightened knit loops.
- 23 -
~064Z77
In Zones 1, 3, and 5, Fabrlc VII-B, the three-
wale groupings alternate with one, three, and five wales,
respectively, uniformly spaced from each other but set
off from each three-wale grouping by an extra-wide inter-
wale spacing. Each three-wale grouping is additionally
split into two-wale and one-wale groupings by a sllght
widening of one interwale spacing.
In Zones 2, 4, and 6 of Fabric VII-B a guite
different effect obtains. The wales in each three-wale
grouping shift closer together and are evenly spaced.
Also, the even number of extra wales between ad~acent
three-wale groupings shift to form the appropriate number
of closely spaced 2-wale groupings. Thus, Zone 2 has 3x2
wale groupings, Zone 4 (see Fig. 6) has 3x2x2 wale group-
ings, and Zone 6 has 3x2x2x2 wale groupings. The inter-
wale spacings between ad~acent groupings are all wide;
i.e., at least as wide as the loop chains defining each
wale.
Similar effects are obtained for Fabric VII-C.
Zone 1 has only tightly spaced four-wale groupings
separated by extra-~ide interwale spacings (about two
wale-widths wide). Zone 4 (see Fig. 7), with three extra
wales between four-wale groupings, has alternating wale-
shifted four-wale and three-wale groupings all separated
by extra-wide interwale spacings. In Zones 2, 3, 5, and
6 where the number of extra wales between four-wale
groupings is not evenly divisible by three, different
wale-shifting occurs. The four-wale groupings of Zones
2 and 5 split into two two-wale groupings with the result
3 th~t 2x2xl separate groupings form in Zone 2 and 2x2xlx2xl ~ -
- 24 _
10~;4Z7-7
separate grouplngs rorm in Zone 5. The ~our-wale grouplng~
of Zones 3 and 6 split into one- and three-wale grouplngs
with the result that lx3x2 wale groupings form in Zone 3
and lx3x2xlx2 wale groupings form in Zone 6.
It is apparent that, by varying the frequency
with which middle-beam ends are fed to the front guide
bar, a great var~ety of wale-shifted patterning effects
can be obtained.
ExamPle VIII
Six fabrics are prepared substantially aæ
described in Exa:nple VII. All use front guide bars with
every seventh position threaded by middle-beam yarn and
the remaining positions threaded with top-be~ yarn.
With reference to Table 2, Fabrics VIII-A, -C, and -E are
all knit using Yarn B in the top and back beams and
textured Yarn C in the middle beam. Fabrics VIII-B, -D,
and -F use the same top and back beams, but the mlddle
beam feeds untextured Yarn A. With each of these two
setups, again with reference to Table 2, a fabric is
knitted using the Delaware stltch (Fabrics VIII-A and
VIII-B), another 1B knitted using one modlfied Delaware
stltch (Fabrics VIII-C and VIII-D), and a thlrd 15 knitted
using a dlrferently modifled Delaware stitch.
The wale-shifted patterns obtained for Fabrics
~III-A and VIII-B are exactly as descrlbed in Example I
for Zone 4 Or Fabrlc VII-B (see Fig. 6).
In Fabrics VIII-C and VIII-D, the wales ~f each
seven-wale repeat are wale-shirted lnto 3xlx3 wale group-
ing~. The interwale ~pacing between ad~acent three-wale
grouplngs 18 very wide (about as wlde as each three-
- 25 ~
'' ~ ' ' '
: . ;:.. . :
1064Z77
wale grouplng). The interwale spacings on elther slde of
each one-wale grouping are unequal in width, smaller than
the others, but ~trlkingly distlnct. Each wale is bowed,
all in unison, to one side of the wale line with an
elght-course repeat, glvlng the groupings a scalloped
appearance which ls very apparent ln Fabrlc VIII-C but
less 80 in Fabrlc VIII-D. Fabrics VIII-E and VIII-F have
the 3x2x2 wale grouplngs of Fabrlcs VIII-A and VIII-B, the
wales belng more tightly shifted together wlthin the
grouplngs of Fabrlc VIII-F. These fabrics also exhlbit
a sllght scalloplng of the wales as seen in Fabrlcs VIII-C
and VIII-D.
~ .
~6 -
10~;4'~77
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~0f~4277
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- 28 -
10~i4277
In Examples IX, X, XI, and XII, a commorclal
32-gauge two-bar slngle needle bed warp knltting machine
ls employed. The top beam and the back beam are provlded
with the same kind of knitting yarn, each fully threading
the respective guide bars. A third partial beam is
employed, feeding the same or different knlttlng yarns
as shown in Tables 4, 6, and 8. Each end from the mlddle
(partial) beam is doubled with an end from the top beam,
the two being led through the same guide in the front
guide bar and knltted together as a single end. Doubled
ends in the front guide bar are at spaced needle posi-
tions. In most of the examples, only every seventh end
is doubled, the pattern being repeated across the full
fabric width. In those fabrics whose numbers are marked
with the symbol (#), the fabric has six zones across its
width with each zone having a dlfferent spacing of
doubled ends according to:
Zone 1 every fourth end doubled
Zone 2 every fifth end doubled
Zone 3 every sixth end doubled ;~` `
Zone 4 every seventh end doubled
Zone 5 every eighth end doubled
Zone 6 every ninth end doubled.
The use of spaced doubled ends causes the
creation of longitudinal patterning by uniform grouping
of wales, the degree of patte m ing depending largely on
the ratio (R) of middle bar to top bar runner lengths,
l.e., differences in tension on the doubled ends. The
lower this ratio, the greater the patterning effect. In
addition, differences in retraction, shrinkage on
- 29 -
1064Z7~7
rlnlshing, and ~lzes Or the doubled end~ influence the
degree of patterning. Tables of re~ults in the e~amplee
list the fabrics prepared in descending order of the
magnltudes Or R.
Every ~abrlc exempllfled exhlblts longltudinal
strlped patte m lng on lts rloat side, these patterns
being rather dirfuse and generally devold o~ clearcut
interwale spacings. In the examples, patte m lng as
vlewed from the loop sldes o~ the fabrlcs 18 dlscus~ed
and compared.
Exam~le IX
Thls example aompares fabrlcs made using the
Delaware stltch whlch haB a 2-3,1-0 repeated rront bar
stltch and a back bar chaln stltch (mostly l-0,0-l open
chaln, but also 0-l,l-0 open chain and 0-l,0-l closed
chain as lndicated ln Tables l and 2). Patte m ing ef~ects
appear to be lndependent of whlch chain 6tltch 18 used in
the back bar. Data relevant to knlttlng of the ~abrlcs
are given ln Table 4; fabrlc characterizatlons are ln
Table 5.
Llttle or no patternlng 18 evldent on the loop
face of Fabrlc IX-A except for enlargement and dls-
tortlon Or every seventh wale. Fabrlc IX-B shows
llttle or no shlfting of wale spaclngs but nevertheless
has a muted longltudinally strlped e~fect in which three-
wale groupings wlth relatlvely opaque interwale spacings
are separated by ~our normally knlt and spaced wales
each bounded by relatively open interwale spacings. In
these and all the remaining fabrlcs of this example, the
three-wale grouplngs correspond to the 3-needle rloats
-- 30 --
10~i4Z77
of each doubled front-bar end.
Fabrlc IX-C lntroduce~ a new patte m lng effect
in that, in addltlon to the readlly dlstinguishable three-
wale groupings, the four intervening wales undergo wale
shifting to form two two-wale groupings of close wales,
each two-wale grouping separated from the ad~acent two-
wale and three-wale groupings by extra-wlde more open
interwale spacings.
Fabric IX-D, using the same yarns as Fabric
IX-A, is very simllar in appearance to Fabrlc IX-A. The
lack of clear patterning for thls fabric is unexplalned.
Fabrics IX-E through IX-M (comparing only
Zone 4 of Fabrlc IX-F) have the same 3x2x2 wale-shifted
pattern as descrlbed for Fabrlc IX-C. As R decreases,
the wales in each grouping move closer together,
the interwale spacings between groupings become wider and ~-
and relatlvely more open, and the patterns become
sharper and more striking. Fig. 8 is an enlarged photo-
graph of the Fabric IX-F (Zone 4) typifying the pattern-
lng described.
Fabrlc IX-F lllustrates the patterning changes
accompanying different frequencieæ of doubled ends. Zone
1 haa three-wale groupings alternating with single wales
set off by widened interwale spacings. In Zone 2, the
two wales between the three-wale groupings are shifted
close together with extra-wide interwale spacings bstween
three- and two-wale groupings. Zone 3 has three normally
spaced wales between the three-wale groupings. Zone 4
(discussed above) has four wales between three-wale group-
ings which aro wale-~hiftod to form two two-wale grouplng~.
- 31 -
,
,, . :
1064Z77
Zone 5 hae rlve norm~lly spaced wales bstween three-wale
grouplngs. Zone 6 has three wale-shirted two-wale group-
lngs between three-wale grouplngs. It 18 apparent that,
when an even number Or wales devold Or doubled ends are
lert between the three-wale grouplngs including doubled
ends, the intervening wales shift to provide regular two-
wale grouplngs which are stable and unlronm throughout
the rabric length.
- 32 -
:, - . . .
. .
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10~4Z77
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10f~4277
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- 34 _
. .
. - - ~ -.. : ". .
~0~4277
EXample X
Tables 6 and 7 characterize ~abrlcs prepared
as described in Example X except for use of the Long-
Float Delaware knitting stitch. This stitch u6es a
3-4,1-0 knitting pattern for the front bar and a chain
stitch for the back bar. Because each doubled end be-
comes knitted into four wales, four-wale groupings ana-
logous to the three-wale groupings of Example X are
formed when R is sufficiently low. Zone 4 of Fabrlc
X-A and the whole widths of the remaining fabrlcs of
this example have doubled ends at every seventh positlon
of the front guide bar. Fig. 9 is typical of the wale
shifted patterned effects of these fabrics (Zone 4 of
Fabric X-A). The tlghtness wlth which wales are shifted
together within the groupings, and the width of interwale
spacings between groupings~ increase with decreasing R.
All of these fabrics exhiblt tight four-wale groupings
including the doubled ends alte mating with tight three-
wale groupings devoid of doubled ends.
Fabric X-A illustrates the effect of varying
the frequency of doubled ends. Zone l has repetitive
four-wale groupings across its width with extra-wide
interwale spacings between the groupings. Zone 2 has
four-wale groupings alternating with spaced single wales.
In Zone 3, four-wale groupings alte m ate with tight two-
wale groupings. Zone 4, as above described, has 4x3 wale
groupings. Zone 5, unexpectedly, has 4xlx2xl groupings,
and Zone 6 has 4x2xlx2 groupings. While not included in
the examples, when every tenth end is crossed the groupings
in repetitive sequence are 4x3x3 indicating the natural
- 35 -
,
.:. -- .. -
: ,
~0~;4277
tendency for Long-Float Delsware stltch to torm only
three-wale groupings between four-wale grouping~ when
the number of wales avallable i8 divislble by three. It
is of further interest that the four-wale grouplngs of
Zones 2 and 5 are sllghtly separated into two two-wale
groupings.
- 36 -
:~
10~i4Z77
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- 37 -
10~4Z77
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~0~;4Z77
Example XI
Tables 7 and 8 characterize fabrlcs prepared as
described in Examples IX and X except for the use of
the Jersey knitting stitch. This stitch uses a 2-3,1-0
knitting pattern for the front bar and a 1-0,1-2 pattern
for the back bar. Because each doubled end becomes knltted
into three wales, three-wale groupings analogous to the
three-wale groupings of Example VIII are formed when R
is sufficiently low. Zone 4 of Fabric X-H and the whole
~idths of the remaining fabrics of this example have
doubled ends at every seventh position of the front guide
bar. Fig. 10 (Fabric XI-I) shows the type of patterning
obtainable using Jersey stitch. The tightness with which
wales are shifted together in the three-wale groupings
and the extent of zig-zag distortion of remaining wales
increase with decreasing R.
m e loop faces of Fabrics XI-A and XI-B are
barely distinguishable irom Jersey knits made without
any doubled ends. No clearcut three-wale groupings occur.
Regular three-wale groupings are distingui~hable in Fabrlc
XI-E, but without noticeable wale shlfting. Fabric XI-F i8 : :
al~o very simllar, its three-wale groupings being more
clearly distinguished.
Fabric XI-D represents an intermediate type
patterning in which a single wale of each three-wale
grouping is set Ofr irom remaining wales by extra-wide
interwale spaclngs and the six wales between nearest set-
off wales are substantially no~mally knlt and spaced.
Fabrics XI-G through XI-J all exhiblt the same
patterning, its inten~ity increasing with decreasing R.
~ 39 -
,: '- j - '. '` :
-
' ' ~ .
.
:'
1064Z77
Flrst, the stltches in each wale are dlstorted ln zig-
zag fashion walewise. Second, the wales ln each three-
wale grouping shift closer together. Finally, the
tighter the three-wale groupings associate, the less do
their stitches appear distorted. Simultaneously, the
four evenly spaced wales between consecutive three-wale
groupings become more dlstorted. Preferred patterns
result when R is less than or about 1.00.
Fabric XI-H illustrates the e~fect of varylng
the frequency of doubled ends. No extra wale shlfting
between three-wale groupings occurs, nor is any change in
zig-zag distortion of the stitches observed due only to
the changes in frequency. Instead, the number of evenly
spaced wales between three-wale groupings increases
regularly from Zone 1 to Zone 6.
- 40 -
10~4277
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- 41 -
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10~4'~77
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- 42 -
,,
10~42'7'7
Example XII
This exampie illustrates that the partially
doubled ended warp knitting process is also capable of
creating longitudinal wale-grouped patterns when more
complicated knitting stitches are employed. Except r~
the different stitch employed, this example dupllcates
the knltting arrangement of the previous examples, IX,
V, and XI, every seventh end being doubled at the front
bar. m e front bar stitch is 1-0,1-0, 2-3,1-0 and the
back bar stitch is the 1-0,0-1 open chain. Yarn A is
used throughout, and R = o.88.
Top runner length = 53.5 in (1. 359 m)
Middle runner length = 47 in (1.194 m)
Back runner length = 30.25 in (o.768 m)
Quality = 6 in (15.2 cm)
Greige weight = 2.0 oz/yd2 (o.67g gm/100 cm2)
Greige bulk = 6.53 cc/gm
Finished weight = 2.3 oz/yd2 (00781 gm/100 cm2)
Finished width = 78.5 in (10994 m) ~`
Finished count = 34x88 in~l (13.4x34.6 cm~l)
Finished bulk = 5. 71 cc/gm
The muted but clear pattern obtained consists of close
three-wale groupings alternating with groups of four
uniformly spaced wales.
Example XIII
m is example illustrate~ patterning effects
obtalned when yarns fram a part~al mlddle beam are threaded
through spaced positions of both front and back fully
threaded guide bars for knitting together with the nor-
mally threaded ya m 8 already in the~e spaced posltions.
~ 43 -
, . . . .
-
,
10~4Z77
Two ~abrlcs (Fabrlc XIII-A and Fabric XIII-B) were prepared
uslng the ~ersey stitch (Fig. lA). The front (or top) and
back beamR were fully threaded with 10-filament 30-denier
(33.3 dtex) polyhexamethylene adlpamide yarn~, and the
mlddle beam was partlal with monofilament gear-cr~mped 30-
denier (33.3 dtex) polyhexamethylene adlpamide yarn (1 in,
6 out). The monofilament yarn was crimped as taught in
U.S. Patent No. 3,833,976 using gears descrlbed in connectlon
wlth Flg~. 6, 7, and 8 thereo~. Both fabrics were knlt at
ldentlcal machine settings, l.e.:
Front bar runner , 55 in (1.397 m)
Middle bar runner = 43.5 in (1.105 m)
Back bar runner = 42 in (1.067 m)
Quallty = 7 in (2.76 cm)
The threading for Fabric XIII-A was repeated acros~
the whole fabric width in units of 14 adJacent needle posl-
tlons. In each position 1 a middle-beam end was doubled
with a front-beam end at the front guide bar and knitted
together with it; and at each posltion 8 a middle-beam end
was doubled with a back-beam end at the back-guide bar and
knitted together with it. Threading for Fabric XIII-B was the
~ame except that both middle-beam ends per 14-position
repeat were threaded together with normally threaded yarns
only at position 1, one in the front and the other in the
back guide bar.
Both grelge fabrics were about 63 in (1.60 m) wide
at a weight of about 2.5 oz/yd2 (.85 gm/100 cm2). The count
(WxC) for XIII-A was 41 x 64 per in (16.1 x 25.2 per cm), and
for XIII-B was 42 x 64 per in (16.5 x 25.2 per cm). For Fabrlc
XIII-A the finished properties were: 2.7 oz/yd2 (0.92 g~100
- 44 -
1064Z77
cm2) welght and 50 x 61 per ln (19.7 x 24.0 per cm) count.
For Fabrlc XIII-~ the finished propertles were: 2.~ oz/yd2
(0.95 gm/100 cm2) weight and 48 x 62 per ln (18.9 x 24.4
per cm) count.
Patterning effects descrlbed below were as ob-
served on 15~ photographic magnifications of the loop face
of each fabric. To the unaided eye, however, the patterning
was readily apparent as longitudlnal continuous stripes, one
for each position modified by inclusion of a middle-beam end.
Moreover, each stripe could be sensed by rubblng a finger
over the surface.
Corresponding to each posltlon 1 o~ Fabric XIII-A was
a strlpe composed of a raised central wale of larger than
normal loops set off on either side by slightly wider than
normal interwale spacings. At each position 8, two adjacent
wales had distorted stitches, a wlder than normal interwale
spaclng, and were rotated about each wale axis such that a
single protruding ridge developed.
Corresponding to each position l of fabric XIII-B
was a strlpe of three ad~acent wales very tightly ~oined
side-by-slde and each with larger than normal stitches. The --
three-wale strlpe also protruded from the fabric surface and
occupled only about 80% as much fabric width as was occupied
by three adjacent wales in una~fected fabric area.
Example XIV
Nine additlonal ~abrics are prepared as in
E~amples VII and YIII to lllustrate wale-shifted surface
patterning e~fects for R greater than unity, and to compare
with ~abrics knitted at R less than unity. Yarn A is
used in all three beams. The back guide bar is fully
- 45 -
r.
.... . .
' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '. ': '
.: , . .
''''''' ' ' ' ' ' ' :' .
. 10~4277
threaded from the bottom beam, and the front gulde bar
is fully threaded from the top and mlddle beams. In the
front guide bar, every seventh end comes from the middle
beam, and the intervening groups of slx end~ come from
the top beam. Fabrlcs X n-A, -B, and -C use the Jersey
stltch, Flg. lA; Fabrics XIV-D, -E, and -F use the
Delaware stltch, Flg. lH; and Fabrlcs XIV-G, -H, and -I
use the Long Float Delaware ~titch, Flg. lI.
Conslderlng the Jersey fabrlcs ~ir~t, Fabric
XIV-C (R = 0.82) has a pattern, repeated across its whole
width, in which groups of three ad~acent wales are shlfted
close together and the groups are separated by four nor-
mally knit and spaced wales. Fabrics XIV-A (R - 1.29)
and XIV-B (R = 1.45) are almost identical ln patterning
but completely different from Fabric XIV-C. In each the
patterning of consecutive wales is as follows: Two wales
of alternating large and small loops flank a normally
knlt wale and are wale-shifted away from lt to provlde
wldened relatively open spaces. Thls 3-wale pattern i6
repeated in every group of seven waleæ across the width
of the fabrlc. The intervenlng groups of four wales each
also wale-shift slightly such that the two outslde wales
in each group of four are very close to the 3-wale pattern~
and sllghtly spaced apart from the two remalning central
wales. m ese fabrics exhibit a pleasing surface pattern-
ing not heretofore obtainable in baslc Jersey warp knit-
tlng.
Delaware ~titch Fabrlc XIV-D (R = 0.79) is sub-
~tantially identical in appearance to the one shown in
Flg. 6; l.e., lt has repeatlng 3x2x2 wale-shifted groupings
- 46 -
1064277
~oparated by relatlvely open inter~ale ~paclng~. Fabrlc-
XIV-E (R - 1.23) and XIV-F (R . 1.29) aro indistingulshable
rrom one another but dlrrer rrom Fabrlc X~V-D ln that
2xlx2x2 repetltl~e patterns Or wale-shl~ted groupinge
occur acrose thelr widths.
Long Float Delsware stltch Fabrlc X n-G (R . 0.75)
is substantially identical ln appearance to the one sho~n
in Flg. 7; l.e., lt has repeating 4x3 ~ale-ehlrted group-
ings eeparated by rolatlvely open inter~ale epa¢ing~.
Fabrics XIV-~ (R ~ 1.07) and XN-I (R - 1.21) are very
eimilar to each other in patternlng but ~triklngly dl**er-
ent rrom Fabrlc XIV-G. The relatl~ely open inter~ale
epacings formed by wale-shlrting are not each ae wlde ae
in Fabrl^ XIV-G, but are more numeroue. The repeated
pattern of grouplngs in each case 1B 2~1S1~2X1. Fabric
XIV-I 18 coneiderably more dlstlnctly p tte m ed than 1B
Fabrlc XIV-H.
It 18 ~hown rOr thl~ mi~ed-reeding technlgue
that:
l. llmlted overreeding Or the minor partlal beam
produces ezcellent wale-~hlrted pattern~ng;
2. patterns ~ormed wlth R greater than unlty dirfer
from those ronmed wlth R less than unlty; and
3. as R approaches unlty wlth identlcal reed ya ms,
patte ming becomes less dlstinct.
- 47 -
, . . . . .
' ,
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~064Z77
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1064Z7'7
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