Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
1139z~7
BACKGRO[~ND AND SU~MARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates generally to a method of
making pockets, and more particularly to a method of making
pockets in any garment requiring pockets.
In the manufacture of garments, pockets are provided
chiefly as a convenient means for carr~iny useful articles. Such
useful items may include, for example, currency, change, keys,
a wallet, a handkerchief and so forth. The pockets are integrated
into the garment and take the yeneral form of a pouch open at one
1~ end to perrnit easy access to the contents.
'.~o basic types of pocket construction are used. In
the patch-type pocket, a layer or patch of material is attached
directly to the outside surface of the garment. The patch pocket
is usually sewn only at the side and bottom edges so that articles
can be received between the garment and pocket layers through the
unsecured upper end. Patch pockets are thus easily constructed
and attached to the garment, and are utilized most popularly in
garments having less formal or leisure applications. In contrast
to the patch-type pocket, the standard pocket is positioned on
2U the inside of the garment. A slot in the garment permits access
to the standard pocket. Consequently a standard pocket occupies
a hidden, protected location in the garment, which therefore
presents a rnuch neater, finished appearance. However,
construction of the standard pocket requires numerous manual
operations including material cutting, positioning, sewing and
trimming. These manual operations are time consuming and
therefore expensive in terms of both labor and material
expenditure.
_ 3- _
~3C32'~7
In accordance with one aspect of the invention
there is provided in a pocket construction method of the
type wherein a generally rectangular pocket blank is
connected to a garment panel adjacent to a pocket opening
formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel, said
pocket blank being transversely folded to form inner and
outer pocket panels and being secured along the
longitudinal edges of the pocket panels to seal the
pocket, the improvement comprising the steps of: folding a
portion of the garment panel defining said pocket opening
backwardly over a portion of the inner pocket panel; and
adhesively securing the inner pocket panel of the pocket
blank to the garment panel.
In accordance with another aspect of the invention
there is provided a pocket construction, comprising: a
garment panel; said garment panel having a pocket opening
formed by removal of a corner of the garment panel; a
length of material defining a pocket blank; said pocket
blank being positioned adjacent to the pocket opening in
said garment panel and being folded transversely into
inner and outer pocket panels interconnected at the lower
ends by a fold; means located along a portion of the
pocket opening for adhesively interconnecting the inner
pocket panel and said garment panel; and means for
securing the top ends and longitudinal edges of the pocket
panels to co~plete construction of the pocket.
Z~7
The present inven~ion comprises a method of constructing
pockets in yarments which overcomes the foregoing and other
problems lony since associated with the prior art. In accordance
with the broader aspects of the invention, a length of pocket
material is folded to provide two pocket panels interconnected by
a fold with the obverse sides thereof facing inwardly.
Preferably, ~ortions of both longitudinal edges of the folded
pocket are aahesively secured in one embodiment of the invention
before securing the inner pocket panel to the inside surface of
the garment. A pocket slot is then formed in the garment and
selected components of the pocket are then assembled before
adhesively securing the remaining peripheries of the pocket
panels. In another embodiment, a pocket blank is positioned
beneath a pocket opening formed in the garment panel before the
edye thereof is folded back and adhesively secured to the pocket
blank. By these rnethods, garment pockets are constructed from
the interior o~ the garment with a minimurn number of manual
operations.
In accordance with more specific aspects of the
2~ invention, a length of material defining a pocket blank is first
provided. Preferably, three areas of fusible adheshive material
are located on the same side of the pocket blank; along portions
of both longitudinal edyes, and transversely in a strip near one
end thereof. The pocket blank is first folded along the
longitudinal edges, and later transversely so that each folded
edye portion having fusible adhesive material thereon is adjacent
th~ remaining portion of the same folded edge.
92r1~
Alternatively, th~ areas of fusible adhesive material
can be provided on opposite sides of the pocket blank; along
portions of both longitudinal ed~es on the obverse side, and
transversely in a strip near one end of the reverse side. Such
S a pocket blank is simply folded transversely in order to overlap
each adhesive edge portion.
In accordance with the preferred conscruction, the
fusible adhesive material in the vicinity of the fold
interconnectiny the inner and outer pocket blank panels is then
activated to adhesively secure the bottom section of the pocket.
Preferably, activation of the fusible adhesive material is
accomplished by engaging the pocket blank with a heated press,
ultrasonic means, or a radiant source capable of convertiny the
adhesive frorn solid to plastic state.
After the pocket blank panels have been folded and
adhesively secured in part, the inner pocket panel is adhesively
secured to the inside surface of the garment by activating the
transverse strip of fusible adhesive material. A slit, from which
the pocket opening is constructed, is then formed through the
2~ adhesive connection between the garment and inner pocket panel.
Depending upon the particular type of pocket desired, any of
several welt, flap and facing strip combinations can be adhesively
secured across or within the pocket opening. Stitched ~ar tacks
are tnen provided at each end of the pocket opening to
mechanically interconnect the garment, inner pocket panel and
selected pocket comporlents. At this juncture, the internal
asser~l~ly oE the pocket can be inspected before closing and
adhesively securing the remainillg section of the outer pocket
panel to the inner pocket panel to complete the pocket
construction.
-- 5 --
1~3~ 7
Accordiny to anoth~r embodiment of the invention,
a ~ocket blank is positioned on the inside surface of a
garment panel beneath a pocket opening formed therein. The
pocket blank is substantially similar to that employed in
the f irst inventive embodiment, except that one end thereof
is trisnmed to correspond with the lower edge of the particular
pocket opening. The lower edge of the opening is then
folded back and adhesively secured to the pocket blank. If
desired, a sti~ch can be added along the edge of the pocket
opening to reinforce interconnection of the pocket blank and
garment panel.
A facing strip is then positioned to cover the pocket
openiny when the pocket blank is later folded transversely to form
inner and outer pocket panels. Preferably, the facing strip
lS is attached to the lower end of the pocket blank so that the
strip is properly positioned upon folding of the pocket blank.
Constructioll of the pocket is completed by adhesively securing
the remaininy periphery of the folded pocket blank. Stitched
bar tacks can be provided at the ends of the pocket openiny
to mechanically interconnect the garment and pocket, if
desired.
11~9~
DESCRIPTION OF THE ~RAWINGS
A more complete understanding of the invention may be
had by reference to the following Detailed Description when taken
in conjunction with the accompanying Drawings, wherein:
FIGURE 1 is a block diagram illustrating a method of
constructing pockets for garments incorporating the invention;
FIGURE 2 is an illustration of a lenyth of pocket
material useful in forming a pocket blank;
FIGURE 3 is an illustration of the pocket blank shown in
FIGUR~' 2 after foldiny;
FIGURE 4 is an illustration of the folded pocket blank
positioned on the inside of a garment panel;
FIGURES 5, 6, and 7 are illustrations of successive
steps in a method of constructing pockets in accordance with
the inventiorl;
FIGURE 8 is an illustration of the inside surface of a
~arMent having a pocket formed in accordance with the invention;
FIGURE 9 is an illustration of the outside surface of a
garment having a pocket formed in accordance with the invention;
2~ FIGURE 10 is an illustration of an alternative to the
pocket blank shown in FIGURE 2;
FIGURE 11 is a sectional view taken yenerally along
lines 11-11 in FIGURE 9;
FIGURE 12 is an illustration of the outside surface of
a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with a first
modification of the invention;
1~92'-~7
FIGURE 13 is a pa~ti~l sectional view taken generally
along lines 13-13 in FIGURE 12;
FIGURE 14 is an illustration of the outside surface of
a garment having a pocket formed in accordance with a second
modification of the invention;
FIGURE 15 is a partial sectional view taken generally
along lines 15-15 in FIGURE 14;
FIGURE, 16 is an illustration of the outside surface of
a ~arment haviny a pocket formed in accordance with a third
modification of the invention;
FIGURE 17 is a partial sectional view taken generally
along lines 17-17 in FIGURE 16;
FIGURES 18 and 19 are illustrations of a pocket
blank useful in a method of constructing pockets according
to a second embodiment of the invention;
FIGURE 20 is an illustration of an alternative
to the pocket blank shown in FIGURES 18 and 19;
FIGURES 21-24 are illustrations of steps in the pocket
construction method according to the second embodiment of the
2~ invention;
FIGURES 25 and 26 are sectional views taken along
lines 25-25 and 26-26 of FIGURE 23 in the direction of the arrows;
FIGURE 27 is a sectional view similar to E`IGURE 26;
E'IGURE 28 is an illustration of the outside
surface of a garment after completion of the pocket; and
EIGUXES 29-33 are illustrations showing modifications
of the second embodiment of the invention.
- 8 -
~392~.~7
D~TAIL~D DE~CRIPTION OF THE INV~NTION
~eferring now to the Drawings, and particularly to
FIGURE 1 thereof, there is illustrated a method of constructing
pockets incorporatiny the invention. The method includes the
S utilization of fusible adhesive materials to eliminate many
heretofore required time consuming and costly manual operations
in pocket construction. The method of the invention can be used
in the manufacture of any garment utilizing pockets. ~se of the
netilod results in a strong, durable pocket construction of
1~ pleasing appearance.
Xeferring particularly to FIGURE 2, there is shown a
pocket blank 10 useful in the practice of the invention. Pocket
blank 10 is de~icted in a flat, unfolded initial condition with
the reverse side up. Pocket blank 10 is formed from a length
of pocket material 12 having sufficient overall dimensions to
allow construction of a pocket having predetermined depth and
width. Material 12 can comyrise any natural or synthetic cloth
material suitable for use in pocket construction. It will be
understood that the exact composition of pocket material 12 is
2U not critical to the practice of the invention.
In particular, pocket blank 10 comprises a rectangular
piece of pocket material 12 haviny adhesive areas 14 located
adjacent part of both lonyitudinal edges of the reverse side
thereof. Adhesive areas 14 can be formed by attaching a thin
layer of fusible adhesive rnaterial to the selected locations.
The fusible material is prefera~ly thermally responsive and
may comprise ribbons or strips of extruded polyamide, nylon or
polyester materials of the type manufactured by General Fabric
Fusiny Company of Cincinnati, Ohio. If desired, the fusible
3277
adhesive could be extruded directly onto pocket material 12.
Adhesive areas 14 are of predetermined width and length, extending
fronl upper end 16 to fold line 18 on material 12. Preferably,
pocket blank lO also includes a transverse adhesive area 20
S positioned in spaced, parallel relationship near end 16 and across
the reverse side of pocket blank 10. It will thus be apparent
that adhesive areas 14 and 20 are formed by applying strips of
fusible adhesive Inaterial to the same side of pocket material 12.
Two successive folding steps are then undertaken. The
lonyitudinal edges of pocket blank 10 are first folded inwardly
in the directions of arrows 22 in FIGURE 2. After this folding
step, adhesive areas 14 face the same direction as the obverse
side, while adhesive area 20 remains oriented in the reverse
direction. Thus, the edge portions of pocket blank 10 face in
a direction opposite the original direction. After the folding
of both lonyitudinal edges, pocket blank 10 is folded transversely
alony fold line 18. As is best shown in FIG~RE 3, pocket blank 10
now comprises inner panel 24 and outer panel 26 interconnected at
one end by fold 28. It will thus be apparent that after the
lonyitudinal and transverse folding operations, adhesive areas 14
extend continuously between end 16 and fold 2~ within the
adjacent, folded longitudinal edges of panels 24 and 26.
~loreover, all raw edges are turned inwardly and are therefore
concealed.
With the pocket blank 10 folded as shown in FIGURE 3,
activation of the fusible adhesive material between the adjacent
longitudinal edyes of panels 24 and 26 next occurs. Activation
of the adhesive material is preferably accomplished by engaging
-- 10 --
1~L35~Z77
heated means (not shown) with outer panel 26 of pocket blank 10.
The means for activating the adhesive may comprise; for example,
a heated press, ultrasonic or microwave means, or a radiant
source capable of converting the adhesive from a solid to a
plastic state. The temperature generated by and duration of
enyayelnent of the activatiny means are sufficient to melt the
desired portions of adhesive areas 14, whereby the edges of
pocket ~lank 10 are permeated with melted adhesive to become
bonded together. It will be appreciated that use of a heated
lU press for activatiny the fusible adhesive material to secure the
edges of panels 24 and 26 would simultaneously function to press
any wrinkles or folds in the edge portions. Furthermore, it will
be understood that this means of adhesive connection is strong and
durable as well as resistant to garment cleaning processes.
Preferably, only a portion of each adhesive area 14 in the
vicinity of folà 2~ is initially activated. Thus, only the lower
edye sections of folded pocket blank 10 are adhesively secured
at first. This allows the upper section of outer panel 26 to
be laid back exposing part of the pocket interior.
Referring momentarily to FI~URE 10, there is shown an
alternate pocket blank lOa which could be substituted for pocket
blank 10. Pocket blank lOa differs from pocket blank 10 primarily
by virtue of the fact that adhesive areas 14 and 20 are located
on opposite sides of the length of material 12, rather than on
the same side. This eliminates the step of inwardly folding the
longitudinal edges prior to the transverse folding operation.
~ith pocket blank lOa, it is necessary only that materiaI 12 be
transversely folded alon-3 fold line 18 so that adheive areas 14
1~39~:~77
are inside the resultant panels 24 and 26. It will be appreciated
that a relatively narrower length of material 12 can be formed
into pocket blank lOa, which results in material savings and
therefore cost savinys. Pocket blank lOa rniyht be used, for
example, in an inexpensive garment since the exposed edges result
in a less finished appearance. Raveling of the edges is
prevented, however, by adhesive permeation of rnaterial 12 in areas
14 after activation.
~hile it is preferable that the steps of transversely
folding the pocket blank 10 and then adhesively securing the lower
edge sections thereof be carried out at this staye of the
invention, it will be understood that these steps can occur later
wlthout departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.
For instance, these steps could take place after the pocket blank
10 is attached to the garment, or after other subsequent steps.
With a section of upper panel 26 laid back as shown in
FIGURE 4, the folded pocket blank 10 is then positioned on the
inside surface of a yarment 30 wherein the pocket is desired. ~he
material of yarment 30 can comprise any natural or synthetic
Z0 cloth, the exact composition of which is not critical to the
practice of the invention. In particular, the reverse side of
panel 24 is placed downward with adhesive area 20 situated over
the area in which the pocket slot will be formed. It will be
recalled that the placement of adhesive area 20 on pocket blank
10 is preferred but not required in the practice of the invention.
Alternatively, in the absence of adhesive area 20 on pocket blank
lo, a corresponding adhesive area initially formed on garment 30
at the location of the pocket slot to be formed can be utilized,
1~9~
i
-
if desired. With the folded pocket blan~ 10 thus positioned, the
fusible material of adhesive area 20 is activated to adhesively
secure folded pocket blank 10 to garment 30.
Followiny the step of adhesively securing pocket blank
10 to garment 30, a transverse slit 32 is forMed throuyh garment
30, activated adhesive area 20 and inner panel 24. Slit 32 is
thus made through the adhesive connection between pocket blank
10 and garment 30 so that the edges formed thereby are not
unattached ~ut are bonded together. The preferred configuration
of slit 32 includes Y-shaped ends. This particular slit
configuration is most important because two sets of opposing
flaps, flap sets 34 and 36, are so formed.
I-laving made slit 32, the flap sets 34 and 36 are folded
inwardly against the obverse side of inner panel 24 of pocket
blank 10 as shown in FIG~RE 5. This exposes a rectangular opening
through garment 30 and one panel of pocket blank 10 which will
serve as pocket slot 38. Flap sets 34 and 36 must then be secured
in their folded back positions.
The flap sets 34 and 36 are secured down with adhesive
~0 strip 40. In accordance with one construction, strip 40 comprises
a rectangular piece of fusible adhesive including a cutout area
corresponding to pocket slot 38. Adhesive strip 40 is laid over
flap sets 34 and 36 in surrounding relationship with slot 3~.
It will be apparent that more than one separate adhesive strip
can ~e positioned over flap sets 34 and 36 adjacent slot 38, if
desired. It will be appreciated that adhesive strip 40, or
its e~uivalent, could be extruded directly over flap sets 34
and 36, if desired. Adhesive strip 40 preferably consists of
a ~iece of extruded adhesive material carried on one side of
- 13 -
1~3~277
a backing layer (not shown). By this means, adhesive strip 40
is laid with the adhesive side downward. The fusible adhesive
material of strip 40 can then be activated to secure flap sets
34 and 36 in place. ~ollowiny activation of adhesive strip 40,
the backing (not shown) can then be peeled away to expose the
top side of the adhesive strip. At this point it will thus be
apparent that adhesive areas surround pocket slot 38.
To achieve a pocket construction of the desired type
and finish, olle or rnore pocket welts, a pocket flap, a facing
1~ strip, or combinations thereof are next attached. The materials
of these pocket corlponents may comprise any natural or synthetic
cloth, the exact com~osition of which is not critical to the
practice of the invention. If desired, any of these pocket
components can comprise a material matching the garment 30.
Depending upon the style or fashion, a welt could also be formed
of a material contrasting with yarment 30.
If desired, a welt 44 is first laid over the lower edge
of pocket slot 38 and a portion of adhesive strip 40 as shown
in EIGURE 6. Welt 44 preferably comprises a relatively narrow
2~ piece of folded material with sufficient length to span panel 24
between adhesive areas 14. The folded edge of welt 44 is
positioned across slot 38 to provide a finished appearance to the
pocket opening. The fusible material comprising adhesive strip
4~ is then activated to secure welt 44 to panel 24.
If desired, a pocket facing strip can then be laid
over welt 44 and the relnaining portion of pocket slot 38 as shown
in FIGUR~ 7. Preferably, facing strip 46 is of sufficient width
:1139z~7
to cover welt 44 and pocket slot 38 without entirely covering
the portion of adhesive strip 40 between slot 38 and end 16.
Thus, the remaining exposed portion of adhesive strip 40 can be
subsequently used to adhesively secure the ends of pocket panels
S 24 and 26. It will be apparent that a wider faciny strip 46
covering the upyer section of adhesive strip 40 could be utilized.
l~ wider facing strip 46 would preferably include an adhesive area
(not shown) along the upper end or the outside surface thereof,
by which outer pocket panel 26 would be adhesively secured to
facing strip 46 which would be adhesively secured in turn to
inner pocket panel 24. As shown in FIGURE 7, facing strip 46
preferably includes adhesive area 48 along the lower end of the
outside surface thereof. Adhesive area 48 comprises a layer of
fusible adhesive material which will be utilized subsequently to
secure outer pocket panel 26 to strip 46.
It will be appreciated that the pocket construction
can include a facing strip 46 without welt 44. In the event a
facing strip 46 alone is desired, a strip of material (not shown)
should first be placed between the lower sections of facing strip
2~ 46 and adhesive strip 40 to act as a buffer. Such a buffer strip
(not shown) would be required to prevent facing strip 46 from
~ecoming adhesively secured in surrounding relationship with
pocket slot 38. Access to the interior of the pocket construction
would therefore be tnaintained.
After positioning of pocket welt 44 and/or pocket facing
strip ~6, stitched bar tacks SO are added at each end of pocket
slot 38. Tacks 50, only one of which is shown in FIGURE 7, serve
- 15 -
113~3~77
to mechanically interconnec garment 30, irlller pocket panel 24,
and the desired pocket components. Tacks 50 also help secure
flap set 34 in a folded inward configuration. Thus, tacks 50
function to reinforce the pocket construction, and further cerve
to lenà a handmade appearance to the outside of garment 30. As
sh~wn, tacks 5~ mechanically interconnect garment 30, panel 24,
welt 44, and facing strip 46.
Subsequent to the placernent of tacks 50, the interior
assembly of the pocket can be inspected before closing panel 26
and activating the remaining adhesive areas to seal the upper
section of the folded pocket blank 10. With panel 26 closed as
shown in FIGURE ~, activation of adhesive area 48, the remaining
portions of adhesive areas 14 and adhesive strip 40 completes the
pocket construction. A cross section of a finished, single welt
pocket constructed in accordance with the invention is shown in
EIGURE 11. The pocket shown in FIGURE 11 includes optional stitch
45.
Turning now to FIGURES 12 and 13, the step of attaching
a second pocket welt 52 as shown can be included in the invention.
In particular, second welt 52 is laid over adhesive strip 40 so
as to extend across the upper edge of pockét slot 3~. This step
can be carried out eithèr before or after the placement of first
welt 44, but prior to the placement of facing strip 46. The
fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is then activated
to secure second welt 52 across pocket slot 3~ to panel 24. If
desired, pocket facing strip 46 can then be laid over welts 44
and 52, and the remaining portion of pocket slot 38. Depending
- 16 -
11~92~7
u~on the width of second welt 52, it may be necessary to first
position adhesive strip 54 between welt 52 and faciny strip 46
to provide for later sealiny of the upper pocket construction.
It will be apparent that the purpose of adhesive strip 54 could
also be served by the initial provision of adhesive areas (not
snown) at the a~propriate locations on either second welt 52
or facing strip 46, if desired. As is best shown in FIGURE 13,
it will be appreciated that either adhesive strip 40 or adhesive
strip 54 can be provided with sufficient width to secure the upper
end of pocket panel 26 to inner panel 24 and/or the inside of
yarment 30. An optional stitch 55 can be added for reinforcement.
Stitch 55 is similar to optional stitch 45, but is utilized to
interconnect second welt 52, the upper half of flap set 36, and
inner panel 2~. Stitch 55 preferably extends along substantially
the entire width of pocket slot 38. After positioning of welts
44 and 52, and faciny strip 46, stitched bar tacks 50 are added
to mechanically interconnect the desired componentsr inner panel
~4 and garment 30. Panel 26 is then closed and sealed in the
usual manner to complete the pocket construction. Consequently,
it will be understood that the method of the invention can be
utilized to construct pockets having double welts.
Referriny to FIGURES 14 and 15, there is shown a
simulated double welt 56 which can be incorporated into the
invention. In place of single welt 44, welt 56 can be laid over
adhesive strip 40 across the lower edge of yocket slot 38
Simulated double welt 56 comprises a length of suitable material
folded so as to yive the appearance of a double welt construction.
- 17 -
113~277S
As is best shown in FIGURE 15, simulated double welt 56 achieves
this purpose by being folded and flattened in an uneven ~
confi~uration. No additional adhesive strips are required when
~sing welt 56. After the positioning of simulated double welt
56, the fusible material comprising adhesive strip 40 is then
activated to secure welt 56 to panel 24 across pocket slot 38.
An oytional stitch 57 can be added for reinforcement. Stitch
57 is similar to stitch 45, and is utilized to interconnect
double welt 56, the lower half of flap set 36, and inner panel
1~ ; 24. Stitch 57 preferably extends along substantially the entire
width of pocket slot 38. If desired, pocket facing strip 46
can then be laid over welt 56 and the remaining portion of pocket
slot 38, followed by the placement of stitched bar tacks 50.
Panel 26 can then be closed and sealed in the usual manner.
Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the
invention can be utilized to construct a simulated double welt
pocket.
With reference now to FIGURES 16 and 17, placement of
pocket flap 58 can be incorporated in the method of the invention.
The wi~th of flap 58 is such that it can be positioned within
pocket slot 38. Flap 58 can be utilized with or without welt 44
and/or faciny strip 46. Preferably, flap 58 is utilized in
conjunction with welt 44 and faciny strip 46. Either before or
after the placement of welt 44, flap 58 is positioned within the
pocket slot 38 so that the ~pper end of flap 58 overlays adhesive
strip 40 adjacent the upper side of slot 38. The fusible material
comprising a~hesive strip 40 is activated to secure flap 58 to
panel 24. An optional stitch 59 can be added for reinforcement.
Stitch 59 is sirnilar to stitch 45, but is utilized to interconnect
- 18 -
1~3~ 7
37233CIP2
flap 58, the upper half of flap set 36, and inner panel 24.
Stitch 59 preferably extends along substantially the entire
width of pocket slot 38. If desired, facing strip 46 can then
be laid over the upper end of flap 58, welt 44, and over the
remaining portion of pocket slot 38. Adhesive strip 60 is
positioned between the upper end of flap 58 and facing strip 46
to provide a means for sealing the upper end of the pocket
construction. It will be appreciated that adhesive areas (not
shown) can be provided initially at the appropriate locations o
flap 58 and/or facing strip 46 to function in place of adhesive
strip 60, if desired. Stitched bar tacks 50 are then added at
each end of slot 38 to mechanically interconnect garment 30, panel
24, and the desired pocket components. It will be understood that
tacks 50 do not extend through flap 58. Following formation of
tacks 50, panel 26 is closed and the remaining adhesive areas are
secured to seal the upper section of the pocket construction.
Consequently, it will be understood that the method of the
invention can also be utilized to construct pockets having flaps.
The pocket construction method described above
and illustrated in FIGURES 1-17 comprises a first embodiment
of the invention which is particularly suited for fabricating
back pockets in trousers, or other types of pockets which are
located within a garment panel and away from the periphery
thereof. The method illustrated in FIGURES 1-17 is not especially
desirable for front-type pockets. On the other hand, the pocket
construction method shown in FIGURES 18-33 represents a second
embodiment of the invention which is suitable for front trouser
pockets or other pockets which may be located on a seam at the
edge of a garment panel.
-- 19 --
Z~77
. .
FIG[~RES 18 and 19 show a pocket blank 70 useful in
practicillg the second embodiment of the invention herein.
Pocket blank 70 is illustrated in a flat, unfolded initial
condition with the reverse side up in FIGU~E 18. Pocket
S blank 70 is defined by a yenerally rectangular len~Jth of
pocket material 72 of sufficient size to permit fa;)rication
of the desired pocket. Material 72 can comprise any suitable
natural or synthetic cloth material, the exact cornposition
of which is not critical to the invention.
Adhesive areas 74 are located alongside part of
both longitudinal edges of the reverse side of material 72.
Adhesive areas 74 are of predetermined width and extend from
lower end 76 at least to transverse fold line 78 on material
72. Prefera~ly, pocket blank 70 also includes a generally
transverse adhesive area 80 extending diagonally across the
reverse side of material 72. The upper end 82 of pocket
blank 70 is also angled or cut diagonally as will be explained
more fully hereinafter.
Adhesive areas 74 and 80 can be formed by attaching
thin layers of fusible adhesive material to pocket blank 70
in the desired locations, in a fashion similar to that described
with regard to pocket blank 10. The fusible material is
preferably thermally responsive and rnay comprise ribbons or
strips of extruded polyamide, nylon or polyester materials of
the type rnanufactured by General Fabric Fusing Company of
Cincinnati, Ohio. If desired, fusible adhesive can be extruded
directly onto pocket material 72.
-- 20
77
37
As indicated by arrows 84 in FIGURE 18, the
longitudinal edges of pocket blank 70 are turned inwardly
so that adhesive areas 74 face the same direction as adhesive
area 80. FIGURE 19 shows pocket blank 70 after folding the
longitudinal edges thereof. It will thus be apparent that
pocket blank 70 is substantially similar to pocket blank 10
utilized in the first embodiment of the invention, except that
adhesive area 80 and upper end 82 are diagonally rather than
perpendicularly oriented with respect to the sides of the pocket
blank.
Referring to FIGURE 20, there is shown a pocket
blank 70a which may be used as an alternative to pocket blank
70. In pocket blank 70a, adhesive areas 74 are provided on
the same side of pocket blank 72 as adhesive area 80, rather
than the opposite side thereof. mhis eliminates the step of
inwardly folding the longitudinal edges of material 72 but
results in a pocket of somewhat less finished appearance by
reason of the exposed edges. It will thus be apparent that pocket
blank 70a is substantially similar to pocket blank lOa shown
in FIGURE 10, except that adhesive area 80 and upper end 82
are diagonally rather than perpendicularly oriented with
respect to the side of the pocket blank.
P~eferring to FIGURES 21 and 22, a garment panel
86 wherein a pocket is desired is prepared to receive pocket
blank 70. The material of garment panel 86 can comprise
any suitable natural or synthetic fabric, the composition of
which is not critical to the invention. Garment panel 86 is
shown with the inside surface up and can comprise, for
example, a left or right front trousers panel.
- 21 -
11392,7 ~ ~ I
To prepare garment panel 86, a pocket opening is formed
in one corner thereof. As illustrated, a slit or cut ~8 of
predetermined length is made inward from top edge 90 of panel
86. Another slit or cut 92 extends from the end of cut 88 to
S side edge 94 of panel 86 so that piece 96 can be removed
therefrom. Preferably, a small cut 98 is Inade at t~le junction
of cuts 88 and 92 so that the edges of panel 86 defined thereby
can be folded back. In addition, another small cut 100 is
preferably made in side edye 94 below cut 92 so that a portion
; of the side edge can be folded inwardly. Piece 56 is then removed
and discarded or utilized for belt loop construction, as desired.
The pocket blank 70 and an adhesive strip 102 are
then positioned on the inside surface of garment panel 86, as
shown in FIGUKE 22. Upper end 82 of pocket blank 70 is
positioned beneath edge 92a previously formed by cut 92. Adhesive
strip 102 is then placed on garment panel ~6 between edge 92a
and end 82 of pocket blank 70. Adhesive strip 102 preferably
consists of a piece of extruded fusible adhesive material carried
on a backing layer (not shown). By this means, strip 102 can
2() be positioned on garment panel 86 and partially activated throu~h
the backing layer to secure it in place. The backing layer (not
sllown) can then be peeled away to expose the outside of adhesive
strip 102.
Referring to FIGURE 23, edge 88a, edge 92a, and that
yortion of garment panel edge 94 above cut 100 are then foided
inwardly. Preferably, that portion of right edge 9~ is folded
inwardly against pocket blank 70 before edge 92a and adhesive
strip 102 are folded thereover. Adhesive strip 102 is then
activated to bond pocket blan}; 70 to garment panel 86. Activation
of the adhesive may be accomplished, for example, with a heated
- 22 -
11~9~
press or other means capable of converting the adhesive from
a solid state to a plastic state as previously explained herein
witrl reyard to the first inventive embodiment illustrated in
~`IG~RE~ 1-17. Pocket blank 70 is thus adhesively secured at
the upper end thereof to garment panel 86.
~n optional reinforcing stitch 104 can be added for
yurposes of reinforcement. Stitch 104 extends alongside
the lower edye of pocket opening 106 and interconnects pocket
blank 70 and garment panel 86. Stitch 104 preferably extends
through the outside surface of garment panel 86 to lend a handmade
appeararlce to the garment.
Before pocket blank 70 is folded about fold line 78
and closed, a facing strip 108 is attached to the pocket blank
in accordance with the preferred practice of the invention.
Facing stri~ 108 is secured to pocket blank 70 by means of
adhesive area 80, and is dimensioned to cover pocket opening
106 after closing and sealing the pocket blank. Faciny strip
108 preferably extends across pocket blank 70 between the
inwardly folded edye portions thereof and may extend beneath the
folded edge portions. It will be understood that facing strip
108 does not cover adhesive areas 74 and is adhesively secured
by adhesive area 80 to pocket blank 70 at the lower end of the
facing strip only.
Referrin~ to FIGURES 24-26, a second garment panel
110 is preferably joined to garment panel 86 before pocket blank
70 is closed and sealed. Garment panels 86 and 110 are
interconnected in conventional fashion by stitching 112 joining
edge 9~ of garment panel 86 and edge 114 of panel 110 to form a
plain seam. Pocket blank 70 is then folded to position facing
strip 108 over pocket opening 106 and close the pocket.
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1~3~ 77
37233CIP2
Preferably, stitching 112 extends upwardly to interconnect facing
strip 108 and second garment panel 110 as can be seen in FIGURE
26. The pocket is sealed by securing the edges of the
transversely folded pocket blank 70.
Adhesive areas 74 are utilized to secure the folded
pocket blank 70 to garment panel 86. The upper portion of left
adhesive area 74 adhesively interconnects pocket blank 70 and
the folded back edge portion 88a of garment panel 86. The upper
portion of right adhesive area 74 adhesively interconnects pocket
blank 70 with the edge of facing strip 108, which is secured
to garment panel 86 by seam 112 as shown in FIGURE 26.
In the alternative, as shown in FIGURE 27, the upper
portion of right adhesive area 74 can be employed to adhesively
connect pocket blank 70 to the folded back edge 114 of garment
lS panel 110. One side of folded pocket blank 70 would thus cover
a portion of seam 113 to improve the interior finish of the
garment.
Referring again to FIGURE 24, stitched bar tacks
116 are provided next through both layers of pocket blank 70,
and edge portion 92a of garment panel 86. The bar tacks 115
are located at each end of edge portion 92a as can be seen best
in FIGURE 28. The various components of the pocket are thus
mechanically interconnected by bar tacks 116, which ma~ also
comprise staples, rivets or suitable adhesive if desired. Bar
tacks 116 thus function to reinforce the pocket construction
and further serve to lend a handmade appearance to the garment.
A waistband of conventional construction is ultimately added
over the upper end of closed pocket blank 70 and across the
upper edges of panels 86 and 110 in finishing construction of
the garment, which has been described as a pair of trousers for
purposes of illustration here.
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_ . . .
;
9Z77
I!
!! FIGURE 2~ illustrates a partial front view of trousers
118 incorporating garment panels 86 and 110 with a pocket
construction in accordance with the second embodiment of the
j invention. The pocket in trousers 118 is a western-type pocket.
l Pocket opening 106 is defined by facing strip 108 in conjunction
with the folded, adhesively secured and stitched portions of
garment panel 86. A waistband 120 extends across the tops of
panels 86 and 110. A right front trousers pocket is shown
1 for illustrative purposes in FIGURE 28; however, it will be
l~ understood that the inventive method described herein can be
utilized to construct left front trouser pcckets as well.
~ With reference to FIGURES 29 and 30, there is shown
¦l a first modification of the pocket constructed according to the
,¦ second embodiment of the invention. The pocket illustrated
l, is basically the pocket shown in FIGURE 2~ except that the cut
defining the lower edge of the pocket opening 106 is not notched,
but e~tends straiyht to the seam 112 between panels ~6 and 110.
The modification shown in FIGURES 29 and 30 includes the addition
Il of pocket welt 122 which is of substantially similar construction
1I to welt 44 utilized in the first inventive embodiment herein.
Welt 122 is positioned on the inside of folded edge portion 92a
¦l and adhesively secured thereto by means of adhesive strip 124
before provision of stitching 126 therethrough, closure of
Il pocket blank 70 and provision of bar tacks 116 therethrough.
Ij Prefera~ly, the lower edge of welt 122 is secured to the inner
pocket panel of pocket blank 70 with an adhesive strip 127.
The method of constructing pockets according to the second
embodiment of the invention can thus be readily modified to
generate a welted front pocket construction.
!
Ii
~ 5 -
3~7
,1
1~ .
FIGURES 31-33 show three other types of front pockets
which can be constructed by the method comprising the second
embodiment of the invention. The configuration of the folded
,~ edge portion of garment panel 86 which defines the shape
,l of the pocket opening is the only difference between these
, three types of pockets. FIGURE 31 shows a scoop type pocket
wherein the edge portion 128 is curved rather than angular.
, FIGUR~ 32 shows another form of scoop pocket in which the edge
portion 130 of garment panel 86 is J-shaped. FIGURE 33 shows a
Ij slash type pocket wherein the edge port,ion 128 extends in a
; straiyht line across one corner of garment panel 86. It will be
understood that each of these pockets can be constructed simply
by forming the particular pocket opening desired into garment
I~ panel 86 and otherwise proceeding in all other respects under
the pocket construction method comprising the second embodiment
,1 of the invention.
! From the foregoing, it will be understood that the
present invention comprises a method of constructing pockets
,I which incorporates numerous advantages over the prior art. One
1l important advantage deriving from the method of the invention
Il involves the fact that numerous manual operations which were
l¦ heretofore required in the construction of pockets have been
,l eliminated. Other important benefits derive from the extensive
,1 use of fusible materials in the construction process. A further
25 1l advantage is the fact that all steps of the method, including
the steps of adhesively securing sections of the pocket by
activation of fusible materials, are performed from the inside
"
.1
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11392~7
,1 of the garment so that the outside surface of the garment is
protected from damage. Other advantages deriving from the use of
the invention will readily suggest themselves to those s~illed in
I the art.
1l Although particular embodiments of the invention have
been illustrated in the accompanying Drawings and described in
, the foreyoiny Detail Description, it will be understood that the
! appiication not limited to the embodiments disclosed, but is
!, intended to embrace any alternatives, modifications,
lC 11 rearrangements and substitutions of parts and elements as fall
! within the spirit and scope of the invention.
. .
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