Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
~230~
This invention relates to the use of vegetable
oil adc1ucts, either alone or in combination with vegetable
oils and/or modified vegetable oils as additives in skin and
hair care products. More particularly, tlliS invention
relates to the use of both water-soluble and wa-ter-insoluble
salts of vegetablc oil adducts with or without vegetable
oils or modiEied vegetable oils as emollients in skin and
hair care products. Specifically, this invention relates to
the use of adducts prepared from vegetable oils containing
nonconjugated polyunsaturated fatty acid esters which are
conjugated and then modified via Diels-~lder addition with
acrylic acid, fumaric acid or maleic anhydrlde as emollients
in skin and hair care products.
Skin is made up of several layers of cells which
coat and protect the keratin and collegen fibrous proteins
that form the skeleton of its structure. ~nionic surfactants
typically penetrate the outermost of these layers, known as
the stratum corneum membrane, by delipidization to destroy
its integrity. This destruc-tion of the skin surface topo-
graphy leads to a rough feel and may eventually permi t thesurfactant to interact with the keratin, crea-ting irritation.
Organic solvents are a major cause of delipidiza-
tion of the stratum corneum. Also, solvents or solvent
mixtures whicll are both lipid and water soluble are most
effective in delipid:izatioll ~ somet:imes removinc3 LIS IllUCh as
10% to ~0% oE
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i ~3(~5~8
Case Docket No. C~R 84-10
lipids from the skin upon long soaking. Specific chain length
! ranges of less water soluble organics are also deleterious.
` Hydrocarbons of the chain lengths present in kerosene ~bolling
range 272C to 333C) interact with the lipids to yroduce
abnormal thickening of the stratum corneum. Kerosene, of course,
~jis a common component utilized in waterless hand cleaners.
Medium chain length surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate and
~-olefin sulfonates commonly used in dish washing detergents are
deleterious to the skin even in very dilute solutions. The
activity of this class of substances is thought to be due to a
Istrong binding of the surfactant functional group with protein
¦jmolecules in the keratin filaments causing them to be reversibly
¦jdenatured from the a-helix to the ~-configuration through an
¦luncoiling of the filaments which expands the tissue. Once this
has occurred, complete recovery of the barrier function probably
does not occur even ater all of the surfactant is removed
because of the complex composition and nature of the stratum
corneum.
jl Cosmetic creams which employ mineral oil also include
~vegetable oils for partial replacement of skin surface lipids
! removed due to the solvent action of the mineral oil.
~¦ The proper water gradient across the stratum corneum is
important to its functionality. Most of this water, which is
sometimes considered to be the stratum corneum's plasticizer,
;comes from inside the body. If the humidity is too low, such as
in a cold climate, insufficient water remains in the outer layers
of the stratum corneum to properly plastici~e the tissue; and the
skin begins to scale and becomes itchy. Skin permeability is
also decreased somewhat when there is inadequate water across the
stratum corneum. On the other hand, too much water on the
outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to ultimately sorb
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;.
! Case Docket No. CIIR 84-10
~three to five times its own weight of bound water. This swells
and puckers the skin and results in an approximately two to three
fold increase of the permeability to water and other polar
"molecules above the permeability at optimum hydration.
j Hair consists of many of the same constituents as the
¦stratum corneum. The outermost region of cells forms a rather
thick chemically resistant protective coating enclosing the hair
fiber which is called the cuticle. The surface of the cuticle is
Illcovered with a thin layer called the epicuticle which is thought
¦to contain lipids and protein. The cuticle envelopes the cortex
¦¦cells which comprise the major part of the fiber mass.
Keratinization takes place in the cortex to build stability into
the hair structure.
Thus, a need exists for substances which will assist
the stratum corneum and hair cuticle in maintaining their barrier
l,and water retention functions at optimum performance in spite of
¦'~deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in washing,
)work, and recreation.
Ij In the discussion on cosmetic creams and lotions in the
¦:Encyclopedia of Chemical Technolo~y, Third Edition, Volume 7, a
llclassic example of a cream formulation is given which includes
1!11 . 8-12.1% spermaceti. It is also noted that modern formulations
which employ mineral oil in place of the earlier used almond oil
must include vegetable oil for`partial replacement of skin
surface lipids removed by the solvent action of the mineral oil.
Cosmetic lotion formulations are almost identical to
the creams except an oil-in-water emollient lotion usually
contains more water than the corresponding cream. These lotions
are preferred for use during the day because they produce a
'lighter or less oily emollient film. Cosmetic lotion
- 3 - i
.
~2~
,~ Case Doclcet No. CIIR 84-10
~formulations in the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technolo~y include
1-1.5% lanolin anhydrous as the primary emollient.
Unfortunately, emollient additives presently employed
~,in creams and lotions do not provide the persistency desired in
¦Itheir skin softening effects. Therefore, a particular need
exists for emollient additives which promote skin softening ~or a
¦ilonger period of time than presently available emollients.
¦! Hair preparations also may benefit from inclusion of
emollients. The barrier and water retention functions of the
j~hair cuticle may be assisted similarly to the stratum corneum of
'ithe skin, particularly in shampoos and hair straighteners,
¦'ILanolin and its derivatives are included in shampoo,formulations
as conditioning agents to impart ease of combing, detangling,
!,bodY shine, manageability, split-end mending, and prevention of
llstatic build-up.
!~ The beneficial effects of emolliency to both skin and
jhair may be most appreciated in dandruff shampoos. Dandruff is
ithe product of hyperkeratinization. The rate of keratinization
;increases to the point that the scales become more visible.
~Dandruff shampoos contain ingredients that effectively control
dandruff by allowing a normal turnover rate of epidermal cells.
A s~in and hair softening emollient should reduce the rate of
keratinization in the scalp stratum corneum and, at the same
time, benefit the hair cuticle.
Therefore, an object of the present invention is to
provide additives for skin and hair preparations. A further
object is to provide skin and hair preparation e~lmollient
additives which give a softening effect to the skin stratum
corneum or the hair cuticle. A still further object of this
invention is to provide skin and hair preparation additives which
provide a more persistent softening effect than known emollients.
'1
;, - 4 -
.~30~
It has now been d:iscovered -that certain vegetable
oil lipid adduets, either alone or in combination witll vege-
table oils and/or modified vegetable oils, provide persistent
softenillg effeets upon ineorporation in skin and hair care
preparations.
~ ccordingly, one aspeet of the invention provides
an improved skin eare formulation including, as an emollient
therefor, one or more vegetable oil adducts afEording enhanced
persistency of softening, the adducts being prepared from
10 vegetable oils containing nonconjugated polyunsaturated fatty
aeid esters whieh are eonjugated and elaidinized and -then
modified via Diels-Alder addition with a member of the group
eonsisting of aerylie aeid, fumarie aeid and maleic anhydride.
Another aspeet of the invention provides an
improved hair eare preparation including as an emollient
therefor one or more vegetable oil adduets, affording
enhanced softening of hair euticle, the adducts being pre-
pared from vegetable oils eontaining noneonjugated polyunsa-
turated fatty acid esters which are conjugated and elaidin-
20 ized and then modified via Diels-~lder addition with a
member of the group consisting of acrylic aeid, fumaric acid
and maleic anhydride.
The emollients of this invention inelude both the
water-soluble and water-insoluble salts of the vegetable oil
25 adducts. ~s indieated above, -the vegetable oil aclduets of
the invention are adduets prepared Erom vegetable oils eon-
-taining noneonjugated polyunsaturatecl Eatty aeid esters whLeh
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:~3~
are conjllgated alld tllen mod-ified via Diels-Alcler a~`ldition
with acrylic aci.d, fumaric acid, or maleic anllydri.de.
Tlle vegetabl.e oil adclucts essential to this
invention may be made from vegetable oils having polyunsatur-
ated fatty acld ester groups in the triglyceride moleculethereby increasing the carboxyl content of the fa-tty acid
ester groups. These vegetable oil adducts are made by first
conjugating and elaidinizing the nonconjuga-ted portion Or the
polyunsaturated fatty acid, mainly linol.e:ic acid, followed
by Diels-AI.der addition witll fumaric acid, maleic anhydride
or acrylie aeid. It is essential that the eonjugation and
elaidinization take place before the acrylie add.ition to
produee the aerylie acid adduct in optimum yield. With
fumarie aeid or maleie anhydride the aeid or anhydride can
be present at the time conjugation and elaidiniza-tion -takes
place without adversely affecting the reaction.
These vegetable oil adducts and their preparation
are taught in U.S. Patent 2,678,~34 to Grummitt and U.S.
Patent
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~3~ 8
Case Docket No. CIIR 84-10
` b,196,134 to Ball et al The vegetable oil adducts form
, triglyceride acids of the general formula
,j O
CH2 - - C Rl
Il
O / CH = CH
! CH - O - C - (CH2)y - CH / ( 2)x 3
O CH - CH
. . Il
CH2 - O - C - R2
wherein x and y are integers from 3 to 9, x and y together equal
12, each Z can be a carboxylic acid group in which all or part of
the carboxyl groups may be in the anhydride form or one Z can be
hydrogen and the other Z a carboxylic acid group, and Rl and R2
are saturated/unsaturated hydrocarbon radicals. These
triglyceride acids may be converted into their soap forms
including the soluble alkali metal soaps and amine soaps, the
insoluble alkaline earth and higher valent metal soaps or be
incorporated as the free acid to achieve the benefits of this
invention.
These benefits include a softening or emolliency of the
skin or hair which is retained at maximum activity for a period
of up to twenty hours. This activity is not diminished by normal '
cleaning procedures such as washing with soap and water or even
cleaning with so called waterless hand cleaners consisting of a
cream composed of soap, water, odorless kerosene and a variety of
lesser ingredients such as lanolin and sometimes pumice stone to
enhance their cosmetic and cleaning properties.
Although the discovered compounds ~roduce good
softening and moisturizing of the skin alone, it has been found
that these ~enefits can be enhanced by the additiorI of the parent
oil to them with the optimum blend being about half vegetable oil
,, I
Case Docket No. CHR 84-10
adduct and half vegetable oil. Still further enhancement results
i~ the vegetable oil has been disproportionated to conjugate the
double bonds in the linoleic and linolenic acid groups present in
the oil. Although any of the adducts mentioned are effective
j,emollients, the adduct providing optimum effectiveness is the
¦,fumaric acid Diels-Alder product. A preferred method of
achieving the optimized product is to react two moles of
vegetable oil with one mole of the dienophile in the presence of
catalytic amounts of iodine, the conjugation and elaidinization
agent. This simultaneously produces the 50:50 blend of adduct to
disproportionated vegetable oil.
From the following examples, it can be seen that the
l~adducts of this invention are uniquely advantageous because of
the long time period over which they provide softening and
emolliency to the skin. In order to remain effective for such
long periods, it would appear that they must possess an affinity
for or at least optimum compatibility with one or more components
of the skin probably present in the stratum corneum. This could
be an interaction of the hydrophobic portions of the adduct and
free vegetable oil, if it is present, with lipid granules in the,
intercellular space or the more hydrophilic lipids which make up
the walls of the keratinized cells. If the adduct were capable
of entering the cell, its carboxylic acid groups might interact
with protein amine groups around the exterior of a-helical
disulfide bonded keratin chains. Regardless of how it is
retained within the skin, the soybean oil fumaric acid adduct has
been demonstrated to possess a very large hydrophilic group area
of about 97.5A2 for the free acid and 116.2A2 for the disodium
soap. By comparison, the head group of monocarboxylic fat~y
acids only occupies 35A2. It would be anticipated that this
large a polar region might hydrogen bond considerable amounts of
~58
Case Docket No. CIIR 84-10
,,water. Thus, it could effectively moisturize the skin with water
in the regions where it is located. Although the exact m~chanism
'by~ which these adducts function is unknown, their effectiveness
is surprising.
Example 1
In thè one step preparation of an optimized blend of
50X soybean oil fumarir acid adduct and 50% conjugated soybean
iloil~ 164 lbs (0.188 lb/moles) of food grade refined soybean oil,
lO.6 lbs (0.091 lb/moles) f,umaric acid and 0.66 lb iodine were
added to a 30-gallon pressure reaction vessel. The reactor was
¦¦sealed, heated to 250C and held at this temperature for four
Ihours while the contents were being stirred. The resulting
¦!product had an acid number of 63.6 and a color of 3~ on the
! iGardner scale.
i, Example 2
!
' The preparation o the soybea~ oil fumaric acid add~lct
'was performed by adding 200 lbs of ~efined soybean oil, 26 lbs of
fumaric acid and 0.60 lb of iodine to a 30-gallon pressure
',reactor. The reactor was sealed, heated to 210~C and held at
,that temperature for four hours with stirring. The resulting
'product had an acid number of 114.8 and a color of 5 on the
'Gardner scale.
. i ~
Example_3
This example illustrates the preparation of alkali
metal soaps and their efficacy in skin care.
To a 400 ml beaker equipped with a stirrer were added
113.12 grams of water and 13.12 grams of potassium hyclroxide
pellets (~6% solids). After heating the solution to 60(`, 100
., ~
, ~ 8
1230S58 Case Docket No. ClIR 84-10
, ~
~grams of soybean oil fumaric acid adduct from Example 2 was
! slowly added with stirring. After 15 minutes additional stirring
at 60C, the mixture was allowed to cool. The viscosity of the
~yellow product was 2,050 centipoise at 50C, and its pH was 8.45.
To a 150 ml beaker containing 50 grams of the above 50%
¦Isolids potassium soap of the soybean oil fumaric acid adduct, 25
;Igrams of soybean oil was slowly added while good agitation was
imaintained. The resulting sy~tem had a viscosity of 7,100
¦¦centipoise and a pH of 8.3.
i` Application to the skin produced a smooth soft feel
without slipperlness or other undesirabl~ properties. While
rubbing the skin to adsorb the last of the product, the skin
developed a slightly sticky feel for an instant until all of the
product had disappeared from sight. The normal routine of work,
Irecreation and rest was carried out for the next 20 hours which
¦included considerable exposure to water using both hand soap and
lliquid dishwashing detergent. At the end of the 20 hours, the
'"skin still possessed the smooth softness which the product had
'loriginally imparted.
l .
¦~ Example 4
The sodium soap of the soybean oil fumaric acid adduct
,was prepared by heatin& 108 grams of water ln which was dissolved
8.4 grams of sodium hydroxide pellets ~97.6% solids) to 60C and
adding 100 grams of soybean oil fumaric acid adduct from
Example 2. After stirring 15 minutes at 60C, the soap was
allowed to cool. It had a pll of 8.6 and viscosity of 2,160
centipoise at 45C.
In a 250 ml beaker, 40 grams of soybean oil was slowly
added to 80 grams of the above sodium soap. This gave a system
with viscosity of 3,200 centipoise and pII 8.7. There was no
,
_ g _ ,
:123~)~5~3
Case Docket No. C~IR 84-10
qticky feel at any stage during the rubbing of this product into
the skin. It exhibited similar long lasting skin softening to
`~the potassium soap.
, '
il Example 5
il To illustrate the preparation of a monovalent amine
jlsalt, an anhydrous triethanol amine soap was prepared by mixing
13.9 grams of triethanol amlne into 100 grams of soybean oil
~fumaric acid adduct from Example 2 to give a clear viscous gel.
This soap showed skin softening properties similar to the alkali
jmetal soaps. It was compounded into soft soap formulations where
¦lit assisted in pearlescent and improved rinsing from the skin
without detracting from the lathering properties of the soft
llsoap .
Example 6
This example illustrates the utility of soaps of
`multivalent metal ions and soybean oil fumaric acid adduct in
iskin care.
~¦ In a 500 ml beaker, 9.29 grams of sodium hydroxide
jpellets (97.6% solids) were dissolved in 121 ml of water. One
Hundred (100~ grams of soybean oil fumaric acid adduct from
Example 2 was then added. After stirring 20 minutes to produce a
-viscous homogeneous soap, a solution consisting of 24.85 grams of
magnesium sulfate heptahydrate dissolved in 71 ml of water was
added over a period of 15 minutes. After about 2/3 of the
magnesium sulfate solution had been added, the viscous
homogeneous soap~separated into a two phase system. After
`stirring for one hour and allowing the system to settle for
another hour, the aqueous phase was pourcd off; and the viscous
gel was washed twice with 131 ml portions of distilled water to
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`' ~230~
`! Case Docket No. C~IR 84-lO
.remove any remaining sodium sulfate. Each batch of wash water
~was stirred with the organic phase for an hour; then the system
was allowed to settle for another hour before removing from the
~organic phase. Handling of this magnesium soap of soybean oil
. ~')fumaric acid adduct produced a smooth soft feel to the hands
which remained for days after application.
Example 7
! This example illustrates the ability of soybean oil
fumaric acid adduct and conjugated soybean oil to provide skin
softness and overcome the deleterious effects of kerosene on the
skin.
A viscous but pourable soap of the soybean oil fumaric
acid adduct-conjugated soybean oil blend in Example l was
prepared by slowly adding 50 grams of the adduct to a solution of
56.56 grams of potassium hydroxide pellets (86% solids) dissolved
in 56.56 grams of water. The turbid solution had a pH of about
~8.5. .
~¦ To 17 grams of the above soap in a 35 ml screw cap
bottle was added kerosene in 3 ml increments until the bottle was
full. After each incremental addition of kerosene, the system
was stirred with a magnetic stirrer for 45 minutes. The final
~solution was low in viscosity and clear. This blend was found to
i,clean hidden dirt from the fingerprint pattern and other crevices
iof the hands as evidenced by black colored deposit on a dry paper
'towel used to wipe it off and the visually improved cleanliness
'!
of the skin. Further, its viscosity was sufficiently low for it
to be easily worked under the fingernails to remove grease and
grime, a particularly difficult task for mechanics.
In contrast to commercially available waterless hand
cleaners typically composed of about 40Z kerosene, 40Z water and
li ,
~3~S58 Case Docket ~o. CIIR ~4-l0
20Z oleic acid type soap, the formulation of this example
provided skin s~ftening similar to tha~ o hand creams which
lasted for several hours. There was also no tendency for this
'formulation to produce painful cracks deep into the stratum
~icorneum in the fingerprint areas of the hands which is the common
j~fault of the commercial waterless hand cleaners.
l Example 8
¦¦ The product of Example 1 (designated as PC~-178) was
idirectly compared to anhydrous lanolin and the refined, less
!¦viscous lanolin oil for emollient properties in a typical hand
¦llotion formulation at a level of 5%. The evaluation procedure
~employed was that developed by Goldemberg and De la Rosa
¦ described in their article "Correlation of Skin Feel of
!IEmollients to Their Chemical Structure," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem.
¦¦22 635-654 (1971). The emulsions in each case were evaluated as
unmarked samples by the same panel of laboratory workers for
`~comparisons of initial feeL on the skin, behavior during rub-in,
and final feel after the emulsion had been absorbed into the
ilskin. Initial Slip was rated on a scale from 1 to 5 ~slight to
much slip). End Feel was rated for smoothness, oiliness,
¦,friction and moistness. Each of these four qualities was rated
! on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 representing the most desirable
feel. A numerical value for End Feel was obtained by adding
together the scores for each quality rated. Possible values for
End Feel thus ranged from 4 to 20. The results are presen~ed in
the table presented below
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;!
~3~58
i Case Docket No. C~IR 84-10
il "APPLICATION" PROPERTIES OF LOTION
i
~i End Feel
~1 .
i~ Emollient Initial Slip Smoothness Oiliness Friction Moistness
I
Anhydrous Lanolin 4 3 3 1 3
1 2 1 2 3
3 5 4 4 5
. 3 3 3 1 3
i 5 4 4 5 4
16 17 13 ~'~~ 18
il Total - 61
i _
Average Average
Score 3 2 Score 12.2
I
I
Lanolin Oil 3 3 2 1 2 .
2 3 1 3 3
4 3 5
- 3 3 4 2 2
4 5 4
18 19 ~ 14 ~'~
Total - 64
Average Average
~~ Score 3.6 Score 12.8
i' PCW-178 2 3 3 4 4
2 3 1 3 4
1 5 5 5 5
!1 4 4 4 2 3
'i 4 4 5 4 4
'il 13 19 -18 18 20
i Total - 75
!i I
, Average Average
'! Score 2.6 Score 15.0
_
.
Although the Initial Slip was not rated as favorably,
the emollient of the invention was rated superior to both
.commercial emollients in End Feel.
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.j i
1 1230558 Case Docket No. Cllr~ ~4-10
While the invention has been described and illustrated
herein by references to various specific materials, procedures
','and examples, it is understood that the invention is not
"restricted to the particular materials, combinations of
'Imaterials, and procedures selected for that purpose. Numerous
,,variations of such details can be employed, as will be
appreciated by those skille in the art.
!. ~
., .
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