Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
FIFTn OF THE INYENTION
This m vention rElates to a novel construction for hand-made
jewelry chain, pKpularly known as "rope" chain, and to ~he methcd of
making such rcpe ~hain.
R~CKGR3UND OF THE_ ~ ON
: Jewelry rope chaLn has, for decades, been made largely by
hand, and will be first descr~bed. The kasic construction element, or
component, of rope chain of the prior art is an annular link formed of
a solid wire, usually of precious metal, e.g., 14 Carat gold. Such
rope chain i~ extremely popular but it is costly to mak2, primarily
because it utilizes a grea~ deal of precicus metal, such as 14 Carat
gold. It is a primary objec~ of the present invention to reduce ~he
: amount of precious metal requir~d to make a rope chain.
The ~ollow mg Unit3d States patents rE~late to the art of
makiny rope cha m, either manually or by machine.
PATENT NO. INVENTOR
848,299 Feid
979,110 UncJerer
1,053,726 Hamm
201,886,784 Boppenhausen
4,493,183 Bucetari
4,503,664 Allazzetta
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SUMM~RY OF THE INVEN~ION
This invention utilizes a differen~ ~nnMlar link as the
building element of the rope chain than does the prior art. Instead of
using a split ~nnul æ link of a 3:1 ratio of lLik inner diameter to
major wire diameter, this invention ut;lizes a substantially thinner
annulus for each link formlng the rope chain, an an~llus ~hat re~uires
an over 5:1 ratio of inner annulus diameter to maior wire diameter.
The presently preferred ratio is between 5.2 and 5.7:1.
Ihe number of li~ks to be intertwined in this inv~ntion
increases, but the net savings in material, if the material is a
precious metal, more than offset~ the increased labor cost. An
approxImate weight sav mg of 20% results frcm using a 5.4:1 ratio of
annular link. It is possible tD use even thinner annuluses, i.e.
having greater ratios, e.g., 7.2-7.7:1 with even greater weigh~ savings
(approximately 35~, or other even greater odd-numbered ratios of inner
; annulus dlameter to ma~or wire diameter (e.g. 9.4-9.9:1), but it
becomes quite difficult to make such a rope ~hain manually. Ihus,
while there is no theoretical limit, there is probably a maxLmum
practical upper limit to the ratio of inner annulus diameter to major
wire diameter.
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;BRIE~ DESCRIPTION OF TME FIGURES
Pigure l is a plan view of an annular link of the prior art;
.~
Figure 2 is a cross-section of the prior art wire forming the
annular link, taken along the line 2-2;
.
~igurP 3 is a cross section of another embodiment of prior
art wire firming the annular link of Figure l;
.. ..
Figure 4 is a side elevation showing a section of finished
rope chain o~ the prior art with forming wire not yet removed;
Figures Sa-5f show, in sequence and in perspective, tbe
build-up of prior art rope chain from prior art annular link~;
10Fl~ure 6 is a cross-section taken along the line 6-6 of
figure Se;
Fiqure 7 ~s a plan view of the annular link of this
invention;
Fi~ure 7a i8 a cross-section of the wire forming the annular
link taken along line 7a-7a of ~igure 7.
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~igures 8a-8g show the build-up, in sequence and in
perspective, of the rope cbain of this invention;
O~
Figure 9 is a cross-section taken along the line 9-9 of
figure Bg;
Figure 10 is a side elevation showing a section of finished
rope chain of this invention made along a "right-hand~ weave;;
.. . . .
Figure 11 is a schematic, exploded, cross-sectional view of
one section of rope chain showing the build-up of links from the
initial link (at 0) to the initial link of the next series (at .
10 90 ~;
Figure 12 is a schematic,~ assembled, cross-seGtional view-of
the æec$ion of rope chain shown ~n Figure 11; and
~ . } ~" .'' . "
~ Figure 13 is a side elevaton showing a sect~on of flnished
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rope chain of thi8 invention made along a ~left-hand~ weave.
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Ihe annular link 10 is shown in Figures 1 and 2 of the
drawings, and has an cpening or gap 12 formed therein. Ihe gap 12 has
a narrowest di~ension 17 at its inner dia~eter, and widens to its
laxgest dLmension at its outer diameter.
Ihe solid wire forming the link 10 usually has flattened
sides 13 and rounded ends 13a which give to the wire 10 a major
diameter 14 and a munor wire diameter 15. The cross-section of the
wire fo ~ the link 10 may also be of generally circular cross-
section. Ihe cpening 12 of link 10 is substantially larger than the
munor wire diameter 15 and is slightly larger khan the major diameter
at its narrowest dimension 17.
4a
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The wire 10, while shown as a solid in Figures 1 and 2, may
be hollow (See link lOa in Figures 3 and 4), but may otherwise be
of the same configuration as Figures 1 and 2. The hollow wire
link lOa obviously utilizes less gold than the solid wire link
10 f but it is more costly to manufacture the hollow lin~ lOa than
a solid wire link 10~
The split wire links 10 ~or lOa), in the prior art, are
usually made fro~ circular wire and the sides are flattened, and
a multiplicity of such links are inteetwined to form, in outward
appearance, a double heli~, as shown in Figure 4, which double
helix format is the standard rope chain 20 of the prior art. The
standard rope chain of the prior art of Figure 4 is made from the
~plit wire link~ 10, as will now be described.
Each annular link 10 of the rope chain 20 has an inner
.. . . . ............. ..... .
15 - dia~etër (Dl~ that i8 siightly over three times the ~a~or wire
dia~eter 14, e.g., 3.4X. The first link 10 forming the rope
- chain will.be termed herein the Al link, æo designated because it
is the first link in the first of a serle~ of four links.
The relative orientation o the links 10 for~ing the rope
2Q chain is important. The Al link i8 ini~lally oriented ~manually~
so that its opening, designate~ 12a, lies in a predetermined
direction, e.g., facing generally upwardly, as in Figure 5a. The
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second llnk of the A series, designated the A2 link, i~ passed
through the opening 12a of the Al lin~, with the opening 12b of
the A2 link facing downwardly at about 180 removed from the Al
link opening 12a, as shown in Figure Sb. The ~1 and A2 links are
juxtaposed and intertwined so that they lay against each other,
with the periphery of the A2 link lying against the periphery of
the Al link, to the grea~est extent possible, thereby creating a
relatively large central opening 30 withln the pair of inter-
twined abut~ing annular Al, A2 links~ The plane of the Al link
lies ~n parallel to the plane of the paper, and the plane of the
A2 link is slightly skewed from the Al plane.
The opening 12c of the third link, designated the A3 link, is
then passed tbrough the opening 12b of the A2 link and over the
minor diameter of the Al link and laid angularly against the Al
and A2 links, the opening 12c of the A3 l~nk lying in the same .
orienta ion as the opening 12a o~ the Al lin~D and as sbown in
Figure Sc, but with its plane ~ore greatly skewed than the Al and
A2 links. A central opening 30a still remains within the now
three intertwined links Al, A2 and A3. Tbe plane of each of the
links differs from each other by perhaps about 20 because their
abutment is angular.
Turning now to Figure 5d, the ope~ing 12d of a fourth link,
A4, is now passed over ~he Al, A2 and ~3 links, through the
central opening 32a, and the~eby envelopes the Al, A2 and A3
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links. The ~4 link is laid agalnst the other links (Al-A3) and
its plane lies approximately ~0 from the plane of the A3 link.
The opening 12d of the A4 link is disposed in the same
orientation a~ the opening 12b of the A2 link.
All of the just-described manipulations are generally
performed manually at the present time. As earlier mentioned,
the openings 12a-12d of the annular links 10 are large enou~h to
pass over the major and minor diameter of the wire formin~ the
link. ~urther, the series of links just described, Al-A4, each
hav~ng a Di f link slightly over three times the major wire
diameter, permits the ready manual intertwining o~ links just
described~ especially the envelop~ent of the A4 link about the
. .,
Al, A2 and A3 links.
The just-described intertwining and orientation of Al-A4
Is links per~its the continuation of tbe intertwining of additional
serie~ of links ~o~four unit:s eachj~ to ~reate a ~double helix~
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rope chain 20 of a de&ired length.- The adding on of an
additional series of four links ~designated herein as the B
series) is a repetitio~ of the orientation previously described
with reference to the Al-A4 series, but the planes of the B
series lie at approximately 90 to the planes of the respective
links in the A serles.
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~ us, the next link of the 8 serles, designated the 81 link,
has its opening 12e passing tbrough the Al-A4 links, and abutting
a solid portion of the Al link, as shown in E'igure 5e.~ It will
be noted that the orientation of the Bl link is at approximately
90 to that of the Al link, as shown in the cross-sectional view
taken along line 6-6 of Figure Se. The respective openings 12A
and 12e both face upwardly.
It is to be noted that, because of the slightly over three
times Di of each annular link with respect to the major wire
diameter, the Bl link can readily envelope the A2, A3 and A4
l~nks and abut the solid portion of the Al link.
. The B2 link is then pa83ed through downwardly facing opening
12~ of the A2 link and oriented 80 that its openin~ 12f faces
downwardly, and is further oriented to lie as flat as possible
15 aga~nst the Bl i~k. The next link in the B serie~, thë B3 link
. .. . : . - .
(not~shown~, will abut the solid portion of the A3 l~nk, having
its opening acin~ upwardly, and the 84 link will pass through
the A4 opening (12d) and have the opening (of B4) facing
downwardly.
~he series of B links will lie in this general plane, i.e.,
at generally right angles to ~he first IA~ series, and this type
of riqht angle movement as the chain is built up results in a
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spiral having the appearance of the double helix, as ~hown in
Figure 4.
~ In the ~ust-described build-~p of annular links lO, it is to
be noted that the openings of the first and third link additions
abut the prevlous first and third links, and the second and
f ourth l inks pass through the openings of the previous second and
fourth links. The openings of the previous second and f ourth
links were downwardly facing in the example shown in Figures
5a-5f, but could be differently oriented. ~owever, the relative
orientations of the links have, in the prior art, all been as
just described. Insofar as the operator is conce~ned, he or she
is always alternating an abutting connect$on ( e.g ., Bl abutting
to Al in the example) with the passing of a link through the
se~ond 1~ne~most hole o~ the link grouping (e.g., pa~sing the B2
link t~rough downwardly facing opening 12b of the A2 link).
.
After building up the i~nks lO in the manner ~ust described,
to form t~e double helix chain 20, thë 11nks are held in thë
de ired juxtapc~ition temporar~ly by thin metal wire 22 wrapped
about the links. Then solaer S is intermittently applied, e.g.,
to every pair of adjacent links lO at the external periphery
thereof. The wire 22 i$ then removed. The intermittent
soldering S ~e.g., A2 to A3, and A4 to Bl) results in a rope
chain whereln every link pair is slightly movable, with respect
to its adjacent link pairs, and results in a chain having the
desired flexibility for forming a necklace or bracelet.
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While the just descriked xope chain 20 of the prior art is
extrem~ly popular ~ecause of its apie#r:nce, it is co6tly to make, prLmarily
because it utilizes a great deal o~ precicus metal, such as 14 Carat gold.
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. DETAILED DESC~IPTION O~ T~E INVENTIQN
The annular link of thi~ invention is shown in Figures 7 and
7a and is deslgnated by~the numeral 50. The ratio of the inner
link dia~eter Di to the major wire diame~er (Dw) is in excess of
S :1~ This means that the wire 52 forming the annular loop 58 is
thinner than the prior art annulus ~Figures 1-3) and, as earlier
mentioned, yields substantial weight savings, as will be shown.
The annular link 50 is provided with an opening or gap 54, the
- opening 54 at its narrowest spacing 56 being just slightly larger
than the Dw of the wire 52.
.
In buildin~ the rope chain from the annular link of this
: invention, the bafiic series of units constitutes a serles of six,
eight, or more even number of links. Thus, with a 5~:1 ratio
(e.g., 5.4:1) of annulus inner diameter to Dw, the basic building
- series oE links S0 COhSiSt 0~ repetitions of five intertw~ned
-.15 links enveloped by the sixth; wlth a 7~:1 ratio (e.g., 7.7:1) of
annulus inner diameter to Dw, the basic building series consist
of.a repetition of seven intertwined links enveloped by an
eighth, and so onO The invention will be illustrated by an
. approximate 5.4:1 ratio of annulus inner diameter ~ Dw in
Figures 8a-8g.
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The first link 50 in the series of the invention is
designated El. The El link is initially oriented, manually, so
that its opening lies in a predetermlned direction, e.g., f~cing
upwardly, as shown in Figure 8a. The second ].ink of the series
E2 is passed thro~gh the opening 54a of the El link, and
positioned so that its opening 54b lies 180 removed from opening
54a. The El and E2 links are juxtaposed and intertwined so that
- they lay against each other with the periphery of the E2 link .
lying against the per~phery of the El link to the greatest extent
possible, thereby creating a relatively large central opening 60
within the pair of intertwined El, E2 links.
.
~ he opening 54c of the third link in the series, E3, is then
passed through t~e opening 54b of the E2 link and over the minor
diameter o~ ~he El link and laid angularly against the El and E2
links, ~he opening 54c of the E3 llnk lying in the ~ame orienta-
. . t~on as the open~ng 54a ~ ~he El l~nkj ~nd as shown in Flgure
8c.. A central opening 60a still lies within the intertwined El,
- .: .
E2 and E3.1inks. To thi~ point,~ the El, E2 and E3 links are
intertwined, as were the Al, A2 and A3 links of the prior art
(Figures 5a-5c). However, from this point forward, the invention
requires that an E4 link be added to the three-link assembly, the
E4 link being added by intertwining the E4 link with the other
three links so that it lays in angular relationship ~o the other
link~. The E4 link is oriented 60 that its opening 54d faces
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downwardly, as is the E2 linkO The E5 link continues the build-
. . . . . , . ,- .
up and ls intertwined, in the same fashion as described, with its
opening 54e in the same orientation as opening 54a of the El
link. The El-E5 links all lie in planes of about 15 removed
from each other. An E6 link is then passed through the central
opening 60a remaining in the El to E5 series ~Figure 8f), the
opening 54f facing downwardly. ~he E6 l ink is again about 15
angularly disposed with respect to the E5 link. The beginn.ing of
the spiral of the rope chain 100 will thus be seen to be formed.
. . .
The next series of links tThe F series) is then commenced.
The fLrst link of the series Fl has an opening 54g, which i8
passed around links E2-E6 until the opening 54g lies in abutment
with the bottom portion of link El, as shown in Figures 8g and 9.
~he angular rela~onship of the El link to ~he Fl link is abou~
lS 90, the space between the El and Fl links being occupied by the
five links e2-~6, a~gularly disposed with respect to each other,
as earller described.
.
The F2 link i8 then added by passing it through the third
iAnermost opening 54b of E2. The F2 link has the same
20 orientation as the E2 link, i.e., with its opening 54b facing
downwardly .
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Because of the 5+:1 ratio of the invention, the opera~or must
always pass the additional links through the third innermost
opening of the assembled link~, as just described, rather than
the second innermost hole, as in the prior art.
The angular relationship be~ween the links of the E series
~ E6) and the next series is best shown i~ Figures 11 and 12,
and note also Pigures ~g and 9 wherein the 90 relationship
between the El link and Fl link is al~o shown. In this way, the
rope chain 100 is built up in a continuing spiral fashion. And,
IO as the build-up of links in the F series continues, the F3-F6
links (not shownJ will be added as follows:
: . .`:'
. F3 - its opening will abut the lower portion of the E-3 link;
. . .. . .
F4 - will pass through ~he E4 l ink opening (54d) (the third
innermost openingJ;
~5 - its openin~ will abut the lower portion of the E4 link;
F6 - will pass through the E6 link opening ~54h).
The sequence of additional series o~ links will continue until
the desired length of rope chain ioo is attained.
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The rope chain 100 is then wrapped with thin wire (as shown
~n the Figure 4 prior art), and then pairs of links are
intermittently soldered at S, as in the prior art. By such
intermittent soldering, the rope chain remains unitary but
flexible -- to be curvilinearly shaped into necklaces, bracelets,
etc.
As an example of the weight saving over the prior art, the
following example i5 set forth:
Prior Art Chain~
Assume the prior art ratio of Di (inner diameter o~ link
annulus) to Dw (major wire diameter1 = 3.42 and D0 (outer
diameter of link ~nnulus) of prior art link 10 is 5.8 mm, and
t~e wire is of generally circular cross-section. Then:
D~ ~ 3.42, and
- Dw
Do~Di ~ 2DW, or
So8 - Di = 2DW, and substituting for Di
5~8 - 3.42 Dw = 2DW, or
5.8 = 5.42 Dw, and
5-8 ~w
5.42
1.07 mm = Dw, and
Di = 3.66 mm
: 15
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For every unit length of chain, 1, and density, d, per unit
length 1 -- the weight Wp of prior art chain is:
Wp = (~ ) - (D2i) dl
= dl ~ - (3.~6)
: Wp = 4.96 dl
The weight of the chain of this invention (~i) is calculated as
follows~
Assume a 5 . 43 ratlo of Di to Dw and that Dw is of generally
circular cross-section. Do is the same as before (5.8 mm),
and the Dw then equals 0.78 mm. Then Di = ~.24 mm.
' .
: ~ Wi ' ~ )2 _ (D~)2 dl
.
i 5-8 dl
~ D 3 96 x 100 = 79.8
:
Thus, the rope chain will be -79.8% of the weight of the prior
art chain for ~he same uni~ length and width ~5.8 mm).
` ' '
The labo~ will be greater in that about 37% more links will
have to be used, but if precious metal is uæed, e.g., 14 karat
; - gold for the rope chain, the net savings will still be about 14
to 17~ at the manufacturer level.
. 16
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The weight savings will be even greater ii- a 7+:1 ratio of
link inner diameter to wire diameter is employed as the basic
building unit of the rope chain. This calculates out to
approximately a 35% weight savings.
s It is to be emphasized that the manufacture of rope chain
has, for decades upon decades, been made on a slightly over 3:1
ratio ~e.g., 3.2-3.7:1) of Di to DWo To be able to achieve a
weight savings of 20% to 35%, or better, of precious metal, is
con~idered to be a breakthrough of great magnitude.
The invention has been illustrated as a right-hand weave,
i.e. the ~inished spiral p~ttern (shown in figure 10~ has the
predominant direction o the exposed spiral as seen by the viewer
; of Figure 10, ~oving from left to right, as viewed from the
bottom up. The opposite weave, a-left hand weave, is merely the
mirror ima~e of~the right hand weaYe~ ana utili2es the identical
~nnular llnk~ and method of manufactur2 except the link build up,
.: ' '
and resulting ~piralO proceeds from right to left, as vlewed from
the bottom up. See a section of finished rope chain 200, of left
hand weave, shown in ~igure 13.
~20 In summary, each of the annular links of our invention has an
inner annulus diameter of at least five time~ greater ~han the
major diameter of ~he wire forming the annulus. The wire may be
17
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12~ 7~:~
circular in cross-section or may be slightly flattened to form a.~
., . , .. j,., ~.
major and a minor diameter. The annular links are split t~ form
a gap sufficiently wide to permit passage of one link through the
gap of a like link. The ~ire is usually made of a preciou~ metal
s such as 14 carat gold, other gold alloy~ silver, or other
precious or other metal or material.
The preferred ratio of inner annulus link diameter to wire
major diameter ~s between about S:l to 5:5 and between about 7:1
to 7:6, although, theoretically, even h~gher basically odd
numbered ratios can be utilized, e.gO 9:1:1. When the 5:1 to 5:5
ratio ls employed, adjacent links are juxtaposed in about a 15 ~
angular relationship, and when tbe 7:1-7:6 ratio is employed, the
angular relationship is about 11 between immedia~ely adjacent
links.
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