Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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~IAIR WAVINC COMPOSITIONS
Diane Grob Schmidt
Robert Lee Wells
TECHNICAL FIELD
5This invention relates to permanent wave compositions. In
particular, the invention relates to an improved reducing composi-
tion for use in a permanent waving operation wherein good curl
retention is provided along with lowered skin irritation.
BACKGROUND OF THE I NVENTION
Hair waving is accomplished by altering disulfide crosslinks
of the hair while it is maintained in the desired configuration,
e.g., a curled position. The softening of the hair is a required
step in waving of hair. In the modern "cold wave", this
softening and subsequent rearrangement of the hair is achieved
15 by use of a reducing composition such as a mercaptanO The
mercaptan breaks the disulfide linkages presen~ in the keratin of
the hair. This reducing step may be done before hair has been
rolled onto perm rods, after such rolling or both. After
sufficient time has elapsed, the hair must be rehardened in the
20 new configuration. In the cold wave, this is achieved by use of
a neutralizer in an oxidation step which reforms the disulfide
bonds broken in the reducing step.
Most modern cold wave compositions have reducing composi-
tions based on thioglycolic acid. Such compositions were first
25 introduced in the 1940's. U.S. 2,S77,710, McDonough, issued
December 4, 1951; U.S. 2,577,711, McDonough, issued
December 4, 1951; U.S. 2,736,323, hlcDonough, issued
February 28, 1956; U.S. 2,889,833, McDonough, issued June 9,
_ _
1959, U . S . 2, 631, 965, Schnel I, issued March 17, 1953; and
30 U.S. 2,653,121, Schnell, issued September 22, 1953,
disclose various thioglycolate
reducing agents and methods for their use. Early compositions
required high pH's; i.e., up to 11 in order to provide effective
results. Ho~ever, such high pH's also frequently resulted in
35 substantial hair damage. Specific thioglycolate salts have been
disclosed as particularly effective or beneficial such as
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monoethanolamine thioglycolate in U.S. 3,157,758, Zviak et al,
issued November 12, 1964, and in French Patent 784,404,
Coustolle (1946) . These compositions are disclosed to be useable
at lower pHs, thus reducing hair and skin damage.
The effectiveness of thioglycolate-containing waving composi-
tions can be modified by adjustment of various factors including
pH, alkalinity, concentration of thioglycolates, addition of ac-
celerators and change in amount of time that the composition
remains on hair, Among the accelerators disclosed for use in
thioglycolate waving compositions are urea and alkyl ureas . U . S .
2,717,228, Brown, issued September 6, 1955,
states tllat urea accelerates the swelling o~ hair,
thus permitting a decrease in the level of thioglycolate necessary
to achieve curl retention, Brown employs levels of urea consider-
ably higher than the levels of thioglycolate empioyed (e.g., 5%
ammonium thioglycolate, 1296 urea). U.S. 3,399,682, Isaji, issued
September 3, 1968, discloses hair dye compositions comprising
thioglycolate and urea in varying ranges. U.~i. 3,396,736,
Stansky, issued August 13, 1968, likewise discloses hair dye and
wave/dye compositions employing urea as an accelerator . U . S .
3,880,174, Wajaroff, issued April 29, 1975 discloses 2-step wave
compositions with various accelerators.
Even with use of urea and other accelerators, thioglycolate
waving compositions have had problems achieving good curl reten-
tion without also increasing skin irritation and hair damage.
Factors affecting skin and hair damage include alkalinity, pH,
thioglycolate and/or urea levels. High levels of urea can also
result in overprocessing of hair caused by excessive swelling.
Applicant has now surprisingly discovered that a waving
composition with specific ranges of ammonium thioglycolate, urea,
and a specific alkalinity and pH range provides good curl
retention along with low skin irritancy.
It is an object of this invention to provide a permanent
waving composition for use in the home or salon which provides
good curl retention.
It is a further object of this invention to provide a perma-
nent waving composition which has low skin irritancy.
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it is a further object of this invention to provide a perma-
nent waving composition comprising urea.
It is a further object of the invention to provide composi-
tions which provide the proper amount of waving for the con-
sumer's hair type.
These and other objects will become apparent from the
following description of the invention.
As used herein, the following definitions are applicable
unless otherwise noted.
Permanent or permanent wave or wavin~3 composition or
reducing lotion are all synonymous terms as used herein and refer
to a reducing composition whiclh is applied to hair in order to
produce a permanently altered configuration, generally waves or
curls.
Neutralizer i5 an oxidizing composition applied to the hair to
reharden it after the reducing lotion, supra, is removed.
All percentages and ratios herein are by weight unless
otherwise noted.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Permanent waving compositions of the invention comprise
from about 5.5% to about 11.5% ammonium thioglycolate, from about
196 to about 3~ urea, a buffer concentration to provide a
composition normality of from about 0.05N to about 2N and water.
The pH of the compositions range from about 8.5 to about 9Ø
Detailed Description
The following describes the essential as well as the optional
ing redients .
Ammonium Thio~lycolate
Appiicant has surprisingly found that when used in composi-
tions within the invention, that ammonium thioglycolate gives a
faster and better curl and is less damaging to the hair than other
thioglycolate salts.
Compositions of the invention comprise from about 5 . 5% to
about 11.5% ammonium thioglycolate; different compositions can be
35 made to correspond to the various types of hair. The preferred
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method of formulation is to vary the amount of ammonium thiogly-
colate present in the composition. Hard to-wave, normal and
easy-to-wave versions may be created by adjusting such level.
For the hard-to-wave version, about 9% to about 11.5~ ammonium
thioglycolate is useful; for normai hair fro~ about 7~ to about 9~
ammonium thioglycolate is useful; and for easy-to-perm hair, from
about 5.5~ to about 7.5% ammonium thioglycolate is useful. The
optimum ranges of urea and of the pH of the compositions are not
varied with the version.
U rea
Compositions of the invention contain from about 1~ to about
3~ of urea or a iower monoalkyl urea, such as methyl urea or
ethyl urea.
Urea serves as a swelling agent for hair in order to facilitate
breakdown of the disulfide linkages in the keratin fibers of the
hair. This allows a lower percentage of ammonium thioglycolate to
be used. However, when used in higher amounts urea can cause
overprocessing and damage to hair as well as skin irritation and
burning .
Applicants have surprisingly found that use of from about 1~
to about 3% of urea along with the cited levels of thioglycolate
and specific pHs result in good curl ratention without an increase
in skin irritation or hair damage.
Water
Water is the last of the essential ingredients. Water is
present in amounts from about 50% to about 90~. Where the
composition is in the form of a lotion, water preferably comprises
from about 70~ to about 90~.
Buffers
The pH of the compositions of the invention is from about
8.5 to about 9.0, preferably from about 8.6 to about 8.9.
Applicant has discovered that when compositions of the
invention are used at the preferred pH, an effective curl is
obtained without skin irritation. Any alkali safe for use on the
hair or skin at the necessary levels may be used to regulate pH.
Preferred agents for regulating the pH of the invention inclucle
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ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, ammonium bicarbonate,
alkanolamines and mixtures thereof. Ammonium hydroxide,
ammonium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof are preferred.
Compositions within the invention comprise buffers to provide
final composition normality of from about 0.05N to about 2N,
preferably from about 0 . 5N to about 1 . 6N .
Optional Ingredients
In addition to the essentiai ingredients any of the conven-
tional nonessential ingredients may be used in compositions of the
invention such as emulsifiers, emollients, wetting agents such as
anionic or nonionic surfactants, conditioners, opacifiers, thick-
eners, preservatives, coloring agents, perfumes, and the like.
These optional materials when present are generally used singly
at a level of from about . 01~ to about 10%, preferably from about
0.5~ to about 5~ of the composition.
One preferred optional ingredient is an emulsifier. Useful
emulsifiers include soaps and anionic and nonionic synthetic
surfactants. Examples of such emulsifiers include polyethylene
oxide condensates of alkyl phenols, non-polar nonionics such as
laureth-2 laureth-4 and ceteath-2, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether
sulfates, and succinates.
Another preferred optional ingredient is a conditioner.
Preferred conditioners include cationic polymers such as
polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium-16.
Where the product is a foam or mousse or aerosol a propel-
lant phase may also be ~present. The propellant gas can be any
liquifiable gas conventionally used for aerosol containers.
Preferably the propellant or mixture of propellants, has a density
of less than 1 so that pure propellant is not emitted from the
container. Examples of suitable propellants include trichloro-
fluoromethane, dichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluromethane,
monochlorodifluoromethane, propane, trichlorotrifluromethane,
dimethylether, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. The
hydrocarbons are preferred for their densities. The amount of
propellant is from about 1~ to about 20~ of the composition.
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MET~IODS OF MANUFACTURE
The compositions of the invention may be made by any
conventional means in the art. See, e.g., ~lollenberg, I. R.,
Formulation of Cold Wave Preparations, Proc. Sci . Sec. TGA, 13: 9
(1950).
METHOD OF USE
Compositions of the invention may be used as either salon
permanents or home permanents. The compositions are especially
suited for home permanent use, and may be supplied in a "kit"
10 form with other necessary items such as neutralizing lotion, after
perm shampoos and conditioners, end wraps, perm rods, gloves
and the like.
Compositions of the invention may be applied to the hair
either prior to or subsequent to placing the hair in the desired
15 configuration (i.e., by rolling on permanent rods. ) The
compositions are left on the hair for up to about 35 minutes,
depending on the hair type and amount of curl desired. The
compositions are then rinsed from the hair.
Application of a neutralizing composition is essential in order
2Q to reharden the hair and stop the reducing process. The neu-
tralizing lotion is preferably in solution form and may be made
from suitable oxidizing agents such as peroxides, alkali metal
bromates, perborates, percarbonates, perpyrophosphates, and
perborosilicates. Hydrogen peroxide is especially preferred. The
25 hair is first rinsed to remove the majority of the thioglycolate
solution. The neutralizer is then applied and remains on the hair
for a period of time, preferably about 5 minutes, and the hair is
then rinsed prior to drying or styling.
The active ingredients may be applied to hair in any suitable
30 form. They may be lotions, creams, gels, foams, mousses,
aerosols, etc.
The following Examples are meant to be illustrations and not
as limitations on the invention as many variations thereof are
possible without departing from its spirit and scope.
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EXAM PLES
EXAMPLE I
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The following lotion compositions representative of the
present invention are made according to conventional processes.
Easy to Hard to
Perm Normal Perm
Ammonium thioglycolate8.469611.84~ 14.39
Ammonium hydroxide (29~) 1.02 1.43 1.73
Urea 2.00 2.00 2.00
Polyoxyethylene lauryiether 3.00 3.00 3.00
Luviquat 9051~ 1.25 1.25 1.25
Color 0.07 0.07 0.07
Perfume 1.50 1.50 1.50
DRO Water 82.70 78.91 76.06
100.00 100.00100.00
1 Luviquat 905- is a quaternary cationic conditioning agent sold by
BASF, Inc. PH of the compositions range from about 8.6 to
about 8.9.
EXAMPLE l l
The following is another lotion composition representative of
the invention.
Ingredients Level in Total Formula
Ammonium thioglycolate ~71%) 12.54
Ammonium hydroxide (29%~* 4.00
Ammonium bicarbonate 6.50
U rea 2.00
Conditioning ingredients 2.50
Perfume 1.50
Lmulsifier premix 3.00
Opacifier 0 05
Color 0 07
DRO water qs 100
100.00
* may be adjusted slightly so that the finished composition above
has a pH of about a. 9.
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EXAMPLE I H
The following are mousse or foam compositions representative
of the present invention:
Ea sy to
Aqueous Phase Perm Normal
Ammonium thioglycolate (71 %) 8 . 44~ 11 . 84
Ammonium hydroxide (29%) 1.05 1.48
Urea 2.00 2.00
Polyoxyethylene lauryl ether1.16 1.16
Luviquat FC 905~1 1.25 1,25
Sodium silicate 0.03 0.03
Water 75.51 71.68
Propellant phase
Perfume 1 . 66 1 . 66
Isopropyl myristate 5.15 5.15
Hydrofluorocarbon 3 . 75 3. 75
1 00% 1 00~
1 Luviquat 905 is a quaternary cationic conditioning agent sold by
20 BASF, Inc.
Water is placed in the mixing tank. The ammonium thiogly
colate, ammonium hydroxide and ammonium bicarbonate are added
at room temperature, mixing well after each is added. The urea
is then mixed and followed by the conditioning ingredients and
25 emulsifiers. The perfume, isopropyl myristate and propellant are
added immediately before packing. The finished compositions
have pH's of from about 8.6 to about 8.9.
EXAMPLE IV
The following is another representative foam composition of
the invention.
Ingredients Level in Total Formula
Aqueous Phase:
Ammonium thioglycolate (71%) 12.54
Ammonium hydroxide ~29~)4.00
Ammonium bicarbonate 6 . 50
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U rea 2 . 00
Conditioning ingredients2 . 50
Emulsifier 3 .
DRO water 59.15%
Propellant Phase:
Perfume 1 . 60
I sopropyl myristate 4 . 96
Propellant 3 . 75
100.00
t 0 EXAMPLE V
Hair Dama~e Test
The methylene blue test is designed to measure the amount
of methylene blue dye absorbed by the hair after a given treat-
ment. The more damaged the hair is, e.g., by chemical treat-
l S ments, the more subs~antive the dye is to it. Damage can ~
therefore, be determined by measuring the amount of dye which
the hair absorbs. The amount of residual dye in the solution is
measured after the hairs have been soaked and have been
removed. The dye concentration is then easily measured on the
spectrophotometer.
A stock 1~ methylene blue solution is prepared by weighing
one gram of methylene blue powder on a 4 place balance and one
gram of Tween 80~, a surfactant (to aid wetting of the hair).
One thousand ml of water, measured in a graduated cylinder, is
added to the dye/surfactant. The stock solution is then diluted
~or use as follows: sodium tetraborate decahydrate - 3.81 grams,
methyl blue .1~ stock solution - 10.0 grams, distilled water q.s.
to 1000 ml. A standard curve for the dye solution is obtained by
preparing several different concentration levels, obtaining a scan
reading between 6001l 70OIJ for each and plotting peak absorb-
ance versus concentration (mgll ) . The slope was then used in
calculating the concentration of the dye solution after soaking the
hairs .
The hair damage data appear in the table below under the
heading of hair damage. Larger numbers indicate more absorption
of dye, and thus more damaged hair. Formula 1 is representative
of this invention.
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Swe!ling Test
Virgin blond hair is soaked for 24 hours in an iodine solu-
tion then removed and rinsed. The dry diameter is measured
under a microscope at 400x magnification. The hair is then
5 treated with waving lotion, and a final diameter determina~ion is
made under the microscope. Again, formula 1 is within the
invention. Each figure represents the average of three repli-
cations .
Hair
Damage Swelling
(at 100~ penetration)
Formula 1
(ammonium thioglycolate - 7.5%
urea 2~, pH 8.5) 2.11 24.5
Formu la 2
(ammonium thioglycolate - 7.596
urea 4~, pH 8.5) 2 . 38 54 . 4%
Formula 3
lammonium thioglycolate - 7 . 5%
urea 2~, pH 9.3) 2.76 31.7%
Formula 4
(ammonium thioglycolate - 7 .5%
urea 4~, pH 9.3~ 3.02 52.0~
As can be seen from the data, the composition within the
scope of the invention (formula 1 ) provided the least amount of
hair damage, and swelling.
WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:
