Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
1323816 8~
A. Field of Invention
This invention relates broadly to an improved permancnt hair waving or
curling process and the composition used therein.
5 B. Prior Art
Among the eomponents of hair is a proteinaeeous material called ~keratin~.
The hair's keratin is made up of lon8 fibrous polypeptide chains which are bonded
together with horizontal cross bonds of two forms: hydrogen bonds and cystine
bonds, also sometimes referred to as disul~ide bonds.
10Cystine bond~ play sn essential role in determining the de8ree of curl in
hair. Some researehers in the field believe that straight or slightly wavy hair has
relatively fewer eystine bonds and relies heavily upon hydrogen bonding to
produee cùrl or waves in the hair and that very eurly hair has a relatively larger
amount of eystine bonds. Other researchers in the field believe that straight hair
IS and curly hair may have the same number of cystine bonds, but that the cystine
bonds present in strai8ht hair tend to occur in a relatively straight alignment,
whereas the cystine bonds present in curly hair tend to occur out of alignment.
Regardless of whieh theory is aeeepted, while the hydrogen bonds can be broken
merely by wetting the ha;r, such that stra;ght or slightly wavy hair will lose
20 virtuslly all body when wet, very curly hair mainta;ns its body even when wet
beeause the eystine bonds are relat;vely unaffected by water. Thus, very curly
hair cannot be easily reset into new or d;fferent hair styles different from its
natural state merely by wett;ng and shap;ng the hair.
Permanent hair waviDg is usually carried out by subjecting the hair to a
25 strong reducing agent, sueh as hydro~ide or, more commonly, materials containing
a free "-- SH" group or thiol. These "thiol" materials are also called mercaptans.
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1323816
In this treatment, the hair is saturated with tho thiol agent, which then aets to
break the disulfide bonds.
When a suffieient number of hair disulfide bonds have been broken, the hair
is rinsed, removing the unreacted thiol wavin~ agont and disulfide reaction
5 product. The hair is then reali~ned, ~-L, usually by winding on rollers, in order
to physieally align previously unpaired hair protein thiol ~roups, L~,, one-half Or
the eystine groups, The hair and rollers are then saturated with an oxidizing
agent, or neutralizer, sueh as hydrogen peroxide or a bromate salt, to reform
disulfide bonds between the newly paired hair protein thiols and to give the hair
10 a eonfiguration or wave, This general proeess may be used to either add eurl or
straighten the hair.
Salts of thioglycolie aeid, such as ammonium thioglycolate, and thioglycolie
acid esters, such as glycerol mono thioglycolate, are typically utilized as the thiol
waving a8ent. Other thiol-eontaining reagents sueh as thiolaetie aeid, beta-
15 mereaptopropionie aeid, beta-mereaptobutyrie aeid, mereaptosuccinic acid and alike
have been suggested in the art to be effeetive.
Prior art waving processes are plagued with the problem of either
uDderwaving or overwaving (under or over processing) that occurs during waving
on different parts of a single hair fiber or difîerent areas of the hair mass due
20 to the physieal or ehernieal condition of the hair itself. For e~cample, hair which
has been waved, or bleached, or both is more porous than hair which has not
undergone these ehemical treatments, ~L these portions of the hair fiber near
the hair root whieh has grown out since the last bleaehing or waving. Similarly,
even hair having no previous history of bleaching or waving is more porous near
2S the tip end than near the root end simply because hair near the tip has been
brushed more, or has been subjected to more weathering.
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1323816
As a consequence of these porosity difforences, the hair tends to take up
more waving agent in some areas and Icss waving agent in others. Over waving
or processing tends to occur in the more porou5 portions of the hair while
underwaving or processing tends to occur in less porous areas. Th~se trends are
5 exactly the inverse of what is desired s;nce the hair which usually needs the
waving treatment the most gets the least waving, and visa versa.
Many products today are directed to the special problems and needs of the
81àck ethnic market. People in the Black ethnic market have, for example, hair
characterized by a relatively lar8e number of cystine bonds and relatively high
10 dryness. Conventional permanent wavin~ products have particular limitations
applied to this market. Typically, the products result in a hair style that is
either very curly and quite greasy or relatively straight and stiff and very dry.
Theso prior products are characterized by the need for frequent, heavy
maintenance, ~.L. the consumer's application of activators and moisturizers on a
15 daily basis or more than daily basis. None of the prior art compounds are able to
produce a Black ethnic hairstyle characterized by thick, f ull-bodied hair f ibers
which form loose bouncy curls having good moisture retention.
Another problem that occurs during the hair disulfide bond breaking process
is skin irritation caused by the thiol-containing agents. Irritation occurs usually
20 because beauticians frequently use their bare fingers for the wrapping process.
U.S. Patent No. 4,391,286 (Hsiung et al.) and relatod U.S. Patent No.
4,572,220 (Hsiung et al.) both disclose hair conditioning formulations that claim to
overcome ~ome of the problems just described. The '286 patent teaches a
composition of water having dissolved therein a quaternary nitrogen containing
25 polymet and a water-soluble, disulfide-containing polycarbo~cylic acid or salt. The
'220 patent teaches the same composition as the '286 patent with the addition of
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1323816
a thiol-eontaining waving Bgent~ The preferret disulride-eontaining polycarbo~ylie
aeids are formed by the oxidation of two moleeules Or mercapto-monocarbo~ylic
aeid. E~amples of those eompounds inelude dithiodi81ycolic acid, three-
dithiodipropionie aeid~ eystine, dithiodilaetie aeid, dithiodisuee;nie aeid and the
S like. The preferred quaternary nitrOgeD eontaining polymer is a cationie guar
where a ehloride anion i9 usually associsted with the polymer. The cationie guar
is distinguished from other forms or derivatives of guar 8um, sueh as nonionie
guar whieh does not eontain quaternary nitrogen compounds. Poth formulations
disclosed in these two patents are specifically designed and reeommended for use
10 on the hair after shampooing and prior to a waving proeess (i.e., pre-wrap
solutions).
Another hair eonditioning formulation is disclosed in U.S. Patent No.
4,S88,760 (Jachowiez et al.). This formulation for deereasing hair hygroseopieity
and improving settability comprises an aqueous solution of he~timinium salt and
15 resorcinol. To faeilitate applieation of this eonditioning formulation, it is
diselosed that a eosmetieally aeeeptable thickener, sueh as guar gum, may be
incorporated into the formulation.
All of the known waving processes and solutions assoeiated therewith are
limited in their fle~ibility to produce a looser, bouncier, curl while maintaining
20 the moisture of the eurls. The present invention provides an improved in hair
waving proeess, eliminating many of the problems associated with prior art
proeesses and solutions.
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i323816
~klkl~ OF TH~l~vENTlQ~
Thus, an objeet of tho present invention is to provide an improved hair
waving proeess and further to provide an improved wrapping lotion composition
for use in a hair waving process~
It is an object of this invention to provide a pormanent waving process and
wrapping lotion that produees a soft~r, bouneier curl with an overall open/looser
pattern and that requires less maintenance to maintain the integrity of the curl.
A further object of the invention is to provide for improvements in
straightness and versatility without dry frizzing of the hair.
A further objoct is to provide for a reduetion in overall proeessing time,
less irritation, less odor, and a reduction in the dan8er of overproeessing.
A still further objeet is to provide a waving proeess that imports more
body, sheen and manageability to the hair with improved eurl retention.
Aeeordingly, in a broad embodiment, the present invention is a process of
waving hair by applying to the hair a rearranging eomposition with ehemieal
properties suffieient to ehange the eystine bonds in the hair keratin . to
lanthionine bonds. The rearran8in8 composition comprises a homogenous mixture
of a salt of thioglyeolie aeid and a homopolymer of
methylaerylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium ehloride. After the rearranger has
been Ieft`on the hair for a time to accomplish conversion of the bonds, the hairis rinsed to flush away a substantial portion of the rearrangin~ composition.
A wrapping lotion composition is then applied to the hair. The wrapping
lotion comprises a homogeneous mi~ture of a salt of thio81ycolic acid and a guarcomponent. The hair, with wrapping lotion applied is wrapped around a rod or
roller to produce a desired curl pattern. The hair with wrappin~ lotion applied is
Ieft on the rods for a predetermined Iength of time, preferably about 5 to about
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1323816
IS minutes, in order to set or lock in the desired curl pattern. The wrapped hair
is rinsed to flush away only excess wrapping lotion compo~ition.
After rinsing, a neutralizer composition is applied to thc hsir, still on the
rods, to lock in the curl psttern. The neutralizcr is left on thc hair for a
5 sufficient period Or time to reostablish the cyst;ne bonds, after which the
neutralizer is flushed away by rinsing the hair.
The improved rearran8er comprises a salt of thioglycolatic acid and bctwccn
about 1.0 and about 3.0% by weight of a cationic homopolymer of
methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride. In prcferred form the
rearran8er also includes botween about 6.0 ant about 10.0% by weight of
ammonium thioglycolate, between about 3.0 and about 7.0h by weight of
monoethanolamine thioglycolate. Also, in preferred form, the rearranger has a pH
of between about 8.0 and about IO.S.
The improved wrapping lotion comprises between about 0.8 and about 2.59~
IS by weight of a guar component, preferably nonionic guar gum and between about
0.3 and about 7.0% by weight of a salt of thioglycolic acid, preferably ammonium
thioglycolate. In preferred form the wrapping lotion has a pH of between about
7.0 and about IO.S and a viscosity of between about 1,800 to 2,200 cps.
These as well as other objects and embodiments will become apparent upon
20 review of the more detailed description of the ir vention hereinaftcr set forth.
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~323816
DETAI~I) J~pTION OF THE INVENTION
The waving process of the instant invention is comprised of several steps,
some of whieh involve the application of specific hair treatment formulations. As
a first step, a rearranging eomposition is applied to the hair to perform a
5 straighten;ng function. The rearranging composition conta;ns an aqueous solution
of chemical agents capable of reducing the disulfide linkages in hair keratin.
Suitable chemical a~ents inelude water soluble mereaptans, e.8. salts of
thioglycolie aeid, sueh as, sodium, monoethanolamine, or ammonium thioglycolate,
and magnesium thio81yeolate. Other sources of mereaptans include thio~lycerol,
10 sodium or potassium borohydride, and sodium or ammonium ~ulfite. The amount of
these chemieal agents may vary depending on, among other things, the degree of
straightening desired, hair treatment history, and the ehemieal nature of the
partieular hair to be treated.
A preferred rearranging composition comprise~ a mixture of ammonium
15 thioglycolate and monoethanolamine thioglycolate (MEA-Thio). However, it is
within the scope of the invention that either thioglyeolate compound may be used
alone or as a substitute for the other. When a mi~ture of the two is used the
ammonium thioglycolate is preferably present in eoneentration ran8es of about 6.0
to about 10.0% by weight, and about 3.0 to about 7.0% by weight of the total
20 rearranging eompo~ition. The MEA-Thio is preferably present in eoneentrations of
about a most preferred rearran8in8 eomposition comprises about 8.0% by weight of
amrnonium thioglycolate and about 5.5% by weight MEA thio. Alternatively, the
rearrangin~ eomposition may be charaeterized by the weight ratio of ammonium
thioglycolate to MEA-Thio. A preferred ratio is between about 4:6 and about 7:3
25 ammonium thioglycolate to MEA-Thio, with a most preferred ratio of 6:4. When
only one salt of the thioglyeolie aeid is used, the preferred concentration is
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1323816
betwcen about S.0 and 209~ by weight. Additionally, a varicty of conventional
additives may be present in thc rearranging composition, such as, conditioners
perfumes, emollients, etc. The pH of thc composition i5 adjusted to between 8.0
and IO.S, preferably using ammonium hydroxide.
S Surprisingly and unexpectedly it has been found that the addition Or a
polyquaternary amine salt to the rearranging composition has a si8nificant affect
on the quality and settability of the hair both during and lon~ after the wavingprocess. The preferrcd polyquaternary amine salt is a highly char8e cationic
homopolymer of methacrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride (MAPTAC). A
preferred concentration of MAPTAC is from between about 1.0 to about 3.0% by
weight of the rearranging composition, with a most preî erred concentration of
about 2.0% by weight. The average molecular weight of the MAPTAC
homopolymer ran~es from about 100,000 to about 200,000.
Although not completely understood it is believed that the MAPTAC
increases the longevity of the curl pattern and the humectant qualities of the hair
by penetrating into the pore of the hair. When the neutralizcr solution is applied
the polymer is bclieved to become ~locked" into the hair. The increased integrity
of the hair and the curl pattern that results from the application of MAPTAC
greatly reduces the need for maintenancc betwcen subscquent waving trcatments.
Additionally, a variety of conventional additives may be present in the
rearranging composition, such as, conditioners, perfumes, moisturizers, emollients,
etc. The pH of thc composition is adjusted to between 8.0 and IO.S using,
preferably, ammonium bydro~ide.
The rearranging composition is initially applied to the head and worked into
2S the hair with gentle massage. The rearranging composition is allowed to stand,
on the hair for about S I S or 20 minutes while the cystine bonds are bein8
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` ` 1323816
broken down to lanthonine bonds, thc length of timo the rearrsnger is allowed to
stand depends upon the degroe of curl in the hair's natural state and the degree
of straightness desired.
After the hair hss straightencd to the desired degree, the hair is rinsed,
5 preferably with warm water for about 3-5 minutet to flush away the major
portion, preferably all, of the rearranging composition. In this way, the
rearranging composition and the wrapping lotion composition are not applied to
the hair at the same time.
After the hair has been rinsed, a wrapping lotion is applied to the head and
10 gently massa~ed into the hair. The hair ;s then wrapped on rods, curlers, rollers
or any other means known to the art to produce or establish a desired curl
pattern. The wrapped hair containin8 the wrapping lotion is allowed to stand for
a period of about 5-lS minutos, while the pattern of the curl becomos set.
The wrapping lotion of the invention is a homogeneous mi~ture including a
15 salt of thioglycolic acid and a guar component. The wrapping lotion is
specifically formulated to reduce the possibility of o~idation of the hair that may
occur due to air exposure. Thus, the wrapping lotion includes a reducing
compound, as does the rearranger, but the reducing compound in the wrapping
lotion is present in lower concentrations then in the rearranger. O~idation is
20 undesirable becauso it has the tendency to reverse the rela~ing process which
resulted from contact with the rearranging composition, and, thus, reform the
cystine bonds prematurely.
The preferred salt of thioglycolic acid used in thc wrapping lotion is
ammonium thioglycolate. A preferred concentration range of the ammonium
25 thioglycolate is between about 0.3 and 7.0% by weight of the total wrapping lotion
composition, with a most preferred concentratlon of about 2~ by weight. It is
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1323816
also within the scope of the invention that the wrapping lotion do~s not conta;n
any apprec;able amount of salt of thioglycolic acid, although some level Or
reducing agent is preferable as noted.
The 8uar component of the wrapping lotion is obtained from guar gum, also
S known as guar flower. Ouar 8um is a commorcially availablc water soluble plant
mucilage consisting of linear chains of galactose and manose molecules~ A
preferred source of guar is nonionic ~uar, most preferably a highly substituted
hydro~cypropylated guar gum.
Guar gum is a recognized thickonin~ agent in systems that wero not
10 cbemically active. However, it has now been discovered that guar gum can be
used in a chemically active system, L~.. a ~ystem conta;ning substantial amounts
of active thioglycolates. Moreover, it has been discovered that the presence of
the guar component in this wrapping solution si8nificantly increases the volume
and body of the hair as a result of the waving process. The curl pattern that
15 results from the waving process is an overall more open/looser and bouncier
pattern than was previously possiblc with prior art waving processes. Although
the mechanism of the invention is not completely understood, it is believed that
the use of a 8uar component in thc wrapping lotion composition is directly
attributable to producing the desited sof ter, bouncier more versatile curls. The
20 guar component penetrates the hair where it is believed that the guar influences
the reformation of the cy!~ine bonds in the hair, so that when the neutralizer is
applied the desired curl pattern is achieved. These advantages of using guar gum
wcre unforeseen. A preferred concentration of the guar componcnt in the
wrapping lotion is from about 0.2 to about 2.5% by weight of the total
25 composition, with a most preferred concentration of about 0.8% by weight.
-- 10 -- -
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` 1323816
In addition to thc above componcnts, thc wrapping lotion composition may
also contain other ingred;entS well known to the art, such as, emollients,
conditioners, perfume, surfactants, moisturizers, etc~ The wrapping lotion
composition may be preparcd by any suitable procedure known to the art~ A
S preferred procedure involves first dissolvin~ thc guar component into water that
is at or below ambient temperature. The water~guar solution is then heated to
about 70. Any additional ingredients are then addcd and the resulting mi~ture is
cooled to about S0F~ Lastly, the salt of thio~lycolic acid is added, if any, with
an amount of ammonium hydro~ide to adjust the pH of the final wrapping lotion
composition to bctween about 7~0 to about 10~5, most preferably 9~0 to about 9~6.
The resultant wrappin~ lotion composition has a 8el consistency, with a viscosity
ran~e from about S00 cps to about 12,000 cps, most preferably from about 1,800
to about 2,200 cps.
After the wrapping lotion has been allowed to stand on the wrapped hair
15 for a period of about S to about IS minutes, the wrapped hair is then rinsed with
warm water to remove any e~cess wrapping lotion compositiom
After rinsing, a neutralizer is applied to the wrapped hair to restore the
disulfide linkages in the hair keratin. The neutralizer "locks in~ the curl pattern
that was formed in the previous steps of the waving process. The e1~act
20 composition of the neutralizer is not believed critical to achieve the improved
results obtained by thc waving process of the invention. As known to the art,
neutralizers are typically aqueous solutions containing o~idizing agents, such as,
sodium bromate. Other ingredients may be added to the neutralizcr composition
to improve the aesthetic properties of the hair~ In particular, it has been found
that the addition of from about 1~0 to about 5.09~ by weight of etho~ylated castor
oil greatly improves the sheen quality of the hair~
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-` 1323816
61368-825
After application of the noutralizer, the wrapped hair is then rinsed with warm water
to remove a substantial portion, prefcrably all, of the neutralizer composition. The rods are
then removed and the hair is again rinsed with water. As an optional post-treatment step a
sealer may be applied to the hair to clevate the initial dryness that sometimes results
~, immediately after the hair has undergone a waving process. Well known to the art, sealers
contain conditioners and humectants.
The present invention therefore includes a multi-step process for waving the hair. The
first step of the process is applying a rearranging composition to the hair. This rearranging
composition comprises a homogeneous mixture of a salt of a thioglycolic acid and a cationic
10 homopolymer of MAPTAC. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the rearranging
composition includes between about 6% and 10% by weight ammonium thioglycolate, between
about 5% and 79~ by weight monoethanolamine thioglycolate, and between about 1% to 3% by
weight of the cationic homopolymer of MAPTAC.
After the rearranging composition has been applied for a sufficient amount of time, the
15 hair is rinsed to remove the composition. The wrapping lotion is then applied to the hair. The
wrapping lotion preferably comprises a homogeneous mixture which includes a salt of a
thioglycolic acid and a guar component. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the guar
component is a nonionic hydroxypropylated guar and is betwecn about 0.2% and 2.5% by weight
of the wrapping lotion, and the thioglycolic salt is ammonium thioglycolate and comprises
20 about 0.3% to 79b by weight of the wrapping lotion.
Subsequent to the application of the wrapping lotion, the hair is wrapped about a rod
to produce the desired curl pattern. Once the hair has been on the rod for sufficient time to
allow the curl pattern to set, the hair wrapped around the rod is rinsed. Subsequent to rinsing
a neutralizer component is added to lock in the curl pattern. This neutralizing component is
25 then rinsed from the hair, leaving a thicker, fuller hair with loose, bouncy curls.
" 1323816
61368-82S
In order to morc rully dcmonstrate the attcndant ndvantages arising from thc present
invention, the following examples are set forth. It is to be understood that the following is by
way of example of only and is not intended as an undue limitation on the otherwise broad
scope of the invention.
EXAMP~E I
A waving process in accordance with the invention was performed using both an
improved rearranging composition and an improved wrapping lotion. The first step in the
process involved pre-shampooin8 the head with a suitable conditioning shampoo. The hair was
10 ~ then towel blotted dry. The improved rearranging composition was then applied to the hair by
a tint-brush procedure in an effect to minimize scalp irritation. The rearran8er used comprised
a homogenous mixture of a homopolymer of MAPTAC and MEA thio81ycolate. Table I lists the
relative weight fractions of the rearranger components. The rearran8er was allowed to stand
on the hair for about 10 to 15 minutes until straight.
After the processing with the rearranger was completed the hair was rinsed thoroughly
for about 3 to 5 minutes with warm water, then towel blotted dry. The improved wrapping
lotion composition of the invention was then applied in 1/4 head sections. The wrapping lotion
comprised a homogenous mixture of ammonium thioglycolate and nonionic guar. Table II lists
thc relativc weight fractions of the components for the improved rearranger. The hair in each
20 1/4 section was then wrapped on rods to produce a curl pattern. After rodding, the wrapping
lotion was allowed to stand on the hair for about 10 minutes.
The hair with the rods intact was then rinsed thoroughly with warm water and then
towel blotted dry.
A conventional neutralizer solution having sodium bromate as the active ingredient was
25 then applied sparingly to each rodded portion of hair and allowed to stand for about 10
minutes under a plastic wrap. After processing with the neutralizer, the rodded hair was then
1323816
6 1 3 6 8 - 8 2 5
rinsed woll with warm watcr for about 3 to 5 minutes to substantially rcmove the neutralizer.
The hair was then unrodded, rinsed again, and dried under a conventional hair dryer.
The resultant hair style obtained from the waving process of the instant invention was
characterized as having a looser, bouncier, more open pattern of curls then hair styles
previously possible using prior art waving process. The hair resulting from this Example I was
characterized as having thicker, more full bodied hair than results from prior art waving
processes. In addition, the longevity of the curl pattern produced and the humectant quality
of the hair was incre,ased on a relatively long term basis with substantially lower need for
application of maintenance products. The softer, bouncier curls obtained as a result of the
10 instant process is believed directly attributable to the use of the improved wrapping lotion
composition, containing the 8uar component.
EXAMPLE 11
For the purposes of comparison to the improved waving process of the invention as
15 described in Example 1, a conventional prior art waving process was performed. The procedure
use for the conventional waving process was identical to that of the waving process of Example
I with the e~cception that the wrapping lotion used did not contain a guar component, and the
rearranger did not contain a homopolymer of MAPTAC. Also, ammonium thioglycolate was
substituted for MEA thioglycolate. The wrapping lotion and rearranger formulations detailed
20 in Tables I and 11.
The resultant hair style obtained from the conventional waving process was
characterizcd as relatively tightly curled, dry, and frizzy in appearance. Furthermore, this
style required thc application of maintenance products, such as, moisturizers and curl
activators. These maintenance products cause an overall greasy look of the hair style.
` 1323816
k I Ex~mele II
I:~eionized H,O 59.7 59.6
MAPTAC 2.0 --
Ammonium Thioglycolate 8.010.0
MEA Thioglycolate5.S -
Other Ingredientsl 24.8 30-4
Cond;tioners, surfactants, pH adjusters, mo;sturjzers and fragrance.
TABLE II
0 l~t3~D~
Deionized H,O 92.6 92.6
Ammonium 2.0 2.0
Thioglycolate
(609~ solution)
Nonionic Guar 0.75 ---
Other ingredientsbalance balance
pH 9.1 9.3 9.1 9.3
Viscosity, cps1,800 2,200 1,200 - 1,600
Appearance gel/lotion lotion
The foregoing e~amples and spccification disclose prcferred and generalized
illustrations of the invention. However, variations are possible within the scope
of the invention. For e~ample, the wavc wrapping lotion of this invention is
believed to provide advantages when used with any rearran8er or neutralizer. It
should be understood, therefore, tha~ the invention is to bc limited only by thefollowing claims and their equivalcnts.
-- 15 --
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