Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
-
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IIASHIII9~011, D.C 202JI~
James J. NaPoli~
l~F~D qlDUrr~D RA~IC t~ I~Dq ~111 UO ~ l~
l~aA-U~E OF ~1~501~ lUIIû rArl~ o~ r~E)
~LEAR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION AND METHOD
TO IMPA~T IMPXOVED PROPERTIES TO THE HAIR
F}ELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a clear
hair-treating composition and to a method of treating
hair that unexpectedly imparts improved conditioning
properties to hair. More particularly, the present
invention is directed to a clear hair-treating compo
sition comprising from about 0.5~ to about 5% by weight
of a quaternary ammonium compound, such as dicetyl-
dimonium chloride; from abDut 0.1~ to about 5% by
weight of an amidoamine compound having the general
structural formula (I) or (II):
O R3
Rl-C-NH-R2-N-R4 Rl-C-N~-R2 Y~
(I) (II)
wherein Rl i~ a fatty acid chain containing frQm about
11 to about 21 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group
containing fram two to about four carbon atsms, R3 is
hydroqen, methyl, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group
containin~ from one to about three carbon atoms, R4
is methyl, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group containing
from one to about three carbon atoms, and Y is a
heterocyclic nitrogen-containing moiety, like morpho-
line or pyridine; from about 0.5% to about 5~ by weightof a volatile conditioning agent, such as a volatile
hydrocarbon compound or a volatile silicone compound,
8~
like cyclomethicone; from about 1% to about 10~ by
weight of a solubilizing nonionic surfactant, like
lauryl pyrrolidone; and from abo~lt 10% to about 30%
by weight of a polyhydric compound, such as a glycol,
triol, or polyol, like hexylene glycol; and wherein
the weight ratio of solubilizing nonionic surfactant
to volatile conditioning agent in the composition
ranges from about 1 to 1 to about 10 to 1. The clear
composition of the present invention can be applied
to the hair from an aqueous solution or spray, a con-
ditioner formulation, a hair color and/or other similar
hair treatment products, over a pH range of fro~ about
4 to about 7, to improve both the wet stage and the
dry stage properties of the hair.
BACKGROUND OF TE3E INVENT I ON
Most individuals buy and use a hair shampoo
for its cleansing properties. In addition to having
clean hair, the consumer also desires sufficiently-
conditioned hair that hold~ a preset configuration.
However, hair shampoos generally are formulated with
highly effective synthetic surfactants, like anionic
surfactants, that primarily clean as opposed to con-
ditioning the hair. Therefore, shampoos usually
neither aid in the detangling of wet hair nor impart
any residual conditioning benefits to dry hair, such
as manageability or styleability of hair sets.
Consequently, the hair normally is let in
a cosmetically-unsatisfactory state after washing
with an anionic surfactant-based hair shampoo. Anionic
surfactants not only remove the dirt and soil from
the hair, but also remove essentially all of the sebum
naturally present on the surface of the hair fibers.
Therefore, it was found that the desirable properties
of anionic surfactants that effectively clean the
hair also ser~e to leave the hair in a cosmetically-
unsatisfactory condition. In general, hair shampoo
compositions containing anionic surfactants, or non-
2~
ionic surfactants or amphoteric surfactants, leave
the hair with an undesirable harsh, dull and dry touch,
or feel, usually called "creak~, after the hair is
shampooed and then rinsed with water.
Furthermore, thoroughly cleansed hair also
is extremely difficult to comb, in either the wet or
the dry state, because the individual hair fibers
tend to snarl, kink, and interlock with each other.
In addition, incompletely dried hair, such as hair
dried with a towel, has poor brushing properties, andafter complete drying, the hair does not set well.
Furthermore, the combing or brushing property of the
hair remains poor, and the hair has undesirable elec-
trostatic properties in a low humidity atmosphere
that causes the hair to ~fly away~, thereby further
reducing the brushing properties of the hair. The
unsatisfactory combing or brushing property of hair
immediately after shampooingl or during trimming treat-
ments after shampooing, also causes hair damage, such
as split ends or hair breakage. In addition, the
natural luster and resiliency of the hair is reduced.
Consequently, the overall unsatisfactory condition of
the shampooed hair usually necessitates a subseguent
post-shampoo treatment of the hair with a special
conditioning composition to improve these undesirable
physical characteristics. These conditioning composi-
tions normally are applied separately frcm the hair
shampoo, and usually are rinses or cream-like emulsions
or lotions containing a cationic compound.
Therefore, consumer needs traditionally
have been met by the application of a shampoo to
cleanse the hair, followed by the application of a
conditioner composition to improve wet combing. The
commonly accepted method has been to shampoo the hair,
followed by rinsing the hair, and then separately
applying a conditioner composition, followed by a
second rinse. As previously discussed, freshly sham-
2`~ e9
pooed hair is inclined to knot and tangle, and there-
fore is difficult to comb and difficult to manage.
The wet combing problem has been solved by treating
shampo~ed hair with a conditioner composition that
coats the hair shaft and causes the individual hair
shafts in a tress to resist tan~lin~ and matting be-
cause of the conditioner residue retained on the shaft.
However, the need for improved compositions
that condition the hair~ i.e., renders the hair more
manageable, has long been recognized in the art. As
previously discussed, it is well-known that anionic
surfactants are suitable for hair shampooing, and
that cationic compounds, like cationic surfactants
and cationic polymers, are useful as hair conditioners.
Therefore, cationic compounds that are substantive to
hair usually are used to complete the hair cleansing
and hair conditioning cycle.
The ability of cationic compo~nds to adsorb
or react with the keratinous material of the hair
makes them the most desirable compounds Eor imparting
the desired improvement in wet hair detangling and
dry hair manageability. However, hair conditioning
compositions including cationic compounds that adsorb
particularly strongly to the hair also can reduce the
elasticity, body and set of the dried hair. There-
fore, although conditioning compositions for applica-
tion to freshly shampooed hair are well known, new
and improved conditioning formulations based on
cationic compounds are continually sought. For example,
the majority of present-day, commercial hair-conditioner
compositions are emulsion-type products that leave
too great of a conditioning-compound residue on the
hair. Consequently, the present invention is directed
to a new, non-emulsified, clear hair-conditioning
composition comprising a combination of suitable hair-
S conditioning ingredients that is esthetically accept-
able to consumers, improves the wet combing and dry
2 ~ 9
combing properties of hair, and also leaves the dry
hair with satisfa~tory cosmetic properties and physical
properties, including, in particular, dry combing and
feel, less hair coating, manageability, body, condition
of the ends and set.
Hair conditioning compositions, such as
emulsion-type creme rinses, are well known in the art
for improving the combing properties of wet hair and
dry hair. These condi~ioning compositions typically
are aqueous emulsions including a cationic compound,
like a ~uaternary ammonium com~ound, as the prinoipal
conditioning agent. The prior art describes the quater-
nary ammonium compound either as a polymeric material
having a plurality of quaternary nitrogen atoms per
molecule or as a molecule having at least one long
carbon atom chain and an average of one quaternary
nitrogen atom per molecule. The prior art also de-
scribes hair conditioning compositions as including
silicon-containing compounds, substituted amines and
amides, nonionic surfactants, long carbon chain alco-
hols, and other ingredients to facilitate composition
formulation and enhance consumer appeal.
For example, U.S. Patent No. 3,993,744 to
Cella et al discloses that cationic compounds~ such
as quaternary ammonium compounds, and silicones can
be combined with perfluorinated compounds to provide
hair treatment compositions. The silicones specifical-
ly disclosed by Cella et al are surfactant-like poly-
oxyethylene polymethylsiloxanes that are presumed to
be water-~oluble or dispersible. According to Cella
et al, both the quaternary ammonium compounds and the
silicones are utili~ed in relatively small amounts,
e.g., about 0.05 weight percent of the composition.
Other prior art patents disclosing the use of silicones
having viscosities greater than about 100 centistokes
at 25C. to provide lubricity or sheen to various
cosmetic preparations, ;nclude U.S. Patent Nos.
2,942,008; 3,594,409; 3,824,303; and 4,014,995.
Matravers, in U.S. Pat~ent No. 4,725,433,
discloses a clear conditioning composition comprising
an aqueous blend of a polymeric quaternary ammonium
salt, ethoxylated lauryl alcohol, ethoxylated choles-
terol and hydroxyethylcellulose. However, each of
the ingredients included in the Matravers composition
is water-soluble or water-dispersible. The volatile
1~ conditioning agent utilized in the present invention,
such as a volatile silicone or a volatile hydrocarbon,
is water insoluble, and, therefore, is the most diffi
cult component of the composition to solubilize. The
composition disclosed by Matravers does not include a
1~ water-insoluble, volatile conditioning agent, and
there is no suggestion or teaching of the desirability
of including a water-insoluble conditioning agent in
the composition disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,725,433.
British Patent No. 1,598,567 further dis-
20 closes the use of a linear or a cyclic, volatile poly-
dimethylsiloxanes, i.e., having a boiling point in
the range of 99~C to 2~5C, in hair conditioning com-
positions. The cc~mposition of British Patent No.
1,598,567 is described as avoiding the formation of
an oleophilic hair surface that usually occurs when
using a quaternary ammonium hair conditioning agent.
South African Patent Application 666,421 also teaches
the use of compositions containing straight chain and
volatile cyclic silicone fluids to provide gloss and
30 conditioning effects to hair dressings.
Nachtigal et al, in UOS. Patent No.
4,275,055, disc:loses a pearlescent hair conditioner
composition including a quaternized tertiary amido-
amine, a quaternary ammonium compound and, optionally,
35 a tertiary amidoamine, i.e., stearamidoethyldiethyl-
amine. The composition of Nachtigal et al is directed
to achieving a stable pearlescent effect and neither
2i~ $;~ ~
-7-
includes a volatile conditioning agent nor is the
composition a clear conditioning composition that
demonstrates the improved rinsability of the clear
hair-treating composition of the present invention.
Bolich et al, in U.S. Patent No. 4,374,825,
discloses an aqueous hair conditioning composition
comprising a volatile hydrocarbon or volatile silicone,
a cationic hair conditioning agent and a nonionic
thickening agent. Similarly, Bolich et al in U.S.
Patent No. 4,472,375, discloses a hair conditioning
composition comprising a volatile hydrocarbon or a
volatile silicone, a nonionic thickening ayent, a
quaternary ammonium salt and a salt of a fatty amine.
Neither Bolich et al patent teaches or suggests using
a combination of a solubilizing nonionic surfactant
with a polyhydric compound to completely solubilize
the volatile conditioning agent to provide the unex-
pectedly efficacious, clear hair-conditioning composi-
tion of the present invention. Bolich, in UOS. Patent
No. 4,387,090, also discloses a hair-conditioner
composition comprising a volatile hydrocarbon or a
volatile silicone conditioning agent and a hydrophobic
thickening agent. Other prior art references relating
to the use of a volatile conditioning agent in hair-
conditioning composi tions include U.S. Patent Nos.3,577,528: 3,932,610; and 3,818,105.
Coopersmith in U.S. Patent No. 3,818,015
discloses that C12 to C14 isoparaffinic hydrocarbons,
when combined with naphthenic materials, are useful
in a wide range of cosmetic formulations. Such para-
ffinic hydrocarbons lubricate the skin to achieve a
quick spreading, non-greasy application of the product,
with evaporation of the hydrocarbon after application
to avoid a greasy buildup.
Japanese TRS 57-50909 discloses a hair con-
ditioner composition comprising a volatile silicone
and a combination of two water-insoluble quaternary
-B-
ammonium salts, wherein each quaternary ammonium salt
includes two long chain alkyl group~. Japanese TKS
57-50909 does not teach or sugges~t using an amidoamine
compound in a composition to impart unexpected hair
conditioning properties to hair or the desirability
of solubilizing a water-insoluble volatile conditioning
agent to provide a clear ;hair-conditioning composi-
tion.
Wagman et al in U.S. Patent No. 4,777,037
discloses a hair conditioner composition comprising a
polydimethyl cyclosiloxane, a quaternary-nitrogen
containing conditioning agent having two long alkyl
chains of twelve to eighteen carbons and two short
alkyl chains of one or two carbon atoms, a long chain
fatty alcohol and a tertiary amidoamine of the general
structural formula (III):
o
Rs-~-NH~R6~N(R7)2 (III~
wherein R5 is a fatty chain having from about 11 to
about 17 carbon atoms, R6 is an alkylene group having
2 or 3 carbon atoms and R7 is either methyl or ethyl.
The compositions of Wagman et al are emulsions as
opposed to the clear hair-conditioning compositions
of the present invention that demonstrate improved
rinsability frvm the hair and that impart exceptional
conditioning properties to the hair while coating the
hair with less of the quaternary ammonium compound
and the volatile conditioning agent.
As will be demonstrated more fully herein-
after, and in con~rast to prior art, emulsion-type
hair-conditioning compositions, a clear hair-condi-
tioner composition of the present invention, comprising
a quaternary ammonium compound, a volatile conditioning
agent, an amidoamine compound of general structural
35 formula (I) or (II), a solubilizing nonionic surfactant
and a polyhydric compound, unexpectedly exhibits im-
proved rinsability from the hair and imparts improved
conditioning properties upon application to human
hair. Therefore, in accordance with the present in-
ven~ion, hair conditioning properties are surprisingly
and unexpectedly improved by a method of contacting
the hair with a clear composition comprising a quater-
nary ammonium compound, a volatile conditioning agent,
an amidoamine compound of general structural formula
(I) or (II), a solubilizing nonionic surfactant and a
polyhydric compound. The compositions of the present
invention can be applied to the hair from an aqueous
vehicle at ambient tempera~ure and are allowed to
contact the hair for relatively short times to provide
the benefits and advantages of a hair conditioner.
Consequently, the method and composition of the present
invention condition the hair to provide more manageable
and esthetically-pleasing hair.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
In brief, the present invention relates to
a composi~ion and method of treating hair. More par-
ticularly~ ~he present invention relates to a methodof treating the hair, whereby the hair is conditioned
by contacting the hair with a clear, homogeneous com-
position comprising (a) a quaternary ammonium compound;
lb) a volatile conditioning agent, such as a volatile
silicone, like a low molecular weight polydimethyl-
siloxane compound; (c) an amidoamine compound, wherein
the amidoamine compound has the general structural
formula (I) or (II):
O R3
" ~ lî
30Rl-C-N~-~2-N-R4 Rl-C-NH-R2-Y~
~I) (II)
wherein Rl is a fatty acid chain containing from about
11 to about 21 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group
containing from two to about four carbon atoms, R3 is
hydrogen, methy:L, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group
containing fro~ one to about three carbon atoms, R~
is methyl, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group containing
~2~
--10--
from one to about three carbon atoms, and Y is a
heterocyclic nitrogen-containing moiety (d) a solu-
bilizing nonionic surfactant; and (e) a polyhydric
compound, such as a diol, triol or polyol. The easy-
S to-apply clear composition imparts excellent wet stage
and excellent dry stage conditioning properties to
the hair and exhibits improved rinsability from ~he
hair. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, hair treated
with the clear composition of the present invention
also demonstrates improved physical properties and
cosmetic properties, such as wet and dry feel, less
coating, wet and dry combing, thickness, overall hair
condition, manageability and body. In addition, the
clear hair-conditioning composition of the present
15 invention imparts improved conditioning properties to
treated hair while coating the hair with less of the
quaternary ammonium compound and volatile conditioning
agent.
Therefore, it is an object of the present
2~ invention to provide a clear hair-treating composition
that conditions the hair and imparts improved physical
properties and cosmetic properties to the hair.
It is also an object of the present invention
to provide a clear hair-~reating composition comprisin~
25 a quaternary ammonium compound; a volatile conditioning
agent; an amidoamine compound having general structural
formula (I) or (II); a solubilizing nonionic surfac-
tant; and a polyhydric compound.
Another object of the present inventîon is
30 to provide a clear hair-treating composition that is
capable of conditioning the hair and imparting improved
physical and cosmetic properties to the hair over a
pH range of about 4 to about 7.
Another object of the present invention is
35 to provide a method of treating hair with a clear
hair-treating composition to achieve an improved con-
dition of the hair.
Another object of the present invention is
to provide a method of treating hair by contacting
the hair with a clear composition having a pH of be-
tween about 4 and about 7 and comprising a water-
soluble quaternary ammonium compound, a volatile poly-
dimethylsiloxane compound or a v~latile hydrocarbon
compound, an amidoamine of general structural formula
(I) or (II), a solubilizing nonionic surfactant and a
polyhydric compound; then drying the hair, to condition
the hair and to impart improved physical and cosmetic
properties to the hair.
Another object of the present invention is
to provide a method of treating hair to yield unex-
pectedly well-conditioned hair by contacting the hair
with a clear composition comprising (a) from about
0.5% to about 5~ by weight of a quaternary ammonium
compound; (b~ from about 0.1~ to about 5~ by weight
of a volatile polydimethylsiloxane compound or a vola-
tile hydrocarbon compound; (c) from about 0.1~ to
about 5~ by weight of an amidoamine compound having
the general structural formula (I) or ~I~); (d) from
about 1% to about 10~ by weight of a solubilizing
nonionic surfactant; and (e) from about 10~ to about
30% by weight of a p~lyhydric compound, wherein the
weight ratio of solubili~ing nonionic surfactant to
volatile conditioning agent ranges from about 1 to 1
to about 10 to 1.
Another object of the present invention is
to provide a method of treating hair to yield unex-
pectedly well conditioned hair by contacting the hairwith a composition comprising fr~m about 0.5% to about
5% by weight dicetyldimonium chloride; from about
0.1~ to about 5~ by weight of cyclomethicone; and
from about 0.1~ to about 5~ by weight of stearamido-
propyldimethylamine, an amidoamine compound of generalstructural formula (I) having the structural formula
(IV):
'2~
O CH3
CH3(cH2)l6c-NH-(cH2)3-~-cH3 (IV)
fr~m about 1% to about 10% by weight of an N-alkylated
pyrrolidone; and from about 10% to ab~ut 30~ of hexy-
lene glycol, wherein the weight ratio of N-alkylated
pyrrolidone to cyclomethicone is in the range of from
about 1 to 1 to about 10 to 1.
Another object of the present invention is
to provide a new and improved clear hair conditioning
composition capable of conditioning the hair and im-
parting improved physical, cosmetic and esthetic pro-
perties both to normal hair and to tinted, frosted,
bleached or other substantially-damaged hair.
Still another object of the present invention
is to provide a method of treating the hair to yield
unexpectedly well-conditioned hair having esthetically-
pleasing physical properties by contacting the hair
with a clear, agueous spray or solution to treat the
hair, without heat, in either a rinse-off or leave-on
method.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION ~)F THE PREFERR~:D EMBODIMENT
The clear hair-conditioning composition of
the present invention comprises a (a) quaternary am-
monium compound; Ib) a volatile conditioning agent,like a low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane com-
pound or a low molecular weight hydrocarbon compound;
(c) an amidoamine compound having the general struc-
tural formula (I) or ~
R3 O
Rl-C-NH--R2-N-R4 Rl-C-NH-R2-Y 7
(I) ~II)
wherein Rl is a fatty acid chain containing from about
11 to about 21 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group
containing from two to about four carbon atoms, R3 is
hydrogen, methy:L, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group
containing from one to about three carbon atoms, R4
-13-
is methyl, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group containing
from one to about three carbon atoms, and Y is a
heterocyclic nitrogen-containing moiety, like morpho-
line or pyridine; (d) a solubilizing nonionic surfac-
tant, like an N-alkylated pyrrolidone; and (e) a poly-
hydric compound. The easy-to-apply, clear composition
provides excellent wet comb and excellent dry comb
properties to the hair, and the hair demonstrates
improved physical and cosmetic properties, such as
gloss, thickness, softness, manageability, body and
less coating.
The quaternary ammoniu~ compounds useful in
the composition of the present invention preferably
are water-soluble quaternary ammonium compounds having
one or two long chain alkyl groups containing from
about 8 to about lB carbon atoms. The long chain
alkyl groups also can include, in addition to, or in
replacement of t carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether link-
ages or similar water-solubilizing linkages. The
remaining two to three substituents of the quaternary
nitrogen of the quaternary ammonium compound can be
hydrogen; or benzyl; or short chain alkyl or hydroxy-
alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, hydroxymethyl or
hydroxyethyl groups; or combinations thereof, either
of the same or of different identity.
Rowever, an oil-soluble, water-dispersible
quaternary ammonium compound, either alone or in com-
bination with a water~soluble quaternary ammonium
compound also can be used in the composition of the
present invention. The oil-soluble quaternary ammonium
compounds useful in the composition of the present
invention are quaternary ammonium compounds having
one or two long chain alkyl groups including frQm
about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. The remaining two
to three substituents present on the quaternary nitro-
gen of the quaternary ammonium compound can be hydro-
-14-
gen; or benzyl; or short chain alkyl groups, such as
methyl, or ethyl; or combinations thereof.
Therefore, the quaternary ammonium compound
useful in the present invention is a water-soluble or
oil-soluble quaternary ammonium compound, or combina-
tions thereof, depicted by the following general struc-
tural formula:
r R9 1 ~
Rg-N-Rlo¦ X~,
-- Rll _l
wherein R8 is an alkyl group including from about 8
to about 22 carbon atoms; Rg is selected from the
group consisting of an alkyl group including from
about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, a hydrogen atom, a
methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxymethyl group
and a hydroxyethyl group; Rlo is selected from the
group consisting of a benzyl group, a hydrogen atom,
a methyl group, an ethyl group, a hydroxymethyl group
and a hydroxyethyl group; Rll is selected from the
group consisting of a hydrogen atom, a methyl group,
an ethyl group, a hydroxymethyl group and a hydroxy-
ethyl group; and X is selected from the group consist-
ing of chloride, bromide, methosulfate, ethosulfate,
tosylate, acetate, phosphate and nitrate. However,
it should be noted that the quaternary nitrogen of
the quaternary ammonium compound also can be included
in a heterocyclic nitrogen-containing moiety, such as
morpholine or pyridine.
As previously discussed, quaternary ammonium
compounds are well-known hair conditioners. The quater-
nary ammonium salts are substantive to the hair and
pro~ide some of the properties desired in well-condi-
tioned hair. Consequently, several quaternary ammonium
compounds have been found useful as hair conditioning
agents, and therefore can be used as the quaternary
ammonium compound conditioning component in the compo-
sition and method of the present invention. Conse-
-15-
quently, the following water-soluble quaternary am-
monium compounds are exemplary, but not limiting, of
water-soluble quaternary ammonium compounds that can
be used in the method and composition of the present
invention, either alone or in com~ination:
Lauryltrimethylammonium
chloride (Laurtrimonium chloride);
Stearyltri(2-hydroxyethyl)
ammonium chloride (Quaternium-l~);
Lauryldimethylbenzyl-
ammonium chloride (Lauralkonium chloride~;
Oleyldimethylbenzyl-
ammonium chloride (Olealkonium chloride);
Dilauryldimethylammonium
chloride (Dilauryldimonium chloride);
Cetyldimethylbenzylam-
monium chloride (Cetalkonium chloride);
Dicetyldimethylammonium
chloride (Dicetyldimonium chloride);
Laurylpyridinium
chloride ~Laurylpyridinium chloride);
Cetylpyridinium
chloride (Cetylpyridinium chloride);
N-~soya alkyl)-N,N,N-
trimethyl ammonium
chloride (Soyatrimonium chloride);
Polydiallyldimethyl-
ammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-6);
Diallyldimethyl ammonium
salt copolymerized with
acrylamide (Polyquaternium-7);
Guarhydroxypropyltri-
monium chloricle (Guarhydroxypropyltrimonium
chloride~;
8 ~ ~
-16-
Copolymer of N-vinyl~
pyrrolidone and N,N-
dimethylaminoethyl-
methacrylate, quater-
nized with dimethyl-
sulfate (Polyquaternium-113;
Copolymer of acrylamide
and N,N-dimethylamino-
ethyl methacrylate,
quaterniæed with di-
methyl sulfate (Polyquaternium-5);
Cationic hydroxyethyl-
cellulosics (Polyquaternium-10);
Cationic hydroxyethyl-
cellulosics (Polyquaternium-24);
Cetyltrimethylammonium
chloride ~Cetrimonium chloride);
Decyldimethyloctyl-
ammonium chloride (Quaternium-24);
Myristyltrimethyl-
ammonium chloride (Mytrimonium chloride);
Polyoxyethylene(2)- -
cocomonium chloride (PEG-2 Cocomonium chloride);
Methylbis(2-hydroxy-
ethyl)cocoammonium
chloride (PEG-2 Cocoyl Quaternium~4);
Methylpolyoxyethylene-
(15)cocoammonium
chloride (PEG-15 Cocoyl Quaternium-4~;
Methylbis(2-hydroxy-
ethyl)octadecyl
ammonium chloride (PEG-2 Stearyl Quaternium-4);
Methylpolyoxyethylene-
(15)octadecylammonium
chloride (PEG-15 Stearyl Quaternium-4);
Methylbis(2-hydroxyethyl)-
oleylammonium chloride (PEG-2 Oleyl Quaternium-4);
-17-
Methylpolyoxyethylene-
(15)oleylammonium
chloride tPEG-15 Oleyl quaternium-4);
wherein the name in parenthesis is the compound name
given by the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Ascocia-
tion, Inc. in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
3rd ed., 1982, hereinafter referred to as the CTFA
DictionarY
.
Similarly, the following list of oil-soluble
quaternary ammonium compounds is exemplary, but not
limiting, of oil-soluble, water-dispersible quaternary
ammonium compounds that can be used in the method and
composition of the present invention, either alone,
in combination, or in combination with the water-
soluble quaternary ammonium compounds:
Cetyldimethylethyl-
ammonium bromide (Cetethyldimonium bromide);
Cetyltrimethylammonium
p-toluenesulfonate (Cetrimonium tosylate);
Stearyldimethylbenzyl-
ammonium chloride (Stearalkonium chloride);
Distearyldimethyl-
ammonium chloride (Distearyldimonium chloride);
Dimethyldi(hydrogenated
tallow)ammonium
chloride ~Quaternium-18);
Cetyltrimethylammonium
bromide (Cetrimonium bromide);
Cetylethylmorpholinium
ethosulfate lCetethylmorpholinium
ethosulfate);
Behenyldimethylbenzyl-
ammonium chloride (Behenalkonium chloride);
Behenyltrimethylammonium
chloride (Behentrimonium chloride);
Myristyltrimethyl-
ammonium bromide (Mytrimonium bromide);
-18
wherein the name in parenthesis is the compound name
given in the CTFA Dictionary.
It should be noted that: a long alkyl chain
of the quaternary ammonium compound does not have to
be solely, or primarily, of one chain length~ i.e.,
the long chain need not be only lauryl (C12), myristyl
(C14), stearyl (Cl8) or behenyl (C22). Rather, a
quaternary ammonium compound wherein the long alkyl
chain is a mixture of lengths can be used~ Such guater-
nary ammonium conditioning agents are prepared con-
veniently from naturally-occurring materials, such as
tallow, coconut oil, soya oil and the like, or from
synthetically produced mix~ures. Examples of water-
soluble quaternary ammonium compounds having mixed
carbon chain lengths include N-(soyaalkyl)-N,N,N-
trimethyl ammonium chloride (soyatrimonium chloride);
polyoxyethylene(2)cocomonium chloride (PEG-2 cocomonium
chloride); and dimethyldi~hydrogenated tallow) ammonium
chloride (Quaternium l~).
The quaternary ammonium compound is included
in the clear hair-conditioner composition of the pre-
sent invention in an amount of from about 0.5% to
about 5% by weight of the compositionO Preferably,
the quaternary ammonium compound is present in an
amount ranging from about 1% to about 4~ by weight of
the composition, and to achieve the full advantage of
the present invention, the quaternary ammonium compound
is present in an amount ranging from about l~ to about
2.5~ by weight of the composition. It has been found
that an amount of quaternary ammonium compound of at
least about 0.5~ by weight is necessary to provide a
clear hair conditioning composition of the present
invention that imparts an unexpectedly high degree of
hair conditioning to treated hair.
The composition of the present invention
also includes from about 0.5~ to about 5~, and prefer-
ably from about l~ to about 4~, by weight of a volatile
3 ~ ~
--19--
conditioning agent. In general, the volatile condi-
tioning agent is added to the clear composition of
the present invention in an amount sufficient to pro-
vide improved combing and improved feel of the treated
hair. The volatile conditioning can be either a vola-
tile, low molecular weight silicone or a volatile,
low molecular weight hydrocarbon. The volatile low
molecular weight silicone normally is a low molecular
weight polydimethylsiloxane compound, however a low
10 molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane including some
phenyl substituents also is useful in the compositions
of the present invention. Furthermore, the low mole-
cular weight polydimethylsiloxane compound can be a
linear or a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane compound, and
can include phenyl substituents, as long as the poly-
dimethylsiloxane compound provides sufficient lubrica-
tion and imparts hair conditioning properties to wet
hair, and has sufficient volatility to slowly vola-
tilize from the hair such that a residual buildup of
silicone compound is not present on dry hair.
~ n example of a linear, low molecular weight,
volatile polydimethylsiloxane compound useful in the
composition and method of the present invention is
the compound named in the CTFA Dictionary as hexamethyl-
disiloxane, available commercially under the tradenameDOW CORNING 200 FLUID, from Dow Corning Corp., Midland,
Michigan. Hexamethyldisiloxane has a viscosity of
0.65 cs (centistokes), is highly volatile, i5 non-
greasy, provides lubrication, and improves the overall
combing proE~rties of the hair. Other linear polydi-
methylsiloxane~, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane,
having a boiling point of about 195C and a viscosity
of 1.5 centistokes7 octamethyltrisiloxane; and dodeca-
methylpentasiloxane, also have sufficient volatility
to be useful in the composition of the present inven-
tion, and are preferred over hexamethyldisiloxane due
to a lower volatility than hexamethyldisiloxane. In
2 ~
-20-
general, it has been found that linear, low molecular
weight, volatile polydimethylsiloxane compounds having
a viscosity at 25C in the range of from about 0.5 cs
to about 5 cs, and a boiling pOillt at atmospheric
pressure ranging from about 100C to about 250~CI are
suitable for use in the clear hai.r-treating composition
of the present invention.
In addition, the cyclic, low molecular
weight, volatile polydimethylsiloxanes, named in the
CTFA Dictionary as cyclomethicones, are useful in the
clear composition and method of the present invention.
The cyclomethicones useful in the present invention
are low molecular weight, wa~er-insoluble cyclic com-
pounds having an average of about 3 to about 6 -[O-
Si(CH3)2]- repeating group units per molecule and
boil at atmospheric pressure in a range of from about
150~C to about 250C. The polydimethyl cyclosiloxanes
having an average of about 4 to about 5 repeating
units per molecule, i.e., the tetramer and pentamer,
are preferred. To achieve the full advantage of the
present invention, polydimethyl cyclosiloxanes having
boiling points at atmospheric pressure in the range
of 170C to 220C, and viscosities at 25C of from
about 2 to about 6 centistokes are included in the
composition. Suitable cyclomethicones are available
commercially under the tradenames SILICONE SF-1173
(octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) and SILICONE SF-1202
(decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) from General Electric,
Waterford, New York, and SILICONE 334 FLUID and SILT-
CONE 345 FLUID from Dow Corning Corporation, Midland,Michigan, the tetramer being listed first in each
instance.
The volatile conditioning agent included in
the composition of the present invention also can be
a volatile hydrocarbon, such as a hydrocarbon including
from about 10 carbon atoms to about 26 carbon atoms,
that have sufficient volatility to slowly volatilize
2 ~
-21-
from the hair such that a residual buildup of hydrocar-
bon is not present on dry hair. The volatile hydrocar-
bon provides essentially the same benefits as the
volatile silicone, such as lubrication and wet hair
conditioning.
The preferred volatile hydrocarbon compound
is an aliphatic hydrocarbon including from about 12
to about 24 carbon atoms, and has a boiling point in
the range of from about 100C to about 300~C.
Exemplary volatile hydrocarbons are depicted in general
structural formula (V), wherein n ranges from 2 to 5,
CH3 CH3
H3c-(-c-cH2-)ncH-cH3 (V)
CH3
Examples of volatile hydrocarbons useful in the clear
hair-conditioning composition of the present invention
are the commercially-available compounds PERMETHYL
99A and PERMETHYL lOlA, corresponding to compounds of
general structure (V) wherein n is 2 and 3, respec-
tively, from Permethyl Corporation, Frazer, PA. Avolatile hydrocarbon compound is useful in the clear
hair-conditioning composition of the present inven~ion
either alone, in combination with another volatile
hydrocarbon, or in combination with a volatile sili-
cone~
The above-described linear and cyclic vola-
tile silicones, and volatile hydrocarbon compounds,
have been used in hair treating compositions and in
various other cosmetic compositions, such as anti-
perspirants, deodorants, hair sprays, hair coloringproducts, hair grooming products, powder and color
products and stick products because their low viscosi~y
and low surface tension provide a light, silky feel
on hair and skin. However, it is both new and unex- ~
pected for a volatile polydimethylsiloxane, or a vola-
tile hydrocarbon compound, as described above, to be
combined with a quaternary ammonium compound, an amido-
amine compound of general structural formula (I) ortII), a solubilizing nonionic surfactant and a poly-
hydric compound to provide a clear, hair-conditioning
composition that imparts such improved wet stage pro-
perties, dry stage properties, rinsing properties,and overall conditioning benefits to treated hair,
like a reduction of split ends, improved body and
improved manageability. Previous to the method and
composition of the present invention, aqueous hair
conditioners including a volatile silicone or a vola-
tile hydrocarbon compound were emulsion-type products
because of the inherent water-insolubility of the
silicone and hydrocarbon compounds. Surprisingly and
unexpectedly, the composition of the present invention
is a stable and clear solution, or dispersion, of the
volatile silicone and/or volatile hydrocarbon compound
in an aqueous vehicle.
In addition to the quaternary ammonium com-
pound and the volatile conditioning agent, the compo-
sition of the present invention also includes fromabout 0.1~ to about 5%, and preferably from about
0.1% to about 2%, by weight of an amidoamine compound.
In accordance with an important feature of the present
invention, an amidoamine compound having the general
structural formula (I) or (II):
O R3
Rl-c-NH-R2-N-R4 Rl--C-NH--R2-Y ~
(I) (II)
wherein Rl is a fatty acid chain containing from about
11 to about ~1 carbon atoms, R2 is an alkylene group
containing from two to about four carbon atoms, R3 is
hydrogen, methyl, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group
containing from one to about three carbon atoms, R4
is methyl, ethyl or a hydroxyalkylene group containing
from one to about three carbon atoms, and Y is a
heterocyclic nitrogen-containing moiety, like morpho-
line, is included, and solubilized, in a clear compo-
2 ~ 3 ~ 9
sition of the present invention to impart improvedphysical and cosmetic properties to hair.
An example of an amidoamine compound having
the general structural formula (I) that is useful in
the composition and method of the present invention
is the compound named in the CTF~ Dictionary as stear-
amidopropyldimethylamine, available commercially under
the tradename LEXAMINE S-13 from Inolex Chemical Div.,
Philadelphia, PA, and having the structural formula
~VI):
O CH3
CH3(cH2)l6c-NH-(cH2)3-N CH3 (VI)
Other suitable amidoamine compounds include, but are
not limited to, compounds designated in the CTFA Dic-
tionary as stearamidoethyldiethanolamine, isostear-
amidopropylmorpholine, stearamidopropylmorpholine and
stearamidoethylethanolamine, having structural formulas
~VII), (VIII), (IX) and (X), respectively. In addi-
tion, suitable
O CH 2CH 2 OH
CH3~cH2)l6c-NH-(cH2)2-N-cH2cH2oH
(VII)
O
C17H3sC-NH-(c82)3-N
(VIII) ~
O ~_~
CH3~CH2)16C-NH-(cH2)3-N
(IX)
H
CH3(cH2)l6c-NH-(cH2)2-N-cH2cH2oH
(X)
amidoamine compounds include compounds having either
one or two hydroxymethyl, hydroxypropyl, methyl or
ethyl moieties, or combinations thereof, present on
an amino nitrogen in place of the hydroxyethyl
2~ Q~ '~';O;~
-24-
moieties. Examples of such amidoamine compounds in-
clude, but are not limited to, dimethylaminopropyl
stearamide, diethylaminoethyl stlearamide, and dimethyl-
aminopropyl myristamide.
The fatty acid chain Rl of compounds of
general ~tructural formulas (I) and (II) does not
have to be solely, or primarily, of one chain length,
i.e., the long chain need not be derived only from
lauryl (C12), myristyl lcl4), cetyl (C16), or stearyl
(Clg). Rather, amidoamine compounds of general struc-
tural formulas (I) and (II) wherein the long alkyl
chain is a mixture of length~ can be used. Such amido-
amine compounds are prepared conveniently from natural-
ly-occurring materials, such as tallow, coconut oil,
soya oil and the like, or from synthetically produced
mixtures.
In accordance with an important feature of
the present invention, after adjustment of the composi-
tion pH with a suitable acid, the above-described
amidoamine compounds of general structural formulas
~I) and (II) exhibit the properties of a cationic
surfactant. In the free amine state, as depicted in
structural formulas (VI) through (X)~ the amidoamine
compounds generally are insoluble in water. However,
after pH adjustment, the amidoamine compounds exhibit
increased water solubility. Consequently, in the
neutralized state, the amidoamine compound behaves
like a cationic surfactant, and therefore is substan-
tive to the hair and imparts conditioning properties
to the hair.
The acid used to adjust the p~ of the compo-
sition can be essentially any organic acid or mineral
acid. Such acids include, b~t are not limited to,
hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid, phos-
phoric acid, lactic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid,acetic acid, gLuconic acid, glycolic acid and propionic
acid, or combinations thereof. To achieve the full
-25-
advantage of the present invention, the composition
pH is adjusted with an organic acid, like lactic acid.
In general, a sufficient amount of acid is added to
adjust the final pH of the hair-treating composition
to within a range of from about 4 to about 7, and
more preferably to within a pH range of from about
5.5 to about 6.5.
In addition to the quaternary ammonium com-
pound, the volatile conditioning agent and the amido-
amine, the clear hair-conditioning composition of the
present invention also includes a solubilizing nonionic
surfactant. The solubilizing nonionic surfactant is
present in the composition in an amount ranging from
about 1% to about 10% by weight of the composition.
lS The solubilizing nonionic surfactant is included in
the composition to sufficiently solubilize the volatile
conditioning compound, and to assist in solubilizing
the amidoamine compound, such that the resulting con-
ditioning composition is clear and homogeneous. In
accordance with an important feature of the present
invention, the solubilizing nonionic surfactant and
volatile conditioning agent are present in the compo-
sition in a weight ratio of from at least about 1 to
1 and up to about 10 to 1. If the weight ratio of
solubilizing nonionic surfactant to volatile condition-
ing agent is less than about 1 to 1 t the volatile
conditioning agent is not sufficiently solubilized to
provide a clear hair-conditioning composition.
Furthermore, if the weight ratio is greater than about
10 to 1, no further solubilizing benefits are realized
and the solubilizing nonionic surfactant is present
in excess and merely rinsed away from the hair without
achieving any further solubilizing benefits or impart-
ing any conditioning benefits. To achieve the full
advantage of the present invention, a weight ratio of
solubilizing nonionic surfactant to volatile condition
agent in the range of from about 2 to 1 to about 4 to
.
-26-
1 provides a clear composition that imparts superior
conditioning properties to the hair, without using an
appreciable e~cess amount of solubilizing nonionic
surfactant that eventually is wasted.
Suitable solubilizing nonionic surfactants
include any nonionic sur~actant t:hat effectively solu-
bilizes a volatile silicone conditioning compound or
a volatile hydrocarbon conditioning compound that
yields a clear, aqueous-based conditioner composition
and that does not adversely affect either the quater-
nary ammonium compound, the amidoamine compound, or
the volatile conditioning agent in regards to condi-
tioning treated hair. Particular solubilizing nonionic
surfactants found to be useful in the method and com-
position of the present invention include the N-alkylat-
ed-2-pyrrolidones of general structural formula XI,
wherein R12 is an alkyl moiety, straight chain or
branched chain, including from about 8 to about 16
carbon atoms:
~0
Rl2
(XI)
Specific N-alkylated-2-pyrrolidones found useful in
the composition of the present invention include decyl
pyrrolidone (N-decyl-2-pyrrolidone) and lauryl
pyrrolidone ~N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone), available com-
mercially under the tradenames SURFADONE LP-100 and
SUFRADONE LP-300, respectively, from GAF Corporation,
Wayne, NJ. Both SURFADONE LP-100 and SVRFADONE LP-
300 sufficiently solubilized the volatile conditioning
agent to providle a clear conditioning composition
that effectively imparted hair conditioning properties
to treated hair.
-27-
The clear hair conditioning composition of
the present invention also includes from about 10~ to
about 30% by weight of a polyhydric compound. Prefer-
ably, the clear hair-conditioning composition includes
from about 15~ to about 25% by weight of the polyhydric
compound, and, to achieve the full advantage of the
present invention, the composition includes from about
18~ to about 22% by weight of the polyhydric compound.
The polyhydric compound serves to couple the quaternary
1~ ammoniurn comp~und, the amidoamine compound, the vola-
tile conditioning agent and the solubilizing nonionic
surfactant to provide a clear, non-turbid, aqueous-
based hair-conditioning composition. The polyhydric
compound can be a glycol, a triol or a polyol. Speci-
fic examples include, but are not limited to, ethyleneglycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene
glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, dipro-
pylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, glycerol, or a
polyethylene or polypropylene glycol having an average
2~ molecular weight up to approximately 500. It has
been found that if the polyhydric compound is present
in an amount of greater than about 30% by weight of
the composition that the clarity of the composition
is reduced. Furthermore, if the polyhydric compound
is present in the composition in an amount below about
10~ by weight, then the conditioner composition is
not clear, unless an alcohol or other suitable organic
cosolvent is included in the composition.
In addi tion to the five above-described
essential ingredients, other common cosmetic components
and additives that can be incorporated with the essen-
tial ingredients of the present invention, as long as
the basic pro~rties of the hair-treating composition,
such as clarity of the composition and an ability to
impart hair conditioning properties to hair, are not
adversely affected. Such optional ingredients include,
but are not limited to, fragrances, dyes, hair color-
-28-
ants, dandruff control agents, hydrotropes, foam sta-
bilizersf preservatives, water s~ftening agents, acids,
bases, buffers and the likeO These optional components
and additives usually will be present in weight per-
centages of less than about 2% each, and from about
5% to about 10~ by weight of the composition in total.
The vehicle of the hair-treating composition
is predominantly water, but organic solvents also can
be included in order to facilitate manufacturing of
the composition or to provide esthetic properties to
the composition, such as viscosity control. Suitable
solvents include the lower alcohols like ethyl alcohol
and isopropyl alcohol; glycol ethers, like 2-butoxy-
ethanol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene
glycol and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or mono-
methyl ether; and mixtures thereof. These non-aqueous
solvents can be present in the clear hair-conditioning
composition of the present invention in an amount
from about 1 to abou~ 50% by weight and in particular
from about 5 to about 25% by weight, relative to the
total weight of the carrier vehicle in the composition.
The clear hair-conditioning compositions of
the present invention also can be thickened, for
example, with sodium alginate; guar gum; xanthan gum;
gum arabic: cellulose derivatives such as methylcellu-
lose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellu-
lose and carboxymethylcellulose; and various polymeric
thickeners, such as polyacrylic acid derivatives.
These thickeners are present in an amount ranging
from about 0.1% to about 3~, and preferably from about
0.25% to about 1%, by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
The clear hair-conditioning compositions
also can include inorganic salts, humectants and simi- -
lar materials to provide esthetic properties and desir-
able physical properties to the composition. General-
ly, such optional ingredients are present in weight
2 ~
--2g--
percen~ages ranging from about 0.1% to about lO~ each,
and from about 0.1% to about 20% in total, relative
to the total weight of the composition.
The compositions of the present invention
are clear, relatively viscous compositions that are
stable to phase separation at a temperature of about
25C for an indefinite period of time. For example,
the clear compositions of the present invention have
demonstrated sufficient stability to phase separation
at temperatures normally found in commercial product
storage and shipping to remain unaffected for periods
of one year or more~ Furthermore, upon a judicious
selection of a liquid vehicle, it also is envisioned
that a composition of the present invention can resist
phase separation for even substantially longer storage
periods. It also has been found that a clear, viscous
composition has enhanced customer appeal compared to
the present-day, emulsion-type conditioner composi-
tions.
In accordance with the method of the present
invention, several hair-treating compositions were
prepared, then applied to human hair, to demonstrate
the improved hair conditioning proper~ies imparted by
the clear compositions of the present invention com-
prising a quaternary ammonium compound; a volatile
conditioning agent; an ~midoamine compound of general
structural formula (I) or (II~; a solubilizing nonionic
surfactant; and a polyhydric compound. I~ has been
demonstrated that, to provide a clear composition and
3~ to maximize hair conditioning properties, the hair-
treating composition of the present invention must
include both a volatile conditioning agent, such as a
volatile silicone, and a solubilizing nonionic surfac-
tant. The volatile conditioning agent is pre-solu-
bilized in the solubilizing nonionic surfactant, thenthis mixture i!; combined with the other composition
ingredients to provide a clear conditioning composi-
-30-
tion. Surprisingly, the resulting clear hair-condi-
tioning composition is more easily rinsed from the
hair, and imparts excellent conditioning properties
to the hair utilizing a lower amount of the condition-
ing agents. Consequently, the amount of conditionerscoating the hair is decreased and residual conditioner
buildup on the hair is reduced. Furthermore, as will
be demonstrated hereinafter, laboratory and salon
testing has shown that optimum conditioning properties
are imparted to the hair when quaternary ammonium
compound, an amidoamine compound and a solubilized
volatile conditioning agent are present in the clear,
conditioning composition in sufficient quantity.
For example, it has been found that at least
about 0.5%, and preferably at least 1%, by weight of
a quaternary ammonium compound should be present in
the clear hair-conditioning compositions of the present
invention. As will be discussed more fully herein-
after, it also has been found that an amount of quater-
nary ammonium compound in the composition above about0.53 by weight further improves performance of the
hair~conditioning composition up to a level of about
5~ by weight of the quaternary ammonium compound. It
further has been found that a level of quaternary
ammonium compound in the composition above about 5%
by weight, such as up to abou~ 15~ by weight, does
not adversely affect composition performance, but may
affect the clarity of the composltion and also does
not appreciably improve the performance of the hair-
conditioning composition. Therefore, any amounts of
guaternary ammonium compound in the composition above
about 5~ by weight are apparently wasted because the
excess quaternary ammonium compound is rinsed from
the hair during the rinsing step of the hair treatment.
To demonstrate the new and unexpected results
achieved by treatin~ hair with a clear conditioning
composition comprising a quaternary ammonium compound;
2 ~ 9
-31-
an amidoamine of general structural formula (I) or
(II): a volatile, conditioning silicone or hydrocarbon;
a solubilizing nonionic surfactant; and a polyhydric
compound, the following compositions (Examples l
through 12 in TABLE I) first werle prepared. The method
of manufacture of Examples l through 12 is essentially
identical to the method of manufacturiny the remaining
Examples 13 through 30 and is described more fully
hereinafter. Particular compositions of Examples 1
through 12 then were tested for their ability to con-
dition hair. The parti~ular quaternary ammonium com-
pound used in Examples l through 12 was dicetyldimonium
chloride, available under the tradename ADO Æ N 432ET,
from Sherex Chemical Co., Dublin, O. and including
70% by weight of dicetyldimonium chloride; the amido-
amine compound used was stearamidopropyldimethylamine,
available under the tradename LEXAMIN~ S-13, from
Inolex Corp., Philadelphia, PA. and including 100~ by
weight of stearamidopropyldimethylamine the volatile,
low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxane compound
used was cyclomethicone, available under the tradename
SILICONE SF1173 from G.E. Silicones, Waterford, NY on
a 100~ by weight active ingredient basis. It should
be understood that the following Examples 1 through
30 may not include particular essential ingredients
of the clear hair-treating compositions of the present
invention. Examples l through 24 were prepared and
tested to help determine the limits of essential in-
gredient~ that can be present in the clear hair-treat-
ing compositions of the present invention, and theeffects of omitting an essential ingredient from the
hair-treating composition.
2 ~
-32-
TA~LE I
INGREDIE NT
(% by wei~ht) EXol EX.2 EX.3 EX.4 EX.5 EX.6 EX.7 EX.8 EX.9
.
Soft Water 5.00 5.00 -- -- 5.00
ADOGEN 432ET 2.00 2.00 -- 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
(70% by wt. active)
SILI CONE
SF1173 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 2.00 2.00 2.00
(100% by wt. active)
SURFADONE
LP300 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 6.00 6.00 6.00
(100~ by wt. active)
LEXAMINE S-13 -- 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80
(100% by wt. active)
Lactic Acid -- 0 . 30 0. 30 0. 30 0. 30 0. 30 0. 30 0. 30 0. 30
(85~ by wt. active)
Hexylene
Glycol -- --10.00 10.00 -- 5.00 5.00 10.00 15.00
Octoxynol-91)1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20 1.20
Fragrance 0.40 0.40 0.50 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0~40
Soft Water87.50 86.40 83.30 81.40 77.40 77.40 72.40 67.40 62.40
Thickener2)0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75
Preserva-
tive3)0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
Ethanol9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00 9.00
Composition Emul- Emul- Slgty Hazy Hazy Clear Cldy Slgty Slgty
Appearance: sion sion Turbid TurbidTurbd
2 ~
-33-
TABLE I (cont.)
INGREDIENT
(~ by weight) EX.10 EX~ll EX.12 EX.13 EX.14 EX.15 EX.l~ EX.17 EX.18
Soft Water
ADO OE N 432ET 2.00 2.00 2.00 -- -- -- -- -- --
(70% by wt. active)
SILICONE
SF1173 2.00 2.00 2.00 1.004)1.004)1.004)1.004)1.004)1-004)
(100% by wt. active)
SURFADONE
LP300 6.00 6.00 6.00 5.00 5.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 4.00
~100% by wt. active)
LEXAMINE S-13 0.80 0.80 0.80 1.08 1.30 1.~4 1.44 2.16 --
(100% by wt. active)
Lactic Acid 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.41 0.49 0.54 0.54 0.81 --
(85% by wt. active)
Hexylene
Glycol30.00 22.00 18.00 13.52 16.22 18.02 18.02 27.03 20.00
Octoxynol-91) 1.20 1.20 1.20 -- -- -- -- -- --
Fragrance0.40 0.40 0.40 -- -- -- -- -- --
Soft Water47.40 55.40 59.49 78.99 75.99 74.82 75.82 66.00 75.00
Thickener2) 0.75 0.75 0.75 -- -- -- -- -~ ~~
Preserva-
tive3)0.15 0.15 0.15 -- -- -- -- -- --
Ethanol9.00 9.00 9.00 -- -- -- -- -- --
Composition Clear Clear Clear Clear Clear Clear Slgty Cldy Cldy
Appearance: TurbidSep- Sep-
arates arates
2 {~
-34-
TABLE I (cont.)
-
INGREDIENT
(% by weight) EX.19 EX.20 EX.21 EX 22 EX.23 EX.24
Soft Water
ADO OE N 432ET -- -- -- -- -- --
(70% by wt. active)
SILICONE
SF1173 1.004)1.004)1.004)1.005)1.005)1. oo6)
(100% by wt. active)
SURFADONE
LP300 10.00 4.00 10.00 5.00 4.00 5.00
(100~ by wt. active)
LEXAMINE S-13 -~ 1.44 1.44 1.44
(100~ by wt. active)
Lactic Acid ~ - 0.54 0.54 0.54
(85% by wt. active)
Hexylene20.00 -- --18.02 18.02 18.02
Glycol
Octoxynol-gl) __ __ __ __ __ __
Eragrance -- -- -- -- -- --
Soft Water 69.00 75.00 69.00 74.00 75.00 74.00
Thickener2) -- -- -- -- -- --
Preserva-
tive3) -- --
Ethanol -- 20.00 20.00 -- -- --
Composition Cldy Phase Cldy Clear Clear Cldy
Appearance: Sep- Sep- Sep-
ar- ar- ar-
ates ation ates
1) TRITON X-100, Rohm and Haas Co., Philadelphia,
PA.
2) NATROSOL 250HNR, Hercules, Inc., Wilmington, DE.
(hydroxyethylcellulose)
3) 0.05% KATHON CG, Rohm and Haas Co., Philadelphia,
PA. and 0.10~ GLYDANT, Lonza, Inc., Fairlawn,
NJ.
2 0 ~
-35-
4~ The silicone used in this example is SILOXANE F-
222, a 100% active cyclomethicone, available
from SWS Silicones Corp., Adrian, MI.
5) The silicone used in this example is DOW CORNING
SILICONE 556, a 100~ active linear polyphenyl-
methylsiloxane, available from Dow Corning Corp.,
Midland, MI.
6) The silicone used in this example is DOW CORNING
SILICONE FLUID 200, a 100% linear hexamethyldi-
soloxane, available from Dow Corning Corp.,
Midland, MI.
Generally, the compositions of Examples 1
through 30 were prepared in an identical manner. For
example, the composition of Example 1 was prepared by
first producing a premix of the ADO OE N 432ET and a
minor amount of ~oft water. Similarly, a second premix
including the cyclomethicone and the SURFADONE LP300
was prepared. The two premixes then were combined
and thoroughly admixed to form the main batch. Then
a third premix of the octoxynol-9 and the fragrance
was added to the main batch, and the resulting mixture
was stirred until homogeneous. The thickener then
was homogeneously dispersed in the major amount of
soft water, and the aqueous thickener dispersion was
added to the ~ain batch. After thorough blending,
the preservative was added to the resulting composi-
tion. The composition of Example 1, lacking the amido-
~mine compound and the polyhydric compound was an
emulsion-type product.
Similarly, the composition of Example 6 was
prepared by first producing a premix including the
hexylene glyco], the LEXAMINE S-13 and the lactic
acid. The premix was heated to about 150F to about
165F, then held at the elevated temperature for about
30 minutes. After cooling to about 100F, a second
premix including the ADOOE N 432ET and ethanol was
~g~
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added to the first premix, and the two premixes were
thoroughly blended until homogeneous. Then a previous-
ly prepared dispersion of the thickener and the major
portion of the soft water was added to the homogeneous
premix blend to form the main batch. Next, a previous-
ly-prepared third premix of the cyclomethicone and
SURFADONE LP300 was added to the main batch, followed
by the addition of a fourth premix including the oct-
oxynol-9 and fragrance. After thorough blending to
19 produce a clear, homogeneous composition, the preser-
vative was added to produce the composition of Example
6.
It was found that Examples 1 and 2, each
absent the polyhydric compound, i.e., hexylene glycol,
were emulsions as opposed to clear compositions. Simi-
.larly, Example 3, including the hexylene glycol butabsent the quaternary ammonium compound, AD0 OE N 432ET,
produced a hazy composition. Example 4, including
each of the five essential ingredients of the present
invention, was a hazy co~position9 thereby showing
that at least about 10% of the polyhydric compound
should be present in the composition. However, Example
6 demonstrates that the amount of polyhydric compound
can be reduced to below 10~, if an alcohol also is
included in the composition. Example 5 demonstrates
that an alcohol alone does not produce a clear composi-
tion, therefore requiring that a polyhydric compound
be present in the composition. Examples 7 through 12
demonstrate that increased amounts of hexylene glycol
further clarify the composition, with a clear composi-
tion resulting over the range of from about 10~ to
about 30% by weight hexylene glycol, and with maximum
clarity achieved at polyhydric compound levels of
from about 18% to about 22~ by weight of the comp~si-
tion.
Examples 13 through 24 were prepared todemonstrate the effect of omitting one of the essential
2 ~
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ingredients fr~m the composition, and to demonstrate
the effect of varying the amount of the essential
ingredients in the c~mposition. Therefore, ~xample
13 shows that a composition including only water and
four of the five essential ingredients, adjusted to
the proper pH, provides a clear conditioning composi-
tion if the ratio of SURFADONE L!?300 to cyclomethicone
is sufficiently high. Examples 13 through 15 demon-
strate that the amount of amidoamine compound, LEXAMINE
S-13, and/or the amount of the solubilizing nonionic
surfactant, SURFADONE LP300, can be varied to yield a
clear conditioning composition when the SURFADONE/sili-
cone ratio is at least about 4 to 1 even though the
ADOOE N 432ET is absent. Examples 14 through 17 show
that if the amount of amidoamine is increased signifi-
cantly, and the ratio of SURFADONE LP300 to cyclomethi-
cone is significantly reduced, a clear composition
absent the quaternary ammonium compound does not re-
sult.
Examples 18 through 21 demonstrate the effect
of eliminating at least one of the essential ingredi-
ents from the composition. In each of Examples 18
through 21, the composition was opaque and unstable,
separating into distinct aqueous and nonaqueous phases
within a short time period. Example 21 further shows
that an alcohol alone will not solubilize the cyclo-
methicone and SURFADOME LP300, and Example 19 shows
that the polyhydric compound alone will not solubilize
the cyclomethicone and SURFADONE LP300. Examples 22
through 24 showed that linear volatile silicones,
either dimethylpolysiloxanes or phenyl-substituted
dimethylpolysiloxanes are useful as the volatile con-
ditioning agent of the composition of the present
invention.
In addition, Examples 25 through 29 in TABLE
II show that a volatile hydrocarbon can be used as
the volatile conditioning agent in a clear hair-condi-
2 ~
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tioning composition of the present invention. ~he
compositions of Examples 25 through 29 were produced
by a method similar to producing the compositions of
Examples 1 through 24.
T~BLE II
Ingredient
(% by wei~ht) EX.25 EX.26EX.27EX.28 EX.29
Soft Water76.0075.00 75.9978.9974.00
1 o Volatile
Hydro-
carbonl)1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1~00
SURFADONE
LP300 3.00 4.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
(100~ by wt. active)
Hexylene
Glycol 18.02 18.02 16.22 13.52 lB.02
LEXAMINE S13 1.441044 1.30 1,0B 1.44
(100% by wt~ active)
20 Lactic Acid 0.540.54 0.~9 0.41 0.54
(85~ by wt. active)
Composition
Appearance: Clear Clear Cloudy Cloudy Clear
1) The volatile hydrocarbon used is an isoparaffinic
25 hydrocarbon including about 12 carbon atoms,
sold under the tradename PERMETHYL 99A, available
from Permethyl Corp., Frazer, PA.
From Examples 25 through 29 in TABLE II, it
was observed that a volatile hydrocarbon can be used
as the volatil~e conditioning agent to pr~vide a clear
conditioning composition of the present invention
~EXS. 25, 26 and 29). However, conditioning composi-
tions including a volatile hydrocarbon as the volatile
conditioning apparently are more sensitive to the
amount of polyhydric compound present in the composi-
tion. Examples 27 and 28 show that, even if the ratio-
-39-
of SURFADONE LP300 to volatile hydrocarbon is relative-
ly high, the composition is cloudy unless a sufficient
amount of polyhydric compound is included in the com-
position.
To demonstra~e that clear hair-conditioning
compositions including a quaternary ammonium compound,
an amidoamine of general structural formula (I) or
(II), a volatile conditioning agent, a solubilizing
nonionic surfactant and a polyhydric compound effec-
tively impart hair conditioning properties to treatedhair, particular compositions of ~xamples 1 through
12 were applied to hair. These particular compositions
were compared to two leading commercial hair condition-
ers, HAIR SPECIFICS and FINESSE, both available from
Helene Curtis, Inc.j Chicago, IL., for an ability to
impart hair conditioning properties the hair. In
contrast to the clear conditioning compositions of
the present invention (i.e., Example 12), both HAIR
SPECIFICS and FINESSE are traditional emulsion-type
hair conditioner products.
In particular, to demonstrate the improved
hair conditioning properties imparted to hair treated
with the composition of the present invention, the
composition of Example 12 was applied to human hair
and conditioning properties were compared to the con-
dition properties imparted by FINESSE or HAIR
SPECIFICSo A group of five trained judges rated hair
treated with the composition of Example 12 and either
the commercially available hair conditioner FINESSE
or the commercially-available hair conditioner HAIR
SPECIFICS in a salon evaluation. FINESSE includes a
quaternary ammonium compound, an amidoamine c~mpound
and a polydimethylsiloxane in a total amount of about
4.4% by weight. ~AIR SPECIFICS includes a quaternary
ammonium compound, dimethicone and a quaternized pro-
tein in a total amount of about 4~ by weight. Both
HAIR SPECIFICS ,and FINESSE are commercially available,
2~
-40-
with FINESSE being recognized as an exceptional hair
conditioning product and HAIR SPECIFICS being recog-
nized as a premium hair conditioning product. It
should be noted that in this subjective salon testing,
5 if a composit;on imparts hair conditioning properties
to treated hair equivalent to the properties imparted
by FINESSE, the composition is considered an excep-
tional conditioner because FINESSE is recognized as a
benchmark for hair conditioning performance. Accord-
ingly, if a composition imparts hair conditioningproperties to treated hair equivalent to properties
imparted by HAIR SPECIFICS, the composition is con-
sidered a premium conditioner because ~AIR SPECIFICS
is recognized as a superior hair-conditioner, but not
15 as efficacious as FINESSE.
In general, in a salon test the composition
of interest is applied to one side of a head of hair,
and the product used for comparison, i.e., either
FINESSE or HAIR SPECIFICS, is applied to the other
2~ side of the head. After the treatment, each side of
hair is judged for a variety of hair conditioning
properties by a panel of five trained judges on a
ranking of 1 unit (worst) to 5 units (best). Then
ratings of the judges for each hair conditioning pro-
perty are averaged, and a difference ;in rating oneside of hair compared to the other side of hair of at
leas~ 0.3 units is considered a significant difference
for that particular hair conditioning property. The
judges rate the hair for such hair conditioning proper-
ties as ease of application, fragrance, ease of rins-
ing, wet feel, wet comb, residue, dry combing, dry
feel, coating, flakes/dust, static, manageability,
condition of ends, sheen/luster, body, effect on hair
color, irritation and overall condition.
Accordingly, a clear composition of the
present invention, including 2~ by weight ADO OE N 432ET
1% by weight cyclomethicone, 2% by weight SURFADONE
LP300, 0.8% by weight LEXAMINE S-13 and 10% by weight
hexylene glycol (Ex. 30), was compared to the HAIR
SPECIFICS conditioner. It was found that in a salon
comparative test of the composition of Example 30 and
S HAIR SPEC~FICS conditioner, that a significant improve-
ment (i.e., at least 0.3 rating units) in wet feel,
dry feel, dry combing, coating, manageability, condi-
tion of ends, and overall condition was found in hair
treated with the composition of Example 30. It should
be noted that among the numerous hair conditioning
properties, the~e properties are considered the key
properties in regard to hair conditioning. Further-
more, for each of the twenty-one conditioning proper-
ties that were compared, the composition of Example
30 at least equalled the conditioning properties im-
parted by HAIR SPECIFICS.
In addition, an identical salon comparative
test was performed between the composition of Example
30 and FINESSE. In this comparative test~ the composi-
tion of Example 30 and FINESSE compared essentiallyidentically, except that FINE5SE demonstrated a 0.3
unit superiority in dry combing and dry feel. For
all the remaining hair conditioning propertie~, the
ratings between the composition of Example 30 and
FINESSE were identical or less than the significant
difference of 0.3 rating units. Considering the excep-
tional hair conditioning properties imparted to hair
by FINESSE, it is both surprising and unexpected for
a composition of the present invention (EX. 30) to
impart essentially the identical hair condi~ioning
properties to treated hair. Overall, the above salon
comparative tests demonstrate that the clear condition-
ing compositions of the present invention, including
a quaternary a~monium compound, a volatile conditioning
agent, an amidoamine compound, a solubilizing nonionic
surfactant, and a polyhydric compound, surprisingly
2 ~
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and unexpectedly possess an improved ability to impart
hair conditioning properties to hair.
Therefore, the method and composition of
the present invention impart exceptional hair condi-
tionin~ properties to treated hair usually demonstratedonly by premium hair conditioner compositions. It is
both surprising and unexpected for an aqueous composi-
tion of the present invention, including a water-
insoluble volatile conditioning agent, to be a consu-
mer-appealing clear product, to maintain product sta-
bility over long storage ~imes, and to impart such
excellent hair conditioning properties to treated
hair. The clear compositions of the present invention
coat the hair more effectively and also are especially
easy to rinse from the hair. Consequently, an improved
and more effective coating of the hair requires less
conditioner composition to be applied to the hair,
thereby also eeducing the amount of dulling, chemical
residue that coats the hair shaft.
In addition, the method of the present lnven-
tion provides the further benefits of not leavin~ the
hair tacky or sticky; not forming a crust and therefore
providing combability; and providing manageable and
styleable hair having b~dy. In addition, after treat-
ing the hair with the composi~ion of the present inven-
tion, the hair feels na~ural and thickened, has body,
is soft, shiny, manageable, and combable. These bene-
ficial effects can be achieved by using an aqueous
spray or aqueous solution formulation.
Obviously, many modifications and variations
of the invention as hereinbefore ~et forth can be
made without dleparting from the spirit and ~cope there-
of and therefore only such limitations should be im-
posed as are indicated by the appended claimsO
