Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
t` O ~. fl ? O ~ ~ . n
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S~OE L~ST 213 2 9 7 3
: '
:
~: FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This inventlon rela~es lo a shoe-making last tor mdnufacturing
t~otwear. More specific~lly, this invention relates to a last which is
physlologically closer to the natural shape ot a human foot than are conventional
shoe-malcing lasts.
BACKGR()UND OF THE lNyENTIoN
shoe-making last is ihe solid. three-dimensional mold over which
tootwear is made. The last~is firmlv mounled. and the pieces ot shoe material,
whelher upper or sole maten~ are placed around the last and a[tached to~ether to
ma~e the shoe. The last shape largely determines the shape or the shoe and how
it tlts and t`eels on the wearer s foot. Conse~uentlv. the shape o~ [he shoe-malcing
, ~
last is critical in order ~o make footwe~r wnich tl[s comtor~ablv !l the foot,~ ~ ,
provides adequa[e suoporr and pertorms esseneiallv as an extension ot the human
tool. as is desired.
AMENDE~ SHEET
WO 93/19633 ~ ' 2 1 3 2 9 7 3 PC~/US93/03H4~
--2 - .
Conventional shoe-malcing lasts and the footwear manufactured
using these conventional lasts have fallen short of the goal of providing footwear
which works in harrnony with the human foot. All currently available shoe-
mal~ng lasts have a flat sole surface which meets the upper last surface at
S approximatgly a 90O angle. The corner of the angle creates what is referred to as
a last bottom feather~ine which extends around the periphery of the bottom of the
last. When a last having a flat sole surface and a sharp angled featherline is
utilized to make a shoe, a stiff, flat sole piece must be placed on ~e fla~ bottom of
~he last and attached to the upper piece or pieces of the shoe. The flat sole
10 surface and angled featherline ar~ significant drawbacks of conventional la3ts
because the resulting footwear has rigid soles which underlie the foot so as to
~ficially support the foot on a stiff platform. Since the sd~f platforJn is flat, it
does no~ confo~n to the natural curves and arches of the bot~om of the human
f~t, and, as a ~esult, causes foot discomfort. Additionally, the human foot in
15 mo~ion has a tendency to want to fall off the end of the stif~ sole platform of the
shoe thus mcreasin~ the nsks of ankle injuries.
To offset some of the effects of the stiff platform on ~he human
foot, shoe manufacturers must artificially reinfor~e the underside of the wearer's
oot by placing a mass of material on the inside of the shoe to coincide with and
20 bolster the ~oot's natural arches. However, as can be appreciated, the natural
human foot neither has nor requires what is commonly referred to as "arch
support." The unnatural stiff support and arch re;nforcement in shoes made using
conventional shoe-making la~ts therefore result in a disharmony between the foot
WO 93/î9633 ; ' 2 1 ~ ~ 9 7 ~ PCr/U~93/03042
-3-
and the shoe which produces, among other things, foot discomfort, back pain and
an increased risk of injury.
- Conventional shoe-malcing lasts, in addition to having a flat sole
surface and a rigid featherline wher~ the sole meets the last upper surface, also
S have a heel section or h~el "seat" which is elevated vertically above the ball and
~oe section of ~he last when the ball and toe section is substantially horizontal.
The elevated heel seat of conventional lasts makes it n~essary to attach solid
heels to the resulting footwear to make it func~ion properly. A woman's shoe
with spike heels is illustrative. The elevated heel seat further makes the
10 conventional lasts different from the natural foot, because feet do not have
elevated heels. Additionally, in shoes made using conven~ional lasts, the risks of
ankle injury are increased with the necessary addition of a heel to the ~iff sole
:~ platform, because the foo~ in motion will now have a tendency to roll off of an
~elevated sole platform.
Conventional shoe-making lasts have a fr~nt toe section which
tapers to a point both in from the sides and top to bot~om from the base to the tip
of the toe section. The toe profile or "toe recede", as it is called, of conventional
lasts is angled along the length of the toe section from the base of the toe section
to the tip to create an ~ abrupt 90o angled ~atherline at the tip of the las~ toe
~20 section. Human toes are not tapered or shaped this way, but rather they maintain
~: a generally unif~rm thickness from the base to the tip of the toe and then
gradually taper at the end of the toe. Consequently, footwear manu~actured using
conventional lasts pinches the toes in sideways and from top to bottom, eausing
further foot discomfort. The tapered toe section of conYentional lasts also results
1 ,~ J~ f ~
w~
r ~ r 21 3 2 9 7 3
r r ~ r r ~ r f ~ r
. r ~ ~ r
in a continement ot the foot at the poinls most necessary tor propulsion, ~hat is,
the ball and toe region ot the tlat toot. ~dditionallv, conventional lasts are
essentially flat in the upper surf~ce above the heel seat and do not cQnforrn to the
curves of the fo,ot associated with the human ankle bones.
Summarizing, conventional shoe-making lasts do not provide
footwear which is anatomicallv in harmonY wi~h the natural human foot. The
shoes made trom conventional lasts support the t-oot on an a~tificial elevated s~iff
platform~ re~uire excess matenal to shore up the natural arches of the foot be~ause
it is supponed on a s~itf plattorm. blnd the t`oot al the toe and ball region and
generally restrict the :~OGt in motion and at rest.
It is theretore an objeclive to provide a shoe-making last which, is
physiologically more in harmony with the natural shape of the human foot than are
conYentional lasts. It is a turther objective ~o provide a last which can be used to
manutacture ~ootwear that operates as an extension of the human foot rather than
cvnhning and supportlng the toot unnaturallv. It is a still further objective of the
invention [o ~ke in~o accoun~ the dynamic shape ot a toot in motion.
International Patent Application WO91/17677
describes an integrated system for empirically measuring a
, ~ .
:~ customer's feet, determining the appropriate size dependent
~ on the customer's chosen footwear style, checking whether
: ~ :
. . a last exists in stock suitable for the customer and, if no
such last exists, manufacturing a unique last for the
~: customer. Footwear is then manufactured by use of the last ~~
: and delivered to the customer.
' AMENDED SH~ET
U.S. Patent 269956Z describes a process of maklng
AA1ENO~D SH~ET
P r ~ r r n c 21 3 2 9 7 3
r ~ I r r r r ; ~
- 4a -
foot casts in which the cast is severed, at the recess
between the toe and foot portions thereof, along a
horizontally curved line conforming to the curvature of the
xecess. The toe and foot portions are then rejoined via
spacing members to increase the longitudinal length of the
cast. The cast may be used to make a last.
A method of ma~ing a shoe last to be used in the
production of shoes, in accordance with the invention,
comprises providing a numerical measurement of foot length
to predefine a foot length reference, forming a solid last
with sides, a toe section, a heel section, a centre section
therebetween, an upper surface and a sole surface, and,
contouring the sole surface and upper surface of the last
~to reflect structural components of the human foot,
characterised in that the method includes increasing the
predefined foot length reference by 3 to 10% to generate a
::last length reference, forming the last to have a length
dimension which~corresponds to~the last length reference
and contouring the sole and upper surfaces so that the last
from the upper surface to the sole surface presents a
continuous curve free from a last bottom featherline.
A last for constructing a shoe to fit a selected
reference foot size, in accordance with the invention,
comprises a body including opposing sides, a toe section,
a heel section, a centre section therebetween, an upper
surface and a sole surface, characterised in that the body
is dimensioned longer than the dimensional length of the
corresponding reference foot by 3 to 10~ and in that the
A~E\IDEO SHE~T
n r ~ ~ ~ ~ r ~ ~! 1 3 2 ~ ;~ 3
r r r ~ ~
- 4b -
sole surface of the last is connected to the upper surface
by a continuous curve so that the last is free from the
last bottom featherline.
The shoe making last has a shape whih is generally
more consistent with the shape of a natural human foot than
are conventional lasts. The upper surface of the last
connects to the bottom sole surface of the last in a
continuous curve, wherein there is no sharp angl~d
featherline around the periphery of the sole section of the
~ last.
; ~ In a preferred embodiment a longitudinal arch
extends from essentially the ball area of the last sole
surface to the heeL seat of the sole surface and rises
smoothly from the plane
:` :
:
~ ~ .
AMEN~D SH~ET
2132973
u~o 93~19633 PCr/US93/03042
- of the ball area of the sole upward to its highest elevation and then smoothly b~ck
down again to the heel seat of the sole surface. The ball area al~d heel seat of the
sole surface are essentially in the same plane, i.e., the heel seat is not elevated
above the ball area as with conventional lasts.
S A lateral arch extends widthwise across the last and increases in
height to a maximum height on the inner side or instep side of the last. The
lateral arch intersects with the longitudinal arch, and as the lateral arch increases
in height from side-t~side across the width of the last sole surface, the
longitudinal arch also increases to reach its maximum height also at the inner side
10 of the last. The coordination of the intersecting longitudinal and lateral arches on
t he` last simulates the inward arch of the human foot. Furthermore, the
combination of the smooth transition between the last upper surface and the
bottom sole surface,~ and the longitudinal and lateral arches creates a last s~le
surface which is physiologically in harmony with the natu~al bottom surface of the
15~ human foot.
The front section of the last, or toe section, is generally free from
toe~recede and maintains a generally uniform thic~ess from the base of the t~e
h ~ section to the tip of the toe s~tion which gradually decr~ses down to the toe tip.
The~ t does~ not taper down to a sharp abmpt featherline at the ~ront tip of thelast as do the toe secdons of eoDventional lasts. The last does taper in thickness,
however, ~rorn the inner side of the last to the outer side of the last at the toe
;
j: :
section to simulate the size differential between-the thickness of the big toe and
,,
- ~ the thickness of the smallest toe. Similarly, the length of the toe sec~ion of the
last gradually tapers to a shorter length from the inner side of the last to ~he outer
3 J~
r ~ ~ 2 1 3 2 ~ 7 3
r r r r ~ ~
r ~ r
n ~ ~ ~ r r ~ r r
- r ~ ~ r ~-
-- 6 --
side to reflect varying toe tength unlike conventional lasts which unnalurally have
a dramatic width taper at the toe section of the last. Due to the lack of a lastbottom featherline, the upper surface ot the last in the toe region joins with the
sole surface in a smooth~ continuous curve.
In the upper part of the last, above the heel sea~, and on either side
of the last, ~re two projecting anlcle bone humps which mimic the medial and
lateral malleoli, or ankle bones, of ~he human toot. In this way, the footwear ~
made from the last contorms tO fit around the ankle bones
ot Ihe wearer
The last is dimensioned in length to reflect an
increase of
approximately 3-lO~o over the ~oot length reterence to which the last corresponds.
- : :
s~ per~centage increase in last length yields a last length reference used to form
the ~ast which takes into account the dynarnic length increases of a human foot in
moIion. ~ ~
An embodiment of the last also reflects a ast
~ `: : ~ . A .
:circumference reference as measured
approximately around the ball of the foot which is greater than the circumference
re~erence of the t-oot to which the last corresponds. Preterablv, the increase in
last circumference around the ball area of the last is approximately 1-6% over the
~,
foot circumference reference measuremenl of the corresponding toot.
:
~:: In a further embodiment, the
last instep reference measuremen~ and last h~el openin~ reterence measuremerlt on
~. :
AMEND~D SHET
' .
r~ 9 n r) 2
h~ lu
.r ~ r ~ rr
r ~ ~ r r
r ~ -~ r
~ 7
th I t reflect increases over the f~x!t
e as -- --
instep reference and foot heel opening me~surements of the toot to which the last
corresponds. As a result of these dimensional increases in the last. the shoe last
even further re,~lects the dimenslonal changes in the dynamic foot so that footwear
made from such a lasl fits the toot more comtortably and is more stable than
footwear made with convenllonal lasls.
: The various embodiments provide a uni~ue, non-
: conventional, shoe-
making last which has a;-shape more in harmony with the natural foot than do
convenlionai lasls. The unconventionai lack ot a tlat sole surtace on the last and
lhe~lack of a~distinct teatherline separating the sole surtace from the upper surface
allows the manutactunng of toolwear which does nol require a stiff platform for
artificially elevating and ~supporting the t-oot. Without a stiff support platform,
shoes made ~from the lasl: ~ ~ do not re~quire an aruficial
suppor~t~mass underneath the instep~ot the wearer s foot to otfset the effects of the
stlff sole. The ball~area`and the heel seat of the last lie in
the~ same ~piane and consequentiv. tootwear created trom the last
does no~ ~require an ~artlficial heel for attachment lo the bottom of the
shoe in order to mauntain proper functioning ot the shoe. The lateral and
longi~udinal ~rches of Ihe lasl cause the last lo generallv conform to the
natural curves ol Ihe human toot so as lo make footwear manutacture~d therewith
more or an exleosion oi the too~ than are those produced using conventional shoe-
making lasls. I~unhermore. Ihe increased relerence dimensions of the last over
he associalea dimensions Ot tlle lOOt tO wnich [he iast corresponds results in
:
production of footwear which accounts for the dvnamic shape of the foot and
END~ ^r
r ~`r ~ r r ~ s I r ~! 1 3 2 9 7 3
~ ~ ~ ~ r r r
r r ~ r r
~ ~ r r ~ -
-- 8
which does not constrict the t'oot while it is at rest or in motion, thus allowing the
foot to maintain its natural shape during all forms of weight bearing. As a result,
the footwear manufacture~ using the last is more
comfortable~ rnore stable. and functions more efficiently as,an.extension of thehuman t-oot than footwear; produced using conventional shoe-making last.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
These and other objects of Ihe invention are more fully understoc~d
with re~'erence to the t'oilowing description ot a preterre~d embodiment taken in
conjunction wilh the accompanvina drawin~s in which:
Fig. l is a bottom perspective view ot the shoe-making last in
accordance with the principles~ ot' the present invention;
Fig~ 2~ 1s a [op perspective view of the shoe-making last in
accordance with the principles of the present invenlion;
Fig. 3 is a side view ot the shoe-making las~ in accordance with the
pnnclples of the presen~ inventlon:
Fig. ~ Is`a~ ~'ront view o~` the shoe-making last in accordance with
the princlples of the ~presen[ lnvention;
Fig. S is;a lop vlew ot a shoe-making last in accordance wi~h the
principles of the~presen~t invention:
Fig. 6 1s a side view ot' a traditional shoe-tnaking last: and
Fig. 7 is a bottom view ot' a traditional shoe-makin~ las~.
DTAILED DESCRIPT~ON
Referring to Figures 1 and 2, a shoe-making last 5 ~- ~
is shown which has a shape generally of a human foot. Last
5 has a bottom sole surface
A~EN~V ~`~IEET
~ .
r ~ r ~ n ~ q S~
c r ~1 ~ r ~ f 3
r ~ ~ I
g
10 ha~ing a heel s~at 12 ~nd a ball area 14, and an upper surtace 16 which joins
sole surface 10 in a continuous curve 18 presenting a last which is free from the
angled last bottom teatherline ex~stent on all conventional sho,e-rnaking iasts. As
illustrated with re~érence to Figs. 5 and 6, all conventional lasts 19 have an upper
~: ,
surface 20 and a tlat. bottom surtace 22 which meets upper sur~ace 20 at a 90o
angle to form a rigid, angied teatherline 24 around the peripherv of sole surface,
. .
22. However. everywhere on last 5 upper surface 16
meets sole surtace~ 10 in a continuous. smooth curve 18 with no rigid featherline,
so that upper surlace 16 smoothlv connects wi[h soie surrace 10 around the entire
.
peripherv ot last ~ (see Fig ~ ) ~
Retemng again~to Fig. '. the absence of a flat sole surface 22 and
disunct last bo~lom t~ herllne~24 on last 5 allows the last
to;;be~used tO manu~tacture ;roo~wear which does not require a stiff sole platform at
he~bo~tom~or the shoé. as js necessarv with conven[ional last 19 ~Fig. 6). The
insi~d,e~ bottom ot a shoe ;~(not shown) manutac~ured us~ng last 5
conforms~ to the natural meeting ot Ihe t~p ot the~ human i'oot to the
bo~tom~sole~surtace. This presen~s tootwear more comforlable to the human
wéarer ~han -~radl~lonal shoes.~ because ~he inside bo~wm of a shoe manufacmre~
using last 5 ~vorks in harmonv: with rather Ihan against the human foot as do the
tlat.~ ngid shoe soies necessarv when using a convenlional last.
R~terrina now to Fig. 3, the ball area 1~ ot lasl ~ lies in a plane
and the heel se~t 12 lies in substantiallv the same plane. i.e~ there is no heel
elevation m ~he last . .~s illus~rated in Fig. 6.
conventional ias~s have heel seats 25 ~vhich are in a plane verticallv elevated above
, ~ ~ ~
AI~ENI}~D SHEET
r <~ o ; ~ ~ ~ r ~! 3L 3 2 9 7 3
~ r r r r r
r ~ r ~ r r
-- 10 --
the plane of the ball area 27 ot the conventional last. The r~sulting heel elevation
26 of the l9 re~uires a stiff heel to be added to the bottom of traditional footwear
to support the heel of the we~rer and to make the footwear function properly.
The lack of heel elevation in last S eliminates the ne~d to
have a stiff he I placed beneath the sole of the resulting footwear to make the
~footwear function properly. The freedom trom heel elevation 26. present in ~
conventional shoe-making lasts~ provides a last 5 that is further in harmony with
:: : :
t he natural shape ot a human toot than are convenlional lasts. Additionally, the
stiff. heel-elevated~ sole piattorm that is necessarv wilh the use ot conventional
lasts causes ankle and foot inJuries and exacerba~es existent injuries, because the
human ~oot in motion has a tendency tO roll or rall off of the stiff platform which
may be elevated an inch or more above the ground because of the heel. Howe~rer,
: ~ :` : :
us~ng last S ~ ~ ~ there is no 5ti~f, elevated sole platforrra
bene~th the toot. and ~he moving ~oot has a tendencv to roll inwardly or outwardly
like the bare human toot reducing Ihe many toot and anl~le injunes caused by stiff,
elwa~ed soles. ~
Turning ~now to Fig. 3, last 5 has a smooth lon~itudinal arch 30
which extends leng~hwlse on; Ihe sole surlace lO ot last S fr~m approximately
forward of heel seat l~ to approxima~elv rearward of ball area li. and a lateral
arch 3~ which extends widthwise across the last trom the outer side 3~ to the
,:
Inner side 36 of las~ ~ (Sæ Fig. 2). The combinalion ot longiludinal and lateral
arches. 3() and 3?, present a sole surtace lO which is phvsiologic~llv more in
.:
~ ` harmony wi~h the bottom surrace oi a na~urai human toot. Collventional lasts (See
:- :
- Figs. 6 and 7) ~o no( have curved arches on lheir sole surfaces ~ld as a result
AMND~O SHEET
.
1 32
~ r r r r r ~ 9 7 3
r ~ r r r r r < ; r ~ r
1 1 ~
footwear manufactured with conventional lasts does not conforrn to the bottom i~
contours of ~he human toot. Consen,uently, in conventional footwear there is a
gap between the foot of the wearer and the flat sole pl~tform on which the foot is
supported, which is not present in footwéar manufactured
using the last 5.
As best illustrated in Fi~s. I and 3, the lateral arch 32 and
longitudinal arch 30 intersect on sole surface 10 of last 5. The lateral arch 32nses as it extends trom the outer side 34 to the inner side 36 of last 5 to reach its
maximum ~erlical height ~9 at Doin~ 31 at the inner side 36 of last 5. l~e
longiludinal arch 30 ~xlends lengthwise on the sole surtace iO to span between
:
heel sea~ 12 and ball area 1~. Longiludinal arch 30, because of its intersectionwith la~er~i arch 3~, also increases in heignt as the lateral arch 32 increases in
height. Conse~uently, the longitudinal arch 30 has its lowest vertical height 38 at
the outer side 3~ of last ~ and its highest venical height 39 a~ the inner side 36 of
last 5 as indicated by point 31. Theretore. both the longitud~nal arch 30 and
lær~ ~ch 31 reach their~ m~imum vertical height 39 at point 31 at the inner side36 of last 5. The comb~na~on ot inter5ecting arches. 30 and 32, and the
simultaneous rise in height traversing across the width of sole surtace 10 simulates
the natural in-slep arch o~ a human toot and as a resull presen~s a sole surtace 10
even more ciosely in ha monv wilh a natural human toot than the sole surtace of a
conventional last. The maximum vertical height 39 of the
arches, 30 and 32, has a dimension of approximately 10 to
.
15~ of the total length 42 of the last 5 from the heel end "~
: 44 to the toe end 450 The maximum height 39 at point 31 is
- measured at a distance 43
.
~ENDED S3~E~T
:
n r r ~ r r ~ ~ r 21 3 2 9 f7 3
r ~ ~ r
-- 12 --
from the heel end 44 which is approximately l/3 the total length or "stick length"
42 of last ~. While iateral arch 32 rises t'rom outer side 34 to its maximum height
39 and then smoothly merges to m~et upper surface l6 of last 5, longitudinal arch
30 rises smoothly from the plane ot' heel sea~ l~ upward to a maximum height
(which height depends on its point ot' intersection with lateral arch 32) and then
smoothlv back down again to ball area l~ of last 5.
The stir'f~ ~la~ sole platt'orm which is necessar~ in footwear
manufactured using conventional lasts, when placed against a human t'oot, results
in a gap between the toot and the piattorm due to the natural in-step arch of the
foot. ~ To compensate sor this ~ap in rootwear manut'aclured using conventional
lasts, a mass of matenal is usuailv placed be~ween the sole platform and the inside
of ~he t'oot~ This rnass is placed therein under the pretense of giving arch support
to the t-oot. However~ Ihe na~ural human IOOt nei~her has nor needs arch support.
There~'ore, Ihe comblna~ion ot arch suppon and a stitf sole platform results in a
disharmonv between the ~human t'oot and t-ootwear manut'acture~ using
conYentlonal lasts~ On Ihe olher nand. ~ootwear man-lracturea using last 5
due to Ihe combination ot` the longi~udinal and lateral arches 30
and 32,~ respectively~ has a bottom sole surt'ace 10 which ~enerailY conforms to
the naturai in-step arch ot' the human t'oot. The contorming sole surface l0
eliminates Ihe necessitv or placin an artiticial mass ot' material above the sole of
: ~: :
the shoe to reinr'orce and bolster ~he r'oot`s natural in-slep arch.
Referring again to Fig. 3~ last ~ has a loe sec~ion 6~ which extends .._. -
from approxirna~ely the torward elld 6' ot' lonuitudinai arch 30 to lhe toe end 45
of last ~. As shown in Itle side prot~ile or' Fi~ oe section 60 maint;3ins
~E~ T
r - ~ r ~ r ~ r r ~ 2 ~ 3 2 9 7 3
r I r 1~
r ~ r
r ~ r ~ r r
1 3
generally a uniform thiclcness over its length from one end 62 to the tip of 45 of
last S, but gradually diminishes down to the tip 45 of last 5. In reterence to shoe-
making lasts, the term "toe recede" is defined as the slope ot the upper surfa~e 16
of the last from, the toe point 45 to the point of t-ull toe thickness, which is
proximate point 62 on last 5. On conventional lasts. as illustrated in Figs. 5 and
6, the last 19 has a ver~ det'inite toe recede as indicated by line 69 and angle ~. ~
Conventional last l9 tapers from upper surt'ace '0 to meet the flat sole surface 22
' at a 90' angle to cre~te the angled featherline 24 at the toe end 64 of last 19.
Furthermore. conventionai last 19 also radicailv [apers inward trom opposing
sides, 65 and 66~ [o point 67 at the t'ront ot' last 19. As may be appreciate~,
human toes do not ~aper radicallY t'rom the sides to a definite point nor do they
taper from top to bottom along their length to torm a shaIp, angled featherline.
Rather. human toes maintain a generallY uniform thickness from the base to the
tip of the toe (~,ith slight undulations along their ienath) and theY gradually taper
to the tip ot' the toe~ Theret'ore. Iast ~ is responsive to the
natural thiclcness of the human toes wnere convenIional lasts 19 are not.
At the tip 45 of toe sec~ion 60 and all around the ~'ront of last 5,
sole surface 10, proximaIe to ball area 1~ is connected to upper surface 16 by a
smooth curve 68. Therel'ore. [he last ~ is substantiallv t'ree trom convenlional toe
recede and has no dislinct t'eatherline a[ the toe end ~5 ot last 5 as is present in
.~
conventional lasts 19 (see Fig. 6). Reterring now tO Fig. 4, las~ 5 ~radually
tapers in thickness when rnoving t'rom inner side 36 to outer side 34 in Ihe
dire tion ot' arrow ~9. Tilis side-Io-side ~per rellects the decreas~d Ihicl;ness of
~he toes t'rom the big toe to ~he smailest ~oe on Ihe human t'oo~. F-)r e:~ample,
AMENDED SHEET
t~ ~ r r r ~ ~ t r ~ ~ r
~ r ~ r ~ r r r ~ r r r ~ ~1~ 2 9 7 3
r ~ 1r ~ r r ~ r r
r ~ ~ ~ r r
-- 14 --
while generally unitorm thiclcness is maintained in toe section 60 longitudinally in
the direction ot' arrow 47 from base 62 to tip 45, the thickness gradually tapers
from inner side 36 to outer side 34 in the direction of arro~,v,49. Therefore, the
smallest toe thickness of toe section 60 on last 5 is proximate to outer side 34
while the greatest toe thickness of toe section 60 is proximate to inner side 36 (see
F~g. 4). However, even proximate to the outer side 34, the thiclcness of the last
in toe section 60 along the direction of arrow ~7 will be generally uniform.
Additionally, as may be seen in Fig. ~, the length ot' toe section 60 gradually
decreases on last ~ movin~ rrom inner side 36 to outer side in the direction of
arrow 49. This gradual decrease in the length ot` last 5 simulates the natural
length difference on the human t'oot between Ihe big toe and the smallest toe,
erefore, ;last 5 _ ~ _ more closely resembles the natural shape
:
o~ in the human t`oot,~and consequentlv. shoes made t'rotn the last ~
do not constnct the foot at ahe toe and ball regions and cause foot
; ~ ~ di~comfort as does tootwear made with convenlional lasts.
The physiolo~y ot' the human t'oot, both sta~icallv ~when the foot is
at~rest),~and dynamically (when the t'oot is moving3, has been studied The
physical func~ionmg of the t'oo~ is discussed in applicant's patents~ U.S. Patent
1~ Nos. 4,619,058 and 4 942~6i8 which are incorporated herein by ret'erence While
[he above described shoe las~ discloses a last which is longer and ~-!ider than the
pre~etermine~d toot t'or which the last would be used to make a shoe~ in
accordance wi~h the pnnciples of the presen~ invenlion~ it has been empirically -~-
.,
determined that ~he dimensions ot' Ihe las[ shvuld be increased bv specit~ic amounts
over the size ot' the t-oo[ t'or which lhe las[ is used in (3rder tv more closely mimic
AMEND~D SHEET
:
2~32973
~yo 93/1g633 PCI /lJS93/03042
- 15-
- the natural spread and dimensional increase of the foot stmcture while the foot is
static and while It iS dynamic. ln other words a last which is used to make a
shoe for a defined foot size is made by dimensioning the last such that it is larger
than the defimed foot by certain empirically determined amounts. In this way the
S last S of the present invention has both a contoured sole surface 10 and
dimensions which more closely mimic the dynamic physiological shape of the
foot
When designing a last to build a shoe a measure of foot length is
defined as a reference and is ~assigned a foot size number. For example column 1
10 ~ of Table I below assigns a particular foot size number to a measurement of foot
iength to yleld a foot length refer~nce which is used to make the las~. Table 1 is
one~example of a series~ of foot length references and associated foot size numbers
which~might be used~ iD ~the last ~ndustry when designing lasts for making shoes to
ht ~ ticular sl--~foot. ~ A shoe-making last ~Is formed and dimensioned using a
15 ~ chosen~ f~t length reference so that a shoe manufactured using the last fits a foot
` which has a length ~that ls approximately the same as the predetermined foot length
reference. 9iice a~foot srze number has been~associated with each foot length
reference used~to~malce~ the last 5 the last 5~ yields a shoq which may be referred
to~by the~foot size~number of the last as opposed to its actual length. The foot
; 20~ ~ size number is~what~ consumers generally use when purchasing shoes to fit their
feet. Table 1 belour; illustrates one example of the ~oot size number-to-foot length
reference relationshlp:
:: :
. -
":-
~!132973
r ~ r ~ ~ r ~
r ~ r ~ ~ r ~ r r ~- ~ r
P r ~ r
r ~ r ~ r r . ~ - r r
r. ~ r r r ~ r
~ 16 ~
Table 1:
SELECTED HUMAN FOO'r LE1~Gl~ REFERENCES
AND POSSIBLE
.. .
Foot Length Foo~ gr~
Foot Size ~eference Re~ f~Ce
~umber (rnches) ( c ~ )
d 7-}1~ + 1/3~ 1~ 42t o og
~: '
- ,-!5/16" aO .~
+ li32 . ~o ~ t O C ~:
-5/8 a
S 8-15/16 a~
,~ 3 5 c r G C
6 ~ + 1/3
9-5/8 a4 4
~ ,
9-15/16 25 , ,~ 4
~ 6 ~ G ~ t o O g
! O- I ~ 32
~0-5/8
~ .
1 1 !0-15/16
5 ~ r c o ~.
~ ~ .
: : :
S 1~ + l/3~ 3i ~? t O C~
:-~ ; ' ' '
. .
AM~NOE ) SHEET
~7 r ~ .- o r 1~ e e r ~ ~ r r r r 2 1 3 2 9 7 3
. r ^ " r r r~ r r ~ r ~
~ 17 ~
As seen in Table 1. a t'oot size number ot 7 has been assigned to
45 , ' ''
correspond ~o the t'oot length ret'erence otl~% inches~ Theretore~ a last assigned a
foot size no. 7, would Iheorelically produce a shoe which fits a human foot which
a4 45 c~ , ' -- ~
is approximately¦(9% inches) in length. ~n turn. the shoe made from a size 7 last
will be designated as a size no. 7. Half sizes will generally correspond to a foot
length reterence which t'alls between [he t'oot length references given in Table l;
It mav be aDpreciated Ihat different slyles of shoes may t`it
differentlv, and theret'ore. a consumer that t'its into a shoe of one size ot' apa~icular stvle mav noi t`it into that same size in a shoe ot' a differenl stvle. ~t
'
rnay also be appreclated that ~he assigned toot size numbers are relative and for
reference onlv and mav be shit'ted upwardly and downwardly such as by making a
.24 - 't.~i c,--~
foot size 9, instead ot foot size 7~ correspond to a t'oot length reterence of(9-5/8)
inches. The rer'erence lengths and size numbers shown in the chart above are
, ~ -
~u~ilized by some t'oolwear manur'acturers. There are numerous other ret'erenc~
- scales ehat exist tor assig,ning a size to a particular human foot length; sorne
:: ~
metric, some Es~glish. some unique unto themseives. All~ however. can be
~ .
lranslated or converted to correspond closely with Table 1. The rer'erence point
for all of the reterence scales is an accurate measurernent ot [he length of the
:
human toot.
Tradi~ional lasts orîen vield shoes that reslrict the t'oot because
among other reasons. lhev ulilize a static toot leng~h rer'erence wilhout recognizing
[he dynamic components Of the toot. Tne shoe las~
takes into accounl lhe dvnamic l'aclors or' lhe l'oot during such molions ~s walking
~nd r,-unning. Throu~n studies Of lhe human bodv. ~he applicant has empiric~lly '
A~ ND~D StlEET
r ~ r, o ~ c r r 213 2 ~i 7 3
- ~ r ~ r r ~ ~ ~ r r ~ r
r r i r r ~ r ~ ~ r r ~ ` `
-- 18 --
determined various dimensions ot' the human t'oot which increase during motion.
The last _ reflects these dimensional changes to yield a shoe
last which contorms to the dynarnic physiological structure of the foot more
precisely than those conventional lasts, which do not take into account the
'
dynamic dimensional Increases nor have contoured surfaces and a sole surface free
of a last bottom fea~herline.
Throu~h studies of the human toot in motion, the applicant has
empincally determin~ed~lhat a last must be increased to be longer than the
predetermined t'oot lenPth ~reterence by approximatelv 3-10%. A last S increased
by~such an amount over a panicular t'oot length reference~produces a shoe which
fits~a~human t'oot having~a length ;approximatelv the same as the t'oot length
refèrence. and ~thus yieldsl a shoe which mav be ret'erred to with the predetern~ined
ot~slzè number assl~ned to~that t'oo~ length ret'erence. However, unlike a
'convénl~onal~last~ last 5, di~mensioned as such yields s~hoes which take into account
h~ the~dynam~c sha~ of~the~t'oor.~For example. re'e n ' to ~o~ slze no. 7, in
le~ the~ correspondi~ng ~'t^oot ~ len~th ret'erence~ ot~-5/8 inche~ is increased to~
' yield~a last length~rét'èrence whlch~Is approximatelyl(9~.9~1 to 10.59'inches~ ~s~
la'st length~ reterence~ is utilized to ma1ce last ~. ~ For each successive foot size
nurnber and correspondi'ng t'oot len ,th ret'erence.. the last length ret`erence
is ~founa~bv~addina 3-10% to the toot 1ength ret`erence. The
actual incre~se ot' the last ienglh references wiil; depend upon the style of shoe to
be'made with lhe las
ble~ ~ b~lo~v s~hows a senes of t'oo~ slze numbers~with ~ ~
correspondin_ t'oot size rer'erences ~nd one set of assaclated~ Iast length ret'erences
AMEND~D SHEET
,_~ e ~' .r`~tr~ r ~r, ~r~r~r~ 2I32973
19
which were generated as described above.
Column 4 of Table 2 indicates ~he specific percentage increase of the foot length
reference which would yield the associated- lasl length reference of last 5 as shown
in col. 3. As seen in column 4 ot Table 2, as the assigned foot size number
increases, the corresponding last length reterence retlects a decreasing percentage
length increase over the t`oot length reterence. For example, a toot size number 2
~o 1~ c v~~ ~
designates a ~oot iength reterence of(7-15/16 inches)and a corresponding last
l c .,_
length reterence ot`(8-35/64 inches)which corresponds to an increase over the foot
ize rererence or approxima~elv ~.68~o. Foo~ size number lS and ~he associated
31 ~a t 0-08 c~
ot length re~erence or~ 1/4 + 1132 inches)corresponds to a last length
4 ~ ~
reference of(12-57/64)inches which corresponds to an increase of 4.96% over the
foot~ length reterence. However. this is not necessarily always the case as the
increasing sizes may correspond to graduated increases of the t`oot size reférence
so Ihat the percentage increase remains fairiv cons[~t or increases. Table 2 only
glves~ one example or length increases.
~: `
. : :
,
AMEND~D S~
r ~ ~ o ~ r r ~ J 7 3
n ~ r .
r ~ r ~. r r n r
r ~ ~ r n ~ . r
~ 20 ~
~ble 2:
.
}:XAMPLE TABLE OF P(~SSIBLE
l,AST LENGTHS FC)R VARIOUS
FOOT SIZE REF ERENCES ~
Foot SL~e Last Size
Reference, C~ Reference, ~
Size (Inches) (Inches) %
.
- ~
(7-15/16) ~8-35/64) 7.68
~a ~?o ~4.. ~ .
(~ / 1 6) (~-35/64) 6. 82
~3~jot<~ c~ a
6(9- 1/~ 32) (9-57/64) 6.57
,~4 4~ ~o
7(9-s/8j (10-15/64) 6.33
25 ~4 26 ~o~
8(~9-15/16) (10-35/64) 6.13
;L6 o4 t O G~ G6
9 ( 10-1/4 + 1/32~ (10-57/643 5 93
16 99 ~ i4
cl0-5/8) (1 1-lS/64)5.74
B ~9 .33
10-15/16) (11-35/6~) 5.57
2~ ~ ~ t c~ ~ ~3a ;~3 :
t l/32) ~ ~1 1-5716~1) 5 40
3i l~ t o-~ 3~- ~4
- ~C 1~ + 1/13) (12-57/64J 4.96
:~ : :
,
:. :
The length 42 of last s, which is referred to as the
stlck length, is
incre~sed ~o be lonver 1han Ihe predetermined too~ iength reterence 10 which thelast corresponds. .-~. shoe Droduced from a last made using the last len~th
reterence is made [o 1l~ a human foot which has a len_~h approximatelv the same
AMEND~D SHEi--T
.
r ~ ~ ~ r ~ r ~ r r r 2 il ~3 ~ 9 ~7 ~
- r r ~ r ~ r
~ 21 ~
as the initial fool length ret'erence. The increase in the length ot the last as
.
indicat2d by the last length ret'erence incorporates she dvnarnic lengthening of the
foot during motion and~ therefore, provides a last 5 which corresporlds to a human
foot better ~han, traditional lasts. As seen trom Table 2, the increase of the f~ot
length ret'erence yields a last lenglh ret'erence that is generally between 3 and 10%
above the length ot' comparable t'oot sizes. However. the actual percentage
increase of the foot length reference to yield a last length reterence may be varied
by a person o~' ordinary slcill in the art to yield a last length reference outside of
the prererre~a percen~age ranPes
Ret`emng to ~ig. ~, the stick length 42 of last ~ is measured from
the end point 45 of the ~oe section 60 to the end point 44 al the heel end of la~t 5.
The increase in last
:: :
length frorn the predetermined t'oo~ length ret'erence is not made only in ~he toe
secuon 60 so as to yield a longer toe seclion 60, but rather~ the last ~ is increase~d
along the entire stick lenglh ~2 of last 5. It has been physiologicallv determined
: : :
that when a t`oot increases in }ength due to weightbearing and motion. ihe
~ ,
longitudinal arch ot' the t'oot generaily moves both toEw~rd and backward as it is
:
~, depressed downwardlv t~rom above. Therer'ore. when increasing lasl ~ from a foot
length reterence in order to vield a last leng~h ret'erencej
the increase in length is made bo~h l'orwardlv of ~he iast ~ in the loe section 60
and rear.vardlv in the heel seat 1~ in ~he direction ot' heel end 1~'. and generally _ _
equallv in both directions ~rom appro~lmateiv pOil-l 31.
AMEND~D SHEET
r ~ r r ~ r r ~ ~ ~ r r r 2 1 3 2 9 7 3
r
~ 22 ~
The last
5 ta~es into aecount other dimensional changes in Ihe dynamic human foot. llle
foot, in addition to increasing in len~th during motion, also increases in
.: .. .
circumference around the heads of the metatarsals. The héads of the metatarsals
are proximate to the ball region of the toot. ~t has been determined that
increasing the circum~erence measurement around the heads of the metatars~ls,
that is~ increasing the toot circumterence reterence, yields a last circumference
;reference that will result in a las~ that produces a more comfortable and rnore
physiologicallY correct shoe. Ret'errin~ tO Figs. I and 2. Iine 73 in the ball area
14 of last 5 indicates where the last circumt'erence is measure~. The last
cirG~lmterence measured around line 73 in the ball area 14 of last 5 retlects the
ncreased last circumference ret'erence that is greater than the foot circumference
rneasurement ot' the reference t'oot. ~t has t'urther been determined that an incrcase
of approximately 1-6~% ot Ihe ~'oot circumt'erence reference yields a last that
effectlvely reflects the dimensional changes of the foot.
:It~:should be~understood that the range of increase is a
preferred range. Therefore, beginning with the
circumference ~ :~
around the heads of the met~tarsals ot' the rer'erence t`oo~ t'or which the last is
Intended. a last clrcumt'erence ret'erence t'or last S is pret'erably estab}ished by
,
increasing the t'oot circumr'erence reterence by approximately 1-6%.
'.~:: .
In one embodiment ot' lhe t'oot last ~ : the ~ _
- ~, ~4 c ._
last circum~'erence ret'erence is increased ~;-l inch)t'or each increase in ~'oot size
,~ :
: ~ number or' lhe last. (See col. I ot Table 1.) For e~arnple. the last circum~'erence
::
.
AMND~D SHEET
. .
~ , r~ r r -: r~ ' ~ r` ~
"~ o ~ r
r r ~ r ~ r ,~ r
-- 23 -- -
o ~4 c w~
reterence is incre~sed (~/~ ot' ~n inch)when the associated last length ret'erence is
increased from last size number 8 to last size number 9. Of course, the exact
percentage increase of the t'oot circumference reterence to yield the last
circumference Jnay be varied. Theret'ore~ the combination of a last which is
increased in length and circumt'erence in comparison to the foot size to which it
corresponds in accompanimenl with lack ot the last bottorn featherline on the last
5 yields a last whlch produces tootwear that is more comtortable and more stable,
and funclions more et'ficientlv on [he human toot than tootwear using conventional
shoe-ma~ng ~asts.
Last '5
mày have a heel openlng~which is greater than the t'oot heel opening ot' the
CotTe5poDding ret'erence t'oot.~ Refemng again to Fig. 3, the last heel opening is
designa~ed as ~he clrcumterence ~measurement around l;ne 74 which extends
around last ~ from~ a point 75 ~on upper surt`ace 16 to a point 76 proximate the he~l
seat~l2~and the proxlma~e~poin~ 4~ ot' the heel. ~ To establlsh~ a toot heel opening
ref,erence. a'm~asuremen~ s~made ~round ~he reterence roo~ at similar points. It
has ~been d~termlned that increasing the ~'oot heel opening ret'erence measurement
byi;up to 6% to generate a~ iast heel opening reterence to t'orm a last 5. ~urther
enhances the ol)eration ;ol làsl 5 lo yield more phvsiologicallv correct footwear.
Agaln. Ihe percentage ran~e ot' incre~se is a preferred range, and a last hePI
openln~ rer'erence ~ha~ ls greater than 6~o may produce a last sut~lclent sor a
particular tvpe shoei ~'
It has furtller beel1 determinea that incre~sing the ins~ep
, ~
measuremenl ot' ~he reterence l'ool to ~enerale a lasl inslep reference and using
AMEN~E~ SH~ET
f r ~ r r ~ ~ G f r ~ f~ 2 ~L 3 2 9
7 3
r ~ r r f~ r
r f r f ^
~ /` G f! (~ ~
-- 24 --
that last instep reterence lo t-orm a last turther enhances the operation of last S.
The last instep reterence is reflected on last S bv line 77 which extends around
last 5 betwe~n point 78 proximate point 75 and the point 31 which is located on
the sole surfac,e 10 at the maximum height 39 of longitudinal arch 32 on the instep
side 36 of last 5. Preferablv, an increase of up to 2% of the foot instep
measurement IO yleld a las~ Ins~ep reference will result in a last which produces~
shoes which are more comton~ble on Ihe teet.
Ankle bone humps 70 and 72 (see Fig. 4) are formed
on the
upper sur~ce 16 of last;5 a~ove and slightlv torward of heel seat 12. These
humps, ;70 and 72, simulate the medial (inward) and lateral ~outwa~d) malle~li, or
ankle ~bones, of the~human~oot, and result in footwear which conforms to the
anlcle bones ot the human toot.
~ ~ .
~,
,: ~
- ~ - :
AMEND~D SHEET
:
