Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
CA 02135867 2002-06-19
CUSTOMIZABLE GARMENT FORM SYSTEM
Background--Field of Invention
This invention relates to garment forms and retail display mannequins for
women and men,
specifically to a form method which can accommodate the design, fitting, and
displaying of many
body shapes.
Background-Description of Prior Art
Numerous garment forms exist on the market to help designers, dressmakers, and
tailors
make well-fitting dresses, blouses, skirts, jackets, and other garments.
Invariably, these garment
forms reproduce, as closely as possible, the body measurements of a particular
individual, or
group of individuals, for whom the clothes are being made. Some garment forms
adjust so that as
body measurements change, corresponding changes can be made in the garment
form.
U.S. patent 3,734,362 to Arthur (1973), discloses a garment form consisting of
a pYurality
of sections that are adjustable. The overall circumferential size of the
portions can be increased or
decreased by setting dials for each part of the form. However, adjustments by
the dials are made
to general body measurements. Singularities such as buttocks, thighs, curved
hacks or a stomach,
are not accommodated on this form. Also, the separability of the sections
makes the garment
form unstable when enlarged. Lastly, the garment form has an outside layer
which is made of a
hard material which will not accept pins for attaching fabric to the form.
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U. S. patent 3,525,458 to Mason and Stewart ( 1970) discloses a garment form
made of a
resilient foam material that allows pins to be inserted into the form. This
garment form is a large
pinnable, shapeless cylinder which is shaped by a corset-like cover at the
waist, and at the bust by
the user's brassiere. Separate pads also shape the brassiere. However, the
cover is not
interchangeable with other garment forms. Also, the cover does not accommodate
body
singularities, such as hips, thighs, curved backs, or large buttocks. Finally,
garment forms of
resilient foam bases are unstable for professional draping.
These and other professional garment forms do not allow tailors to make
perfectly fitted
garments because they are not made to exact body measurements. As stated in
"One Size Fits All
the Way to Middle Age" by Bruno Ferri, (New York Times February, 1993),
president of Wolf
Form Company, body changes are a function of aging, not of diet and exercise.
"Shoulders, for
example, rotate forward (as one ages) so blouses stretch across the shoulder
blades and are loose
across the chest". Sixty years ago, he said, a size 10 dress form had a 34.5
inch bust, a 24.5 inch
waist and a 34.5 inch hipline. Today there is no standard size 10 and the
smallest size 10 form
Wolf makes has a 35.5 inch bust, a 26 inch waist and a 37 inch hipline. This
article depicts a
garment form custom made to standard overall body measurements. This form,
however, does
not accommodate individual singularities within most normal figures. Even the
most professional
and expensive garment forms, as presently exist, do not sufficiently
accommodate unique body
types, since body proportions vary substantially from one person to the next.
U. S. patent 3,907,107 to Vercollone ( 1975), discloses a garment form kit
which can be
assembled and customized by the consumer. It involves fitting pattern sections
to an individual
and then spraying the pieces with adhesive and adhering them together to form
a solid fabric foam
laminate. Although this form does allow for singularities, it can be
successful on only one
individual. Also, the hard shell will not accept pins.
Similarly, Suzanne Pierrette Stern, (Threads Magazine, January 1993), shows a
way of
individualizing a garment form. It involves padding an existing garment form
with lambswool
adhered to the form with fusible thin material. The form is then covered with
a fabric shell
customized to the individual's body measurements. This is a useful, yet time
consuming, mode of
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approaching professional draping. This method can be successful for only one
individual, as the
cover cannot easily be removed and replaced.
When using current garment forms, the dressmaker or tailor must estimate where
and how
much to modify the professional or commercial pattern in order to accommodate
differences iw
body singularities. This is difficult to do and leads to time consuming,
repeat fittings and
alterations. Most dressmakers and tailors end up fitting the garment to the
form after it is partially
assembled and estimating the changes that must be made to make the garment
fit. Estimating
changes is a difficult and time consuming process. Merely estimating the exact
dimensions of an
individual on the garment form consequently leads to great error in fitting.
It requires the ability
to analyze the particular problem and formulate steps needed to correct it.
Not even the most
professional pattern makers can eliminate errors in this process. Then, there
is always the
possibility that the user has already cut away the needed fabric to make the
required corrections.
To summarize, all prior-art forms and methods of individualizing garment model
forms
suffer from the following disadvantages:
(a) Professional garment forms do not allow for singularities and
abnormalities in
body measurements.
(b) Presently available adjustable forms are not stable for draping when the
sections are
enlarged.
(c) Customized forms are not interchangeable to accommodate several different
body
types using the same form.
(d) Currently available adjustable forms only allow for enlargements in major
sections of
the body.
(e) Dressmakers and tailors must estimate measurements on existing forms to
accommodate body singularities, thus requiring expensive and time consuming
repeat fittings.
(fj Most non-professional garment forms do not allow pinning.
(g) Used or older models of garment forms usually do not fit the larger more
contemporary figure due to body changes.
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(h) New garment forms are costly.
These and other difficulties with conventional garment forms and other garment
form
enhancers lessen the capacity to facilitate the making of custom fitting
garments.
Objects and advantages
Accordingly, several objects and advantages of my invention are:
(a) to provide a system of individualizing existing professional or custom
garment forms,
by using a series of detachable, pre-formed, foam pads,
(b) to provide a system of enlarging the dimensions of a garment form to allow
for
singularities of the body, without interfering with the stability of the form,
(c) to provide a system that can accommodate most singularities and
abnormalities
of many individuals using the same basic garment form,
(d) to provide a system that can expand the dimensions of certain areas on a
garment form or reduce dimensions by detaching previously attached pads,
(e) to provide a system that eliminates estimating measurements on patterns to
accommodate body singularities, and thus time consuming repeat fittings,
(f) to provide a system that allows pins to be inserted into the form and
without
interfering with the stability of the form,
(g) to provide a system that will accommodate aging body singularities, as
well as
"perfect" figures,
(h) to provide an inexpensive system of enlarging existing professional or
custom
garment forms,
(i) to provide a system that can alter the dress form to accommodate different
proportions of height between vertical body measurements, and
(j) to provide a system that easily adapts to use with most models and sizes
of
existing garment forms.
Further objects and advantages are to provide a system that is easily removed,
easily
stored, and easily replaced on the form when needed, and to provide an
improved method of
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adapting professional and commercial patterns to the appropriate measurements
of the body. This
system is simple to use, inexpensive to manufacture, and provides a method
that accommodates
every body type for more perfectly fitting clothes.
Still further objects and advantages will become apparent when considering the
ensuing
description and drawings.
Drawing Figures
In the drawings, paired figures have the same numbers and letters (L and R) to
indicate
left and right.
Fig. 1 shows a stretch cover in accordance with the invention as it appears on
a form for
women.
Fig. 2 shows a perspective view of foam pads on the form, as they appear under
the stretch cover for women, in accordance with the invention.
Fig. 3 shows a more detailed portrait of the foam with longitudinal seams
where
needed for women.
Fig. 3a shows a detailed description of the foam with longitudinal seams where
needed on
the men's garment form,
Fig. 4 shows a front perspective view of the foam attached under a men's
garment form
stretch cover,
Fig. 5 shows a back perspective view of the foam attached under the men's
stretch
cover,
Fig. 6 shows a detailed measurement chart that allows for singularities and
abnormalities
on any individual woman's body type,
Fig. 7 shows a detailed men's measurement chart that allows for singularities
and
abnormalities, in accordance with the invention.
Reference Numerals In Drawings
18 (L)(R) contoured shoulder pads (for women)
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20 upper back (for women and men)
22 (L)(R) side back {for women)
24 (L)(R) bust
26 waist (for women)
28 stomach (for women)
30 (L)(R) upper hip (for women)
32 {L)(R) lower thigh (for women)
34 (L)(R) back hip (for women)
36 additional foam inserts
38 stretch cover (for women)
40 drawstring
42 pressure sensitive double-sided adhesive
44 (L)(R) shoulder pads (for men)
44a foam pad position identification
46 (L)(R) upper side back (for men)
48 neck (for men)
SO waist (for men)
52 (L)(R) front chest {for men)
54 stomach (for men)
58 longitudinal seam on foam pad
60 seams on stretch cover (men and women)
62 men's stretch cover
64 existing garment form (for women)
66 existing garment form (for rnen)
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Summary
According to one aspect of the invention, there is provided a kit for
modifying
the shape of a body form to conform the body form to various human shapes; the
kit
comprising a plurality of pairs of bust pads, each of said pairs of bust pads
of a
different shape; a plurality of pairs of hip pads, each of said pairs of hip
pads of a
different size; a plurality of pairs of buttock pads, each of said pairs of
buttock pads of
a different size; a plurality of stomach pads, each of said stomach pads of a
dif ferent
size; a plurality of pairs of shoulder pads; a measurement chart for recording
selected
measurements of an actual human body for further transposition to the body
from,
thereby locating selected positions on said body form for placement of the at
least
some of a pair of bust pads, a pair of buttock pads, a stomach pad and a pair
of
shoulder pads on said body form; elastic cover means :for placement over said
body
form with at least some of said pads positioned on said body form at said
selected
positions.
In accordance with the invention a customizable garment form system is
provided as a kit comprised of a group of contoured foam pads which have
varying
thicknesses (Figs. 3 and 3a).
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The pads are made of pliable and smooth foam and are applied to a garment form
(Figs. 2, 4, and
5) with industrial adhesive backing. 'they are further secured by an elastic
outer cover (Figs. 1
and 4). The foam pads (with the elastic cover) hold pins firmly, so as to
provide a stable,
individualized garment form. The pads are contoured in varying thicknesses.
Description--Figs. 3 and 3a--Pads
As shown in Figs. 3 and 3a, form adjustment kit consists of a set of pads
which are
supplied in pairs (except where not needed) that can be attached to the
appropriate area of a
garment form (shown in broken lines at b4 and 66 in Figs. 1, 2, 4 and S). The
pads for a woman's
form, as shown in Fig. 3, include a pair of shoulder pads 18, an upper back
pad 20,a pair of side
back pads 22, a pair of bust pads 24, a waist pad 26, a stomach pad 28, a pair
of upper hip pads
30, a pair of lower thigh pads 32, and a pair of back hip pads 34. The kit
therefore includes 15
foam pads. These pads are 1/2" thick. The kit can also include a duplicate set
of pads which
are 3/4" thick. Further, it includes 10 foam cushions 36 in 1/4" thickness,
and a stretch cover 38
with a drawstring 40 at the bottom.
The set of pads for a man's form include a pair of shoulder pads 44, a pair of
upper back
pads 20, a pair of side back pads 46, a waist pad 50, a pair of upper hip pads
30, a pair of fiont
chest pads 52, a neck pad 48 and a stomach pad 54. The kit includes 13 foam
pads in 1/2"
thicknesses, 10 additional faam cushions 36 in 1/4" thickness, and a stretch
cover or elastic cover 62
with a drawstring 40 at the bottom. The men's kit can also include a duplicate
set of pads which are
3/4" thick. Each pad is shaped as indicated so as to fit on its corresponding
part of form 64 and 66 to
enlarge that part in the correct proportion.
In the preferred embodiment the pads are made of foam, although they can be
made of
any other pliable material that can be used repeatedly, such as rubber or
cellular plastic. The pads
should accept pins and duplicate individual body singularities on any standard
garment form.
Each foam pad is stamped on the back to easily identify its appropriate
position on the
form. For example, as shown in Fig. 3a, shoulder pad 44a is indicated by
"stamp position" on the
underside of the pad, which in this case would be "shoulder".
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An elastic cover 38 and 62 (Figs. 1 and 4) is used to cover the form after the
pads are
attached. Seams 60 (Figs. I and 4) on cover 38 and 62 also match longitudinal
seams 58 on pads
22, 30, 34, 46 and 52 (Figs. 3 and 3a). All of the seams should be vertical
when the pads are
attached to the form. This provides a smooth surface for pinning and draping
when the seams on
the cover are matched to the seams on the pads.
A 1" square 42 (Fig. 3) of pressure-sensitive, industrial adhesive with
stickum on both
sides is attached to the back of each foam pad. The adhesive attaches very
securely to the foam
pads, yet it can be easily removed and replaced many times due to different
surface textures on
most garment forms. Therefore, many different body types can use the original
form for a more
perfect fit.
In order to duplicate larger sizes, ten 3" round foam pieces 36 (Figs. and 3a)
are included
in each kit. These small foam pieces can be attached to the back of any foam
pad to enlarge the
dimensions of the pad even further. The additional foam pieces are backed with
industrial stickum
on both sides for attachment to the pad and to the garment form.
.Stretch Cover---Figs. 1 and 4
After the pads are attached to the form (explained below) the stretch cover
(Figs. I and 4)
is then placed over the garment form and tied at the base with a drawstring 40
to further secure
the foam pads. As the stretch cover is pulled down over the form, it further
shapes the soft,
pliable foam pads by contouring them to the form. The pads can be applied to
most existing
garment forms. The system allows easy pinning, even when the existing garment
form is made of
a hard material that does not normally accept pins. The stretch cover is
provided in men's and
women's size ranges, in order to fit a variety of forms.
Each kit is accompanied by a measurement chart (Figs. 6 and 6a) that considers
most
singularities in different body types. Each measurement is taken in half
measurements on the
chart, to allow for singularities, such as a broad back or large bust. The
measurement chart
indicates where each pad should be attached so as to duplicate as closely as
possible the
measurements of the individual. For example, a woman with a 37" bust can be
accommodated on
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a size 10 form with a 36" bust by attaching foam pads to the front or back
according to her body
singularities. If the front bust is larger than the back, the I/2" pads 24
would be attached to the
front of the form to duplicate the 37" measurement. A woman with a broad back
would be
duplicated on the form by adding I/2" pads 22 to the back, and leaving offthe
front bust pads.
Operation
The first step in using the system is to obtain the exact measurements for
whom clothing is
to be made, according to the measurement chart (Figs. 6 and 7). The separation
of front and back
measurements on the chart indicates where the pads are needed. The tailor or
dressmaker
measures each horizontal measurement separately, in order to account for the
position of the
pads. Taller or shorter women are accommodated by placing the pads higher or
lower according
to the vertical measurements on the chart. For example, suppose a dressmaker
wants to duplicate
a woman with a 20" front bust, a 17"back, a 28" waist, a 35" stomach, 38"
buttocks, and 34"
upper-hips on a standard size 10 dress form that measures a 19" front bust, a
16" back, a 26"
waist, a 32" stomach and 36" buttocks. The dressmaker chooses from the kit
(Figs. 3 and 3a) the
appropriate thickness and position of foam pads needed to enlarge the
measurements of the
existing form. The dressmaker would then add 1/2" pads 24 to the bust, 22 to
the side back, 30
to the upper hip, 28 to the stomach and 34 to the back hip. Thus, the
measurements of the
individual are duplicated on the form.
Square 42 of double-sided adhesive on the back of each pad enables the pads to
be
applied by folding back the cover over the adhesive and applying the pad to
the appropriate area,
as stamped on back 44a of the pad. Additional foam cushions 36 with self
adhesive backing can
be applied to the back of any foam pad to increase the thickness in 1/4"
increments. The same
procedure is repeated to duplicate a man's measurements on a garment form.
Once the closest
approximation to the individual's measurements has been achieved, elastic
cover 38 and 62 (Figs. l
and 4) is stretched over the padded form. The cover is first held over the
form, stretched widely,
and brought slowly down to cover the form so as not to displace the pads.
Seams 60 on the
stretch cover are matched to the seams on foam pads 44a until the form is
completely covered
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and there is a tight fit. The fabric at the bottom of the cover is then
gathered together and tied
tightly with the supplied drawstring 40. The padded covered form, thereupon
duplicates the
individual's measurements and is stable and suitable for pinning, fitting and
draping.
Thus, the pads enable a form to be enlarged to a wide range of individual
measurements
and also customizes individual singularities that do not appear in the overall
measurements. Only
with this type of system can a tailor perfectly reproduce (for example) a
woman with a large
stomach and small buttocks on a garment form. These types of dimensions, not
apparent in the
overall measurements, can be exactly reproduced on the form. The designer can
add a pad to the
stomach and leave off pads on the buttocks of the form. The measurement chart
(Figs. 6 and 7),
detail the vertical and horizontal position of the pads for duplicating exact
body singularities.
Accordingly, the form can be used to correct most professional and commercial
patterns.
Thus, modifications to the commercial pattern need not be merely estimated.
The dressmaker or
tailor simply pins the pattern pieces to the individualized form , and thus
will show where the
alterations are needed. The needed alterations are readily apparent and can be
marked on the
pattern. Accordingly, well-fitting clothes can be made from commercial
patterns in most styles.
The technique disclosed here greatly simplifies the art of designing,
dressmaking, and
tailoring. The kit for individualizing an existing professional or commercial
garment form is
inexpensive, and the components, when used as directed, will allow most
garment forms to match
the needs of the individual in terms of singularities, ease, and comfort.
Summary, Ramifications and Scope
The reader will see that I have provided a kit to enhance a garment form that
can
duplicate, as closely as possible, the body measurements of an individual. The
system can be used
by persons from students to professionals in manufacturing, theatrical
costuming, or home use.
Its value can range from testing fashion designs for any size woman from buxom
to stout. The
system can enlarge and individualize most existing garment forms, new or used.
It can
accommodate several different body types using the same form. The system can
duplicate exact
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body contour and dimensions accommodating abnormalities and singularities on
any size or model
form. The customizable garment form system is inexpensive to manufacture and
easy to use.
While my above description contains many specificities, these should not be
construed as
limitations on the scope of the invention, but rather, as an exemplification
of one preferred
embodiment thereof. Many other variations are possible. For example, foam pads
can be made
from other pliable materials, such as rubber or cellular plastic. The pads can
be molded without
seams. The pads can be attached to the form by means of an inside liner, with
hook and loop
fasteners, inside pockets, or other means of attachment to the inside or
outside cover. The cover
can be made of another kind of fabric, or secured with a zipper rather than a
stretch cover with a
drawstring. The cover can be made of foam to enlarge a half body form.
Additions can be added
to the cover as custom ordered. Foam pads can be offered in varying
thicknesses and sizes
without the use of additional foam backings.
Thus, the scope of the invention should be determined by the appended claims
and their
legal equivalents, rather than the examples given.
