Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
_~ w096103964 P~J,~
~ 9 5 9 6~
COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS AND PROCESSES
FOR MANUFACTURE THEREOF
FiPI~ of thP Invention
The present mvention relates to cosmetic make-up ~ r - and more p~LiCul~ly, to
pigmented foundation make-up , having improved coverage together with
excellcnt . ~ d--~i.... crr~~ , application ~ skin feel and
a~r The present invention also relates to processes for r ~ ~ cosmetic
make-up ~ A ~ which provide a convenient means for shade adjustment of the
said: ,
E ~ ' of the Invcntion
A foundation ~ , can be applied to the face and other parts of the body to even
skin tone and texture and to hide pores, . f~liu..~, fine lines and the like.
P~ ,uLlJ suitable foundation . are available in the fonn of liquid or creamemulsions, and gels.
Such , are typically made by i ~ a mixture of pigmcnts into a
liquid base. The pigments, commonly based on iron oxides, titanium dio~dde, or
mib~tures thereof, are chosen such that they provide desirable skin tones when the product
is applied to the skin. The process for i..~ll ~ the pigments often requires a
milling stage in order to control the pigment dispersion and thus provide smooth and
even coverage of the skin.
As a s ~ of variances in raw materials and 1~ --: ", batches of finished
product may deviate in colour from the target shade. Routine ' usually
allows for a final shade adjustment of each liquid foundation batch. Since the pigments
used cannot usually ~ .udl~ be addcd to the finished product without first p~
wetting them in either the oil or water phase, a common practice is to prepare
~ IIIaLi~, batches of finished product specifically for the purpose of fLnal shade
r ~ju The noed to prepare these ' - batches incrcases the complexity
and cost of the I ' ~ process.
WO 96103964 !1 . ~'. PCIIUS95/087~5 ~
2 ~ 9 5 q ~ 0
Quite apart from, -, r-l n~ g ~ c~ users of foundation ~n ~ l;n~ often
express ~ r~ with the degree of caverage of the skin provided by fu J-~,n.~
based on cùn.~ iullal pigment systems. Moreover, it is often found that in attempting
to improve the amount of coverage by increasing the tob~l pigment level, the naturalness
of appearance is adversely affe~i. It would therefore be desirable to provide a
foundation . containing novel pigment systems which deliver improved
coverage and wear without ~U..:~JI ' ' _ on other properties of the foundation such as
skin feel, application . ~ and a natural arp~n~
It is acwldiA.~I~ an objcct of this invention to provide a foundation ~ ; in the
form of either a water-in-o;l or an oil-in-water emulsion, which e~hibits illl~JIU._III~.I.~ in
coverage, together with excellent wear . ~ u. ~ and a natura~
It is also an object of this invention to provide a foundation . which provides
h~ lo~ in coverage and wear witnout trade-offs in other areas of foundation
~ . r.... -, especially slcin feel and application ~
It is a further object o~ ~the invention to provide an improved method of
and ~ d~; ' _ o~ colour cosmetic emulsion-form . and, in particular~ a
method in which the shade can be adjusted to the desired target without the need to use
separately prepared - batches of the:
~ y nf ehr Invf~tinn
According to a first aspect Of the invention there is provided a prûcess for ~
a colour cosmetic waeer in-oil or n I ' . ' emulsion ~ . in which the colourderives from the addition of inorga uc or organic pigment, wherein at least a portion of
the pigment is made water-dispersible by surface treatment with l.yd.l r' " polymer,
and wherein the proa ss complises adding all or part of the water-dispersible polyrner-
treated pigment into a pre-formed vater-in-oil or ' ~ . emulsion.
According to a further aspect of the inv~ntion there is provided a colour cosmetic water-
in-oil or ~ emulsion ~ - - wherein the aqueous phase contains a water-
dispersible pigment and the oit pbase coneains an: '-did,~.~ibl~ pigment.
All levels and raeios are by weight of total ~ . unless otherwise indicated.
WO 9C1039C4 2'1 ~ 5 ~ 6 0 . ~
Detailed Description of the invention
The u~ ,c of the invention take the form of either water-in-oil or oil-in-water
emulsions which contain as essential ingredient a water-dispersible pigment or mixture of
pigments. According to one . ~ herein the pigment is a water-dispersible
polymer-treated inorganic or organic pigment, more preferably the pigment is a water-
dispersible polyester or ~ . ' treated pigment, especially a water-dispersible
polyester-treated pigment. Suitable water-dispersible polyester-treated pigments are
thûse available under the tradename Eastman AQ Treatcd Pigment (from Eastman
Chemical Corporation). The water-dispersible pigment or mixture of pigments is present
in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 25%, preferably from about 0.5% to about
15%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 12~o by weight.
A preferred water-dispersible polyester or polyester amide for use herein comprises the
following repeat units:
(a) at least one ~ '- b uA~lic acid,
(b) at least one ~ r containing at least one sulfonate group of
the formula-
-S03M
wherein M is H, a metal ion~ or a nitrogen-containing basic group, and wherein
said sulfonate group is attached directly to an aromatic nucleus and the functional
groups of said ! ~' are hydroxy, carboxy, amino or a mi-Ature thereof,
and
(c) at least one glycol or a mixture of a glycol and a diamine having two -NRH groups,
the glycol containing two -CH2-OH groups, wherein R is H or an all~yl group of Ito 4 carbon atoms.
Preferably the d~ r is present at a level of from about 2 to about25 mole %, based on a total of all acid, hydroxyl and amino . ~. ' being equal to
200 mole %.
The water-dispersible polyesta-treated pigment used herein comprises from about 1% to
about 40%, preferably from about 5% to about 30% by weight thereof of polyma. The
average particle size of the treated granulated pigment product is typically between 75~Lm
wo 96/n3!~6-~ " r~ aa ~
'2'~59'6~
and about lOOO~m, with a more typical avcrage particle size bcing between about 125~m
and about 500~Lm, especially betwGen about 150~Lm to about 300~m.
The pigment materials useful in the present invention include water-insoluble, or
sparingly water-soluble inorganic and organic pigments, and pearlants commonly used i
cosmetics, paints, coatings, and inks, preferably inorganic pigments. Pigment materials
suitable herein have a refractive index greater than 1.5, pr~ferably greater than 1.8, more
preferably greater tham 2. The mean primary particle size of said pigrnenh is preferably
greater than 15Gnm, more preferably greater than 200nm.
Typical inorgarlic pigments include iron oxides of various colors (yellow, red, brown and
black), ferric: ~ rG~ 31ue), mang7mese violet, ~l1n ~ blue,
chrome oxide (green), titanium dioxide (white) and mixtures of said inorganic pigments.
Typical pearlants include mica, bismuth OA~ hlulidG and treated mica such as titanated
micas.
E-Aemplary pigments useful in the present invention include the C. I. pigment materials,
especially polymer-treated inorganic pigments containing iron oxide or titanium dioxide
such as, for example, C. 1. Pigment Ycllow 42, C. I. Pigment Red 101, C. I. Pigment
Black 11 and C. I. Pigment White 6. It is noted that pigments having large amounts of
ionizable cations are not prefen~d since they interfere with the water .~ lity of the
polymer.
The polyesters useful herein for treating pigment or mi-Ature of pigments comprise linear,
water~ polymers having an ;nherent viscosity of at least 0.1 and preferably at
least 0.2 and morG preferably at least 0.3 (measured as described ' ' ..) and a
glass transition ranging from 25 to 90~C. when the polymers are in the dry
state. When the polymers contain 1-259~ water of its own weight, the glass transition
("Tg"s, as measured by differential scanning ~ DSC~) may drop
to a lower range usually below 50~C. The polymer r . ~-- useful in this invention
are polyesters and ~JvlJ~ ~ ~ described in US-A-3,5446,008, US-A-3,734,874,
US-A-3,779,993 and US-A-4,233,196. The polyester or ~IJ. ~ ' used herein
preferably comprise a L~bUA~LC acid . . t, a; ' ~ ~ ~1r
component and a gly~l .
The d;~.l,UAYIi~., acid component of the polyester or yulj ~ ' comprises aliphatic
d;~l~uA~L~ acids, alicyclic .I;~buA~lic acids, aromatic d;~IJUA~ acids, or mi-Atures
WO96/03964 2.1 9 596Q P~ 5 . /aa
of two or more of these acids. Examples of such dicarboxylic acids include succinic,
gluti~ric, adipic, azelaic, sebacic, itaconic, I,4-c~. 1.,1 ~ lr l; ~d~u~l;c~ phthalic,
t . ' li~ and isnFh~h~ If terephthalic acid is used as the carboxylic acid
component of the polyester, superior results are achieved when at least 5 mole percent of
one of the other acids is also used. The preferred ~I;~I,u~ylic acid component for use
herein is isophthalic acid.
It should be understood that use of the ~ I -e acid anhydrides, esters, and acid
chlorides and other substituted derivatives of these acids is included in the term
~ii~U~JUAyliC acidn.
Other suitable acids are disclosed in, for example, US-A-3,779,993. The ~
sulfo-monomer component of the polyester or pul~. t .~ may ~J~ '~/ be a
U;~ubUA~ , acid or an ester thereof containing a metal sulfonate group or a glycol
containing a metal sulfonate group or a hydroxy acid containing a metal sulfonate group.
The metal ion of the sulfonate salt rnay be Na+, Li+, K+ and the like. The resulting
polyesters ûr polJ. ~ ' are less readily dissipated by cold vater and more readily
dissipated by hot water. It is possible to prepare the polyester or l~ul~ ' using,
for example, as sodium sulfonate salt and later by ion: ' ~ replace tbis ion with a
different ion, and thus alter the ,~ of the polymer. The ~
monomer component may also be referred to as a diru... ~iullal sulfo-monomer and is
further described I -- ---' ..
Ads ~ ' are those wherein the sulfonate
salt group is attached to an aromatic acid nucleus such as benzene, r ~
diphenyl, oAydi~ 1 or ' ~ 1 nucleus. Preferred
results are obtained through the use of 'r~t' "- acid, ~ulrut~ .~ ' ' " acid,
'~ acid,4 ~ 2,7-di~LlbUAyLC acid, and their esters;
ro~ sulfonate as described in US-A-3,779~993. Most preferred for use
herein is ~ ~r~ acid.
When the sulfonate-containing dir, ~ monomer is an acid or its ester, the polyester
or PUIJ~ ' should contain at least 8 mole percent of said monomer based on total
acid content, with more than 10 mole percent giving ~uli~uL.l~ ..d~ ~ results.
Total acid content is calculated as the sum of (I) moles of component (a) namely~I;~ubuA~ acids, ~2) one-half of the moles of carboxyl-containing, . ' of
W0 9~03964 ~ F~
2 1 ~59GO
component (d), (3) moles of component ~c) which are d~ u~ylic acids, and (4) one-
half of the moles of component (c) which are bu~y~ont~ining .
Preferably at least part of the glycol component cont~uns repeating units of a
poly(ethylene glycol) of the formula H-(OCH-2-CH2)n-OH wherein n is an integer of 1
eo 500, more preferably 2 to about 500. The values of n and the mole percent of
poly(ethylene glycol) within the stated range is inversely L~lU~JUlL;U~ to the quantity of n
within the stated ranges. Thus, when the mole percent is ~gh, the value of n is low.
On the other hand, if the mole percent is low, the value of n is high. It is apparent,
therefore, that the weight percent (product of mole percent and molecular weight) of the
pol~,.hyl~ e glycol is an important ~ because the water ~l ~ y -~U;l;ly of the
cu~ . decreases as the weight percent poly-(etnylene glycol) in the w~l~Jt~,/
decreases. For example, if the weight percent of poly(ethylene glycol) is too low, the
water ~" , ' "~ of the ~,v~11, may be inadequate. r~ lulci, the weight
percent of poly(ethylene glycol) is preferably adJusted such that it is inversely
l~1UIJUI Liu~ai to the mole percent of the ~ r because tbe water
~li ~ r~ '1 'I- l;ly of the Cu~ ul,~ ' is a function of both the mole percent
and the weight percent POI,~ J1_.., glycol.
~xamples of suitable pul~ (et'~ .~ glycols~ include relativdy high molecular weight
glycols, some of which are available "~, under the ~' v
~Carbowa~c", a pr~duct of Union Carbide. Diethylene glycol is also especially suitable.
Other useful glyCûls for preparing w~l~ may conSist ûf alipbatic, alicyclic, andaralkyl glycols. EJ~a~aples of these glycols includc ethylene glycol; propylene glycol; 1,
3-~ 2, 4 :i ' ,12-; 'r," 1,3-diol; 2J2-dimethyl-1,3-l , " '; 2-
othyl-2-butyl-~ r ~ 2-ethyl-2-isobutyl-1,3 r, ~ ~ 1,3 L " '; 1,4-
bUtanediOI; 1~S-L ; 1,~, ~ 1, 2,2,4-trimethyl-1,6 ' l;
; 1,2-~ ; 1,3 ~ .; 1,4-
~, ~t~ . 1; 2,2,4, ~; .r t ,~ p_
A preferred polyester herein is a diglycol ~"~C '
r -lr ~ copolymer. P~ L;.~ superior results ~are achieved when the
dir. ' . '~ component is 5-~ " '' , ' ' ' acid or its esters and
the glycol is a mixture of ethylene glycoi or 1,4-.,~, ' ' " ' ' with diethy~eneglycol.
w0 96/03964 ~ 2 1 9 5 9 b a p ~ /aa
Other suitable water-dispersible pigments for ill~,ol"olaliun in the, , of the
invention include l,~,l,u~)l.ilic pigments based on, for example, titanium dioxide and iron
oxides.
In a preferred aspect of the invention the c~ herein also contain an oil-dispersible pigment or mixture of pigments in a level preferably from about 0.1% to
about 25%, more preferably from about 0.5~o to about 15% and especially from about
l~o to about 12~o. by weight.
Suitable oil-dispersible pigments for use herein can be inorganic and/or organic.
Examples of suitable pigments include iron oxides of various colors (yellow, red, brown
and black), ferric f,.lu~ya ddc (blue), manganese violet, ' i.." blue,
chrome oxide (green), titanium dioxide (white) and mixtures of said inorganic pigments.
A mixture of pigments will norrnally be used.
Also suitable for use herein are coated pigments. The pigments can be treated with
' such as ~1~7 " . amino acids, siiicones, lecithin and ester oils, more
preferably with silicones (~ c,lj ' ~ such as polymethyl hydrogen siloxane as
described in EP-A-0271925.
The . , herein tal~e t'ne form of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions in which
the oil phase can include one or more silicone oil ~ . In preferred
thereof the silicone oil comprises volatile silicones or a mixture of volatile
silicones and non-volatile silicones. The silicone oil can be included in an amount of
from about 1% to about 50% by weight. Suitable volatile silicone oils include cyclic and
linear volati'ie p~ ' (as used herein, "volatile" refers to those materials
which have a ' ' vapour pressure at ambient .
A description of various volatile silicones is found in Todd, et a,.. "Volatile Silicone
Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmencs and Toiletnes 27-32 (Ig76).
Preferred cyclic silicones include pc,l~ " ~' ' containing from about 3 to about9 silicon atoms, preferably containing from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms. Preferred
linear silicone oils include the ~1~ 12,;1u7.~._s containing from about 3 to about 9
silicon atoms. The linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than about S
mm2.s~l at 25~C, while the cyclic materials have viscosities of less than about 10
mm2.s~l. Examples of silicone oils useful in the present invention include: Dow
:
wos6Jn3s64 ~. *. ~ 95960 r~l~.~.~7 ~a~ ~
Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200
ur.L~u.cd by the Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 1207 and Silicone 7158
~ d by the Union Carbide rr~ n). SF:202 ( ~ ' by General
Electric) and SWS-03314 ( ~ : ~d by Stauffer Chemical).
Suitable non-volatile silicones preferably have an average viscosity of from about 1,000
to about 2tO00,000 mm2.s~l at 25~C, more preferably from about 10,000 to about
1,800,000 mm2.s~l, even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000
mm2.s-1. Lower viscosity non-volatile silicone c~ - ' g agents, however, can also
be used. Viscosity c an be measured by me~ms of a glass capillary viscometer as set forth
in Dow Corning Cor~ate Test Method C rM0004, July 20, 1970. Suitable non-volatile
silicone fluids for use herein include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes,
polyalkylaryl siloxanes, ~1~ with amino functional polyether
siloxane cu~ , and mixtures thereof. The siloxanes useful in the presenL invention
may be endcapped with any number of mwieties, including, for example, methyl,
hydroxyl, etbylene o,cide, propylene oxide, amino and carboxyl. However, other
silicone fluids having skin _ properties may be used. The wn-volatiLe
polyalkyl siloxane fluids that may be used include, for example, ~Iydhl .hJ- '
These silo~canes are available, for example, from the Gener~l Electric Company as a
Viscasil ~cTM) series and from Dow Coming as the Dow Corning 200 series.
Preferably, the viscosity ranges from about IO mm2.s-1 to about IOO,OOO mm2.s~l at
25~C. The ~l~lk~ l siloxane fluids that may be used, also include, for example,
pol~-.~tt.J~ ' " These siloxanes are available, for example, from the
General Electric Company as SP 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Coming as 556
Cosmetic Grade Fluid. The polyether siloxane copolymer that may be used includes, for
exarnple, a p~ u,u~ , oxide modified ' ~ (e.g., Dow Corning DC-
1248) although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may
also be used.
References disclosing suitable silicone fluids include US-A-2,826,551, Green; US-A-
3,964tS00, Dra~off, issued June 22nd, 1976; US-A-4,364,837, Pader; and GB-A-
849,433, Woolston. In addition, Sll~cone Cs, . ' distributed by Petrarch SystemsInc., 1984 provides an extensive (though not exclusive~ listing of suitable silicone fluids.
Preferred non-volatile silicones for use herein includc l,ul~ " " ' . l~fu~y-
alkylene w~ containing at Icast one poly~" segment and at least
WO gG/039-~4
2t 9596~
one polyoxyalkylene segment, said polydhJ~ segment consisting essentially
of
Rbsio(4-b)l2
siloxane units wherein b has a value of from about O to about 3, inclusive, there being an
average value of ~ y 2 R radicals per silicon for all siloxane units in the
copolymer, and R denotes a radical selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a
divalent radical bonding said polyoxyalkylene segment to the P~IIJd ~ ~
segment, at least about 95~Vo of all R radicals beinB methyl; and said polyoxyalkylene
segment having an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and consisting of
from about O to about 50 mol percent IJOIYUAY~ JYI~ units and from about 50 to about
100 mol percent POIYUAJ~ units, at least one terminal portion of said
polyoxyalkylene segment being bonded to said p~ d~ segment, any
terminal portion of said p~JlyuA~dLk~ lle segment not bonded to said
polyd O ' segment being satisfied by a I ~, radical; the weight ratio
of ~I~ . I segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in said copolymer having
a value of from about 2 to about 8. Such polymers are described in US-A-4,268,499.
More preferred for use herein are pvly~ ~ ' polyoxyalkylene co~l~
having the general formula:
fH3 CIH3 ICH3 CH3
H3C-- Si ~(Si--~)x--(Si--O)y~ CH3
CH3 CH3 Cl 3H6 CH3
O-- (C2H40)a(c3H6o)bR
wherein x and y are selected such that the weight ratio of poly~ segments
to polyoxalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio of a:(a+b) is from
about 0.5 to about I, and R is a chain i ~, group, especially selected fromhydrogen; hydro~yl; aL~cyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl, such as
phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy, such as
:
W0 96~03964 ,. ~ Q ~
~ U U
phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as v~nyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy, such as ace~oxy, acryloxy
and propionoxy and amino, such as ~ yhlllil.o.
The number of and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer are such
that the weight ratio of ~ly~ ' segments to ~iyu~.yal~ .nv segments in
the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4Ø
Suitable iopuly are available ~ i~lly under the t 1~ Belsil (RTM) *om
Wacker-Chemie GmbH, G. ~ I r~ s 1. S, Postfach D-8W0 ~unich 22 and Abil
(RlrM) frorn Th. t,~ ' ' ~ Ltd,. Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex,
HA4 OYL. P,uli. u~ preferred for use herein are Abil W}3 09, Be1sil (RTM) 6031,
Abil (RT~f) B88183 and DC3225C. A prefcrred silicone herein is kno vn by its CTFA
.1. - " -';.. as d ' copolyol.
The oil phase preferably comprises from about 2% to about 40%, more preferably from
about 5% to about 30% by wight of, - ~ of volatile silicones and from about
0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.59~ to about 5% of non-vola~le silicones,
for example ~ polyu,.~ le~ ~1~
Tbe . berein can also be . ~ ' by at least one rnatte finishing agent,
inclusive of materials having a refractive inde~ of 1.5 or less. The func~Qn of the matte
finishing agent is to hide skin defects and reduce shine. Such ~ , acceptable
inorganic agents, i.e. I those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
Tl~rd Ed., as sphencal siliu, hydrated silica, ! ~'- -; ' siltubeads, mica, talc,
~ , bentonite, hectorite, kaolin, chalk, t-- ~ earth, attapulgite and the
like may be utili~ed. Of the inorganic useful as a matte finishi~ agent talc,
pol~.,lh.~L..~, hydrated silica, holin, titanium dioxide and mLxtures thereof are
preferred. Materials suitable for use herein as L"h. '' ~ ~ agents can be
generally described as spherical shaped inorganic mataials having a particle size of up to
about 100 microns, preferably from about 5 to about 50 microns, for example spherical
silica particles. Highly preferred from the viewpoint of oil absorption and shine
reductjon, espccially in humectant containing produch~ are spherical silica particles
having a specific surface area ~N2, BEI) of at least 150 m2/g ~ASTM-D3663-91) and a
pore volume of at least 0.5 ml/g (ASI M-D4222-91).
Another desirable component of the ec ~ herein is a humectant or mixture ofh The humectant or mixture of humectanh herein is preferably present in an
W096/03964 ,. ~ F~ P.~ 5:~
~1 95q&0
1 1
amount of from about 0.1% to about 30~0, more preferably from about 1 X to about25%, and cspecially from about 3% to about 155'o by weight of c.c. In -:~;-- Suitable
~ m~rt~ C are selected from glycerine and poly~ . yh..~ lubricant having aviscosity at 25~C of 300,000 to 1,1û0,0v0 mPa.s; a specific gravity at 25~C of I to
1.2glml, a pH of 5.0 to 5.5; a bound water content of 33 to 58~o; and, a free water
content from 5 to 20%.
The humectant can be ~ , ' at least partly into the oil phase of the water-in-oil
emulsion so as to form a multiphase l ~ :- oil-in-water dispersion. In these
~ ~ " the oil phase comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from
about 0.1% to about 3 % by weight of humectant on a . . basis. Suitably, thehumectant is introduced into the oil phase in the form of a mixture with or ;-I~,UI~n ' '
within a particulate lipophilic or l.~l.u~hol,i. carrier material, for e~ample a cross-linked
Lydlu~ Jbic acrylate or ~' copolymer as described in detail hereafter.
Suitable pul~ly.~l jl.... ;l.~l~' lubricants are marketed by Guardian Chemical
C~T~~tinn under the trademark "Lubrajeln. The "Lubrajels" identified as "Lubrajel
DVn, ~Lubrajel MS", and "Lubrajel CG" are preferred in the present invention. The
gelling agents sold under these trademarks contain about 1% prûpylene glycol.
Other suitablc l include sorbitol, I ' propylene glycol, butylene
glycol, hexylene glycol,; ' ~- ' glucose derivatives, such as Glucam (RTM) E-20,1, glucose ethers, sodium h~ ' and mi~tures therc-of. Urea is also
suitably added as a humectant in the internal aqueous phase.
The panthenol ,..u.~ ..i~ can be selected from D-panthenol ([R1-2,~dihydroxy-N-[3-
L~JIUA~ ul~l)]-3~3~ ' ), DL-panthenol, calcium r~ ', royal
jelly, panthetine, F panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl
lactose and Vitamin B comple~.
ln preferred ~ " the humectant is selected from glycerine and sodium
h~ ' and mi~tures thereof. Chemically, glycerine is 1,2,3 ".. . ' and is a
product of commerce. When present, sodium h~ ' . is preferably hl~l~ ' at a
level of from about 0.0196 to about 2% by weight. The mixtures are especially valuable
herein from the viewpoint of providing enhanced . .~
W096103964 ' ' ~ ~- '" 2 7 q~9
; -' 60
A further desirable component of the c. ~ ;.. c herein is a lubricant. A preferred
lubricant herein is a prc L.-. 'sl{'i~AJ silicone / I,ul~ ykL~ lubricant such as
those marketed under the trademark Lubrasil (RTM) from the Guardian Chemical
Corporation, 230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage. N.Y. 11787. In general, Lubrasil (RTM)
can be described as a mergence of silicone oil and pbl~ly~ lubricant in
which the siliconc oil is micro: ' ~ ' using high energy to forrn a complex. Lubrasil
aLso comprises propylene glycol and rul~ ' 20.
Another suitable cornponent of the ~ c herein is an ' ' ' . ,,
lI~d1U~; gelli~gagent. The~l . _ h~ l~u~ gellingagent
preferably comprises from about 5 to about 40%, more prefcrably from about 15% to
about 25%, especially from about 17% to about 23~ by weight thereof of '
, ~, h~J~u~ andfromabout95~ toabout60%, morepreferablyfrom
about 85~ to about 75%, especiaily from about 83% to about 77~i by weight thereof of
a iipophiiic oil component which in preferred ~ ~ " is selected from mineral oii,
isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, volatile silicones, castor oil and dioctyl adipate,
and mixtures thereof, preferably voiatile silicones as described generally above, more
preferably ~ .~C
The ~ h.~dlu,.~ geliing agent can be included in the
of the present invention at a level of from about O.Ql% to about S%,
preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.8% especially from about 0.05% to about
0.5 %, by weight of l, whercin the ievel is defined on an ~ -
~ 1.~ active basis~ the lower levels being highly preferred from tnevicwpoint of pro~riding optimum application ~ ~ n. ~
A preferred ~ . _ ~ h1JIu~ gclling agent is i ~ly
avaiiable from Guilir~i Chemie GmbH under the tradenanie Gilugel Sil 5. (CTFA
;g. -';-- C~-' ' pentarner (and~ r _ ~ Hydro~ty-Stearate).
Giiugel Sil S is a lipogel comprising about 80% ~ J ~ ~ pent~ner and about 20%
pl _ ~ h.~l~u~.y-stearate. It is I : ' 'y vaiuable in tne ~
of the prcsent invention from the viewpoint of improving emulsion stability,
r~ ' ' ' h~, rheological ~ 1~ and sl~n feel, and for reducing, ' ' ' tack,
shine and greasiness . ~ associated witn I such as glycerin.
The bai~nce of the ~o ~ of the present invention comprises ddonized water. The
c. ~ preferably comprises from about 15% to about 95 %, rnore preferably from
: '~w v ~ :~
w096J03~6~ ;X' .t"~ 2~ 9596a ~.I/L..~
13
about 20% to about 60% by weight of the oil phase, and from about 5% to about 85%,
more preferably from about 40~0 to about 80% by weight of the water phase.
The make-up c(." ,~ of the present invention can also comprise a particulate cross-
linked hyJIu~ Jl~;c acrylate or l.l. Il.a~.~' copolymer. This copolymer is ~ iuul~ly
valuable for reducing shine and controlling oil while helping to provide effective
;.. benefits. The cross-linked h~JI~ ' polymer is preferably in the form
of a copolymer lattice witb at least one active ingredient dispersed uniformly throughout
and entrapped within the copolymer lattice. Al vly, the h ~J," ' ' polymer can
take the form of a porous particle having a surface area (N2-BET) in the range from
about 50 to 500, preferably 100 to 300m2/g and having the active ingredient absorbed
therein.
The cross-linked h~J~ulJllublc polymer when used herein is in an amount of from about
0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.3-3% by weight and is preferably
' in the external silicone-containing oil phase. The active ingredient can be
one or more or a mixture of slcin compatible oils, skin compatible I
emollients, ~ u - I ~B agents and The polymer material is in the form of a
powder, the powder being a combined system of particles. The system of powder
particles forms a lattice which includes unit particles of less than about one micron in
average diameter, a"~' of fused unit particles of sized in the range of about 20
to 100 microns in average diameter and aggregates of clusters of fused ~_' of
sizes in tne range of about 200 to 1,200 microns in average diameter.
The powder material of the present invention which can be employed as the carrier for
the active ingredient can be broadly described as a cross-lin~ed 'post absorbed"hrJ~ ' ' ~ polymer lattice. The powder preferably has entrapped and dispersed
therein, an active which may be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas. The lattice is in
particulate form and constitutes free flowing discrete solid particles when loaded with the
active material. The lardce may contain a I ' ' quantity of the active material.
The polymer has the structural formula:
= ~ ~ . ,, t
WO961039CJ. ~ t q~i 960 rcT/uSg5~0~
14
CIH3 - CIH3
CH2 Cl lC--CH2--
C=O ~C=O
1~ ~0
IRl - R" - Y
o
lC=O
--CH2--lC
CH3 X
where the ratio of x to y is 80:20, R' is -CH2CH2- and R~ is -(CH2) 1 1 CH3.
The hy.' , ' ' - polymer is a highly cl~ 1 ~ polymer, more I~LuL~,ulally a highly
cross-linked pvly ' y' copolymer. The material i5 ' ' by tbe Dow
Corning Corporation, Midland. Michi~anl USA, and sold under tbe trademark
POLYTRAP (Rl~) . It is an ultraligbt free-flowing white powder and tbe particles are
ca,oable of absorbing high levels of lipophilic liquids md some l.~v~,h;l;c Iiquids while
at the same time ~ a frec Qowing powder character. Tbe powder structure
consists of a lattice of unit particles less than one micron that are fused into a~,,'
of 20 to 100 microns and the a~' are loosely clustered into macro particles or
aggregates of about 200 to about 1200 micron si ze. The polymer powder is capable of
containing as much as four times its wcight of fluids, emulsions, dispersions or melted
solids.
Adsorption of acoives ~onto the polymer powder can be ? ~ " ' ' using a staiQless
steel mi~ing bowl and a spoon, wherein the active is added to the powder and the spoon
is used to gently fold the active into the polymer powdel. Low viscosity fluids may be
adsorbed by addition of the fluids to a sealable vessel contail~ing the polymer and then
tumbling the materials until a y i5 achieved. Moro elaborate blending
equipment such as ribbon or twin cone blenders ain also be employed. Tbe preferred
active ingredient for use herein is glycerine. Preferably, the weight ratio of humectant:
calrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.
Also suitable as a highly cross-linked pvl)1, ,;h~ly' copolymer is ~
5647. This taka the form of generally spherical particles of cross-linked h 1. , ' b
polymer having a pore size of from about 0.01 to about 0.05~m and a surface area of
,
~ i ~
wog6/03964 f ~ 2 1 9~960
200-300m2/g. Again, it is preferably loaded with humectant in the levels described
above.
The ~v ,I,n~:u., ~ of the invention can also contain a hyJn . ' "- gelling agent at a level
preferably from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about
2%, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a
viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20~C, Brool~leld RV 1~ of at least about 4000 mPa.s,
more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000 mPa.s.
Suitable hyJIv~ il;c gelling agents can generally be described as water-soluble or
co]loidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g. L.rJIv~ hcellulose, methyl cellulose, LJJIvA.~ vl~Jlm~.thrl cellulose), poly~vhl~ J.~
polyvinylalcohol, ~1~ 10, guar gum, LJJIvA~plv~Jl guar gum and xanthan
gum.
Among suitable hyJIvyhilk, gelling agents are acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate ov~vl.~ and
the ~I~v~ v Jl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade mark of
Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-soluble~1~11.~,...~1 polyetber Cl. ' ' polymer of acrylic acid ~ ' ' ' with from 0.759
to 2.00% of a ~ agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl
.~i' ' Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol
954, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-soluble
polymer of acrylic acid ~ ' ' ' with about 1% of a polyallyl ether of sucrose having
an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use
herein are h.~JI~ . ' ' ~ "y-modified cross-linked polymers of acrylic acid having
. ' . ' propertia available under the Trade Name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342
and Pemulen TR-I (CTFA 1~ ~ - ~ Acrylata/10-30 AL~ yl Acrylate G ta~lvl.~ ).
A . ' ~ of the pvl~lk~ l polyether cross-linked acrylic acid polymer and the
h.~ y modiffed crvss-linked acrylic acid polymer is also suitable for useherein. The gelling agents herein are ~L~,IlI,uly valuable for providing excellent
stability ~ ~ over both normal and elevated i . ~.
N~ ,t~ ,;, " agents suitable for use in r ~ ;; g acidic group containing L.~JIv~llilic
gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydrw~ide,:
hydroxide, ' ' ~ e, !'- ' ~ and i
wog6103964 ~ 3 1 - Y~ 5~ r~ 15:~ ~
l6
The make-up ~ herein can additionaily comprise an emollient. Emollients
suitable for the ~ of the present invention include naturai and synthetic oils
selected from mineral, ~regetable, and animal oils, fats and waxesl fatty acid esters, fatty
alcoholst aikylene glycol and ~ ali ~ glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and
mixtures thereof.
Suitable emoliients for use herein includel for exampiel optionaily hydroxy-substituted
C8-CSo ' fatty acids and esters thereof, Cl-C24 esters of Cg-C30 satura~d
fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl paimitate and ~l~ldu~l~l...~
~Wickenoi 142), beeswax, saturated and ' fatty aicohols such as behenyl
aicohol and cetyl aicohol, I,~.I.~bons such as minerai oils, petrolatum and squaianel
fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-39882S~1 Seiden, issued October 26 1976), ianolin and
ianolin derivatives, such as lanolin aicohol .Ihv~' dl h~J.~,A~' ' and acetylated
lanolins, cholesterol and derivativw thereof, animal and vegetable hi~ c~idw such as
aimond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oill linseed oill jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits,
wainuts, paim nuts, pistachio nutsl sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oii, corn oil, peach pit
oii, poppyseed oil, p ne oil, castor oil, soybean oii, avocado oil, safflower oii, coconut
oii, hazelnut oii, oiive oil, grapeseed oii1 and sunflower seed oil and Cl C24 ewters of
dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate, .~" ~' '
d I and i ~"
Preferred emoliients re selected from cetearyl isopropyl palmitate,
isopropyl isostearate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl acetate, trioctyl citrate, PEG isoceteth-3
acetate, dioctyl maleate, propylene glywl ~ ' ,';" , caprylic/ capric
Ifl~ , mineral otl, PPG-20 jlgluwx; ether, and lano1in alcohol, and mi~turesthereof. These emoDients may be used ', ' 'y or in mi~tures and may be present
in the of the present invention in an amount from about 19~ to about 30%by weight, and preferahly are present in an amount from about 5% to about 15% byweight of the total
The c~ ;.. may also contain additional materials such asl for e~ample, fragrances~
fillers such as nylon, sun-screensl p.. va~ proteins, ' chdating agents
and water-in-oil emulsifiers as ~I~Y~' r
Another optional component of the mal~up . . is one or more ultra~iolet
absorbing agents. Ultraviolet absorbing agents, often described as ~ agents
can be present in a in the range of between about 1% and about 12% by
w0 96/03964 ~ 2 t ~ 5 ~ 6 0 ~ 5 ,~
weight, based on the total weight of c~ ;..., Preferably, the W absorbing agentsconstitute between about 2% and 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV absorbing
agents can be present in the c~ ';o ~ in a . ~ ~ range of between about 4%and about 6% by weight. Of the ultraviolet absorbing agents suitable for use herein,
ultra fine titanium dioxide, ultra fine zinc oxide, l . ' ~-3, octyl dimethyl PABA
(Padimate 0), octyl ~ .yl and mixtures thereof are ~ '.y preferred.
A chelating agent can also be incu~ ' in the make-up eO ~ ';.. A chelating
agent is preferably present in the ~ ~ in a ~ in the range of between
about 0.02% to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total. weight of the c~--.~,-- ';f~-
Preferably, the chelating agent is present in a c ~ in the range of between
about 0.03% and about 0.07% by weight, based on the total weight of the c
Among the chelating agents that may be included in the f. . is trisodium EDTA.
Another optional but preferred component of the foundation is one or more
ati~. The ~._~v~ve c~ --, in the foundation cc~ . based on
the total weight of that c~ ;- .. is in the range of between about 0.2% and about
0.89'o by weight, preferably between about 0.4% and about 0.6% by weight. Suitable
.V.Iti._~ for use herein include ~' -~-' ' .rl urea, methyl paraben and ethyl paraben,
and mixtures thereof.
Another optional but preferred component of the foundation, is a sebum
spreading agent. The sebum spreader is present at a level of from about 0.01% to about
5% by weight of ~ . A preferred sebum spreading agent is sodium Cg-C16
isoal~ylsuccir.yl I - ~0 ' ' sulfonate ~Biopol(RTM) OE).
A lower (Cl-C6) alcohol may also be present in the foundation of the present invention
at a levd of from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of c . Suitable lower
alcohols for use herein include etb~.nol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanol and
propylene glycol, preferably ethar.ol.
l'he make-up ~ . of tne present invention can be in the form of f~
blushers, concealers, and the like, preferably as .~c ' and blushers.
In its process aspect, the present invention broadly relates to a process for, r . ~
a colour cosmetic water-in-oil or ' 2. . ~ emulsion ~c ~ ;-... in which the colour
derives from the addition of inorganic or organic pigment, wherein at least a portion of
5 9 6 ~J
0 96/03964
18
the pigment is made water-dispersible by surface treatment with l,~l.o~l.il;c polymer,
and wherein the process comprises adding all or part of the water~ispersible polymer-
treated pigment into a pre-formed water-in-oil or ci' ~.. emulsion.
The process is ~ L.,. l~ ly valuable for the purposes of shade-matching colour cosmetic
emulsion formulae, in which process a proportion of lm~l~LvlnaLc water-dispersible
polymer-treated pigment is added to the pre-forrned water-in~il or oil-in-water emulsion
In the preferred shade ma~ching process, the pre-formed emulsion is
pigmented with a poly~ ' - pigment mixture and the . .~ -~. h,~. .U., polymer-
treated pigment is added . lly thereto to achieve the desired colour target.
The following Tables are provided to illustrate c~ of the make up of the
present invention:
W0 96/03964 r~ i s 1 9 5 9 6 0 r ~ l/u ~ aa
19
T:3h~ Water-in-oil emulsions
Example I 11 111 IV V Vl Vll VIII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt
%%%%%%%%
A.
Ct~y . - - - 2.0
C~,' ' 5.0 20.0 12.25 15.0 8.0 5.0 8.6 15.6
C~
copolyol (g0:10) 17.2 - 20.0 5.0 8.0 13.0 17.2 12.5r~u~ .................. 0.25 0.25 0.2S 0.25 0.2S. 0.25 0.25 0.25
Laureth-7 0.5 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.5 - 0.5
Dioctyl maleate - - - - 10.0
D - - - - 3.0 5.0 10.0
r , 3 - - - - - 2.0
Propylene glycol dicaprylate /
dicap~ate - - - 5.0 - 10.0
Octyl l~ hUi~ 0.0 - 1.0 - - - 5.0
B.
Titanium Dioxide 8.2S 6.0 l.S - 8.0 12.0 8.25 8.25Titanium Dioxide treated
(Aluminium hydrate, stearic 0.2S 0.5 3.0 - 0.25 - 0.25 0.25
acid)
Titanated Micas 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.25 1.0 - 0.1 0.1
Talc 3.39 4.S 6.0 0.7 0.7 - 3.39 4.0
Nylon ~ ~ ~ ~ 0 5
C~
copolyol ~90:10) 1.85 1.5 1.85 5.0 1.0 1.0 1.85
Acrylates Copolymer - - - - 1.0
Acrylates Copolymer tloaded
with glycerine) - - 6.0 - - 1.0 1.0
wo g6,03g64 ~ ~ 2 ~ ~ 5 9 ~ a r~
E~xample I 11 111 IV V Vl Vll VIII
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt
% % % % 9~ % ~c
.
Yellow Iron Oxide 1.2 - 0.6 0.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
Red Iron O~ide 0.49 - 0.6 0.49 0.49 0.2 0.6 0.42
Blac~ Iron O~ide 0.16 - 0.24 0.1 0.1 0.24 0.24 0.22
Ultrarnarine Blue - - - 0.1
C~,.,ll .l - - - - 0.68
Silica (spheron P1500) 4.0 - 1.0 - 0.1
Silica beads (Spheron L1500~ - - 3.0 - - 0.1 0.5 0.5
Synthetic Wa~ 0.1 0.5 0.5 0.1 - - - 0.1
Arach;dyl behenate 0.3 - - 0.3 - 0.3 0.3 0.3
Stearic Acid - - - - - - 2.5
Palmitic Acid - - - - - 2.5
Trihydroxy-stearin 0.3 0.3 1.5 1.5 - - - 0.3
C~, ' 1.0 4.0 - - 4.0 4.0 4.0 1.0
Beeswax 1.5 1.2 - - 1.3
Abil W~09 3.0 - - -~ -
Palm Oil 4
Al Mg hydroxy s0earate 1
~ ~ ~ ~' (20:803 0.5 - 1.8 1.5 10.0 3.0 3.0
G.
Ethylene brassylate 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.0S 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
BElT 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
H.
Deionizedwater <~ - to 100 -~- ~ --- ~->
Methyl paraben 0.12 0.150.15 0.12 0.12 0.120.15 0.12
Propylene glycol 8.0 8.0- - 1.75 8.00
Sodium chloride 2.0 1.4 1.4 0.5 2.0 2.0 2.5 2.0
;l
wos6/03sc~ 21 95960
21
Example I Il III IV V VI VII VIIIWt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt
% % % ~o % % % %
H.
Sodium .~ d., 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.8 0.8 0.3 0.8 0.3
Glycerine 4.5 lS.0 l0.0 5.0 6.5 10.0 3.0 10.0Trisodium EDTA ~ 0.01
P~ U~J. ~ - - 0.5 - - - 0.2
Titanium dioxide 1.5 6.0 6.0 6.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 0Polymer pigment l 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.8 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.8
Polymer pigment 2 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3
Polymer pigment 3 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.4 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2
T - ' ~ - 0.75
Allantoin - - 0.1
Biopol OE - 0.5 - - - 0.5
Ethanol - 6.0 - - - 2.0
Panthenol - - 3.0 - - 2.0
Hydlua~ ' - - 0.1
Ultra fine zinc o~ide - - - 0.2 0.2
Sodium h;. ~ . - 0.05 0.08 0.1 - - 0.2
Deionized Water - - - - 10.0 - - -
Aluminium Silicate - - - - 0.2
Propylene Glycol - - - 2.0
~anthan Gum - - - 0.08
Polymer pigments I, 2 and 3 are water d;~ il,k polymer treated red, yellow and
black iron oxides, wherein the polymer is a diglycol .,.~, ~ '
i~nph~t-l ~' , ' ' copolymer.
W0 96103964 ~ e~ . . J l
E~xample I II rLl IV V VIVII V~lI
Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt WtWt Wt
% % % % % % %
K
Essential Oils - - - 0.20 - - - -
PerfumeOil - 0.25 - 0.20
Vitamin A palmitate0.05 0.05 - - - - - -
Vitamin E acetate - - 1.0 - 2.0
Aloe Vera Gel - - 3.0 - - - - -
~' "- FJ~tract - - 0.1
The various , listed in Table I have been segregated into groups, the
of each group being mixed together before being added to members of the
remaining groups in accordance with the procedures set forth below.
In the first step, the mixture of . of phase A is stirred for ~y~ S
minutes with sheer muing until 1-~ With high speed shear mixing, the
materials of phase B are added gradually to A and the batch Is mixed for 35 mi~utes until
dispersed.
The . of phase C and then phase D are slowly added to ~he mLl~re of phases
A and B with high shear mi~ing until dispersed. Silica is added at this point and
dispersed through the n~ixture.
The . of phase E are added into the resulting batch which is then heated to
~4~C and mi~ced until dispersed. The vessel is ccoled to 45~C and the prernL~ed phase F
is added. The batch is mixed until I " The mixture is ccoled to 30~C and
phase G is added.
A premix of phase H is made by mixing all the until completely dispersed.
At 30~C Ihe premix of phase H is added sparingly to the batch mixture with high shear,
ensuring that there i5 no excess water on the surface. The rmLxture is then mixed for 15
minutes. Finally phasos 1, J, K, and L are added.
wo 96to3964 . i, ~ * .~ ; 2 t~ 9 5 9 6 0 P~ Jv /aa
23
The resulting make-up ~ is ready for packing.
T~hl~ 2: Oil-in-water emn~
Example I 11 III
Wt Wt Wt
% % %
A.
Glyceryl / PEG-100 stearate 0.8 2.5 1.0
PEG-10 svya sterol 1.5 - 2.0
Sorbitan ~ 't 2.0 0.1 2.25
Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 2.5 10.0 5.0
Dioctyl maleate 7.7 3.0 15.0
Squalane - - 2.5
Octyl yl
- r ~3 2 ~ 0
H~v~u,.. l,' ' lecithin 0.5
Lecithin 2.0 3.5 0.4
~Vitamin E linoleate - - 0.5
Cetyl alcohol - - 1.0
C~L~ 5.25 - 5.0
Mineral oil 1.5 - 2.0
Beeswax 0 5 ~ 0 5
Glyceryl 2.25
Pl1~1VA~III~I 0.21 0.21 0.21
BHA - - 0.1
Parabens 0.09 0.0,~ 0.0g
Treated iron oxides - yellow 0.3 - 0.3
Treated ~n oxides - red 0~2 ~ 0~2
Treated iron oxides - black 0.05 - 0.05
Treated TiO2 3.0 2.0 10.0
W0 ~?6103964 ~ f~ 9 ~ 9 6 0
24
Example I II III
Wt Wt ~t
% % %
B.
Deionized Water 1.2 1.2 2.0
Titanium Dioxide 6.0 8.0 3.0
Titanated Micas - - 2.4
Talc 1.0 - 3.0
Treated iron o~ides - yellow - 0.34 0.5
Treated iron oxides - red - 0.46 0.4
Treated iron oxides - black - 0.08 0.14
r~m~rin~- blue ~ 0.02 0.05
Ammonium acrylate copolymer 0.2 9.2 0.2
Nylon - - 0.5
C.
Deionized water <~ to 100% --~-
T ' ~ - 0.5 0.5 0.5
Methyl paraben 0.1 0.1 0.1
Trisodium EDTA 0.01 0.01 0.05
Allantoin 0.09 0.09 0.2
r: ~ 0.42 0.42 0.42
Parabens 0.18 0.18 0.18
Glycerine 5.0 - 10.0
Methyl gluce~-20 5.0 5.0
D.
Potassium ~t~'~' , ' 1.0 1.0 0.5
Methyl ~ y' cross-polymer - 0.5 3.0
These iron oxides are treated wi~ a diglycol ~,J- ' '
~ c~ copolymer.
WO g6/03964 ~I'.t~ 2 1 9 5 9 6 0 . ~,I/U~ . . Ia~
Example . I Il III
Wt Wt Wt
% % 9
F.
Deionized Water 2.0 2.0 2.0
~' ~ Aluminium S~icate 0.2 0.25 0.15
Deionized Water 2.0 2.0 2.0
Propylene glycol 2.0 8.0
Xanthan Gum 0.16 0.08 0.16
H~d~u~,lhyh,.,llulose 0.1 0.1 0.05
Lubrasil 0.5 1.0
C~.' ' ~ I D- ' ' 15.0 3.0
D / Di ' ' 2.0 10.0
T--' ' 2.0
K
Silica bea~ls (Spheron L1500) 2.5 0 5
Essential Oils 0.2
Perfume Oil 0.2
Vitamin A palmitate - - 0.05
M.
Aloe Ve~ Gel - 3.0 3.0
~' ' Extract - 01
w096/03964 ~ ' 21 95~60 1~ la! ~
26
The various c~ A "u~ listed in Table 2 have been segregated into groupsl the
of each group being mixed together before being added to members of tho
remaining groups in accordance with the proeedures set forth below.
In the first step, the mixture of: l of phase B i9 stirred with shear mixing until
1 ... ~,,. .\~ ., ~ With slow speed shear mixing at 65-75~C~ the materials of phase C are
admixed individually in order as giYen in the r.,~ ul.l~uons.
The: , of phase A are mixed until dispersed. The ingredients of phase K are
then added to phase A with high shear mixing..
The v alumniium silicate of phase F is ~.eh~di..~ for at least 30 minutes at50~C and is then added to the aqueous phase C and thoroughly dispersed therein.
The deionised water / propylene glycol ~or glycerine) / xantham gum slurry of phase G is
added to heated aqueous phase C at 65-67~C and phase B is slowly added to phase C.
Stirring is continued until ~ O , while a i , of 65-67~C.
C~ . D is then added to the resuldng mixture with stirring.
The . of F and G are added to the mixture with slow stirring for 5 minutes
until I ~, Then component E is added to the mixture with slow stirring until
completely r
The resulting oil phase Of r A and K is then added to the water phase of
B, C, D, E, F and G and agitated via stirring to emulsify the mixture at a
~ , of about 65-6/i ~ of 65-67~ C The resulting mixture is cooled
down.
At about 35~C, the Lubrasil of phase H is added to the resulting batch and Imxed until
c~ At about 35~C, the silicone mixture of phase I is added to the resultingbatch. The resulting mixture is agitated with low-speed mixing until a gel-like
~ y is obtained, generally within about 1-2 minutes. At 30~C, the perfume oil
and essential oils of phase L are added and then the . . of phase M are added.
The resulting make-up ~ . "' is ready for packing.
W096103964 z~ 95960 P~,l/u~,''.'l /aa
27
The malce-up ,~ ~ of the Examples exhibit improved coverage and wear, with
excellent ~ s~ ilily, product stability and skin-feel, reduced shine and
tackiness and a uniform coverage giving a natural skin ~pp.~~
The process is repeated for each of the examples above, with the exception that 10% of
the total amount of each of polymer pigments I, 2 and 3 is reserved for addition as a
finalstep. Beforepacking,thecolourofthemalce-upcù ~ is~ ;.v~o~;~lly
compared to the desired target and the reserved amounts of the polymer pigments are
dispersed as necessary into the make-up . using low-shear mixing until the
desired colour target is met.
The slladc ' ' ' _ process of the Examples provides a method in which the shade of
the finished product can be adjusted to the desired target in â convenient manner without
the need to use separately prepared ' Ulll~ batches of the finished c~
