Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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Mild Cold Pearlizing Concentrates
Field of the Invention
The present invention relates generally to cold pearlizing concentrates used to
impart pearl, irridescent sheen or glow, to beauty care and personal care products such
as liquid soaps and shampoos.
Back~round of the Invention
Pearlescent additives, also known as pearlizing agents, are added to beauty and
personal care products such as hair and skin care products to provide a pearly appearance
to the products. Chemicals which are tiny (micron size) needles or platelets often exhibit
2 o this pearly appearance. Materials which exhibit this effect are ethylene glycol mono-and di-
stearate, TiOz coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and natural mother of pearl. Many organic
materials exhibit this pearlescence provided they can be produced in an applupliate needle
or platelet shape. Ethylene glycol distearate (EGDS) is the most commonly utilized
pearlizing agent.
Obtaining good pearlescence requires obtaining the appl~,p.i~Le cryst~lli7~tion.Consistency in obtaining the appl- pliate size and type of crystal formed is difficult
especially when utilizing ethylene glycol distearate or the like. The controlled formation of
EGDS crystals of the proper size to give good pearlescence depends on two major steps of
the crystallization process. The first step is the solubilization by addition of EGDS to the
3 o hot (above EGDS's melting point) beauty or personal care product, for example a
shampoo. Good, effcient solubili_ation ofthe EGDS depends on being above the melting
point, finely emulsifying the melted EGDS, and allowing enough n~ixing time for the
solubili_ation to occur. As the shampoo composition, for example, is varied, it is generally
necessary to insure that it can solubilize the EGDS at a temperature greater than EGDS's
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5 melting point but then also precipit~fe it at a temperature less than the melting point. If a
composition has too high a solllbili7ing capacity the EGDS may not cryst~lli7e out, may
require too low of an outlet temperature (<100~F) to crystallize or may only crystallize
slowly leading to crystals that are too large. If the solubilizing capacity is too low, only part
of the EGDS will be solubilized and upon cooling the unsolubilized EGDS will freeze out
0 as large chunks.
In the second step, the pre~ipit~tion or freezeout step, composition and the cooling
process are i~ )Ol ~.l p~ d...~ers. The composition should not have too high a
solubilization ability as rli~cllcce~ Generally this is controlled by adding water or other
solubilization reducing ingredients imm.o~ tely prior to freeze out. Several cooling
15 processes are known in the art. Some methods nucleate crystals in only a portion of the
composition and then mix these seed crystals back into the warmer composition. A single-
pass method is better for controlling crystal size since it does not require remixing crystals
into the uncooled co...po:,ilion. Many factors, such as fiow rate, temperature and time,
must be monitored and controlled to achieve approp.ia~e crystal size. The formation of
2 o crystals depends very much on the rate of cooling. An imperfect cooling will decrease the
pearl~osc~n~e and the heating and cooling may have to be repeated until a s~ti~fQrtory
pearl.occPnre is achieved.
Obviously achieving consistency in the cryst~lli7~tion process requires co~
monitoring as well as ~tt~nrling to adjllctmpntc The difflculty in controlling the process
2 5 translates to an inc~1n~ictency in the pearlescence of the compositions and expenditures in
time and money.
A pearlizing conce--l-a~e which can be added to beauty and personal care
compositions without a need for crysf~lli7~tiQn, with its requisite heating and cooling
.ol~mf~nt~, can provide significant benefits. It can be added at room temperature saving
3 o energy and equipment costs and offer a more consistent pearlescence since many of the
sensitive parameters of a cryst~lli7~tion process have been removed.
Cocodiethanolamide has been used as a dispersing agent in m~nllf~çtllring cold
pearlizing concentrates since it is liquid at room temperature and thus does not require
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5 a melting step; however, studies have raised concern that the diethanolamine, often
present as a by-product of the cocodiethanolamide production, may form potentially
carcinogenic nitros~mines Thus, the use of cocodiethanolamide in personal hair care
and skin products such as cosmetics, facial soaps and shampoos has been questioned
from a health standpoint. It would certainly be advantageous then, to have a safe
10 pearlizing concentrate for use in beauty and personal care compositions such as
shampoo, lipstick and conditioner products without the presence of the
cocodiethanolamide as a component of the formulation.
It is an object of the present invention to prepare a novel mild cold pearlizingconcentrate for use in beauty and personal care compositions such as shampoos, skin
15 creams, lipstick, hair colors and the like. More particularly, it is an object of the
present invention to prepare a cold pearlizing consentrate that does not require the
presence of the cocodiethanolamide with the potential health problem associated with
the nitrosamines possibly formed by its diethanolamine by-product. It is an object to
provide beauty and personal care product formulators with a convenient means of
2 o providing pearlescence to their products. Also an object of the present invention is to
provide mildness, ie, mild/nonirritating to the skin.
Unlike current pearlizing concentrates wherein anionic surf~ct~nt~ such as
sodium laureth sulfate, are the main emulsifiers, which are not compatible with some
cationic surfactants which are conditioners, it is an object to provide a pearlizing
25 concentrate which is compatible with any ionic surfactant. A further object is that the
beauty and personal care products can be prepared without the need for the application
of high temperatures and other requirements of standard cryst~lli7~tion.
Summary of the Invention
The present invention is a novel mild cold pearlizing concentrate for use in
3 o beauty and personal care compositions such as: shampoos, conditioners, lipsticks, skin
creams, lotions, bubble baths, liquid dishwashing products, liquid cleaners and the like
The cold pearlizing concentrate is a unique formulation of ingredients comprising: a
pearlizing agent, a nonionic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a glycol f m~ ifier
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and water. The cold pearlizing concentrate provides a brilliant sheen and pearlescence
when incorporated into personal care and beauty care products.
All percentages and ratios utilized herein are on a weight percent basis unless ''
otherwise stated.
'~omprising," as used herein, means various components can be conjointly
employed. Accordingly, the terms "consisting essentially oP' and "consisting of" are
embodied in the term comprising.
The term "cold" as utilized herein refers to the ability of the concentrate to be
added without heating the beauty and personal care products.
Detailed Description of the Invention
A stable, mild free flowing cold pearlizing concentrate is prepared using i) a
pearlizing agent, preferably a glycol stearate; ii) a nonionic surfactant; iii) an
amphoteric surfactant emulsifier and stabilizer and iv) a glycol emulsifier and v) water;
to obviate the use of cocodiethanolamide and provide excellent compatibility with any
ionic surfactant.
zo The pearlizing agent comprises from about 5% to about 40%, preferably from
about 10% to about 30% and most preferably from about 15% to about 25%, by
weight based on the total weight of the concentrate.
The pearlizing agent can be selected from the group consisting of hydroxyl
stearate, polyethylene glycol mono- and di-stearates, ethylene glycol mono- and
2 5 distearates, stearic monoethanolamide, stearic monoethanolarnide stearate and
mixtures thereof. The preferred agents are polyethylene glycol mono- and distearates, and
ethylene glycol mono- and di-stearates. The most preferred ~m~ ifi~rs for use are:
ethylene glycol mono- and di-stearates.
A second component of the concentrate is a nonionic surfactant. This surfactant
3 0 can function as an emulsifier and stabilizer in the formulation. The term 'honionic
surfactant"as utilized herein encompasses mixtures of nonionic surf~ nts
Examples of useful nonionic surfactants include condensates of ethylene oxide with
a hydrophobic moiety which has an average hydrophilic lipophilic balance (HLB) between
_
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about 8 to about 16, and more p,~r~.~bly, between about 10 and about 12.5. Thesesurfactants include the conrlçrl~tiQn products of primary or second~ry aliphatic alcohols
v having from about 8 to about 24 carbon atoms, in either straight or branched chain
configuration, with from about 2 to about 40, and preferably between about 2 and about 9
moles of ethylene oxide per mole of alcohol.
In a preferred embodiment the aliphatic alcohol co.,.l.. ises between about 9 and
about 18 carbon atoms and is ethoxylated with between about 3 and about 12 moles of
ethylene oxide per mole of aliphatic alcohol. Especially preferred are the about 12 to about
15 carbon primary alcohol ethyoxylates containing about 5 to about 9 moles of ethylene
oxide per mole of alcohol. One such material is commercially sold under the trade name
Neodol 25-9.by Shell Chemical Company. Other coll~n~lc;al nonionic surfactants include
Neodol 25-6.5 and Neodol 25-7 sold by Shell Chemical Company.
Other suitable nonionic surfactants include the condçn~tion products of about 6 to
about 12 carbon atom alkyl phenols with about 3 to about 30, and pl~r~l~bly between
about 5 and 14 moles of ethylene oxide. Exarnples of such surfactants are sold under the
2 o trade manes Igepol CO 530, Igepol CO 630, Igepol C0720 and Igepol CO 730 by Rhone-
Poulenc Inc. Still other suitable nonionic surfactants are described in U.S. Patent No.
3,976,586. To the extent nececc~ry, this patent is c~ ssly incorporated by l~rel~nce.
Most preferred for use are mixed linear alcohol ethoxylates such as Laureth-7 sold
as Rhodasurf L-790 by Rhône-Poulenc Inc.
The nonionic surfactant is incorporated in the cold pearlizing concentrate in anamount of from about 3% to about 30%; preferably from about 8% to about 25% and
most pl er~l ~bly from about 10% to 20%, based on the total weight of the concentrate.
An amphoteric surfactant comprises the third component of the present
invention. The term "amphoteric surfactant" as utili~ed herein encompasses one or
more amphoteric surfactants such as mixtures of amphoteric surfactants. Preferably,
amphoteric surfactants known as the betaines, their derivatives, and mixtures thereof
are incorporated to provide an enhanced pearlizing effect.
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Examples of suitable amphoteric surf~ct~nt~ include the alkali metal, alkaline
earth metal, ammonium or substituted ammonium salts of alkyl amphocarboxy
glycinates and alkyl amphocarboxypropionates, alkyl amphodipropionates, allyl
amphoc~i~cet~tec alkyl amphoglycinates and alkyl amphopropionates wherein alkyl
feplese.lLs an alkyl gr~up having 6 to 20 carbon atoms. Other suitable amphoteric
surfactants include alkyl iminopropionates, alkyl iminodipropionates and alkyl
amphopropylsulfonates having between 12 and l8 carbon atoms; alkyl betaines and
amidopropyl betaines and alkyl sultaines and alkylamidopropylhydroxy s--lt~intoswherein alkyl .ep.~sen~s an alkyl group having 6 to 20 carbon atoms.
Particularly useful amphoteric surf~ct~nt~ include both mono and
15 dicarboxylates such as those of the formulae:
O CH2CH20H
R- C - NHCH2CH2N (I); and
(CH2)X COOM
O CH2CHzOH (CH2)xCOOM
R - C - NCH2CH2N (II)
(CH2)xCOOM
wherein R is an alkyl group of 6-20 carbon atoms, x is l or 2 and M is hydrogen or
25 sodium. Mixtures ofthe above structures are particularly preferred.
Other formulae for the above amphoteric surfactants include the following:
Alkyl betaines CH3
R-~N-CH2COOM (m);
CH3
3 o Amidopropyl betaines
O CH3 ,
R-C-NH-CH2CH2-~N-CHlCOOM (IV);
CH3
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Alkyl sultaines
CH3
Y R-N+-CH2-CH-CH2SO3M (V); and
CH3 OH
Alkyl amidopropylhydroxy s--lt~inçs
O CH3
R-C-NH-CH2CHz-+N-CH2-CH-CH2SO3M (VI);
CH3 OH
where R is a alkyl group of 6-20 carbon atoms and M is potassium, sodium or
a monovalent cation.
Of the above amphoteric surfactants, particularly preferred are the alkali saltsof alkyl amphocarboxyglycinates and alkyl amphocarboxypropionates, alkyl
amphodipropionates, alkyl amphodiacetates, alkyl amphoglycinates, alkyl amphopropyl
sulfonates and alkyl amphopropionates wherein alkyl represents an alkyl group having
6 to 20 carbon atoms. Even more preferred are compounds wherein the alkyl group is
derived from coconut oil or is a lauryl group, for example cocoamphodipropionate.
Such cocoamphodipropionate surf~ct~ntc are commercially sold under the trademarks
Miranol C2M-SF CONC. and Miranol FBS by Rhone-Poulenc Inc.
Other commercially useful amphoteric surf~ct~nts include:
cocoampho~l~et~te (sold under the trademarks MIRANOL ULTRA C-32 and
MIRAPON FA),
cocoamphopropionate (sold under the trademarks MIRANOL CMSF CONC.
3 0 and MIRAPON FAS),
cocoamphodiacetate (sold under the trademarks MIRANOL C2M CONC. and
MIRAPON FB),
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lauroamphoacetate (sold under the trademarks MIRANOL HM CONC. and
MIRAPON LA),
lauroamphocli~cet~te (sold under the trademarks MIRANOL H2M CONC. and
MIRAPON LB),
lauroamphodipropionate (sold under the trademarks MIRANOL H2M-SF
CONC. AND MIRAPON LBS),
lauroamphorli~cet~te obtained from a mixture of lauric and myristic acids (sold
under the trademark MIRANOL BM CONC.), and
cocoamphopropyl sulfonate (sold under the trademark Miranol CS CONC.)
caproamphodiacetate (sold under the trademark ~ANOL S2M CONC.),
caproamphoacetate (sold under the trademark MIRANOL SM CONC.),
caproamphodipropionate (sold under the trademark MlRANOL S2M-SF
CONC.), and
stearoamphoacetate (sold under the trademark MIRANOL DM).
The most preferred amphoteric surfactant for use is cocoamphoacetate. It can
be present from 0% to 10% based on the toal weight of the concentrate. Preferably,
cocoampho~cet~te will comprise from about 1% to about 7% and most preferably
from about 2% to about 4% of the concentrate.
Also useful herein are the betaines and amidobetaines which are compounds of
the general structure:
2 5 CH3 CH3
R2-N+-CR3R4-C02 and R2-CO-NH(CH2)3 - N+-CR3R4-C02
CH3 CH3
respectively wherein R2 is C8 - C22 alkyl or alkenyl; R3 is H or Cl - C4 alkyl; and R4
is H or C1 - C-4 alkyl.
3 0 The betaines useful herein include the high alkyl betaines such as cocodimethyl
carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimeth~l carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl alpha-
carboxy-ethyl betaine, cetyl dimeth~ l carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxy-
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ethyl)carboxy methyl betaine, stearyl bis-(2-hydroxy-propyl)carboxymethyl betaine,
oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl betaine, and lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-
carboxyethyl betaine. The sulfobetaines are also pl~felled and may be represented by
cocodimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, stearyldimethyl sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl
sulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)sulfopropyl betaine and mixturesthereof. A particularly preferred composition utilizes cocoamidopropyl betaine.
Most preferably, the amphoteric surfactant can be cocoamphoacetate and
cocoamidopropyl betaine acting as amphoteric co-emulsifiers.
The amphoteric surfactant can be present from about 2% to about 20% weight
percent based on the total weight of the pearlizing concentrate. Preferably, theamphoteric will comprise from about 4% to about 16%, most preferably from about
6% to about 10%, of the pearlizing concentrate.
The fourth component consists of a glycol emulsifier. Propylene glycol (1,2,
and 1, 3) and other alcohols such as 1, 3 - butylene glycol, 2, 3 - butylene glycol,
ethylene glycol and mixtures thereof are useful emulsifiers. The glycol emulsifier can
be present from 0% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about 10% and most
preferably from about 2% to about 5%.
For the fifth component, the remainder is water, preferably deionized.
Generally, water is added in an amount of from about 20% to about 70%, preferably
from about 30% to about 60%, and most preferably from about 40% to about 55%
based on the total weight ofthe concentrate.
Non-essential optional components can be utilized in the concentrates of the
present invention as a convenient means of incorporation into beauty and personal care
products. Such conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in
the art, e.g., preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben and
3 o imidazolidinyl urea; thickeners and viscosity modifiers such as block polymers of
ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, e.g. Antarox F-88 (Rhone-Poulenc Inc.), sodium
chloride, sodium sulfate, polyvinyl alcohol, and ethyl alcohol; pH adjusting agents such
as citric acid, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate;
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perfumes; dyes; and sequestering agents such as disodium ethylenerli~mine tetra-acetate. Such agents generally are used individually at levels of from 0% to about 2%,
preferably from 0.01% to about 1.0% by weight of the concentrate.
The pH of the concentrate compositions is not critical and can be in the range
of from about 2 to about 12, preferably from about 4 to about 10 and most preferably
lo from about 6 to about 8. The pH can be adjusted using a buffer such as citric acid.
The order of addition to the mixing tank of the individual components of the
concentrate is not critical nor is the reasonably elevated temperature; however,preferably the water and pearlizing agent are intimately blended at from about 50~ to
about 90~C, more preferably from about 70~ to about 80~C with high agitation until
the pearlizing agent is solubilized. The nonionic and amphoteric surf~ct~ntc are then
blended into the mix until the mixture is clear. The mixture is then allowed to cool to
room temperature. Generally, the concentrate can be stored at a temperature of from
about 0~C to about 45~C, preferably from about 15~C to about 35~C for at least one
day and preferably two days in order to fully develop its pearlizing characteristics.
The cold pearlizing concentrate of the present invention can be specifically
formulated into a wide variety of personal care and beauty care products. These
products can be forrn~ ted by one skilled in the art utili7ing conventional methods of
production. The pearlizing concentrate imparts a high luster pearlescence and sheen to
the products. Generally, the shampoos and soaps of the present invention can be made
2 5 by merely mixing the beauty and/or personal care product together with the
concentrate at room temperature.
The following examples are provided to better describe and define the
concentrate compositions of the present invention. They are for illustrative purposes
only, and it is realized that changes and variations may be made with respect to these
3 o compositions that are not shown below. Such changes that do not materially alter the
compositions formulation or function are still considered to fall within the spirit and
scope of the invention as recited by the claims that follow.
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Example I
A cold pearlizing concentrate of the present invention is prepared as follows:
J ~ .
Ethylene Glycol Distearate 20.0
Laureth-7 15.0
10 Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 6.0
Cocoamphoacetate 2.0
Propylene Glycol 3 .0
Deionized Water 54.0
1 00.00
Croda EGDS (Ethylene Glycol Distearate) is added to a mixture of water, followed by
Laureth-7 (Rhodasurf L-790 sold by Rhône-Poulenc Inc), Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
(Mirataine Bet-C-30 sold by Rhône-Poulenc Inc.) Cocoamphoacetate (Miranol Ultra
C-32 sold by Rhône-Poulenc Inc.) and Propylene Glycol. The mixture is then heated
20 to 80-85~C until the solution is clear (transparent). The solution is then allowed to
cool to room temperature. The resulting concentrate has excellent pearlescence and
can be utilized in a variety of personal and beauty care products.
Example II
A pearlescent mild conditioning shampoo is prepared as follows:
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (70%) 10.0
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate (40%) 6.0
Sodium Cocamidopropyl Betaine (36%) 4 0
Pealizing Concentrate of Example I 2.0
Guar Hydroxypropyl Trimonium Chloride 0.3
Citric Acid q.s.
NaCl q.s.
FrangrancelDyes q.s.
Deionized Water q.s.
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5 The cold pearlizing concentrate of Example I is added to the premixed ingredients of
the shampoo with agitation at room temperature. The resulting concentrate has
excellent pearlescence and can be utilized to clean hair.
What is Claim is:
