Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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CLEANSING PRODUCTS WITH IMPROVED MOISTURIZATION
TECHNICAL FIEL1~
The present invention relates to a substantially dry, disposable, personal
cleansing product usefi.~l for both cleansing and conditioning the skin or
hair. These
products are used by the consumer by wetting the dry product with water. The
product comprises a water insoluble substrate, a lathering surfactant, and a
conditioning emulsion comprising (i) an external phase comprising an oil
soluble
agent and (ii) an internal phase comprising a water soluble conditioning
agent. The
product effectively delivers water soluble conditioning agents to the skin or
hair.
Use of the substrate enhances lathering at low surfactant levels, increases
cleansing and exfoliation, and optimizes delivery and deposition of water
soluble
conditioning ingredients. As a result, this invention provides effective
cleansing
using low levels of surfactant, .and hence is less irritating, while providing
superior
conditioning benefits by delivering both water soluble conditioning agents and
oil
soluble conditioning agents.
The invention also encompasses products comprising various active
ingredients for delivery to the skin or hair.
The invention also encompasses a method for cleansing and moisturizing the
skin and hair using thc: products of the present invention and also to methods
for
manufacturing these pr~~ducts.
~ACICGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Personal cleansing and conditioning products have traditionally been
marketed in a variety of forms such as bar soaps, creams, lotions, and gels.
These
formulations have attempted to satisfy a number of criteria to be acceptable
to
consumers. These criteria inc:~ude cleansing effectiveness, skin feel,
mildness to
skin, hair, and ocular mucosae, and lather volume. Ideal personal cleansers
should
gently cleanse the skin or hair, cause little or no irritation, and not leave
the skin or
hair overly dry after frequent use.
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However, these traditional forms of personal cleansing products have the
inherent problem of balancing .cleansing efficacy against delivering a
conditioning
benefit. One solution to this problem is to use separate cleansing and
conditioning
products. However, this is not always convenient or practical and many
consumers
would prefer to use a single product which can both cleanse and condition the
skin
or hair. In a typical cleansing composition the conditioning ingredients are
difficult
to formulate because many conditioners are incompatible with the surfactants,
resulting in an undesirable non-homogenous mixture. To obtain a homogeneous
mixture with conditioning ingredients, and to prevent the loss of conditioning
ingredients before deposition, additional ingredients, e.g. emulsifiers,
thickeners, and
gellants are often added to suspend or emulsify the conditioning ingredients
within
the surfactant mixture. This results in an aesthetically pleasing homogenous
mixture, but often results in poor deposition of conditioning ingredients,
because the
conditioners are emulsified and not efficiently released during cleansing.
Also,
many conditioning agents have the disadvantage of suppressing lather
generation.
Lather suppression is a problem because many consumers seek cleansing products
that provide a rich, creamy, and generous lather.
In addition, traditional formulations have been very ineffective in depositing
water soluble conditioning agents to the skin or hair. It is desirable to
deposit both
oil soluble conditioning agents (e.g., emollients and lipids) and water
soluble
conditioning agents (e.g., humectants) to the skin in order to maximize acute
and
chronic skin conditioning benefits. With proper formulation techniques oil
soluble
agents can be deposited onto the skin or hair due to their inherent
hydrophobic
nature. However, deposition of water soluble conditioning agents with
traditional
cleansers is often difficult since water soluble conditioning agents typically
rinse-
away leaving only deposition of hydrophobic agents. Attempts have been made to
deposit water soluble conditioning agents through the use of multiple
emulsions
(e.g., a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion). Although theoretically possible,
this
approach has been difficult in practice due to poor long-term shelf stability
and
product aesthetics.
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3
The present invention c;liminates this paradigm since the surfactants and the
conditioning agents can be separately added directly onto the substrate. In
this
manner, the water soluble conditioning agents can simply be emulsified into an
oil
soluble agent and added to the substrate. This simple emulsion remains stable
on the
substrate and prevents the water soluble conditioning agent from being rinsed-
away
during the cleansing process since the water soluble conditioner is protected
within
the emulsion. As a result, the present invention effectively deposits both oil
soluble
and water soluble conditioning agents to the skin and hair.
Therefore, it is seen that conventional cleansing products which attempt to
combine surfactants and both water soluble and oil soluble conditioning
ingredients
suffer from disadvantages inherently resulting from the incompatibilities of
surfactants, water soluble conditioning agents, and oil soluble conditioning
agents.
A need clearly exists to develop cleansing systems which provide effective
cleansing
and yet deposit both water soluble and oil soluble conditioning agents in a
single
product.
It is also highly desirable to deliver cleansing and conditioning benefits
from
a disposable, single use product. Disposable products are convenient because
they
obviate the need to carry cumbersome bottles, bars, jars, tubes, and other
forms of
both cleansing and conditioning products. Disposable products are also a more
sanitary alternative to the use of a sponge, washcloth, or other cleansing
implement
intended for multiple reuse, because such implements develop bacterial growth,
unpleasant odors, and other undesirable characteristics related to repeated
use.
It has been sur~~risingly found in the present invention that products can be
developed to provide effective; cleansing and conditioning in a convenient,
cost
effective, and sanitary disposable personal cleansing product. The present
invention
provides the convenience of not needing to use both a separate cleansing and
conditioning product. 'the present invention is highly convenient to use
because it is
in the form of a substantially dry product that is wetted before use.
The present invention relates to a dry, disposable, personal cleansing product
useful for both cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair. These products
are used
by the consumer by wetting the dry product with water. 'The product consists
of a
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water insoluble substrate, a surfactant, and a conditioning emulsion. Without
being
limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate enhances lathering at low
surfactant levels, increases cleansing and exfoliation, and optimizes delivery
and
deposition of both water soluble and oil soluble conditioning ingredients. As
a
result, this invention provides effective cleansing using low, and hence less
irritating, levels of surfactant while providing superior conditioning
benefits. It has
also been found that these products are useful for delivering a wide range of
active
ingredients to the skin or hair during the cleansing process.
It is therefore, an object of the present invention to provide substantially
dry
products for both cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair wherein the
products
are used in combination with water.
It is another object of the present invention to provide products which
deliver
both water soluble conditioning agents and oil soluble conditioning agents to
the
skin or hair.
It is another object of the present invention to provide products which
deliver
water soluble conditioning agents to the skin or hair.
It is another object of the present invention to provide products comprising a
water insoluble substrate, a surfactant, and a conditioning emulsion.
It is another object of the present invention to provide products which are
disposable and intended for single use.
It is another object of the present invention to provide products which are
mild to the skin or hair.
It is another object of the present invention to provide products useful for
delivering active ingredients to the skin or hair during the cleansing and
conditioning
process.
It is another object of the present invention to provide methods of cleansing
and conditioning the skin or hair.
It is another object of the present invention to provide methods of
manufacturing the products of the present invention.
These and other objects of this invention will become apparent in light of the
following disclosure.
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SUMMARY OF THE INVFNTION
The present invention relates to a disposable, single use personal care
cleansing and conditioning product comprising:
(A) a water insoluble substrate,
(B) a lathering surfacaant, and
(C) a conditioning emulsion,
wherein said product is substantially dry.
In further embodiments. the present invention relates to a disposable, single
use personal care cleansing and conditioning product comprising:
(A) a water insoluble substrate,
(B) a lathering surfactant, and
(C) a conditioning emulsion comprising:
(i) an internal phase comprising a water soluble conditioning
agent, and
(ii) a.n external phase comprising an oil soluble agent,
wherein said lathering surfactant and said conditioning emulsion are
separately or
simultaneously added onto or impregnated into said water insoluble substrate,
and
wherein said product is substantially dry.
In further em~~odiments, the present invention relates to a method of
manufacturing a disposable, single use personal care cleansing and
conditioning
product comprising the step of separately or simultaneously adding onto or
impregnating into a wafer insoluble substrate
(A) a lathering surfactant, and
(B) a conditioning emulsion comprising,
(f) an internal phase comprising a water soluble conditioning
agent
(ii) an external phase comprising an oil soluble agent, and
wherein said product is substantially dry.
In further embodiments, the present invention further comprises an
emulsifier capable of forming an. emulsion of said internal and external
phase.
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6
In further embodiments, the present invention relates to methods for
cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair with the personal cleansing
products
described herein.
In even further embodiments, the present invention relates to methods of
depositing conditioning agents to the skin or hair.
All percentages and ratios used herein, unless otherwise indicated, are by
weight and all measurements made are at 25°C, unless otherwise
designated. The
invention hereof can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of, the
essential as
well as optional ingredients and components described therein.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The personal cleansing products of the present invention are highly
efficacious for cleansing the skin or hair, yet, provide effective deposition
of water
soluble conditioning agents. The present invention is also highly efficacious
for
cleansing and effectively depositing both water soluble and oil soluble
conditioning
agents. These products can also contain other active ingredients to be
deposited onto
the skin or hair.
Without being limited by theory it is believed that the substrate
significantly
contributes to generation of lather and deposition of conditioning agents and
any
other active ingredients. It is believed that this increase in lathering is
the result of
the surface action of the substrate. As a result, milder and significantly
lower
amounts of surfactants may be employed. The decreased amount of required
surfactant is believed to relate to the decrease in the drying effect of the
skin or hair
by the surfactants. Furthermore, the decreased amount of surfactant
dramatically
lowers the inhibitory action (e.g., via emulsification or direct removal by
the
surfactants) of surfactants to deposition of conditioning agents.
Without being limited by theory, the substrate also enhances deposition of
active ingredients and conditioning agents in addition to the conditioning
agents in
the conditioning emulsion. Since the invention is in dry form, the invention
does not
require additional emulsifiers to make the product homogeneous, which can
inhibit
deposition of conditioning agents and active ingredients. Furthermore, because
the
skin conditioners and active ingredients are dried onto or impregnated into
the
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7
substrate, they are transferred directly to the skin or hair by surface
contact of the
wetted product to the skin.
Finally, the substrate also enhances cleansing. The substrate can have
differing textures on each side, e.g. a rough side and a smooth side. The
substrate
acts as an efficient lathering and exfoliating implement. By physically coming
into
contact with the skin or hair, the substrate significantly aids in cleansing
and
removal of dirt, makeup, dead skin, and other debris.
By a "lathering surfactant" is meant a surfactant, which when combined with
water and mechanically agitated generates a foam or lather. Preferably, these
surfactants should be mild, which means that these surfactants provide
sufficient
cleansing or detersive benefits but do not overly dry the skin or hair, and
yet meet
the lathering criteria described above.
The terms "disposable" or "single use", are used herein in their ordinary
sense to mean a product that is disposed or discarded after one usage event.
The term "water-activated," as used herein, means that the present invention
is presented to the consumer in dry form to be used after wetting with water.
It is
found that these producas produce a lather or are "activated" upon contact
with water
and further agitation.
The term "substantialhr dry" as used herein means that the product is
substantially free of water and generally feels dry to the touch. The products
of the
present invention comprise less than about 15% by weight of water, preferably
less
than about 7.5% by weight of water, and more preferably less than about 3% by
weight of water, the forgoing measured in a dry environment, e.g., low
humidity.
One of ordinary skill in the art would recognize that the water content of a
product
such as in the present invention can vary with the relative humidity of the
environment.
The term "conditioning emulsion" as used herein means the combination of
an internal phase comprising a water soluble conditioning agent that is
enveloped by
an external phase comprising an oil soluble agent. In preferred embodiments,
the
conditioning emulsion would further comprise an emulsifer.
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The term "mild" as used herein in reference to the lathering surfactants and
products of the present invention means that the products of the present
invention
demonstrate skin mildness comparable to a mild alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate
(AGS) surfactant based synthetic bar, i.e. synbar. Methods for measuring
mildness,
or inversely the in~itancy, of surfactant containing products, are based on a
skin
barrier destruction test. In this test. the milder the surfactant, the lesser
the skin
barrier is destroyed. Skin barrier destruction is measured by the relative
amount of
radio-labeled (tritium labeled) water (3H-H20) which passes from the test
solution
through the skin epidermis into the physiological buffer contained in the
diffusate
chamber. This test is described by T.J. Franz in the J. Invest. Dermatol..
1975, 64,
pp. 190-19~; and in U.S. Patent No. 4.673,~25,~to Small et al., issued June
16. 1987,
Other testing
methodologies for determining surfactant mildness well known to one skilled in
the
art can also be used.
The personal care products of the present invention comprise the following
essential components: a water insoluble substrate; a lathering surfactant: and
a
conditioning emulsion. Additional active ingredients can also be included
either on
the substrate or within the emulsion. In addition, conditioning agents
described in
the conditioning emulsion section infra can be added onto the substrate
separately
from the conditioning emulsion. An alternative, preferred method is to apply
the
surfactant, the conditioning emulsion, and additional active ingredient
separately to
the substrate.
WATER INSO B S IB~TR_A
The products of the present invcntion comprise a water insoluble substrate.
By "water insoluble" is meant that the substrate does not dissolve in or
readily break
apart upon immersion in water. The water insoluble substrate is the implement
or
vehicle for delivering the lathering surfactant and the conditioning component
of the
present invcntion to the skin or hair to be cleansed and conditioned. Without
being
limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate, by providing mechanical
agitation
provides a lather generating effect and~also aids in the deposition of the
conditioning
component.
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A wide variety of materials can be used as the substrate. The following
nonlimiting characteristics are _desirable: (l) sufficient wet strength for
use, (ii)
sufficient abrasivity, (iii) sufficient loft and porosity, (iv) sufficient
thickness, and
(v) appropriate size.
Nonlimiting examples of suitable insoluble substrates which meet the above
criteria include nonwowen substrates, woven substrates, hydroentangled
substrates,
air entangled substra~:es, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, polymeric
netted
meshes, and the Like. Preferred embodiments employ nonwoven substrates since
they are economical an,d readily available in a variety of materials. By
nonwoven is
meant that the layer i~~ comprised ofd fibers which are not woven into a
fabric but
rather are formed into a sheet, mat, or pad layer. The fibers can either be
random
(i.e., randomly aligne~3) or they can be carded (i.e. combed to be oriented in
primarily one direction). Furthermore, the nonwoven substrate can be composed
of
a combination of layer:. of random and carded fibers.
Nonwoven sub~;trates may be comprised of a variety of materials both natural
and synthetic. By natural is meant that the materials are derived from plants,
animals, insects or byproducts of plants, animals, and insects. By synthetic
is meant
that the materials are obtained primarily from various man-made materials or
from
natural materials which have been further altered. The conventional base
starting
material is usually a filr~rous web comprising any of the common synthetic or
natural
textile-length fibers, or mixtures thereof.
Nonlimiting ex~unples of natural materials useful in the present invention are
silk fibers, keratin fib~:rs and cellulosic fibers. Nonlimiting examples of
keratin
fibers include those selected from the group consisting of wool fibers, camel
hair
fibers, and the like. Nonlimiting examples of cellulosic fibers include those
selected
from the group consisting of wood pulp fibers, cotton fibers, hemp fibers,
jute fibers,
flax fibers, and mixtures thereof:
Nonlimiting examples of synthetic materials useful in the present invention
include those selected from the group consisting of acetate fibers, acrylic
fibers,
cellulose ester fibers, modacrylic fibers, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers,
polyolefin fibers, polyvinyl alcohol fibers, rayon fibers, polyurethane foam,
and
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mixtures thereof. Examples of some of these synthetic materials include
acrylics
such as acrilan, creslan, and the_acrylonitrile-based fiber. orlon; cellulose
ester fibers
such as cellulose acetate, arnel, and acele; polyamides such as nylons (e.;..
nylon 6.
nylon 66, nylon 610, and the like); polyesters such as fortrel, kodel, and the
polyethylene terephthalate fiber, dacron; polyolefins such as polypropylene.
polyethylene; polyvinyl acetate fibers; polyurethane foams and mixtures
thereof.
These and other suitable fibers and the nonwoven materials prepared therefrom
are
generally described in Riedel, "Nonwoven Bonding Methods and Materials,"
j~ionwoven World (1987); The Encyclopedia America_n_a_ vol. 11, pp. 147-153,
and
vol. 26, pp. 566-581 ( 1984); U.S. Patent No. 4,891.227, to Thaman et al..
issued
January ?, 1990; and U.S. Patent No. 4,891:228.
Nonwoven substrates madc from natural materials consist of webs or sheets
most commonly formed on a fine wire screen from a liquid suspension of the
fibers.
~ C.A. Hampel et al., The Ency~nedia of Chemistry, third edition, 1973, pp.
793-795 (1973); The Encyc~lonedia America_n_a, vol. 21, pp. 376-383 (1984);
and G.
A. Smock, Handbook of Pul~and Paper Technologies, Technical Association for
the
Pulp and Paper Industry ( 1986).
Substrates made from natural materials useful in the present invention can be
obtained from a wide variety of commercial sources. Nonlimiting examples of
suitable commercially available paper iaycrs useful herein include AirtexR, an
embossed airlaid cetlulosic layer having a base weight of about 71 gsy,
available
from James River, Green Bay, Wl; and WalkisoftR, an embossed airlaid
cellulosic
having a base weight of about 75 gsy, available from Walkisoft U.S.A., Mount
Holly, NC.
Methods of making nonwoven substrates are well known in the art.
Generally, these nonwovcn substrates can be rna.de by air-laying, water-
laying,
meltblowing, cofotining, spunbonding, or carding processes in which the fibers
or
filaments are first cut to desired lengths from long strands, passed into a
water or air
stream, and then deposited onto a screen through which the fiber-laden air or
water
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is passed. The res,uiting layer, regardless of its method of production or
composition, is then subjected to at least one of several types of bonding
operations
to anchor the individu;~l fibers together to form a self sustaining web. In
the present
invention the nonwoven layer can be prepared by a variety of processes
including
hydroentanglement, thermally bonding or thermo-bonding, and combinations of
these processes. Moreover, the substrates of the present invention can consist
of a
single layer or multiple layers. In addition, a multilayered substrate can
include
films and other nonfibrous materials.
Nonwoven su>,~strates made from synthetic materials useful in the present
invention can also be obtained from a wide variety of commercial sources.
Nonlimiting examples of suitable nonwoven layer materials useful herein
include
HEF 40-047, an apertu~red hydroentangled material containing about 50% rayon
and
50% polyester, and having a basis weight of about 43 grams per square yard
(gsy),
available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; HEF 140-102, an apertured
hydroentangled material containing about 50% rayon and 50% polyester, and
having
a basis weight of about 56 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA;
NovonetR 149-616, a thermo-bonded grid patterned material containing about
100%
polypropylene, and having a basis weight of about 50 gsy, available from
Veratec,
Inc., Walpole, MA; NovonetR 149-801, a thermo-bonded grid patterned material
containing about 69% rayon, about 25% polypropylene, and about 6% cotton, and
having a basis weight of about 75 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc. Walpole,
MA;
NovonetR 149-191, a l:hermo-bonded grid patterned material containing about
69%
rayon, about 25% polypropylene, and about 6% cotton, and having a basis weight
of
about 100 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc. Walpole, MA; HEF NubtexR 149-801,
a
nubbed, apertured hydroentangled material, containing about 100% polyester,
and
having a basis weight ~f about 70 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc. Walpole,
MA;
KeybakR 951 V, a dry formed apertured material, containing about 75% rayon,
about
25% acrylic fibers, and having a basis weight of about 43 gsy, available from
Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; KeybakR 1368, an apertured material, containing
about 75% rayon, about 25% polyester, and having a basis weight of about 39
gsy,
available from Chicopee, Nevv Brunswick, NJ; DuralaceR 1236, an apertured,
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hydroentangled material, containing about 100% rayon, and having a basis
weight
from about 40 gsy to about 11 i gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick,
NJ:
DuralaceR 5904, an apertured, hydroentangled material, containing about
100°~0
polyester, and having a basis weight from about 40 gsy to about ,1 I 5 gsy,
available
from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Sontaro 8868, a hydroentangled material,
containing about SO% cellulose and about 50% polyester, and having a basis
weight
of about 60 gsy, available from Dupont Chemical Corp.
Alternatively. the water insoluble substrate can be a polymeric mesh sponge
as described in European Patent No. EP 702550 AI published March ?7, 1996,
The polymeric sponge comprises a
plurality of plies of an extruded tubular netting mesh prepared from a strong
flexible
polymer, such as addition polymers of olefin monomers and polvamides of
polycarboxylic acids. Although these polymeric sponges are designed to be used
in
conjunction with a liquid cleanser, these types of sponges can be used as the
water
insoluble substrate in the present invention.
The substrate can be made into a wide variety of shapes and forms including
flat pads, thick pads, thin sheets, ball-shaped implements, irregularly shaped
implements. and having sizes ranging from a surface area of about a square
inch to
about hundreds of square inches. The exact size will depend upon the desired
use
and product characteristics. Especially convenient are square. circular,
rectangular,
or oval pads having a surface area of from about 1 in2 to about 144 in',
preferably
from about 10 in2 to about 120 in2, and more preferably from about 30 in2 to
about
80 in-', and a thickness of from about 1 mil to about 500 mil, preferably from
about
mil to about 250 mil, and more preferably from about 10 mil to about 100 mil.
The water insoluble substrates of the present invention can comprise two or
more layers, each having different textures and abrasiveness. The differing
textures
can result from the use of different combinations of materials or from the use
of
different manufacturing processes or a combination thereof. A dual textured
substrate can be made to provide the advantage of having a more abrasive side
for
exfoliation and a softer, absorbent side for gentle cleansing. In addition,
separate
* trademark
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13
layers of the substrate can be manufactured to have different colors, thereby
helping
the user to further distinguish the surfaces.
I ATHEIZIN~ SURFACTANT
The products of the present invention typically comprise from about 0.5% to
about 40%, preferably from about 0.75% to about 20%, and more preferably from
about I % to about I 0%, based on the weight of the water insoluble substrate,
of a
lathering surfactant.
By a lathering surfactant is meant a surfactant, which when combined with
water and mechanically agitated generates a foam or lather. Preferably, these
surfactants or combinations of surfactants should be mild, which means that
these
surfactants provide sufficient cleansing or detersive benefits but do not
overly dn~
the skin or hair. and yet meet the lathering criteria described above.
A wide variety of lathering surfactants are useful herein and include those
selected from the group consisting of anionic lathering surfactants, nonionic
lather
surfactants. amphotheric lathering surfactants. and mixtures thereof.
Generally, the
lathering surfactants do not strongly interfere with deposition of~the
conditioning
agents, e.g.. are fairly water soluble, and usually have an HLB value of above
10.
Cationic surfactants can also be used as optional components. provided they do
not
negatively impact the overall lathering characteristics of the required.
lathering
surfactants.
Anionic Lathering SLrfactan_ts
Nonlimiting examples of anionic lathering surfactants useful in the
compositions of the present invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's,
Deterrents
,I~, North American edition ( 1986), published by allured Publishing
Corporation; McCutcheon's, ~ , North American Edition ( 1992);
and U.S. Patent No. 3,929,678, to Laughlin et al., issued December 30, 1975.
A wide variety of anionic lathering surfactants are useful herein.
Nonlimiting examples of anionic lathering surfactants include those selected
from
the group consisting of sarcosinates, sulfates, isethionates, taurates,
phosphates,
lactylates, glutamates and mixtures thereof. Amongst the isethionates, the
alkoyl
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14
isethionates are preferred, and amongst the sulfates, the alkyl and alkyl
ether sulfates
are preferred. The alkoyl isethionates typically have the formula
RCO-OCH2CH2S03M wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 10 to about 30
carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium,
potassium and triethanolamine. Nonlimiting examples of these isethionates
include
those alkoyl isethionates selected from the group consisting of ammonium
cocoyl
isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionatc, sodium lauroyl isethionate, and
mixtures
thereof.
The alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates typically have the respective formulae
ROS03M and RO(C~H40)xS03M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of from about 10
to about 30 carbon atoms, x is from about 1 to about 10, and M is a water-
soluble
cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium and triethanolamine. Another
suitable class of anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of the
organic,
sulfuric acid reaction products of the general formula:
R1 __503__M
wherein R1 is chosen from the group consisting of a straight or branched
chain,
saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having from about 8 to about 24,
preferably
about 10 to about 16, carbon atoms; and M is a cation. Still other anionic
synthetic
surfactants include the class designated as succinamates, olefin sulfonates
having
about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and b-alkyloxy alkane sulfonates. Examples
of
these materials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate.
Other anionic materials useful herein are soaps (i.e. alkali metal salts,
e.g.,
sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids, typically having from about 8 to
about 24
carbon atoms, preferably from about 10 to about 20 carbon atoms. The fatty
acids
used in making the soaps can be obtained from natural sources such as, for
instance,
plant or animal-derived glycerides (e.g., palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil,
castor
oil, tallow, lard, etc.) The fatty acids can also be synthetically prepared.
Soaps are
described in more detail in U.S. Patent No. 4,557,853, cited above.
Other anionic materials include phosphates such as monoalkyl, dialkyl, and
trialkylphosphate salts.
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IS
Other anionic materials include alkanoyl sarcosinates corresponding to the
formula RCON(CH3)CH.,CH,,CO.,M wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of about 10 to
about 20 carbon atoms, and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium.
sodium.
potassium and alkanolamine (e.g.. triethanolamine), preferred examples of
which are
sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl
sarcosinate, and sodium myristoyl sarcosinate. TEA salts of sarcosinates are
also
useful.
Also useful are taurates which are based on taurine, which is also known as
2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. Especially useful are taurates having carbon
chains
between Cg and C16. Examples of taurates include N-alkyltaurines such as the
one
prepared by reacting dodecylamine with sodium isethionate according to the
teaching of U.S. Patent 2.6~8,072~
Further nonlimiting examples include ammonium, sodium, potassium and
alkanolamine (e.g.. triethanolamine) salts of lauroyl methyl taurate.
myristoyl
methyl taurate. and co~~yl methyl taurate.
Also useful are lactylates, especially those having carbon chains between Cg
and C 16. Nonlirttiting examples of lactylates include ammonium, sodium,
potassium and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroyl lactylate,
cocoyl
lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, and caproyl lactylate.
Also useful herein as anionic surfactants are glutamates, especially those
having carbon chains between Cg and C 16. NonIimiting examples of glutamates
include ammonium, sodium, potassium and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine)
salts of Iauroyl glutamate, myristoyl glutamate, and cocoyl glutamate.
Nonlimi;ting examples of preferred anionic lathering surfactants useful herein
include those selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulfate,
ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium Iaureth sulfate,
sodium
trideceth sulfate, ammonium cetyl sulfate, sodium cetyl sulfate, ammonium
cocoyl
isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl lactylate,
triethanolamine
lauroyl lactylate, sodium caproyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate,
sodium
myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl methyl
taurate,
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16
sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, and sodium cocoyl
glutamate and mixtures thereof._
Especially preferred for use herein is ammonium lauryl sulfate. ammonium
laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate. and triethanolamine lauroyl
lactylate.
Nonlimiting examples of nonionic lathering surfactants for use in the
compositions of the present invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's.
Determents
and Emulsifiers, North American edition ( 1986), published by allured
Publishing
Corporation; and McCutcheon's, ~,tnetional Materials, .North American Edition
( 199'_' ~.
Nonionic latherine surfactants useful herein include those selected from the
group consisting of alkyl glucosides. alkyl polygiucosides, polyhydroxv fatty
acid
amides. alkoxylated fatty acid esters, sucrose esters, amine oxides. and
mixtures
thereof.
.~Ikd glucosides and alkyl polyglucosides are useful herein. and can be
broadly defined as condensation products of long chain alcohols, e.g. C8-30
alcohols, with sugars or starches or sugar or starch polymers, i.e.,
glycosides or
polyFlycosides. These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)n-O-R
wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose:
n is
an integer of from about 1 to about 1000, and R is a C8-30 alkyl group.
Examples
of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group can be derived include decyl
alcohol, cety! alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol. myristyl alcohol,
oleyl
alcohol. and thr like. Preferred examples of these surfactants include those
wherein
S is a glucose moiety, R is a C8-20 alkyl group, and n is an integer of from
about 1
to about 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl
polyglucoside (available as APG 3''S CS from Henkel) and lauryl polyglucoside
(available as APG 600CS and b25 CS from Henkel). Also useful are sucrose ester
surfactants such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.
Other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acid amide
surfactants, more specific examples of which include glucosamides,
corresponding
to the structural formula:
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17
O R1
R~ C N
wherein: RI is H, Cl-C4 alkyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxy- 'propyl, preferably
C 1-C4 alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl, most ~pre'ferably methyl; R2 is
C~-C31 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C7-C19 alkyl or alkenyl. .more preferably
C9-C 17 alkyl or alkenyl. most preferably C 1 I -C I 5 alkyl or alkenyl; and Z
is a
polhydroxyhydrocarbyl moiety having a linear hydrocarbyl chain with a least 3
hydroxyls directly connected to the chain. or an alkoxylated derivative
(preferably
ethoxylated or propoxylated) thereof. Z preferably is a sugar moiety selected
from
the group consisting of glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose,
mannose,
xylose, and mixtures thereof. An especially prefer ed surfactant corresponding
to
the above structure is coconut alkyl N-methyl glucoside amide (i.e.. wherein
the
R'CO- moiety is derived from coconut oil fatty acids). Processes for making
compositions containing polyhydroxy fatty acid amides are disclosed, for
example,
in G.B. Patent Specification 809,060, published February -18, 1959, by Thomas
Hedley ~ Co.. Ltd.; U.S. Patent No. ?,96~.~76, to E. R. Wilson, issued
December
'_'0, 1960; L.S. Patent No. 2,703,798, to A.M. Schwartz, issued March 8, 1955;
and
U.S. Patent No. 1,985,424, to Piggott, issued December 25, 1934.
Other examples of nonionic surfactants include amine oxides. Amine oxides
correspond to the general formula RIR2R3N0, wherein R1 contains an alkyl,
alkenyl or monohydroxy alkyl radical of from about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms,
from 0 to about 10 ethylene oxide moieties, and from 0 to about I glyceryl
moiety,
and R~ and R3 contain from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and from 0 to about
1
hydroxy group, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl
radicals.
The arrow in the formula is a conventional representation of a semipolar bond.
Examples of amine oxides suitable for use in this invention include dimethyl-
dodecylamine oxide,, oleyldi(2-hydroxyethyl) amine oxide, dimethyloctylamine
CA 02289608 2004-02-27
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18
oxide, dimethvl-decylamine oxide, dimethyl-tetradecylamine oxide. 3.6,9-
trioxaheptadecyldiethylamine oxide. di(2-hydroxyethyl)-tetradecylamine oxide,
2
dodecoxyethyldimethylamine oxide, 3-dodecoxy-2-hydroxvpropyldi(s-
hydroxypropyl)amine oxide, dimethylhexadecylamine oxide.
Nonlimiting examples of preferred nonionic surfactants for use herein are
those selected form the group consisting of C8-C14 glucose amides, C8-Cl4
alkyl
polyglucosides, sucrose cocoate. sucrose laurate, lauramine oxide, cocoamine
oxide.
and mixtures thereof.
The term "amphoteric lathering surfactant," as used herein, is also intended
to encompass zwitterionic surfactants, which a~e well known to formulators
skilled
in the art as a subset of amphoteric surfactants.
A wide variety of amphoteric lathering surfactants can be used in the
compositions of the prcscnt invention. Particularly useful are those which are
broadly described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines,
prcfcrably wherein the nitrogen is in a cationic state, in which the aliphatic
radicals
can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the radicals contains an
ionizable water solubilizing group, e.g:, carboxy. sulfonate; sulfate,
phosphate, or
phosphonatc.
Nonlimiting examples of amphotcric surfactants useful in the compositions
of the prcscnt invention are disclosed in McCutcheon's, Detergents and
Emulsifiers,
North American edition ( 1986), published by allured Publishing Corporation:
and
McCutchcon's, ~~L~~taterial~, North American Edition (1992).
Nonlimiting examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are those
selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultaines, hydroxysultaines,
alkyliminoacetates. iminodialkanoatcs, aminoalkanoates. and mixtures thereof.
Examples of betaines include the higher alkyl betaines, such as corn
dimcthyl carboxymethyl bctainc, lauryl dimethyl carboxymethyl betaine, lauryl
dimethyl alphacarboxycthyl betaine, cetyl dimethyl caiboxymethyl betaine,
cetyl
dimcthyl betaine (available as Lonzaine~ 16SP from Lonza Corp.), lauryl
* trademark
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19
bis-(2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl betaine, oleyl dimethyl gamma-carboxypropyl
betaine, lauryl bis-(2-hydroxypropyl)alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, coco dimethvl
sulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethyl sulfoethyl betaine, lauryi bis-(2-
hvdroxyethvl)
sulfopropyl betaine, amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (wherein the
RCONH(CH~)3 radical is attached to the nitrogen atom of the betaine). oleyl
betaine (available as amphoteric Velvetex'~ OLB-50 from Henkel), and
cocamidopropyl betaine (available as Velvetex Bh-35 and BA-35 from Henkel).
Examples of sultaines and hydroxysultaines include materials such as
cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (available as Mirataine CBS from
Rhone-Poulenc).
Preferred for use herein are amphoteric surfactants having the following
structure:
O R2
II +I _
R1--(C-NH-(CH2)m)~ N-R4-X
R3
wherein R 1 is unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched
chain
alkyl havinc from about 9 to about ?'_' carbon atoms. Preferred R1 has froth
about
11 to about 18 carbon atoms: more preferably from about 1? to about 18 carbon
atoms; more preferably still from about 14 to about 18 carbon atoms; m is an
integer
from 1 to about 3. more preferably from about 2 to about 3. and more
preferably
about 3; n is either 0 or 1, preferably 1; R~ and R3 are independently
selected from
the group consisting of alkyl having from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms,
unsubstituted
or mono-substituted with hydroxy, preferred R' and R3 are CH3; X is selected
from
the group consisting of CO~, S03 and S04; R4 is selected from the group
consisting of saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain alkyl,
unsubstituted or monosubstituted with hydroxy, having from 1 to about 5 carbon
atoms. When X is CO~, R4 preferably has 1 or 3 carbon atoms, more preferably 1
carbon atom. When X is S03 or S04, R4 preferably has from about 2 to about 4
carbon atoms. more preferably 3 carbon atoms.
* trademark
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WO 98/52538 PCT/IB98/00786
E~camples of amphoteric surfactants of the present invention include the
following compounds: -
Cetyl dimethyl betaine (this material also has the CTFA designation cetyl
betaine)
+C H3
C ~ gH~-N-C H2-C 02
CH3
Cocamidopropylbetaine
O C H3
R-C-NH-(CH2)3 ~ N-CH2-C02
C H3
wherein R has from about 9 to about 13 carbon atoms
Cocamidopropyl hydroxy sultaine
~H3 OH
R-C-NH-(CH2~ ~N--CH2-CH-CH2-SOg
CH3
wherein R has from about 9 to about 13 carbon atoms,
Examples of other uscfu! amphoteric surfactants are alkyliminoacetates, and
iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates of the formulas RN(CH2)mC02M]2 and
RNH(CH~)mC02M wherein m is from 1 to 4, R is a Cg-C2~ alkyl or alkenyl, and
M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal ammonium, or alkanolammonium. Also
included arc imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. Specific examples of
suitable amphoteric surfactants include sodium 3-dodecyl-aminopropionate,
sodium
3-dodecylarninopropane sulfonate, N-higher alkyl aspartic acids such as those
produced according to the teaching of U.S. Patent 2,438,091:
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WO 98/52538 PCT/IB98/00786
and the products sold under the trade name
"Miranol" and described in U.S. Patent ?.28.378,.
Other examples of useful amphoterics include amphoteric
phosphates, such as coamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate
(commercially available as Monaquat PTC, from Mona Corp.). Also useful are
amphoacetates such as disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate.
and mixtures thereof.
Preferred lathering surfactants for use herein are the following, wherein the
anionic lathering surfactant is selected from the group .consisting of
ammonium
lauroyl sarcosinate. sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate.
ammonium
laureth sulfate. sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium
lauryl
sulfate, ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate. sodium
lauroyt
isethionate. sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium lawoyl lactylate, triethanolamine
Iauroyl
lactylate, and mixtwes thercof; wherein the nonionic lathering surfactant is
selected
from the group consisting of lauramine oxide, cocoamine oxide, decyl
polyglucose.
lauryl polyglucose, sucrose cocoate, C12-14 glucosamides, sucrose laurate, and
mixtures thereof; and wherein the amphoteric lathering surfactant is selected
from
the croup consisting of disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodiurri
lauroairiphoacetate,
cey 1 dimethyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl betaine, cocoamidopropyl hydroxy
sulcaine, and rnixturcs thereof.
~O'~D,1TI0!VING EMUI_.SION
The products of the present invention comprise a conditioning emulsion
which is uscful for providing a conditioning benefit to the skin or hair
during the use
of the product. The conditioning cmulsion comprises from about 0.25% to about
150%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 100%, and more preferably from about
I °~o to about 50% by weight of said water insoluble substrate. By a
conditioning
cmulsion is mcant a combination of an internal phase comprising a water
soluble
conditioning agent that is enveloped by an cxternal phase comprising an oil
soluble
agent. In preferred cmbodiments, the conditioning emulsion would further
comprise
an emulsifer. '
* trademark
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WO 98/52538 PCT/1B98/00786
22
The conditioning emulsion of the present invention comprises (l) an internal
phase comprising water soluble conditioning agents, and (ii) an external phase
comprising oil soluble agents. In further embodiments, the conditioning
emulsion
further comprises an emulsifier capable of forming an emulsion of said
internal and
external phases. Although an emulsifier capable of forming an emulsion of the
internal and external phases is preferred in the present invention, it is
recognized in
the art of skin care formulations that a water soluble conditioning agent can
be
enveloped by an oil soluble agent without an emulsifier. As long as the water
soluble conditioning agent is enveloped by the oil soluble agent, thereby
protected
from being rinsed away during the cleansing process, the composition would be
within the scope of the present invention.
The oil soluble agent is selected from one or more oil soluble agents such
that the weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter of the oil soluble
agent is less
than or equal to 10.5. The water soluble conditioning agent is selected from
one or
more water soluble conditioning agents such that the weighted arithmetic mean
solubility parameter of the water soluble conditioning agent is greater than
10.5. It
is recognized, based on this mathematical definition of solubility parameters,
that it
is possible, for example, to achieve the required weighted arithmetic mean
solubility
parameter, i.e. less than or equal to 10.5, for an oil soluble conditioning
agent
comprising two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual
solubility parameter greater than 10.5. Conversely, it is possible to achieve
the
appropriate weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter, i.e. greater than
10.5, for
a water soluble conditioning agent comprising two or more compounds if one of
the
compounds has an individual solubility parameter less than or equal to 10.5.
Solubility parameters are well known to the formulation chemist of ordinary
skill in the art and are routinely used as a guide for determining
compatibilities and
solubilities of materials in the formulation process.
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23
The solubility parameter of a chemical compound, b, is defined as the square
root of the cohesive energy density for that compound. Typically. a solubility
parameter for a compound is calculated from tabulated values of the additive
group
contributions for the heat of vaporization and molar volume of the components
of
that compound, using the following equation:
1~~
~Ei
l
s -
~mi
l
wherein L'i Ei = the sum of the heat of vaporization additive group
conuibutions. and
~ m = the sum of the molar volume additive group contributions
l s
Standard tabulations of heat of vaporization and molar volume additive group
contributions for a wide variety of atoms and groups of atoms are collected in
Barton. A.F.1~4. Ham ok of ~QJubili 3~ Parameters, CRC Press, Chapter 6, Table
3,
PP~ x-66 (1985). The
above solubility parameter equation is described in Fedors, R. F., "A Method
for
Estimating Both the Solubility Parameters and Molar Volumes of Liquids",
Polymer
~ineeri and Science, vol. 14, no. 2, pp. 147-154 (February 1974),
Solubility parameters obey the law of mixtures such that the solubility
parameter for a mixture of materials is given by the weighted arithmetic mean
(i.e.
the weighted average) of the solubility parameters for each component of that
mixture. Wig, Handbook of Chemistry and PhYSICS, 57th edition, CRC Press, p. C-
7?6 (1976-1977).,
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24
Formulation chemists typically report and use solubility parameters in units
of (cal/cm~)1/~. The tabulated values of additive group contributions for heat
of
vaporization in the Handbook of SolubilitX Parameters are reported in units of
kJ/mol. However, these tabulated heat of vaporization values are readily
convened
to cahmol using the following, well-known relationships:
1 J/mol = 0.239006 cal/mol and 1000 J = 1 kJ.
S~ Gordon, A. J. et al., The Chemist's Companion, John Wiley & Sons, pp. 456-
463. ( 197?),
Solubility parameters have also been tabulated for a wide variety of chemical
materials. Tabulations of solubility parameters are found in the above-cited
handbook of Solubility Parameters. Also, see "Solubility Effects In Product,
Package. Penetration, And Presen~ation", C.D. Vaughan, Cosmetics and
Toiletries,
vol. 103, October 1988, pp. 47-69.
The Ertemal Phase of the ~nnditionin,g .mullion
The external phase of the conditioning emulsion comprises an oil soluble
agent. Anv oil soluble agent or a combination of oil soluble agents having a
weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter of less than or equal to 10.5
can be
used in the external phase. Preferably, the oil soluble agent is an oil
soluble
conditioning agent used to condition the skin or hair.
Nonlimiiing examples of conditioning agents useful as oil soluble
conditioning agents include those selected from the group consisting of
mineral oil,
petrolatum. C7-C40 branched chain hydrocarbons, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-
C30
carboxylic acids, Cl-C30 alcohol esters of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids,
monoglyceridcs of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, diglycerides of Cl-C30 carboxylic
acids, triglycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol monoesters of
C1-
C30 carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol diesiers of C1-C30 carboxylic acids,
propylene glycol monocsters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol
diesters
of CI-C30 carboxylic acids, Cl-C30 carboxylic acid monoesters and polyesters
of
sugars, poiydialkylsiloxancs, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes,
cylcomechicones having 3 to 9 silicon atoms, vegetable oils, hydrogenated
vegetable
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WO 98/52538 PCTIIB98/00786
oils, polypropylene glycol C4-C?0 alkyl ethers, dl C8-C30 alkyl ethers, and
mixtures thereof.
Mineral oil, which is also known as petrolatum liquid. is a mixture of liquid
.
hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. ~ 'The Merck Index, Tenth Edition, Entry
7048, p. 1033 ( 1983) and International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary. Fifth
Edition, vol. 1. p.41 ~-41 ? ( 1993 ).
Petrolatum, which is also known as petroleum jelly. is a colloidal system of
nonstraight-chain solid hydrocarbons and high-boiling liquid hydrocarbons, in
which
most of the liquid hydrocarbons are held inside the micelles. egg The Merck
Index.
Tenth Edition. Entry 7047, p. 1033 (1983); S~chindler, Drug. ~~net. Ind.. 89.
36-
37, 76, 78-80. 8'_' ( 1961 ): and Jntetnational Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary, Fifth
Edition, vol. 1, p. 537 (1993),
Straight and hunched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40
carbon atoms are useful herein. Nonlimiting examples of these hydrocarbon
materials include dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated
polyisobutylene, docosane (i.e. a C2~ hydfocarbon). hexadecane, isohexadecane
(a
commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permethyl~ IOIA by Presperse, South
Plainfield, NJ). Also useful are the C7-C40 isoparafftns, which are C7-C40
branched hydrocarbons.
Also useful are C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and of C2-
C30 dicarboxyiic acids, including straight and branched chain materials as
weal as
aromatic derivatives. Also usefirl are esters such as monoglycerides of C1-C30
carboxylic acids, diglycerides of C 1-C30 carboxylic acids, triglycerides of C
1-C30
carboxylic acids, ethylene glycol monoesters of C I -C30 carboxylic acids,
ethylene
glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propylene glycol monoesters of C1-
C30
carboxylic acids, and propylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids.
Straight
chain, branched chain and aryl carboxylic acids are included herein. Also
useful are
propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of these materials. Nonlimiting
examples
include diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate,
isopropyl
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26
palmitate, myristyl propionate, ethylene glycol distearate, 2-ethylhexyl
palmitate,
isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl
myristate,
stearyl stearate, cetyl stearate, behenyl behenrate, dioctyl maleate, dioctyl
sebacate,
diisopropyl adipate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, caprilic/capric
triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-8 caprylic/capric
triglyceride,
and mixtures thereof.
Also useful are various Cl-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and
related materials. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and
one or
more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar,
these
esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of
liquid
esters include: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil
fatty acids
(unsaturated), the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the
galactose
tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose
tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol
hexaesters of
unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate,
sucrose
pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and
mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaester in
which the
carboxylic acid ester moieties are palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1:2 molar
ratio;
the octaester of raffinose in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are
linoleate
and behenate in a 1:3 molar ratio; the heptaester of maltose wherein the
esterifying
carboxylic acid moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in
a 3:4
molar ratio; the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid
moieties
are oleate and behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose
wherein the
esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a
1:3:4
molar ratio. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which the
degree of
esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C 18 mono-
and/or di-
unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1:7 to
3:5. A
particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the octaester of sucrose in
which there
are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the
molecule. Other materials include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid
esters of
sucrose. The ester materials are further described in, U.S. Patent No.
2,831,854,
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27
U.S. Patent No. 4.005,196, to Jandacek, issued January 26. 1977; U.S. Patent
No.
4.006,196, to Jandacek, issued January 26, 1977, U.S. Patent No. 6.306.616. to
Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5.306.51 ~, to Letton et
al.,
issued April 26, 1994; U.S. Patent No. 5,305.514, to Letton et al., issued
April 26,
1994; U.S. Patent No. 4,797,300, to Jandacek et al., issued January 10, 1989;
U.S.
Patent No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued June 15, 1976; U.S. Patent No.
4,618,772, to Volpenhein. issued May 21, 1985: and I;J.S. Patent No.
4.517,360, to
Volpenhein, issued May 21. 1986.
Nonvolatile silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes. and
polyalkarylsiloxanes are also useful oils. These silicones are disclosed in
U.S.
Patent No. 6.069,897. to Orr. issued December 3. 1991.
The polyalkylsiloxanes correspond to the general
chemical formula R3Si0[R~SiO]xSiR3 wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R
is
methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to about 500,
chosen
to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available
polyalkylsiloxanes
include the polydimethylsiloxanes, which are also known as dimethicones,
nonlimiting examples of which include the Vicasil~ series sold by General
Electric
Company and the Dow Corning~ 200 series sold by Dow Corning Corporation.
Specific examples of polydimethylsiloxanes useful herein include Dow Coming~
2?6 fluid having a viscosity of 10 centistokes and a boiling point greater
than 200°C,
and Dow Corning~ 200 fluids having viscosities of 50, 360, and 12,500
centistokes,
respectively, and boiling points greater than 200°C. Also useful are
materials such
as trimcthylsiloxysilicate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the
general chemical formula [(CH~)3Si01~]x[Si02]y, wherein x is an integer from
about I to about 500 and y is an inttger from about I to about 500. A
commercially
available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a mixture with dimethicone as Dow
Coming~ 593 fluid. Also useful herein are dimethiconols, which are hydroxy
terminated dimethyl silicones. These materials can be represented by the
general
chemical formulas R3Si0[R2Si0]xSiR20H and HOR~SiO[R2Si0]xSiR20H.
wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably
CA 02289608 1999-11-16
WO 98/52538 PCT/IB98/00786
28
methyl) and x is an integer up to about 500, chosen to achieve the desired
molecular
weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures
with
dimethicone or cyclomethicone (e.g. Dow Corning~ 1401, 1402, and 1403 fluids).
Also useful herein are polyalkylaryl siloxanes, with polymethylphenyl
siloxanes
having viscosities from about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25°C being
preferred.
These materials are available, for example, as SF 1075 methylphenyl fluid
(sold by
General Electric Company) and 556 Cosmetic Grade phenyl trimethicone fluid
(sold
by Dow Corning Corporation).
Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils are also useful herein.
Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower
oil,
castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm
oil,
peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil,
sesame oil,
sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated safflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil,
hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhaden
oil,
hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil,
hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil,
hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower
seed
oil, and mixtures thereof.
Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C1-C20
carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers.
Nonlimiting examples of these materials include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15
stearyl
ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
Internal Phase of the onditioning Emulsion
The internal phase of the conditioning emulsion comprises a water soluble
conditioning agent. Any water soluble conditioning agent or a combination of
water
soluble conditioning agents having a weighted arithmetic mean solubility
parameter
of greater than 10.5 can be used in the internal phase. In addition, any water
soluble
ingredient listed in the "Additional Ingredients" and "Active Ingredients" may
be
incorporated into the internal phase of the conditioning emulsion provided
that the
water soluble ingredient is compatible with the water soluble conditioning
agent and
does not promote instability of the conditioning emulsion.
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29
Nonlimiting examples of conditioning agents useful as water soluble
conditioning agents include those selected from the group consisting of
polyhydric
alcohols, polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, areas, pyrolidone
carboxylic
acids, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated C3-C6 diols and triols, alpha-hydroxy
C2-C6
carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and/or propoxylated sugars, polyacrylic acid
copolymers, sugars having up to about 12 carbons atoms, sugar alcohols having
up
to about 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of useful
water
soluble conditioning agents include materials such as urea; guanidine;
glycolic acid
and glycolate salts (e.g., ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic
acid
and lactate salts (e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium): sodium PCA;
sucrose, fructose, glucose. eruthrose, erythritol, sorbitol. mannitol,
glycerol,
hexanetriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol. and the Like;
polyethylene glycols such as PEG-2, PEG-3, PEG-30, PEG-50. polypropylene
glycols such as PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-IS, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG
3-t; alkoxylated glucose; hyaluronic acid; panthenol: niacinamide; and
mixtures
thereof Also useful are materials such as aloe vera in any of its variety of
forms
(e.g., aloe vera gel). chitin, honey extract, starch-grafted sodium
polyacryiates such
*
as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500, and IM-500 (available from Celanese
Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmouth, VA); lactamide monoethanolamine;
acetamide monoethanolamine; and mixtures thereof. Also useful are propoxylated
glyccrols as described in propoxylated glycerols described in U.S. Patent No.
4.976,953, to Orr et al., issued December 11, 1990.
The internal phase can also optionally comprise water. Just enough water to
solubiliu the water soluble conditioning agent is needed. In general, the
amount of
water varies depending upon the material that needs to be dissolved, e.g.,
solubility
in water and Theology. Thus, water soluble agents, which are solid or very
viscous
at processing temperatures, require more water than a material which is less
viscous
or liquid at processing temperatures. Similarly, water soluble conditioning
agents
which have high solubility in water would require less water than conditioning
agents that havc low solubility in water.
* trademark
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The internal phase can optionally comprise other water-soluble or dispersible
materials that do not adversely affect the stability of the conditioning
emulsion. One
such material is a water-soluble electrolyte. The dissolved electrolyte
minimizes the
tendency of materials present in the lipid phase to also dissolve in the water
phase.
Any electrolyte capable of imparting ionic strength to the internal phase can
be used.
Suitable electrolytes include the water soluble mono-, di- or trivalent
inorganic salts
such as water-soluble halides, e.g.. chlorides, nitrates and sulfates of
alkali metals
and alkaline earth metals. Examples of such electrolytes include sodium
chloride.
calcium chloride. sodium sulfate. magnesium sulfate. and sodium bicarbonate.
The
electrolyte will typically be included in a concentration in the range of from
about 1
to about 20% of the internal phase.
Other water-soluble or dispersible materials that can be present in the
internal
phase include thickeners and viscosiy modifiers. Suitable thickeners and
viscosity
modifiers include water-soluble polyacrylic and hydrophobicaily modified
polyacwlic resins such as Carbopol~and Pemulen.~ starches such as corn starch.
potato starch, tapioca, gums such as guar gum, gum arabic, cellulose ethers
such as
hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose. carboxvmethyl cellulose, and
the
like. These thickeners and viscosity modifiers will typically be included in a
concentration in the range of from about 0.0~ to about 0.5% of the internal
phase.
Other water soluble or dispersible materials that can be present in the
internal
water phasr include polycationic polymers to provide steric stabilization at
the
water-lipid interface and nonionic polymers that also stabilize the water-in-
lipid-
emulsion. Suitable polycationic polymers include Reten 201, Kymene 557H~ and
Acco ~71 I''. Suitable nonionic polymers include polyethylene glycols (PEG)
such as
Carbowax. These polycationic and nonionic polymers will typically be included
in a
concentration in the range of from about O.I to about 1.0% of the internal
phase.
~m~rL~.ifi~I
Preferred embodiments of the products of the present invention comprise an
emulsifier capable of forming an emulsion of the internal and external phases.
In the
emulsions of the present invention, the emulsifier is included in an effective
amount.
* trademark
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31
What constitutes an "e:ffective amount" will depend on a number of factors
including
the respective amounts of the oil soluble agents, the type of emulsifier used,
the level
of impurities present in the emulsifier, and like factors. Typically, the
emulsifier
comprises from about 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably from about 1 % to about
10%,
and more preferably from about 3% to about 6% by weight of the conditioning
emulsion.
The emulsifiers useful in the present invention typically are oil soluble or
miscible with the oil soluble external phase materials, especially at the
temperature
at which the lipid ma~:erial melts. It also should have a relatively low HLB
value.
Emulsifiers suitable fix use in the present invention have HLB values
typically in
the range of from about 1 to about 7 and can include mixtures of different
emulsifiers. Preferably, these emulsifiers will have HLB values from about 1.5
to
about 6, and more preferably from about 2 to about 5.
A wide variety of emulsifiers are useful herein and include, but not limited
to, those selected from the ~;roup consisting of sorbitan esters, glyceryl
esters,
polyglyceryl esters, methyl glucose esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty
alcohols,
hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates, sorbitan ester ethoxylates, polymeric
emulsifiers, and silicone emulsifiers.
Sorbitan esters are useful in the present invention. Preferable are sorbitan
esters of C I 6-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids.
Because of
the manner in which l:hey are typically manufactured, these sorbitan esters
usually
comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, etc. esters. Representative examples of
suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate {e.g., SPAN~ 80),
sorbitan
sesquioleate (e.g., Arlacel~ 83), sorbitan monoisostearate (e.g., CRILL~ 6
made by
Croda), sorbitan stearates (e.g., SPAN~ 60), sorbitan triooleate (e.g., SPAN~
85),
sorbitan tristearate (e.g., SPAN~ 65), sorbitan dipalmitates (e.g., SPAN~ 40),
and
sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate are
particularly preferred emulsifiers for use in the present invention.
Other suitable emulsifiers for use in the present invention include, but is
not
limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C I 6-C22
saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such as glyceryl oleate,
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32
glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate, and
mixtures thereof; polyglycery-1 esters of C 16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and
branched chain fatty acids, such as polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3
oleate,
diglycerol monooleate, tetraglycerol monooleate and mixtures thereof; methyl
glucose esters, preferably methyl glucose esters of Clb-C22 saturated,
unsaturated
and branched chain fatty acids such as methyl glucose dioleate, methyl glucose
sesquiisostearate, and mixtures thereof; sucrose fatty acid esters, preferably
sucrose
esters of C 12-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched chain fatty acids such
as
sucrose stearate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose distearate (e.g., Crodesta~ F
10), and
mixtures thereof; C 12-C22 ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-2, oleth-
3,
steareth-2, and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates such as
PEG-7
hydrogenated castor oil; sorbitan ester ethoxylates such as PEG-40 sorbitan
peroleate, Polysorbate-80, and mixtures thereof; polymeric emulsifiers such as
ethoxylated dodecyl glycol copolymer; and silicone emulsifiers such as
laurylmethicone copolyol, cetyldimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, and mixtures
thereof.
In addition to these primary emulsifiers, the compositions of the present
invention can optionally contain a coemulsifier to provide additional water-
lipid
emulsion stability. Suitable coemulsifiers include, but is not limited to,
phosphatidyl
cholines and phosphatidyl choiine-containing compositions such as lecithins;
long
chain C 16-C22 fatty acid salts such as sodium stearate; long chain C 16-C22
dialiphatic, short chain C1-C4 dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts such as
ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride and ditallow dimethyl ammonium
methylsulfate; long chain C 16-C22 dialkoyl(alkenoyl}-2-hydroxyethyl, short
chain
C1-C4 dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts such as ditallowoyl-2-hydroxyethyl
dimethyl ammonium chloride; the long chain C I 6-C22 dialiphatic imidazolinium
quaternary ammonium salts such as methyl-1-tallow amido ethyl-2-tallow
imidazolinium methylsulfate and methyl-1-oleyl amido ethyl-2-oleyl
imidazolinium
methylsulfate; short chain C I -C4 dialiphatic, long chain C 16-C22
monoaliphatic
benzyl quaternary ammonium salts such as dimethyI stearyl benzyl ammonium
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chloride, and synthetic phospholipids such as stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium
chloride (Phospholipid PTS frcun Mona Industries).
ADDITIONAL INGREDIENy
The products of the present invention can comprise a wide range of optional
ingredients. Some of these ingredients are listed in more detail herein.
Particularly
useful are various active ingredients useful for delivering various benefits
of the skin
or hair during the cleansing and conditioning process. If the ingredient is
compatible
with the internal or external phases of the conditioning emulsion, the
ingredient can
be incorporated into the appropriate phases. This is especially true with
water
soluble active ingredients which are compatible with the internal phase and do
not
promote instability of the conditioning emulsion. In these compositions, the
product
is useful for delivering; the active ingredient to the skin or hair.
Furthermore, any of the conditioning agents described above in sections
describing the internal (water soluble) and external (oil soluble) phases of
the
conditioning emulsion may be added to the substrate separately from the
conditioning emulsion.
ACTIVE INGREDIErJ~
The compositions of the present invention can comprise a safe and effective
amount of one or more active ingredients or pharmaceutically-acceptable salts
thereof.
The term "safe and effective amount" as used herein, means an amount of an
active ingredient high enough to modify the condition to be treated or to
deliver the
desired skin benef t, but low enough to avoid serious side effects, at a
reasonable
benefit to risk ratio within the scope of sound medical judgment. What is a
safe and
effective amount of the active ingredient will vary with the specific active,
the
ability of the active to penetrate through the skin, the age, health
condition, and skin
condition of the user, and other like factors.
The active ingredients useful herein can be categorized by their therapeutic
benefit or their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood
that the
active ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one
therapeutic benefit or operate; via more than one mode of action. Therefore,
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34
classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not
intended to
limit the active ingredient to that particular application or applications
listed. Also.
pharmaceutically-acceptable salts of these active ingredients are useful
herein. The
following active ingredients are useful in the compositions of the present
invention.
Anti-Acne Actives: Examples of useful anti-acne actives include the
keratolytics
such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), derivatives of salicylic acid
such as
~-octanoyl salicylic acid, and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and
its
derivatives (e.g., cis and trans); sulfur-containing D and L amino acids and
their
derivatives and salts, particularly their N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred
example of
which is N-acetyl-L-eysteine; lipoic acid; antibiotics and antimicrobials such
as
henzoyl peroxide, octopirox, tetracycline, 2,4.4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy
diphenyl ether,
3,4.4'-trichlorobanilide, azelaic acid and its derivatives, phenoxyethanol,
phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, ethyl acetate, clindamycin and
meclocycline; sebostats such as flavonoids; and bile salts such as scymnol
sulfate
and its derivatives. deoxycholate, and cholate.
Anti-~)l'rinl:le and Anti-Skin Atro~v Actives: Examples of antiwrinkle~ and
anti-
skin atrophy actives include retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and
traps);
retinol: retinyl esters; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; sulfur-
containing D and
L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly the N=acetyl
derivatives, a
preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; thiols. e.g. ethane thiol;
hydroxy
acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid, and skin peel agents
(e.g.,
phenol and the like); ascorbic acid and its derivatives.
Non,-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatyctive (,~1~ AID 1: Examples of NSAIDS
include the following categories: propionic acid derivatives; acetic acid
derivatives;
fenamic acid derivatives; biphcnylcarboxylic acid derivatives; and oxicams.
All of
these NSAIDS are fully described in U.S. Patent 4,985,459 to Sunshine et al.,
issued
January 15, 1991. Examples of
useful NSAIDS include acetyl salicylic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen,
benoxaprofen,
flurbiprofen, fenoprofen, fenbufen, ketoprofen, indoprofen, pirprofen,
carprofen,
oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, tioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen,
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tiaprofenic acid, fluprofen and bucloxic acid. Also useful are the steroidal
anti-
inflammatory drugs including l~.ydrocortisone and the like.
Topical Anesthetics: Examples of topical anesthetic drugs include benzocaine,
lidocaine, bupivacai ne, chlorprocaine, dibucaine, etidocaine, mepivacaine,
tetracaine, dyclonine, hexylcaine, procaine, cocaine, ketamine, pramoxine,
phenol,
and pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof.
Artificial Tanning Agents and Accelerators. Examples of artificial tanning
agents
and accelerators include dihydroxyacetone, tyrosine, tyrosine esters such as
ethyl
tyrosinate, and phospho-DOPA.
Antimicrobial and Amtifungal Actives: Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal
actives include 13-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin,
tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl
ether,
3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxy propanol,
phenoxyisopropanol,
doxycycline, capreo:mycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline,
clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine,
gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline,
neomycin, netilmicin, parornomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole,
tetracycline hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin
estolate,
erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride,
capreomycin
sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride,
chlortetracycline
hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride,
ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine
hydrochloride,
gentamicin sulfate, k:anamycin sulfate, lineomycin hydrochloride, methacycline
hydrochloride, methe:namine hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocycline
hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate, paromomycin sulfate,
streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine
hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate, octopirox, parachlorometa xylenol,
nystatin,
tolnaftate, zinc pyrithi~~ne and clotrimazole.
Preferred examples of actives useful herein include those selected from the
group consisting of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid,
4-
hydroxy benzoic arid, acetyl salicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-
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36
hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid. cis-retinoic acid, trans-
retinoic
acid, retinol. ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, phytic acid. N-acetyl-L-
cysteine.
lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoylperoxide, tetracycline,
ibuprofen,
naproxen. hydrocortisone, acetominophen, resorcinol, phenoxyethanol.
phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenvl
ether,
3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole,
miconazole, neocycin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
t
Sunscreen Actives: Also useful herein are sunscreening actives. A wide variety
of
sunscreening agents are described in U.S. Patent No. 5.087,445, to Haffey et
al.,
issued February 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,073,372, to Turner et al., issued
December 17. 1991; U:S. Patent No. x,073.371, to Turner et al. issued December
17,
1991: and Segarin, ei al.; at Chapter. VIII, pages 189 et seq.. of Cosmetics
Science
and Tec ~plocv,.
Nonlimiting examples of sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the
presem invention are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexy(
p-
methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N.N-dimethyl p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzoic
acid. ~-phenylbcnzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone,
homomenthyl saiicylate, octyi salicylate; 4.4'-methoxy-Z-
butyldibenzoylmethaile, 4-
isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methylbenrylidene)
camphor, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica: iron oxide, and mixtures
thereof. Still
other useful sunscreens are those disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370, to
Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; and U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, to Sabatelli
et al.,
issued March 12, 1991.
Especially preferred examples of these sunscreens include those
selected from the group consisting of 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexy))methylaminobenzoic
acid
ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic
acid
ester with .~-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N- (2-ethylhexyl}-
methylaminobenzoic
acid ester of 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl}-
methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy~ibenzoylrnethane, and
mixtures thereof. Exact amounts of sunscreens which can be employed will vary
depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor
(SPF) to
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37
be achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of a sunscreen
against erythema. S~ Federal Roister, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38?69,
August
?5, 1978.
Nonlimiting examples of preferred actives useful herein include those
selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide. cis-
retinoic
acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, phytic
acid, N-
acetyl L-cysteine, azelaic acid, lipoic acid, resorcinol. ibuprofen, naproxen.
hydrocortisone, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol. ?.4.4,'-
trichloro-?'-hydroxy Biphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 2-ethylhexyl
p-
methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, 2-phenylbenzimidozole-5-sulfonic acid.
dihydroxyacetone, and mixtures thereof.
Cationic Syirfactants
The products of the present invention can also optionally comprise one or
more cationic surfactants, provided these materials are selected so as not to
interfere
with the overall lathering characteristics of the required, lathering
surfactants.
Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful herein are disclosed in
McCutcheori s, tergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition ( 1986),
published by allured Publishing Corporation; and MeCutcheon's, Functional
~, North American Edition ( 1992):
Nonlimiting examples of cationic surfactants useful herein include cationic
alkyl ammonium salts such as those having the formula:
Rl R2 R3 Rd N+ X-
wherein R1, is selected from an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 18
carbon atoms, or aromatic, aryl o: alkaryl groups having from about 12 to
about 18
carbon atoms; R2, R3, and R4 are independently selected from hydrogen, an
alkyl
group having from about 1 to about 18 carbon atoms, or aromatic, aryl or
alkaryl
groups having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms; and X is an anion
selected
from chloride, bromide, iodide. acetate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, methyl
sulfate;
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38
ethyl sulfate, tosylate, lactate, citrate, glycolate, and mixtures thereof.
Additionally,
the alkyl groups can also contain ether linkages, or hydroxy or amino group
substituents (e.g., the alkyl groups can contain polyethylene glycol and
polypropylene glycol moieties).
More preferably, R1 is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 18
carbon atoms; R2 is selected from H or an alkyl group having from about 1 to
about
18 carbon atoms; R3 and R4 are independently selected from H or an alkyl group
having from about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as described in the
previous
paragraph.
Most preferably, R1 is an alkyl group having from about 12 to about 18
carbon atoms; R2, R3, and R4 are selected from H or an alkyl group having from
about 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; and X is as described previously.
Alternatively, other useful cationic surfactants include amino-amides,
wherein in the above structure R1 is alternatively RSCO-(CH2)n -, wherein RS
is an
alkyl group having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and n is an integer
from
about 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 2 to about 4, and most
preferably
from about 2 to about 3. Nonlimiting examples of these cationic emulsifiers
include
stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropyl
ethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate)
ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl cetearyl ammonium tosylate,
stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl
ammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof.
Nonlimiting examples of quaternary ammonium salt cationic surfactants
include those selected from the group consisting of cetyl ammonium chloride,
cetyl
ammonium bromide, lauryl ammonium chloride, lauryl ammonium bromide, stearyl
ammonium chloride, stearyl ammonium bromide, cetyl dimethyl ammonium
chloride, cetyl dimethyl ammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride,
lauryl dimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl
dimethyl ammonium bromide, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, cetyl trimethyl
ammonium bromide, lauryl trimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl trimethyl
ammonium bromide, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl
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39
ammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl dimethyl cetyl
ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl
ammonium bromide, dilauryl ammonium chloride, dilauryl ammonium bromide,
distea~ryl ammonium chloride, distearyl ammonium bromide, dicetyl methyl
ammonium chloride, dicetyl methyl ammonium bromide, dilauryl methyl
ammonium chloride, dilauryl methyl ammonium bromide, distearyl methyl
ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl methyl
ammonium bromide, and mixtures thereof. Additional quaternary ammonium salts
include those wherein the C 12 to C22 alkyl carbon chain is derived from a
tallow
fatty acid or from a coconut fatty acid. The term "tallow" refers to an alkyl
group
derived from tallow fatty acids (usually hydrogenated tallow fatty acids),
which
generally have mixtures of alkyl chains in the C 16 to C I 8 range. The term
"coconut" refers to a.n alkyl group derived from a coconut fatty acid, which
generally have mixtures of alkyl chains in the C 12 to C I 4 range. Examples
of
quaternary ammonium salts derived from these tallow and coconut sources
include
ditallow dimethyl ammonium chloride, ditallow dimethyl ammonium methyl
sulfate, di(hydrogenated tallow) dimethyl ammonium chloride, di(hydrogenated
tallow) dimethyI ammonium acetate, ditallow dipropyl ammonium phosphate,
ditallow dimethyl aunmonium nitrate, di(coconutalkyl)dimethyl ammonium
chloride, di(coconuta~lkyl)dimethyl ammonium bromide, tallow ammonium
chloride, coconut ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride
phosphate, stearamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearamidopropyl
dimethyl
(myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ceteauyl
ammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium chloride,
stearamidopropyI dimeahyl ammonium lactate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferred cationic surfactants useful herein include those selected from the
group consisting of dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl
ammonium chloride, f.imyristyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, dipalmityl dimethyl
ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.
Other Optional Ingredients
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The compositions of the present invention can comprise a wide range of
other optional components. _ These additional components should be
pharmaceutically acceptable. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handhool:. Second
Edition, 1992 describes a
wide variety of nonlimiting cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly
used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use in the compositions
of the
present invention. Nonlimiting examples of functional classes of ingredients
are
described at page 537 of ,this reference. Examples of these and other
functional
classes include: abrasives, absorbents, anticaking agents, antioxidants.
vitamins,
binders, biological additives, buffering agents, bulking agents, chelating
agents.
chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides,
denaturants.
drug astringents, external analgesics, film formers, fragrance components,
humectants, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, preservatives, propellants,
reducing
agents, skin bleaching agents, and sunscrcening agents.
Also useful herein are aesthetic components such as fragrances, pigments,
colorings, essential oils, skin sensates, astringents, skin soothing agents.
and skin
healing agents.
The disposable, single use personal care cleansing and conditioning products
of the present invention are manufactured by separately or simultaneously
adding
onto or impregnating into a water insoluble substrate a lathering surfactant
and a
conditioning emulsion, wherein said resulting product is substantially dry. By
"separately" is meant that the surfactants and conditioning agents can be
added
sequentially, in any order without first being combined together. By
"simultaneously" is meant that the surfactants and conditioning agents can be
added
at the same time, with or without first being combined together.
For example, the lathering surfactants can first be added onto or impregnated
into the water insoluble substrate followed by the conditioning emulsions, or
vice
versa. Alternatively, the lathering surfactants and conditioning emulsions can
be
added onto or impregnated into the water insoluble substrate at the same time.
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41
The surfactant, conditioning emulsions, and any optional ingredients can be
added onto or impregnated into, the water insoluble substrate by any means
known to
those skilled in the art: for example, by spraying, printing, splashing,
dipping,
soaking, or coating. The optional ingredients may be the same as those in the
internal or external pl:zases of the conditioning emulsion.
In preparing the articles according to the present invention, the conditioning
emulsion is initially formulated. Typically, this is achieved by blending or
melting
together the oil soluble, external phase components and the emulsifier. The
particular temperature: to which this oil soluble agent/emulsifier mixture is
heated
will depend on the melting point of the oil soluble external phase components.
Typically, this oil soluble agent/emulsifier is heated to a temperature in the
range
from about 60oC to about 90oC, preferably from about 70oC: to about 80oC,
prior to
being mixed, blended or otherwise combined with the water soluble internal
phase
components. However, heating is not always required to form the conditioning
emulsion. The melted oil soluble agent/emulsifier mixture is then blended with
the
water phase components and then mixed together to provide the emulsion.
When water or moisture is used or present in the manufacturing process, the
resulting treated substrate is then dried so that it is substantially free of
water. The
treated substrate can be dried by any means known to those skilled in the art.
Nonlimiting example: of known drying means include the use of convection
ovens,
radiant heat sources, microwave ovens, forced air ovens, and heated rollers or
cans.
Drying also includes air drying without the addition of heat energy, other
than that
present in the ambieno environment. Also, a combination of various drying
methods
can be used.
METHODS OF CLE~~NSING AND CONDITIONING THE KIN OR HAIR
The present invention also relates to a method of cleansing and conditioning
the skin or hair with a personal cleansing product of the present invention.
These
methods comprise the steps of wetting with water a substantially dry,
disposable,
single use personal cleansing product comprising a water insoluble substrate,
a
lathering surfactant, a.nd a conditioning component, and contacting the skin
or hair
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with said wetted product. In further embodiments, the present invention is
also
useful for delivering various active ingredients to the skin or hair.
The products of the present invention are substantially dry and are intended
to be wetted with water prior to use. The product is wetted by immersion in
water or
by placing it under a stream of water. Lather is generated from the product by
mechanically agitating and/or deforming the product either prior to or during
contact
of the product with the skin or hair. The resulting lather is useful for
cleansing and
conditioning the skin or hair. During the cleansing process and subsequent
rinsing
with water, the conditioning agents and active ingredients are deposited onto
the
skin or hair. Deposition of conditioning agents and active ingredients are
enhanced
by the physical contact of the substrate with the skin or hair.
DEPOSITION OF THE CONDITIONING COMPONENT NTO THE SKIN OR
HAIR
The compositions of the present invention are useful for depositing the
conditioning components of the present invention to the skin or hair. In
further
embodiments where an active ingredient is present, the compositions are also
useful
for depositing the active ingredient to the skin or hair.
The compositions of the present invention preferably deposit greater than
about 2.5 micrograms/cm2, more preferably greater than about 5 micrograms/cm2,
more preferably greater than about 10 micrograms/cm2, and most preferably
greater
than about 25 micrograms/cm2 of the conditioning component to the skin or hair
during use of the product.
The present invention also relates to a method of depositing greater than
about 2.5 micrograms/cm2, preferably greater than about 5 micrograms/cm2, more
preferably greater than bout 10 micrograms/cm2, and most preferably greater
than
about 25 micrograms/cm2 of the conditioning agent to the surface of the skin
or hair.
Quantitation of the conditioning component deposited on the skin or hair can
be measured using a variety of standard analytical techniques well known to
the
chemist of ordinary skill in the art. Such methods include for instance
extraction of
an area of the skin or hair with a suitable solvent followed by analysis by
chromatography (i.e. gas chromatography, liquid chromatography, supercritical
fluid
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43
chromatography, etc.), IR spectroscopy, UV/VIS spectroscopy, mass
spectrometry,
etc. Direct measurements can also be made on the skin or hair by techniques
such as
IR spectroscopy, L:~VNIS spectroscopy, opacity measurements, fluoresce
spectroscopy, ESCA spectroscopy, and the like.
In a typical method for measuring deposition, a product of the present
invention is wetted with water and squeezed and agitated to generate a lather.
The
product is then rubbed for approximately 15 seconds on a site, approximately
about
25 cm2 to about 300 c,m2, preferably about 50 cm2 to about 100 cm2, on the
skin or
head which has been demarcated using an appropriate indelible marker. The site
is
then rinsed for approximately 10 seconds and then allowed to air dry for
approximately 10 minutes. 'the site is then either extracted and the extracts
analyzed, or analyzed directly using any techniques such as those exemplified
above.
EXAMPLES
The following e~camples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within
the scope of the present invention. In the following examples, all ingredients
are
listed at an active level. The examples are given solely for the purpose of
illustration
and are not to be construed as limitations of the present invention, as many
variations thereof are possible without departing from the spirit and scope of
the
invention.
Ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name, and all weights are in
percent actives.
I. Surfactant Phase
In a suitable vessel, thc: following ingredients are mixed at room
temperature. Once
the polyquaternium is dispersed, the mixture is heated to 65°C.
I r ' is W~~ht Percent
Example Example Example Example x m 1
4 5_
Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100
QS 100
Polyquaternium-10 0.2:5 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
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While the above mixture is being heated to 6~oC the following ingredients are
added
to the mixture.
Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 -
Ammonium Laureth 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 -
Sulfate
Ammonium Lauryl 1.4 1.4 ~ 1.4 ~ 1.4 -
.
. Sulfate
Sodium 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 -
Lauroamphoacetate
Sodium Lauroyl - - - - 4.0
Sarcosinate
Disodium - - - - 4.0
Lauroamphodiacetate
8.
Sodium Trideceth
Sulfate
Once the above ingredients are thoroughly mixed begin cooling the mixtwe to
45C.
In a separate mixing vessel add the following:
Water 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Butylene Glycol 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Glydant Plus* 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 2.0
Once the Glydant Plus is dissolved add this mixture to the first mixing vessel
and
cool to morn temperature. Once cooled. apply I .5 g of this solution to a non-
woven
substrate and then dry.
PHASE 2: CONDITIONING EMULSION:
In a suitable vesscl, the following ingredients are mixed at room temperature
and
heated to 70oC during mixing.
* trademark
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4i
SEFA* Cottonate 4.6~ 4.00 4.6~ 34.40 4.6~
SEFA* Behenate 0.3s - 0.3~ 2.60 0.35
Petrolatum - 1.00 - -
Sorbitan Monooleate - - - 3.00 -
Polyglycerl-4 Isostearate x.00 5.00 5.00 - x.00
(and)
Cetvl Dimethicone
(and)
Hexyl Laurate 1
1 Available as Abil WE-09 from Glodschmidt
* SEFA is an acronym for sucrose esters of fatty acids
Once the mixture reaches 70oC, stop heating and slou,~ly add the following
ingredients while continuing to mix:
Glycerin 90.00 90.00 70.00 60.00 90.00
Panthenol -- -- ?0.00 - -
Cool to Room 'Temperature while mixing. Then add 0.17 g of this phase to
the substrate already containing the surfactants from the Surfactant Phasc.
The
resulting cleansing composition is used by wetting with water and is useful
for
cleansing the skin or hair and for depositing the conditioning emulsions onto
the
skin or hair.
In altcrnative manufacturing procedures, the lathering surfactants,
conditioning emulsions, and optional ingredients are separately or
simultaneously
added onto or imprcgnated into the water insoluble substrate by spraying,
printing,
splashing, dipping, or coating.
In altcrnative embodiments, other substrates such as woven substrates,
hydroentanglcd substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, or polymeric
netted
meshes are substitutcd for the prcscnt substrate.
* trademark
