Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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METHOD FOR TREATING CHAPPED LIPS
This application is a continuation-in-part of U.S. Patent Application Serial
No.
918,134. filed August 27, 199?, which is hereby incorporated by reference in
its entirety.
Technical Field
The invention is in the field of pigmented cosmetic stick compositions for
applying to
lips to treat chapped, chafed, or windburned lips.
Background of the Invention
Chapped. chafed, or windburned lips are a problem for many women, particularly
during the cold months of the year. Chapping is a result of a lack of moisture
in surface skin
which affects adhesion of surface cells to the skin surface. Thus, chapped
skin often appears
white and scaly due to detached surface cells.
Chapstick and other lip balms are well known treatments for such conditions.
However, lip balms are generally very waxy, unpigmented or minimally pigmented
sticks that
do not provide any color to the lips. Thus, women who suffer from chapped lips
who also
wish to wear traditional lipstick. often will apply chapstick either before or
after lipstick.
This two step process could obviously be made more convenient by formulating
lipsticks
which, in addition to providing color to the lips, also prevent, retard, or
arrest chapping.
Generally typical pigmented lipsticks, particularly the new transfer resistant
lipsticks, do not
provide much protection against chapping. With respect to transfer resistant
lipsticks, the
high concentration of volatiles quickly flashes off after application to the
lips, leaving a film
which is considered by some to be somewhat dry.
It is an object of the invention to provide a full color lipstick which
prevents, retards,
arrests, and ameliorates the effects of chapped lips.
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WO 99109936 PCTIUS98117663
It is a further object of the invention to provide a full color lipstick with
an
appreciable concentration of volatiles, that prevents, retards, arrests, and
ameliorates the
effects of chapped lips.
It is a further object of the invention to provide a full color lipstick
containing
sunscreen which prevents, retards, arrests, and ameliorates the effects of
chapped lips.
Summar~r of the Invention
The invention comprises a method for preventing, retarding, arresting, or
ameliorating
the effects of chapped lips comprising applying to the lips a pigmented
lipstick composition
comprising, by weight of the total cocnposition:
0.1-30% skin protectant selected from the group consisting of allantoin, cocoa
butter.
dimethicone, glycerin, petrolatum, shark liver oil, and mixtures thereof,
1-25% pigment.
5-85% of an oil selected from the group consisting of nonvolatile oil,
volatile oil, and
mixtures thereof, and
3-40% of a wax having a melting point of 30 to 135° C.
Detailed Description
The term "chap" or "chapping" with respect to lips means chafed, chapped.
cracked.
or windburned lips. The lipstick compositions used in the method of the
invention are "full
color lipsticks", which means that they are applied to the lips as a primary
lip colorant; as
opposed to a non-colored or very minimally colored sticks which do not provide
any
perceivable color.
The compositions used in the method of the invention comprise 0.1-30%,
preferably
0.2-25%, more preferably 0.5-20% of a skin protectant selected from the group
consisting of
allantoin: cocoa butter, dimethicone, glycerin, petrolatum, shark liver oil,
white petrolatum.
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WO 99109936 PCTIUS98117663
and mixtures thereof. Preferably the skin protectant used in the method of the
invention is
dimethicone .having a viscosity of 5 to 1,000.000 centipoise at 25° C.,
more preferably a
viscosity of 20 to 600,000 centipoise at 25° C.
The compositions used in the method of the invention contain i-25%, preferably
1.5-
20%, more preferably 2-15% by weight of the total composition of pigment.
Suitable
pigments include various organic and inorganic pigments. The organic pigments
are
generally various aromatic types including azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane,
anthraquinone,
and xanthine dyes which are designated as D&C and FD&C blues. browns, greens,
oranges,
reds, yellows, etc. Organic pigments generally consist of insoluble metallic
salts of certified
color additives. referred to as the Lakes. Inorganic pigments include iron
oxides,
ultramarines, chromium. chromium hydroxide colors, and mixtures thereof.
The compositions used in the method of the invention contain 5-85%, preferably
10-
80%, more preferably 20-75% by weight of the total composition of an oil
selected from the
group consisting of nonvolatile oil. volatile oil. and mixtures thereof.
With respect to the volatile oils. the term "volatile" means that the oil or
solvent has a
vapor pressure of at least '_' mm. of mercury at 20° C. The viscosity
of the volatile solvent is
preferably 0.5 to 5 centipoise at 25° C. Such volatile solvents include
volatile low viscosity
silicone fluids such as cyclic silicones having the formula:
CH;
Si0
l
CH; -n
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wherein n = 3-7. Volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes are also suitable and
generally have
from about 2 to 9 silicon atoms and are of the formula:
(CH3)Sl--O--[-Si-(CH3)2--O-]~ -Sl(CH3)3
wherein n = 0-7. These silicones are available from various sources including
Dow Corning
Corporation and General Electric. Dow Corning silicones are sold under the
tradenames Dow
Corning 244, 245, 344, 345, and 200 fluids. These fluids comprise
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane,
hexamethyldisiloxane, or
mixtures thereof.
Also suitable as the volatile solvent component are straight or branched chain
paraffinic hydrocarbons having 5-20 carbon atoms, more preferably 10-16 carbon
atoms.
Suitable hydrocarbons are pentane, hexane, heptane, decane, dodecane,
tetradecane,
tridecane, and C8_~o isoparaffins as disclosed in U.S. patent nos. 3,439,088
and 3,818,10,
both of which are hereby incorporated by reference. Preferred volatile
paraffinic
hydrocarbons have a molecular weight of 70 to 190, more preferably I60-180,
and a boiling
point range of 30 to 320° C., preferably 60 to 260° C., and a
viscosity of less than 20
centipoise at 25° C. Such paraffinic hydrocarbons are available from
EXXON under the
ISOPAR trademark as ISOPAR A, B, C, D, E, G. H, K. L, and M. Similar
paraffinic
hydrocarbons are also available from Shell Oil under the Shellsol trademark.
in particular
Shellsol 71; and from Phillips Petroleum under the tradename Soltrol 100, 130,
and 220. In
addition these paraffinic hydrocarbons may be purchased from Permethyl
Corporation under
the tradename Permethyl 99A or Permethyl R.
The volatile solvent may be a mixture of volatile silicone and paraffinic
hydrocarbons.
and if so, a ratio of 1:20 to 20:1 respectively is suggested.
4
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With respect to the nonvolatile oil, the term "nonvolatile" means that the oil
has a
vapor pressure of less than about 2 mrn. of mercury at 20° C. The
nonvolatile oil generally
has a viscosity of greater than 10 centipoise at 25° C., and may range
in viscosity up to
1,000,000 centipoise at 25° C., preferably 100 to 600,000 centipoise at
25° C. Preferably the
oil is a liquid to semi-solid at room temperature. Particularly preferred as
the nonvolatile oil
component is a C,z.z~ fatty ester of citric acid. Preferably the fatty ester
of citric acid is
formed by the reaction of a C,z_zz fatty alcohol with citric acid. One, two,
or three carboxylic
acid groups of the citric acid may be esterified. The fatty acid ester of
citric acid generally
exhibits the following generic formula:
CH,COOR,
OH - IC-COOR,
lCH,COOR3
wherein R,. R~, and R3 are each independently H, or a C,,_2,, preferably a
C,b.z~ alkyl, more
preferably a C,B.=~ alkyl. with the proviso that R,, R~, and R3 cannot all be
hydrogen at the
same time. Preferably, R,, R,. and R3 are each a C,6_zz alkyl, preferably
isostearyl and the
compound is triisostearyl citrate.
Other nonvolatile oils that may be used include esters of the formula RCO-OR'
wherein
R and R' are each independently a C,.zS. preferably a C4_zo s~~t or branched
chain alkyl, alkenyl
or alkoxycarbonylalkyl or alkylcarbonyloxyalkyl. Examples of such esters
include isotridecyl
isononanoate; PEG-a diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl
neopentanoate, cetyl
octanoate. cetyl palmitate. cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl
myristate, coco-
dicaprylate/caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl
neopentanoate, isohexyl
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neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyl
myristate,
octododecanol; and fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and
the like.
The oil may also comprise naturally occuring glyceryl esters of fatty acids,
or
triglycerides. Both vegetable and animal sources may be used. Examples of such
oils include
castor oil, lanolin oil, triisocetyl citrate, C,o-,a triglycerides,
caprylic/capric/triglycerides, coconut
oil, colas .oil, cottonseed oil. linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil,
illipe butter, rapeseed oil,
soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, walnut oil, and the like.
Also suitable as the oil are synthetic or semi-synthetic glyceryl esters, e.g.
fatty acid
mono-. di=, and triglycerides which are natural fats or oils that have been
modified, for example.
acetylated castor oil, glyceryl stearate. glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl
distearate, glyceryl trioctanoate,
glyceryl distearate, glyceryl linoleate, giyceryl myristate, glyceryl
isostearate, PEG castor oils,
PEG glyceryl oleates, PEG glyceryl stearates, PEG glyceryl tallowates, and so
on.
Also suitable as the oil are nonvolatile hydrocarbons such as isoparaffins,
hydrogenated
polyisobutene, mineral oil. squalene, petrolatum, and so on.
Straight or branched chain fatty alcohols having the formula R-OH, wherein R
is a straight
or branched chain saturated or unsaturated alkyl having 6-30 carbon atoms, are
also suitable oils.
Such fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol,
and the like.
Also suitable as the oil are various lanolin derivatives such as acetylated
lanolin,
acetylated lanolin alcohol, and so on.
Also suitable as the nonvolatile oil are various fluorinated oils such as
fluorinated
silicones, fluorinated esters, or perfluropolyethers. Particularly suitable
are fluorosilicones such as
trimethylsilyl endcapped fluorosilicone oil,
polytrifluoropropyhnethylsiloxanes, and similar
silicones such as those disclosed in U.S. patent no. 5,118.496 which is hereby
incorporated by
reference. Perfluoropolyethers .like those disclosed in U.S. patent nos.
5,183,589, 4,803,067.
6
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5,183,588 all of which are hereby incorporated by reference, which are
commercially available
from Montefluos under the trademark Fomblin, are also suitable shine
enhancers.
Guerbet esters are also suitable oils. The term "guerbet ester" means an ester
which is
formed by the reaction of a guerbet alcohol having the general formula:
R'--CH--CH,OH
Rz
with a carboxylic acid having the general formula:
R''COOH, or
HOOC-R3-COOH
wherein R' and R'- are each independently a C~.zo alkyl and R' is a
substituted or unsubstituted
fatty radical such as a C,_so straight or branched chain saturated or
unsaturated alkyl or alhylene, or
phenyl. wherein the substituents .are halogen. hydroxyl, carboxyl. and
allcylcarbonylhydroxy.
Particularly preferred is a carboxylic acid wherein the R group is such to
provide an ingredient
known as meadow~foam seed oil. Preferably, the guerbet ester is a fluoro-
guerbet ester which is
formed by the reaction of a guerbet alcohol and carboxylic acid (as defined
above), and a
fluoroalcohol having the following general formula:
CF3--(CF,)~ -CH,-CH,--OH
wherein n is from 3 to 40.
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WO 99/09936 PCT/US98/17663
Examples of suitable fluoro guerbet esters are set forth in U.S. patent no.
5,488,121which is
hereby incorporated by reference. Suitable fluoro-guerbet esters are also set
forth in U.S. patent no.
5.312.968 which is hereby incorporated by reference. Most preferred is a
guerbet ester having the
tentative CTFA name fluoro-octyldodecyl meadowfoamate. This ester is sold by
Siltech, Norcross
Georgia as Developmental Ester L61125A, under the tradename Silube GME-F.
Preferably, the compositions used in the method of the invention comprise:
5-30% of a volatile oil, preferably cyclomethicone,
25- --80% of a nonvolatile oil. preferably a C,~" fatty ester of citric acid.
The lipstick compositions used in the method of the invention may contain 3-
40%,
preferably ~-35%, more preferably 10-30% by weight of the total composition of
a wax
having a melting point of 30-135° C., and generally includes animal
waxes, plant waxes,
mineral waxes, silicone waxes. synthetic waxes. and petroleum waxes.
Examples of waxes that can be used include bayberry, beeswax, candelilla,
carnauba,
ceresin, cetyl esters, hydrogenated jojoba oil. hydrogenated jojoba wax,
hydrogenated
microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated rice bran wax, Japan wax. jojoba butter.
jojoba esters,
jojoba wax. lanolin wax. microcrystalline vvax, mink wax, montan acid wax,
montan wax.
ouricury wax. ozokerite, paraffin. PEG-6 beeswax. PEG-8 beeswax, rice bran
wax, shellac
wax, spent grain wax, sulfurized jojoba oil, synthetic beeswax, synthetic
candelilla wax,
synthetic carnauba wax, synthetic Japan wax, synthetic jojoba oil, synthetic
wax, stearoxy
dimethicone, dirnethicone behenate, stearyl dimethicone, and the like, as well
synthetic
homo- and copolymer waxes from the ethylene series.
The waxes may also be fluorinated waxes, either alone or in addition to the
above-
mentioned natural or synthetic waxes, such as fluorinated dimethicone
copolyols disclosed in U.S.
Patent No. 5,446,114, which is hereby incorporated by reference. having the
general formula:
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WO 99/09936 PCT/US98/17663
a o l e
R'-S i O t O ~ i
Si R
IMe IMe Me
p
wherein:
p is an integer ranging from 1 to 2,000;
Me is methyl;
R' is -{CH,r-O-(EO)a-(PO)b-{EO)~ H;
R is --(CH,)-(CF,)S--(CF3);
s is an integer ranging from 1 to 13:
a. b. and c are each independently integers ranging from 0 to 20;
EO is --(CH,CH,- O~-; and
PO is --(CH,CH(CH;~- O-.
An example of such a fluorinated wax is dimethiconol fluoroalcohol dilinoleic
acid, which
is sold by Siltech. Inc.. under the tradename Silwax F.
Preferred waxes are ethylene homopolymers or ethylene copolymers. The
molecular
weight of the ethylene homopolymer and/or copolymers used as the wax component
may
vary, so long as the melting point of the homo- or copolymer either alone or
in combination is
not greater than 135° C. Generally polyethylene waxes having a melting
point range of 30 to
135° C. will have a molecular weight ranging from about 100 and 2,004.
Preferably the
24 ethylene copolymers are comprised of ethylene monomer units in either
repetitive or randon
sequence. in combination with monomer units of the following formula:
CH,--CH-R,
wherein R, is a C,_3o straight or branched chain saturated or unsaturated
alkyl. aryl. or aralkyl,
preferably a C,_,o straight or branched chain alkyl. Examples of ethylene homo-
and
9
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copolymers which may be used in the invention are set forth in U.S. Patent No.
5,556,613,
which is hereby incorporated by reference.
Preferably the lipsticks used in the method of the invention contain 0.1-20%,
preferably 0.5-15%, more preferably 1-10% by weight of the total composition
of sunscreen.
The term "sunscreen" is defined as an ingredient that absorbs at least 85% of
the light in the
UV range at wavelengths from 290 to 320 nanometers, but transmits UV light at
wavelengths
longer than 320 nanometers. Examples of such ingredients include PABA,
cinoxide, DEA-
methoxycinnamate, digalloyl trioleate, Benzophenone-8, ethyl dihydroxypropyl
PABA,
Octocrylene. octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salicylate, glyceryl PABA,
homosalate, menthyl
anthranilate; benzophenone-3, padimate A, padimate O, phenylbenimidazole
sulfonic acid.
benzophenone-4, and mixtures of such compounds. Particularly preferred is
octyl
methoxycinnamate.
Particularly preferred lipsticks for use in the method of the invention
comprise, by
weight of the total composition:
5- .30% cyclomethicone,
0.5-20% dimethicone,
10-30% of a wax having a melting point of 35 to 120° C.
2-15% pigment. and
25-80% of a nonvolatile oil.
The lipsticks may be applied one. two. or more times a day as needed. in lieu
of
chapstick or lip balm if desired. Use of these lipsticks on a regular basis
will reduce,
ameliorate, and even prevent chapping of the lips. It is recommended that the
lipstick be used
for at least one to five days to ameliorate the effects of chapping.
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The invention will be further described in connection with the following
examples
which are set forth for the purpose of illustration only.
EXAMPLE 1
Lipstick compositions were made according to the following formula:
1 ~ _
3
Group I Ineredients
Synthetic wax 7.30 7.30 7.30
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 2.00 2.00 2.00
Triisostearyl citrate 40.44 40.44 40.55
Octyl methoxycinnamate 7.00 7.00 7.00
Isostearyl alcohol I.00 1.00 1.00
Vitamin E acetate 0.10 0.10 0.10
Aloe extract 0.10 0.10 0.10
Retinyl palmitate 0.10 O.IO 0.10
Ascorbyl palmitate 0.10 0.10 -----
Methyl paraben 0.30 0.30 0.30
Propyl paraben 0.10 0.10 0.10
Dimethicone 1.20 1.20 1.20
Quaternium-18 hectorite/triisostearyl1.75 1.75 1.75
citrate
(20:80)
Groin 2 Ingredients
Titanium dioxide/trioctyldodecyl 10.00 4.00 8.00
citrate
(50:50)
D&C Red 7 Ca Lake/trioctyldodecyl 1.20 3.30 0.80
citrate
(50:50)
FD&C Yellow 5 AI. Lake/trioctyldodecyl1.10 2.80 1.60
citrate
(50:50)
Iron oxide/trioctyldodecyl citrate 2.00 1.75 3.33
(60:40}
Iron oxide/trioctyldodecyl citrate 0.30 1.95 1.33
(60:40)
Group 3 Ingredients
Cyclomethicone 18.00 I 8.00 I 8.00
Trioctyldodecyl citrate 2.93 3.47 2.94
Mica 2.47 2.73 2.00
Collagen amino acids 0.01 0.01 -----
Menthol 0.50 0.50 0.50
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The Group 1 Ingredients were combined and heated to 90° C. with
mixing. The
Group 2 Ingredients were then added and mixed thoroughly until the batch was
uniform. The
Group 3 Ingredients were added. The composition was poured into molds and
allowed to
cool.
EXAMPLE 2
The lipstick compositions of Example 1 were consumer tested with 18 subjects
who
had normal to dry or dry lips at the beginning of the study . The 18 subjects
were instructed
not to wear any lip products for six days in order to promote dryness or
normalization of the
lips in order to simulate chapping. On day 7, the subjects chose a lipstick
from the three
available shades. Mauve, Wine. and Nudity. which were 1, 2, and 3
respectively, from
Example 1. Subjects were asked to apply the test lipstick a minimum of two
times per day
for the next five days. On day 12 subjects were asked to apply the lipstick
and rate wear at 2,
4, and 6 hours. After 6 hours of wear on day 12, subjects removed the lipstick
and were
asked to answer several questions. The following results were obtained:
INITIAL APPLICATION % Subiects Who Agreed
Lips feel conditioned 89
Soothes lips 100
Lips feel moisturized 94
2 HOUR WEAR % Subiects Who Asreed
Lips feel moisturized 83
Helps condition lips 83
Prevents dryness 94
Helps improve and maintain healthier lip
condition 94
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4 HOUR WEAR % Subiects Who Agreed
Lips feel moisturized
Helps condition lips g3
Soothes lips g3
Prevents dryness 94
Helps improve and maintain healthier lip
condition 94
6 HOUR WEAR % Subiects Who Aereed
Smoothes lips
Lips feel moisturized
Helps condition lips ~2
Soothes lips 6
Prevents dryness
Helps improve and maintain a healthier
lip
condition
After the 6 hour wear test was completed, the subjects were asked to remove
the
lipstick and answer the following questions:
Do vour lips feel % Subiects Who Agreed
Smooth 56
Moisturized 56
Conditioned 50
D~, 22
Chapped 11
Comfortable 6
Uncomfortable 11
Only 11 % of the subjects who started the testing with normalized lips
reported that
their lips felt chapped at the end of the study.
EXAMPLE 3
The lipstick compositions of Example 2 were tested with 19 subjects who were
selected based upon their perception that they had dry or chapped lips.
Subjects chose from
the three available lipstick shades, Mauve, Wine, and Nudity; which were 1, 2,
and 3
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WO 99!09936 PCT/US98/17663
respectively, from Example 1. Subjects were asked to apply the test lipstick a
minimum of
two times per day for five days. On day 12, subjects were asked to apply the
lipstick and rate
wear at 2, 4, and 6 hours. After 6 hours of wear on day 12, subjects were
asked to remove
their lipstick and answer several questions. The results are as follows:
INITIAL APPLICATION % Subiects Who Agreed
Lips feel conditioned 89
Soothes lips
Lips feel moisturized 95
2 HOUR WEAR % Subiects Who Aereed
Lips feel moisturized 100
Helps condition lips
Prevents dryness 95
Helps improve and maintain healthier lip
condition 95
4 HOUR WEAR % Subiects Who Aereed
Lips feel moisturized g9
Helps condition lips g9
Soothes lips g4
Prevents dryness 84
Helps improve and maintain healthier lip
condition g4
2~
6 HOUR WEAR % Subiects Who Agreed
Smoothes lips
Lips feel moisturized
Helps condition lips
Soothes lips
Prevents dryness g4
Helps improve and maintain a healthier
lip
condition g4
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After the 6 hour wear test was completed, the subjects were asked to remove
the
lipstick and answer the following questions:
Do your lies feel % Subiects Who A~eed
Smooth
Moisturized 63
Conditioned 63
Dry 11
Chapped
Comfortable 68
Uncomfortable
None of the subjects who participated in the study based upon their perception
that
they had dry lips, stated that their lips were chapped at the end of the
study.
EXAMPLE 4
A total of 18 subjects, after having refrained from using any lip products for
6 days.
participated in the study. Dry lips were simulated by blowing a stream of dry
air over the lips
for thirty seconds. Baseline readings for lip moisture were performed on dry
lips using a
Nova Dermal Phase Meter fitted with a lip probe. Baseline lower lip replicas
for lip
smoothing were prepared using SILFLO rubber impression material. Trained
evaluator
clinical evaluations for upper and lower lip dryness, roughness, flaking,
cracking, and fine
lines were recorded.
After baseline readings, subjects were instructed to apply a product of their
color
choice selected from 1, 2, and 3, in Example 1, in an amount sufficient to
cover the lips.
Subjects were asked to refrain from licking their lips prior to the 15 minute
reading. After 15
minutes, the lipstick was wiped from the lips and readings were performed.
Subjects were
then asked to continue using the product for 5 days and return to the
laboratory for final
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evaluation. The following results were obtained:
Improvement in Lip Smoothin~yAfter 5 Davs of Use
Mean Standard Deviation
67.71 6.88
The above results are signflcant at the 95% confidence level.
Improvement in Moisture
Immediate After 5 Davs
Mean St. Dev Mean St. Dev.
140.8 34.39 166.0 29.96
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The above results are significant at the 95% confidence level.
Clinical Evaluation of Lip Condition
Baseline After 5 davs
Mean St. Dev. can St. Dev.
1.00 O.I6 0.81 0.10 Dryness, upper lip
1.21 0.15 0.93 0.13 Dryness, lower lip B
1.07 0.07 0.53 0.13 Roughness, upper lip A
1.27 0.12 0.73 0.18 Roughness, lower lip A
1 p 0.20 0.11 0.20 0.11 Flaking, upper tip
0.40 0.16 0.27 0.12 Flaking, lower lip
0.53 0.17 0.20 0.11 Cracking, upper lip B
0.73 0.18 0.60 Ø16 Cracking, lower lip
1.00 0.00 1.00 0.00 Fine lines, upper lip
15 1.00 0.00 1.00 0.00 Fine lines, lower lip
Scoring: absent=0, mildlslight=1, moderate=2, severe=3.
A= significant improvement at 95% confidence level.
B=signif cant improvement at 90% confidence level.
The above results show that treatment of the lips with the lipstick
compositions
20 mentioned herein provide improvements in lip condition.
While the invention has been described in connection with the preferred
embodiment,
it is not intended to limit the scope of the invention to the particular form
set forth, but, on the
contrary, it is intended to cover such alternatives, modifications, and
equivalents as may be
included within the spirit and scope of the invention as defined by the
appended claims.
17
