Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
Technical Field
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular, the
present invention relates to cosmetic compositions that provide good skin
feel,
skin softness and/or skin smoothness benefits.
Background to the Invention
Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin
and
collagen fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. The
outermost
of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed
of
25nm protein bundles surrounded by 8nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and
organic solvents typically penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by
delipidization (i.e. removal of the lipids from the stratum corneum), destroy
its
integrity. This destruction of the skin surface topography leads to a rough
feel
and may eventually permit the surfactant or solvent to interact with the
keratin,
creating irritation.
It is now recognised that maintaining the proper water gradient across the
stratum corneum is important to its functionality. Most of this water, which
is
sometimes considered to be the stratum corneum's plasticizer, comes from
inside the body. If the humidity is too low, such as in a cold climate,
insufficient
water remains in the outer layers of the stratum corneum to properly
plasticize
the tissue, and the skin begins to scale and becomes itchy. Skin permeability
is
also decreased somewhat when there is inadequate water across the stratum
corneum. On the other hand, too much water on the outside of the skin causes
the stratum corneum to ultimately sorb three to five times its own weight of
bound water. This swells and puckers the skin and results in approximately a
two to three fold increase in the permeability of the skin to water and other
polar
molecules.
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Thus, a need exists for compositions which will assist the stratum corneum in
maintaining its barrier and water-retention functions at optimum performance
in
spite of deleterious interactions which the skin may encounter in washing,
work,
and recreation.
In the past compositions have been formulated that are claimed to assist the
stratum corneum in maintaining its barrier and water-retention functions. Such
compositions have attempted to maintain these functions by the use of one or
more 'skin benefit agents'. For example, one way of delivering desirable
benefits to the skin is to incorporate emollient materials into the skin care
compositions. These emollient materials retard the loss of moisture from the
skin and also serve a protective function. However, they can also suffer
serious
negatives in terms of skin feel (i.e. they often feel very greasy on the skin)
as
well as having poor rub-in, absorption and residue characteristics. An example
of an emollient material is polyol polyester oils. These are known for use in
cosmetic compositions. See, for example, US-A-6,013,271 which discloses a
skin care composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising an
oil
phase which includes liquid polyol carboxylic acid ester, water; and an
organic
liquid crystal-forming amphiphilic emulsifier material. Also, US-A-5,916,575
which discloses a non-emulsified personal cleansing composition comprising a
lathering surfactant, water and an insoluble skin conditioning component which
can be a solid polyol carboxylic acid ester and an insoluble skin conditioning
oil.
There appears to be a direct relationship between the amount of the skin
benefit
agent and the effectiveness of the composition at delivering benefits to the
skin.
However, it is also the case that the higher the level of skin benefit agent
the
higher the risk of the associated negatives. Therefore, to date, it has been
necessary to balance the benefits of compositions comprising high levels of
the
skin benefit agents against the negatives associated with such high levels.
Thus, there remains a need for compositions which contain high levels of skin
benefit agents, and therefore provide high levels of the associated benefits
such
as skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness, but show low levels of the
associated negatives such as greasiness, stickiness or tackiness.
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Quaternary ammonium agents are also known for use in cosmetic compositions.
See, for example, WO-A-99/27904, WO-A-96/32089, and EP-A-789,076. Also,
US-A-5,804,205 which discloses skin care compositions which are claimed to
provide a high degree of moisturisation without leaving a "tacky" or "sticky"
residue. The compositions contain quaternary ammonium compounds having
two alkyl groups of 16-22 carbon atoms, humectant and non-irritating
hydrophobic microspheres having an average particle size of less than 50 Nm.
It
is claimed that the hydrophobic polymeric microspheres significantly reduce
the
"tackiness" associated with high humectant levels. The compositions of US-A-
5,804,205 may also contain low levels of emollients such as petrolatum or
mineral oil.
It has now been unexpectedly found that compositions comprising at least one
quaternary ammonium agent, emollient and a polar solvent, wherein the
compositions comprise vesicles comprising quaternary ammonium agent and
emollient, provide high levels of the associated benefits such as skin feel,
skin
softness and skin smoothness, but show low levels of the associated negatives
such as greasiness, stickiness or tackiness.
While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the quaternary
ammonium agents of the present invention form vesicles that incorporate the
emollient materials. The polar solvent is necessary to drive the formation of
these vesicles. In addition to the emollient contained in the vesicles it is
believed that the remaining emollient is emulsified by the quaternary ammonium
agent. It is believed that the vesicles ensure a smooth, uniform application
of
the emollient to the skin with minimal tack/stickiness/greasiness. Even when
the
compositions comprise extremely high percentages of emollient, for example
20% by weight, there are only low levels of the usual negatives. Also, it is
believed that the quaternary ammonium agents help reduce the loss of emollient
from the skin due to environmental factors such as water or abrasion and hence
extend the length of the emollient derived benefits. Moreover, it is believed
that
the quaternary ammonium agents themselves deliver skin care benefits, such as
good moisturisation, good skin feel, good skin softness.
Summary of the Invention
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According to the present invention there is provided a cosmetic composition
comprising:
(a) at least one quaternary ammonium agent;
(b) emollient; and
(c) polar solvent;
wherein the composition comprises vesicles comprising quaternary ammonium
agent and emollient.
The compositions of the present invention give good skin care benefits, such
as
good moisturisation, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness and/or
good skin smoothness, with low levels of negatives such as greasiness,
stickiness or tack.
Detailed Description of the Invention
The compositions of the present invention at least one quaternary ammonium
agent, emollient and polar solvent, wherein the composition comprises
vesicles,
said vesicles comprising quaternary ammonium agent and emollient. These
elements will be described in more detail below.
The present compositions can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular,
the present compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin. In
particular, the skin care compositions can be in the form of creams, lotions,
gels,
and the like. Preferably the cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of
an
oil-in-water emulsion of one or more oil phases in an aqueous continuous
phase, each oil phase comprising a single oily component or a mixture of oily
components in miscible or homogeneous form but said different oil phases
containing different materials or combinations of materials from each other.
Preferably the compositions of the present invention comprise less than 10%,
preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably
0%, by weight, of anionic surfactant.
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The compositions of the present invention are preferably formulated so as to
have a product viscosity of at least about 1,000 mPa.s and preferably in the
range from about 1,000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about
2,500 to about 250,000 mPa.s and especially from about 5,000 to about
200,000 mPa.s (26.8°C, neat, Brookfield DV-I I+ Spindle CP52/CP41 ).
Quaternary Ammonium Agent
The compositions of the present invention must comprise at least one
quaternary ammonium agent. Any quaternary ammonium agent suitable for use
in cosmetic compositions may be used herein. As used herein the term
"quaternary ammonium agent' means a compound or mixture of compounds
having a quaternary nitrogen atom substituted with one or more, preferably
two,
moieties containing six or more carbon atoms. Preferably the quaternary
ammonium agents for use herein are selected from those having a quaternary
nitrogen substituted with two moieties wherein each moiety comprises ten or
more, preferably 12 or more, carbon atoms.
Preferably the present compositions comprise at least 0.01 %, more preferably
at
least 0.1 %, even more preferably at least 1.5%, still more preferably at
least 3%,
by weight, of quaternary ammonium agent.
Preferably the quaternary ammonium agents for use herein are selected from:
(a) quaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula (I):
R2
+ _
R~ N Rs X
Ra
(I)
wherein, R~ & R2 are each C~-C4 alkyl or C~-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups or
hydrogen.
R3 & R4 are each alkyl or alkenyl groups having from about 8 to about 22
carbon
WO 01/00147 CA 02376888 2001-12-20 PCT/US00/17634
atoms. X- is a salt forming anion, compatible with quaternary ammonium
compounds and other adjunct ingredients.
Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of this type are quaternised
amines having the general formula (I) where R~ & R2 are methyl or hydroxyethyl
and R3 & R4 are linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chains comprising at least
11
atoms, preferably at least 15 carbon atoms.
(b) quaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula (II) or (III):
~RS)4-m N+~ ~CH2)n Q R6 ) m l X_
J (II)
~R5)4-m N+~~CH2)n CH CH2 Q RgJ m
Q R6 (III)
wherein, each R5 unit is independently selected from hydrogen, branched or
straight chain C~-C6 alkyl, branched or straight chain C~-C6 hydroxyalkyl and
mixtures thereof, preferably methyl and hydroxyethyl; each R6 unit is
independently linear or branched C~~-C22 alkyl, linear or branched C»-C2z
alkenyl, and mixtures thereof; X- is an anion which is compatible with skin
care
actives and adjunct ingredients; m is from 1 to 4, preferably 2; n is from 1
to 4,
preferably 2 and Q is a carbonyl unit selected from:
0
-o c
0
-C O
O
o c o
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N C
c N , and
HC O C
wherein R~ is hydrogen, C~-C4 alkyl, C,-C4 hydroxyalkyl, and mixtures thereof.
In the above quaternary ammonium compound example, the unit -QR6 contains
a fatty acyl unit which is typically derived from a triglyceride source. The
triglyceride source is preferably derived from tallow, partially hydrogenated
tallow, lard, partially hydrogenated lard, vegetable oils and/or partially
hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as, canola oil, safflower oil, peanut oil,
rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, tall oil, rice bran oil,
etc. and
mixtures of these oils.
The counterion, X- in the above compounds, can be any compatible anion,
preferably the anion of a strong acid, for example, chloride, bromide,
methylsulfate, ethylsulfate, sulfate, nitrate and the like, more preferably
chloride
or methyl sulfate. The anion can also, but less preferably, carry a double
charge
in which case X- represents half a group.
The preferred quaternary ammonium compounds of the present invention are
the diester and/or diamide Quaternary Ammonium (DEQA) compounds, the
diesters and diamides having general formula (II), wherein the carbonyl group
Q
is selected from:
0
o C
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O
c o , and
R~ O
N C
Tallow, canola and palm oil are convenient and inexpensive sources of fatty
acyl
units which are suitable for use in the present invention as R6 units.
The counterion, X-, can be chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate, sulfate,
nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion, X, is merely present as a
counterion of the positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The
scope of this invention is not considered limited to any particular anion.
As used herein, when the diester is specified, it will include the monoester
and
triester that are normally present as a result of the manufacture process.
(c) quaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula (IV) or (V):
N
R
9
N
R~o NH C R9
o (IV)
N
R9
N
R~o O C R9
o (V)
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wherein R9 is an acyclic aliphatic C15-C21 hydrocarbon group and R1o is a C1-
Cg
alkyl or alkylene group.
These ammonium compounds, having a pKa value of not greater than about 4,
are able to generate a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an aqueous
solution, providing that the pH of the final composition is not greater than
about
6.
(d) quaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula (VI) or (VII):
N
R
9
/ N X_
R11
R1o NH ~ ~ Rs
O
(VI)
N
R
9
/ N X
R11
R1o O C R9
O
(VII)
wherein R9 & R1o are as specified hereinabove and R11 is selected from C1-C4
alkyl and hydroxyalkyl groups.
The counterion, X-, can be chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate, sulfate,
nitrate, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion, X, is merely present as a
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WO 01/00147 cA o23~saaa 2ooi-i2-2o PCT/US00/17634
counterion of the positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The
scope of this invention is not considered limited to any particular anion.
(e) quaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula (VIII) or (IX):
0
1 12
Rg O n(H2C) N (CH2)n H Rg
o (VIII)
0
R12
R O n H C ~ ~ CH N R9
9 ( 2 ) ~ ( 2)n H
R12
o (IX)
wherein, n is from 1 to 6, R9 is selected from acyclic aliphatic C15-C21
hydrocarbon groups and R12 is selected from C1-C4 alkyl and hydroxyalkyl
groups.
These ammonium compounds (VIII), having a pKa value of not greater than
about 4, are able to generate a cationic charge in situ when dispersed in an
aqueous solution, providing that the pH of the final composition is not
greater
than about 6.
The counterion, X- (IX), can be chloride, bromide, methylsulfate, formate,
sulfate,
nitarte, and mixtures thereof. In fact, the anion, X, is merely present as a
counterion of the positively charged quaternary ammonium compounds. The
scope of this invention is not considered limited to any particular anion.
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WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
(f) diquaternary ammonium compounds according to general formula (X), (XI),
(X11) or (X111):
R5
0 _
2 [R6-Q (CHz)n~-N (CH2)n-Q-(CH2)n-Q-ON-~(CH2)n-Q-R~ 2 2X
R5
(X)
~R5 R
R~s ~ / N 2X
Rs Rs
(XI )
Isl2
Rs-Q-(CHZ)n- ~ -(CHZ)n O (CHZ)n-O-R6 2X
Rs , 2
(XI I )
OH
( ~ Hz)z ~ s
R6-Q-(CHz)n-NO (CHZ)n-O-(CHZ)n-O-N~ (CH2)n-O-R6 2X
~+
Rs (CHZ)z
OH
XIII)
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wherein R5, R6, Q, n & X- are as defined hereinabove in relation to general
formula (II) and (III), R13 is selected from C,-C6 alkylene groups, preferably
an
ethylene group and z is from 0 to 4.
(g) mixtures of the above quaternary ammonium compounds.
The preferred quaternary ammonium agents for use in the present invention are
those described in section (b) hereinabove. In particular, diester and/or
diamide
quaternary ammonium (DEQA) compounds according to general formula (II)
hereinabove are preferred. Preferred diesters for use herein are those
according to general formula (II) wherein R5, R6, and X- are as defined
hereinabove and Q is:
0
O C
Preferred diamides for use herein are those according to general formula (II)
wherein R5, R6, and X- are as defined hereinabove and Q is:
H O
N C
Preferred examples of quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use in the
compositions of the present invention are N,N-di(canolyl-oxy-ethyl)-N,N-
dimethyl
ammonium chloride, N,N- di(canolyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl,N-(2-hydroxyethyl)
ammonium methyl sulfate, N,N-di(canolyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl, N-(2-
hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred
for use herein is N,N-di(canolyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-methyl,N-(2-hydroxyethyl)
ammonium methyl sulfate.
Although quaternary ammonium compounds are derived from "canolyl" fatty acyl
groups are preferred, other suitable examples of quaternary ammonium
compounds are derived from fatty acyl groups wherein the term "canolyl" in the
above examples is replaced by the terms "tallowyl, cocoyl, palmyl, lauryl,
oleyl,
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WO 01/00147 cA o237saaa 2ooi-i2-2o PCT/US00/17634
ricinoleyl, stearyl, palmityl" which correspond to the triglyceride source
from
which the fatty acyl units are derived. These alternative fatty acyl sources
can
comprise either fully saturated, or preferably at least partly unsaturated
chains.
Emollients
A second essential element of the compositions of the present invention is
that
they comprise emollient. Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the
smoothness and suppleness of the skin, prevent or relieve dryness of the skin,
and/or protect the skin. A wide variety of suitable emollients are known and
may
be used herein. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.
1, pp. 32-43 (1972) contains numerous examples of materials suitable for use
as
emollients. Preferably the compositions of the present invention comprise
greater than 1 %, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least
10%, still more preferably at least 20%, by weight, of emollient.
Preferably the emollients for use herein are selected from:
i) Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40
carbon atoms, such as dodecane, squalane, petrolatum, cholesterol and
derivatives thereof, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane and the
C~-C4o isoparaffins, which are C~-C4o branched hydrocarbons.
ii) C~-C3o alcohol esters of C~-C3o carboxylic acids and of C2-C3o
dicarboxylic
acids, e.g. isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate,
isopropyl stearate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate,
and diisopropyl dilinoleate.
iii) mono-, di- and tri- glycerides of C~-C3o carboxylic acids and ethoxylated
derivatives thereof. Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides
include PEG-20 almond glycerides, PEG-60 almond glycerides, PEG-11
avocado glycerides, PEG-6 capric/caprylic glycerides, PEG-8 capric/caprylic
glycerides, PEG-20 corn glycerides, PEG-60 corn glycerides, PEG-60
evening primose glycerides, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-30 glyceryl
cocoate, PEG-40 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-78 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-80
glyceryl cocoate, PEG-12 glyceryl dioleate, PEG-15 glyceryl isostearate,
PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-75 cocoa
butter glycerides, PEG-20 hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, PEG-70 mango
glycerides, PEG-13 mink glycerides, PEG-75 shores butter glycerides, PEG-
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olive glycerides, PEG-12 palm kernal glycerides, PEG-45 palm kernal
glycerides, PEG-8 glyceryl laurate and PEG-30 glyceryl laurate. Mixtures of
polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides can also be used herein.
iv) alkylene glycol esters of C~-C3o carboxylic acids, e.g. ethylene glycol
mono-
and di- esters, and propylene glycol mono- and di- esters of C~-C3o
carboxylic acids e.g., ethylene glycol distearate.
v) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil may be volatile, non-
volatile, or a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The term "non-
volatile" as used in this context refers to those silicones that are liquid
under
ambient conditions and have a flash point (under one atmospheric of
pressure) of or greater than about 100°C. The term "volatile" as used
in this
context refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be
selected from a wide variety of silicones spanning a broad range of
volatilities and viscosities. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred.
Suitable silicones are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,069,897, issued
December 3, 1991. Preferred for use herein are organopolysiloxanes
selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl substituted dimethicones,
dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, and mixtures thereof. More preferred
for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Preferred
among the polyalkylsiloxanes are dimethicones.
vi) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils
and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut
oil,
cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean
oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, sunflower
seed oil, partially and fully hydrogenated oils from the foregoing sources,
and mixtures thereof.
vii) animal fats and oils, e.g. cod liver oil, lanolin and derivatives thereof
such as
acetylated lanolin and isopropyl lanolate. Lanolin oil is preferred.
viii) Also useful are C4-C2o alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, C~-C2o
carboxylic acid esters of polypropylene glycols, and di- C$-C3o alkyl ethers,
examples of which include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl
ether, dodecyl octyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
ix) polyol carboxylic acid esters.
x) mixtures of the above.
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Preferred emollients for use in the compositions herein are selected from
dodecane, squalane, cholesterol and derivatives thereof, isohexadecane,
isononyl isononanoate, petrolatum, lanolin and derivatives thereof, safflower
oil,
castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut
oil,
soybean oil, polyol carboxylic acid esters and mixtures thereof. More
preferred
emollients for use herein are selected from polyol carboxylic acid esters,
petrolatum and mixtures thereof.
These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more
carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acid and sugar, these
esters can be in either liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of
liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean
oil
fatty acids (unsaturated), the mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty
acids, the galactose tetraesters of oleic acid, the arabinose tetraesters of
linoleic
acid, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate, sorbitol tetraoleate, the
sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty acids, xylitol
pentaoleate,
sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose
hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid
esters
include: sorbitol hexaester in which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are
palmitoleate and arachidate in a 1:2 molar ratio; the octaester of raffinose
in
which the carboxylic acid ester moieties are linoleate and behenate in a 1:3
molar ratio; the heptaester of maltose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid
moieties are sunflower seed oil fatty acids and lignocerate in a 3:4 molar
ratio;
the octaester of sucrose wherein the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are
oleate and behenate in a 2:6 molar ratio; and the octaester of sucrose wherein
the esterifying carboxylic acid moieties are laurate, linoleate and behenate
in a
1:3:4 molar ratio. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester in which
the
degree of esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C18
mono- and/or di-unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:
behenic of 1:7 to 3:5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is the
octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic fatty acid moieties
and
about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule. Other materials include cottonseed
oil
or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose. The ester materials are further
described in, U. S. Patent No. 2,831,854, U. S. Patent No. 4,005,196, to
Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977; U. S. Patent No. 4,005,195, to Jandacek,
CA 02376888 2001-12-20
WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
issued January 25, 1977, U. S. Patent No. 5,306,516, to Letton et al., issued
April 26, 1994; U. S. Patent No. 5,306,515, to Letton et al., issued April 26,
1994; U. S. Patent No. 5,305,514, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994; U.
S.
Patent No. 4,797,300, to Jandacek et al., issued January 10, 1989; U. S.
Patent
No. 3,963,699, to Rizzi et al, issued June 15, 1976; U. S. Patent No.
4,518,772,
to Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985; and U. S. Patent No. 4,517,360, to
Volpenhein, issued May 21, 1985.
The polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein can be prepared by a
variety of methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods
include: transesterification of the polyol with methyl, ethyl or glycerol
fatty acid
esters using a variety of catalysts; acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid
chloride; acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid anhydride; and acylation
of the
polyol with a fatty acid, per se. See, for example, U.S. Patent No. 2,831,854;
U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977.
An especially preferred material is known by the INCI name sucrose
polycottonseedate.
Polar Solvent
The compositions of the present invention must also comprise polar solvent.
Any polar solvent suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used
herein.
However, the polar solvent must be sufficiently polar to drive the formation
of
vesicles in the present invention. Preferably the polar solvent used in the
compositions of the present invention is water.
Preferably comprise the present compositions will comprise from 10% to 90%,
more preferably from 20% to 80%, even more preferably from 30% to 60%, by
weight, of polar solvent.
Vesicles
The compositions of the present invention must comprise vesicles, said
vesicles
comprising quaternary ammonium agent and emollient. As used herein the term
"vesicle" means one or more bilayers arranged in a closed, usually spherical
geometry, said bilayer comprises quaternary ammonium agent as described
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hereinabove. In the compositions herein, the vesicles are preferably
substantially spherical. The presence of vesicles in the present compositions
can be detected by microscopic analysis (polarised light microscopy at a
magnification of x60 using a Nikon Eclipse E800 microscope).
Preferably the vesicles herein have a number average size of from 0.01 Nm to
30pm, more preferably from 0.02 pm to 15pm.
Optional Ingredients
The compositions herein can contain a variety of optional components suitable
for rendering the present compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically
acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such
conventional
optional ingredients are well-known to those skilled in the art. These include
any
cosmetically acceptable ingredients such as those found in the CTFA
International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th edition, edited
by VVenninger and McEv~en, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
Association, Inc., Washington, D. C., 1997). Some non-limiting examples of
these optional ingredients are given below.
Humectant
A highly preferred optional ingredient for the compositions of the present
invention is humectant. As used herein the term "humectant" means a
substance which provides the skin with water-retention benefits. Preferably,
the
compositions of the present invention comprise at least 1 %, more preferably
at
least 5%, even more preferably at least 10%, even more still preferably at
least
20%, by weight of humectant.
Any humectant suitable for use in cosmetic compositions may be used herein.
Non-limiting examples of suitable humectants for use in the present invention
are described in W098/22085, W098/18444 and W097/01326. Preferably the
humectants for use herein are selected from, but not limited to; amino acids
and
derivatives thereof such as proline and arginine aspartate, 1,3-butylene
glycol,
propylene glycol and water and codium tomentosum extract, collagen amino
acids or peptides, creatinine, diglycerol, biosaccharide gum-1, glucamine
salts,
glucuronic acid salts, glutamic acid salts, polyethylene glycol ethers of
glycerine
17
WO 01/00147 cA o23~saaa 2ooi-i2-2o pCT~S00/17634
(e.g. glycereth 20), glycerine, glycerol monopropoxylate, glycogen, hexylene
glycol, honey, and extracts or derivatives thereof, hydrogenated starch
hydrolysates, hydrolyzed mucopolysaccharides, inositol, keratin amino acids,
urea, LAREX A-200 (available from Larex), glycosaminoglycans, methoxy PEG
10, methyl gluceth-10 and -20 (both commercially available from Amerchol
located in Edison, NJ), methyl glucose, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, N-acetyl
glucosamine salts, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof (such as PEG 15
butanediol, PEG 4, PEG 5 pentaerythitol, PEG 6, PEG 8, PEG 9), pentaerythitol,
1,2 pentanediol, PPG-1 glyceryl ether, PPG-9, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid
and its salts such as glyceryl pca, saccharide isomerate, SEACARE (available
from Secma), sericin, silk amino acids, sodium acetylhyaluronate, sodium
hyaluronate, sodium poly-aspartate, sodium polyglutamate, sorbeth 20, sorbeth
6, sugar and sugar alcohols and derivatives thereof such as glucose, mannose
and polyglycerol sorbitol, trehalose, triglycerol, trimethyolpropane, tris
(hydroxymethyl) amino methane salts, and yeast extract, and mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from glycerine,
urea, butylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, or
mixtures
thereof. Even more preferably, the humectants for use herein are selected from
glycerine, urea and mixtures thereof, especially glycerine.
Other Skin Benefit Agents
Other skin benefit agents may be useful in the compositions of the present
invention. Examples of other skin benefit agents that may be used in the
present compositions include:
(a) Vitamin Compounds
The present compositions may comprise vitamin compounds, precursors, and
derivatives thereof. These vitamin compounds may be in either natural or
synthetic form. Suitable vitamin compounds include, Vitamin A (e.g., beta
carotene, retinoic acid, retinol, retinoids, retinyl palmitate, retinyl
proprionate,
etc.), Vitamin B (e.g., niacin, niacinamide, riboflavin, pantothenic acid,
etc.),
Vitamin C (e.g., ascorbic acid, etc.), Vitamin D (e.g., ergosterol,
ergocalciferol,
cholecalciferol, etc.), Vitamin E (e.g., tocopherol acetate, etc.), and
Vitamin K
(e.g., phytonadione, menadione, phthiocol, etc.) compounds. Preferred vitamin
18
WO 01/00147 cA o23~saaa 2ooi-i2-2o PCT/US00/17634
compounds for use in the compositions of the present invention are vitamin B3
compounds. Vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulating skin
condition as described WO-A-97/39733. When present, the compositions of the
present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01 % to about 50%, more
preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, even more preferably from about
0.5% to about 5%, by weight, of the vitamin B3 compound.
As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula:
~R
wherein R is -CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or -
CH20H
(i.e., nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the
foregoing.
Exemplary derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic
acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl
amino
acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide
and
niacinamide N-oxide.
Examples of suitable vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are
commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the Sigma Chemical
Company (St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich
Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).
The vitamin compounds may be included as the substantially pure material, or
as an extract obtained by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from
natural
(e.g., plant) sources.
(b) Anti-Vhrinkle and Anti-Skin Atrophy Actives
Examples of anti-wrinkle and anti-skin atrophy actives that may be used in the
compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, lactic
acid
and derivatives thereof, retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., cis and
trans);
retinol; retinyl esters; niacinamide, salicylic acid and derivatives thereof;
sulfur-
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WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
containing D and L amino acids and their derivatives and salts, particularly
the
N-acetyl derivatives, a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine;
thiols,
e.g., ethane thiol; hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic
acid,
and skin peel agents (e.g., phenol and the like).
(c) Antimicrobial and Antifungal Actives
Examples of antimicrobial and antifungal actives that may be used in the
compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, f3-
lactam
drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline,
erythromycin,
amikacin, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-
trichlorocarbanilide,
phenoxyethanol, phenoxy propanol, phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline,
capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin,
ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin,
kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenamine, minocycline, neomycin,
netilmicin, paromomycin, streptomycin, tobramycin, miconazole, tetracycline
hydrochloride, erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estolate,
erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, doxycycline hydrochloride,
capreomycin
sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride,
chlortetracycline
hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride,
ethambutol hydrochloride, metronidazole hydrochloride, pentamidine
hydrochloride, gentamicin sulfate, kanamycin sulfate, lineomycin
hydrochloride,
methacycline hydrochloride, methenamine hippurate, methenamine mandelate,
minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulfate, netilmicin sulfate, paromomycin
sulfate, streptomycin sulfate, tobramycin sulfate, miconazole hydrochloride,
amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulfate, octopirox, parachlorometa
xylenol, nystatin, tolnaftate, zinc pyrithione and clotrimazole.
(d) Sunscreen Actives
The compositions herein may also comprise sunscreening actives. A wide
variety of sunscreen agents are useful herein. These sunscreen agents include
both organic compounds and their salts as well as inorganic particulate
materials. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that sunscreen
agents
provide protection from ultraviolet radiation by one or more of the following
mechanisms including absorption, scattering, and reflection of the ultraviolet
radiation. Nonlimiting examples of these sunscreen agents are described in
WO 01/00147 CA 02376888 2001-12-20 PCT/US00/17634
U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued February 11, 1992; U.S.
Patent No. 5,073,372, to Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent
No. 5,073,371, to Turner et al. issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent No.
5,160,731, to Sabatelli et al., issued November 3, 1992; U.S. Patent No.
5,138,089, to Sabatelli, issued August 11, 1992; U.S. Patent No. 5,041,282, to
Sabatelli, issued August 20, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, to Sabatelli et
al.,
issued March 12, 1991; U.S. Patent No. 4,937,370, to Sabatelli, issued June
26,
1990; and Segarin, et al., at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics
_Science and Technoloay. Preferred among the sunscreen agents are those
selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl
salicylate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethylaminobenzoate,
p-aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, homomenthyl
salicylate, _DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'methoxy-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-
isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene
camphor, 4-N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-
dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-
hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, 4-N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid
ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoyl- methane, 4-N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid ester
with 4-(2-hydroxyeth-oxy)dibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N-di(2-ethylhexyl)-
aminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N,N-di(2-
ethylhexyl)aminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4-(2-
hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, 4-N,N-di(2-ethylhexyl)aminobenzoic acid ester
with 4-hy-droxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N-di(2-ethylhexyl)aminobenzoic acid
ester with 4-(2-hydroxyeth-oxy)dibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N-(2-
ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-
N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 2-hydroxy-4-(2-
hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid
ester with 4-hy-droxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N-(2-
ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-(2-hydroxyeth-
oxy)dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and mixtures
thereof.
More preferred for use in the compositions described herein are the sunscreen
agents selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-
aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, octyl salicylate,
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CA 02376888 2001-12-20
WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
homomenthyl salicylate, p-aminobenzoic acid, oxybenzone, 2-
phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, DEA p-methoxycinnamate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-
butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)
camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid
ester with 4-(2-hydroxyeth-oxy)dibenzoylmethane, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide,
iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.
Exact amounts of sunscreens which can be employed will vary depending upon
the sunscreen chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF) to be
achieved. SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of a sunscreen
against erythema. See Federal Register, Vol. 43, No. 166, pp. 38206-38269,
August 25, 1978.
Thickeners
The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise thickeners. Any
thickener suitable for use in cosmetic compositions can be used herein.
Preferred thickeners are selected from nonionic water-soluble polymers, fatty
alcohols and mixtures thereof. Suitable nonionic polymers include such water
soluble polymers as cellulose ethers (e.g. hydroxybutyl methyl cellulose,
hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, ethylhydroxy ethyl
cellulose, hydrophobically modified hydroxyethyl cellulose and
hydroxyethylcellulose), polyethylene oxide), polyvinyl alcohol,
polyvinylpyrrolidone, hydroxypropyl guar gum, amulose, hydroxyethyl amylose,
starch, and starch derivatives. Suitable fatty alcohols are higher molecular
weight, nonvolatile, primary alcohols having the general formula
RCH20H
wherein R is a C$-2o alkyl. They can be produced from natural fats or oils by
reduction of the fatty acid COOH-grouping to the hydroxyl function.
Alternatively,
identical or similarly structured fatty alcohols can be produced according to
conventional synthetic methods known in the art. Suitable fatty alcohols
include,
but are not limited to behenylalcohol, Cg-C~~ alcohols, C~2-C~3 alcohols, C~2-
C~5
alcohols, C~2-C16 alcohols, C~4-C15 alcohols, caprylic alcohol, cetearyl
alcohol,
coconut alcohol, decyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, lauryl
alcohol,
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WO 01/00147 cA o23~saaa 2ooi-i2-2o pCT~S00/17634
oleyl alcohol, palm kernel alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, tallow
alcohol,
tridecyl alcohol or myristyl alcohol.
Other Optional Ingredients
The compositions of the present invention can comprise a wide range of other
optional components. These additional components should be pharmaceutically
acceptable. Non-limiting examples of functional classes of ingredients
suitable
for use in the compositions of the present invention include: abrasives,
absorbents, anti-acne actives, anticaking agents, anti-dandruff agents, anti-
perspirant agents, antioxidants, anti-viral actives, artificial tanning
actives and
accelerators, biological additives, bleach, bleach activators, brighteners,
builders, buffering agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants,
cosmetics, cleansers, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants,
deodorants, desquamation actives, depilatories, drug astringents, dyes, dye
transfer agents, enzymes, external analgesics, foam generators, flavours, film
formers, fragrance components, insect repellents, mildewcides, non-steroidal
anti-inflammatory active, opacifying agents, oxidative dyes, oxidising agents,
pest control ingredients, pH adjusters such as citric acid, pH buffers,
pharmaceutical actives, plasticizers, preservatives, radical scavengers, skin,
hair
or nail bleaching agents, skin, hair or nail conditioners, skin, hair or nail
penetration enhancers, stabilisers, surfactants, surface conditioners,
reducing
agents, temperature depressors, viscosity modifiers, and warmth generators
such as exothermic zeolites. Also useful herein are aesthetic components such
as colourings, essential oils, and skin healing agents. Other optional
materials
herein include pigments. Pigments suitable for use in the compositions of the
present invention can be organic and/or inorganic. Also included within the
term
pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre such as matte finishing
agents, and also light scattering agents. Examples of suitable pigments are
iron
oxides, acyglutamate iron oxides, titanium dioxide, ultramarine blue, D&C
dyes,
carmine, and mixtures thereof.
Formulation Process
The compositions of the present invention are prepared in such a way that the
quaternary ammonium compound forms vesicles. Said vesicles also comprise
emollient. Preferably said vesicles also comprise humectant. In order to
ensure
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CA 02376888 2001-12-20
WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
optimal performance characteristics it is preferred that the compositions of
the
present invention are prepared as follows:
(i) all or part of the quaternary ammonium agent is mixed with humectant,
water soluble skin care actives (where included), and, preferably, polar
solvent at a temperature which is higher than the melting point of the
quaternary ammonium agent;
(ii) optionally, the mixture is vigorously agitated;
(iii) In a separate vessel the emulsion is prepared as follows; the oil phase
containing the emollients, the relevant thickener in case the said
thickener is oil soluble, and any remaining quaternary ammonium
agent are mixed together at a temperature which is higher than the
melting point of the quaternary ammonium compound. The aqueous
phase is prepared separately. The water, the relevant thickener in
case the said thickener is water soluble, and any remaining water
soluble ingredients are heated to the same temperature as the oil
phase.
(iv) the temperature of the oil and aqueous phases of the emulsion are
then approximately equalised and the aqueous phase is combined with
the oil phase with agitation.
(v) On production of the emulsion the mixture formed in step (i) is added
to the aforementioned emulsion with agitation.
Method of Use
The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be used in a
conventional manner for the treatment of skin. An effective amount of the
composition, typically from about 0.1 grams to about 50 grams, preferably from
about 1 gram to about 20 grams, is applied to wet or dry, preferably wet,
skin.
Application of the composition typically includes working the composition into
the skin, generally with the hands and fingers. The composition is then left
on
the skin or, preferably, the skin is rinsed.
The preferred method of treating the skin, therefore, comprises the steps of:
(a) applying an effective amount of the cosmetic composition to the skin,
(b) rinsing the skin.
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WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
A preferred aspect of the present invention involves the above method with an
application of the composition on dry skin before an application on wet skin.
Therefore, a preferred method comprises:
(i) applying to dry skin an effective amount of the cosmetic composition;
(ii) rinsing the skin under a shower;
(iii) further application of said composition; and
(iv) further rinsing.
Much of the damage to human skin is caused by repeated exposure to
surfactant containing compositions during washing routines. It has been found
that this damage can be mitigated using the present compositions. Therefore,
another preferred method comprises:
(i) washing the skin using a composition comprising surfactants;
(ii) rinsing the skin;
(iii) applying to the wet skin a composition according to the present
invention;
(iv) rinsing the skin.
It has also been found that the present compositions are particularly useful
when
incorporated as part of a regular routine. Therefore, another preferred method
comprises:
(i) applying to the skin a composition comprising:
(a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound;
(b) humectant; and
(ii) rinsing the skin;
(iii) repeating steps (i) and (ii) within 48 hours.
The present compositions can also be useful in mitigating damage caused by
exposure of the skin to ultra violet radiation, damage caused by exposure of
the
skin to water during swimming or similar water based exercise, damage caused
by shaving or exfoliation or damage caused by exposure of the skin to water
during bathing.
Examples
The following examples further illustrate the preferred embodiments within the
scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purposes
CA 02376888 2001-12-20
WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present
invention
as many variations of the invention are possible without departing from its
spirit
or scope. Unless otherwise indicated, all ingredients are expressed on a
weight
percentage of the active ingredient.
Example 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
Weight
Quaternary 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 A
Ammonium
Agent
see notes
below
GI cerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - A
Urea - - - - - - - 22 22 22 22 22 22 A
Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - - - 10 - 12 15 8
Lanolin' - - - 7.5 5 - 15 - - - 10 10 - B
Coronet Lanolin'- - - - - - 5 - - - - - - B
Super Sterol- - - - - - 5 - - - - - ' B
Esters '
Sefa Cottonate21 21 12 12 - - - 21 21 12 12 - - B
Dimethicone - 0.50.50.5 - 0.50.5 0.5 - - - 0.50.5 8
1 OCst
Dimethicone - 1.01.01.0 - 1.01.0 1.0 - - - 1.01.0 8
1 OOOCst
C clomethicone- 2.52.52.5 - 2.52.5 2.5 - - - 2.52.5 B
FlorasunPEG-10- 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - 8
2
Meth I Paraben0.5 0.50.50.5 0.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 A
Pro I Paraben0.5 0.50.50.5 0.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 8
Disodium 0.1 0.10.10.1 0.10.10.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.10.1 A
EDTA
Sodium Benzoate0.3 0.30.30.3 0.30.30.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.30.3 8
Niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 A
Panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 A
Tocopherol 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 8
Acetate
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WO 01/00147 cA o23~saaa 2ooi-i2-2o PCT/US00/17634
Retinol Palmitate0.1- - - - - 0.05- - 0.1 - - -
Parsol 1789 - 1 - 1 0.5 - 0.1 - 1 - 1 - 1 8
3
Parsol MCX - 5 - 5 2.5 - 0.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 8
3
Citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.50.5 1 0.5 1 0.3 0.751 1 1 A
Salic lic - 0.5 - 0.50.5 - 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - A
acid
Triethanolamine0.1- - 0.10.1 - - - 0.1 - - 0.9 0.5 C
Sodium H - - 0.10.10.1 - - 0.1 - 0.1 - - - C
droxide
Polyquaternium- - 1.0 - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 8
Pol mer KG - 0.7 - 0.7 - - - 0.8 - - - 8
30'
Fra rance 0.50.5 0.50.50.5 - 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 0.5 E
Ce I Alcohol3 - - - 2.6 - - 2.2 - 2.2 - 2.5 - C
Stea I Alcohol2 - - - 1.5 - - 3.2 - 1.1 - 1.6 - C
Cetea I Alcohol- - 4 - 0.4 - - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C
Behen I Alcohol2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C
Natrosol 1 - - - 0.4 - - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.25C
330 Plus
Natrosol - - 1 - 0.3 - - - - 1.2 - - 0.3 C
250 HHR
Ja uar HP - 1.2 - - - - - - - - 0.8- - D
105 5
Ja uar C14S - - - 1 - - - - - - - - - D
5
Ja uar C13S - - - - - 1.2- - - - - - - D
5
Xanthan Gum - - - - - - 2~0 - - - - - - D
Sodium Chloride- - 0.1- - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - A
Water s s s s s s s s s s s s s A
Example 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
Weight
Quaternary 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 A
Ammonium
Agent
see notes
below
GI cerine 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 - - - - - - A
Urea - - - - - - - 22 22 22 22 22 22 A
Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - - - 10 - 12 15 8
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WO 01/00147 CA 02376888 2001-12-20 pCT/US00/17634
Lanolin' - - - 7.55 - 15 - - - 10 10 - B
Coronet Lanolin'- - - - - - 5 - - - - - - 8
Super Sterol- - - - - - 5 - - - - - - B
Esters '
Sefa Cottonate21 21 12 12 - - - 21 21 12 12 - - 8
Dimethicone - 0.5 0.50.5- 0.5 0.5 0.5 - - - 0.50.5 B
1 OCst
Dimethicone - 1.0 1.01.0- 1.0 1.0 1.0 - - - 1.01.0 B
1 OOOCst
C clomethicone- 2.5 2.52.5- 2.5 2.5 2.5 - - - 2.52.5 8
Florasun - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - - B
PEG-10
z
Meth I Paraben0.50.5 0.50.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 0.50.5 A
Pro I Paraben0.50.5 0.50.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 0.50.5 B
Disodium 0.10.1 0.10.10.10.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.10.1 0.10.1 A
EDTA
Sodium Benzoate0.30.3 0.30.30.30.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.30.3 0.30.3 8
Niacinamide 5 5 3 5 5 5 3 5 5 5 A
Panthenol 3 3 1 3 3 3 1 3 3 3 A
Tocopherol 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 0.5 2 2 2 8
Acetate
Retinol Palmitata0.1- - - - 0.05 - - - - - - 0.158
Parsol 1789 - 1 - 1 0.5- 0.1 - 1 - 1 - 1 8
3
Parsol MCX - 5 - 5 2.5- 0.5 - 5 - 5 - 5 B
3
Citric acid 1 0.5 1 0.50.51 0.5 1 0.3 0.71 1 1 A
5
Salic lic - 0.5 - 0.50.5- 0.5 - 0.7 - - - - A
acid
Triethanolamine0.1- - 0.10.1- - - 0.1 - - 0.90.5 C
Sodium H - - 0.10.10.1- - 0.1 - 0.1- - - C
droxide
Pol uat.10 - - 1.0 - 0.5 - 0.6 - - - 0.5 8
Pol mer KG - 0.7 - 0.7- - - 0.8- - - 8
30 4
Fra rance 0.50.5 0.50.50.5- 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.5 0.50.5 E
Ce I Alcohol3 - - - 2.6- - 2.2 - 2.2- 2.5- C
Stea I Alcohol2 - - - 1.5- - 3.2 - 1.1- 1.6- C
Cetea I Alcohol- - 4 - 0.4- - - 3.4 - - - 3.4 C
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Behen I Alcohol2 - 2 - - - - 0.6 - 0.7 - - - C
Natrosol 1 - - - 0.4- - 0.7 0.6 - 0.5 0.25C
330 Plus
Natrosol - - 1 - 0.3- - - - 1.2 - - 0.3 C
250 HHR
Ja uar HP - 1.2- - - - - - - - 0.8- - D
105 5
Ja uar C14S - - - 1 - - - - - ' - ' - D
Ja uar C13S - - - - - 1.2 - - - - - - - D
5
Xanthan Gum - - - - - - 2.0 - - - - - - D
Sodium Chloride- - 0.1- - - 0.5 0.2 - 0.3 - - - A
Water s s s s s s s s s s s s s A
Example 2728 29 3031 32 33 3435 36 37 38 39 40 41
Weight
Quaternary 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 A
Ammonium
Agent
see notes
below
GI cerine 1516 22 9 8 9 - 3232 32 32 32 32 32 32 A
Pro lene - 16 - - - 5 12 - - - - - - - - A
GI col
Bu lene GI - - 8 8 - 8 12 - - - - - - - - A
col
Urea _ _ _ 12_ 2 9 _ _ _ _ _ _ _ - A
Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - - 4 7.5- 12 5 - 6 8
Lanolin ' - - - 7.57.5- 15 - 3.5- 3 - - - - B
Coronet Lanolin'- - - - - - - - 7 - 6.7- - 6 - 8
Super Sterol- - - - - - - - 3.5- 6.5- 3 6 3 8
Esters '
Isohexadecane- - - - - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 8
Isononyl _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ 3 _ 5 _ _ _ B
Isononanoate
Sefa Cottonate2121 12 12- - - 13- 8 - - 8 12 10 8
Sefa Behenate- - - - - - - 9 - - 3 - 5 ' - B
Dimethicone - 0.50.50.5- 0.5 0.50.5- - - 0.50.5- - B
10Cst
Dimethicone - 1.01.01.0- 1.0 1.01.0- - - 1.01.0- - B
29
CA 02376888 2001-12-20
WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
lOOOCst
C clomethicone- 2.52.52.5- 2.52.52.5- - - 2.52.5 - - B
Florasun - 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - - 3 - ' 2~5 - B
PEG-10
2
Meth I Paraben0.50.50.50.50.50.50.50.50.50.5 0.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 A
Pro I Paraben0.50.50.50.50.50.50.50.50.50.5 0.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 8
Disodium 0.10.10.10.10.10.10.10.10.10.1 0.10.10.1 0.1 0.1 A
EDTA
Sodium Benzoate0.30.30.30.30.30.30.30.30.30.3 0.30.30.3 0.3 0.3 8
Niacinamide3 5 5 5 5 5 3 3 5 5 5 3 A
Panthenol 1 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 1 A
Toco herol 0.52 2 2 2 2 0.50.5 2 2 2 0.5 B
Acetate
Retinol - - - 0.1- 0.05- - 0.1- - - - - - B
Palmitate
Parsol 1789- 1 - 1 0.5- 1 - 1 - 1 - 0.1 1 - 8
3
Parsol MCX - 5 - 5 2.5- 5 - 5 - 5 - 0.5 5 - B
3
Citric acid1 0.51 0.50.51 0.51 0.30.751 1 1 1 - A
Salic lic - 0.5- 0.50.5- 0.5- 0.7- - - - - 0.5 A
acid
Triethanolamine0.1- - 0.10.1- - - 0.1- - 0.90.5 - - C
Sodium H - - 0.10.10.1- - 0.1- 0.1 - - - - 0.6 C
droxide
Pol uaternium- - - 1.0- - 0.5- 0.6- - - 0.5 1.0 - B
Pol mer - 0.7- - 0.7- - - 0.8 - - - - 0.8 B
KG 30 4
Fra rance 0.50.50.50.50.5- 0.50.50.50.5 0.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 E
Cet I Alcohol3 - - - 2.6- - 2.2- 2.2 - 2.5- - 3.2 C
Stea I Alcohol2 - - - 1.5- - 3.2- 1.1 - 1.6- - 2.6 C
Cetea I - - 4 - 0.4- - - 3.4- - - 3.4 - - C
Alcohol
Behen I 2 - 2 - - - - 0.6- 0.7 - - - - 0.2 C
Alcohol
Natrosol 1 - - 0.4- - 0.70.6 - 0.50.25- 0.6 C
330 Plus
Natrosol - - 1 - 0.3- - - - 1.2 - - 0.3 - - C
250 HHR
Ja uar HP - 1.2- _ _ _ _ _ - _ 0.8- _ _ _ p
105 5
Ja uar C14S- - - 1 - - - - - - - - - - - D
5
Ja uar C13S- - - - - 1.2- - - - - - - 0.8 - D
5
Xanthan - - - - - - 3.0- - - - - ' - ' p
Gum
Sodium Chloride- - 0.1- - - 0.50.2- 0.3 - - - 0.2 0.1 A
Water s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s A
42 ~ 43 ~ 44 ~ 45 ~ 46 ~ 47 ~ 48 ~ 49 ~ 50 ~ 51 ~ 52 ~ 53 ~ 54 ~ 55 ~ 56
WO 01/00147 cA o23~saaa 2ooi-i2-2o PCT/US00/17634
Weight
Quaternary 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 A
Amm.
A ent see
notes
GI cerine 15 16 22 9 8 9 - 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 A
Pro lene - 16 - - 5 12 - - - A
GI col
But lene - 8 8 8 12 - - - - - A
GI col
Urea - 12 - 2 9 _ _ _ _ A
Petrolatum - - 10 - 12 15 - 4 7.5 - 12 5 - 6 8
Lanolin' - - - 7.5 7.5- 15 - 3.5 3 - - B
Coronet - - - - - - - 7 - 6.7 6 8
Lanolin'
Su er Sterol - - - - 3.5 6.5 3 6 3 8
Esters'
Isohexadecane - - - - - 5 - 3 - - 3 B
Isononyl - - - - - - - - - 3 - 5 - - - B
Isononanoate
Sefa Cottonate21 21 12 12 - - 13 8 - 8 12 10 B
Sefa Behenate- - - - 9 3 - 5 - - B
Dimethicone- 0.50.50.5 - 0.50.50.5 0.50.5 B
lOCst
Dimethicone 1.01.01.0 - 1.01.01.0- 1.01.0- - 8
1000Cst
C clomethicone 2.52.52.5 - 2.52.52.5 2.52.5 B
Florasun 2 - 2 - 3 - 1 - 3 - 2.5 8
PEG-10
z
Meth I Paraben0.50.50.50.5 0.50.50.50.50.50.5 0.5 0.50.50.5 0.5A
Pro Paraben0.50.50.50.5 0.50.50.50.50.50.5 0.5 0.50.50.5 0.5B
Disodium 0.10.10.10.1 0.10.10.10.10.10.1 0.1 0.10.10.1 0.1A
EDTA
Sodium Benzoate0.30.30.30.3 0.30.30.30.30.30.3 0.3 0.30.30.3 0.38
Niacinamide3 5 5 5 5 5 3 3 5 5 5 3 A
Panthenol 1 3 3 3 3 3 1 1 3 3 3 1 A
Toco herol 0.52 2 2 2 2 0.50.5 2 2 2 0.5B
Acetate
Retinol - - - 0.05- - 0.1- B
Palmitate
Parsol 1789 1 1 0.5- 1 - 1 - 1 0.11 - 8
3
Parsol MCX' 5 - 5 2.5 5 - 5 - 5 - 0.55 8
Citric acid1 0.51 0.5 0.51 0.51 0.30.751 1 1 1 - A
Sali lic - 0.5 0.5 0.5- 0.5- 0.7 0.5A
acid
Triethanolamine0.1- - 0.1 0.1 - 0.1 0.90.5 C
31
CA 02376888 2001-12-20
WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
Sodium H - 0.10.1 0.1- - 0.1- 0.1 - - - - 0.6 C
droxide
Pol uaternium- - 1.0 - 0.5- 0.6 - - - 0.51.0- B
Pol er KG - 0.7- - 0.7 - 0.8 - 0.8 B
30
fTl
Fra rance 0.50.50.50.5 0.5- 0.50.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.50.50.5 E
Cet I Alcohol3 - - 2.6- - 2.2- 2.2 - 2.5 3.2 C
Stea Alcohol2 - - - 1.5- - 3.2- 1.1 1.6- 2.6 C
'
Cetea - - 4 - 0.4 - - 3.4 - - 3.4- C
I Alcohol
Behen Alcohol2 - 2 - - 0.6- 0.7 - - - 0.2 C
Natrosol 1 - - 0.4- - 0.70.6 - 0.50.2- 0.6 C
330 Plus
Natrosol - 1 - 0.3 - - - 1.2 - 0.3 - C
250 HHR
Ja uar HP - 1.2- - - - - - - 0.8 - - - D
105 5
Ja uar C14S - - 1 - - - - - - - - D
5
Ja uar C13S - - - - 1.2- - - - - 0.8- D
5
Xanthan - - - - 3.0 - - - - - D
Gum
Sodium Chloride 0.1- 0.50.2 0.3 - 0.20.1 A
Water qs qs ~ ~ ~ ~ qs qs 4s 9s 4s qs qs qs qs A
qs qs qs qs ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
1; Available from Croda
2; Available from Floratech, AZ, USA
3: Available from Hoffman La Roche, NJ, USA
4; Available from Amerchol, NJ, USA
5; Available from Rhodia, NJ, USA
Notes
~ In examples 1,4,7,9,17,20,22,24,28,36,38,47,49,53,56 the quaternary
ammonium compound used is Distearyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride
supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft TA100.
~ In examples
2,3,5,6,8,10,15,16,18,19,21,23,26,27,31,33,34,35,37,41,45,46,48,50,51,52,5
4,55, the quaternary ammonium compounds used is N,N-di(canolyl-oxy-
ethyl)-N methyl,N-(2-hydroxyethyl)Ammonium Methyl Sulfate supplied by
Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat V3620.
32
CA 02376888 2001-12-20
WO 01/00147 PCT/US00/17634
In Example 11 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N,N-di(canolyl-
oxy-ethyl)-N methyl,N-(2-hydroxyethyl)Ammonium Methyl Sulfate supplied by
Goldschmidt, trade name Rewoquat WE18
~ In Example 12 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N,N-di(canolyl-
oxy-ethyl)-N methyl,N-(2-hydroxyethyl)Ammonium Chloride supplied by
Goldschmidt, developmental material (WE25)
~ In Example13 the quaternary ammonium compound used is
Methylbis(hydrogenated tallowamidoethyl)(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methyl
sulfate supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 110.
~ In Example 14 the quaternary ammonium compound used is
Methylbis(tallowamidoethyl)(2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium methyl sulfate
supplied by Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 222.
~ In Example 25 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methyl-1-
tallowoylethyl-2-tallowimidazoline supplied by Goldschmidt, developmental
material
~ In Example 29 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methyl-1-
tallowamidoethyl-2-tallowimidazoline supplied by Goldschmidt, developmental
material
~ In Example 30 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methyl-1
tallowoylethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methyl sulfate supplied by Goldschmidt,
~ In Example 32 the quaternary ammonium compound used is Methyl-1-
tallowamidoethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methyl sulfate supplied by
Goldschmidt, trade name Varisoft 475, Varisoft 445
~ In Example 39 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N,N-Dimethyl-N-
(canolyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-(canolamidoethyl) amine, supplied by Kao.
~ In Example 40 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N,N-Dimethyl-N-
(canolyl-oxy-ethyl)-N-(canolamidoethyl) Ammonium Methyl Sulfate, supplied
by Kao
~ In Example 42 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N,N'-Bis(2-
talloyloxyethyl)-N,N,N',N'-Tetramethylene Diammonium Dichloride, as
disclosed in patents US 4728337, US 4721512, US 4906413 from Ciba-Geigy
Corporation
~ In Example 43 the quaternary ammonium compound used is N,N'-Bis(2-
canolyloxyethyl)-N,N'-Dimethyl-N,N'-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-1,6-Hexane
33
WO 01/00147 cA o23~saaa 2ooi-i2-2o pCT~S00/17634
Diammonium Methyl Sulfate, as disclosed in patents EP 0503155A1 & EP
0803498 from Goldschmidt-Witco.
~ In Example 44 the quaternary ammonium compound used is the di and oligo
ester quats made by the reaction of fatty acid, di functional (or multi
functional) acid and triethanolamine followed by quaternisation as disclosed
in
W098/49132 by Kao and US 5880289 by Henkel.
Process
For those examples including component C:
1. Premix 1: Combine components of group A together at a temperature
greater than the transition temperature of the chosen quaternary ammonium
compound, keeping back a predetermined part of the quaternary ammonium
compound and water. Vigorously agitate this premix.
2. Premix 2: Combine components of groups B and C with the remaining parts
of the quaternary ammonium compounds and water not previously used in
premix 1. Heat above the melting point of the quat and the oils.
3. Combine Premix 1 & 2 and allow to cool until 40°C, stir in the
perfume.
For those examples including component D:
1. Premix 1: Combine components of group A together at a temperature
greater than the transition temperature of the chosen quaternary ammonium
compound, keeping back a predetermined part of the water. Vigorously
agitate this premix.
2. Premix 2: Combine with agitation the components of group D with the water
not previously used in premix 1.
3. Combine Premix 1 & 2 and components of groups B & E. Vigorously agitate.
The compositions of the above examples provide good skin care benefits, such
as good moisturisation, good hydration, good skin feel, good skin softness
and/or good skin smoothness, with low levels of negatives such as greasiness,
stickiness or tack.
34
