Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-1-
COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SPECIFIC
POLYSACCHARIDE RESINS
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic
composition, with enhanced film forming and dispersion properties. The
cosmetic compositions of the present invention contain at least one
polysaccharide resin and can have one or more properties, such as transfer-
resistance, long-wear, flexibility, and ease of application. The present
invention also relates to cosmetic and pharmaceutical products containing
this composition.
Many cosmetic compositions, including pigmented cosmetics such as
foundations, concealers, mascaras, eyeliners, and sunscreens, leave soft oily
films that can transfer quite easily or form brittle films that flake or
crumble. In
both cases, the result is less than optimal persistence of the composition and
a need for regularly repeated application of the cosmetic composition. For
example, some compositions are capable of becoming deposited, at least in
part, on certain supports with which they are brought into contact, such as,
for
example, a glass, a cup, an item of clothing or the skin. On becoming
deposited, the composition leaves a mark on the support.
There are several transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions that are
known in the art. However, the majority of these compositions can still be
improved. So-called "transfer-free" make-up compositions known in the art
generally comprise, among their constituent fatty substances, volatile oils,
in
particular volatile silicone oils and/or volatile hydrocarbon oils. As a
result, the
majority of these transfer-resistant compositions do not possess good film
forming properties. For example, many of these "transfer-free" compositions
are tacky, thus, the application and spreadability of the compositions could
still be improved.
One reason for poor film formation is that a "transfer-free" make-up
composition can require the use of a complex composition in which the oils
are partially replaced by volatile solvents which evaporate on contact with
the
skin, leaving a layer composed essentially of waxes and/or resins, pigments,
fillers and actives. Apart from the preparation difficulties associated with
the
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-2-
use of volatile compounds, this solution can have the drawback of leading to
a make-up effect of powdery and matte appearance.
Other compositions leave brittle films that flake and crumble following
application. Supports for cosmetic compositions such as skin and hair
naturally bend and flex. However, there are film formers used in the art that
result in a hard or brittle film that does not bend or stretch once applied.
The
resulting formulations, therefore, especially when applied to shape or style,
e.g., hair or eyelashes, flake and fall apart because of their brittle nature.
The need therefore remains for stable cosmetic compositions
comprising film formers that are transfer-resistant, flexible, can be used for
shaping and contouring, and which also possess good cosmetic properties
such as ease of application, smooth and consistent film formation, comfort,
ease of make-up removal, and are non greasy, non tacky, and non runny
during application. An objective of this invention is to provide cosmetic
compositions containing as many of these properties as possible.
In addition to the limitations of many film formers, another problem
prevalent in the preparation of formulations in the cosmetic and
pharmaceutical industry is the dispersion of components which make up a
composition. A great deal of time and energy is spent in an attempt to obtain
an even distribution or dispersion of ingredients. A uniform dispersion of
components that make up a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition,
including dispersion of pigments, can result in enhanced properties such as
improved efficacy, brighter color, higher gloss, uniformity of batches, less
clumping, and less energy required for mixing.
Sufficient pigment dispersion can thus improve the properties of color
cosmetics. There are several products available in the art for use as pigment
dispersants, including KAMA KM13, a polysaccharide resin available from
KAMA International Corp., Duluth, GA. KM13 can lower the viscosity of a
pigmented composition and improve the pigment wetting, thereby improving
color, gloss, and ease of mixing. KM13 also is known to form a film that dries
in air. However, polysaccharide resins are water soluble, a property that has
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-3-
been considered by some to be undesirable for a film former used for
transfer-resistant or long-wearing compositions.
Therefore, in addition to compositions containing improved film
formers, there is also a need for compositions where the components are
more readily and effectively dispersed. As noted above, the use of more
effective dispersion aids should result in improved properties and more
consistent cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.
To achieve these and other advantages, in whole or in part, the
present invention is, in one embodiment, drawn to a composition comprising
at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than said
at least one polysaccharide resin present in a combined amount effective to
impart at least one of the following properties to the composition. These
properties include, but are not limited to, transfer-resistance for cosmetic
compositions such as mascara, eyeliner, and sunscreens; flexible film
formation for cosmetic compositions such as mascara, eyeliner, and
sunscreens; control of the curling effect or lengthening effect of mascara on
eyelashes; and increased UV light absorption for sunscreens. These
properties will be discussed in greater detail below.
In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a method of
forming a transfer-resistant film by applying to a keratinous substance at
least
one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than said at least
one polysaccharide resin. Keratinous substances are defined herein as skin,
hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and nails. A method of forming a flexible, non-
brittle film by applying to a keratinous substance at least one polysaccharide
resin and at least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide
resin is also within the practice of the invention. In another aspect of the
invention, a flexible film, which is also transfer-resistant, is formed.
In yet another embodiment, the present invention relates to a method
of producing a curling or styling effect on keratinous fibers, by applying to
these fibers a composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and
at least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin.
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-4-
The present invention is also drawn to a method effective for
controlling lengthening effect and/or the volume of a mascara product on the
eyelashes. Specifically, a mascara composition comprising at least one
polysaccharide resin, at least one film former other than said at least one
polysaccharide resin, at least one volatile solvent and at least one spherical
particle is applied in a layer-upon-layer fashion until a desired length or
volume of eyelash is obtained.
In yet another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to a method
for increasing the ultraviolet (UV) light adsorption properties of a sunscreen
composition by including in the sunscreen composition at least one
polysaccharide resin.
It is also an embodiment of the invention to use compositions
comprising a polysaccharide resin and optionally at least one film former
other than said at least one polysaccharide resin to disperse the components
of a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, such components including, but
not limited to, pigments and/or UV light dispersing compounds.
Reference will now be made in detail to embodiments) of the
invention.
The present invention relates, inter alia, to a composition comprising at
least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than said at
least one polysaccharide resin in a combined amount effective to impart at
least one of certain properties to the composition. In a first embodiment, the
inventive composition is in the form of a transfer-resistant cosmetic
composition, in which the at least one polysaccharide resin and the at least
one film former are present in a combined amount effective to impart transfer-
resistant properties to the composition. The transfer-resistant cosmetic
composition may be a mascara, an eyeliner, or a sunscreen composition.
Each of these compositions will be discussed in further detail below. The
transfer-resistant cosmetic composition may also be chosen from, but is not
limited to, foundations, concealers, blush, eyeshadows, lipsticks, and nail
enamels.
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-5-
In addition to transfer-resistant cosmetic compositions, the present
invention further relates to a method of forming a transfer-resistant film by
applying to a keratinous substance at least one polysaccharide resin and at
least one film former other than the at least one polysaccharide resin.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition that
forms a flexible film, where the composition comprises at least one
polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than said at least one
polysaccharide resin present in a combined amount effective to impart
flexibility to the film. In the context of the present invention, flexibility
is
defined as durability of a film when subjected to movement such as facial
expressions, i.e., the films of this embodiment of the present invention
resist
flaking or becoming brittle. The flexible film-forming cosmetic composition
may be, for example, a mascara, an eyeliner, or a sunscreen composition.
The films formed by these embodiments of the inventive compositions contain
at least one of the following properties:
good adherence to substrates, flexibility, good wearability, good drying time,
non- tackiness, good retention, transfer-resistant properties, and/or low
migration over time, among other properties.
The flexible film-forming cosmetic composition may also be chosen
from, but is not limited to, foundations, concealers, blush, eyeshadows,
lipsticks, and nail enamels.
Also encompassed by an embodiment of the present invention is a
method of forming a flexible film by applying to a keratinous substance at
least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other than the at
least one polysaccharide resin.
Another embodiment of the present invention also encompasses a
cosmetic composition that forms a film which is both transfer-resistant and
flexible, where the composition comprises at least one polysaccharide resin
and at least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin
in a combined amount effective to impart both transfer-resistant properties
and flexibility to the film. The transfer-resistant, flexible film-forming
cosmetic
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-6-
composition may be, for example, a mascara, an eyeliner, a sunscreen, a
foundation, a concealer, a blush, an eyeshadow, a lipstick, or a nail enamel.
In addition to cosmetic compositions that form a transfer-resistant
flexible film, another embodiment of the present invention further relates to
a
method of forming a transfer-resistant flexible film by applying to a
keratinous
substance at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former other
than the at least one polysaccharide resin.
Film formation occurs when the solvent evaporates at a rate that
preferably allows a film to form continuously and substantially free from
imperfections. The polysaccharide resins of the present invention are known
in the art as film formers. However, the combination of at least one
polysaccharide resin with at least one other film former, such as a polymer or
a wax, can result in the synergistic effect of improved film forming
properties
including transfer and water resistance. At least one polysaccharide resin
used alone, i.e., not in combination with another, different, film former,
that
imparts the desired transfer-resistant or film forming properties also
constitutes an embodiment of the inventive composition.
The at least one polysaccharide resin and the at least one film former
are present in a combined amount effective to impart at least one of the
desired properties to the inventive composition, i.e., the amount necessary to
obtain a desired effect, such as transfer resistance, flexible film formation,
control of the curling effect or lengthening effect of mascara, and increased
UV light absorption for sunscreens.
One of skill in the art can determine routinely the effective amount of
polysaccharide resin and other film former to use in the inventive
compositions depending on the application and the properties desired. One
of skill in the art will also be able to determine routinely the amount of
polysaccharide resin film former, other film former, and other ingredients
needed to obtain a stable cosmetic or pharmaceutical product, depending on
the application. As defined herein, a stable cosmetic or pharmaceutical
product is one of sufficient stability to enable effective commercialization
of
the cosmetic or pharmaceutical product.
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
_7_
Overall, the compositions of the invention may provide at least one of
excellent transfer resistance, adherence, flexibility and long wearing
properties, shaping or contouring properties, and ingredient dispersing
properties, in a broad range of applications. These inventive compositions
may be in the form of, but are not limited to, pigmented cosmetics, including
foundations, concealers, blush, mascaras, eyeliners, lipsticks, eyeshadows,
and nail enamels or varnishes, hair sprays, gels and mousses, sunscreen
lotions, moisturizing lotions, and lotions, oils or creams with active
ingredients
or fragrances.
The compositions of the present invention can particularly be useful in
any cosmetic or pharmaceutical application which relates to formation of a
flexible film that adheres to a keratinous substance. Further, the
compositions of the invention can be used to hold or bind topical coatings,
active ingredients and functional ingredients onto a substrate. The active or
functional ingredients may include pigments, UV filters, moisturizing agents,
fragrance, pharmaceutical agents and other active or functional ingredients
known in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical arts.
In another embodiment of the invention, the compositions of the
present invention comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least
one additional film former are effective in waterproofing. The compositions
may therefore minimize washoff of the active or functional ingredients. The
compositions may also retard dehydration of the skin by forming an occlusive
film and reducing traps-epidermal water loss. In one embodiment, the
compositions can provide a barrier between the skin and the environment
which entraps the active and/or functional ingredients. The barrier formed by
said compositions may boost the activity of the functional ingredients
resulting
in increased sun protection factor (SPF) and UV light protection and/or block
the effect of the humidity and the environment.
In another embodiment, the at least one polysaccharide resin of the
present invention comprises numerous hydroxyl groups and hydrophobic
groups. The polysaccharide resin can be in the form of colloidal suspensions
of fine, highly modified particles such as starch particles. The fine
particles
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
_g_
may vary in size, and include particles with a diameter of 10 microns or less.
In a further embodiment, the transfer-resistant and flexible film forming
compositions of the present invention comprise:
(1 ) at least one polysaccharide resin comprised of numerous hydroxyl
groups and hydrophobic groups which is in the form of a colloidal suspension
of fine, highly modified starch particles and
(2) at least one film former other than said at least one polysaccharide
resin, wherein (1 ) and (2) are present in a combined amount effective to
impart transfer-resistant and/or flexible film forming properties to the
composition.
In yet another embodiment, the polysaccharide resin of the present
invention is chosen from the polysaccharide resins available from KAMA,
International Corp., Duluth, GA. For example, polysaccharide resin KM13 is a
highly modified, colloidal suspension in water of finely divided starch
particles
with a diameter of less than 10 microns. KM13 is a co-reactive resin which
will form hydrogen bonds with other resins. KM13 contains numerous
hydroxyl groups which contribute to the wetting of pigments in aqueous
systems and hydrophobic groups that permit acceptance in solvent based
systems without pigment flocculation or flotation.
Polysaccharide resins are water soluble and therefore a
polysaccharide film former may be formulated by dissolving the
polysaccharide resin in an aqueous system. In another embodiment, the
polysaccharide resin may be added to other solvent based systems by
dispersing into the solvent system a polysaccharide resin that has been
previously dissolved in water. The compositions of the present invention
including at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one film former
other than the polysaccharide resin may also be utilized in water-in-oil or
oil-
in-water emulsions. The polysaccharide resin film formers and the film
formers other than the polysaccharide resins may be contained in either the
water phase or in the oil phase or both. In an embodiment, at least one of
the polysaccharide resin film formers is in the water phase and at least one
of the other, i.e., non-polysaccharide resin, film formers is in the oil
phase.
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
_g_
In other embodiments of the invention, at least one of the other film formers
may be in the oil phase, the water phase, or there may be at least one of
the other film formers in each of the water and oil phases.
A person skilled in the art will know how to formulate and prepare a
composition which has the desired properties taking into account the
compatibility of the materials. One of ordinary skill in the art will be able
to
determine the solubility parameters and choose a solvent or aqueous based
system based on the at least one polysaccharide resin and the at least one
other film former chosen for the envisaged application. The polysaccharide
film former and non-polysaccharide film former can be compatible with the
other raw materials in the formulation.
Depending on the application, the concentration of polysaccharide
resin in the inventive composition may vary considerably. One of skill in the
art will be able to determine routinely the preferred concentration of
polysaccharide resin depending on the application and the properties
desired. In one representative embodiment, the compositions of the
present invention comprise a polysaccharide resin such as KM13 present in
amounts of from 1 % to 50 % concentration by weight relative to the weight
of the total composition. In another embodiment the polysaccharide resin is
present in amounts of from 5 % to 40 % concentration by weight. For
example, for cosmetic foundations, the polysaccharide resin may be used
in an amount of from 1 % to 50 % by weight, and also from 1 % to 20 % by
weight. For eyeliner formulations, the at least one polysaccharide resin film
former may vary from 1 % to 30 % by weight, and also from 2 % to 20 % by
weight. For mascara formulations, the at least one polysaccharide resin film
former may vary from 0.5 % to 50 % by weight, and also from 1 % to 20
by weight.
The at least one film former other than the at least one
polysaccharide resin that may be used in the practice of the invention may
be chosen from, but is not limited to, celluloses and modified celluloses
such as hydroxyethylcellulose; di-block, tri-block or radial block copolymer
film formers such as KRATONO film formers; vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-10-
(PVP/VA) copolymers such as the Luviskol VA grades (all ranges) from
BASF Corporation and the PVP/VA series from ISP; acrylic fluorinated
emulsion film formers including Foraperle~ film formers such as Foraperle~
303 D from Elf Atochem, although Foraperle~ may not be preferable for
some cosmetic formulations; GANEX~ copolymers such as Butylated PVP,
PVP/Hexadecene copolymer, PVP/ Eicosene copolymer or tricontanyl; Poly
(vinylpyrrolidone/diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) or
PVP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymers such as Copolymer 845;
Resin ACO-5014 (Imidized IB/MA copolymer); other PVP based polymers
and copolymers; silicone gums; cyclomethicone and dimethicone
crosspolymers; trimethyl siloxysilicates such as SR 1000, SS4230, or
SS4267 available from GE Silicones; alkyl cycloalkylacrylate copolymers;
Mexomere~ film formers and other allyl stearate/vinyl acetate copolymers
(allyl stearate/VA copolymers); Polyolprepolymers such as PPG-12/SMDI
copolymer and Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl) a-hydro-c~-hydroxy-polymer with
1,1'-methylene-bis-(4-isocyanatocyclohexane) available from Barnet;
Avalure~ AC Polymers (Acrylates Copolymer) and Avalure~ UR polymers
(Polyurethane Dispersions), available from BFGoodrich; and other film
formers disclosed in the International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook
Vol. 2 (7t" ed. 1997), more particularly the film formers disclosed on pages
1636-1638. The disclosure of the International Cosmetic Dictionary and
Handbook Vol. 2, pages 1636-1638, is hereby incorporated by reference.
Additional film formers which also may be used within the framework
of the invention include any film formers known in the art such as: PVP,
acrylates, and urethanes; synthetic polycondensate polymers, synthetic
free-radical polymers, or synthetic ionic polymers; polymers of natural origin
such as wheat protein film formers and mixtures thereof or any other film
formers known within the practice of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical arts
which one skilled in the art may determine to be compatible.
The other, i.e., non-polysaccharide resin, film former may improve
smoothness or spreadability, water-resistance, transfer resistance
properties, flexibility, or other cosmetic or pharmaceutical properties
desired
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-11-
by one of skill in the art. Other film formers include hydroxyethylcelluloses,
gum arabics polyvinylpyrrolidones, and hydrolyzed wheat proteins. The
polyvinylpyrrolidones may be chosen from PVPs, PVP/Eicosene copolymers
and PVP/Hexadecene copolymers.
The concentration of the non-polysaccharide resin film formers may
be determined by one of skill in the art and may vary considerably based on
the application. For example, for cosmetic emulsions, the at least one non-
polysaccharide film former is used in an amount from 1 % to 10 % by weight
relative to the weight of the total composition, and also from 1 % to 5 % by
weight. For eyeliner formulations, the at least one non- polysaccharide film
former is used in an amount from 0.1 % to 10 % by weight, also from 1 % to
5 % by weight. For mascara formulations, the at least one non-
polysaccharide film former is used in an amount from 0.1 % to 10 % by
weight, also from 1 % to 5 % by weight.
Other compositions known in the art that are intended to leave a film
on keratinous fibers may also be added to the compositions of the invention,
including emollients and other ingredients usually employed in the field
envisaged. These added ingredients may include gels, oils, waxes,
preservatives, thickening agents, solvents, surfactants, emollients and other
ingredients that when incorporated into the formulation stay on top of the
skin and do not strongly adhere to the substrate. Characteristics of some of
these materials may include an oily feeling and increased spreadability, as
observed with some esters and organic sunscreens. In embodiments where
these materials are added to the formulations of the invention to enhance
the spreadability and the emollience of the product, however, it is preferred
that the above materials be present in low enough concentrations for the
formulation to retain its transfer resistance and flexible film forming
properties. The choice of polysaccharide resins, additional film formers and
their concentrations may also be adjusted to vary other cosmetic properties
such as shaping or contouring properties and ingredient dispersion effects,
both of which are discussed below.
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-12-
Emollients that may be used in the compositions of the invention
include glycerin, propylene glycol, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, and
emollients and other similar ingredients disclosed in the International
Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 2 (7t" ed. 1997), more particularly
the emollients disclosed on pages 1656-1661. The disclosure of the
International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 2, pages 1656-1661,
is hereby incorporated by reference. In an embodiment, emollients are
present at a concentration of about 0.1 % to about 20 % by weight relative
to the weight of the total composition.
The compositions of the invention may further include formulation
aids which are usually employed in the field of application envisaged. The
formulation aids used in the present invention can be, but are not limited to,
fatty substances. Useful fatty substances include, but are not limited to,
organic and organosilicone emulsifiers for water-in-oil systems. Examples
of organic emulsifiers include any ethoxylated surfactants known in the art
such as Polysorbate-20, Laureth-7, Laureth-4, Sepigel 305 available from
SEPPIC and other similar ingredients disclosed in the International
Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 2 (T" ed. 1997), more particularly
the emulsifiers disclosed on pages 1679-1687. The disclosure of the
International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 2, pages 1679-1687,
is hereby incorporated by reference. Examples of organosilicone
emulsifiers include cetyl dimethicone copolyol-polyglyceryl-4-isostearate-
hexylaurate (ABIL WE 09) available from Goldschmidt Chemical
Corporation, Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol (ABIL~ EM 90), (ABIL~ EM 97),
Laurylmethicone Copolyol (5200), Cyclomethicone (and) Dimethicone
Copolyol (DC 5225 C and DC 3225 C) available from GE Silicones,
Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethicone Copolyol (GE SF 1528) or any other
formulation aids known by one of skill in the art. Other fatty substances
useful as formulation aids include but are not limited to, silicones in
esterified or unesterified liquid form or in esterified solid form, such as
behenate dimethicone; and non-silicone fatty substances including oils such
as vegetable and mineral oil; animal and/or synthetic waxes such as
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-13-
beeswax, paraffin, rice bran wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax and
derivatives thereof; and hydrocarbon gels or bentone type gels, such as
Gel SS71, Gel EA2786, Quaternium-18 Bentonite, 38 CE, Gel ISD V or Gel
ISD. In one embodiment, formulation aids are present in amounts from
about 0.1 % to about 25 % concentration by weight relative to the weight of
the total composition.
These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled in
the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties,
for example, consistency or texture. In particular, the composition according
to the invention may include at least one of the above-mentioned waxes, so
as to ensure a good mechanical strength, especially when the composition
is in the form of a stick.
Plasticizers may also be added to the compositions to improve the
flexibility and shaping properties of the resulting formulation. Plasticizers
are materials which soften synthetic polymers. They are frequently required
to avoid brittleness and cracking of film formers. One skilled in the art may
routinely vary the amount of plasticizes desired based on the properties
desired and the application envisaged. Plasticizers useful in the practice of
the invention include lecithin, polysorbates, dimethicone copolyol, glycols,
citrate esters, glycerin, dimethicone, and other similar ingredients disclosed
in the International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 2 (7t" ed. 1997),
more particularly the plasticizers disclosed on page 1654. The disclosure of
the International Cosmetic Dictionary and Handbook Vol. 2, page 1654, is
hereby incorporated by reference.
In pigmented products, the amount of polysaccharide resins and
additional film formers can be adjusted for best adherence to the skin or hair
and water resistance. An important consideration is the ratio of pigments to
the amount of film formers. A pigment should be understood to mean
inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Representative pigments
that may be used in the practice of the invention include carbon black,
titanium dioxide, D & C Red No. 7 Calcium Lake, D & C Red No. 21
Aluminum Lake, Iron Oxides, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-14-
Blue no. 1 Aluminum Lake and any other pigment or treated pigment known
in the cosmetic arts. The use of the compositions of the present invention in
pigmented products is especially preferred because of the inherent pigment
dispersing properties of polysaccharide resins.
Fillers and mothers-of-pearl may also be added to said formulations
to modify the texture of the composition and the matteness/gloss effect.
Fillers should be understood to mean lamellar or non-lamellar, inorganic or
synthetic, colorless or white particles. Mothers-of-pearl should be
understood to mean irridescent particles produced especially by certain
mollusks in their shell or else synthesized. Pearling agents that may be
used in the practice of the invention include mica, iron oxides, titanium
dioxide and any other pearling agent known in the cosmetic arts.
It is also possible to add to the composition of the invention any
customary additive from the field of compositions to be applied in any
cosmetic formulation including cosmetic foundations, eyeliners, lipsticks,
mascaras, eyeshadows, concealers, lotions, nail enamels, or any other
mentioned applications of the invention, such additives being chosen from,
but not limited to: thickening agents, such as clays, or organoclays, silicas,
or cellulose derivatives; hectorites; stabilizing agents; synthetic polymers
such as an acrylic polymer or an associative polymer comprising
polyurethane; liposoluble polymers; gums and in particular xanthan gum;
spreading agents; dispersants; preservatives, in particular water-soluble
preservatives; antifoaming agents; wetting agents; chelators such as EDTA
and salts thereof; UV-screening agents; perfumes; fillers; antioxidants;
essential oils; cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agents; moisturizers;
vitamins and derivatives thereof; biological materials and derivatives
thereof.
The person skilled in the art will of course take care to choose the
optional additional compounds and/or their quantity in such a way that the
advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are
not, or are substantially not, impaired by the envisaged addition.
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-15-
Another subject of the invention is mascara. Transfer-resistant and
flexible-film forming mascaras have been discussed. Mascara employing
the composition of the invention may also have increased stability, better
adherence to keratin fibers, greater wear resistance, improved water
resistance, and improved cosmetic properties. Further, the compositions of
the present invention may be used to shape and contour keratinous fibers
by forming a film which can be shaped to a desired configuration or contour
upon application and consequently holds its shape once applied. For
example, the compositions of the present invention can be used to shape,
contour, and/or curl keratinous fibers such as eyelashes. The contoured or
curled eyelashes retain the desired shape following application of these
compositions, in part because the resulting film that is formed adheres to
the lashes and maintains the lashes in a desired shape. The film is flexible
and may also be water resistant.
The use of a polysaccharide resin, i.e., KAMA KM 13, in a mascara
composition at a concentration of 4% relative to the total weight of the
composition is disclosed in PCT/US98/10617. The inventors have
discovered, however, that a curling effect is observed wherein the
polysaccharide resin is present in an amount greater than or equal to 5
relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in an amount
greater than or equal to 10 %. The curling effect is a surprising result not
observed using most conventional film formers found in the art. For
example, the polysaccharide resin, KAMA KM 13, was combined in a
mascara formulation with a hydroxyethylcellulose film former. A curling
effect was observed with as little as 10% KM 13 present in the mascara
formulation. The same formulation, without the KM 13, demonstrated no
curling effect. Accordingly, in one embodiment, a composition of the
invention which gives a curling effect contains at least one polysaccharide
resin in amounts ranging from 5 % to 50 % relative to the total weight of the
composition.
Thus, within the practice of the invention is a method of producing a
curling effect on keratinous fibers, such as eyelashes, comprising applying a
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-16-
composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin and at least one
film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin to a keratinous
fiber in a curling motion. If shaping or contouring in other than a curled
shape is desired, a different motion for application may be required.
The application of the compositions of the invention may be repeated
to enhance the desired shape or effect. Most mascara compositions,
however, cannot be applied in a layer upon layer manner. In other words,
traditionally one has not been able to control the lengthening effect of
mascara on the eyelashes by applying layer on top of layer of mascara.
Thus, in another embodiment of the present invention, the
compositions of the invention may be used to control the extending or
lengthening effect on keratinous fibers such as eyelashes. The at least one
film former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin enhances the
transfer-resistance effect of the compositions. Such compositions also
contain volatile solvents and/or hard spherical particles, both of which are
discussed further below, to aid in repeated application of the mascara to
keratinous fibers.
Accordingly, an embodiment of the invention is drawn to a mascara
composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one film
former other than the polysaccharide resin, at least one volatile solvent, and
at least one spherical particle. The ingredients are present in a combined
amount effective for controlling the lengthening effect of mascara on
keratinous fibers. Such a lengthening mascara formulation can be used for
layer upon layer growth of the applied mascara. A mascara in which the
lengthening effect on the resulting eyelash can be controlled by the amount
of mascara formulation applied or the number of applications of the
mascara formulation is also within the scope of the invention.
Therefore, in another embodiment, the present invention relates to a
method of controlling the lengthening effect of a mascara product on an
eyelash by applying in a layer upon layer manner to said eyelash a
composition comprising at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one film
former other than said at least one polysaccharide resin, at least one
volatile
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-17-
solvent, and at least one spherical particle, wherein the composition is
applied until the desired lengthening or volume effect is achieved.
Volatile solvents are used in the lengthening mascara formulation to
aid drying time and allow for quick re-application. Volatile solvents within
the practice of the invention include but are not limited to, alcohols such as
ethanol, silicones, petroleum distillates, and isoparaffins.
Spherical particles are used in the lengthening mascara formulation
to enhance a smooth feeling and the spread of a composition onto
keratinous fibers or to aid in the repeated application of a formulation as
when a composition is applied in a layer upon layer manner. Spherical
compounds within the practice of the invention include polyurethanes such
as BPD 500, nylon 12, silica, polymethyl methacrylates and other acrylates
or methacrylates and their esters, and other microspheres.
Use of the pigment dispersing properties of polysaccharide resins is
also within the practice of the invention. For example, the polysaccharide
resins of the present invention may be used to improve the dispersion and
uniformity of other ingredients in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical product and
therefore provide greater efficacy of the active ingredients. Not to be
limited as to theory, improved dispersion may lead to more uniform
coverage of the active ingredients and therefore higher efficacy of the active
ingredients.
For example, the compositions described may be used to improve
the dispersion of sunscreens and UV absorbers in a sunscreen formulation
and subsequently increase the UV absorption properties or increase the
SPF per amount of UV absorbing agent present in a formulation.
Additionally, due to the dispersing properties of the polysaccharide resins,
the UV absorbing effect of a composition may be more uniform. In one
embodiment, the improved dispersion of components results in improved
properties such as efficacy, brighter color, higher gloss, uniformity of
batches, less clumping, and less energy required for mixing.
Thus, within the practice of the invention is a method of increasing
the UV light absorption properties of a sunscreen composition, comprising
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-18-
the addition to the sunscreen composition of at least one polysaccharide
resin.
The packaging and application device for any subject of the invention
may be chosen and manufactured by persons skilled in the art on the basis
of their general knowledge, and adapted according to the nature of the
composition to be packaged. Indeed, the type of device to be used may be
in particular linked to the consistency of the composition, specifically to
its
viscosity; it may also depend on the nature of the constituents present in the
composition, such as the presence of volatile compounds.
The invention will be further clarified by the following examples, which
are intended to be illustrative of the invention, but not limiting thereof.
Examples
Example 1: Sunscreen composition
A polysaccharide resin, KAMA KM 13, was added to a sunscreen
composition containing other film formers such as PVP/Eicosene copolymer
and Acrylates/C10-30 Allyl Acrylate Crosspolymer in order to improve the
dispersion of the UV absorbing agent, Ti02. The resulting sunscreen
composition was an oil-in-water emulsion.
Sunscreen g
A1 Stearic Acid 1
Glyceryl Stearate/PEG-100 Stearate 1
Isopropyl Palmitate 12
Dimethicone 1
Phenoxyethanol 0.7
Propylparaben 0.05
PVP/Eicosene copolymer 1
A2 Triethanolamine 0.3
B1 Glycerin 4
Propylene Glycol 4
Methylparaben 0.15
B2 Ti02 10
KAMA-KM 13 1
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-19-
C Xanthan Gum 0.1
D Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer0.2
Isopropyl Palmitate 2.5
E Triethanolamine 0.2
Water 1
F Cyclopentasiloxane
G Water qsp 100
Procedure:
Ingredients in phase A1 were mixed together. Phase A2 was added
to A1 and the resulting mixture was heated to about 80°C. In a separate
container B1 was mixed with water and heated to about 80°C. The two
phases were blended with intense mixing for several minutes until
homogeneous. Phase B2 was blended and then added to the previous mix.
The resulting mixture was cooled to room temperature with constant mixing
and the rest of the ingredients were added. Water was added to bring to
volume.
Example 2: Curling effect mascara
KAMA KM 13 was added to a mascara composition in the form of an
oil-in-water emulsion. The composition also contained the additional film
formers hydrolyzed wheat protein and hydroxyethylcellulose. Upon
application to eyelashes, a curling effect was observed. The curling effect
was enhanced by the application process, i.e., the curling motion of the
mascara application.
Oil-in-water emulsion mascara
A1 Natural waxes 23
A2 Black iron oxide 8
A3 Triethanolamine Stearate (C16/C18 50/50) 7.85
B1 Water qsp 100
B2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.2
B3 Gum arabic 1.5
C Preservatives qs
D Anti-foaming agent 0.12
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-20-
E KAMA KM 13 10
F Hydrolyzed wheat protein 0.2
Procedure:
Phase A was combined by blending A1, A2, and A3 and heating to
85-90°C. The phase was mixed until uniform. Separately B1 was heated to
85-90°C while stirred and B2 and B3 were sprinkled in until uniform.
Phase
A and Phase B were combined and mixed intensively while the temperature
was maintained at 85°C until uniform. C was then added to the combined
A
+ B phase and cooled to 30°C while mixing. Ingredients D through F were
added while mixing.
Example 3: Shaping and Contouring Mascara
KAMA KM 13 was added to a transparent mascara composition
containing the film former hydroxyethylcellulose. A shaping or contouring
effect was observed upon application to eyelashes. The shaping or
contouring was controlled by the application process.
Transparent mascara
A1 Water qsp 100
A2 Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.1
A3 CARBOPOL 1.32
A4 Triethanolamine 1.32
B KAMA KM 13 33
C Preservatives qsp
Procedure:
A1 was heated to 85°C while stirring. A2 was added slowly in the
vortex created by the mixer followed by the addition of A3. A4 was added
and mixed until uniform. The mixture was cooled to room temperature and
B and C were added. The mixture was stirred for 10 minutes until uniform.
Example 4: Curling effect mascara
KAMA KM 13 was added to a wax microdispersion mascara
formulation. The composition also contained the additional film former
hydroxyethylcellulose. Upon application to eyelashes, a curling effect was
observed. The curling effect was also enhanced by the application process.
Wax microdispersion mascara
A1 Carnauba wax 22
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-21-
A2 Glyceryl oxyethylene (30 OE) monostearate 5.5
A3 Water 45
B Sodium hydroxide 0.05
C Black iron oxide 5
D Gum arabic 3.3
E Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.55
F KAMA KM 13 10
G Preservatives qs
H Water qsp 100
Procedure:
Carnauba wax, glyceryl oxyethylene (30 OE) monostearate, and
water were prepared as described in U.S. Patent 5,858,338. The resulting
wax microdispersion was combined at room temperature with B and C and
homogenized until uniform. D and E were sprinkled slowly in the agitated
mixture until uniform. F, G and H were then added to the composition. The
mixing was continued until uniform.
Example 5: VIlateraroof mascara
A mascara formulation that contained the polysaccharide resin,
KAMA KM 13, and the additional film former Allyl Stearate/VA Copolymer,
was prepared. The following formulation demonstrated that a water soluble,
polysaccharide film former is effective in preparing a water resistant and
transfer-resistant mascara composition.
Waterproof Mascara
A1 Petroleum Distillates 50.59
2 Pigment &/or Carbon Black 6.00
B1 Bentone 5.54
2 Isoparaffin 10.50
C1 Rice Starch 1.00
D1 Propylene Carbonate 1.82
E 1 Waxes 15.12
2 Allyl Stearate/VA Copolymer 2.43
3 Polyvinyl Laurate 1.00
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-22-
4 Microspheres 1.00
F 1 KAMA KM 13 2.50
2 Water 2.49
3 Preservatives 0.01
Procedure:
The A ingredients were combined and homogenized for 1 hour. To
the mixture of A ingredients, the B ingredients were added and
homogenized for 10 minutes followed by addition of C1. The entire mixture
was homogenized for another 10 minutes at which time D1 was added and
the mixture was homogenized for an additional 15 minutes. The E
ingredients were heated to 90-95°C, added to the mixture above, the
result
of which was homogenized for 30 minutes while maintaining the formulation
at 60-65°C. Finally, the F ingredients were added and the final
formulation
was homogenized for 3 minutes and cooled to 30-32°C while stirring.
Exam,ale 6; Controlled A,u,olication Mascara
A mascara composition that was effective for the controlled
application of mascara to eyelashes was formulated as described below.
The mascara composition described was applied in a layer upon layer
fashion until a desired lengthening or volume of eyelash was obtained. The
controlled volume or lengthening mascara contained the polysaccharide
resin, KAMA KM 13, and the additional film formers PVP/Hexadecene
copolymer and PVP/Eicosene copolymer.
Controlled Application Mascara
A1 Waxes 15.1
2 Stearic Acid 4.70
3 Preservatives 0.75
4 PVP/Eicosene Copolymer 1.00
B 1 Water 35.70
2 Aqueous Thickener 0.40
3 KAMA KM 13 1.25
4 Lecithin 0.15
5 Pigment &/or Carbon Black 9.00
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-23-
6 PVP/Hexadecene Copolymer 1.00
7 Glycols 3.50
8 Triethanolamine 2.35
C1 Anti-foaming agent 0.10
D1 Volatile Silicone 3.00
2 Silicone Gum 2.50
3 Filler 4.50
E1 Polyurethane 10.00
F Alcohol 5.00
Procedure
The A ingredients were combined, heated to 85-90°C, and mixed
until uniform. In a separate beaker, B1 was heated to 40-45°C at which
time
B2 was slowly added into the vortex. The mixture of B1 and B2 was heated
to 85°C, ingredients B3 through B8 were added and the resulting mixture
was heated to 85°C and milled for 30 minutes.
The B ingredients were added to the A ingredients and milled for an
additional 10 minutes. C was then added to the mixture of A and B and the
formulation was cooled to 40-45°C while mixing. In a separate beaker,
the
D ingredients were combined, mixed until uniform, and added to the mixture
of A, B, and C ingredients. The formulation was mixed until uniform. Finally
E, was added, mixed until uniform and cooled until 30°C and which
time F
was added and the final formulation was mixed for 15 minutes.
Exam,ale 7: Foundation
A polysaccharide resin, KAMA KM 13, was added to a cosmetic
foundation composition containing the additional film former cyclomethicone
and dimethicone crosspolymer.
Cosmetic Foundation
A1 Water 25.00
2 Chelator 0.10
3 Emulsifier 0.40
B 1 Water 15.00
CA 02384098 2002-02-28
WO 01/17488 PCT/US00/24042
-24-
2 Preservative 0.30
3 KAMA KM 13 2.00
4 Polysorbate 20 0.25
Pigments 12.50
5 C1 Emulsifier 0.70
2 Fillers 10.00
D1 Humectant 7.00
2 Thickener 0.15
E1 Silicone oil phase 13.00
2 Emulsifier 1.10
3 Preservative 0.10
4 Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone
Crosspolymer 5.00
5 Moisturizing agent 5.00
F Water qsp 100
Procedure
In a mixing vessel equipped with a propeller typexer, phase
mi A was
blended and heated to 70C. Phase B was mixed in arate container
a sep
and heated to 70C with constant mixing until uniform.
Phase B was added
to phase A. While mixing phase A and B with
the propeller type mixer,
phase C followed by phase D were added. The resultingomposition
c was
added to phase E at 70C and homogenized until F was added
uniform.
and the composition was homogenized until uniform
and swept cool.
