Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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WATER-IN-OIL EMULSIFIED MAKE-UP COMPOSITION
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to make-up compositions which have a
1o water-in-oil emulsion phase type. Specifically, the present invention
relates to
make-up compositions which have specified levels of components which provide
the benefits of both a solid foundation and a liquid foundation. The present
invention also relates to make-up' compositions containing water-soluble skin
treatment agents such as niacinamide.
is
BACKGROUND
A foundation composition can be applied to the face and other parts of the
body to even skin tone and texture and to hide pores imperfections, fine lines
and the like. A foundation composition is also applied to moisturize the skin,
to
2o balance the oil level of the skin, and to provide protection against the
adverse
effects of sunlight, wind, and other environmental factors.
Foundation, compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or
cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or anhydrous oil and wax
compositions. Emulsion-type foundations in the form of liquid are suitable in
that
2s they provide moisturizing effects by the water and water-soluble skin
treatment
agents incorporated. These liquid form foundations, however, are less
convenient to use' and carry for the consumer. On the other hand, solid
foundations packaged in compacts are suitable for use by the consumer,
however, are typically less efficient than liquid form foundations in terms of
3o moisturizing the skin and coverage of the skin.
Foundation compositions in the form of solid, yet water-in-oil emulsion
have been suggested. Such emulsion solid foundations can been filled in a wide
variety of packaging, including compacts, and is increasing popularity among
Asian consumers. References which disclose such foundation compositions are
3s JPA 2-88511, 3-261707, and USP 5,362,482. While such emulsion solid
foundations have been successful in meeting the drawbacks of conventional
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liquid form foundations and solid foundations to a certain degree, further
improvement is desired. For example, it is known that by increasing the level
of
water and components intended to moisturize the skin, the fresh and light feel
to
the skin may be deteriorated. In another example, it is known that, by
increasing
s components which provide smoothness and good spreadability upon application,
the appearance on the skin may become powdery. Further, while addressing the
desired improvements, the foundation product must be stable during a typical
shelf-life of these foundations, and capable of being manufactured at a
reasonable cost.
1o Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a make-up composition which
is solid in ambient temperature, provide improved moisturizing benefit to the
skin,
yet also provide good spreadability to the skin and leave the skin with a
fresh
and light feel.
15 SUMMARY
The present invention is directed to a water-in-oil emulsified make-up
composition comprising by weight:
(a) from about 25% to about 40% of a volatile silicone oil;
(b) from about 0.5% to about 8% of a non-volatile oil;
20 (c) from about 1 % to about 5% of a solid wax;
(d) from about 1 % to about 5% of a lipophilic surfactant having an HLB of
less
than about 8;
(e) from about 25% to about 35% of hydrophobically treated pigments; and
(f) water in an amount such that the total of the volatile silicone oil and
water
2s is at least about 50%;
which satisfies the need for a make-up composition which is solid in ambient
temperature, provide improved moisturizing benefit to the skin, yet also
provide
good spreadability to the skin and leave the skin with a fresh and light feel.
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present
3o invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of
the
present disclosure with the appended claims.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The following is a list of definitions for terms used herein.
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"Comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not
affect the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms
"consisting of and "consisting essentially of".
All percentages are by weight of total composition unless specifically
stated otherwise.
Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as
to
its availability as prior art to the claimed invention.
All ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated otherwise.
1o The present invention, in its product and process aspects, is described in
detail as follows.
VOLATILE SILICONE OlL
The composition of the present invention comprises a volatile silicone oil
by weight of the entire composition at from about 25% to about 40%, preferably
1s 30% to about 40%. The amount of the volatile silicone oil is controlled so
that
the total of the volatile silicone oil and water is more than about 50% of the
entire
composition. Without being bound by theory, the species and levels of the
volatile silicone oil herein is believed to provide improved refreshing and
light
feeling to the skin, without necessarily leaving a dried feeling to the skin.
2o The volatile silicone oil useful herein are selected from those having a
boiling point of from about 60 to about 260°C, preferably those having
from 2 to 7
silicon atoms.
The volatile silicone oils useful herein include polyaikyl or polyaryl
siloxanes with the following structure (I):
Rs3 Rs3 Rs3
Z8 i i-O~Si-O~~i-Ze
R93 . Rg3 ~93
wherein R°~ is independently alkyl or aryl, and p is an integer from
about 0 to
about 5. Ze represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains.
Preferably, R~ groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and
3o phenylmethyl, Ze groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy,
and
aryloxy. More preferably, R~ groups and ZB groups are methyl groups. The
preferred volatile silicone compounds are hexamethyldisiloxane,
octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiioxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.
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Commercially available volatile silicone compounds useful herein include
octamethyltrisiloxane with tradename SH200C-1 cs, decamethyltetrasiloxane with
tradename SH200C-1.5cs, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane with tradename
SH200C-2cs, all available from Dow Corning.
The volatile silicone oils useful herein also include a cyclic silicone
compound having the formula:
93
R
i-O
93 n
R
wherein R93 is independently alkyl or aryl, and n is an integer of from 3 to
7.
Preferably, R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl
to and phenylmethyl. More preferably, R93 groups are methyl groups. The
preferred
volatile silicone compounds are octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, tetradecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
Commercially available volatile silicone compounds useful herein include
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane with tradename SH244,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane with tradename DC245 and SH245, and
dodeamethylcyclohexasiloxane with tradename DC246; all available from Dow
Corning.
NON-VOLATILE OIL
The composition of the present invention comprises a non-volatile oil by
2o weight of the entire composition at from about 0.5% to about ~%, preferably
2%
to about 5%. The amount of the non-volatile oil is controlled so that the
ratio of
1 ) the total of the non-volatile oil, the solid wax, and the lipophilic
surfactant; and
2) the hydrophobically treated pigments is from about 1 : 7 to about 1 : 1.5,
preferably from about 1 : 5 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 : 5
to
2s about 1 : 2.5. Without being bound by theory, the species and levels of the
non-
volatile oil herein is believed to provide improved smoothness to the skin,
and
also alleviate the powdery look often found when pigments are included at a
high
level.
Non-volatile oils useful herein are, for example, tridecyl isononanoate,
3o isostearyl isostearate, isocetyl isosteatrate, isopropyl isostearate,
isodecyl
isonoanoate, cetyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl myristate,
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isocetyl myristate, isotridecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl
palmitate,
isocetyl palmitate, isodecyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate,
capryiiclcapric acid triglyceride, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, neopentyl
gtycoi
di(2-ethyl hexanoate), diisopropyl dimerate, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate,
s avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink
oil, olive oil,
rapeseed oil, eggyolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, pasanqua
oil,
castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cotton seed oil, perillic oil, soybean
oil, peanut
oil, tea seed oil, kaya oi., rice bran oil, china paulownia ol., Japanese
paulownia
oil, jojoba oil, rice germ oil, glycerol trioctanate, glycerol
triisopalmiatate,
1o trimethylolpropane triisostearate, isopropyl myristate, glycerol tri-2
ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, lanolin, liquid
lanolin,
liquid paraffin, squalane, vasetine, and mixtures thereof. Commercially
available
oils include, for example, tridecyl isononanoate with tradename Crodamoh'TN
available from Croda, Hexalan~'available from Nisshin Seiyu, and tocapheroi
is acetates available from Eisai.
Non-volatile oils useful herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes
with the following structure (I)
R~ R~ R~
Ze ~i--0~~~ i i-Ze
R~ R~ R93
(~)
wherein R~ is alkyl or aryl, and p is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000.
Z8
2o represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or
aryl
groups substituted on the siloxane chain (R°~) or at the ends of the
siloxane
chains Z8 can have any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains
fluid at
room temperature, is dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise
harmful
when applied to the skin, is compatible with the other components of the
25 composition, and is chemically stable under nomnal use and storage
conditions.
Suitable Ze groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and
aryloxy. The two R°3 groups on the silicon atom may represent the same
group
or difFerent groups. Preferably, the two R~ groups represent the same group.
Suitable R°9 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl,
methylphenyl and
3o phenylmethyl. The preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane,
polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, which
is also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. The polyalkylsiloxanes
that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone
* Trademark
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compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in
their Viscasil~ and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning
200 series.
Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example,
s polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from
the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow
Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
Non-volatile oils also useful herein are the various grades of mineral oils.
Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from
1o petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbons include paraffin oil,
mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene,
isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane, polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures
thereof.
Non-volatile oils particularly useful herein are those which have relatively
15 low viscosity. Such low viscosity non-volatile oils are believed to enhance
the
fresh and light feel when the composition is applied to the skin.
SOLID WAX
The composition of the present invention comprises a solid wax by weight
of the entire composition at from about 1 % to about 5%, preferably 2% to
about
20 4%. The amount of the solid wax is controlled so that the ratio of 1 ) the
total of
the non-volatile oil, the solid wax, and the lipophilic surfactant; and 2) the
hydrophobically treated pigments is from about 1 : 7 to about 1 : 1.5,
preferably
from about 1 : 5 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 : 5 to about 1 :
2.5.
Without being bound by theory, the species and levels of the solid wax herein
is
2s believed to provide consistency to the composition and coverage to the
skin,
while not negatively contributing to the spreadability upon application to the
skin,
and fresh and light feel of the skin.
The solid waxes useful herein are paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax,
ozokerite was, ceresin wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, eicosanyl behenate,
3o and mixtures thereof. A mixture of waxes is preferably used.
Commercially available solid waxes useful herein include: Candelilla wax
NC-1630 available from Noda wax, Ozokerite wax SP-1021 available from Strahl
& Pitsh, and Eicosanyl behenate available from Cas Chemical.
LIPOPHILIC SURFACTANT
3s The composition of the present invention comprises a lipophilic surfactant
by weight of the entire composition at from about 1 % to about 5%, preferably
1
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to about 3%. The lipophilic surfactant herein has an HLB value of less than
about 8.
The HLB value is a theoretical index value which describes the
hydrophilicify-hydrophobicity balance of a specific compound. Generally, it is
recognized that the HLB index ranges from 0 (very hydrophobic) to 40 (very
hydrophilic). The HLB value of the lipophilic surfactants may be found in
tables
and charts known in the art, or may be calculated with the following general
equation: HLB = 7 + (hydrophobic group values) + (hydrophilic group values).
The HLB and methods for calculating the HLB of a compound are explained in
io detail in °Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 1: Nonionic SurtactantsA,
pp 606-13, M.
J. Schick (Marcel Dekker Inc., New York, 1966).
The amount of the lipophilic surtactant is controlled so that the ratio of 1)
the total of the non volatile oil, the solid wax, and the lipophilic
surfactant; and 2)
the hydrophobically treated pigments is from about 1 : 7 to about 1 : 1.5,
i5 preferably from about 1 : 5 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 :
5 to
about 1 : 2.5. Without being bound by theory, the species and levels of the
lipophilic surfactant herein is believed to provide a stable water-in-oil
emulsion in
view of the other components of the present invention.
The lipophilic surtactant can be an ester type surtactant. Ester-type
2o surfactants useful herein include: sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan
diisostearate, sor6itan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan
dioleate,
sorbitan sesquioleate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl diiostearate,
glyceryl
sesquiisostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl dioleate, glyceryl
sesquioleate,
diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglycerin monoisostearyl
ether,
25 diglycerin diisostearyl ether, and mixtures thereof.
Commercially available esker-type surfactants are, for example, sorbitan
isostearate having a tradename *n'll~ 6 available from Croda, and sorbitan
sesquioleate with tradename Arlacel 83 available from Kao Atras.
The lipophilic surtactant can be a silicone-type surtactant. Silicone-type
3o surfactants useful herein are (i), (ii), as shown below, and mixtures
thereof.
(i) dimethicone copolyols having the structure:
* Trademark
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CH3
I
(Chi3)3510 -~ SI(CH3)20 X SI--O SI(CH3)3
I
CsHs
I
O
Y
~C2H40)a~C3H60)b H
wherein x is an integer from 5 to 100, y is an integer from 1 to 50, a is zero
or
greater, b is zero or greater, the average sum of a+b being 1-100.
(ii) dimethicone copolyols having the structure:
i H3 ICH3 i H3
O-f ~~+r0~-f C2Rt.0~-f CH2)3 i - O i - O i '-fC~)s~~~.~-f ~~~ O-R
CH3 CH3 m CH3
wherein R is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, methyl, and
combinations thereof, m is an integer from 5 to 100, x is independently zero
or
greater, y is independently zero or greater, the sum of x+y being 1-100.
to Commercially available silicone-type surfactants are, for example,
DC5225C, BY22-012, BY22-008, SH3746M, SH3771 M, SH3772M, SH3773M,
SH3775M, SH3748, SH3749, and DC5200, all available from Dow Corning.
In a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic surfactant is a mixture of at least
one ester-type surfactant and at least one silicone-type surfactant to provide
a
is stable emulsion for the other essential components of the present
invention.
HYDROPHOBICALLY TREATED PIGMENTS
The composition of the present invention comprises a hydrophobically
treated pigment by weight of the entire composition at from about 25% to about
35%, preferably from about 25% to about 30%. The amount of the
2o hydrophobically treated pigment is controlled so that the ratio of 1 ) the
total of
the non-volatile oil, the solid wax, and the lipophilic surfactant; and 2) the
hydrophobically treated pigments is from about 1 : 7 to about 1 : 1.5,
preferably
from about 1 : 5 to about 1 : 2, more preferably from about 1 : 5 to about 1 :
2.5.
Without being bound by theory, the species and levels of the hydrophobically
2s treated pigment herein is believed to provide good wear performance, and is
stable in the composition as being stable in the oily continuous phase.
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The hydrophobically treated pigments are selected depending on the
desired characteristic of the product, for example, shade, coverage, UV
protection benefit, and various skin feel.
The base material useful for the hydrophobically treated pigments herein
are clay mineral powders such as talc, mica, sericite, silica, magnesium
silicate,
synthetic fluorphlogopite, calcium silicate, aluminum silicate, bentonite and
montomorilonite; pearl pigments such as alumina, barium sulfate, calcium
secondary phosphate, calcium carbonate, titanium oxide, finely divided
titanium
oxide, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxy apatite, iron oxide, iron titate,
to ultramarine blue, Prussian blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt
oxide, cobalt titanate, titanium oxide coated mica; organic powders such as
polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl metharylate resin, cellulose, 12-
nylon, 6-nylon, styrene-acrylic acid copolymers, poly proprylene, vinyl
chloride
polymer, tetrafluoroethylene polymer, boron nitride, fish scale guanine, laked
tar
color dyes, and laked natural color dyes. Such base material are treated with
a
hydrophobical treatment agent, including: silicone such as Methicone,
Dimethicone and perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty material such as stearic acid;
metal
soap such as aluminium dimyristate; aluminium hydrogenated tallow glutamate,
hydrogenated lecithin, lauroyl lysine, aluminium salt of perfluoroalkyl
phosphate,
2o and mixtures thereof.
A certain percentage of spherical pigments can be used. In a preferred
embodiment, the hydrophobically treated pigments are also selected depending
on the oil absorbing capability of the pigments. In one preferred embodiment,
pigments having high oil absorbing capability and those having low oil
absorbing
2s capability are combined.
WATE R
The composition of the present invention comprises water in an amount
such that the total of the volatile silicone oil and water is more than about
50% of
the entire composition, preferably from about 15% to about 25% by weight of
the
3o entire composition.
Without being bound by theory, the species and levels of water herein is
believed to provide improved refreshing and light feeling to the skin, without
necessarily leaving a dried feeling to the skin. Further, this amount of water
allows the inclusion of water-soluble skin treatment agents such as
niacinamide.
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In the present invention, deionized water is typically used. Water from
natural sources including mineral rations can also be used, depending on the
desired characteristic of the product.
SKIN TREATMENT AGENT
s The composition of the present invention may further comprise a skin
treatment agent by weight of the entire composition at from about 0.1 % to
about
10%, preferably from about 1 % to about 5%.
Skin treatment agents useful herein are niacinamide, panthenol, and
mixtures thereof. Niacinamide is particularly preferred in that, when used in
a
io pharmaceutically effective amount, is capable of reducing or alleviating
the
intensity of chronical spots. Niacinamide is suitably incorporated in the
composition by first dissolving in water. Niacinamide and panthenol are
commercially available, for example, by Roche.
HUMECTANT
is The composition of the present invention may further comprise a
humectant by weight of the entire composition at from about 1% to about 15%,
preferably 2% to about 7%.
The humectants herein are selected from the group consisting of
polyhydric alcohols, water soluble alkoxylated nonionic polymers, and mixtures
2o thereof.
Polyhydric alcohols useful herein include glycerin,, propylene glycol, 1,3-
butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, sodium hyaluronate, and
mixtures
thereof.
Commercially available humectants herein include: glycerin available from
2s Asahi Denka; propylene glycol with tradename LEXOL~ PG-8651855 available
from Inolex, 1,2-PROPYLENE GLYCOL USP available from BASF; 1,3-butylene
glycol available from Daisel Kagaku Kogyo; dipropylene glycol with the same
tradename available from BASF; diglycerin with tradename DIGLYCEROL
available from Solvay GmbH; sodium hyaluronate with tradenames ACTIMOIST*
0 ~ available from Active Organics, AVIAN SODIUM HYALURONATE~ series
available from Intergen, HYALURONIC ACID Nay available from Ichimaru
Pharcos.
ADDITIONAL COMPONENTS
The composition of the present invention may include other additional
ss components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired
characteristics of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the
* Trademark
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composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them
with additional usage benefits. Such additional components generally are used
individually at levels of no more than about 5% by weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention may further contain a nonvolatile
dispersed silicone usually referred to as silicone gum. The term "silicone
gum",
as used herein, means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at
25°C
of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 mPa~s. Silicone gums are believed to
provide wearability improvement such as long-lasting effect. The "silicone
gums"
will typically have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000,
generally
io between about 200,000 and about 1,000,000. Specific examples include
polydimethylsiloxane, poiy(dimethylsiioxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,
poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and
mixtures thereof. Commercially available silicone gums are described in
General
Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets as SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE
~5 76.
The composition of the present invention may further contain a silicone
resin, which are highly crosslinked polymeric slloxane systems. Silicone
resins
are believed to enhance spreadability and improve the feel to the skin. The
crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of tri-functional and
tetra-
2o functional silanes with mono-functional or di-functional, or both, silanes
during
manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the
degree of
crosslinkIng that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary
according to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin.
In
general, silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and
2s tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a sufficient level of
crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, ftlm are considered
to be
silicone resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of
the
level of crosslinking in a particular silicone material. Silicone materials
which
have at least about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be
silicone
3o resins herein. Preferably, the ratio of oxygenailicon atoms Is at least
about
1.2:1Ø Silanes used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-
,
dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyi-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and
methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted
silanes being most commonly utilized. Prefen-ed are crosslinked silicone
3s powders with tradenames Trefi! E-505C, Trefil~E-506C, and 9506 Powder;
suspensions of silicone elastomer powders with tradenames BY29-119 and
11
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BY29-722; and silicone compound emulsions with tradenames SH5500,
SC5570, and SM 5571; all available from Dow Coming.
Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such as the
material given the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is
s commercially available as TospearlT''" from Toshiba Silicones.
Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be
identified according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those
skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone
is
described according to the presence of various siloxane monomer units which
io make up the silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the mono-functional
unit
(CH3)~Si0o,5; D denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)ZSiO; T denotes the
trifunctional unit (CH3)SiO,.s; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra functional
unit
Si02. Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T, and Q' denote substituents
other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each occurrence.
Typical
is alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino,
hydroxyl, etc.
The molar ratios of the various units, either in terms of subscripts to the
symbols
indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an
average
thereof, or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular
weight,
complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system.
2o Higher relative molar amounts of T, Q, T andlor Q' to D, D', M andlor or M'
in a
silicone resin is indicative of higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed
before,
however, the overall level of crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen
to
silicon ratio.
The silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ,
25 MQ and MDTQ resins. Thus, the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.
Especially preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:7.0
to
about 1.5:1.0 and the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000
to about 10,000. Commercially available MQ resins are, for example, trimethyi
siloxy silicate with tradename BY11-018 available from Dow Coming.
3o The composition of the present invention may further contain a water-
soluble polymer. ft is believed that water soluble polymers provide long-
lasting
effect. Useful water-soluble polymers include sodium carboxymethyl cellulose,
polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, xanthan gum, agar, pulleran,
bentonite,
and mixtures thereof. Commercially available water soluble polymers include
the
35 Carbopol~series available from B. F. Goodrich Company, and PVP K-30
available from G.A.F. Chemicals.
12
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Other components which can be formulated into the compositions of the
present invention are; preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben,
propyl paraben, imidazolidinyl area, and EDTA and its salts, perfumes,
ultraviolet
and infrared screening and absorbing agents, and others.
THE COMPOSITION
The composition of the present invention may be made by a method well
known in the art. In a suitable process, the composition is made by the steps
of:
1 ) heating and dissolving the volatile silicone oil, non-volatile oil, solid
wax,
lipophilic surfactant, and any other hydrophobic material having a high
to melting point to about 80-85°C in a sealed tank, to make a
lipophilic
mixture;
2) adding the hydrophobically treated pigments into such liphophilic mixture
and dispersing with a homogenizer at about 75-80°C;
3) separate from 1 ) and 2), heating and dissolving in water, skin treatment
agents, humectants, when present, and any other hydrophilic material to
about 75-80°C;
4) adding the product of step 2) to the product of step 3) to effect an
emulsification; and
5) cooling the obtained emulsion to a temperature of about 60-80°C.
2o The obtained composition, which is still fluid at such temperature, is
filled in an
air-tight container and allowed to cool to room temperature typically using a
cooling unit. The obtained composition is solid at ambient temperature, and
thus
can be poured into such container and left to solidify. The air-tight
container is
typically in a package form of a compact.
The obtained composition preferably has a melting point of less than
about 50°C, when measured by "General Tests, Melting Point Method 2" as
stated in "The Japanese Standard of Cosmetic Ingredients". Without being
bound by theory, it is believed that this relatively low melting point of the
preferred embodiment composition of the present invention provides the
3o improved spreadability and improved fresh and light feeling to the skin. In
another preferred embodiment, the DSC thermogram of the composition of the
present invention shows a relatively small enthalpy required for melting the
composition. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that such small
enthalpy leads to less energy required for the composition to be applied to
the
skin, thereby, also contributing to the improved spreadability and improved
fresh
and light feeling to the skin.
13
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EXAMPLES
The following examples further describe and demonstrate the preferred
embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given
solely for the purpose of illustration, and are not to be construed as
limitations of
the present invention since many variations thereof are possible without
s departing from its spirit and scope.
EXAMPLES 1-5
The following make-up compositions are formed by the process described
herein:
NO. Component Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5
1 Cyclomethicone *1 35.9 30.9532.95 33.3 32.8
2 Tridecyl isononanoate 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
*2
3 Tocopherol acetate *3 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
4 Candelilla wax *4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.3
Ozokerite wax *5 2.2 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.0
6 Eicosanyl Behenate *6 0.4 0.4 0.4 2.5
7 Sorbitan isostearate *7 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.0 1.0
8 Dimethicone copolyol *8 0.5 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
9 Crosslinked silicone powder 2.0
*9
Trimethyl siloxy silicate 1.0
*10
11 Hydrophobically Treated 28.75 30.0028.00 30.00 25.00
Pigments *11
12 Deionized water 20 22 20 20 22
13 Niacinamide *12 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 5.0
14 Panthenol *13 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.5
Preservative 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
16 1,3 butylene glycol *14 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
17 Glycerin *15 5.0
18 Polyvinylpyrrolidone *16 0.5
Definitions of Components
14
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WO 01/91704 PCT/US00/15164
*1 Cyclomethicone: SH245 available from Dow Coming
*2 Tridecyl isononanoate : Crodamol TN available from Croda
*3 Tocopheryl Acetate : DL-a-Tocopheryl Acetate available from Eisai
*4 Candelilla wax : Candelilla wax NC-1630 available from Noda wax
*5 Ozokerite wax : Ozokerite wax SP-1021 available from Strahl & Pitsh
*6 Eicosanyl Behenate : Eicosanyl Behenate available from Cas Chemical
*7 Sorbitan isostearate : Crill 6 available from Croda
*8 Dimethicone copolyol : DC5225C available from Dow Coming
*9 Crosslinked silicone powder: Torayfil E-506C available from Dow Coming
*10 Trimethylsiloxy silicate: BY11-018 available from Dow Corning
*11 Hydrophobicaily treated pigments
Component Level *Oil AbsorbencySupplier
(%) level (mUg)
Methicone Treated Titanium0 - 24.4 Miyoshi Kasei
Dioxide and Taic 70
Methicone Treated Mica 15 - 58.5 Miyoshi Kasei
85
Dimethicone and Stearic 0 - 23.0 Miyoshi KaseI
Acid 25
Treated Micro Titanium
Dioxide
Dimethicone Treated Silica5 - 130.4 Miyoshi Kasei
35
Methicone Treated Synthetic0 - Topy Kougyou
Mica (synthetic fluorphlogopite)35
Methicone Treated Iron 0 - Daito Kasei
Oxides 70
* Test Method for Oil Absorvency Level : JIS K5101 No.21
*12 Niacinamide : Niacinamide available from Roche
*13 Panthenol : DL-Panthenol available from Roche
*14 1,3 Butylene Glycol : 1,3 Butytene Glycol available from Daisel
Kagakukougyou
*15 Glycerine : Glycerine USP available from Asahi Denka
*16 Polyvinylpyrrolidone: PVP K-30 available from GAF Chemicals
Method of Preparation
* Trademark 15
CA 02409616 2002-11-13
WO 01/91704 PCT/US00/15164
The make-up compositions of Examples 1 - 5 are prepared as follows:
component numbers 1 through 10, as present, are heated to dissolve at
82°C in
a sealed tank, followed by adding component number 11, and the mixture is
dispersed at 80°C using a homogenizer to make a lipophilic mixture.
Separately,
s a mixture of component numbers 12 through 18, as present, are heated to
dissolve at 80°C and added to the lipophilic mixture to effect an
emulsification.
The obtained emulsion is adjusted to a temperature of 70°C.
Finally, the
emulsion is filled in an air-tight container and allowed to cool to room
temperature
using a cooling unit.
to These embodiments represented by the previous examples have many
advantages. For example, they can provide improved moisturizing benefit to the
skin, yet also provide good spreadability to the skin and leave the skin with
a
fresh and light feel.
16
