Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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Products Comprising an Applicator and a Lipid and Aqueous Phase
Field of the Invention
This invention concerns products for cleansing and other applications, which
products
comprise an applicator such as a puff (pouf), pad, sponge, cotton ball, swab,
brush,
glove, mitt or bar, to which a lipid and aqueous phase have been applied. The
invention
further concerns the manufacture and use of such products.
Background of the Invention
A plurality of applicators for delivering commodities to a surface have been
developed,
such applicators being of varied nature, in as well presentation as material
selection,
e.g. applicators that are resilient or non-resilient, or that are re-usable or
disposable.
Such applicators have been used to apply to a surface ingredients in the form
of creams,
pastes, gels, liquids, powders and the like. In particular such applicators
have been used
to apply topical preparations to the shin such as cosmetic, dermatological and
the lilce
products. Applicators have been used with a separate product supply or have
been
impregnated or coated with a measured quantity of product.
One particular type of applicators are wipes which have become an important
product
category that has found a wide variety of applications for adults and babies.
Examples
include face or body cleansing wipes, wipes for skin treatment, and skin
conditioning
wipes. So-called wet wipes have become successful as products particularly
suited for
these applications.
Developments in the wipe area were focused on the wipe itself, as well as on
the wipe
material and on the lotions applied thereto. Lotions have been developed which
offered
slcincare benefits in addition to the basic cleansing properties of the wipe.
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However, these approaches still leave room for improvement. Firstly, only a
small
portion of the lotion is released from the wipes during use. Thus a large
quantity of the
relatively expensive lotion is not delivered to the skin providing no benefit
to the
consumer and is wasted when the product is discarded after use. This also
prevents the
use of expensive but more effective ingredients. Secondly, from a formulation
point
there is an apparent contradiction in the optimization of cleansing
performance and
sluncare benefits in one single lotion since ingredients which are effective
in cleansing
usually are not compatible with efficient skin care agents.
Another important factor in cleansing is the fact that a number of soils are
water-
compatible and therefore more easily removed by water-based formulations,
whereas
others are lipid-compatible and therefore adequately removed by lipid or oil
based
formulations. A complete and effective removal of soils therefore requires the
presence
in or on a wipe of as well water as oil-based components.
This is in particular required in products for personal cleansing and in
particular in
products used for babies and infants. Inadequate cleaning not only results in
personal
discomfort but also gives rise to diaper rash and other infection related
phenomena. It
has been shown that the most effective way of preventing diaper rash is to
cleanse the
slcin thoroughly and to remove the microorganisms that have been identified as
causative. The source of these microorganisms is often the fecal deposits that
can
remain on a baby's slcin while wearing the diaper. Because fecal deposits
consist of
both water-soluble and oil-soluble matter, however, complete removal of fecal
deposits
from the diaper area requires both water-based and oil-based cleansing agents.
US-4,987,632 discloses a substantially dry-to-the-touch wiping article for use
in
cleaning soiled surfaces wherein moisture barriers cover the surface of the
sheet.
WO 99/13861 and US-6,153,208 disclose substantially dry personal cleansing
articles
wherein the substrate comprises multiple layers. US-6,280,757 concerns
cleansing
articles that are dry comprising a substrate having apertures of certain size
and
frequency.
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Whereas traditional applicator products have been based on the applicator
material
having one phase, the products of this invention concern the application of
two
distinctly different phases onto or into an applicator. Both phases differ in
terms of
physical properties and may be applied on various parts or portions of the
applicator.
This approach allows a combined optimal cleansing performance and superior
skincare
properties.
Summary of the Invention
This invention relates to products that comprise an applicator, other than a
porous or
absorbent sheet, for transferring ingredients to surfaces and in particular to
the skin,
whereto a lipid and an aqueous phase have been applied.
Preferably, the lipid phase is solid or semi-solid at ambient temperature and
more
preferably is present at the surface or at the surface portion of one or
several sides of
the applicator.
In particular said applicator is any three-dimensional substrate capable of
transferring
ingredients to a surface, in particular the user's skin. Examples of such
substrates are
puffs, pads, sponges, bars, brushes, cotton balls, gloves, mitts or cotton
tipped swabs.
The applicators may be made of a variety of materials which are structured
such that
they are capable of holding andlor absorbing a lipid and an aqueous phase. The
materials of which the applicators are made therefore may be porous or
absorbent in
nature. The materials in particular are polymeric and may be both from natural
and
non-natural origin.
In a further aspect there is provided a method of manufacturing a product as
described
herein, said method comprising applying to the applicator a lipid phase and an
aqueous
phase, either subsequently or simultaneously. In a preferred method of
manufacturing,
said applicator is first coated with a lipid phase and subsequently sprayed or
impregnated with an aqueous phase.
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In still a further aspect there is provided the use of a product as described
herein as a
cleansing tool, in particular in personal care applications.
In another aspect the invention concerns the use of a product as described
herein as an
applicator of active substances.
In still another aspect the invention provides the use of a product as
described herein as
a combined cleanser and applicator of active substances.
Detailed Description of the Invention
The applicator in the products according to this invention can be resilient or
non-
resilient. The applicator can be used as such or can have a suitable handle.
It can take
any tridimensional form that is suited for application to flat surfaces
including the skin.
The applicators can be of different size and take a variety of forms, e.g.
flat or not,
geometrically shaped or not, round which includes cylindrical, ellipsoidal,
spherical
and the like shapes, or angular shaped such as square or rectangular, which
includes
cubic or bar shapes, also with rounded edges or combinations of these shapes.
One or
more of the outer sides of the applicator may be made of different materials
having
different properties. For example one side may be soft while another side is
rougher.
The latter side can be abrasive, it can be used for rubbing or scouring. The
applicators
can be hard, soft, semi-soft, resilient or not, squeezable or not.
One type of embodiments are puffs (poufs), pads, brushes, gloves, mitts, swabs
or
cotton balls.
Another type of embodiments are sponges. Sponges comprise sponges as such,
foams
and felts, composed of synthetic and/or natural materials.
Still another type of embodiments are bars.
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For convenience of use, the applicators may have a suitable handle.
Embodiments of
such applicators have a pad, puff or sponge portion that preferably is
resilient and a
finger grip portion. One type of such applicators are those having a generally
T-shaped
configuration. Examples of such applicators comprise resilient discs with a
small
upstanding handle element.
The applicators can be made of materials which are capable of holding,
adsorbing or
absorbing a lipid and an aqueous phase. Preferably, the applicator material is
structured
such that it is porous or absorbent in nature. The latter can be due to the
chemical
structure of the applicator materials or their physical arrangement or both.
Examples of
particular physical arrangements are porous structures, or cellular or
microcellular
structures.
The applicators can be made of one type of material or from different
materials that can
be arranged in different manners along the applicator. Small portions of one
or more
materials of different or equal size may be incorporated into a matrix of the
same or
another material. Or the applicators can be multilayered such as a staclc of
layers or
concentric layers or they can be of one type of material. Applicator parts,
either or not
made of different materials can be linked together by gluing, sewing,
stitching or any
other technique known in the art.
In one type of embodiments the applicator comprises a core which is partially
or
completely wrapped in a layered material. The wrapping material may be the
same or
different from the material or materials used in the core.
The materials of which the applicators are made in particular are polymeric
and may be
both from natural and non-natural origin. There can be one or more polymeric
materials
that may be cross-linked or not. Optionally other non-polymeric materials such
as
binders, fillers, dyes and the like, may additionally be present.
The materials can be more or less inert or they can be decomposable, in
particular they
can be biodegradable. The materials may also be flushable. As used herein, by
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'flushable' is meant that the material will pass through at least 3 meters of
waste pipe
in two toilet flushes.
Examples of polymeric materials of which the applicators are composed are non-
natural polymers such as polyethylene, polypropylene, PET, polyamide,
polyvinyl
alcohol, polyurethane, and the like, and natural or natural-derived polymers
such as
cellulose, wood pulp and the like, and mixtures of such synthetic and natural
fibres or
materials.
Where the applicator is in the form of a puff (pouf) it can be composed of
spongy or
resin foamy materials, optionally wrapped in a suitable mono- or multilayered
material,
which can be made of a closed or an apertured material layer or film. In other
embodiments the puff is made of one or more layers of material that can be
bound or
glued together in the core of the puff.
Where the applicator is in the form of a bar it may be composed of lipid phase
material
in solid state, optionally in admixture with other ingredients. Preferably,
such
embodiments are wrapped in a suitable layered wrapping material which may hold
the
aqueous phase or the wax dispersion while the other phase is kept inside the
bar as
depot in the core.
The bar may be apertured, having small cavities which may hold particular
ingredients,
also including the aqueous phase which thus is entrapped in the bar.
Applicators in the form of bars may be designed such that the bar slowly
decomposes
or dissolves during use e.g. by body heat or by any other external factor. In
particular,
the bar may be composed of solid lipid phase material which decomposes or
dissolves
during use, e.g. due to body heat.
If layered materials are used, these materials in themselves may be mono or
multi-
layered, woven or non-woven. They can be made of one or of several materials.
Particularly preferred layered materials are made of non-woven materials that
have a
web structure of fibrous or filamentous nature, in which the fibres or
filaments are
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distributed randomly or with a certain degree of orientation, the former being
obtainable by air-laying or certain wet-laying processes, the latter in other
wet-laying or
in carding processes. The fibres or filaments can be natural, for example wood
pulp,
wool cotton, linen and the like, or synthetic, for example polyvinyls,
polyesters,
polyolefins, polyamides and the lilce.
One type of non-woven materials is paper based, which are made almost
exclusively of
cellulose-based fibres. Where high wet strength or firmness of the non-woven
web is
desired, binding materials can be added.. Softness can be increased by adding
additives.
In another type of non-wovens, the web is made mainly of staple fibre, e.g.
based on
cotton, wool, linen and the like.
Usually, non-woven materials for use in the applicators of the invention are
made of
cellulose fibres, synthetic fibres such as polyester or polypropylene, or
mixtures thereof
Webs of increased strength can be obtained by using the so-called spunlace or
hydro-
entanglement technique and do not contain binding material.
One type of non-woven materials are made of a mixture of pulp and staple fibre
and are
available with binding materials, in particular those mentioned above, or
without
binding materials. In the latter instance the non-woven is preferably made by
the hydro-
entanglement procedure.
The Two Phases
In the products according to this invention the applicator material is
contacted with a
lipid and an aqueous phase. In some embodiments the applicator is contacted
with a
third phase which may be a polymeric phase.
The phases may be applied to the whole applicator, i.e. continuously, or to
parts of the
applicator, i.e. discontinuously. One phase may be applied continuously while
the other
is applied discontinuously. They can be applied at the surface or in the
internal of the
applicator. If applied at the surface, one or both phases can be present at
one side or at
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several sides of the applicator, or one phase may be present at one side while
the other
phase is present at another side of the applicator.
In the instance where a phase or both phases are applied discontinuously, they
are
present at certain areas, in particular at one or more areas of the
applicator. In that
instance, the phase or phases may be present as one or more forms or shapes.
For
example they can be present as dots or spots, lines or stripes, as geometrical
figures
such as squares, rectangles, circles and the like, as symbols such as letters,
text, logos,
figures and the like, or as trademark signs, or any other such forms, or a
combination
thereof. The forms or shapes may be present over the entirety of the
applicator or
grouped in one or more areas, for example in a corner.
In a particular embodiment, one phase is applied on one or on several sides of
the
applicator in the form of stripes, dots or other forms covering the entire
surface or only
a part of the surface of the applicator. The aqueous phase is applied to the
applicator
either on the entire surface of the applicator or on certain areas. This may
be done in a
second step preferably after the application of the lipid phase or
simultaneously in a
one step operation.
In a preferred embodiment, both phases are applied subsequently to the
applicator,
more preferably first the lipid phase and subsequently the aqueous phase.
Different parts of the applicator may contain different aqueous and/or lipid
phases. For
example the applicator may at one side contain one lipid phase and at another
side
another lipid phase. Or in other embodiments, the applicator at one side may
contain
the lipid phase while at the other side contains aqueous phase.
Or the applicator may be composed of two or more parts that are linked
together, each
part having been treated with a different lipid phase. This may result for
example in
applicator that at one portion has cleansing capacity and at an other portion
has caring
capacity.
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Where the applicator is in the form of a puff, a pad or a sponge it may be
coated with
lipid phase, which preferably is solid, or the puff may have a lipid phase,
which may be
liquid, semi-liquid or solid, deposed at the inner portion of the applicator.
If deposed at
the inner portion, the lipid phase may be distributed homogeneously, meaning
that is
distributed over the whole inside in more or less equal quantities, or
inhomogeneously.
Where the applicator is in the form of a bar or sponge, it can be wrapped into
a sheet of
material to which a lipid phase may be applied. Furthermore, the bar or sponge
material
itself may contain the same or different lipid phase(s). The lipid phase at
the outside
preferably is solid while at the inside can be solid, semi-solid or liquid.
The lipid phase
at the inner portion of the applicator may have been deposited or the
applicator may
have been impregnated with lipid phase material in liquid form, which
afterwards may
solidify. This type of applicators further contains the aqueous phase which
may be at
the surface layer or at the inside.
Where the applicator is in the form of a puff the lipid phase may have been
applied in a
powdery form.
Where the applicator is in the form of a bar, it may be apertured having a
plurality of
cavities that may contain aqueous phase.
Where the applicator is in the form of a sponge it may be made of a
decomposable
material such as a biodegradable material. For example it can be made of
dissolvable
cellulose, which can be mixed with lipid phase when the cellulose is still in
a liquid
state during the production process.
The lipid phase
The lipid phase that is applied to the applicator is such or formulated such
that it is
insoluble or essentially insoluble in the aqueous phase. However, in some
embodiments the two phases may be mixable or soluble into each other to a
limited
extend. The lipid or aqueous phase should be such or should be formulated such
that
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once on the sheet and for the time prior to usage of the sheet product by the
consumer
they do not form one phase or a continuous phase.
The lipid phase is hydrophobic and is composed of materials that are generally
insoluble in water such as oils or fats, or waxes.The lipid phase can be
liquid, semi-
solid or solid at ambient temperature. The lipid phase can be semi-solid, the
latter term
having the standard meaning used in the art.
It can be amorphous, semi-crystalline or crystalline, or it can take the form
of a cream
or waxy composition.
Semi-solidness can occur when the lipid phase is in a transition stage between
solid
state and liquid state such as in a melting process, but can also be due to
increased
viscosity of the material that makes up the lipid phase. Semi-solidness is
present in
materials having a waxy, creamy, pasty, gelly or similar consistency. Semi-
solidness in
particular occurs with materials that have no sharp melting point, i.e.
materials that
have a melting range. It is also present in glass-like materials, e.g. in
polymers that
occur as in a glass-like state.
In particular the lipid phase has a melting point or a melting range above
room
temperature, in particular above 25 °C, for example in the range of 25
to 100°C, in
particular in the range of 30 to 75°C, more in particular of 30 to
45°C, preferably in the
range of 32 and 40°C. More preferably the melting temperature or
melting range is
above human body temperature. Most preferably the melting temperature or
melting
range approximates or is equal to human body temperature.
In some embodiments of this invention the lipid phase may have a relatively
higher
melting point or range. The melting point or range may for example be higher
than
body temperature, e.g. higher than 40 °C, or higher than 45 °C.
Upon application of
such applicators, a more intense interaction between the two phases may be
required, or
the application of higher temperatures, to promote the interaction. Tn the
latter instance
the consumer may, for example, be required to contact the product first with
hot water
and then to apply it. In the former instance the aqueous phase may contain
agents that
promote a stronger interaction with the lipid phase.
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As used herein the term 'melting range' refers to a temperature range that
starts from
the temperature at which a substance or composition loses its solid
consistency up to
the temperature where it becomes completely liquid. A melting range is
considered to
be within a defined temperature range when it overlaps with that defined
temperature
range, or should be considered to be above a specified temperature when the
range is
above said temperature.
As used herein 'ambient temperature' refers to a temperature that is in the
range of
about 20 to about 25 °C.
The lipid phase can change to another state after application to the
applicator or when
being applied to the applicator during storage, or upon usage by the consumer.
The
lipid phase may be applied to the applicator as a liquid where after it
becomes semi-
solid or solid. Or the lipid phase may become semi-solid or liquid during
usage by the
consumer. This change of state may be induced by physical factors such as
temperature
or pressure but may also be induced by chemical factors such as particular
components
that cause a polymerization reaction or by a photochemical reaction.
In certain embodiments, the lipid phase may be applied as two separate phases
which
become mixed during application on to the applicator, whereupon certain
components
in each phase become mixed and start to interact, e.g. in a polymerization
reaction thus
changing the state of the lipid phase from liquid to semi-solid or solid.
Particularly preferred are the compositions of the lipid phase which are solid
at room
temperature and which have a penetration value of 0.2 - 4 mm (measured with:
Petrotester PNR 10, Milcrolconus, 5 sec., temp 20 °C).
The water content of the lipid phase is low, in particular less than 10 %,
preferably less
than 6 %, more preferably less than 3 %. In a particular embodiment the lipid
phase is
water free, and will be such that it is not decomposed by the aqueous phase.
As used
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herein, 'water free' means that the phase is composed of materials of low
water content
to which no water has been added.
The lipid phase may comprise one or more components selected from oils or
fats, or
waxes. It may further contain other components. As used herein oils or fats
refer to the
same type of materials, oils being liquid at ambient temperature and fats
being solid or
semi solid at ambient temperature. The lipid phase may also comprise mixtures
of
waxes and fats and/or oils.
In a preferred embodiment, the lipid phase is a wax-based composition, wherein
the
term 'wax' is as specified hereinafter.
In particular embodiments, multiple Iipid phases, i.e. lipid phases of
different
composition, may be applied to the applicator. For example one type of lipid
phase is
applied to one side of the applicator while another type is applied to the
other. Each of
these lipid phases may or may not contain one or more of the ingredients
mentioned
hereinafter, for example one or more ingredients selected from the active
ingredients,
the dyes, emulsifiers, and other ingredients mentioned hereinafter. In case of
various
dyes, mufti-colored patterns may exist, for example, each lipid phase rnay
have a
different color or may be uncolored.
The different lipid phases may be applied differently at each side of the
applicator. For
example one side may completely be covered while at the other side the lipid
phase is
applied in a pattern, e.g. as stripes.
Oils and fats
The lipid phase may contain oils, fats or mixtures of fats with oils and/or
with oily
components. The resulting mixture of which the lipid phase is composed should
preferably be selected such that the melting point or melting range of the
lipid phase is
as mentioned above, in particular is above ambient temperature, more in
particular is in
the range of 32 °C to 40 °C.
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Oils or fats which can be used in the lipid phase comprise natural oils or
fats, or natural
oil or fat derivatives, in particular of vegetable origin. Examples are almond
oil,
soybean oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, corn oil, kernel oil, canola oil,
borage oil,
evening primrose oil, grapeseed oil, wheat germ oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil,
sesame oil,
walnut oil, linseed oil, palm oil, olive oil, macadamia oil, castor oil,
rapeseed oil,
peanut oil, coconut oil, and turnip seed oil, and the hardened derivatives
thereof. The
latter are obtained by hydrogenation of fats or oils. Preferred are hardened
oils or fats
from vegetal origin, e.g. hardened castor oil, peanut oil, soya oil, turnip
seed oil, cotton
seed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, corn
oil, olive oil,
sesame oil, cocoa butter, rhea butter and coconut oil.
Said hardened fats or oils have the additional advantage of increasing the
consistency
of the lipid phase compositions.
The lipid phase may further comprise fatty components isolated from these
natural oils,
i.e. pure triglycerides or mixtures thereof, or the latter components having
been
prepared chemically. These so-called trigycerides (or triacyl glycerines) are
esters of
glycerines with fatty acids or fatty acid mixtures, for example so called
technical
mixtures obtained by hydrolysis from fractions of oils or fats, or by
fractioning fatty
acid mixtures after hydrolysis. The triglycerides may also be obtained
chemically by
synthesis.
The fatty acids in said triglycerides may be saturated or unsaturated,
straight or branch
chained, substituted or unsubstituted. Preferred triglycerides are those
glycerines esters
derived from fatty acids, either saturated or unsaturated, having from 10 to
60, in
particular from 12 to 36, more particularly from 12 to 24, preferably from 16
to 20
carbon atoms. Preferred such fatty acids are, for example, palmitic, palmic,
oleic,
lauric, myristic, stearic, hydroxystearic, behenic acid, or mixtures thereof.
Within this
group the triglycerides derived from saturated fatty acids are of particular
interest.
Of specific interest are glyceryl tristearate, also referred to as stearin,
glycerine
tribehenate, glycerine tripalmitate, glycerine trilaurate, glycerine
trioleate, glycerine
trimyristate.
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The lipid phase may also contain mono- or diglycerides, optionally in a
mixture with
the fats and oils mentioned herein, in particular with triglycerides. The mono-
or
diglycerides for use in the lipid phase are derived from saturated or
unsaturated, linear
or branch chained, substituted or unsubstituted fatty acids or fatty acid
mixtures. Also
in this instance the melting point or melting range of the lipid phase
preferably is as
mentioned above, in particular is above ambient temperature, more in
particular is in
the range of 32 °C to 40 °C. Particular mono- or diglycerides
are mono- or dl-C12-24
fatty acid glycerides, specifically mono- or di-C16-2o fatty acid glycerides,
for example
glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate. Mixtures of mono-, di- and,
optionally,
triglycerides can be derived from fractions of fatty acids. An example of such
mixture
for use as a component of the lipid phase is a mixture of Cla-is mono-, di-
and
triglycerides.
In a preferred embodiment according to the present invention the lipid phase
contains
one or more fatty acid glycerides selected from the mono-, di- or triesters
from
glycerine, or a mixture thereof.
The glycerides can be present in various amounts, it is typically present in
an amount of
up to 60% or in certain embodiments up to 70 %, or up to 80 % (w/w), relative
to the
total quantity of the lipid phase.
In other embodiments, in particular those containing dialkyl(ene)ethers or -
carbonates,
dicarboxylic acids or hydroxy fatty alcohols, the amount of said fatty ester
glycerides
will be less than 50 % and more preferably less than 40 % (w/w), relative to
the total
quantity of the lipid phase.
In a particular aspect of this invention there are provided products as
specified herein
wherein the lipid phase consists essentially of one or more fatty acid
glycerides selected
from the mono-, di- or triesters from glycerine, or mixtures thereof. The
glyceride can
be present in various amounts, e.g. the amounts mentioned hereinabove or
hereinafter.
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Mixed esters as well as mixtures of mono-, di- and triglycerides are of
particular
interest because of their low propensity to crystallize and their capacity to
improve the
consistency of the formulation making up the lipid phase.
The lipid phase may also comprise alkyl esters of fatty acids, wherein the
alkyl group
has from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The
fatty acids
in said alkyl esters in particular are C12-3o fatty acids, more in particular
C12-2o fatty
acids. The alkyl groups in said esters preferably are derived from fatty
alcohols as well
as of mixtures thereof, which, for example, are obtained by high pressure
hydrogenation of technical mixtures of the methyl esters derived from fats or
oils.
Preferred are the alkyl esters of C16-2~. fatty acids, more preferably from
C16-18 fatty
acids, and Cl_3o fatty alcohols, preferably C8_24 fatty alcohols, more
preferably C12-zo
fatty alcohols.
Of particular interest in this regard are, e.g. stearyl stearate, palmityl
stearate, stearyl
behenate, cetyl stearate, cetyl behenate, cetyl palmitate, cetearyl behenate,
behenyl
behenate, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl octanoate, myristyl myristate, myristyl
isostearate,
myristyl oleate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl
oleate,
isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl
isostearate,
isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate,
oleyl palmitate,
oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl
erucate, behenyl
isostearate, behenyl oleate, erucyl isostearate.
Of further interest are esters of linear C6-CaZ-fatty acids with branched
alcohols, in
particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of branched C6-C22-fatty acids with linear
alcohols,
esters of Cl$-C38-allcylhydroxycarbonic acids with linear or branched C6-C22-
fatty
alcohols, esters of linear andlor branched fatty acids with poly-alcohols
(e.g. propylene
glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, as well as esters
of C6-C2a-
fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carbonic acids, in
particular
benzoic acid, esters of CZ-C12-dicarbonic acids with linear or branched Cl-C22
-alcohols
(e.g. dioctyl malate) or C2-Clo-polyoles having 2 to 6 hydroxy groups.
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Preferred fats comprise the triglycerides, in particular those derived from
fatty acids
having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, in particular those having from
about
12 to about 20 carbon atoms, more in particular those having from about 16 to
about 20
carbon atoms. These fatty acids may be unsaturated or, which is preferred,
saturated.
Particularly preferred are glycerides derived from oleic, stearic, myristic or
lauric acid,
or from fatty acid mixtures derived from natural oils such as coco-acids.
Examples of
preferred fats are cocoglycerides, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate, and
the like.
Further preferred fats comprise hydrogenated natural oils such as hydrogenated
castor
oil, hydrogenated palm oil and the like.
The lipid phase may also comprise oily components, i.e. non water-mixable
components that are liquid at 20 °C. These can be e.g. glycerides,
hydrocarbons, silicon
oils, ester oils and the like, as well as mixtures thereof. The total quantity
of these oily
components in the total composition of the lipid phase preferably will be such
that the
lipid phase is solid at room temperature, or that it has a melting point or
range that is as
specified hereinabove. The oily components will typically be present in
quantities of
less than 40 % (w/w), in particular less than 20 % (w/w), or further in
particular
1- 15 % (w/w), more in particular from 2 - 10 % (w/w) relative to the total
weight of
the lipid phase.
The oily components can be any of the oils mentioned hereinabove as 'oils and
fats',
more in particular the mono-, di- and triglycerides mentioned hereinabove,
that are
liquid at 20 °C. The oily components can further be fatty acids and
fatty alcohols,
described in this specification, that are liquid at 20 °C.
Further oily components which can be used in the lipid phase comprise silicone
oils,
mineral and paraffin oils and synthetic oils, either aliphatic or aromatic, as
well as
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mixtures thereof. Examples of such oils are squalane, squalene, isohexadecane,
isoeicosane, polydecene, and also oils of the group of diallcylcyclohexanes.
The lipid phase may further contain silicone oils, volatile or not, such as,
for example,
cyclic silicones, dialkyl- or alkylarylsiloxanes, e.g., cyclomethicone,
dimethyl
polysiloxane (dimethicone) and methylphenyl polysiloxane, as well as the
alkoxylated
and quaternized derivatives thereof. Appropriate non-volatile silicone oils
are e.g.
longer chain polyalkylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, and also
polyethersiloxane-
copolymers.
The total amount of fats or oils, or of mixtures of fats and oils and/or oily
components
in the lipid phase in particular is at least 50 %, preferably at least 70 %,
more preferably
at least 90 %, wlw of the total amount of components making up the lipid
phase.
In a particular aspect of this invention there are provided products as
specified herein
wherein the lipid phase essentially consists of fats or oils, or of mixtures
of fats and oils
and/or oily components, in particular those specified in this specification.
The fats, oils
and oily components can be present in various amounts, e.g. the amounts
mentioned
hereinabove or hereinafter.
Waxes
The lipid phase may be composed of or may comprise waxes. As used herein, the
term
'wax' refers to oil soluble materials that have a waxy consistency and have a
melting
point or range of above ambient temperature, in particular above 25 °C.
Waxes are
materials that have a solid to semi-solid (creamy) consistency, are
crystalline or not,
being of relative low viscosity a little above their liquefying point. Waxes
can be
composed of one or more components, synthetic as well as natural, and can in
principle
be composed of or comprise any oil soluble material having a waxy consistency.
The lipid phase may be composed of or may comprise waxes that are synthetic or
natural waxes, as well as other oil soluble materials that have a waxy
consistency.
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Waxes also encompass materials such as oils or fats of natural or synthetic
origin, and
waxy components such as higher alkanols (in particular fatty alcohols), higher
alkanediols (in particular hydroxy fatty alcohols), carboxylic acids (in
particular fatty
acids), dialkyl(ene)ethers, dialkyl(ene) carbonates, dicarboxylic acids and
the like
components.
Natural waxes comprise waxes from vegetal origin, such as purcelline, shea
butter,
cocoa butter, Japan wax, esparto gras wax, cork wax, Guaruma wax, rice shoot
wax,
Ouricury wax, montan wax, sunflower wax, ceresine wax, sugar cane wax,
carnauba
wax, candelilla wax, lanolin, fruit-derived waxes, such as orange wax, lemon
wax,
grapefruit wax and bayberry wax, and the like, and of animal origin such as
beeswax,
woolwax, spermateci and bear fat, shellac wax, and the like. Natural waxes
further
comprise mineral waxes such as ceresine and ozolterite waxes. Synthetic waxes
comprise petroleum-based waxes such as paraffin, vaseline, petrolatum, micro
wax.
Further synthetic waxes are polyalkylene and polyethyleneglycol waxes, e.g.
polyethylene wax; waxes based on chlorinated naphtalenes such as 'Halowax',
synthetic hydrocarbon waxes, and the like, including mixtures thereof. Further
waxes
are chemically modified waxes, in particular hardened or hydrogenated waxes
such as,
for example, Montan-ester waxes, Sasol waxes and hydrogenated jojoba waxes.
Preferred among these natural waxes are waxes from vegetal origin.
Other wax components can be certain fats (including mono-, di- and
triglycerides and
fatty acid alkylesters), fatty alcohols, fatty acids, including substituted
fatty acids (in
particular hydroxy substituted fatty acids, for example, 12-hydroxystearic
acid),
dialltyl(ene)ethers, dialltyl(ene) carbonates, dicarboxylic acids (in
particular the C16-
C4o-dialltylesters of dicarboxylic acids, e.g. the C1~-Coo-alltyl stearates,
Cl8-C3$-
alltylhydroxystearyl stearates or C2o-Cao-alkyl erucates) and hydroxy fatty
alcohols that
comply with the definition of 'wax' as outlined herein. Any of these
components may
contain homologous components that are liquid, as long as the total
composition
malting up the lipid phase has a waxy consistency. For example, waxy fats may
contain
oils, waxy fatty alcohols may contain liquid fatty alcohols, etc., in such
amount that the
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total composition has a waxy consistency and in particular has the melting
point or
range specified above.
Still further wax components are selected from the group of aromatic carbonic
acids,
tricarboxylic acids, or from the group of lactides of long-chained
hydroxycarbonic
acids. Myristyl lactate is particularly attractive for use on applicators for
shin treatment,
because of its binding capacity to the skin.
Further wax components that can be used are C3o-Cso-alkyl bees wax; tri-C16-
C4o-alkyl
citrates, e.g. tristearyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, trilauryl citrate;
ethyleneglycol difatty
acid esters, in particular the ethylene glycol di-C1z-Cso-fatty acid esters,
e.g.
ethyleneglycol dipalmitate, ethyleneglycol distearate, ethyleneglycol di(12-
hydroxystearate). As further useful components there can be mentioned silicone
waxes.
The lipid phase may also comprise mixtures of waxes and fats andlor oils.
The total amount of waxes in the lipid phase in particular is at Ieast 50 %,
preferably at
least 70 %, more preferably at least 90 %, w/w of the total amount of
components
making up the lipid phase.
In a particular aspect of this invention there are provided products as
specified herein
wherein the lipid phase essentially consists of one or more waxes selected
from the
waxes mentioned herein, including mixtures thereof. The waxes can be present
in
various amounts, e.g. the amounts mentioned hereinabove or hereinafter.
Fatt~ohols
The lipid phase may also comprise fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols that can be
used are,
for example, C12-Cso-fatty alcohols, in particular the C12-C24-fatty alcohols,
that are
derived from natural fats, oils or waxes such as, for example, myristyl
alcohol, 1-
pentadecanol, cetyl alcohol, 1-heptadecanol, stearyl alcohol, 1-nonadecanol,
arachidyl
alcohol, 1-heneicosanol, behenyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, lignoceryl
alcohol, ceryl
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alcohol or myricyl alcohol as well as Guerbet alcohols. Preferred for use in
the present
invention are saturated, straight or branch chained fatty alcohols. However
also
unsaturated, straight or branch chained alcohols can be used, optionally in a
mixture
with saturated alcohols. Preferably the alcohols will be selected such that
the melting
point of the mixture is as referred to hereinabove and more in particular is
in the range
of 32 to 40 °C.
Mixtures of fatty alcohols can evidently also be used, including fatty alcohol
fractions
obtained from the reduction of the corresponding fatty acid fractions derived
from
naturally occuring oils or fats such as, for example, almond oil, soybean oil,
sunflower
oil, safflower oil, corn oil, canola oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil,
grapeseed oil,
wheat germ oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, sesame oil, walnut oil, linseed oil,
palm oil,
olive oil, castor oil, macadamia oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, coconut oil,
and turnip
seed oil.
Synthetic alcohols can also be used such as, for example, the linear fatty
alcohols of an
even number of carbon atoms resulting from the Ziegler-synthesis (Alfole
° ) or the
partially branched alcohols resulting from the Oxo synthesis (Dobanole
° ).
A preferred embodiment according to the present invention is that wherein the
lipid
phase contains at least one fatty alcohol, more preferably at least one C14-
C18-fatty
alcohol. Also preferred is a lipid phase with at least one C16-C18-Guerbet
alcohol.
The use of fatty alcohols advantageously results in the lipid phase having a
drier, i.e.
less greasy, shin feel, compared to components such as triglycerides.
The total amount of fatty alcohols in the lipid phase may vary and depends on
the
desired properties of the lipid phase. In a number of instances it is
desirable to have a
relative higher quantity of fatty alcohols in the composition, in particular
said alcohols
will be present in an amount of 50 %, preferably at least 70 %, more
preferably at least
90 %, (w/w) of the total amount of components malting up the lipid phase. In
other
instances, relatively lower amounts are desired, the total amount of the fatty
alcohols
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present in the lipid phase may be in the range of 1- 40 %, preferably of 1- 30
(w/w),, more preferably of 1 - 20 % (w/w), still more preferably from 1 -10 %
(w/w).
In a particular aspect of this invention there provided products as specified
herein
wherein the lipid phase essentially consists of one or more fatty alcohols, in
particular
those specified in this patent specification, including mixtures thereof. The
fatty
alcohols can be present in various amounts, e.g. the amounts mentioned
hereinabove or
hereinafter.
Fatt~acids
The lipid phase may also contain C14-Cqo-fatty acids, including mixtures
thereof. Of
particular interest are the C16-Cso-fatty acids. These comprise, for example,
myristic-,
pentadecanoic-, palmitic-, margaric-, stearic-, nonadecanoic-, arachic-,
behenic-,
lignoceric-, cerotic-, melissic-, erucaic-, elaeostearic-, oleic-, lonolenic-,
lauric acid as
well as substituted fatty acids, e.g. hydroxy-substituted fatty acids such as,
for example,
12-hydroxystearic acid, and the amides or monoethanolamides of these fatty
acids.
The total amount of the Cl~-C4o-fatty acids present in the lipid phase,
relative to the
total weight amount of the lipid phase, may be in the range of 1 - 30 % (w/w),
preferably of 1 - 20 % (w/w), more preferably from 1 -10 % (w/w).
In a particular aspect of this invention there are provided products as
specified herein
wherein the lipid phase essentially consists of one or more fatty acids, in
particular
those specified in this patent specification, including mixtures thereof. The
fatty acids
can be present in varying amounts, e.g. the amounts mentioned hereinabove or
hereinafter.
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Diallcvl(ene)ethers or -carbonates dicarboxylic acids or hydrox~ty alcohols
The lipid phase may also contain dialkyl(ene) ethers, dialkyl(ene) carbonates,
dicarboxylic acids or hydroxy fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof, which
ethers,
carbonates, acids or alcohols in particular those described hereinafter.
In a particular aspect of this invention there axe provided products as
specified herein
wherein the lipid phase essentially consists of one or more dialkyl(ene)
ethers or -
carbonates, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxy fatty alcohols, including mixtures
thereof.
The dialkyl(ene) ethers or -carbonates, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxy fatty
alcohols can
be present in various amounts, e.g, the amounts mentioned hereinabove or
hereinafter.
The addition of dialkyl(ene) ethers or -carbonates, dicarboxylic acids or
hydroxy fatty
alcohols, including mixtures thereof to the composition of the lipid phase
allows to
optimize the properties of the lipid phase, in particular its sensoric
properties, i.e. the
products as well as the shin after the products have been applied have a less
greasier
feel and also a less dry skin-feel, while having excellent shin caring
properties.
Diallcyl(ene) ethers
The diallcyl(ene) ethers are symmetric or asymmetric, straight or branch
chained,
saturated or unsaturated. Preferred are waxy, saturated C1~-C3o-dialkylethers,
in
particular Cr~-Cz4-dialkylethers. More preferred are C16-Czo-dialkylethers,
and
particularly preferred are disteaxylethers and dibehenylethers. Dialkylethers
of shorter
chain length can also be used such as, for example, di-n-octylether, di-(2-
ethylhexyl)-
ether, laurylmethylether or octylbutylether, didodecylether. When using the
latter
components the complete composition of the lipid phase preferably is solid or
semi-
solid having the desired melting point as specified herein.
These ethers can be obtained from the appropriate fatty alcohols in the
presence of an
acid catalyst following art-known procedures. Typical examples are the
products that
are obtained by the ethexification of capron alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-
ethylhexyl
alcohol, caprin alcohol, Iauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
palmoleyl
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alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl
alcohol, linolyl
alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, ricinus alcohol, elaeostearyl
alcohol, arachidyl
alcohol, gadoleylalcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl
alcohol,
Guerbet alcohols, as well as mixtures thereof, which, for example, are
obtained by high
pressure hydrogenation of technical mixtures of the methyl esters derived from
fats or
oils.
Of particular interest are the dialkyl(ene) ethers that are solid at 25
°C.
l~iallcyl(ene) carbonates
The dialkyl(ene) carbonates are symmetric or asymmetric, straight or branch
chained,
saturated or unsaturated. Preferred dialkyl(ene) carbonates are waxy, linear
or branch
chained, saturated or unsaturated C14-Cso-dialkyl(ene) carbonates. More
preferred are
C16-CZø-dialkyl carbonates and amongst these the saturated linear C16-Caz-
dialkyl
carbonates. Particularly preferred is distearyl carbonate. Also liquid
dialkyl(ene)
carbonates, such as, for example, dihexyl-, dioctyl-, di-(2-ethylhexyl)- or
dioleylcarbonate, can be used. When using the latter components the complete
composition preferably is solid or semi-solid having the desired melting point
as
specified herein.
These dialkyl(ene) carbonates can be obtained by re-esterification of dimethyl-
or
diethylcarbonates with the corresponding hydroxy compounds following art-known
procedures. Typical examples of dialkyl(ene) carbonates are re-esterification
products
of dimethyl- and/or diethylcarbonate with capron alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-
ethylhexyl
alcohol, caprin alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
palmoleyl
alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl
alcohol, linolyl
alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, rizinol alcohol, elaeostearyl
alcohol, arachidyl
alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl
alcohol,
Guerbet alcohols, as well as technical mixtures thereof, that can be obtained
by
hydratation of methyl esters derived from suitable oils or fats or oil or fat
fractions.
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Of particular interst are those dialkyl(ene) carbonates that are solid at 25
°C.
Dicarbox~ic acids
Dicarboxylic acids that can be used are, for example, C9-C34-dicarbonic acids.
Of
particular interest are those dicarboxylic acids that are solid at 25°
C.
Hydroxy fatty alcohols
The hydroxy fatty alcohols for use in the Iipid phase are saturated or
unsaturated,
straight chain or branched. Preferred are C~2-C3o-hydroxy fatty alcohols, at
which the
position of the hydroxy-substituent depends upon the synthesis route and the
starting
materials that have been used. Included are, for example, 1,10-decanediol, 1,2-
hexadecanediol, 12-hydroxystearyl alcohol or hydroxy-Guerbet alcohols.
Preferred are
those hydroxy fatty alcohols that are solid at 25 °C, although liquid
analogs can also be
used. When using the latter components the complete composition preferably is
solid or
semi-solid having the desired melting point as specified herein. Particularly
preferred is
12-hydroxystearyl alcohol.
The total amount of one or more of the dialkyl ethers, dialkyl carbonates,
dicarbonic
acids and the hydroxyalcohols present in the lipid phase, relative to the
total weight
amount of the lipid phase, may be in the range of 1 - 30 °Io (w/w),
preferably of
1 - 20 % (w/w) more preferably from 1 -10 % (w/w).
Further components
The compositions of the lipid phase may contain further components, which may
be of
waxy nature or otherwise. The use of these further components allows to
influence the
sensorical properties as well as the stability of the compositions, in
particular after
application to applicator material and more in particular when in contact with
the
aqueous phase. The other components may also be added to influence
consistency, feel
and appearance. These components will generally be insoluble or poorly soluble
in
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water. Water-soluble components can also be included, typically in combination
with a
solubilizing or emulsifying agent and some water.
Examples of further components are superfatting agents, thickeners, polymers,
active
ingredients, film forming agents, UV-filters, anti-oxidants, hydrotropic
agents,
preservatives, insect repellents, self tanning agents, solubilizers, perfume
oils, dyestuffs
and the like.
These further components may be present in the lipid phase in amounts which
are in
the range of from 0 - 30 %, in particular from 0.1 - 20 %, more in particular
from 1 -
%, further in particular from 5 -10 %.
Substances that can be used as superfattin~ agents are, for example, lanolin
or lanolin
derivatives such as lanolin alcohols, lanolin acids, polyethoxylated or
acylated lanolin,
15 or other lanolin derivatives; phospholipids such as lecithin or lecithin
derivatives such
as polyethoxylated or acylated lecithin or other lecithin derivatives; polyol
fatty acid
esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides.
Appropriate cationic polymers are for example cationic cellulose derivatives ,
e.g.
quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (commercialized under the trade name
Polymer JR 400° by Amerchol), cationic starches, copolymers of
diallylammonium
salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/vinylimidazole-polymers
(for
example Luviquat~ of BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines,
quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, Iauryldimonium
hydroxy-
propyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat~L/Griinau), quaternized wheat
polypeptides,
polyethylene imines, cationic silicone polymers, e.g. amodimethicone,
copolymers of
adipinic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine
(Cartaretine~/Sandoz), copolymers of acryl acid with dimethyldiallylammonium-
chloride (Merquat~ 550/Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, cationic chitine
derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosans, optionally dispersed
in
microcristalline form, condensation products derived from dihalogenallcylenes,
such as,
for example dibromobutane with bis-dialkylamines, e.g. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-
pro-
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pane, cationic guar-gum derivatives, such as, for example, Jaguar° CBS,
Jaguar° C-17,
Jaguar~ C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt-polymers, e.g. Mirapol~
A-
15, Mirapol~ AD-l, Mirapol~ AZ-1 from Miranol.
Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers that can be used are,
for
example, vinylacetate/crotonic acid-copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinylacrylate-
copolymers, vinylacetate/butylmaleate/ isobornylacrylate-copolymers,
methylvinylether/maleic acid anhydride-copolymers and their esters, which are
not
cross-linked and with polyoles linked polyacrylacids which are cross-linked,
acryl-
amidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/ acrylate-copolymers,
octylacrylamide/me-
thylmethacrylate/tert.butylaminoethylmethacrylate/2-hydroxypropylmethacrylate-
copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpynolidone/vinylacetate-copolymers,
vinylpyrrolidone/ dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate/vinyl caprolactam-terpolymers
as
well as optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.
As further consistency agents there can be used small amounts of alkalimetal
or
alkaline earth metal as well as aluminium salts of C12-Ca4-fatty acids or Clz-
Caa.-
hydroxyfatty acids, preferred being calcium-, magnesium-, aluminium- and in
particular zinc stearates.
The lipid phase may further contain suitable anti-oxidants such as, for
example,
sulfites, e.g. sodium sulfite, tocopherol or derivatives thereof, ascorbic
acid or
derivatives thereof, citric acid, propyl gallate, chitosan glycolate,
cysteine, N-acetyl
cysteine plus zinc sulfates, thiosulfates, e.g. sodium thiosulfate,
polyphenoles and the
like.
The lipid phase may further contain op wders or powdered ingredients or
mixtures
thereof such as talcum, Bolus alba, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
cetylstearyl alcohol,
calcium or magnesium stearate, magnesium lauryl sulfate, starch or derivatives
thereof.
The lipid phase may further contain disinte~ratin~, a,aents, which are agents
that cause a
disintegration of the physical integrity of the lipid phase. The
disintegration may be in
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parts or on the whole of the lipid phase. The disintegrating agents may be
mixed or
dissolved into parts or the whole of the lipid phase. The disintegrating
agents may be
mixed continuously in the lipid phase or discontinuously, e.g. at the top side
of the lipid
phase, e.g. where the lipid phase is applied as a layer, at the top of that
layer or in the
top portion of that layer.
Suitable disintegrating agents are agents that are subject to physical or
chemical
interactions either by auto-interaction or by interaction between two agents.
This results
in a physical or chemical interaction with the lipid phase. One type of
disintegrating
agents are those that release a gas e.g. by decomposition or by chemical
reaction
between two components. An example of a disintegrating agent is a solid
mixture of a
bicarbonate and an acid such as sodium or potassium bicarbonate with a
suitable
organic acid, e.g. citric acid. Upon contact with water, e.g. upon contact
with the
aqueous phase, the disintegrating components will interact and liberate carbon
dioxide
which physically alters the lipid phase. Such physical alteration may, for
example,
cause the lipid phase to become homogeneously distributed on the applicator.
This may
positively influence the interaction between the aqueous and lipid phases,
which in turn
may have a positive effect on the transfer to the skin of materials, e.g.
active
ingredients, in these phases.
The lipid phase may further contain components that are subject to a
polymerization
reaction either during or after application on the applicator material.
Examples of such
components are oligomers that during or after application on the sheet
continue to
polymerize with monomers or other oligomers. Other examples are agents that
cause
netting or co-polymerisation. There can also be agents that inhibit
polymerization for a
specific period of time. Alternatively there can be agents that accelerate
polymerization
e.g. under influence of external factors such as heat, light or pressure.
In one type of embodiments, the lipid phase contains monomers or oligomers
that can
be caused to polymerize or co-polymerize under the influence of an external
factor, an
example of the latter being light. The lipid phase is applied to the
applicator and during
the application process the lipid phase is subjected to light radiation
whereupon
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polymerization occurs. Alternatively, the lipid phase may be subjected to
light radiation
after it having been applied to the applicator.
The lipid phase may further contain dyes that upon usage of the product change
color
due to a change of temperature or pressure. This will give the consumer a
level of
comfort and trust that the product delivers the lipid phase to the skin, or in
case of a
lipid phase containing active ingredients that the latter are delivered onto
the skin.
The lipid phase may further contain dye-precursors, i.e. agents that become
dyed upon
influence of physical or chemical factors. In particular embodiments the lipid
phase
may contain dye-precursors which react with certain agents that are present in
the
aqueous phase so as to form a dye. Similarly, the dye-precursors may be
present in the
aqueous phase and become transferred into dyes upon interaction with certain
chemicals incorporated into the lipid phase.
The lipid phase can also be formulated to or into beads. Particular such beads
are
polymeric beads wherein the lipid phase is entrapped in whatever form. The
terms
'beads' or 'polymeric beads' are meant to comprise any form of discrete, free-
flowing
powders, beads or capsules which envelope, coat or contain a lipid phase in a
mono- or
polymeric matrix or capsule. These terms also encompass powders, beads or
capsules
wherein the mono- or polymeric matrix itself is a lipid phase. These terms are
also
meant to include porous beads or 'microsponges' and 'microcapsules', the
latter being
beads of smaller size. The beads may be coated with a suitable coating
material that
protects the interior of the bead or controls the release of the lipid phase
entrapped
therein. The coating on the bead itself may contain a lipid phase. In the
latter instance,
the coating is layed on an inert core or on a core containing lipid phase
and/or other
ingredients.
Formulation of a lipid phase in beads may be done for protecting the lipid
phase from
external factors that may impact its integrity. However, it is mostly done for
allowing
controlled release of the lipid phase.
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A particular type of beads are small beads or capsules, having an average
diameter
which is in the micrometer range, although the average diameter can be as
small as
even 200 nm.
This type of capsules can be liposome-based, made for example of phospholipids
such
as lecithin, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidic acid
and the
like. This type of capsules also can be made of starch, cellulose, porous
gelatin and the
like.
The capsules or beads can also be relatively larger, having average sizes in
the mm or
0.1 mm range. This type of capsules or beads can be made of materials such as
agar,
glycolic acid polymers, and further components such as water, mineral oils,
glycerin.
They may contain further ingredients such as preservatives, dye(s), and the
like.
Another type of beads or microcapsules are microsponges. These are materials
sized
from about 5 to about 300 ,um (average diameter) having a large inner surface.
These
are obtained by polymerization of particular monomers. Lipid phase material
can be
entrapped therein either during this polymerization process or afterwards.
Microsponge-based carriers may be used to protect the lipid phase entrapped
therein or
for controlled release purposes.
The capsules may optionally contain one or more suitable disintegrating
agents, in
particular those mentioned in this specification. Upon contact with the
appropriate
external factor, the disintegrating agents will cause the capsules to break
open thus
allowing release of the lipid phase entrapped therein.
The capsules can be incorporated into the aqueous phase or into another lipid
phase, or
in both. They can also be applied to the applicator prior to the introduction
of the lipid
and aqueous phase. They can even be introduced during the manufacturing
process of
the applicator itself.
Release of the lipid phase from the beads or capsules can be the result of the
rupture of
the coating or from the matrix. This may be the result of physical factors
such as
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pressure, strain or by shearing forces upon use of the applicator product,
e.g. by rubbing
the product to the slcin or to a surface. Release of the lipid phase may be
due to the
semi-permeable or porous nature of the bead or its coating or due to external
factors
such as contact with liquid media that cause the lipid phase to become
extracted, or to
dissolve or disintegrate the bead or its coating, or by temperature effects.
The capsules
can also be disintegrated under influence of certain chemicals, in particular
by
disintegrating agents incorporated into the capsules. Particular embodiments
of the
latter are capsules containing suitable amounts of bicarbonate and an organic
acid
which, upon contact with water, e.g. upon contact with the aqueous phase when
using
the applicator product, cause the capsules to disintegrate.
The beads or capsules can be made according to methodologies generally known
in the
art, for example by emulsion polymerisation.
The beads or capsules may be applied to any portion of the applicator but
preferably
they are concentrated at the surface or in the upper surface portion of the
applicator.
This allows maximal transfer of the lipid phase to the skin or to the surface
to which
the product is applied.
The beads or capsules can be applied to the applicator in dry form by dusting,
sifting,
spraying and the like methods. They can also be printed or roll-coated in the
form of a
suitable liquid or paste. They can also be mixed with a suitable liquid, which
can be a
solvent that is inert towards the beads, or water, or the aqueous phase, and
sprayed onto
the applicator.
Preferred compositions
Preferred embodiments of the present invention are those wherein the lipid
phase has
the composition as described under I, lI, or III hereinafter.
In preferred embodiments, the composition of the lipid phase has a melting
point or
melting range of above 25 °C, preferably in the range of 30 to 45
°C, more preferably
in the range of 32 to 40 °C.
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The water content of the preferred compositions of the lipid phase is low,
e.g. lower
than 10 %, preferably lower than 6 %, more preferably lower than 3 % w/w
relative to
the total weight of the lipid phase. In particular, the preferred compositions
will be
water free.
Preferred embodiments I
In preferred embodiments I, the lipid phase comprises one or more fatty acid
mono-, di-
or triglycerides, or natural oils comprising mono-, di- or triglycerides as
well as the
hydrogenated derivatives of said natural oils. A particular example of a
hydrogenated
derivative of a natural oil is hydrogenated castor oil. The lipid phase in
particular
comprises C12-24 fatty acid mono-, di- or triglycerides, or more in particular
C16-2o
fatty acid mono-, di- or triglycerides. In particularly preferred embodiments
I, the lipid
phase comprises one or more triglycerides, in particular C12-24 fatty acid
triglycerides,
or more in particular C16-2o fatty acid triglycerides. Particular examples of
such
triglycerides are glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl laurate,
glyceryl myristate,
cocoglycerides, hydrogenated palm glycerides.
The total amount of mono-, di- or triglyceride(s) in the lipid phase of the
preferred
embodiments I in particular may be at least 50 %, preferably at least 70 %,
more
preferably at least 90 %, w/w of the total amount of components making up the
Lipid
phase. In certain embodiments the total amount of triglyceride(s) in the lipid
phase of
the preferred embodiments I may be at least 50 %, or at least 70 %, or at
least 90 %,
w/w of the total amount of components malting up the lipid phase.
Preferred embodiments II
In preferred embodiments TI, the lipid phase contains C12-Cso-fatty alcohols,
in
particular the C12-C24-fatty alcohols, that are derived from natural fats,
oils or waxes
such as, for example, myristyl alcohol, 1-pentadecanol, cetyl alcohol, 1-
heptadecanol,
stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, cetearyl
alcohol, 1-
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nonadecanol, arachidyl alcohol, 1-heneicosanol, behenyl alcohol, brassidyl
alcohol,
lignoceryl alcohol, ceryl alcohol or myricyl alcohol as well as Guerbet
alcohols.
Of particular interest for use in the invention are C14-CI8-fatty alcohols as
well as
C16-Clg-Guerbet alcohols.
The total amount of one or more of the C12-Cso-fatty alcohols present in the
lipid
phase, relative to the total weight amount of the Iipid phase, may be in the
range of 1 -
30 % (w/w), preferably of 1 - 20 % (w/w) more preferably from 1 -10 % (w/w).
Preferred embodiments III
In preferred embodiments III the lipid phase is a waxy composition comprising:
at least one oil or wax component selected from dialkyl(ene) ethers,
dialkyl(ene)
carbonates, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxy fatty alcohols or mixtures thereof.
In a particularly preferred embodiment III the lipid phase is a waxy
composition
comprising:
(a) at Ieast one oil or wax component selected from dialkyl(ene) ethers,
dialkyl(ene)
carbonates, dicarboxylic acids or hydroxy fatty alcohols or a mixture thereof;
(b) an active ingredient.
Particular dialkyl(ene) ethers, dialleyl(ene) carbonates, dicarboxylic acids
or hydroxy
fatty alcohols for use in the lipid phase of preferred embodiment III are
those
mentioned hereinabove.
The said preferred or particularly preferred waxy compositions preferably
liquefy
above 25 °C and/or have a water content of less than 10 %, preferably
Iess than 6 %,
more preferably less than 3 %. In particular said preferred or further
preferred waxy
compositions are water-free, and will be such that it is not decomposed by the
aqueous
phase. As used herein, water-free generally means that the phase is composed
of
materials of low water content to which no water has been added.
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The lipid phase having preferred composition IQ can contain the same further
ingredients as those described in relation to the lipid phase, in particular
further waxy
lipid components or oils.
The lipid phase having preferred composition III may also contain liquid
dialkyl(ene)
ethers, dialkyl(ene) carbonates, dicarbonic acids or hydroxy fatty alcohols,
however
preferably in such amounts that the melting point or range of the total
composition of
the lipid phase does not exceed 25 °C, and more preferably is within
the temperature
ranges mentioned above.
In particularly preferred embodiments , the products of this invention have a
lipid phase
containing
(a) from 1 - 50 % (w/w), in particular from 1- 30 % of an oily or waxy
component
selected from C14-C3o-dialkyl ethers, C14-Cso-dialkyl carbonates, C4-C34-
dicarbonic
acids or C12-Cso-hydroxyfatty alcohols or mixtures thereof
(b) 0 - 5 % (w/w), in particular 0.1- 5 % (w/w), of at least one active
ingredient
(c) 0 - 10 % (w/w), in particular 1-10 % (w/w), of at least one oil
(d) 0 - 10 % (w/w), in particular 0.1-10 % (w/w), of at least one emulsifier
(e) 0 - 90 % (w/w), in particular 5 - 90 % (w/w), of further waxy components
(f) 0 - 5 % (wlw), in particular 0 - 3 % (w/w) water.
Application of the lipid phase
The lipid phase may be applied to the applicator in various ways. Preferably
the lipid
phase is applied at the surface or at the surface portion of the applicator,
on one or on
several sides.
The lipid phase can be applied evenly or non-evenly to the applicator, non-
evenly
meaning that the distribution of the amount of the lipid phase varies over the
area of the
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applicator, i.e. some areas of the applicator can have greater or lesser
amounts of the
lipid phase. Preferably the lipid phase is evenly applied to the area of the
applicator.
The lipid phase can be applied discontinuously or continuously to one or
several sides
of the applicator, or it may even be applied as a complete covering of one or
several
surfaces of the applicator.
The lipid phase preferably is applied in a discontinuous pattern, to one or
several sides
of the applicator. To this purpose the lipid phase is applied in a
predetermined,
controlled manner to specific areas of the applicator. A discontinuous pattern
is one in
which the lipid phase has been applied to distinct regions separated by
regions of the
applicator which are free of the lipid phase. The lipid phase in that instance
is applied
to defined parts or regions of the applicator which may take a variety of
forms. The
lipid phase may in particular be applied as described above more generally for
the
application of both phases. Particular forms in which the lipid phase may be
applied
are, e.g. stripes, dots or spots, geometric configurations, either of regular
or irregular
shape, for example circles, ellipses, squares, rectangles and the like, logos,
text, letters
or any other non-continuous pattern, including the patterns described
hereinabove more
generally for the application of the lipid and aqueous phase.
Discontinuous patterns also comprise essentially networks of larger patterns
of the lipid
phase. In a preferred embodiment, the lipid phase is present as discrete
stripes which
can be disposed discontinuously, i.e. interrupted, or preferably continuous
over the
whole surface of the applicator. The stripes may also form a pattern of
discrete
segments which collectively comprise a stripe or they may have a repetitive
pattern
such as a sinusoidal shape or wave-like and the like pattern. If waving
stripes are
selected, preferably the stripes are in phase, so that parallelism is
maintained and each
stripe remains equally spaced from the adjacent stripes.
The stripes are preferably oriented in the machine direction, for ease of
manufacture.
In certain embodiments more than one lipid phase may be applied to one or
several
sides of the applicator. For example one lipid phase may be applied on the
entire
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surface or part of the surface of one side of the applicator, whereas another
lipid phase
is applied on the entire other side or only partly, either with the same or
another pattern
than the other lipid phase. Particular such embodiments are those having two
different
lipid phases on the same side e.g. in parallel stripes or other patterns with
the same or
different colors.
In particular embodiments, not more than half of the surface of the
applicator, either on
one side or, which is preferred, on several sides is carrying or covered by
the lipid
phase. In a preferred embodiment, the lipid phase is present at the surface on
several
sides, covering not more than 50 % of the applicator's surface, in particular
covering
not more than 35 % or not more than 25 % of the surface. In a particularly
preferred
embodiment, the lipid phase is present as stripes, in particular as parallel
stripes
running in parallel with the side of the applicator, covering not more than
half or, more
in particular 25 % of the surface. In another particularly preferred
embodiment, the
lipid phase is present as dots, equally spread over the entire surface of the
applicator,
covering not more than 50 % of the surface.
Some embodiments have more or less regularly shaped dots, other embodiments
have
circle-shaped dots, others have ellipsoids, while still others have mixed
patterns, e.g.
combinations of circles and ellipsoids, of regularly shaped dots and circles
and the like.
In case of stripes, the width thereof preferably is between 1 to 10 mm, more
preferably
between 3 to 7 mm. In case of dots, round shapes are preferred, e.g. circles
or
ellipsoids, with an average diameter between 1 to 10 mm, more preferably
between 3 to
7 mm. There can be stripes with different widths on one product, and there can
be dots
of different size on one product. An example of an embodiment of the latter is
an
applicator with circles of a certain size and ellipses of a different size, or
of circles with
different sizes.
The lipid phase may be colorless or colored, i.e. mono- or multi-colored.
Multi-colored
patterns are obtained by applying several lipid phases that have been dyed
differently.
A colored lipid phase will alert the user of the fact that the applicator is
covered by a
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special material that contains an active ingredient or it rnay also make the
product
aesthetically attractive.
In another embodiment the applicator itself is colored, either at several
sides or at one
side, over the complete surface, or only at parts. If the color is present
only at parts of
the applicator it preferably will talee the shapes and forms described in
connection with
the patterns that the lipid phase may take. In other embodiments only the
space between
the surface portions at which the lipid phase is applied is colored thus
leaving the areas
of the lipid phase uncolored. In this way, the patterns of the Iipid phase
will appear as
uncolored patterns.
A preferred pattern for coloring the applicator is in stripes. Examples of
such
embodiments are those wherein the colored stripes or the area between the
colored
stripes are covered with lipid phase. In the former instance the lipid phase
stripes are
colored, in the latter they are uncolored.
The lipid phase, which itself can be colored or uncolored, may be applied to
the colored
applicator in a number of different ways. In case of applicators having a
completely
colored surface, the lipid phase can be applied over the whole surface thus
resulting in
a different or altered color, e.g, a more pale color where the lipid phase is
white or
opaque. The lipid phase can also be applied in certain patterns, thus
resulting in
multicolored products or where the lipid phase is white or opaque in products
with
mono-colored patterns. Also in this instance, the preferred pattern is in
stripes.
In still a further embodiment, the applicator is colored in certain patterns
and the lipid
phase is applied on these patterns or part of these patterns. Also in this
instance the
lipid phase may be colored or uncolored, i.e. white, opaque or transparent. In
case the
lipid phase is white or opaque its thickness may be selected such that the
color of the
underlying section of the applicator is visible thus giving the consumer the
impression
that a lipid phase containing a particular ingredient is present.
The lipid phase is typically applied in an amount of from about 3 to about 40
g/m2,
preferably from about 10 to about 20 g/m2, either on one side or, preferably,
on several
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sides of the applicator. Or, alternatively, the lipid phase is applied in an
amount of
about 0.06 g to about 0.8 g per gram of substrate, preferably from about 0.20
g to about
0.40 g per gram of dry substrate.
The lipid phase can be applied to the applicator by any method that can be
used to
contact or impregnate a liquid or molten lipid material to or in an
applicator. The lipid
phase may be applied by bathing the applicator into liquid lipid phase. Where
the latter
is solid or semi-solid at room temperature, it is liquefied by melting or
dissolving into a
suitable solvent which is evaporated afterwards.
The lipid phase can also be applied by any method that allows coating of the
lipid
material onto the surface of the applicator. As used herein the term 'coating'
refers to
printing, covering, overlaying, finishing, spraying, extruding, laminating or
any other
method of applying the phase to the surface of the applicator.
A particular coating technique is extrusion wherein the composition is forced
through
tubes in contact with the applicator while the applicator passes across the
tubes. A
preferred technique comprises contacting the applicators with a heated head
equipped
with a slit blade, i.e. a blade having cut-out areas, wherefrom the lipid
phase, in molten
state, is extruded. Another preferred coating technique involves the so-called
hot melt
process which comprises spraying the liquefied lipid phase from a heated
spraying head
or nozzle. Another application technique involves spraying or drippling the
composition on a rotating surface such as calender roll that then transfers
the
composition to the surface of the substrate.
Still another technique is based on traditional printing technologies which
comprise, for
example, screen printing, roller printing and gravure printing. In general,
printing
comprises techniques wherein a rotating surface is provided with elevations
(by
engraving, embossing or similar techniques) and the elevations are contacted
with the
liquefied lipid phase, e.g. by running it through a bath with liquefied phase
one, and
thus printed on the applicator. Another technique to apply the lipid phase is
by using a
screen printing procedure where the molten lipid phase is introduced into a
rotating roll
and squeezed through a metal screen which covers the roll. This leads,
depending on
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the design of the screen, to a defined pattern on the applicator like stripes,
dots,
squares, circles and the like, or even logos and text.
A further technique to apply the lipid phase onto the applicator is by roller-
ball
application which comprises contacting a ball which is in direct contact with
the
applicator, with lipid phase in liquid state and transferring it through a
rolling
movement onto the applicator. Depending on the desired pattern of the lipid
phase on
the applicator, there can be several of such roller-ball applicators mounted
next to one
another, or after one another. They may contain the same or different lipid
phases.
The lipid phase may also be applied by high-pressure coating. In one type of
execution
of this procedure the lipid phase is applied via extrusion through appropriate
nozzles,
under high pressure. Specially shaped nozzles may be used resulting in
particular
patterns. For example there can be nozzles that result in circles, stars,
squares, or other
geometric shapes or even irregularly shaped patterns.
The lipid phase may also be applied by a combination of these application
techniques.
The lipid phase may also be applied to the applicator as particles or as
powder. In one
type of embodiments the lipid phase is applied as beads or small capsules,
e.g. by
drippling or screen printing. After application the particles may be caused to
melt
thereby forming small dots in or on the applicator.
The lipid phase preferably is applied in liquid form, e.g. in its molten form,
or can also
be applied as a powder.
The lipid phase may be applied in liquid form while being in admixture with
water,
which can be colored or uncolored and which is removed after application to
result in a
dry or essentially dry product. 'In liquid form' in this context means that
the lipid phase
is liquid in itself or is liquefied by heating, e.g. by heating in the water
in which it is
applied. The lipid phase is kept liquid all along the process. In the instance
of a solid
lipid phase, it is only allowed to solidify after removal of the water that
has been added.
In one embodiment, the lipid phase is mixed with hot water whereupon the
lipid/water
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mixture is applied to the applicator. The water is subsequently evaporated
which may
be accomplished by a variety of means, e.g. by simply allowing the water to
evaporate,
by passing the applicator over one or more heated members, thus forcing the
water to
evaporate, by applying dry air, either heated or not, by applying reduced
pressure.
In the execution where the water is colored, it will diffuse into the
applicator and after
its evaporation leave the applicator colored. The lipid phase that has been
applied in
this type of embodiment may be uncoloured, in which case it will appear as
white or
lighter areas. Or the lipid phase may be colored which will result in a mufti-
colored
product. In another execution, the lipid phase in this process is colored and
uncolored
water is used resulting in products wherein the lipid phase areas are colored
and the
areas and the other areas are uncolored. The thus obtained products may
subsequently
be treated with aqueous phase which may be colored or not, resulting in
products with
even more color combinations.
In one type of embodiments, the lipid phase is applied as a layer on the
applicator,
either continuously or discontinuously, at one or several sides of the
applicator and this
layer is dotted with particles of lipid phase material that are punched into
the surface of
the lipid layer by application of pressure. The material of the dots may be
the same or
different as that of the lipid layer.
The lipid phase preferably is applied in such manner that it will remain on
the
applicator surface during the manufacturing process and storage. This can be
conveniently accomplished by applying the lipid phase above its melting
temperature,
e.g. by spraying or coating it when molten to the surface of the applicator
and
subsequently allowing it to cool below its melting point so that the phase
solidifies.
The lipid phase preferably is applied such that it is present at the surface
of the
applicator because of its physical location in that instance, the lipid phase
is readily
available to be spread onto the skin during usage. As a result, the
effectiveness with
which the lipid phase is transferred to the skin during use, the availability
and therefore
the effectiveness of any active ingredients incorporated therein is increased
compared
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to products where the active agent is simply incorporated into a single
continuously
applied phase.
In preferred embodiments, the melting point or range of the lipid phase is
above 25 °C,
or within the temperature ranges specified above, because this allows to apply
the lipid
phase in liquid (molten) state to the applicator, and subsequently, after it
having been
cooled, to be present in solid state on the applicator. This allows a more
convenient and
easy after-treatment of the applicator to which the lipid phase has been
applied in this
manner, with the aqueous phase. In this way the two phases are applied in such
manner
that they do not mix or interact. Tn further preferred embodiments, the lipid
phase is
applied such that it forms a weak non-brittle film on the applicator.
Applicators that
have been treated this way are particularly stable, in particular during
storing,
essentially because mixing of the two phases is avoided. Additionally such
applicators
will allow the lipid phase to melt upon contact with the skin, thus allowing a
local
mixing or emulsification of both phases.
In some embodiments of this invention the products may contain two or more
lipid
phases with different stability towards the aqueous phase. This allows one
phase to
interact more quickly with the aqueous phase than the other. This may find
application
in products where a gradual of active ingredient is desired or the release of
a sequence
of two or more active ingredients.
The aqueous .phase
The aqueous phase can be any of the art-known aqueous based formulations used
to
impregnate applicators. Beside water the aqueous phase may also contain
further
ingredients or additives such as surfactants, emulsifiers, consistency
factors,
conditioners, moisturizers, thickeners, preservatives, active ingredients, in
particular
cosmetic or dermatologically active ingredients, fragrances and the like.
Active
ingredients suited fox topical applications are particularly preferred.
The aqueous phase may contain suitable dyes which preferably are hydrophilic.
In one
type of embodiments, the lipid phase is applied discontinuously as a layer
e.g. in the
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form of stripes leaving areas with only aqueous phase, which areas are
colored. This
allows the manufacture of applicator products with colored patterns, e.g.
colored lines
or even multicolored patterns when the lipid phase itself is also colored.
The aqueous phase may further contain lipophilic dyes, which upon contact with
the
lipid phase migrate into that phase and cause it to become colored.
The aqueous phase may further contain one or more preservatives such as, for
example,
phenoxyethanol, C1-ø alkylparabens and their salts, in particular their alkali
metal salts
such as sodium salts (e.g. C1-6 alkyl parabens such as methyl, ethyl, propyl,
isopropyl,
butyl paraben and the like parabens), chlorohexidine, formaldehyde or
formaldehyde
releaser, benzyl alcohol, chloroxylenol, phenoxyethanol,
methylchloroisothiazolinone,
methylisothiazolinone, sodium benzoate, chlorohexidine digluconate
methyldibromo
glutaronitrile, sodium borate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, alcohol, benzoic
acid,
dehydroacetic acid, diazolidinyl urea, dichlorobenzyl alcohol, glucose
oxidease,
hexamidine diisethionate, imidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate,
isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben, lactoperoxidease, magnesium nitrate, PEG-4
laurate, phenethyl alcohol, polyaminopropyl biguanide, potassium sorbate,
propylene
glycol, pyridoxine HCI, quaternium-15, sorbic acid, triclosan, tocopherol and
the like.
The aqueous phase may contain suitable surfactants although preferably in
limited
amounts, e.g. less than 20 %, or less than 15 %, or even less than 10 %, and
in
particular less than 5 % or Iess than 3 %, relative to the total weight of the
aqueous
phase. Examples of surfactants that can be incorporated are
alkyl sulfates, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium
cetearyl
sulfate;
alkyl sulfoacetates, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfoacetate;
alkyl ether sulfates, e.g. sodium laureth sulfate, sodium trideceth sulfate,
sodium oleth
sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate;
alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, e.g. disodium laureth sulfosuccinate;
allcyl glycosides, e.g. decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside;
alkyl isothionates;
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amphoterics, e.g. cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium
lauroamphoacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodiacetate,
sodium lauroamphopropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, potassium or
ammonium slats of the aforementioned amphoterics, capryl/capramidopropyl
betaine,
andecylenamidopropyl betaine, lauramidopropyl betaine and fatty alcohol
polyglycol
ethers.
Suitable conditioners are e.g. allcylamido ammonium lactate, cetyl
dimethicone, cetyl
ricinoleate, dimethicone, laureth-23, laureth-4, polydecene, retinyl
palmitate, agents
selected from glyceryl monooleate and cocoglucoside including mixtures thereof
(in
particular the product 'Lamesoft ~' of Cognis which is a mixture of these two
components), quaternized protein hydrolysates, quaternized cellulose and
starch
derivatives, quaternized copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts,
quaternised
silicone derivatives, silicone oils, cyclomethicones, and the like agents,
including
mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase may further contain suitable thickeners and film-forming
substances.
The aqueous phase may contain pH sensitive components, i.e. components that
change
properties upon change of pH. The change of pH may occur when contacting the
applicator product with the skin whereupon the pH changes from the pH of the
product
which usually is about pH 7 to the skin pH which is about pH 5.5. pH sensitive
agents
for example comprise particular emulsifiers, stabilizers, surfactants,
viscosity
regulating agents, chelators and the lilee.
In one type of embodiments an appropriate emulsifier is selected that is pH
sensitive in
this pH range in that it changes its emulsifying capacity, preferably
increases its
emulsifying capacity, so that upon contact with the skin an emulsification
process
occurs causing an interaction between the aqueous and lipid phases.
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The fore mentioned change of pH that occurs upon application of the product to
the
skin may also promote the release from active ingredients, in particular
actives that are
pH sensitive, e.g. actives having a pH dependent solubility.
Application of the aqueous phase
The aqueous phase may be applied to the applicator using methods generally
known in
the art for applying aqueous liquid lotions such as spraying, dripping,
immersing and
the like techniques. A preferred application method for the aqueous phase is
by
spraying with a suitable nozzle or by drippling, for example by using a
perforated tube
having holes or slits. The immersing technique can be done by running the
applicators
through a bath holding the aqueous phase and subsequently controlling the
amount of
liquid that is absorbed by pressing.
The aqueous phase may be applied in various ways as described for the lipid
phase,
evenly or non-evenly, continuously or non continuously, at the surface or
surface
portion or, preferably, throughout the whole of the applicator material.
Optionally some
parts of the applicator can be left dry, i.e, not having the lipid and the
aqueous phase, or
some parts can only have the lipid or the aqueous phase. The aqueous phase may
be
applied at several sides or only at one side of the applicator.
The aqueous phase is typically applied in an amount of from about 1.0 g to 10
g per
gram of substrate, preferably from 2.0 g to S g per gram of substrate, most
preferably
from 2 g to 4.5 g per gram of dry substrate, most preferably about 3.7 to
about 3.8 g per
gram substrate.
It may also be advantageous to only apply the aqueous phase to only those
areas (or that
side) of the applicator which have (or has) not already been covered with the
lipid
phase.
Since in many cases the product is used as a cleansing article it is useful to
design the
aqueous phase as cleanser. Soils that are most difficult to clean are either
water
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insoluble and/or strongly adhere to the skin. Therefore the aqueous phase is
formulated
such that it is capable of taking up water-insoluble materials.
Further Phases
In another embodiment of the invention a further layer is applied to the
applicator,
which is made of polymeric material, hereafter referred to as polymeric layer.
One or
more polymeric layers may be applied to the applicator. Whenever used herein,
the
term 'polymeric layer', refers to one or more polymeric layers.
The polymeric layer may be applied to one side of the applicator or to several
sides.
The polymeric layer is made of a suitable polymer such as polyethylene,
polypropylene,
polyester, a silicone and the like, including mixtures thereof. The polymeric
layer may
contain other materials, such as fillers or dyes. In the latter instance the
area of the
applicator covered with the polymeric layer will occur as colored areas. In
case several
polymeric layers are applied, layers with different colors may be used thus
resulting in
different colored patterns.
The polymeric layer may be applied to the applicator similarly as described
for the
application of the lipid phase. For example, it may be applied continuously,
i.e. over
the whole surface of the applicator, or discontinuously, e.g. in patterns,
e.g. as stripes,
spots or other figures. In the instance where the polymeric layer does not
cover the
whole surface, the lipid phase may cover both the areas of the applicator that
are
covered by the polymeric Iayer and the other areas.
The lipid layer may be applied onto the polymeric layer thus forming a double
layer.
The polymeric layer needs not be completely covered by the lipid phase, i.e.
some parts
may remain uncovered.
The polymeric layer may also be applied to the areas that are not covered by
the lipid
phase. For example the lipid phase may be applied as a layer in a
discontinuous fashion
and the polymeric phase is applied at the spots without lipid phase. In one
particular
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embodiment the lipid phase is applied as stripes and the polymeric layer is
put in the
area between these stripes thus forming a pattern of alternating stripes of
lipid phase
and polymeric layer. This may for example be done at one side of the
applicator while
the aqueous phase is put at another side.
The polymeric layer may be semi-solid so that it can be disrupted upon
application of a
product having such a layer. Semi-solid polymeric layers are made of polymers
that
have a waxy, creamy or similar consistency. In that instance the polymeric
layer can
also be applied as an external coating onto the applicator, covering one or
several sides,
covering parts or the whole surface. It may also cover pal-ts or the whole of
the lipid
layer.
The lipid phase that covers the polymeric layer may be colored or uncolored.
In the
former instance, the polymeric layer preferably is uncolored or white although
it may
be colored also. In the instance where the lipid phase is uncolored, the
polymeric phase
preferably is colored, although it may also be white or uncolored.
The polymeric phase may be applied for improving or promoting the transfer of
the
lipid phase that is coated thereon to the user's slcin. Using a colored
polymeric layer, or
a colored lipid phase, or both, results in an appearance, disappearance or
respectively
change of color when the applicator product is used and the lipid phase is
transferred to
the skin.
The polymeric layer is applied to the applicator using art-known methods to
coat
materials for manufacturing applicators like materials with a polymeric layer.
For
example the polymeric layer can be applied by screen printing, gravure
printing, roller
printing, embossing, spraying, drippling, bathing and the like techniques.
Additional ingredients for either one or both phases
The lipid and/or the aqueous phase may contain further ingredients that may be
present
in one or in both phases.
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Active ingredients
The lipid and/or the aqueous phase further may contain active ingredients for
application to the shin. The lipid phase preferably contains oil-soluble or
hydrophobic
active agents, while the aqueous phase preferably contains water-soluble or
hydrophilic
active agents. However by using suitable emulsifiers oil-soluble or lipophilic
active
ingredients can be incorporated into the aqueous phase and vice versa, water-
soluble or
hydrophilic agents can be incorporated in the lipid phase.
lp Products having a lipid and/or an aqueous phase that contains one or more
active
ingredients constitute particularly attractive embodiments of the present
invention.
Preferred are those embodiments wherein the active ingredients are present in
the lipid
phase. The active ingredients can also be present in particular combinations.
The active ingredients, which may be lipophilic or hydrophilic, can be mixed
with or
incorporated into suitable carriers. These comprise any slun-acceptable inert
materials
that are known for formulating active ingredients. The carriers can be finely
or more
coarsely divided powders, or even granulates. They can comprise starches,
sugars,
binders, lubricants, diluents, fillers, disintegrating agents, granulating
agents and the
like components. The nature of the carrier materials will depend on the active
ingredient that is formulated therein and on the type of formulation that is
desired.
Particular carriers for incorporating active ingredients are beads wherein the
active
ingredient is entrapped in some form. The terms 'beads' or 'polymeric beads'
are
meant to comprise any form of discrete, free-flowing powders, beads or
capsules which
envelope, coat or contain an active ingredient in a mono- or polymeric matrix
or
capsule. These terms are also meant to include porous beads or 'microsponges'
and
'microcapsules', the latter being beads of smaller size. The beads may be
coated with a
suitable coating material that protects the interior of the bead or controls
the release of
the active ingredient entrapped therein. The coating on the bead itself may
contain the
active ingredient in which case the coating is layed on an inert core.
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Formulating an active ingredient in beads can be for protecting the active
from
environmental factors but is mostly done for allowing controlled release of
the active.
A particular type of beads are small beads or capsules, having an average
diameter
which is in the micrometer range, although the average diameter can be as
small as
even 200 nm.
This type of capsules can be liposome-based, made for example of phospholipids
such
as lecithin, phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidic acid
and the
IO lilce. This type of capsules also can be made of starch, cellulose, porous
gelatin and the
like.
The capsules or beads can also be relatively larger, having average sizes in
the mm or
0.1 mm range. This type of capsules or beads can be made of materials such as
agar,
15 glycolic acid polymers, and further components such as water, mineral oils,
glycerin.
They may contain further ingredients such as preservatives, dye(s), and the
like.
Another type of beads or microcapsules are microsponges. These are materials
sized
from about 5 to about 300 ,um (average diameter) having a large inner surface.
These
20 are obtained by polymerization of particular monomers. An active ingredient
can be
entrapped therein either during this polymerization process or afterwards.
Microsponge-based carriers may be used to protect the active ingredient
entrapped
therein or for controlled release purposes.
25 The capsules may optionally contain one or more suitable disintegrating
agents, in
particular those mentioned in this specification. Upon contact with the
appropriate
external factor, the disintegrating agents will cause the capsules to brealc
open thus
allowing release of the active ingredient entrapped therein.
30 The capsules can be incorporated into the lipid or the aqueous phase or
into both. They
can also be applied to the applicator priox to the introduction of the lipid
and aqueous
phase. They can even be introduced during the manufacturing process of the
applicator
itself.
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Release of the active from the beads or capsules can be the result of the
rupture of the
coating or the matrix. This may be the result of physical factors such as
pressure, strain
or by shearing forces upon use of the applicator product, e.g. by rubbing the
product to
the skin or to a surface. Release of the active ingredient may be due to the
semi-
permeable or porous nature of the bead or its coating or due to external
factors such as
contact with liquid media that cause the active ingredient to become
extracted, or to
dissolve or disintegrate the bead or its coating, or by temperature effects.
The capsules
can also be disintegrated under influence of certain chemicals, in particular
by
disintegrating agents incorporated into the capsules. Particular embodiments
of the
latter are capsules containing suitable amounts of bicarbonate and an organic
acid
which, upon contact with water, e.g. upon contact with the aqueous phase when
using
the applicator product, cause the capsules to disintegrate.
The beads or capsules can be made according to methodologies generally known
in the
art, for example by emulsion polymerisation.
The beads or capsules may be applied to any portion of the applicator but
preferably
they are concentrated at the surface or in the upper surface portion of the
applicator.
This allows maximal transfer of the active ingredient to the skin or to the
surface to
which the product is applied.
The beads or capsules can be applied to the applicator in dry form by dusting,
sifting,
spraying and the like methods. They can also be printed or roll-coated in the
form of a
suitable liquid or paste. They can also be mixed with a suitable liquid, which
can be a
solvent that is inert towards the beads, or water, or the aqueous phase, and
sprayed onto
the applicator.
Examples of active agents for use in the aqueous or lipid phases comprise anti-
microbials, e.g. anti-bacterials and antifungals, anti-inflammatory agents,
anti-irritating
compounds, anti-itching agents, moisturising agents, sltin caring ingredients,
plant
extracts, vitamins, anti-inflammatories, actives for anti-stinging, anti-
irritants, anti-
dandruffs, anti-aging or anti-wrinkling agents, e.g. retinol, melibiose, skin
lifting agents
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such as dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE) and in particular its salt-forms. Other
suitable
actives are e.g. Medicago officinalis, Actinidia chinensis, allantoin, Aloe
barbadensis,
Anona cherimolia, Anthemis nobilis, Arachis hypogaea, Arnica montana, Avena
sativa,
beta-carotene, bisabolol, Borago officinalis, butylene glycol, Calendula
officinalis,
Camellia sinensis, camphor, Candida bombicola, capryloyl glycine, Carica
papaya,
Centaurea cyanus, cetylpyridinium chloride, Chamomilla recutita, Chenopodium
quinoa, Chinchona succirubra, Chondrus crispus, Citrus aurantium dulcis,
Citrus
grandis, Citrus limonum, Cocos nucifera, Coffea arabica, copper peptides such
as
copper tripeptide-1, Crataegus monogina, Cucumis melo, dichlorophenyl
imidazoldioxolan, Enteromorpha compressa, Equisetum arvense, ethoxydiglycol,
ethyl
panthenol, farnesol, ferulic acid, Fragaria chiloensis, Gentiana lutea, Ginkgo
biloba,
Glycine soya, glyceryl laurate, Glycyrrhiza glabra, Hamamelis virginiana,
heliotropine,
hydrogenated palm glycerides, citrates, hydrolyzed castor oil, hydrolyzed
wheat
protein, Hypericum perforatum, Iris florentina, Juniperus communis, lactis
proteinum,
lactose, Lawsonia inermis, linalool, Linum usitatissimum, lysine, Magnesium
aspartate,
magnifera indica, Malva sylvestris, mannitol, mel, Melaleuca alternifolia,
Mentha
piperita, menthol, menthyl lactate, Mimosa tenuiflora, Nymphaea alba, olaflur,
Oryza
sativa, panthenol, paraffinum liquidum, PEG-20M, PEG-26 jojoba acid, PEG-26
jojoba
alcohol, PEG-35 castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60
hydrogenated
castor oil, PEG-8 caprylic/capric acid, Persea gratissima, petrolatum,
potassium
aspartate, potassium sorbate, propylene glycol, Prunus amygdalus dulcis,
prunus
armeniaca, Prunus persica, retinyl palmitate, Ricinus communis, Rosa canina,
Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus, salicylic acid, Sambucus nigra,
sarcosine,
Serenoa serrulata, Simmondsia chinensis, sodium carboxymethyl betaglucan,
sodium
cocoyl amino acids, sodium hyaluronate, sodium palmitoyl proline,
stearoxytrimethylsilane, stearyl alcohol, sulfurized TEA-ricinoleate, talcum,
thymus
vulgaris, Tilia cordata, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, trideceth-9, Triticum
vulgare,
tyrosine, undecylenoyl glycine, urea, Vaccinium myrtillus, valine, zinc oxide,
zinc
sulfate and the like.
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Of particular interest are active ingredients, that can be used for treating
skin that
shows inflammatory reactions, that is irritated, red or damaged. Examples of
such
agents are zinc compounds or sulphur.
Further active ingredients that can be used are known under the tradename
Generol~
These comprise ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated phytosterines. Other active
ingredients comprise anti-microbial agents and biogenic active ingredients.
The active ingredients can be present, depending on the nature of the
ingredients and
their application, in various concentrations, but usually are present in a
quantity in the
range of 0,01- IO % (w/w), preferably from 0,1- 7 % (w/w) and more preferably
1-
5 % (w/w), w/w expressed to the total weight of the lipid or to the aqueous
phase.
Further additional ingredients
Both phases may contain further ingredients such as moisturizers, refattening
agents,
thickeners, powders, biogenic actives, deodorants, film formers, UV sunscreen
filters,
anti-oxidants, hydrotropes, preservatives, insect repellents, self tanners,
solubilizers,
perfumes, dyes, pigments, and the like.
Moisturizers
The lipid and/or aqueous phase can further contain one or more moisturizers.
These are
added to improve the sensoric properties as well as to regulate skin
hydratation. These
agents additionally can improve the penetration of the composition in or into
the
applicator.
Moisturizers typically may be present in quantities of 1-20 % (w/w),
preferably of 5 -
15 % (w/w), and more preferably 5 -10 % (w/w) - relative to the total amount
of the
lipid and/or the aqueous phase.
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Suitable moisturizers are a.o. amino acids, pyrrolidone carbonic acid, lactic
acid and its
salts, lactitol, urea and urea derivatives , ureic acid, glucosamine,
creatinine, hydrolysis
products of collagen, chitosan or chitosan salts/-derivatives, and in
particular polyols
and polyol derivatives (e.g. ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene
glycol,
pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, erythrite, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, polyethylene
glycols
such as PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-~, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16,
PEG-1~, PEG-20, PEG-I35, PEG I50), sugar and sugar derivatives (a.o. fructose,
glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannite, inosite, sorbite, sorbityl silandiol,
sucrose,
trehalose, xylose, xylit, glucuronic acid and its salts), ethoxylated sorbitol
(Sorbeth-6,
IO Sorbeth-20, Sorbeth-30, Sorbeth-40), honey and hydrogenated honey,
hydrogenated
starch hydrolysates, as well as mixtures of hydrogenated wheat protein,
hydrolyzed
mille protein, lecithin, pythantriol, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, and
PEG-20
acetate copolymers. Particularly preferred moisturizers are glycerine,
diglycerine and
triglycerine.
The products according to the invention can also be used in sunscreen
applications and
in that instance take the form of sunscreen applicators. In these products the
lipid
and/or aqueous phase contains one or more sunscreen filters which are for
example
organic substances that are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and to
set free the
absorbed energy as longer-wave radiation, e.g. as thermic energy. UVB-filters
can be
oil or water-soluble.
Insoluble sunscreen pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or metal
salts can
further be added, as well as secondary light protecting factors.
The addition of a dye has the advantage that it provides of a visible
indication for the
user, sending the message of particular (active) ingredients having been
incorporated in
the lipid phase. It allows furthermore to visualize the stability of the
phase, in
particular of the lipid phase, that has been applied on the applicator can be
easily
visualized. This allows, for example, to monitor whether the oily and aqueous
phases
have become mixed upon the storage.
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Emulsifiers
The lipid and/or aqueous phase in the products of the invention may further
contain one
or more emulsifiers which can be of the W/O (for use in the lipid phase) or
the O/W
(for use in the aqueous phase) type. The addition of an emulsifier allows the
incorporation of hydrophilic components or agents into the lipid phase and
vice versa
of lipophilic components or agents into the aqueous phase.
Preferred are non-ionic emulsifiers which typically have good skin
compatibility.
Improved sensoric properties are obtained when combining non-iononics W/O and
O/W emulsifiers. The lipid andlor aqueous phase may contain the emulsifiers)
in an
amount of 0 to 20 % (w/w), in particular of 0.1 to 15 % (w/w), more in
particular of
0.1 to 10 % (w/w), still more in particular from 0.1 to 5%, or 0.1 to 2%,
relative to the
total quantity of the lipid andlor aqueous phase.
Non-ionic emulsifiers
Particular non-ionic emulsifiers comprise:
(1) Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 20 moles
propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 40 C-atoms, to fatty
acids
with I2 to 40 C-atoms and to alkylphenols with 8 to 15 C-atoms in the alkyl
rest.
(2) Clans-fatty acid mono- and -diesters of addition products of 1 to 50 moles
of
ethylene oxide and glycerine.
(3) Glycerine mono- and -diesters and sorbitan mono- and -diesters of
saturated and
unsaturated fatty acids with 6 to 22 C-atoms and their ethylene oxide addition
products.
(4) AIIcyl mono- and -oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 C-atoms in the alkyl rest
and their
ethoxylated analogs.
(5) Addition products of 7 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and/or
hardened castor oil.
(6) Polyol- and in particular polyglycerine esters, such as e.g. polyol poly-
12-
hydroxystearate, polyglycerine polyricinoleate, polyglycerine diisostearate or
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polyglycerine dimerate. Also applicable are mixtures of compounds of several
of
these substance classes.
(7) Addition products of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide to castor oil and/or
hardened castor oil.
(~) Partial esters derived from linear, branch chained, unsaturated or
saturated C6-
C2~-fatty acids, ricinoleic acid as well as 12-hydroxystearic acid and
glycerine,
polyglycerine, pentaerythrite, dipentaerythrit, sugar alcohols (e.g.
sorbitol),
alkylglucosides' (e.g. methylglucoside, butylglucoside, laurylglucoside) as
well as
polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose), or mixed esters such as e.g. glyceryl
stearate/citrate and glyceryl stearate/lactate.
(9) Wool wax alcohols.
(10) Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether-copolymers and derivatives thereof.
(11) Mixed esters from pentaerythrite, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty
alcohols and/or
mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 C-atoms with methylglucose and polyo
les, respectively glycerine or polyglycerine.
(12) Polyalkylene glycols.
The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide and fatty
alcohols,
fatty acids, alkylphenoles, glycerine mono- and -diesters as well as sorbitan
mono- and
-diesters of fatty acids or of castor oil are known and commercially available
products.
Usually these are mixtures of homologues of which the average degree of
alkoxylation
corresponds to the ratio of starting quantities of ethylene oxide and/or
propylene oxide
and substrate, with which the addition reaction is conducted. Depending upon
the
degree of alkoxylation these products are either W/O- or O/W-emulsifiers.
Clans-fatty
acid mono- and -diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide to glycerine
are known
as re-fatting agents in cosmetic applications.
Particular useful and mild emulsifiers are polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearates and
mixtures
thereof with other components, that are available under the tradename
"Dehymuls~ PGPH" (W/O-emulsifier) or "Eumulgin ° VL 75" (1:1 w/w
mixture with
coco-glucosides, O/W-emulsifier) or Dehymuls~ SBL (Wl0-Emulsifier) from Cognis
Deutschland GmbH. The polyol components of these emulsifiers can be derived
from
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materials that have at least two and in particular 3 to 12 and more in
particular 3 to 8
hydroxyl groups, and 2 to 12 carbon atoms.
Tn case it is desirable to incorporate water-soluble active ingredients and/or
small
amounts of water into the lipid phase it can be advantageous to add an
emulsifier
selected from the group of non-ionic O/W-emulsifiers (HLB-value: 8 -18) and/or
solubilizers. These can for example be the already mentioned ethylene oxide-
adducts
with a corresponding high degree of ethoxylation e.g. 10 - 20 ethylene oxide
units in
the case of O/W-emulsifiers and 20 - 40 ethylene oxide units for so-called
solubilizers.
20 Particularly attractive as O/W emulsifiers are Ceteareth-12 and PEG-20
stearate.
Particularly attractive solubilizers are Eumulgin~ HRE 40 (INCI: PEG-40
Hydrogenated Castor Oil), Eumulgin° HRE 60 (INCI: PEG-60 Hydrogenated
Castor
Oil), Eumulgin~ L (INCI: PPG-1-PEG-9 Laurylglycolether) and Eumulgin~ SML 20
(11~TCI: Polysorbate-20).
Non-ionic emulsifiers of the group of alkyl oligoglycoside are particularly
skin
compatible and therefore preferred as O/W-emulsifiers. C$-C22-alkyl mono- and
oligoglycosides, their preparation and use have been described in the prior
art.
Oligoglycosides are meant to comprise oligomeric glycosides with a degree of
oligomerisation of up to about 8. The degree of oligerisation can also be a
statistical
average used for those products comprised of a specific range of
oligoglycosides. An
example is the product sold under the tradename Plantacare~ which has a C$-C16-
alkyl
group glycosidically bound to an oligoglucoside rest, having an average degree
of
oligomerisation between 1 and 2.
Other non-ionic emulsifiers are the acyl glucamides. Preferred is the product
sold under
the tradename Emulgade" PL 68/50 (Cognis Deutschland GmbH) which is a 1:1-
mixture of alkyl polyglucosides and fatty alcohols, and a mixture of lauryl
glucoside,
polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, glycerine and water, sold under the
trade name
Eumulgin° VL 75.
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Li~ophilic W/O-emulsifiers in principle are emulsifiers with a HLB-value in
the range
of 1 to 8. The HLB-value of ethoxylated products is calculated by the formula:
HLB =
(100 - L) : 5, wherein L is the percentage (in weight %) of lipophilic groups,
i.e. of
fatty allcyl- or fatty acyl groups in the ethylene oxide adducts.
Particularly attractive W/O-emulsifiers are the partial esters of polyoles, in
particular of
mono-, di- or tri-, sesqui esters of fatty acids of polyoles, more in
particular of C3-C6-
polyoles, such as, for example, glyceryl monoesters, partial esters of
pentaerythrite or
carbohydrate esters, e.g. saccharose distearate, or sorbitane mono-, di-, tri-
or sesqui
fatty esters in particular stearates, oleates, erucates, ricinoleates,
hydroxystearates,
isostearates (but also: tartrates, citrates, maleates) and the like. Also
attractive are
addition products of 1 to 30, respectively 5 to 10 moles ethylene oxide to
these
sorbitane esters.
Further Surfactants/Emulsifiers for both h~ases
Depending upon the use of the products of the present invention, the lipid
and/or
aqueous phase may further contain zwitterionic, amphoteric, cationic and or
anionic
surfactants.
Zwitterionic surfactants are those tensioactive compounds, that contain at
least a
quaternary ammonium group and at least a -COO ~- or -503 ~- group.
Particularly
useful zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N,N-
dimethyl
ammonium glycinate, for example coco-alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-
aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coco-acyl aminopropyl
dimethylammonium glycinate, arid 2-allcyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimida-
zoline, each having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl- or acyl group as well as
coco-acyl
aminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic
surfactant
is the fatty acid amide-derivative known by its INCI-name cocamidopropyl
betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants can further be added, in particular as co-surfactants.
Ampholy-
tic surfactants comprise those tensioactive compounds, that beside a Cs-Cl8-
alkyl- or
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acyl group at least contain a free amino group and at least a -COOH- or -S03H-
group
and are able to form internal salts. Examples of appropriate ampholytic
surfactants are
N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic acids, N-alkyl amino buteric acids, N-
alkyl imino-
dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl amidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl
taurine, N-
alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylamino acetic acids with
in each
alkyl group about 8 to I8 C-atoms.
Most preferred ampholytic surfactants N-coco-alkyl aminopropionate coco-acyl
amino
ethylamino propionate and Clz-is-acylsarcosine.
IO
Anionic surfactants are characterized by a water solubilizing anionic group
such as a
carboxylate-, sulfate-, sulfonate- or phosphate- group and a lipophilic rest.
Particular
anionic surfactants are the alkali-, ammonium- or alkanol ammonium salts of
alkyl
sulfates, alkyl ethersulfates, alkyl ethercarboxylates, acyl isethionates,
acyl
sarkosinates, acyl taurines with linear alkyl- or acyl groups having 12 to 18
C-atoms as
well as alkali- or ammonium salts of sulfosuccinates and acyl glutamates.
Quaternary ammonium derivatives can in particular be used as cationic
surfactants.
Preferred are ammonium halogenides, in particular chlorides and bromides, e.g.
alkyl
trimethylammonium chloride, dialkyl dimethylammonium chloride and trialkyl me-
thylammonium chloride, z. B. cetyl trimethylammonium chloride, stearyl trime-
thylammonium chloride, distearyl dimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl-
ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetyl methyl-
ammonium chloride. Additional cationic surfactants are the quaternary esters
with good
biological degradability, such as, for example, dialkylammonium methosulfates
and
methylhydroxyallcyl dialkoyloxy alkylammonium methosulfates (sold under the
tradename Stepantex~ and the products of the Dehyquart~-series). The term
"Esterquats" is meant to comprise quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester
salts
which have a beneficial impact on the softness of the phases, in particular of
the lipid
phase. Further cationic surfactants are the quaternized protein hydrolysates.
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Manufacture.
This invention further concerns a process for preparing a product as defined
herein,
said process comprising contacting the applicator with a lipid phase
composition and
an aqueous phase composition as described herein. The process comprises
contacting
the applicator simultaneously or subsequently with the lipid phase and the
aqueous
phase.
Contacting the applicator with the aqueous phase comprises impregnating it
with the
aqueous phase by procedures such as, for example, running through a bath,
immersing,
spraying, drippling and the like techniques. Contacting the applicator with
the lipid
phase is as described above in the section 'lipid phase', preferably by
spraying, printing
or by a direct contact procedure in which there is a direct contact between
the
applicator and an application head having slit nozzles.
In a particular execution, the process comprises contacting the applicator
with a lipid
phase and subsequently with an aqueous phase.
The lipid and aqueous phases can also be applied to the applicator at any time
during
the manufacturing process of the applicator, for example either one or both of
the
phases may be applied during the manufacturing process of the applicator
material.
Preferably the lipid andlor aqueous phase are applied to the applicator after
finishing
the manufacturing process of the applicator.
The thus obtained applicators can be packed individually or can be packed in a
determined number, e.g. a number between 10 and 30 in a suitable package, for
example a plastic wrap, box and the like.
Applicators with different coating and/or impregnation can be combined in one
packaging. For example there can be a series of applicators with increasing or
decreasing amounts of lipid phase. Or colored or uncolored applicators can be
alternated.
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Application and roperties
The products according to the present invention advantageously result in an
optimal
release of the active ingredient(s), in particular when incorporated in the
lipid phase,
onto the skin during use.
Optimal release of active ingredients can be achieved by using a lipid phase
which is a
solid lipid having a melting point or melting range which is equal to or
slightly exceeds
body temperature. Without being bound to theory, it is believed that this
results in a
quicker melting of the lipid phase causing a faster and more efficient
transfer and
release to the skin of the active materials.
Optimal release of active ingredients can also be achieved by using a suitable
emulsifier in one or both of the phases to cause a local emulsification
process on the
skin during use of the applicators. Preferably the emulsifier is present in
the aqueous
phase. This local emulsification may be the result of body temperature causing
the lipid
phase to melt or it may be the result of pressure exerted during usage of the
applicator,
or it may be the result of both, the latter being usually the case. In the
instance of local
emulsification by the effect of pressure, the emulsification process is driven
by the
(limited) pressure exerted by the user when applying the applicator, e.g. by
rubbing it
across the skin, dabbing it and the like. This causes the two phases to
contact and form
an emulsion locally. This local emulsification can also be achieved by
contacting the
lipid phase in the products with water or with an aqueous phase prior to
usage. Or this
local emulsification is achieved by using the products on a wet skin.
In this local emulsification process, a limited amount of the phase without
emulsifier is
incorporated into the phase having the emulsifier. In preferred embodiments,
the
aqueous phase contains a small amount of emulsifier, for example the
emulsifier may
be present in an amount from about 0.5 to about 5%, more in particular from
about 1 to
about 3%. In that instance some of the lipid phase is locally emulsified into
the aqueous
phase.
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Although in preferred embodiments the lipid phase is not present on the whole
surface
of the applicator, nevertheless a good release of the lipid phase and of the
components
contained therein is attained, especially when the local emulsification
process comes
into play.
Optimal release of active ingredients can also be achieved by making use of
both above
possibilities.
The products according to the invention can be for baby or adult use in a wide
range of
applications as personal care products, comprising, for example, baby
cleansing, face or
body cleansing, skin treatment or skin conditioning such as for example skin
moisturization and against skin aging, insect repellence, powder applicators,
toilet
applicators, anti-perspirant applicators, peeling applicators, after-sun
treatment,
sunscreen applicators, applicators for feminine hygiene, nappy rash
applicators, the
latter preferably containing zinc oxide as active ingredient, and the like.
The products of the invention may find use as cleansing toolsin that they may
be more
effective cleansers compared to products that have only an aqueous phase. This
is due,
i.a., by the fact that they can remove both aqueous and lipid soils and
components. The
products of the invention may in particular be used of cleansers for babies
because of
their effectiveness to remove waste deposits as well as to reduce a number of
microorganismes that can cause infection.
The products described herein find use as applicators of active substances, in
particular
of the active substances mentioned herein, or they find use as both cleanser
and
applicator of active substances in one product.
The products of this invention have excellent transfer of active ingredients
to the skin
thus widening the applications of applicator products as a vehicle for a
number of
actives, in particular more expensive actives that so far could not be applied
because of
poor transfer rate. The products of this invention not only provide a more
efficient
transfer of active ingredients to the skin, but moreover provide other
consumer benefits
such as a more even distribution of the actives on the skin, better slcin
penetration.
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The products of this invention show the additional advantage that they may
combine in
one and the same product both cleansing capability and the transfer of active
ingredients to the slcin, i.e. the application of leave-on products. They
further allow to
independently optimize the cleansing and skincare attributes of the product
and at the
same time improve the delivery of skincare actives onto the skin. Hence,either
of both
aspects may be present in a larger extend, i.e. the product may be primarily
for
cleansing purposes but also having the capability of transferring certain
beneficial
components or active substances to the skin, or vice versa, the products may
be
designed for applications in instances where the primary benefit is not
cleansing but a
better and more convenient form of application of leave-on products. The
products of
the invention may furthermore have improved performance in terms of cleansing
and
skin benefits since both attributes can be formulated in different phases
independently.
Another benefit of the products of this invention is that they may offer a
softer feel of
the applicator material due to the modification of the applicator surface
caused by the
presence of the lipid phase. The products moreover offer gentler cleansing
because of
less friction of the applicator on the skin (softer skin-feel).
The products of this invention additionally may offer the possibility to
incorporate into
or apply to one product two or more incompatible ingredients, thus allowing
the user to
apply incompatible agents with one and the same product. In particular it is
possible to
have a product that has as well water soluble as lipid soluble ingredients,
for example
an applicator that has both active ingredients that are water-soluble and oil
soluble.
A still further advantage lies in the fact that the instant products allow an
improved
transfer of actives onto the slun since the active ingredients usually are
concentrated at
the surface of the applicator material and not included in the inner phase of
a typical
o/w-emulsion.
Most types of lipid and aqueous phases described herein possess the additional
advantage that they are almost odorless (unless fragrances are added),
environmentally
friendly and biologically decomposable.
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The products of this invention are particularly attractive because they allow
convenient
and quick application, and allow an easy and more evenly distribution of any
ingredients incorporated therein or thereon. They moreover are convenient for
application on babies and children. The products additionally allow faster and
effective
cleansing.
In view of these beneficial properties, the products of this invention can be
used in a
wide variety of cosmetic and personal care applications, but also in other
cleaning or
cleansing applications such as cleaning of hard surfaces.
Examples
The following examples are given with the nomenclature of INCI. As used in the
following examples, C.I. refers to dyes.
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Example 1: lipid phases
Phase 1-A
Cocoglycerides 64.99 %
Cetyl Alcohol 33.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 1.00 %
Tocopherol 1.00 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
Phase 1-B
Cocoglycerides 54.99 %
Cetyl Alcohol 33.00 %
Ceteareth-12 3.00 %
Glyceryl Stearate 4.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 2.00 %
Tocopherol 1.00 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
Aqua 2.00 %
Phase 1-C
Cocoglycerides 49.99 %
Cetearyl Alcohol 20.00 %
Cegesoft~ HF 52 5.00 %
Cegesoft0 PS 6 3.00 %
Ceteareth-12 2.00 %
Glyceryl Stearate 2.00 %
PEG-20 Stearate 10.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 2.00 %
Tocopherol 1.00 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
Aqua 5.00 %
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Phase 1-D
Cocoglycerides 5.99 %
Glyceryl Stearate 25.00 %
Glyceryl Laurate 14.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 1.00 %
Tocopherol 1.00 %
C.I. 75300 0.01 %
Phase 1-E
Cocoglycerides 30.00 %
Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00 %
Cegesoft~ HF 52 20.00 %
Cegesoft~ GPO 5.00 %
Ceteareth-12 15.00 %
Glyceryl Stearate 20.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 5.00 %
Tocopherol 1.00 %
Panthenol 1.00 %
Aqua 2.00 %
Phase 1-F
Cocoglycerides 19.99 %
Cetearyl Alcohol 30.00 %
Cegesoft~ PS 6 10.00 %
Eumulgin~ VL 75 10.00 %
Ceteareth-12 5.00 %
Glyceryl Stearate 10.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 5.00 %
Tospearl0 145 A 5.00 %
Zinc Stearate 2.00 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
Aqua 3.00 %
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Phase 1-G
Myristyl Alcohol 19.99 %
Cocoglycerides 10.00 %
Cegesoft~ HF 52 20.00 %
Eumulgin~ VL 75 10.00 %
Glyceryl Stearate 20.00
PEG-20 Stearate 5.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 2.00 %
Panthenol 3.00 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
Aqua 10.00 %
Phase 1-H
Myristyl Alcohol 47.99 %
Stearyl Alcohol 25.00 %
Eumulgin~ VL 75 2.00 %
PEG-20 Stearate 14.00 %
1,2-Hexadecanediol 5.00 %
Bisabolol 1.00 %
C.I. 47000 0.01 %
Aqua 5.00 %
Phase 1-I
Cocoglycerides 47.99 %
Stearyl Alcohol 20.00 %
Eumulgin~ VL 75 2.00 %
PEG-20 Stearate 12.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 5.00 %
Cyclomethicone 3.00 %
Tospearl~ 145 A 5.00 %
C.I. 75300 0.01 %
Aqua 5.00 %
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Phase 1-J
Cocoglycerides 55.99 %
Glyceryl Stearate 20.00 %
Glyceryl Laurate 15.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 5.00 %
Talc 2.00 %
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate2.00 %
C.I. 60725 0.01 %
Phase 1-I~
Cocoglycerides 50.99 %
Glyceryl Stearate 25.00 %
Glyceryl Laurate 15.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 5.00 %
Talc 2.00 %
Timiron~ Splendid Gold 2.00 %
C.I. 21230 0.01 %
Phase 1-L
Myristyl Alcohol 5.99 %
Stearyl Alcohol 23.00 %
PEG-20 Stearate 15.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 2.00 %
Panthenol 1.00 %
C.I. 61525 0.01 %
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Phase 1-M
Myristyl Alcohol 47.99 %
Stearyl Alcohol 25.00 %
Eumulgin~ VL 75 2.00 %
PEG-20 Stearate 10.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 7.00 %
Panthenol 2.00 %
C.I. 61525 0.01 %
Aqua 6.00 %
Phase 1-N
Myristyl Alcohol 50.00 %
Stearyl Alcohol 25.00 %
Eumulgin~ VL 75 2.00 %
PEG-20 Stearate 10.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 7.00 %
Ethyl Butylacetylaminopropionate5.00 %
Panthenol 1.00 %
Phase 1-O
Cocoglycerides 54.99 %
Cetyl Alcohol 33.00 %
Ceteareth-12 3.00 %
Glyceryl Stearate 4.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 2.00 %
Octyl Methoxycinnamate 6.00 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
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Phase 1-P
Cocoglycerides 56.99 %
Glyceryl Stearate 25.00 %
Glyceryl Laurate 14.00 %
Di-Stearyl Carbonate 1.00 %
Polyethylene 3.00 %
C.I. 75300 0.01 %
Phase 1-Q
Cocoglycerides 5.93 %
Glyceryl Stearate 25.00 %
Glyceryl Laurate 15.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 1.00 %
Aqua 0.06 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
Phase 1-R
Cocoglycerides 43.93 %
Stearyl Alcohol 15.00 %
Glyceryl Stearate 25.00 %
Glyceryl Laurate 15.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 1.00 %
Aqua 0.06 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
Phase 1-S
Cocoglycerides 44.93 %
Glyceryl Stearate 25.00 %
Glyceryl Laurate 15.00 %
Di-Stearyl Ether 15.00 %
Aqua 0.06 %
C.I. 61565 0.01 %
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Example 2: aqueous phases
Phase 2-A
Aqua 96.336 %
Polysorbate 20 0.600 %
PEG-75 Lanolin 0.100 %
Parfum 0.150 %
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor 0.400 %
Oil
Propylene Glycol 1.120 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.800 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.078 %
Chamomilla Recutita 0.070 %
Ethoxydiglycol 0.171 %
Butylene Glycol 0.035 %
Glucose 0.016 %
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.010 %
PEG- 4 Laurate 0.090 %
Citric Acid 0.020 %
Phase 2-B
Aqua 98.252 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.800 %
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.010 %
PEG- 4 Laurate 0.090 %
Parfum 0.150 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.078 %
Citric Acid 0.020 %
Polysorbate 20 0.600 %
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Phase 2-C
Aqua 97.250 %
Glycerines 1.000 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.800 %
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.010 %
PEG- 4 Laurate 0.090 %
Parfum 0.150 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.078 %
Citric Acid 0.020 %
Polysorbate 20 0.600 %
Phase 2-D
Aqua 96.332 %
Glycerines 1.000 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.800 %
Polysorbate 20 0.600 %
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether 0.400 %
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0.100 %
Propylene Glycol 0.350 %
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.010 %
PEG- 4 Laurate 0.090 %
Chamomilla Recutita 0.070 %
Parfum 0.150 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.078 %
Citric Acid 0.020 %
Phase 2-E
Aqua 97.33 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.800 %
Polysorbate 20 0.600 %
Sorbeth-30 0.400 %
Propylene Glycol 0.350 %
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Dimethicone Copolyol 0.100 %
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0. 010 %
PEG- 4 Laurate 0.090 %
Chamomilla Recutita 0.070 %
Parfum 0.150 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.078 %
Citric Acid 0.020 %
Phase 2-F
Aqua 97.332 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.800 %
PEG-80 Sorbitan Laurate 0.600 %
Propylene Glycol 0.350 %
Sorbeth-30 0.400 %
Octyldecanol 0.100 %
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.010 %
PEG-4 Laurate 0.090 %
Chamomilla Recutita 0.070 %
Parfum 0.150 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.078 %
Citric Acid 0.020 %
Phase 2-G
Aqua 97.332 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.800 %
Polysorbate-20 0.600 %
PGG-15 Stearyl Ether 0.400 %
Propylene Glycol 0.350 %
Decyl Oleate O.lOQ %
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.010 %
PEG-4 Laurate 0.090 %
Chamomilla Recutita 0.070 %
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Parfum 0.150 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.078 %
Citric Acid 0.020 %
Phase 2-H
Sodium Myreth Sulfate 10.00 %
Lauryl Glucoside 15.00 %
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.00 %
Aqua 64.50 %
Parfum 0.50 %
Phase 2-I
Sodium Laureth Sulfate 20.00 %
Decyl Glucoside 5.00 %
Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8.00 %
Laureth-2 2.50 %
Polysorbate-20 1.00 %
Aqua 63.00 %
Parfum 0.50 %
Phase 2-J
Sodium Myreth Sulfate 15.00 %
Lauryl Glucoside 10.00 %
Laureth-2 1.50 %
Aqua 73.00 %
Parfum 0.50 %
Phase 2-K
Emulgade~ CM 20.00 %
Polysorbate 20 0.80 %
Coco-Glucoside 2.50 %
Phenoxyethanol 1.00 %
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Cetylpyridinium Cloride 0.10 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20 %
Aqua 75.22 %
Citric Acid 0.08 %
Parfum 0.10 %
Phase 2-L
Emulgade~ SE-PF 1.66 %
Ceteareth-12 0.94 %
Lamesoft~ PO 65 0.25 %
Paraffinum Liquidum 3.00 %
Cetylpyridinium Cloride 0.05 %
Polysorbate-20 1.00 %
Citric Acid 0.03 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20 %
Nipaguard~ IPF 0.10 %
Aqua 92.66 %
Parfum 0.11 %
Phase 2-M
Emulgade~ SE-PF 1.627 %
Ceteareth-12 0.921 %
Lamesoft~ PO 65 0.245 %
Paraffinum Liquidum 2.940 %
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate2.000 %
Cetylpyridinium Cloride 0.049 %
Polysorbate-20 0.980 %
Citric Acid 0.029 %
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.196 %
Nipaguard0 IPF 0.098 %
Aqua 90.807 %
Parfum 0.108 %
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Example 3
Dry sponge consisting of two parts made of different material are glued
together. One
part is made of liquid cellulose. After drying, the sponge material forms a
layer with the
thickness of 37 mm. The sponge has a surface weight of 70 g/m2 and was
impregnated
with 10 g/m2 of an aqueous phase, which is prepared as set five in example 2.
After
that the material is cut into blocks of 135 x 90 x 37 mm. The other part of
the product
is made of polyurethane with the measures 135 x 90 x 5 mm. After gluing both
parts
together a lipid phase as described in set four of example list 1 is applied
with 5
g/article onto the polyurethane side. The product is wrapped into single packs
to lock
the moisture in.
Example 4
Dry sponge made of a mixture of liquid cellulose and a lipid phase, which is
prepared
as set two in example 1. The sponge has a surface weight of 70 g/m2 and was
cut after
forming into blocks of 135 x 90 x 37 mm. Lipid addition to the cellulose is
set at 5%.
Inside the sponge there is a depot of an aqueous lotion according set three of
example
list 2, which comes out by squeezing the sponge.
25
