Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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METHOD AND KIT FOR MODIFYING THE COLORATION
OF KERATINOUS FIBRES
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to the field of coloring/decoloring keratinous
fibres and
more specifically to a method for permanently modifying the color of
keratinous fibres.
The method of the invention comprises a plurality of compositions, which are
combined
together and applied onto keratinous fibres so as to color and/or decolor it.
The present
invention also relates to a kit comprising such compositions for modifying the
color of
keratinous fibres.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
A large majority of persons, both women and more recently men, color their
hair so as to
either cover grey or permanently modify their natural hair color.
A variety of chemical preparations are available and commonly used to change
the
natural characteristics of hair. Color and style are typically changed using
dyes,
bleaches and permanent-waving preparations. For example, hair color may be non-
permanently (i.e. temporarily), semi-permanently (i.e. lasting several days
only) or
permanently (i.e. lasting until hair re-grows but fading occurs after four to
six weeks)
changed depending on the particular coloring compositions employed. These
chemical
preparations can damage hair.
Permanent color requires harsher conditions to efficiently lighten natural
pigment and
swell the hair, causing cuticles to open. It may be achieved by making use of
oxidative
dyes, bleaching techniques or using a combination of the both simultaneously.
Indeed,
oxidative hair dyes are widely used in the hair industry since they provide
permanent
color to the hair, generally. Upon these harsh conditions, certain physical
properties of
the hair are altered resulting in dry hair.
Permanent hair dye products usually comprise two components, namely a
formulation
containing an alkaline agent and dye intermediates and another containing an
oxidant
such as hydrogen peroxide and other chemical agents. When these types of
products
are to be used, the two components are mixed together and the so obtained
mixture is
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immediately applied onto any type of hair, and such is done without taking
into
consideration whether or not the person's hair is damaged, resistantand/or
previously
chemically treated.
In this connection, known to the Applicant is a plurality of applications
and/or patents
relating to the field of semi- or permanent hair colorations.
Briefly, European patent application EP-A-1 153 598 discloses a two- and three-
part
hair dye. In the two-part hair dye, the first part contains an alkali agent
and a direct dye;
and the second part contains hydrogen peroxide. In the three-part hair dye,
the first part
contains an alkali agent, the second part contains hydrogen peroxide and the
third part
contains a direct dye. In either of these dyes, the first part contains a
first direct dye (A)
selected from a series of very precise chemical formulae; and a second direct
dye (B)
selected from Basic Blue 99, Basic Blue 47, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Blue 3,
Disperse
Blue 7, Disperse Blue 72, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse
Violet 15 and
Disperse Violet 27. These hair dyes are capable of dyeing the hair in a
natural, deep,
brown to black color tone while bleaching the hair.
United States publication no. US 2002/0179109 Al discloses a substantially
ammonia
free hair bleach product. More specifically, the hair bleach product contains
a hydrogen
peroxide developer; a powder activator containing a mixed persulfate oxidizing
system,
and a monoethanolamine alkalizing agent. It is worth mentioning that this hair
bleach
product only operates in conditions wherein the pH is about 10 to 12.
United States publication no. US 2003/0154562 Al discloses a method for
treating hair.
More precisely, the method consists of three steps, wherein the first step
requires
contacting a person's hair with a substantially inactive mixture of oxidative
hair dye
precursors; allowing the mixture to remain in the hair for a period of about
30 seconds to
about 60 minutes; and then applying a developer to the hair in order to
achieve long
lasting hair color change. Contrarily to the invention described later on in
the present
application, the aforementioned US publication requires that the coloring
components
be independently applied onto hair so that the precursors have sufficient time
to diffuse
the colorants onto the hair.
United States patent US 6,706,077 discloses a coloring system for hair and/or
skin
comprises at least three separately packaged components:
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a) a thio compound capable of breaking the S-S bond between cysteine
residues, and an alkaline reagent;
b) a material and/or extract obtainable from the Mucuna plant; and
c) an oxidizing agent.
United States patent US 6,440,177 B1 discloses a single-step process and
composition
of hair bleach, which can lighten hair up to seven levels. This outcome is
achieved by
adding to the bleach mixture, a solution containing basic dye molecules, which
is stable
in the bleach. These dyes fall into the class of water-soluble basic azo
compounds.
PCT patent applications WO 2005/002533 Al and WO 2005/002534 Al disclose a
method for coloring hair to provide more vibrant, natural and long-lasting
color. This
outcome is achieved by carrying out the following sequential steps:
- Contacting the hair with a dye precursor mixture which comprises a primary
intermediate having a pKa in the range from about 3 to about 10 and
optionally a coupler having a pKa in the range from about 3 to about 10. It is
specified that the pH of the precursor mixture is selected such that less than
50% of the molecules comprising the primary intermediate and the coupler are
in their anionic form when they first contact the hair.
- Applying a means for aligning the hair and distributing the dye
precursor
mixture over the hair (in WO 2005/002533 Al only).
- Contacting the hair with a developer mixture capable of inducing
oxidation of
primary intermediate and coupler in the precursor mixture that is in contact
with the hair to form colored species.
Generally speaking, a drawback of using these types of hair coloring systems
mentioned hereinabove is that they contain a high concentration of dye
intermediates
combined with strong alkaline agents and such in a single container. As a
result of the
use of these components, the shelf life of the product is jeopardized every
time the
packaging is open and exposed to oxygen. Moreover, the production and
preparation of
these types of hair coloring systems require special equipment and
considerable
amount of time in order to make them.
Another drawback associated with the hair coloring systems of the prior art is
that they
are not able of selectively treating a particular kind of hair that a person
has. In other
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words, even though the hair coloring systems of the prior art generally treats
all kinds
of hair, they are not capable of selectively treating one type of hair per se,
for example,
resistant, damaged or color treated hair.
Hence, in light of the aforementioned, there is a need for a new hair
coloration or
decoloration system, which by virtue of its design and components, would be
able to
overcome some and preferably all of the aforementioned prior art problems.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a method for modifying the
color of
keratinous fibres which by virtue of its design and components, satisfies the
above-
mentioned needs.
More specifically, the object of the present invention is achieved by
providing a method
for modifying a hair color of a person, the method comprising the steps of:
a) selecting a color modification desired by the person;
b) selecting a composition A according to the color modification selected
in
step a), the composition A comprising a reducing agent, optionally a
coloring compound and optionally an alkalizing agent;
c) determining a type of hair of the person to be colored;
d) selecting a composition B comprising an alkalizing compound, the
composition B having a level of basicity selected based upon the type of
hair determined in step c) and the color modification selected in step a);
e) selecting a composition C comprising an oxidizing compound, the
oxidizing compound being present in amount selected according to the
color modification selected in step a) and the type of hair
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4a
selected in step c);
mixing compositions A, B and C in order to obtain a mixture;
g) applying the mixture to the hair for a suitable period of time for
obtaining
the color modification selected in step a); in which the temperature of the
mixture applied increases progressively from room temperature (RT) to a
temperature ranging from about RT+3 C to about RT +20 C; and
h) removing the mixture from the hair.
Another object of the present invention concerns the use of the mixture as
defined
above for permanently modifying the color of a type of hair, said hair being
selected
from the group consisting of head hair, face hair and body hair.
According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a kit for
modifying a
hair color of a person, the kit comprising:
= a first container comprising a composition A, the composition A
comprising a reducing agent, optionally a coloring compound and
optionally an alkalizing compound,
= a second container comprising a composition B, the composition B
comprising an alkalizing compound with a level of basicity according to a
type of hair of the person, the level of basicity being selected from mild,
regular and strong basicity;
= a third container comprising a composition C, the composition C
comprising an oxidizing compound; and
= written instructions for using the kit.
A further object of the present invention concerns the use of the kit as
defined above
for the permanent modification of the color of hair, said hair being selected
from the
group consisting of head hair, face hair and body hair.
The objects, advantages and other features of the present invention will be
better
understood upon reading of the following non-restrictive description of a
preferred
embodiment thereof, given for the purpose of exemplification only, with
reference to
the accompanying examples.
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In describing the present invention, the following terminology will be used in
accordance
with definitions set out below.
5
As used herein % or wt.% means weight % unless otherwise indicated. When used
herein % refers to weight % as compared to the total weight percent of the
composition
that is being discussed. For example, when % is used to discuss the amount of
an
ingredient that is in the composition which contains the hair coloring
compounds
composition A, this means weight % as compared to the total weight of
composition A.
When weight % of the alkalizing compound in composition B is mentioned, this
means
the weight % as compared to the total weight of composition B. When weight %
of the
oxidizing compound in composition C is mentioned, this means the weight % as
compared to the total weight of composition C. When the ratio of composition A
to
composition B and composition C is discussed this means the ratio of weight %
of
composition A to weight % of composition B to weight % of composition C.
By "about", it is meant that the value of weight %, pH or temperature can vary
within a
certain range depending on the margin of error of the method or device used to
evaluate such weight %, pH or temperature.
By "keratinous fibres", it is meant hair on the head, on the face such as
eyelashes,
eyebrows, beard hair, and on the rest of the body such as pubic hair.
Keratinous fibres
preferably contemplated in the present invention are hair on the head and/or
eyebrows.
The compositions and methods of the present invention are suited to be used to
modify
the color of different "types of hair" such as Asian, Caucasian or African
hair, grey hair
and previously chemically treated hair.
By "chemically treated hair" it is meant hair that has been previously treated
before to
be treated with the method of the present invention. For example, hair has
been
previously permanently waved, straightened, colored or bleached.
By "shade", it is meant the color imparted to the hair by a mixture of dyes
intermediates
and/or direct dyes. The different shades obtained from a combination of dyes
intermediates and/or direct dyes can be described in terms of the "depth of
the shade"
(intensity) and the "tone" (color). The depth of a shade corresponds to the
intensity of
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the color and can be obtained by varying the concentration of dyes
intermediates and/or
direct dyes, while the tone can be adjusted by the combination between primary
intermediates and couplers. Different shades are designated with a letter and
a number.
The letter describes the tone (N for natural or neutral, R for red, A for ash,
G for gold, L
for no tone, etc), while the number refers to the depth of the shade, also
called the level
of the shade. Shade symbols and corresponding definitions are listed herein
below:
Shade symbols Shades
N1 Black
N2 Very Dark Brown
N3 Dark Brown
N4 Medium Brown
N5 Light Brown
N6 Dark Blond
N7 Medium Blond
N8 Light Blond
N9 Very Light Blond
N10 Light Light Blond
Method of the invention
According to an aspect, the present invention provides a method for
permanently
modifying the color of keratinous fibres. Such a method comprises a first step
of
providing a mixture of three compositions A, B and C. Composition A contains
at least a
reducing agent and optionally a coloring compound, composition B contains at
least an
alkalizing compound and composition C contains at least an oxidizing compound.
The
three compositions generate, upon mixing, controllable heat.
Then after, the method of the invention comprises a step of applying the
mixture on the
keratinous fibres for a suitable period of time, and a step of removing the
mixture from
the keratinous fibres for instance with water or a conventional shampoo or a
conventional conditioning shampoo, said suitable period of time can vary in a
range
from Ito 60 minutes, preferable from 15 to 45 minutes, depending on the
compositions
selected for preparing the mixture and of the type of hair.
In accordance with the invention, the mixture preferably contains one part of
composition A with one part of composition B and two parts of compositions C.
The
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amount of each part of each composition is selected by the user according to
the
quantity of keratinous fibres to treat. Compositions A has preferably about an
acidic pH
to about a basic pH, composition B has about a neutral pH to about a basic pH
and
composition C has preferably about an acidic pH to about a neutral pH.
Therefore, the method according to the present invention may comprise at least
two
compositions which are acid. This advantageously ensures against premature
oxidation of the compositions used in accordance with the present invention so
as to
provide increased stability of the same over a period of time. For example, it
is well
known by someone skilled in the art that coloring compounds, such as dye
intermediates, are rapidly oxidized by the oxygen of the air. Therefore, once
the
container is opened, it must be used as soon as possible. The container of
composition
A once properly sealed can be shelved for a long period of time.
It is to be understood that by "a period of time", it is meant the amount of
time in
which compositions A, B and C according to the present invention may be
shelved or
kept in storage without substantial oxidizing, for instance a period up to 2
years.
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It is also to be understood that the mixture of compositions A, B and C of the
present invention
has advantageously exothermic properties. Most of all permanent hair
coloration systems
presently commercialized encounter their first exothermic reaction during the
product
manufacturing (see Example 11), when a single composition containing both the
coloring
compounds, such as dye intermediates and direct dyes, and the alkalizing agent
is prepared.
Therefore the product will cool down until the next exothermic reaction occurs
when the two
parts compositions which are the alkaline color composition and the acid
hydrogen peroxide
solution are mixed together.
According to the present invention, the three compositions A, B and C are
mixed together just
prior to application on the hair in order to advantageously launched at once
multiple chemical
reactions. The temperature of said mixture just after its preparation, which
is equals to the room
temperature, increases of about + 3 C to about +20 C. By "room temperature" it
is meant the
temperature where compositions A, B and C have been stored and said mixture
prepared.
It is well known by someone skilled in the art that the use of heat sources
increases the
brightness of the hair. None of the hair coloring system of the art discloses
such exothermic
properties and therefore, it is necessary for prior art methods to use heat
generated by electrical
appliances in order to obtain equivalent hair color modifications of the
present invention.
It is to be understood that the exothermic properties of the mixture of the
invention also allows
for an improved dye penetration into the keratinous fibres, such as hair, and
thus improve
aesthetic properties such as conditioning and final shine.
It is well known by someone skilled in the art that for a temperature superior
to 40 C, the
hydrogen peroxide will decompose and thus will lose its oxidizing property. As
such a person
may appreciate; the mixture of compositions A, B and C in accordance with the
present
invention will have a temperature that will not increase over 40 C when said
mixture is applied
on keratinous fibres in accordance with the method of the present invention.
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Thus, one of the advantages of using such a method for modifying the color of
keratinous fibres is that it allows a user to choose his or her own
personalized
combination of compositions constituting such method to treat, color and/or
decolor their
type of keratinous fibres, for example damaged, resistant, color treated and
other types
of hair. Such may preferably be done by varying the alkalinity of composition
B
according to the present invention. In other words, depending on the type of
keratinous
fibres to be treated, a user may choose an appropriate composition B to modify
the
color of said keratinous fibres and to obtain the result they want.
This characteristic of the present invention represents an important
improvement in the
art of hair permanent coloration systems.
2) Kit of the invention
According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a kit for
carrying out
the hair coloring method of the invention. The kit comprises compositions A, B
and C as
described here above, in separate containers.
By "container", it is meant any device suitable for containing and preserving
said
compositions shielded from air and light and adapted to said compositions
quantity
and/or viscosity for convenient delivery thereof. For instance, such
containers may be
made of suitable materials, such as the ones encounter in the art of cosmetic
products
and formulation.
The kit may also preferably contain written instructions explaining how to use
compositions A, B, and C of the invention.
3) Compositions A, B and C of the invention:
What follows is a description of preferred ingredients that can be included in
compositions A, B and C according to preferred embodiments of the present
invention.
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Composition A:
In accordance with the present invention, composition A comprises at least a
reducing agent.
Preferably the reducing agent consists of a thio compound. More preferably the
reducing agent
is selected in the group consisting of cysteamine HCI, ammonium thioglycolate
and ammonium
thiolactate.
The most preferred reducing agent for use in accordance with the present
invention is
ammonium thioglycolate.
It is further to be understood that reducing agents present in composition A
of the present
invention when in contact with the oxidizing agents of composition C, such as
hydrogen
peroxide, will produce heat induced by exothermic chemical reactions.
Reducing agent may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about
10.0%,
preferably in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5.0% by weight
relative to the total
weight of the composition A.
The amount of reducing agent in composition A varies according to the
percentage of coloring
compounds presents in the same composition A.
In accordance with the present invention, composition A optionally comprises
coloring
compounds.
It is to be understood by those skilled in the art that when composition A
does not contain
coloring compound, the result of the method of the present invention will be a
decoloration of
keratinous fibres, corresponding to a depigmentation of said keratinous
fibres. It is also to be
understood by those skilled in the art that when composition A contains
coloring compound, the
result of the method of the present invention will be a
decoloration/coloration of keratinous
fibres, corresponding to a depigmentation /pigmentation of said keratinous
fibres.
It will be understood by those skilled in the art that concentrations of
suitable coloring
compounds vary depending on, for example, the intensity of the desired color.
The coloring compounds are preferably present in an amount ranging from about
0.0001%
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=
=
11
to about 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
More preferably, the coloring compounds are selected from the group of dyes
intermediates,
direct dyes and mixtures thereof. Herein after are the dyes intermediates and
direct dyes
preferably contemplated in accordance with the present invention:
- Dye intermediates:
Composition A of the present invention may include one or more oxidative hair
coloring
precursors, agents or dyes. Such oxidative hair coloring agents are used in
combination
with the oxidizing compound of composition C of the present invention to
deliver permanent
hair dye to the hair. Permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are
compositions,
which once applied to the hair, are substantially resistant to washout.
The oxidation dye intermediates, or dye intermediates, used in oxidative dyes
may be
aromatic diamines, naphthols, phenols, aminophenols and their derivatives.
These dye
intermediates can be classified as primary and secondary intermediates,
couplers and
modifiers.
Primary intermediates are chemical compounds, which by themselves will form a
dye upon
oxidation. The secondary intermediates, also known as color modifiers or
couplers, are
used with other intermediates for specific color effects or to stabilize the
color.
The dye intermediates, which are suitable for use in composition A and method,
herein
include aromatic diamines, naphthols, polyhydric phenols, aminophenols and
derivatives of
these aromatic compounds (e.g., N-substituted derivatives of the amines, and
ethers of the
phenols).
Dye intermediates are generally colorless molecules prior to oxidation. The
oxidation dye
color is generated when the primary intermediate is "activated" and
subsequently joined
with a secondary intermediate (coupling agent), which is also generally
colorless, to form
a colored, conjugated molecule. In general terms, oxidation hair dye
precursors or
intermediates include those monomeric materials which, on oxidation, form
oligomers
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or polymers having extended conjugated systems of electrons in their molecular
structure.
Because of the new electronic structure, the resultant oligomers and polymers
exhibit a
shift in their electronic spectra to the visible range and appear colored. For
example,
oxidation dye precursors capable of forming colored polymers include materials
such as
p-phenylenediamine, which has two functional groups, are capable of oxidative
polymerization to yield higher molecular weight colored materials having
extended
conjugated electron systems.
Color modifiers (couplers), such as those detailed hereinafter, are preferably
used in
conjunction with the oxidation dye precursors herein and are thought to
interpose
themselves in the colored polymers during their formation and to cause shifts
in the
electronic absorption spectra thereof, thereby resulting in slight color
changes. A
representative list of oxidation dye precursors suitable for use herein is
found in
Sagarin, "Cosmetic Science and Technology", lnterscience, Special Edition,
Volume 2,
pages 308 to 310.
It is to be understood that the oxidizing aids of the present invention are
suitable for use
(in combination with a source of peroxide as detailed herein) with all manner
of
oxidation dye precursors and color modifiers and that the precursors detailed
below are
only by way of example and are not intended to limit the compositions and
processes
herein.
The typical aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, aminophenols, and
derivatives
thereof, described above as primary dye precursors can also have additional
substituents on the aromatic ring, e.g. halogen, alkyl, alkyl substituted
additional
substituents on the amino nitrogen and on the phenolic oxygen, e.g.
substituted and
unsubstituted alkyl and aryl groups.
Composition A of the present invention may, in addition to the essential
oxidative hair-
coloring agents, optionally include non-oxidative and other dye materials.
Optional non-
oxidative and other dyes suitable for use in the hair coloring compositions
and
processes according to the present invention include semi-permanent, temporary
and
other dyes. Non-oxidative dyes as defined herein include the so-called "direct
dyes",
metallic dyes, metal chelate dyes, fibre reactive dyes and other synthetic and
natural
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dyes as detailed in "Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair", 3rd Edn.
by
Clarence Robbins (pp 250-259); "The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics".
Volume IV. 2nd Edn. Maison G. De dyes. Various types of non-oxidative dyes are
detailed in: 'Navarre at chapter 45 by G. S. Kass (pp 841-920); 'cosmetics:
Science and
Technology' 2nd Edn, Vol. 11 Balsam Sagarin, Chapter 23 by F. E. Wall (pp 279-
343);
'The Science of Hair Care' edited by C. Zviak, Chapter 7 (pp 235-261) and
'Hair Dyes',
J. C. Johnson, Noyes Data Corp., Park Ridge, U.S.A, (1973), (pp 3-91 and 113-
139).
Specific hair dyes which may be included in the compositions as the primary
intermediate includes: 3-methyl-p-aminophenol; 2,3-dimethyl-p-aminophenol; p-
phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine ; 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine; N-phenyl-p-
phenylenediamine; N-2-methoxyethyl-p-phenylene-diamine; N,N-bis-(hydroxyethyl)-
p-
phenylenediamine; 2-hydroxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine; 2-
hydroxyethyl-p-
phenylenediamine; 4,4'-diaminodiphenylamine ; 2,6-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine
; 2-
isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine; N-(2-hydroxypropyI)-p-phenylenediamine; 2-propyl-
p-
phenylene-diamine; 1,3-di-(p-N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyp-aminoanilino)-2-propanol;
2-
methyl-4-dimethylaminoaniline; p-aminophenol; p-methylaminophenol; 2-
hydroxmethyl-
p-aminophenol; 2-methyl-p-aminophenol; 2-(2-
hydroxyethylaminomethyl)-p-
anninophenol; 2-methoxymethyl-paminophenol; and 5-aminosalicylic acid;
catechol;
pyrogallol; o-aminophenol; 2,4-diaminophenol ; 2,4,5-trihydroxytoluene; 1,2,4-
trihydroxy-
benzene; 2-ethylamino-p-cresol; 2,3-dihydroxpaphthalene; 5-methyl-o-
aminophenol; 6-
methyl-o-aminophenol; 2-amino-5-acetaminophenol; 2,5-diaminotoluene; 2-
dimethylamino-5-anninopyridine; tetraaminopyrimidine; 4,5-diamino-1-
methylpyrazole ;
4,5-diamino-1-hydroxyethylpyrazole, 6-methoxy-8-aminoquinoline; 2,6-dihydroxy-
4-
methylpyridine; 5-hydroxy-1,4-benzodioxane; 3,4-methylenedioxyphenol; 4-
hydroxyethylamino-1,2-methylenedioxybenzene; 5-chloro-2,3-dihydroxypyridine; 2-
hydroxyethylamino-6-methoxy-3-aminopyridine; 3,4-methylenedioxyaniline; 7-
hydroxy-
indole; 5-hydroxyindole; 2-bromo-4,5-methylenedioxyphenol; 3-amino-2-
methylamino-
6methoxypyridine; 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine; 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-
triaminopyrimidine, 5-
hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline or combinations thereof.
Preferred primary intermediates for use in the invention include: p-
phenylenediamine; p-
aminophenol; N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine; 2,5-toluenediamine; 2-
methyl-p-aminophenol; 3-methyl-p-aminophenol; 2,3-dimethylp-aminophenol; p-
methylaminophenol; 4,5,-diamino-1-hydroxyethylpyrazole; 2,4,5,6-tetra-
aminopyrimidine;
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4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine; o-aminophenol; N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine
and
mixtures thereof.
The most preferred primary intermediates are p-phenylenediamine; p-
aminophenol; 0-
anninophenol; N,N-bis(hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine; 2,5-toluenediannine; N-
phenyl-p-phenylenediamine and mixtures thereof.
The coupler (or secondary intermediate) is utilized to expand the color range
by
copolymerization with the primary intermediate. These materials can also
accelerate
color formation.
Specific hair dye intermediates that can be used as couplers in the present
invention
include but not limited to 4-amino-m-cresol, 2-amino-4-hydroxy-
ethylaminoanisole, 4-
amino-2-hydroxy-toluene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, m-aminophenol, 2-chloro-p-
phenylene-diamine, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 2-
methylresorcinol, 1-naphthol, 3-nitro-p-hydroxyethyl-aminophenol, 4-nitro-o-
phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-p-phenylene-diamine, phenyl-methylpyrazolone, m-
phenylenediamine, resorcinol, 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethyl-aminophenol and mixtures
thereof.
It should be understood that the descriptions of primary intermediates and
couplers
given above are meant to implicitly include the salt forms of those dye
molecules that
form stable salts. For example, the hydrochloride or sulfate salts in the case
of amines,
and the alkali metal salts in the case of phenols.
- Direct dyes
Direct dyes are colored compounds that can be used to modify the color of a
substrate
by dispersion. Direct dyes are used along with the dyes intermediates to add
vibrancy to
the tone which is not otherwise available if the composition only contains
oxidation dye
intermediates.
The dye composition disclosed herein may also comprise at least one direct dye
that
may be chosen, for example, from nitrobenzene dyes, cationic direct dyes, azo
direct
dyes and methine direct dyes.
CA 02573567 2012-07-23
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the direct dyes
can be
chosen in a group of compounds containing Basic Blue #3, External D & C Violet
#2,
Basic Green #4, Basic Orange #1, Basic Red #22, Red #2, Basic Red #46, Basic
Violet
#13, Basic Violet #1, Basic Yellow #11, Basic Yellow #28, Basic Brown #16,
Basic
Brown #17, Basic Blue #99, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, composition A
optionally
contains an amount of alkalizing compound. Preferably, the alkalizing compound
is
selected in the group consisting of ammonium hydroxide, monoisopropanolamine,
10 monoethanolamine (MEA), aminoethylpropanol, potassium hydroxide, sodium
hydroxide and mixtures thereof. The amount of alkalizing compound that may be
used
in composition A of the present invention is preferably ranging from about 1.0
% to
about 20.0 % of composition A. It is to be understood that the pH of
composition A will
depend on the amount of alkalizing compound used in said composition A.
Preferably,
composition A of the invention has a pH in the range of from about 1.0 to
about 14.0,
preferably from about 6.0 to about 11Ø
According to a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkalizing
compound
used in the present invention is monoethanolamine.
It is to be understood that composition A is either acid or alkaline depending
on
coloring compounds.
Lighter shades which contain lower concentration of coloring compounds are
directly
related to the lightning of keratinous fibres, therefore, the alkalizing agent
is added to
increase the lightning power of the product. The amount of alkalizing compound
is
preferably ranging from 1.0 to 7.0 wt.% of composition A, and thus the pH of
composition A is preferably basic, and more preferably the pH of composition A
is
about 10.5.
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
16
Optionally, the pH of composition A may be adjusted by using an acidifying
solution. It
will be understood that the amount of acidifying solution added in composition
A will
depend on the nature of the acidifying solution itself and the starting pH of
composition
A.
Specific acidifying solutions which may be used to adjust the pH of
composition A of
the present invention preferably contain organic acids. A non-exclusive list
of examples
of organic acids which can be used as the proton donating agent is adipic
acid, tartaric
acid, citric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, glycolic acid,
glutaric acid,
benzoic acid, malonic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid, polyacrylic acid,
their salts, and
mixtures thereof.
The most preferred acidifying solution for use in accordance with the present
invention
is citric acid solution containing about 30 % of citric acid.
Optionally, composition A of the present invention will also contain the
compounds
selected in the group consisting of solvents, thickeners and others optional
ingredients.
More preferably, the thickeners used in composition A of the invention may be
long
chain fatty alcohols having from about 11 to about 18 carbon atoms in the long
fatty
chain, used alone, or in admixture with each other. When included in the
compositions,
the fatty alcohols are preferably present at from about 0.5% to about 20.0 %
by weight
percent of composition A.
Other thickeners suitable for use in the compositions A of the present
invention are
preferably selected from the group consisting of Xanthan gum; Hydrophobically-
modified ethoxylated Urethane (HEUR) such as PEG-150/Stearyl alcohol copolymer
or
Aculyne 46 (from Rohm and Haas, Philadelphia, Pa., USA); alkoxylated alcohols
such
as Ceteareth-20; long chain fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, leyl
alcohol, cetearyl
_
_ , r
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
17
alcohol, stearyl alcohol; Simulgel NS (or hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium
acryloyldimethyl
taurate copolymer (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60), (from Seppic), sodium
chloride and other synthetic thickeners such as Carbopol , Aculyn , Structure
, and
Acrosyl and mixtures thereof. Hydroxyalkylcellulose, such as
hydromethylcellulose and
hydroethylcellulose, are also suitable thickeners for use in compositions A of
the
present invention.
Water, and preferably deionised water, is the preferred principal solvent,
carrier or
diluent for compositions A according to the present invention. Water may be
present in
an amount ranging from about 15% to about 99% by weight relative to the total
weight
of composition A.
As such, composition A according to the present invention may include one or
more
solvents as additional solvent, carrier or diluent materials. Generally, the
solvent is
preferably selected to be miscible with water, to be innocuous to the skin and
to
dissolve dyes intermediates or direct dyes which would not be perfectly
miscible in
water. Solvents suitable for use in accordance with the present invention are
included
but not limited to C1-C20 mono- or polyhydric alcohols and their ethers,
glycerine, with
monohydric and dihydric alcohols and their ethers. In these compounds,
alcohols
preferably contain 2 to 10 carbon atoms. Thus, a particularly preferred group
includes
ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol and
mixtures
thereof, and a more preferable group includes propylene glycol, ethoxydiglycol
and
mixtures thereof.
Propylene glycol may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.1% to about
20%,
preferably in an amount ranging from about 5% to about 15% by weight relative
to the
total weight of composition A. Ethoxydiglycol may be present in an amount
ranging
from about 0.1% to about 30.0%, preferably in an amount ranging from 9.0% to
25.0%
by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
18
Optionally, composition A of the present invention preferably comprise a wide
range of
optional ingredients listed in the group constituting of anticaking agents,
antioxidants,
binders, biological additives, bulking agents, chelating agents, chemical
additives,
colorants, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturants, drug
astringents,
surfactants, emulsifiers, film formers, fragrance components, humectants,
opacifying
agents, plasticizers, preservatives, propellants, foam boosters, hydrotropes,
solubilizing
agents, suspending agents (non surfactant), sunscreen agents, ultraviolet
light
absorbers, and viscosity increasing agents (aqueous and non aqueous). Examples
of
other functional classes of materials useful herein that are well known to one
of
ordinary skill in the art include solubilizing agents, sequestrants, amino
acids,
hydrolysed proteins and the like.
Composition B:
In accordance with the present invention, composition B comprises at least an
alkalizing compound which aids the swelling of the keratinous fibres and
contributes to
the exothermic reaction occurring after the mixing of the three compositions
A, B and
C. Consequently, the alkalinity improves the ability of the keratinous fibres
to absorb
moisture and thus to accept the coloring compounds more readily.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkalizing compound
is
selected in the group consisting of ammonium hydroxide, monoisopropanolamine,
monoethanolamine (MEA), aminoethylpropanol, potassium hydroxide, sodium
hydroxide and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the quantity of alkalizing
compound that
may be used in composition B of the present invention is ranging from about
1.0% to
about 10.0%. It is to be understood that the pH of composition B will depend
on the
amount of alkalizing compound used in said composition B. Preferably,
composition B
of the invention has a pH in the range of from about 7.0 to about 14.0,
preferably from
about 10.0 to about 12Ø
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
19
According to a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkalizing
compound
used in the present invention is monoethanolamine.
Composition B may be provided with at least three different levels of basicity
which are
mild, regular or strong.
For instance, a mild level of basicity is obtained when about 5.0% of
monoethanolamine are used by weight of composition B, which substantially
corresponds to a pH of about 10.9 for composition B; a regular level of
basicity is
obtained when about 6.0% of monoethanolamine are used by weight of composition
B,
which substantially corresponds to a pH of about 11.1 for composition 13; a
strong level
of basicity is obtained when about 7.0% of monoethanolamine are used by weight
of
composition B, which substantially corresponds to a pH of about 11.3 for
composition
B.
Therefore, the user has the possibility of choosing suitable compositions B
depending
on the type of keratinous fibres to be treated and the expected color
modification of the
keratinous fibres.
Optionally, composition B will also contains compounds selected in the group
constituting of solvents, thickeners, optional ingredients and mixtures
thereof. Solvents,
thickeners, optional ingredients and amounts thereof may be the same as
defined
herein above for composition A.
Composition C:
In accordance with the present invention, composition C comprises at least an
oxidizing compound.
,
¨ .
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing compounds
are
generally inorganic peroxygen materials capable of yielding peroxide in an
aqueous
solution. Inorganic peroxygen oxidizing agents are well known in the art and
include
hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium periodate,
sodium
perbromate and sodium peroxide, and inorganic perhydrate salt oxidizing
compounds,
such as the alkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates,
persilicates, persulphates and the like. These inorganic perhydrate salts may
be
incorporated as monohydrates, tetrahydrates etc. Also useful are melamine
peroxide,
sodium perborate, and sodium percarbonate. Mixtures of two or more of such
inorganic
10 peroxygen oxidizing agents can be used. For all of these compounds, the
active
material is active hydrogen peroxide. One skilled in the art would recognize
how much
active hydrogen peroxide is desired in composition C relatively to the amount
of
coloring compounds that are being formulated in composition A and the nature
of the
hair of the user. Therefore, one skilled in the art would be able to calculate
how much
of a peroxide compound to use in accordance with the present invention.
According to a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the
oxidizing
compound used in composition C is hydrogen peroxide (H202).
20 As it is well known by someone skilled in the art, the unit for measuring
the
concentration of hydrogen peroxide is the Volume (Vol.). The volume of a
hydrogen
peroxide solution is the number of litres of oxygen in its gaseous form
released by the
decomposition taking place in a litre of that particular hydrogen peroxide
solution.
Preferably, the different volumes of H202 being part of composition C of the
present
invention are listed in the following table 1:
" _________________________________________________
CA 02573567 2012-07-23
21
Volume Quantity of H202 Final quantity of
H202
50% solution in Compound
C (wt%)
(wt.%)
VoL 2.85 1.43
10 Vol. 5.70 2.85
20 Vol. 11.40 5.70
30 Vol. 17.10 8.55
40 Vol. 22.80 11.40
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the pH of composition C
is in the
range of from about 1.0 or to about 7.0, preferably from about 2.0 to about
4.0; and
more preferably ranging from about 3.2 0.1 to about 3.4 0.1.
Optionally, composition C will also contains compounds selected in the group
constituting of solvents, thickeners, optional ingredients and mixtures
thereof. Solvents,
thickeners, optional ingredients and amounts thereof may be the same as
defined
herein above for composition A.
It is to be understood that, regarding only composition C, the presence of an
oxidizing
compound, such as hydrogen peroxide, makes some of the here before mentioned
thickeners, solvents, alkalizing agents and reducing, not suitable for the
preparation of
composition C. For example, it is well known by someone skilled in the art
that the
viscosity of an aqueous solution containing hydroxyalkylcellulose as
thickener, strongly
decreased because of an important hydrolysis due to a pH of composition C
inferiors to
about 4.0 and the elevated concentration of H202. It is also well known by
someone
skilled in the art that propylene glycol and ethoxidiglycol oxidize in the
presence of
H202.
,
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
22
EXAMPLES
The following examples below, which were made, are shown as illustrations only
and
are not intended to limit the scope of the invention. The below compositions
may be
made by methods which are known in the art.
Example 1: Preferred ingredients constituting composition A
This example, resumed in the following table 2, shows ingredients of
composition A
according to preferred embodiments of the present invention.
Functions Ingredients Quantities (wt.%)
Solvent Deionised Water Balance*
Solvent Propylene Glycol 5.55
Solvent Ethoxydiglycol 18.0
Antioxidant Sodium Sulfite (Inorganic Salt) 1.0
Antioxidant Sodium lsoascorbate (organic Salt) 1.0
Coloring compounds Dyes Intermediates / Direct Dyes* 0 to 10.0*
Reducing Agent Ammonium Thloglycolate
0.01 to 5.0*
Alkalizing compound Monoethanolamine 0 to 7.0*
Chelating Agent Trisodium HEDTA 0.35
Thickener Stearyl Alcohol (Fatty Alcohol) 10.0
Thickener Cetyl Alcohol (Fatty
Alcohol) 10.0
Surfactant Oleic Acid 4.0
Nonionic Surfactant Polysorbate 20 1.5
Colorant Titanium Dioxide 2.0
Preservative DMDM Hydantoin 0.3
Fragrance Fragrance 0.5
Total weight % 100
(*) See Examples 5 to 9 for specific quantities.
Table 2
It is to be understood that the nature and amount of the coloring compounds,
such as
dye intermediates and/or direct dyes, are measured according to the tone and
depth of
the shade.
- __
=
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
23
It is also to be understood that the amount of reducing agent, such as
ammonium
thioglycolate, is measured according to the concentration of coloring
compounds, such
as dye intermediates and/or direct dyes, contained in composition A (depth of
the
shade). (See Example 5 to 9)
According to another embodiment of the present invention, the pH of
composition A
can be adjusted to 6.5 using an acidifier, such as citric acid 30% solution.
Example 2- Preferred ingredients constituting composition B:
This example resumed in the following table 3 shows ingredients of composition
B
according to preferred embodiments of the present invention.
Function ingredients
Quantity (wt.%)
Solvent Deionised water balance
Thickener/Conditioner/Film Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.65
former
Colorant Titanium Dioxide 0.30
Scalp Protector/Conditioner Monoi Oil (Natural extract) 2.0
Humectant Glycerine 1.0
Conditioner Olealkonium Chloride 1.5
Anti-Static/ Conditioner Benzalkonium Chloride 0.5
Surfactant Polysorbate 20 1.5
Preservative DMDM Hydantoin 0.4
Alkalizing Agent Monoethanolamine 5.0,
6.0 or 7.0*
Fragrance Fragrance 0.5
Total weight.% 100
(*) See Example 4 to 9 for specific quantity.
Table 3
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
24
It is to be understood that the amount of alkalizing compound, such as
monoethanolamine, is selected according to the nature of the user hair to
color and
his/her choice for a new hair color (See Examples 4 to 9).
As already mentioned, according to preferred embodiment of the present
invention, the
alkalizing agent is monoethanolamine and according to the amounts used in
composition B, three different level of basicity are defined, such as:
i)
Mild level of basicity (corresponding to 5.0 wt.% of
monoethanolamine in composition B):
This mild level of basicity can be used for treating hair that had been
previously
chemically treated such as chemically straightened hair, permanent waves hair,
color-
treated hair or bleached hair. Such hair is porous and absorbs color quickly.
if)
Regular level of basicity (corresponding to 6.0 wt.% of
monoethanolamine in composition B):
This regular level of basicity can be used for 100% grey coverage and
lightening of
natural pigment up to 3 levels, for example from N4 (Medium Brown shade) to N7
(Medium Blond shade). Tests involved the use of hair swatches such as natural
medium brown, natural light blond, 50% grey hair and bleached hair. However,
final
formula adjustments were done according to tests on human heads.
iii) Strong level of basicity (corresponding to 7.0 wt.% of
monoethanolamine in composition B):
This strong level of basicity can be used for lightening natural pigment up to
5 levels,
for example from N4 (Medium Brown shade) to N9 (Very Light Blond shade) along
with
dyeing process and give extra coverage for very resistant grey hair.
Compositions B were tested on hair swatches and human heads.
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
Example 3- Preferred ingredients constituting composition C:
This example, resumes in the following table 4, shows ingredients of
composition C
according to preferred embodiments of the present invention.
Function Ingredients Quantity (wt.%)
Solvent Deionised Water Balance
Oxidizing compound Hydrogen Peroxyde 2.85 to 22.80*
(50 wt.% solution)
Stabilizer Sodium Stannate 0.01
Surfactant Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 1.00
Opacifier Cetyl Alcohol 1.10
Thickener Stearyl Alcohol 1.00
Emulsifier Ceteareth 5 0.85
Total weight 100
* See Examples 5 to 9
Table 4
It is to be understood that the amount of oxidizing compound, such as hydrogen
10 peroxide, is selected according to the nature of the user hair to color
and his/her choice
for a new hair color (See Examples 5 to 9).
The resulting pH of composition C is ranging from 3.2 0.1 to 3.4 0.1. As
already
mentioned herein above, the preferred oxidizing compound is hydrogen peroxide.
It is
known in the art that hydrogen peroxide is stable in the pH range from 2.0 to
4Ø The
pH of composition C of the present invention is therefore suitable for the
stability of
hydrogen peroxide.
=-= '
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
26
Example 4- A preferred method for using compositions A, B and C for changing
hair color:
This example shows a preferred method for changing color of keratinous fibres,
such
as hair, according to preferred embodiments of the present invention.
According to his/her hair nature, original color and expected final color, the
user selects
suitable compositions A, B and C as preferably described in Examples 1 to 3.
In a preferred non-metallic container, compositions A, B and C mixed together
with a
ratio of about 1:1:2 in weight % of the mixture and then applied on hair
and/or
eyebrows. The amount of each compositions used for preparing the mixture
depends
on the amount of keratinous fibres to treat. The mixture is maintained in the
hair and/or
eyebrows for a suitable period of time from 15 to 45 minutes.
Example 5- A kit for changing the color of virgin natural Dark Brown hair (N3)
containing 50% of grey hair to Natural Light Brown (N5):
This example shows a kit for modifying the color of virgin natural Dark Brown
hair (N3)
including about 50% of grey hair to Natural Light Brown (N5) according to
preferred
embodiments of the present invention.
To reach the desired objective, the selected kit contains:
a) Composition A comprising the basic ingredients listed in Example 1 with
specifically 2.0 wt.% of ammonium thioglycolate and 3.4282 wt.% of dyes.
To obtain Natural light brown (N5), the selected dyes are:
,
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
27
Dyes Quantity (wt.%)
p-Phenylenediamine 1.4787
m-Aminophenol 0.0729
Resorcinol 0.9322
p-Aminophenol 0.4095
2-Methylresorcinol 0.1782
4-Chlororesorcinol 0.3567
Table 5
The resulting pH of compound A is about 6.5 0,1.
b) In this particular example, composition B contains the basic ingredients
listed
in Example 2, with specifically 6.0 wt.% of Monoethanolamine (which
correspond to a Regular level of basicity) to cover resistant grey hair. The
resulting pH of compound B is 11.1 0.1.
c) In this particular example, only two levels of keratin lightning is
required (from
N3 to N5). Therefore, composition C comprises the basic ingredients listed in
Example 3, and specifically requires 11.40 wt.% of hydrogen peroxide 50 wt.%
solution (20 Volume). The resulting pH of compound C is from 3.2 0.1 to 3.4
0.1.
In this particular case, the mixture of compositions A, B and C is prepared as
disclosed
in Example 4 and applied on hair and/or eyebrows for 45 5 minutes. The
exothermic
reaction occurs when the three compositions are mixed together. The heat
generated
lasts until processing time is completed. In this particular example, the
temperature
increased by (8 1) C from 23 C (room temperature) to 310
.
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
28
Example 6- A kit for changing color of permanent waved natural Dark Blond hair
(N6), free of grey hair, to Violet Red (R3):
This example shows a kit for modifying the color of permanent waved natural
Dark
Blond hair (N6), free of grey hair, to Violet Red (R3), according to preferred
embodiments of the present invention.
To reach the desired objective, the selected kit contains:
a) Composition A containing the ingredients listed in Example 1, with
specifically
2.0 wt.% of ammonium thioglycolate and 2.9584 wt.% of dyes. To obtain Violet
Red (R3) colored hair, the selected dyes are:
Dyes Quantity (wt.%)
p-Phenylenediamine 1.1387
4-Amino-2-hydroxytoluene 1.2967
p-Aminophenol 0.2070
2-Methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol 0.3160
Table 6
The resulting pH of compound A is about 6.5 0.1.
b) In this particular example, composition B contains the ingredients listed
in
Example 2, with specifically 5.0 wt.% of Monoethanolamine (Mild level of
basicity) to cover chemically treated hair (permanent waved hair). The
resulting
pH of compound B is 10.9 0.1.
c) In this particular example, no keratin lightning is required (N-6 to R-3).
Therefore, composition C comprises the different ingredients listed in Example
3, and specifically requires 5.70 wt.% of hydrogen peroxide 50 wt.% solution
(10
Volume). The resulting pH of compound C is from 3.2 0.1 to 3.4 0.1.
"
,
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
= 29
In this particular example the mixture of compositions A, B and C is applied
on hair
and/or eyebrows for 25 5 minutes. The exothermic reaction occurs when the
three
compositions are mixed together. The heat generated lasts until processing
time is
completed. In this particular example, the temperature increased by (7 1) C
from
26 C (room temperature) to 33 C
Example 7- A kit for changing the color of virgin natural Dark Blond hair
(N6),
free of grey hair, to Light, Light Ash Blond (A10):
This example shows a kit for modifying the color of virgin natural Dark Blond
hair (N6),
free of grey hair, to Light, Light Ash Blond (A10), according to preferred
embodiments
of the present invention.
To reach the desired objective, the selected kit contains:
a) Composition A containing the ingredients listed in Example 1, with
specifically
5.0 wt.% of ammonium thioglycolate, 0.5050 wt.% of dyes and 7% of
monoethanolamine to obtain Light, Light Ash Blond hair color (A10), the
selected dyes are:
Dyes Quantity (wt.%)
p-Phenylenediamine 0.0905
2-Amino-4-hydroxyethylamino anisol sulphate 0.0092
4-Amino-m-cresol 0.0137
Resorcinol 0.0655
p-Aminophenol 0.0032
4-Chlororesorcinol 0.0032
1-Naphtol 0.0037
Eternal D & C violet #2 0.3160
Table 7
The resulting pH of compound A is about 10.5 0.1.
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
b) In this particular example, composition B comprises the ingredients listed
in
Example 2, with specifically 7.0 wt.% of Monoethanolamine (Strong level of
basicity) for lightning natural Dark Blond (N6) hair color.
The resulting pH of compound B is 11.3 0.1.
c) In this particular example, four levels of keratin lightning is required (N-
6 to A-
10). Therefore, composition C comprises the ingredients listed in Example 3
and
specifically required 17.10wt. % of hydrogen peroxide 50 wt.% solution (30
10 Volume). The resulting pH of compound C is from 3.2 0.1 to 3.4
0.1.
The mixture of compositions A, B and C is prepared as disclosed in Example 4
and
applied on hair and/or eyebrows for 35 5 minutes. The exothermic reaction
occurs
when the three compositions are mixed together. The heat generated lasts until
processing time is completed. In this particular example, the temperature
increased by
(8 1) C from 23 C (room temperature) to 31 C.
Example 8- A kit for changing the color of virgin natural Medium Brown hair
(N4),
free of grey hair, to Light Blond (N8):
This example shows a kit for changing the color of virgin natural Medium Brown
hair
(N4), free of grey hair, to Light Blond (N8), according to preferred
embodiments of the
present invention.
To reach the desired objective, the selected kit contains:
a) Composition A containing the ingredients listed in Example1 , with
specifically 5.0 wt.% of ammonium thioglycolate, 1.0150 wt.% of dyes
and 7% of monoethanolarnine to obtain hair with Light Blond color
(N8), the selected dyes are:
= ,
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
31 =
Dyes Quantity (wt.%)
p-Phenylenediamine 0.2546
m-Aminophenol 0.0029
Resorcinol 0.2341
2-Methylresorcinol 0.0077
4-Chlororesorcinol 0.0157
o-Aminophenol 0.5000
Table 8
The resulting pH of compound A is about 10.5 0.1.
b) Composition B comprising the ingredients listed in Example 2, with
specifically 6.0 wt.% of Monoethanolamine (Regular level of basicity) for
lightning natural Medium Brown (N4) hair color. The resulting pH of compound B
is 11.1 0.1.
c) In this particular example, four levels of keratin lightning is required (N-
4 to N-
8). Therefore, composition C comprises the ingredients listed in Example 3 and
specifically requires 22.80 wt.% of hydrogen peroxide 50 wt.% solution (40
Volume). The resulting pH of compound C is from 3.2 0.1 to 3.4 0.1.
The mixture of compositions A, B and C is applied on hair and/or eyebrows for
35 5
minutes. The exothermic reaction occurs when the three compositions are mixed
together. The heat generated lasts until processing time is completed. In this
particular
example, the temperature increased by 13 1 C from 24 C (room temperature) to
37 C.
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
32
Example 9- A kit for the decoloration of virgin natural Medium Brown hair
(N4),
free of grey hair, to Very Light streaks (L9):
This example shows a kit for lightening virgin natural Medium Brown hair (N4),
free of
grey hair. This application lightens up to five levels to Very Light Blond
(L9), according
to preferred embodiments of the present invention.
To reach the desired objective, the selected kit contains:
a) Composition A containing the ingredients listed in Example1, with
specifically
5.0 wt.% of ammonium thioglycolate and 7.0 % of monoethanolamine. In that
particular application, composition A does not contain dyes. The resulting pH
of
compound A is about 10.5 0.1.
b) Composition B comprising the ingredients listed in Example 2, with
specifically 7.0 wt.% of monoethanolamine (Strong level of basicity) for
lightning
natural Medium Brown (N4) hair color. The resulting pH of compound B is 11.3
0.1.
c) In this particular example, five levels of keratin lightning is required (N-
4 to
Level 9). Therefore, composition C comprises the ingredients listed in Example
3 and specifically requires 22.80 wt.% of hydrogen peroxide 50 wt.% solution
(40 Volume). The resulting pH of compound C is from 3.2 0.1 to 3.4 0.1.
The mixture of compositions A, B and C is prepared as disclosed in Example 4
and is
prepared as disclosed in Example 4 and applied on hair and/or eyebrows for 35
5
minutes. The exothermic reaction occurs when the three compositions are mixed
together. The heat generated lasts until processing time is completed. In this
particular
example, the temperature increased by 13 1 C from 25 C (room temperature) to
38 C.
_
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
=
33
Example 10- Influence of the reducing agent on the increase of temperature:
This example shows how the presence of the reducing agent in composition A
influences the increase of the temperature, according to preferred embodiments
of the
present invention.
An exothermic reaction occurs between the reducing agent present in
composition A,
such as ammonium thioglycolate, the alkalizing compound present in composition
B,
such as the monoethanolamine, and the oxidizing compound present in
composition C,
such as hydrogen peroxide. All results are based on a starting room
temperature of
24 C.
Three different dyes loadings (weight) corresponding to three different
desired shades
have been tested (See Table 9).
Dyes intermediates Ammonium Hydrogen Optimal Range of
loading (wt.%) Thioglycolate Peroxide
temperature temperature
(wt.%) (wt.%) ( C t 1 C) ( C 1
C)
8.0 0 1.5 27 +3
(Black Shade) 0.8 1.5 28 +4
4.5 0 1.5 27 +3
(Brown shade) 2.0 1.5 30 +6
1.03 0 6 28 +4
(Light blond shade) 5.0 6 35 +13
0.24 0 12 29 +5
(Light, light blond 5.0 12 37 +/3
shade)
Table 9
It is to be understood that in the absence of ammonium thioglycolate, the
range of
temperature varies only from +1 C to +6 C, where in the presence of ammonium
thioglycolate; the range of temperature varies from +4 C to +13 C
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
34
In fact, the range variation depends on the percentage of ammonium
thioglycolate
contained in the shade formulation, monoethanolamine concentration and
hydrogen
peroxide concentration. This range includes all shades containing a dye
concentration
between 0.24% and 8.0%.
It is also to be understood that the percentage of ammonium thioglycolate is
calculated
taking in consideration the concentration of monoethanolamine used in
composition B
and the concentration of hydrogen peroxide used in composition C. Therefore,
under
normal conditions and proper use, no over-heating of the mixture occurs. It is
due to
this safety measure that temperature varies. Indeed, when concentration of
hydrogen
peroxide decreases so will the temperature.
Example 11: Comparison between the kit of the present invention with those of
the prior art.
This example shows some temperature increases comparison between a kit
according
to preferred embodiments of the present invention with products from the prior
art.
It is important to mention that for each comparison, several tests were
performed by
using the same level shade and same quantity of oxidizing compound, such as 6
wt.%
hydrogen peroxide.
CA 02573567 2011-06-23
Shade Tone Companies
and Level
Vernico Voila Framcolor : Schwarzkopf L'Oreal
Medium 29C 21.5C N/A N/A N/A
Reddish
Brown (4.66)
Natural Dark 29'C N/A 22.5C N/A N/A
Brown (N-3)
Medium Ash 29'C N/A N/A 21.5*C N/A
Brown (A-4)
Tropical Red 29'C N/A N/A N/A 22'C
(4.65)
Table 10
Four distinct shades from four different companies were color matched and
tested for
degree of exothermic reaction. Products' temperature before mixing with
oxidizer is
21T.
