Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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TITLE OF THE INVENTION
COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGIC COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING
MICROSPHERES
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] The present application claims priority to U.S. provisional
application 60/783,826, filed March 21, 2006, the entire contents of which is
hereby incorporated by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The present invention generally relates to cosmetic or
dermatologic compositions comprising a microsphere and a film forming
component. Such compositions possess improved cosmetic or dermatologic
properties and characteristics such as, for example, increasing eyelash length
and/or volume, improving the hold of the shape or curl of hair/eyelashes,
permitting hair or eyelashes to be reshaped into the original style without
reapplying a hair or eyelash styling composition and/or heat, or increasing
transfer-resistance, waterproofing and/or long-wear properties.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0003] Fixing keratin materials such as hair and eyelashes in place is an
important element in styling, and this generally involves either fixing a
shape that
has already been styled, or simultaneously shaping and fixing of the keratin
material. While styling compositions currently on the market are generally
effective in holding the keratin material in a desired shape or configuration,
many
are not designed to allow the style to be later modified to a desired shape or
reshaped into the original style without reapplying a styling composition
and/or
heat. Moreover, under various kinds of stress, styles resulting from the use
of
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conventional products have a tendency to take on an undesirable permanent set,
which cannot easily be modified.
[0004] U.S. Patent No. 6,548,051 and U.S. patent application publication
nos. 2002/0059941 and 2006/0024255 address such shortcomings of traditional
styling composition by providing reshapable hair styling compositions.
[0005] While there have been pioneering advances in hair styling
products by the introduction of such reshapable hair care systems, further
improvement remains desirable. Further advances in adjusting the degree of
adhesion and improving the overall look, feel and manageability of hair are
still
worthy, if not lofty goals.
[0006] Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a care and/or
makeup and/or treatment composition for keratin materials such as hair,
eyelashes, skin, lips and nails which is able to address or overcome at least
some of the problems generally associated with cosmetic or dermatologic
compositions such as, for example, not allowing for reshapability, poor
transfer-
resistance or adhesion, poor hold characteristics, etc.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0007] The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatologic
compositions comprising a microsphere and a film forming component.
[0008] The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatologic
compositions which are free of, essentially free of or substantially free of
non-
adhesive particles comprising a microsphere and a film forming component.
[0009] The present invention also relates to compositions for eyelashes
such as mascaras, topcoats and basecoats comprising a microsphere and a film
forming component.
[0010] The present invention also relates to compositions for hair such as
sprays, mousses, styling gels, leave-on conditioners, shampoos, conditioners,
permanent waving compositions, hair care products, hair treatment products,
and
hair styling products comprising a microsphere and a film forming component.
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[0011] The present invention also relates to compositions for skin or lips
such as a foundation, lipstick, liquid lip color, topcoat or basecoat
comprising a
microsphere and a film forming component.
[0012] The present invention also relates to methods of improving
performance properties of compositions for keratin materials such as, for
example, transfer-resistance, long-wear and/or waterproofing, comprising
combining in a cosmetic or dermatologic composition a microsphere and a film
forming component.
[0013] The present invention also relates to methods of increasing
eyelash or hair volume, strength and/or length comprising applying to
eyelashes
or hair an eyelash or hair volume-, strength and/or length-increasing
effective
amount of a composition comprising a microsphere and a film forming
component.
[0014] The present invention also relates to methods of styling a keratin
material such as hair or eyelashes comprising applying to the keratin material
a
keratin material styling effective amount of a composition comprising a
microsphere and a film forming component.
[0015] The present invention also relates to methods of restyling,
reshaping or repeatedly fixing a keratin material such as hair or eyelashes
comprising initially applying to the keratin material a keratin material
styling
effective amount of a composition comprising a microsphere and a film forming
component, and subsequently restyling, reshaping or repeatedly fixing the
keratin
material without reapplying the composition to the keratin material.
[0016] The present invention also relates to methods of holding the
shape or curl of a keratin material such as hair or eyelashes comprising
applying
to the keratin material a shape or curl holding effective amount of a
composition
comprising a microsphere and a film forming component.
[0017] The present invention further relates to methods of making-up
keratin materials such as eyelashes, nails, skin or lips comprising applying
an
eyelash, nail, skin or lip making-up effective amount of a composition
comprising
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a microsphere and a film forming component, to eyelashes, nails, skin or lips
in
need of such making-up.
[0018] The present invention also relates to methods of treating or caring
for keratin materials such as eyelashes, nails, hair, skin or lips by applying
compositions of the present invention to the eyelashes, nails, hair, skin or
lips in
an amount sufficient to treat and/or care for the eyelashes, nails, hair, skin
or lips.
[0019] The present invention further relates to methods of enhancing the
appearance of keratin materials such as eyelashes, nails, hair, skin or lips
by
applying compositions of the present invention to the eyelashes, nails, hair,
skin
or lips in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the eyelashes,
nails,
hair, skin or lips.
[0020] In certain embodiments, the present invention facilitates imparting
at least one desirable property such as, without limitation, reduced tactile
stickiness, luster, shine, silky feel or appearance to keratin materials. In a
particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides formulations
that facilitate imparting at least one desirable property to keratin materials
like
hair and eyelashes such as, without limitation, reduced tactile stickiness,
luster,
shine, silky feel and/or appearance, while substantially maintaining the
keratin
material's fixability and reshapability.
[0021] It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description
and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and
are not restrictive of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0022] As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more
and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
[0023] "Cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium that is
compatible with any keratin material, such as the skin, the hair, the nails,
the
eyelashes, the eyebrows, the lips and any other area of body or facial skin.
[0024] "Transfer resistance" as used herein refers to the quality exhibited
by compositions that are not readily removed by contact with another material,
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such as, for example, a glass, an item of clothing or the skin, for example,
when
eating or drinking. Transfer resistance may be evaluated by any method known
in the art for evaluating such. For example, transfer resistance of a
composition
may be evaluated by a "kiss" test. The "kiss" test may involve application of
the
composition to human lips followed by "kissing" a material, for example, a
sheet
of paper, after expiration of a certain amount of time following application,
such
as 2 minutes after application. Similarly, transfer resistance of a
composition may
be evaluated by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other
substrate, such as transfer from the neck of an individual to a collar after
the
expiration of a certain amount of time following application. The amount of
composition transferred to the substrate (e.g., collar, or paper) may then be
evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer resistant
if
a majority of the product is left on the wearer, e.g., lips, neck, etc.
Further, the
amount transferred may be compared with that transferred by other
compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
[0025] "Long wear" compositions as used herein, refers to compositions
where at least one property chosen from consistency, texture, and color
remains
the same as at the time of application, as viewed by the naked eye, after an
extended period of time, such as, for example, 1 hour, 2 hours, and further
such
as 8 hours. Long wear properties may be evaluated by any method known in the
art for evaluating such properties. For example, long wear may be evaluated by
a
test involving the application of a composition to human skin (including lips)
and
evaluating the consistency, texture and color of the composition after an
extended period of time. For example, the consistency, texture and color of a
lip
composition may be evaluated immediately following application and these
characteristics may then be re-evaluated and compared after an individual has
worn the lip composition for a certain amount of time. Further, these
characteristics may be evaluated with respect to other compositions, such as
commercially available compositions.
[0026] "Waterproof' as used herein refers to the ability to repel water
and permanence with respect to water. Waterproof properties may be evaluated
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by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, a
mascara composition may be applied to false eyelashes, which may then be
placed in water for a certain amount of time, such as, for example, 20
minutes.
Upon expiration of the pre-ascertained amount of time, the false eyelashes may
be removed from the water and passed over a material, such as, for example, a
sheet of paper. The extent of residue left on the material may then be
evaluated
and compared with other compositions, such as, for example, commercially
available compositions. Similarly, for example, a composition may be applied
to
skin, and the skin may be submerged in water for a certain amount of time. The
amount of composition remaining on the skin after the pre-ascertained amount
of
time may then be evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be
waterproof if a majority of the product is left on the wearer, e.g.,
eyelashes, skin,
etc.
[0027] "Tackiness" as used herein refers to measuring the maximum
tensile force, Fmax, required while separating two surfaces. Depending on the
application envisaged and the formulation being designed, the desirable value
for
Fmax may vary. In some embodiments, the substantially non-tacky compositions
have a Fmax of less than about 4 Newton (N), less than about 1 N, less than
about
0.5 N, less than about 0.3 N, less than about 0.2 N or less than 0.1 N. One of
ordinary skill in the art can determine the Fmax of the composition by, for
example,
determining the maximum force of traction, measured with an extensiometer of
the LLOYD model LR5K type, needed to detach two surfaces.
[0028] For example, two 38 mm2 surfaces, A and B, which are solid,
rigid, inert, and non-absorbing, are mounted on movable mounts, facing each
other. The surfaces may be movable either toward or away from each other, or
one may move surface A independently from surface B or vice versa. Prior to
insertion into the extensiometer, surface A is coated with the composition to
be
measured, which may be dissolved in a solvent such as aqueous, hydroalcoholic,
hydrocarbon, silicone, and alcoholic solvents in a concentration of from about
10
to about 30%, preferably 20%, the surface A is coated in a thickness of from 1
to
mil, preferably 1 mil, and the surface is dried for 24 hours at room
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temperature, e.g., 22 to 25 C, at a relative humidity of about 50%. Once
inserted
in the extensiometer, surface A is subjected for 20 seconds to a compression
force of 3 N against surface B and then subjected for 30 seconds to tensile
force
at a rate of 20 mm/minute. The amount of force, Finax, needed to obtain
initial
separation is then noted. A mean Fmax is determined by carrying out the
procedure with multiple pairs, preferably at least six pairs, of surface A and
surface B.
[0029] The term "reshapable" means to provide a hairstyle (fixability)
and/or hold that can be restored or modified without additional material or
heat
being applied. This does not mean that additional product and/or heat may not
be applied. It may be desirable to add heat and/or additional styling
compositions in terms of speed, ease of use, if hair becomes unduly wet or
dirty,
is excessively combed, brushed or manipulated, washed, or when hair is to be
dramatically restyled. At least some of the compositions in accordance with
the
invention should be reshapable, as judged by a professional hair stylist of
ordinary skill, for at least 4 hours and up to 24 hours or more after initial
application. Preferably and merely for example, in order to restore or modify
the
hairstyle in case of "drooping" or loss of setting (dishevelment), no new
materials,
such as water or any form of fixing agent, or heat are required. Other terms,
which may be synonymous with reshapable, include repositionable, remoidable,
restyleable, rearrangeable, and remodellable. The term "reshapable" also
means to provide a hairstyle that can retain or hold a desired shape or
configuration until water, heat, time and/or physical contact destroys the
desired
shape or configuration.
[0030] The cosmetic compositions and methods of the present invention
can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and
limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or
optional
ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or any otherwise
useful
ingredient found in personal care compositions intended for application to
keratin
materials.
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[0031] The composition of the present invention may be in any form. For
example, it may be a paste, a solid or a cream. The composition of the
invention
may be transparent or clear, including for example, a composition without
pigments. The composition can also be a molded composition or cast as a stick
or a dish. The composition in one embodiment is a solid such as a molded stick
or a poured stick. The compositions of the present invention may also be in
the
form of a lip composition such as a lipstick or a liquid lip color, a
foundation, a
mascara product, a hair gel, a hair mousse, or a hair spray (aerosol or non-
aerosol).
[0032] As defined herein, stability is tested by placing the composition in
a controlled environment chamber for 8 weeks at 25 C. In this test, the
physical
condition of the sample is inspected as it is placed in the chamber. The
sample
is then inspected again at 24 hours, 3 days, 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8
weeks. At each inspection, the sample is examined for abnormalities in the
composition such as phase separation if the composition is in the form of an
emulsion. The stability is further tested by repeating the 8-week test at 40
C,
37 C, 45 C, 50 C and/or under freeze-thaw conditions. A composition is
considered to lack stability if in any of these tests an abnormality that
impedes
functioning of the composition is observed. The skilled artisan will readily
recognize an abnormality that impedes functioning of a composition based on
the
intended application.
[0033] Microsphere
[0034] According to the present invention, compositions comprising at
least one microsphere are provided. Preferably, the microspheres have
adhesive properties and/or are not film forming agents. Most preferably, the
microspheres have adhesive properties and are not film forming agents.
Suitable
microspheres include but are not limited to Gel Tac microspheres (available
from
API) such as, for example, those found in Gel Tac commercial products Gel Tac
100 A, Gel Tac 100 B, Gel Tac 100 C, Gel Tac 100 K and Gel Tac 205D, as well
as those microspheres disclosed in U.S. patent application publication nos.
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2006/0024255 and 2002/0041858, the entire contents of both of which are
hereby incorporated by reference.
[0035] The microspheres of the present invention are preferably
prepared via suspension polymerization of one or more free radical
polymerizable monomers in the presence of surfactants, polymerization
initiators
and/or suspension stabilizers. Most preferably, the microspheres are prepared
by suspension polymerization of acrylic monomers in the presence of a
polymerization initiator. Suitable methods of preparing the microspheres are
disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 3,691,140, U.S. Pat. No. 4,166,152, U.S. Pat. No.
4,495,318, U.S. Pat. 4,598,112, U.S. Pat. No. 4,786,696, U.S. Pat. No.
4,839,416, U.S. Pat. No. 4,968,562, U.S. Pat. No. 5,045,569, U.S. Pat. No.
5,571,617, U.S. Pat. No. 5,409,977, U.S. Pat. No. 5,656,705, U.S. Pat. No.
5,719,247 and/or U.S. patent application publication no. 2003/0109630, the
entire contents of all of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
[0036] Preferably, monomers should be chosen to yield microspheres
having a glass transition temperature (Tg) below -20 C. Such monomer choice
provides the microspheres with improved adhesive properties.
[0037] According to preferred embodiments, the microspheres
are prepared by homo- or co-polymerization of monomer(s) selected from the
group consisting of acrylates, methacrylates, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,
acrylamides, acrylonitriles, pyrrolidones, vinyl esters, and mixtures thereof.
For
example, monomers which may be used to prepare the microspheres include,
but are not limited to, alkyl acrylates such as butyl acrylate, ethyl
acrylate, methyl
acrylate, and 2-ethylhexylacrylate, alkyl methacrylates such as methyl
methacrylate and butyl methacrylate, polar comonomers such as acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, hydroxyethyl acrylate, hydroxypropyl acrylate, N-tertiary
octylacrylamide, acrylonitrile, acrylamide, 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone, sodium
vinyl
sulfonate, vinyl esters such as vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate, vinyl
neodecanoate, vinyl stearate and vinyl pivalate. Cross-linking monomers such
as, for example, butanediol diacrylate and hexanediol diacrylate can also be
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used. Other useful monomers and combinations thereof which can be used in the
practice of the invention would be apparent to one skilled in the art.
[0038] Polymerization initiators useful in microsphere polymerization
include, but are not limited to, dialkyl peroxides such as lauroyl peroxide
(Laurox
from Akzo Nobel), diacyl peroxides such as dibenzoyl peroxide (Lucidol A75
from
Elf Atochem), peroxyesters such as t-amyl peroxypivalate (Lupersol 554-M50
from Elf Atochem), t-butyl peroctoate (Luperox 26 from Elf Atochem and
Trigonox
21 from Akzo Chemicals), azo compounds such as 2,2'-azobis(isobutyronitrile)
(VAZO 64) and 2,2'-azobis(2-methylbutanenitrile) (VAZO 67), and 2,2'-
azobis(2,4-dimethylpentanenitrile) (VAZO 52), all from DuPont. Other useful
initiators and combinations thereof which can be used in the practice of the
invention would be apparent to one skilled in the art.
[0039] According to particularly preferred embodiments of the present
invention, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate (monomer) and t-butyl peroctoate (as
initiator)
are used to prepare the micropsheres as described in U.S. patent application
publication no. 2003/0109630, the entire contents of which is hereby
incorporated by reference.
[0040] Microspheres of the present invention may be of widely varied
shapes such as spheres, spheroids, platelets, and irregularly shaped
particles.
The size of the micropshere is usually described in terms of its length and/or
width. In the context of the present invention, "length" of the microsphere is
intended to mean the maximum distance possible to be measured by appropriate
microscopy techniques, between two opposing points of the microsphere. The
"width" of the microsphere is intended to mean the minimum distance possible
to
be measured by appropriate microscopy techniques, between two opposing
points of the microsphere.
[0041] In one embodiment, the microspheres have a ratio of length to
width of greater than or equal to about 1:1.
[0042] In another embodiment, the microspheres have a mean length of
about 1 to about 1000 microns, preferably from 1 to less than 30 microns,
preferably from 30 to 1000 microns, preferably from 30 to 100 microns, and
more
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preferably from about 30 to about 50 microns. The mean length of the
microspheres may be measured by the following methods: optical microscopy,
sieving, sedimentation, radiant diffusion, absorption, Coulter's principle,
laser
light diffraction, X-ray, and Sensing-zone method, which are described by
Clyde
Orr, "Size Measurement of Particles," in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical
Technology, vol. 21, pp. 106-131 (3'd ed. 1983) and by Terry Allen, "Analyse
et
Caracterisation, Technique de l'ingenieur" in Etudes de Structure-
Granulometrie,
vol.12, pp.1040-9 to 1040-26 (1996). In one embodiment, optical microscopy is
used to determine the mean length of the microsphere.
[0043] Preferably, the microspheres are present in an amount ranging
from about 0.5% to about 40% by weight of the total weight of the composition,
more preferably from about 1% to about 30% of the total weight of the
composition, more preferably from about 2% to about 20% of the total weight of
the composition, and most preferably from about 3% to about 15%, including all
ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0044] Film Forming Component
[0045] According to the present invention, compositions comprising a film
forming component are provided. The film forming component comprises at least
one film forming agent, perhaps two, three or more film forming agents. In one
preferred embodiment, one film forming agent is present. In another preferred
embodiment, two film forming agents are present. Any substance capable of
forming a film upon application to keratin materials and having a glass
transition
temperature (Tg) can be used as a film forming agent in accordance with the
present invention.
[0046] Although not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is
believed that the film forming component according to the present invention
provides a matrix-like environment on or around keratin materials, and that
this
environment enables the microspheres to remain on or around the keratin
materials and to impart their characteristics on the keratin materials for a
longer
period of time. Thus, according to preferred embodiments of the present
invention, sufficient film forming component is present in the invention
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compositions to improve and/or lengthen the micropsheres' effect on the
keratin
materials to which the compositions have been applied. It is also believed
that
the film forming component improves the cosmetic effects of compositions
containing microspheres. For example, the film forming component of the
present invention reduces tackiness of compositions containing microspheres of
the present invention.
[0047] According to preferred embodiments, the film forming component
comprises at least two film forming agents. In such embodiments, the at least
two film forming agents are preferably chosen to create an environment which
improves and/or lengthens the micropsheres' effect on the keratin materials to
which the compositions of the present invention have been applied, and/or
which
improves the cosmetic properties the compositions of the present invention.
[0048] According to one such embodiment, the at least two film forming
agents possess substantially different glass transition temperatures (Tgs).
For
example, the Tgs of the two film forming agents differ by at least about 20 C,
30 C, 40 C, 50 C, 60 C, 70 C, 80 C, 90 C, including all ranges and subranges
therebetween. Most preferably, one film forming agent has a Tg below about -
20 C and the other film forming agent has a Tg above about 0 C.
[0049] According to another such embodiment, one of the film forming
agents possesses a glass transition temperature (Tg) which is greater than 0
C,
while the other film forming agent possesses a Tg which is less than 0 C.
Examples of Tgs for film forming agents above 0 C include but are not limited
to
C, 20 C, 30 C, 40 C, 50 C, 60 C, 70 C, 80 C, 90 C, including all ranges and
subranges therebetween. Examples of Tgs for film forming agents below 0 C
include but are not limited to -10 C, -20 C, -30 C, -40 C, -50 C, -60 C, -70
C, -
80 C, -90 C, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0050] According to other preferred embodiments, the film forming
component comprises at least one film forming agent. In a particularly
preferred
embodiment, the Tg of the one film forming agent is less than 0 C. Examples of
Tgs for film forming agents below 0 C include but are not limited to -10 C, -
20 C,
-30 C, -40 C, -50 C, -60 C, -70 C, -80 C, -90 C, including all ranges and
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subranges therebetween. In such embodiments, the at least one film forming
agent is preferably chosen to create an environment which improves and/or
lengthens the micropsheres' effect on the keratin materials to which the
compositions of the present invention have been applied, and/or which improves
the cosmetic properties the compositions of the present invention.
[0051] Suitable film forming agents for use in accordance with the
present invention include, but are not limited to, polyorganosiloxane
containing
polymers such as polysilicone polyamides or polysilicone polyurethanes;
silicone
resins (preferably, MK or MQ resin), silicone/(meth)acrylate copolymers,
acrylates/dimethicone copolymers, liquid siloxy silicates and silicone esters
such
as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 5,334,737, the disclosure of which is
hereby
incorporated by reference, silicone polymers comprising a backbone chosen from
vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and acrylic polymers and at least one
chain chosen from pendant siloxane groups and pendant fluorochemical groups,
such as those disclosed in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,209,924 and 4,972,037, and WO
01/32737, the disclosures of which are hereby incorporated by reference in
their
entirety, a copolymer chosen from vinyl-silicone graft copolymers such as
those
polymers described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,468,477, the entire disclosure of which
is
hereby incorporated by reference.
[0052] Suitable film forming agents for use in accordance with the
present invention are also disclosed in U.S. patent application publication
no.
2004/0170586, the entire contents of which is hereby incorporated by
reference.
[0053] According to particularly preferred embodiments, at least one of
the film forming agents is a polymer prepared by polymerization of monomer(s)
selected from the group consiting of acrylates, methacrylates, acrylic acid,
methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof. According to more preferred
embodiments, both film forming agents are polymers prepared by polymerization
of monomer(s) selected from the group consiting of acrylates, methacrylates,
acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] Suitable examples of such film forming agents include, but are not
limited to, water-borne emulsion-polymerized acrylic or vinyl-acrylic polymers
that
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are pressure-sensitive adhesives, ethylene-vinyl acetate emulsions,
polyurethane
dispersions and natural rubber latex. Specific examples include, but are not
limited to, Carbotac 26222 (BF Goodrich), Nacrylic 78-6408 (National Starch
and
Chemical), Rhoplex N580 (Rohm and Haas), Acronal NV 146CR (BASF),
Acronal NV 155CR (BASF), Acronal NV 189CR (BASF), Acronal NV 162CR
(BASF), Acronal NN 171CR (BASF), Acronal NA 182CR (BASF), NACRYLIC
CP3600 (National Starch), NACRYLIC CP2550 (National Starch), NACRYLIC
CP3650 (National Starch), Luphen D259U (BASF), DUROSET C-325 (National
Starch), RESYN 1025 (National Starch), and DUROSET E-200 (National Starch).
[0055] According to most preferred embodiments, the film forming
agent(s) are compatible/miscible with the microspheres, and are
compatible/miscible with each other if more than one is present.
[0056] According to preferred embodiments, the film forming component
is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.3% to 50% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the film forming
component is present in an amount ranging from 1.0 to 40% by weight relative
to
the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 2% to 30%. One
of
ordinary skill in the art will recognize that these weight percentages are
based on
dry weight of the film forming agents, and that the film forming agents of the
present invention may be commercially available from suppliers in the form of
a
dilute solution. The amounts of the film forming agent disclosed herein
therefore
reflect the weight percent of active material.
[0057] According to preferred embodiments where two film forming
agents are present, the ratio of the first film forming agent to the second
film
forming agent is between about 1:10 to 20:1, about 1:10 to 10:1, about 1:5 to
5:1,
including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0058] In accordance with the present invention, the microspheres and
film forming component can be added to the composition during preparation
simultaneously or separately. According to particularly preferred embodiments
of
the present invention, the microspheres and film forming component are added
simultaneously, most preferably in the form of a composition containing
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microspheres and a suitable film forming component such as the compositions
described in U.S. patent application publication no. 2003/0109630, the entire
contents of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Suitable examples of
compositions containing microspheres and a suitable film forming component
Multi-Lok 38-454A (National Starch).
[0059] Coloring Agents
[0060] According to the present invention, the compositions may
optionally comprise at least one coloring agent. Suitable coloring agents
include
but are not limited to pigments (both goniochromatic and monochromatic), dyes,
such as liposoluble dyes, nacreous pigments, and pearling agents. Typically,
when the composition contains colorants, it is a coloring composition such as
a
mascara, lipstick or foundation. Alternatively, when the composition does not
contain colorants, it is a clear or transparent composition which can be used
as a
basecoat (or topcoat) prior to (or after) application of a coloring
composition to
keratin materials. However, it is possible that topcoats or basecoats could
contain colorants.
[0061] Representative liposoluble dyes which may be used according to
the present invention include Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, f3-carotene,
soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, annatto,
and quinoline yellow. The liposoluble dyes, when present, generally have a
concentration ranging up to 20% by weight of the total weight of the
composition,
such as from 0.0001 % to 6%.
(0062] The nacreous pigments which may be used according to the
present invention may be chosen from white nacreous pigments such as mica
coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments
such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or
chromium
oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment chosen from those mentioned
above, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The nacreous
pigments, if present, be present in the composition in a concentration ranging
up
to 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, such as from 0.1 % to
20%, preferably from 0.1 % to 15%.
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CA 02581521 2007-03-13
[0063] The pigments, which may be used according to the present
invention, may be chosen from white, colored, inorganic, organic, polymeric,
nonpolymeric, coated and uncoated pigments. They may also be
monochromatic or goniochromatic (for example, a multilayer interference
structure) such as those disclosed in U.S. patent 6,451,294, the entire
disclosure
of which is hereby incorporated by reference. Representative examples of
mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated,
zirconium
oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese
violet,
ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Representative examples
of
organic pigments include carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based
on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.
[0064] If present, the pigments may be present in the composition in a
concentration ranging up to 50 % by weight of the total weight of the
composition,
such as from 0,5% to 40%, and further such as from 2% to 30%. In the case of
certain products, the pigments, including nacreous pigments, may, for example,
represent up to 50% by weight of the composition.
[0065] According to particular aspects of the present invention, the
compositions can be in the form of an emulsion. Suitable emulsion forms
include
but are not limited to oil-in-water, water-in-oil, oil-in-water-in-oil, water-
in-oil-in-
water and nanoemulsions (emulsions whose oil globules are of very fine
particle
size, that is to say that they have a number-average size of less than about
100
nanometers (nm)). Emulsions contain at least one oil phase and at least one
aqueous phase. Typically speaking, emulsions contain surfactants or surfactant-
like materials which provide stability to the emulsions and inhibit de-phasing
of
the emulsions.
{0066] Additional Ingredients
[0067] The compositions of the present invention can also comprise any
additive usually used in the field under consideration. For example,
dispersants,
antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, liposoluble
polymers
that are dispersible in the medium, fillers, neutralizing agents, cosmetic and
dermatological active agents such as, for example, emollients, moisturizers,
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vitamins, anti-wrinkle agents, essential fatty acids, sunscreens, and mixtures
thereof can be added. A non-exhaustive listing of such ingredients can be
found
in U.S. patent application publication no. 2004/0170586, the entire contents
of
which is hereby incorporated by reference. Further examples of suitable
additional components can be found in the other references which have been
incorporated by reference in this application, including but not limited to
the
applications from which this application claims priority. Still further
examples of
such additional ingredients may be found in the International Cosmetic
Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002).
[0068] A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional
additional additives and/or the amount thereof such that the advantageous
properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not
substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
[0069] These substances may be selected variously by the person skilled
in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties,
for
example, consistency or texture.
[0070] These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion
from 0% to 99% (such as from 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the
composition and further such as from 0.1 % to 50% (if present).
[0071] Needless to say, the composition of the invention should be
cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, i.e., it should contain a non-
toxic
physiologically acceptable medium and should be able to be applied to the
eyelashes of human beings. For the purposes of the invention, the expression
"cosmetically acceptable" means a composition of pleasant appearance, odor,
feel and/or taste.
[0072] In particular, with respect to compositions for application to hair
and/or eyelashes, additional optional ingredients include but are not limited
to
those ingredients set forth in U.S. Patent No. 6,548,051 and U.S. patent
application publication nos. 2002/0059941 and 2006/0024255, the entire
contents of which are herein incorporated by reference. Examples of such
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CA 02581521 2007-03-13
additional ingredients include but are not limited to adhesive particles, non-
adhesive particles, fixing polymers, and propellants (for aerosol
compostions).
[0073] However, in a particularly preferred embodiment of the present
invention, a cosmetic or dermatologic composition which is free of,
essentially
free of or substantially free of non-adhesive particles is provided. By "free
of'
non-adhesive particles," it is meant that no non-adhesive particles are
present in
the composition. By "essentially free of non-adhesive particles," it is meant
that
less than 0.01% non-adhesive particles are present in the composition. By
"substantially free of non-adhesive particles," it is meant that less than
0.03%
non-adhesive particles are present in the composition. As used herein, a'non-
adhesive" particle is a particle that is not coated with an adhesive as
described in
U.S. Patent No. 6,548,051, U.S. patent application publication no.
2002/0059941
and U.S. patent application publication no. 2006/0024255. More specifically, a
non-adhesive particle is a discrete substrate that is not an adhesive and is
not
coated with an adhesive coating in whole or in part, and does not comprise an
adhesive as a core or shell material when in a core/shell structure.
[0074] Specific examples of additional ingredients include oils,
particularly if the composition is an anhydrous composition or an emulsion.
Any
oils can be used in accordance with the present invention. The oils can be
volatile or non-volatile, silicone-based and/or hydrocarbon-based, etc. Thus,
for
example, the external oil phase may contain, independently or in combination,
volatile silicone oils, non-volatile silicone oils, volaiiie non-silicone oils
and non-
volatile non-silicone oils.
[0075] In one embodiment, the compositions of the present invention are
substantially free of silicone oils (i.e., contain less than about 1 % of
silicone oil).
In another embodiment, the compositions are substantially free of non-silicone
oils (i.e., contain less than about 1% of non-silicone oil). In another
embodiment,
the compositions are substantially free of non-volatile oils (i.e., contain
less than
about 1% of non-volatile oil). In yet another embodiment, the compositions are
substantially free of volatile oils (i.e., contain less than about 1% of
volatile oil).
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[0076] According to one embodiment, the oil phase may contain one or
more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include
linear or
cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature less than or equal
to
6cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicone atoms, these silicones being optionally
substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Suitable oils
that
may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane,
heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyidisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane,
dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures. Other volatile oils which may be
used include KF 96A of 6 cSt viscosity, a commercial product from Shin Etsu
having a flash point of 94 C. Preferably, the volatile silicone oils have a
flash
point of at least 40 C.
[0077] Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1
below.
[0078] Table 1
Compound Flash Point Viscosity
( C) (cSt)
Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2
Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2
Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2
(cyclopentasiloxane or D5)
Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 55 2.5
(cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4)
Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7
Decamethyltetrasiloxane(L4) 63 1.7
KF-96 A from Shin Etsu 94 6
PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 56 1.5
(1.5cSt) from Dow Corning
PDMS DC 200 (2cSt) from Dow Corning 87 2
PDMS DC 200 (5cSt) from Dow Corning 134 5
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CA 02581521 2007-03-13
[DMS DC 200 (3St) from Dow Corning 102 3
[0079] Further, a volatile linear silicone oil may be employed in the
compositions of the present invention. Suitable volatile linear silicone oils
include
those described in U.S. patent no. 6,338,839 and W003/042221, the contents of
which are incorporated herein by reference. In one embodiment the volatile
linear silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, the
decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent that is more
volatile than decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0080] The volatility of the solvents/oils can be determined using the
evaporation speed as set forth in U.S. patent no. 6,338,839.
[0081] Examples of other silicone oils that may be used in the invention
include non-volatile linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), that are liquid at
room
temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups,
which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each
containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyisilicones, for instance phenyl
trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes,
diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl
trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0082] According to other preferred embodiments, the oil phase may
contain one or more non-silicone volatile oils and may be selected from
volatile
hydrocarbon oils, alcohols, volatile esters and volatile ethers. Examples of
such
volatile non-silicone oils include, but are not limited to, volatile
hydrocarbon oils
having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched
C8 to C16 alkanes such as C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins),
isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under
the trade names of lsopar or Permethyl, the C8 to C16 branched esters such as
isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate and their mixtures. Preferably, the
volatile
non-silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40 C.
Table 2
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Compound Flash Point ( C)
Isododecane 43
Isohexadecane 102
Isodecyl Neopentanoate 118
Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60
Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 58
Propylene glycol methylether acetate 46
Isopar L (isoparaffin C11-C13) 62
lsopar H (isoparaffin C11-C12) 56
[0083] Examples of other non-silicone oils which can be used in the
compositions of the present invention include polar oils such as:
- hydrocarbon-based plant oils with a high triglyceride
content consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which
may have varied chain lengths, these chains possibly being linear or
branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheat
germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, karite butter, castor oil, sweet almond
oil,
macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa
oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, avocado oil,
hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil,
millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil,
candlenut oil,
passion flower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides,
for
instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under
the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;
- synthetic oils or esters of formula R5COOR6 in which R5
represents a linear or branched higher fatty acid residue containing from 1
to 40 carbon atoms, including and better still from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, and
R6 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40
carbon atoms, including and better still from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, with R6 +
R7 _ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl
isononanoate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl
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palmitate, and octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of
polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate or
diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;
- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- C8 to C26 fatty alcohols, for instance oleyl alcohol; and
- mixtures thereof.
[0084] Preferably, the oils, if present, represent from about 5% to about
80% by weight of the total weight of the composition, more preferably from
about
10% to about 60% of the total weight of the composition, and most preferably
from about 15% to about 50%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
[0085] Water, when present, preferably represents from about 1 % to
about 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, more preferably
from
about 5% to about 60% of the total weight of the composition, and most
preferably from about 10% to about 50%, including all ranges and subranges
therebetween.
[0086] According to preferred embodiments, methods of improving
performance properties of compositions for keratin materials such as, for
example, transfer-resistance, long-wear and/or waterproofing, comprising
combining in a cosmetic or dermatologic composition a microsphere and a film
forming component are provided. The compositions may be applied to keratin
materials as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once
daily
and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting to contact such as with
clothing or other objects.
[0087] According to particularly preferred embodiments, sufficient
microspheres are combined with sufficient film forming component such that the
performance properties of the compositions are greater than the performance
properties of compositions containing either ingredient individually. Thus, in
accordance with such particularly preferred embodiments, the compositions for
keratin materials contain a transfer-resistance, long-wear and/or
waterproofing
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enhancing effective amount of the microspheres and/or the film forming
component.
[0088] According to other preferred embodiments, methods of increasing
eyelash or hair volume, strength and/or length comprising applying to
eyelashes
or hair an eyelash or hair volume-, strength and/or length-increasing
effective
amount of a composition comprising a microsphere and a film forming
component are provided. The compositions may be applied to keratin materials
as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily and then
preferably allowed to dry before subjecting to contact such as with clothing
or
other objects.
[0089] According to yet other embodiments of the present invention,
methods of styling a keratin material such as hair or eyelashes comprising
applying to the keratin material a keratin material styling effective amount
of a
composition comprising a microsphere and a film forming component are
provided.
[0090] According to yet other embodiments of the present invention,
methods of restyling, reshaping or repeatedly fixing a keratin material such
as
hair or eyelashes comprising initially applying to the keratin material a
keratin
material styling effective amount of a composition comprising a microsphere
and
a film forming component, and subsequently restyling, reshaping or repeatedly
fixing the keratin material without reapplying the composition to the keratin
material are provided.
[0091] According to preferred embodiments, methods of holding the
shape or curl of a keratin material such as hair or eyelashes comprising
applying
to the keratin material a shape or curl holding effective amount of a
composition
comprising a microsphere and a film forming component are provided.
[0092] According to other embodiments of the present invention,
methods of making-up keratin materials such as eyelashes, nails, skin or lips
comprising applying an eyelash, nail, skin or lip making-up effective amount
of a
composition comprising a microsphere and a film forming component, to
eyelashes, nails, skin or lips in need of such makihg-up are provided.
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[0093] According to yet other embodiments, methods of treating or caring
for keratin materials such as eyelashes, nails, hair, skin or lips by applying
compositions of the present invention to the eyelashes, nails, hair, skin or
lips in
an amount sufficient to treat and/or care for the eyelashes, nails, hair, skin
or lips
are provided.
[0094] According to other preferred embodiments, methods of enhancing
the appearance of keratin materials such as eyelashes, nails, hair, skin or
lips by
applying compositions of the present invention to the eyelashes, nails, hair,
skin
or lips in an amount sufficient to enhance the appearance of the eyelashes,
nails,
hair, skin or lips are provided.
[0095] In accordance with the preceding preferred embodiments, the
compositions of the present invention are applied topically to keratin
materials in
an amount sufficient to treat, care for and/or make up the keratin materials,
or to
enhance their appearance. The compositions may be applied to eyelashes as
needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily and then
preferably allowed to dry before subjecting to contact such as with clothing
or
other objects.
[0096] The present invention also envisages kits and/or prepackaged
materials suitable for consumer use containing one or more compositions
according to the description herein (for example, kits containing (1) a
mascara;
and (2) a basecoat and/or topcoat). The packaging and application device for
any
subject of the invention may be chosen and manufactured by persons skilled in
the art on the basis of their general knowledge, and adapted according to the
nature of the composition to be packaged. Indeed, the type of device to be
used
can be in particular linked to the consistency of the composition, in
particular to
its viscosity; it can also depend on the nature of the constituents present in
the
composition, such as the presence of volatile compounds.
[0097] Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of
ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and
claims
are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about."
Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set
forth
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CA 02581521 2007-03-13
in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may
vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the
present
invention.
[0098] Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting
forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical
values
set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any
numerical value, however, inherently contain certain errors necessarily
resulting
from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The
following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting
the
scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis.
[0099]
Example I - Microspheres
A. Ingredients which can be used to prepare microspheres by suspension
free-radical polymerization pursuant to U.S. patent application publication
no. 2003/0109630
Monomer 2-eth Ihex I acrylate
Initiator t-butyl peroctoate
Solvent DI water
Surfactant Sodium dodecyl benzene sulfonate
Surfactant Aerosol MA 80-I
Stabilizer Pol (ac lic acid)
Chelating agent Eth Iene diamine tetra-acetic acid
Base Ammonium hydroxide
B. Formulation of Multi-Lok 38-454A
Microspheres National Starch & Chemical
Carbotac 26222 B.F. Goodrich
Nacrylic CP3650 National Starch & Chemical
Acrysol ASE-95 Rohm & Haas
Ammonium Hydroxide -
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CA 02581521 2007-03-13
Example 2
A. Composition (Mousse) preparation:
Ingredient Percentage
Multi-Lok 38-454A 2.35%
Empicol BSD 52* (surfactant) 0.19%
DI Water 91.46%
Propellant A-46 6.00%
*Empicol BSD 52 contains Sodium laureth-8 sulfate, Sodium laureth sulfate,
Magnesium laureth-8 sulfate, Magnesium laureth sulfate, Sodium oleth sulfate,
Magnesium oleth sulfate.
[00100] The aqueous phase was prepared by dissolving surfactant in
deionized water under appropriated agitation rate. Then, polymer (optional -
not
present in Example A) was added and mixed well. Finally, Multi-Lok 38-454A
was added dropwise under continued agitation. 94 part of the above mentioned
aqueous phase was mixed with 6 part of propellant A-46 into an aerosol bottle.
[Can: Exal PAM 2P 8460 N (50 x 125); Valve: YL31974; Actuator: Mars]
B. Application:
2 g of mousse was applied on 1/2 of head of damp hair, followed by blow
dry.
C. Evaluation:
[00101] The composition provided good hold and reshapability.
Example 3
[00102] The following compositions were prepared in accordance
with the procedures set forth in Example 2.
Formula A
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CA 02581521 2007-03-13
Ingredient Percentage
Multi-Lok 38-454A 2.00%
(Acrylic copolymer)
(National Starch)
Empicol BSD 52 0.19%
Fixate G-100L 1.50
(Acrylate/allyl methacrylate copolymer)
(NOVEON; T : -20-150 C)
DI Water 90.31%
Propellant A-46 6.00%
(Isobutane/propane)
Formula B
Ingredient Percentage
Multi-Lok 38-454A 2.00%
(Acrylic copolymer)
(National Starch)
Empicol BSD 52 0.19%
Syntran 5760 1.41%
(Styrene/acrylate/ammonium methacrylate copolymer)
(Inter ol mer; T : 19 C)
DI Water 90.40%
Propellant A-46 6.00%
(Isobutane/pro ane)
Formula C
Ingredient Percentage
Multi-Lok 38-454A 2.00%
(Acrylic copolymer)
(National Starch)
Empicol BSD 52 0.19%
Copolymer 845 1.41%
(Vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate)
(ISP; T : 175 C)
DI Water 90.40%
Propellant A-46 6.00%
(Isobutane/propane)
Formula D
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CA 02581521 2007-03-13
Ingredient Percentage
Multi-Lok 38-454A 2.00%
(acrylic copolymer)
(National Starch)
Empicol BSD 52 0.20%
Aculyn 88 0.75%
(Acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate cross-linked polymer)
(ROHM & HAAS; Tg: 24 C as supplied, and 54 C
when h drol zed at pH 7.0)
DI Water 91.05%
Propellant A-46 6.00%
(Isobutane/propane)
Formula E
Ingredient Percentage
Multi-Lok 38-454A 1.88%
(Acrylic copolymer)
(National Starch)
Empicol BSD 52 0.20%
Luviset Clear 0.94%
(Vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylaminde/N-vinylimidazole
copolymer)
(BASF; Tg: 219 C dried film; 85 C at 52% relative
humidit ; 51 C at 76% relative humidity)
DI Water 90.98%
Propellant A-46 6.00%
(Isobutane/propane)
[00103] These compositions were applied to damp hair, followed by
blow drying. Like the composition in Example 2, these compositions provided
good hold and reshapability. Also, the compositions provided hair with a
smooth,
non-tacky feel.
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