Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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PERSONAL COMPOSITIONS WITH SILICONE EMULSIFIER-FREE NATURAL
EMULSIFIER SYSTEM
CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
This application claims priority from U.S. Provisional Application No.
61/541,747
filed September 30, 2011.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to personal care compositions comprising an oil-
in-water
emulsifier system. The emulsifier system may achieve a low-soaping index in
personal care
compositions which are free of silicone emulsifiers.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Volatile silicones and dimethicones are widely used as carriers or diluents
for personal
care and cosmetic applications. They enhance spreading and lubricating
properties, evaporate
quickly from the skin without cooling or stinging it, and leave it feeling
pleasantly dry and
smooth. They lubricate spray valves and roll-on applicators, ensure stick
compositions spread
smoothly, and prevent soaping and whitening during application. Therefore,
silicones have
traditionally been used in personal care compositions to provide one or more
of the
aforementioned benefits.
Consumers desire personal care compositions which are easy to apply to skin
and
dislike compositions which form dry or filmy residues. In order to design
products with high
spreadability, a low formulation viscosity is preferable. In addition,
consumers are becoming
more aware of the safety of the ingredients used in their cosmetic products.
In particular, the
use of silicone and silicone-based products has drawn negative attention from
the media.
Silicone and its derivatives have been used as the primary carrier, wetting
agent or coating
agent in a number of commercially available cosmetic and personal care
dispersions that
formulators have come to depend on. However, silicone and its derivatives,
though widely
used in cosmetics for many years, are once again undergoing scrutiny for their
safety as well
as environmental impact. In view of this situation, silicone and its
derivatives may fall out of
favor with consumers, requiring formulators to find suitable substitutes if
they are to continue
providing dispersion-based cosmetic and personal care products. Accordingly,
there is a need
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for formulations which remain stable and low-soaping even in formulations
which are free of
silicone emulsifiers.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising an oil-
in-water
emulsifier system comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at
least one nonionic
surfactant, said system being substantially free of silicone emulsifiers.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
While the specification concludes with claims that particularly point out and
distinctly
claim the invention, it is believed the present invention will be better
understood from the
following description.
All percentages, parts and ratios are based upon the total weight of the
compositions of
the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights as they
pertain to listed
ingredients are based on the active level, and, therefore, do not include
solvents or by-products
that may be included in commercially available materials, unless otherwise
specified. The
term "weight percent" may be denoted as "wt.%" herein.
All molecular weights as used herein are weight average molecular weights
expressed
as grams/mole, unless otherwise specified.
Herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not
affect
the end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of'
and "consisting
essentially of'. The compositions and methods/processes of the present
invention can
comprise, consist of, and consist essentially of the essential elements and
limitations of the
invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional
ingredients,
components, steps, or limitations described herein.
The term "oil-soluble" as used herein, means that the material is soluble in
oil. In
general, the material should be soluble at 25 C at a concentration of at least
0.1% by weight of
the oil solvent, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, most
preferably at least
15%.
The term "oil-insoluble" as used herein, means that a material is not soluble
in oil.
Thus, the material is not miscible with oil.
The term "polymer" as used herein shall include materials whether made by
polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or
more types of
monomers.
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The term "personal care composition" as used herein, refers to compositions
intended
for topical application to the skin or hair and specifically excludes those
compositions that are
directed primarily to other applications such as hard surface cleansing,
fabric or laundry
cleansing, and similar other applications not intended primarily for topical
application to the
hair or skin. Examples of personal care compositions of the present invention
may include but
are not limited to lotions, sunless tanner, sunscreen lotions,
antiperspirants, deodorants, shave
creams, face creams, color cosmetics, lipstick, mascara, blush, foundation,
nail polish, and the
like. Rinse off compositions such as shampoo, conditioning shampoo, body wash,
moisturizing body wash, shower gels, skin cleansers, cleansing milks, hair and
body wash, in
shower body moisturizer, pet shampoo, shaving preparations and cleansing
compositions used
in conjunction with a disposable cleansing cloth are also suitable.
The term "silicone emulsifier" as used herein means a silicone based
ingredient which
serves the purpose of suspending or dispersing other components of a personal
care
composition. Silicone emulsifiers, as defined herein, specifically do not
include silicone-
based ingredients which act as emollients, opacifiers, particulates, and the
like, which are not
intended to emulsify the composition.
The term "solid particle" as used herein means a particle that is not a liquid
or a gas.
The phrase "substantially free of' as used herein, unless otherwise specified
means that
the composition comprises less than about 5%, preferably less than about 3%,
more preferably
less than about 1% and most preferably less than about 0.1% of the stated
ingredient. The
term "free of' as used herein means that the composition comprise 0% of the
stated ingredient
that is the ingredient has not been added to the composition, however, these
ingredients may
incidentally form as a byproduct or a reaction product of the other components
of the
composition.
The term "water-soluble" as used herein, means that the polymer is soluble in
water in
the present composition. In general, the polymer should be soluble at 25 C at
a concentration
of at least 0.1% by weight of the water solvent, preferably at least 1%, more
preferably at least
5%, most preferably at least 15%.
The term "water-insoluble" as used herein, means that a compound is not
soluble in
water in the present composition. Thus, the compound is not miscible with
water.
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Personal Care Composition
The personal care composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water
emulsion
comprising a continuous water phase and a discontinuous oil phase. Suitable
emulsions may
have a wide range of viscosities, depending on the desired product form. In
certain
embodiments, the personal care composition may have a viscosity of from about
1,000 cps
(centipoise) to about 1,000,000 cps, or from about 5,000 cps to about 500,000
cps, or from
about 10,000 cps to about 200,000 cps, or from about 15,000 cps to about
75,000 cps. For
example, viscosities may be measured on a Brookfield viscometer using a T-C
bar spindle
with a heliopath setting at 5 rpm at 25 C. In particular embodiments, the
personal care
composition has a pH of from about 3 to about 9, or from about 4 to about 7.
The personal care composition may comprise at least about 2% of an oil phase.
The
personal care composition may comprise from about 2% to about 75%, or from
about 5% to
about 35%, or from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of the composition, of an
oil phase.
The oil phase component is preferably essentially silicone-free, ie contains
no more than about
10%, preferably no more than about 5% by weight of silicon-based materials. It
will be
understood that the oil phase may contain small levels (eg. up to about 25%,
preferably 10%)
of oil phase soluble emulsifier ingredients.
Suitable oil phase components for use herein include, for example, optionally
hydroxy-
substituted C<sub>8</sub> -C<sub>50</sub> unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof,
C<sub>1</sub> -C<sub>24</sub>
esters of C<sub>8</sub> -C<sub>30</sub> saturated fatty acids such asisopropyl myristate,
cetyl palmitate
and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated
fatty alcohols
such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils,
petrolatum and
squalane, fatty sorbitan esters, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, animal and
vegetable
triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil,
jojoba oil, oil of
apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade
oil, corn oil,
peach pit oil,poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil,
safflower oil,
coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil
and C1 ¨C24 esters of
dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate,diisostearylmalate,
diisostearyidimerate
and triisostearyltrimerate. Of the above, highly preferred are the mineral
oils, petrolatums,
unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof and mixtures thereof
The personal care composition may comprise from about 25% to about 98%, or
from
about 65% to about 95%, or from about 70% to about 90%, by weight of the
composition, of a
water phase. In some embodiments, the water phase may be comprised entirely of
water. In
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other embodiments, the water phase may comprise components other than water
(i.e., non-
water components), including, but not limited to, water-soluble moisturizing
agents,
conditioning agents, anti-microbials, humectants, and/or other water-soluble
skin care actives,
to impart an increased benefit to the keratinous tissue. In one embodiment,
the water phase
comprises a humectant such as glycerin and/or other polyols. In a particular
embodiment, the
personal care composition may be substantially water-free.
In a particular embodiment, the personal care composition includes an oil-in-
water
emulsifier system comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at
least one non-
ionic surfactant. The sucrose fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the
group
consisting of sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose hexaerucate;
sucrose
hexaoleate/hexapalmitate/hexastearate, sucrose hexapalmitate, sucrose laurate;
sucrose
myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose
polybehenate,
sucrose polylaurate, sucrose polylinoleate, sucrose polyoleate, sucrose
polystearate, sucrose
ricinoleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tetraisostearate, sucrose tribehenate,
sucrose trilaurate,
sucrose tristearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose polycottonseedate, sucrose
polypalmate, sucrose
polysoyate, and mixtures thereof In a more preferred embodiment, the sucrose
fatty acid
ester is sucrose stearate. In a particular embodiment, the nonionic surfactant
is selected from
the group consisting of methyl glucose sesquisterate, PPG-20 methyl glucose
ether, PPG-20
methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate and
ethoxylated methyl
glucose having from about 10 to about 20 repeating ethoxy units. In a
preferred embodiment,
the nonionic surfactant is methyl glucose sesquisterate.
The emulsifier system herein surprisingly avoids the soaping effect evidenced
by other
personal care formulations. In order to suppress soaping in many
emulsifications, formulators
have traditionally used silicone, or specifically, dimethicone. The emulsifier
system herein is
further surprising in that soaping may be reduced or eliminated in
formulations which are
substantially free of silicone emulsifiers. The low-soaping effect is assisted
by achieving a
ratio of sucrose fatty acid ester to nonionic surfactant of from about 1:3 to
about 3:1. In a
preferred embodiment, the ratio of sucrose fatty acid ester to nonionic
surfactant is about 1:1.
As used herein, the term "emulsifier system" refers to the combination of both
the sucrose
fatty acid ester and nonionic surfactant.
Preferably the emulsifier system has an HLB from about 1.5 to 13.0, preferably
from
about 3.4 to 13.0, more preferably 3.4 to about 9.5, more preferably 3.4 to
about 8Ø When
formulated in a personal care or cosmetic composition, the emulsifier system
is present at a
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level ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25%
to about 8%,
even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, still even more preferably
from about
1.0% to about 5%, and still even still more preferably from about 1.5% to
about 4%, by
weight of the personal or cosmetic care compositions.
The balance between the hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties in a surfactant
molecule
is used as a method of classification (hydrophile-lipophile balance, HLB). The
HLB values for
commonly-used surfactants are readily available in the literature (e.g., HLB
Index in
McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents, MC Publishing Co., 2004). For
example, cocamide
monoethanolamine (CMEA) is known in the art to have an HLB value of 16.8.
Another way
of obtaining HLB values is to estimate by calculations. The HLB system was
originally
devised by Griffin (J. Soc. Cosmetic Chem., 1, 311, 1949). Griffin defined the
HLB value of a
surfactant as the mol % of the hydrophilic groups divided by 5, where a
completely
hydrophilic molecule (with no non-polar groups) had an HLB value of 20. Other
examples of
how to calculate HLB values are described by Davies in Interfacial Phenomena,
2nd Edition,
Academic Press, London, 1963 and by Lin in J Phys. Chem. 76, 2019-2013, 1972.
Additional Actives
The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more active
ingredients. Particularly suitable actives include sugar amines, vitamin B3
compounds,
vitamins, peptides, and sunscreens.
Sugar Amine
The compositions of the present invention may comprise a sugar amine, also
known as
amino sugars, and their salts, isomers, tautomers and derivatives. As used
herein, "sugar
amine" refers to a pure sugar amine compound or a mixture of sugar amine
compounds (e.g.,
extracts from natural sources or mixtures of synthetic materials) of synthetic
or natural origin,
including its isomers, tautomers, salts, and derivatives. Examples of sugar
amines useful
herein include glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl
mannosamine,
galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, their isomers (e.g., stereoisomers),
and their salts
(e.g., HC1 salt). In one embodiment, the sugar amine is glucosamine, or D-
glucosamine and
N-acetyl glucosamine, or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Additionally, combinations of
two or
more sugar amines may be used. The composition may comprise from about 0.01%
to about
15%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 10%, and alternatively from about
0.5% to about
5%, of a sugar amine.
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Vitamin B3 Compound
The compositions of the present invention may include a vitamin B3 compound.
As
used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula:
wherein R is ¨CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), ¨COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or
¨CH2OH (i.e.,
nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
Vitamin B3
compounds are particularly useful for regulating skin condition as described
in U.S. Pat. No.
5,939,082. In one embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide. The
composition
may comprise from about 0.001% to about 20%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%,
or from
about 0.5% to about 7%, by weight of the composition, of a vitamin B3
compound.
Vitamins
The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more vitamins,
for
example, to provide antioxidant and/or other nutritional benefits to the skin.
Herein,
"vitamin" means vitamins, pro-vitamins, and their salts, isomers and
derivatives. The
vitamins may include water soluble vitamins, for example, nicotinic acid, C 1 -
C18 nicotinic
acid esters, and nicotinyl alcohol; B6 compounds, such as pyroxidine; and B5
compounds,
such as panthenol, or "pro-B5"); and Vitamin C compounds, including ascorbyl
esters of fatty
acids, and ascorbic acid derivatives, for example, ascorbyl glucoside,
magnesium ascorbyl
phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl sorbate; and mixtures
thereof The
vitamins also may include those exhibiting limited solubility in water, such
as Vitamin A
compounds, and all natural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamin A, including
retinoids,
carotenoids, and other compounds which possess the biological activity of
Vitamin A;
Vitamin D compounds; Vitamin E compounds, or tocopherol, including tocopherol
sorbate,
tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol; Vitamin K compounds; and
mixtures thereof.
The composition may comprise from about 0.0001% to about 20%, or from about
0.01% to
about 15%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, of a
vitamin.
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Peptides
The compositions of the present invention may include a peptide. As used
herein,
"peptide" refers to peptides containing ten or fewer amino acids and their
derivatives, isomers,
and complexes with other species such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc,
manganese,
magnesium, and the like). As used herein, peptide refers to both naturally
occurring and
synthesized peptides. In one embodiment, the peptides are di-, tri-, tetra-,
penta-, and hexa-
peptides, their salts, isomers, derivatives, and mixtures thereof Examples of
useful peptide
derivatives include, but are not limited to, peptides derived from palmitoyl-
lysine-threonine
(pal-KT) and palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS,
available in a
composition known as MATRIXYLO), palmitoyl-glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine
(pal-
GQPR, available in a composition known as RIGINO), these three being available
from
Sederma, and Cu-histidine-glycine-glycine (Cu-HGG, also known as IAMINO). A
further
example includes carnosine (beta-alanine-histidine). Preferred peptides
include
PROMATRIXYL, comprising palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and PALESTRINA, comprising
palmitoyl dipeptide-7, both available from Croda Inc. The composition may
comprise from
about 1 x10-6% to about 20%, or from about 1 x10-5% to about 10%, or from
about
1x10-4% to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of a peptide.
Sunscreens
The compositions of the subject invention may comprise one or more sunscreen
actives. As used herein, "sunscreen active" refers to oil-soluble sunscreens,
insoluble
sunscreens, and water-soluble sunscreens. Non-limiting examples of suitable
oil-soluble
sunscreens are disclosed in The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
Association's The
International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th Ed.,
Gottschalck, T. E. and
McEwen, Jr., Eds. (2004), p. 2267 and pp. 2292-93 and include benzophenone-3,
bis-
ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane,
diethylamino
hydroxy-benzoyl hexyl benzoate, drometrizole trisiloxane, ethylhexyl methoxy-
cinnamate,
ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, homosalate,
polysilicone-15, and
derivatives and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable insoluble
sunscreens
include methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, titanium
dioxide, zinc
cerium oxide, zinc oxide, and derivatives and mixtures thereof Non-limiting
examples of
suitable water-soluble sunscreens include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid
(PBSA),
terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, (MexorylTm SX), benzophenone-4, ben-
zophenone-5, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, cinnamidopropyl-trimonium
chloride,
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methoxycinnamido-propyl ethyldimonium chloride ether, disodium bisethylphenyl
triaminotriazine stilbenedisulfonate, disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate,
disodium
phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, methoxycinnamido-propyl
hydroxysultaine,
methoxycinnamido-propyl laurdimonium tosylate, PEG-25 PABA (p-aminobenzoic
acid),
polyquaternium-59, TEA-salicylate, and salts, derivatives and mixtures thereof
The
composition may comprise from about 0.0001% to about 30%, or from about 0.01%
to about
20%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, of a
vitamin.
Retinoid
The compositions of this invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of
a
retinoid. As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and/or synthetic
analogs of Vitamin A
or retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A
in the skin as
well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The
retinoid is
preferably selected from retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2-C22 alkyl esters of
retinol, including
retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and/or
retinoic acid (including
all-trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid), or mixtures thereof In
one embodiment,
the retinoid is retinyl propionate. The composition may comprise from about
0.001% to about
10%, or from 0.01% to about 1%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, by weight
of the
composition, of a retinoid.
Other Actives
Other suitable actives include, but are not limited to, oil control agents, N-
acyl amino
acid compounds, tanning actives, anti-acne actives, desquamation actives, anti-
cellulite
actives, chelating agents, skin lightening agents, flavonoids, protease
inhibitors, tyrosinase
inhibitors, non-vitamin antioxidants and radical scavengers, preservatives,
hair growth
regulators, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-atrophy actives, minerals, phytosterols
and/or plant
hormones, anti-inflammatory agents, antimicrobials, and antifungals. Further
suitable actives
include caffeine; tea extracts, e.g. white tea extract and green tea extract;
ginseng; cucumber
extract; rosehip oil; date palm kernel extract; witch hazel extract; dill
extract;
tetrahydrocurcmin; turmerone; and other natural or botanical compounds. Many
of these
actives are provided in further detail in U.S. Application Publication Nos.
US2006/0275237A1, US2004/0175347A1, and US2006/0263309A1.
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Optional Ingredients
Particulate Material
The compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0.001% to
about
40%, by weight of the composition, of one or more particulate materials. Non-
limiting
examples of suitable powders include inorganic powders (for example, iron
oxides, titanium
dioxides, zinc oxides, silica), organic powders, composite powders, optical
brightener
particles, and mixtures of any of the foregoing. These particulates can, for
instance, be
platelet shaped, spherical, elongated or needle-shaped, or irregularly shaped;
surface coated or
uncoated; porous or non-porous; charged or uncharged; and can be added to the
current
compositions as a powder or as a pre-dispersion. In one embodiment, the
particulate material
is hydrophobically coated.
Suitable organic powders particulate materials include, but are not limited,
to
polymeric particles chosen from the methylsilsesquioxane resin microspheres,
e.g.,
TospearlTm 145A, (Toshiba Silicone); microspheres of polymethylmethacrylates,
e.g.,
MicropearlTM M 100 (Seppic); the spherical particles of crosslinked
polydimethylsiloxanes,
e.g., TrefilTm E 506C or TrefllTm E 505C (Dow Corning Toray Silicone);
spherical particles of
polyamide, e.g., nylon-12, and OrgasolTM 2002D Nat C05 (Atochem); polystyrene
microspheres, e.g., Dyno Particles, sold under the name DynospheresTM, and
ethylene acrylate
copolymer, sold under the name FloBeadTM EA209 (Kobo); aluminum starch
octenylsuccinate, e.g., Dry F10TM (National Starch); polyethylene
particulates, e.g.,
MicrotheneTM FN510-00 (Equistar) and Micropoly0 220L (Micro Powders, Inc.);
microspheres of polypropylene, e.g., MattewaxTM 511 (Micro Powders, Inc.);
silicone resin;
polymethylsilsesquioxane silicone polymer; platelet shaped powder made from L-
lauroyl
lysine; and mixtures thereof
The composition of the present invention further may comprise interference
pigments,
including hydrophobically-modified interference pigments. Herein,
"interference pigments"
means thin, plate-like layered particles having two or more layers of
controlled thickness. The
layers have different refractive indices that yield a characteristic reflected
color from the
interference of typically two, but occasionally more, light reflections, from
different layers of
the plate-like particle. One example of interference pigments are micas
layered with about 50-
300 nm films of Ti02, Fe203, silica, tin oxide, and/or Cr203 and include
pearlescent
pigments. Interference pigments are available commercially from a wide variety
of suppliers,
for example, Rona (TimironTm and DichronaTm), Presperse (FlonacTm), Englehard
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(DuochromeTm), Kobo (SK-45-R and SK-45-G), BASF (SicopearlsTM) and Eckart
(PrestigeTm). In one embodiment, the average diameter of the longest side of
the individual
particles of interference pigments is less than about 75 microns, and
alternatively less than
about 50 microns.
Non-limiting examples of suitable colorants include iron oxides, ferric
ammonium
ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, and chromium oxide,
phthalocyanine blue
and green pigment, encapsulated dyes, inorganic white pigments, for example
Ti02, ZnO, or
Zr02, FD&;C dyes, D&;C dyes, and mixtures thereof
Inorganic Sunscreens
The composition further may comprise from about 0.001% to about 10%, and
alternatively from about 0.1% to about 5%, of an inorganic and/or oil-
insoluble sunscreen.
Non-limiting examples of suitable insoluble sunscreens include methylene bis-
benzotriazolyl
tetramethylbutyl-phenol, titanium dioxides, zinc cerium oxides, zinc oxides,
and derivatives
and mixtures thereof
Non-Polar Emollient
The composition of the present invention may comprise from about 2% to about
70%,
and alternatively 30% to about 50% of a non-polar emollient. Non-limiting
examples of
suitable non-polar emollients include silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and
mixtures thereof.
Useful non-polar emollients in the present invention include natural,
synthetic, saturated,
unsaturated, straight chained, branched chained, linear, cyclic, aromatic,
volatile, and non-
volatile non-polar emollients, and mixtures thereof
Non-limiting examples of suitable non-polar hydrocarbons oils include mineral
oils
and branched chain hydrocarbons (such as commercially available, for example,
under the
tradenames PermethylTM (Permethyl CorporationTM) and IsoparTM (ExxonTm)). Non-
limiting
examples of suitable non-polar silicone oils include linear and cyclic
dimethicones.
Commercially available examples of these types of silicones include the Dow
Corning 200
series, Dow Corning 344, and Dow Corning 345 (all available from Dow CorningTM
Corp.);
and SF1202, SF1204, and the ViscasilTM series (all available from the G.E.
SiliconesTm).
Additional non-polar silicone oils include alkyl (for example, 2 carbons to 30
carbons) and
aryl (for example, phenyl or styrenyl) substituted silicones, including by not
limited to phenyl
methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone,
phenylethyl
dimethicone, hexyl dimethicone, lauryl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl
dimethicone,
bis-stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof
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Hydrophobic Components
The composition of the present invention may comprise from about 2% to about
75%,
or from about 5% to about 35%, or from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of
the
composition, of a hydrophobic component. The hydrophobic component may be
derived from
animals, plants, or petroleum and may be natural or synthetic (i.e., man-
made). Preferred
hydrophobic components are substantially water-insoluble, more preferably
essentially water-
insoluble. Preferred hydrophobic components are those having a melting point
of about 25 C.
or less under about one atmosphere of pressure. Non-limiting examples of
suitable
hydrophobic components include those selected from the group consisting of
mineral oil,
petrolatum, esters, hydrocarbons, straight and branched chain hydrocarbons
having from about
7 to about 40 carbon atoms, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids
and of C2-C30
dicarboxylic acids, mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids,
alkylene glycol
esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives,
C1-C30 mono-
and poly-esters of sugars and related materials, organopolysiloxane oils
(polyalkylsiloxanes,
cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, trimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethiconols,
polyalkylaryl siloxanes),
vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils, animal fats and oils, silicone
elastomers, and
combinations thereof These components are provided in further detail in U.S.
Pat. No.
5,997,887 and U.S. Application Publication No. US 2005/0019356 Al.
Soaping Index
The emulsifier system herein surprisingly avoids soaping exhibited by many
personal
care compositions. As discussed hereinabove, formulators have traditionally
mitigated the
soaping effect by using silicone, and specifically dimethicone, to minimize
the appearance of a
soapy film after application of the cosmetic composition. The soaping effect
is measured
herein via a "Soaping Index".
The Soaping Index is based a 5-point scale according to the comparative
examples
discussed hereinafter. About 0.5g of each sample formulation is applied to a
user's forearm
according to typical application by a consumer. The formulation which formed
the greatest
amount of soapy residue by visual inspection is assigned a "5". The remaining
formulations
are compared visually, side-by-side, and a value is assigned on a relative
basis, with "5" being
about identical to the highest soapy-residue forming formulation, and a "0"
being substantially
free of any soapy residue.
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Method of Use
The present invention relates to a method for improving or regulating
keratinous tissue
condition. In one aspect, this may be accomplished by providing the personal
care
composition described above and applying the composition to keratinous tissue
in need of
treatment. Conditions to be improved or regulated include increasing the
luminosity or "glow"
of the skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and coarse deep lines, fine
lines, crevices,
bumps, and large pores; thickening of keratinous tissue (e.g., building the
epidermis and/or
dermis and/or sub-dermal layers of the skin, and where applicable the
keratinous layers of the
nail and hair shaft, to reduce skin, hair, or nail atrophy); increasing the
convolution of the
dermal-epidermal border (also known as the rete ridges); preventing loss of
skin or hair
elasticity, for example, due to loss, damage and/or inactivation of functional
skin elastin,
resulting in such conditions as elastosis, sagging, loss of skin or hair
recoil from deformation;
reduction in cellulite; change in coloration to the skin, hair, or nails, for
example, under-eye
circles, blotchiness (e.g., uneven red coloration due to, for example,
rosacea), sallowness,
discoloration caused by telangiectasia or spider vessels, dryness,
brittleness, and graying hair.
Method of Making
Personal care compositions herein may be formulated according to the following
steps.
In a suitable vessel, the oil phase (including oil-soluble ingredients)
components are combined
and mixed with a suitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar RW2ODZM) and heated with
stirring to a
temperature of about 70-80 C. and this temperature is maintained. In a
separate suitable
vessel, the water phase (including water-soluble ingredients) components are
combined and
mixed with a suitable mixer and are heated with stirring to about 70-80 C.
and this
temperature is maintained. The oil phase mixture is then added to the water
phase mixture and
mixed well so as to emulsify the combination. The emulsifier system of the oil
phase and
water phase components is allowed to cool to about 60 C. and then the
optional ingredients
are added to the emulsion with continuous mixing. The emulsion is allowed to
further cool to
about 40 C. The resulting emulsion is then milled using a suitable mill
(e.g., with a Tekmar
T-25) for about 5 minutes or until the product is uniform.
EXAMPLES
The following examples are presented to further illustrate the compositions
and
methods of this invention, but are not to be construed as limiting the
invention, which is
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delineated in the appended claims. All parts and percentages in the examples
are on a weight
basis and all measurements are obtained at about 23 C, unless indicated to the
contrary.
Examples 1-IX are formed according to the following steps. The xanthan gum and
glycerin are pre-mixed in a small vessel. In a separate, larger vessel, the
aloe vera gel lx
organic and water are combined, with mixing. The xanthan gum/glycerin pre-mix
is added to
the aloe vera gel lx organic and water mixture in the larger vessel and mixed
until uniform.
The betaine and sucrose stearate are then added to the large vessel with
mixing, and the vessel
is heated to 80 degrees Celsius. Mixing continues in this vessel (water phase)
until the
contents are uniform. The methyl glucose sequisterate, helianthus annuus seed
oil and
butyrospermum parkii are added to a separate vessel with mixing and heated
until 80 degrees
(oil phase). When both the water and oil phases are uniform and the
temperature is at 80
degrees Celsius, the oil phase is slowly added to the water phase with mixing.
This combined
mixture is then homogenized for the appropriately scaled time. The batch is
then set to cool.
When the temperature of the batch reaches 30-35 degrees Celsius, Geogard 221,
Pheohydrane
G and Tocobiol are added. The batch is then mixed until uniform and cools
further to 30
degrees Celsius.
Example I. II. III. IV. V. VI. VII. VIII. IX.
wt wt wt wt wt wt wt wt wt
% % % % % % % % %
Oil phase
Methyl Glucose Sequisteratel 2.00 2.00 2.00
1.00 1.00 1.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
helianthus annuus seed oil
15.75 15.75 15.75 15.75 15.75 15.75 15.75 15.75 15.75
butyrospermum parkii
3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
dehydroacetic acid/benzyl 1.00 1.00 1.00
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
alcohol/ water2
Glycerin/water/hydrolyzed
1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
algin/ Chlorella vulgaris
extract/sea salt3
Tocopherol4
0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
Water phase
Sucrose Stearate5 2.00
1.50 5.00 2.00 1.50 5.00 2.00 5.00 0.50
Aloe Vera Gel 1X Organic
50.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 50.00 50.00
xanthan gum6
0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
Glyercin
1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60
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Betaine7 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
To 100% with water and/or optional ingredients
1 TEGOO CARE PS available from Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH
2 GEOGARDTM 221 available from Lonza
3 Pheohydrane G available from Codif
4 Tocobior available from BTSA
5 Sisterna 51370-C available from Sisterna
6 RHODICAREO T available from Rhodia Novecare
7 Betafin BP-20
COMPARATIVE EXAMPLES
The formulation of Example I above is compared to a Comparative Samples A, B,
and
C, respectively. The Comparative Sample C, which contains no dimethicone, has
a high soap
index when applied to skin. As demonstrated below, increasing levels of
dimethicone reduce
the incidence of high soaping. The Comparative Sample A achieves parity to
Example I, with
respect to its Soapiness Index score, when it includes 3% of dimethicone. In
contrast,
Example I is free of silicone emulsifiers.
Comparative Sample A B C
Oil phase
Cetearyl olivate/sorbitan olivate8 4.00 4.00 4.00
Helianthus annuus seed oil 15.75 15.75 15.75
Butyrospermum parkii 3.00 3.00 3.00
Dehydroacetic acid/benzyl alcohol/ 1.00 1.00 1.00
water9
Glycerin/water/hydrolyzed algin/ 1.00 1.00 1.00
Chlorella vulgaris extract/sea saltm
Tocopherolli 0.10 0.10 0.10
Dimethiconel2 3.00 0.50 0.00
Water phase
Aloe Vera Gel 1X Organic 50.00 50.00 50.00
Xanthan gum13 0.50 0.50 0.50
Glyercin 1.60 1.60 1.60
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Betaine" 1.00 1.00 1.00
Water 19.05 19.05 19.05
8 Olivem0 1000
9 GEOGARDTm 221 available from Lonza
Pheohydrane G available from Codif
11Tocobio10 available from BTSA
12 Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone FL. 10CS available from Dow Corning
13 RHODICAREO T available from Rhodia Nove care
10 14 Betafin BP-20
Formulation Soapiness Index
Example I 1
Comparative Sample A 1
Comparative Sample B 3
Comparative Sample C 5
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being
strictly
limited to the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise
specified, each such
dimension is intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally
equivalent range
surrounding that value. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is
intended to mean
"about 40 mm."
Where a range of values is recited, it is to be understood that each
intervening integer
value, and each fraction thereof, between the recited upper and lower limits
of that range is
also specifically disclosed, along with each subrange between such values. The
upper and
lower limits of any range can independently be included in or excluded from
the range, and
each range where neither or both limits are included is also encompassed
within the invention.
Where a value being discussed has inherent limits, for example where a
component can be
present at a concentration of from 0 to 100%, or where the pH of an aqueous
solution can
range from 1 to 14, those inherent limits are specifically disclosed. Where a
value is explicitly
recited, it is to be understood that values which are about the same quantity
or amount as the
recited value are also within the scope of the invention, as are ranges based
thereon. Where a
combination is disclosed, each subcombination of the elements of that
combination is also
specifically disclosed and is within the scope of the invention. Conversely,
where different
elements or groups of elements are disclosed, combinations thereof are also
disclosed. Where
any element of an invention is disclosed as having a plurality of
alternatives, examples of that
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invention in which each alternative is excluded singly or in any combination
with the other
alternatives are also hereby disclosed; more than one element of an invention
can have such
exclusions, and all combinations of elements having such exclusions are hereby
disclosed.
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent
or
application is hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless
expressly excluded
or otherwise limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it
is prior art with
respect to any invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in
any combination
with any other reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any
such invention.
Further, to the extent that any meaning or definition of a term in this
document conflicts with
any meaning or definition of the same term in a document incorporated by
reference, the
meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated
and
described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other
changes and
modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention. It is
therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and
modifications that are
within the scope of this invention.
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