Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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Cosmetic composition for lightening or dyeing the hair, comprising
two basic agents, an acid and an oxidizing agent
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for
lightening or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres
such as the hair, comprising (a) one or more organic bases or salts
thereof, these compounds having a molecular weight of less than or
equal to 300 g.mo1-1, (b) one or more mineral bases, (c) one or more
organic or mineral acids, (d) one or more fatty substances and (e) one
or more oxidizing agents; the pH of the composition being greater than
or equal to 7.
The invention also relates to lightening or dyeing processes
using the said composition and also to a multi-compartment device
that is suitable for using the said lightening or dye composition.
The present invention relates to the fields of the lightening or
dyeing of keratin fibres and more particularly to the fields of
lightening or dyeing the hair.
Many people have sought for a long time to modify the colour
of their hair and in particular to mask their grey hair, by dyeing or
lightening it.
The type of dyeing most commonly used is permanent dyeing
or oxidation dyeing, which uses dye compositions containing oxidation
dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation
bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when
combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured
compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation
bases may be varied by combining them with couplers or coloration
modifiers, the latter being chosen especially from aromatic meta-
diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic
compounds such as indole compounds. The variety of the molecules
used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colours to
be obtained.
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The permanent dyeing process thus consists in using, with the
dye composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one
oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of
cases.
When it is desired to lighten human keratin fibres, the
lightening processes consist in using an aqueous composition
comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions
in the vast majority of cases.
The role of the oxidizing agent used in permanent or lightening
dyeing processes is, at least partly, to degrade the melanin of the hair,
which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to
more or less pronounced lightening of the fibres. Thus, for relatively
weak lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide.
When more pronounced lightening is desired, peroxygenated salts, for
instance persulfates, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen
peroxide.
One of the difficulties arises from the fact that these processes
are performed under alkaline conditions and the alkaline agent most
commonly used is aqueous ammonia. The use of aqueous ammonia is
particularly advantageous in processes of this type. Specifically, it
makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline
pH to enable activation of the oxidizing agent. However, this alkaline
agent also causes swelling of the keratin fibre, with opening of the
scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent, and also
of the oxidation dyes, into the fibre, and thus increases the efficacy of
the reaction.
However, this basifying agent is very volatile, which users find
disagreeable due to the characteristic strong, rather unpleasant odour
of ammonia that is given off during the process.
Moreover, the amount of ammonia given off requires the use of
levels which are greater than those necessary, in order to compensate
for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user, who not
only remains inconvenienced by the odour, but may also be confronted
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with greater risks of intolerance, for instance irritation of the scalp,
which is reflected especially by stinging.
It has also been proposed to replace all or some of the aqueous
ammonia with one or more other standard basifying agents, but the
solutions proposed hitherto do not result in compositions that are as
effective as those based on aqueous ammonia, especially since these
basifying agents do not provide sufficient lightening of the pigmented
fibres or sufficient build-up of the coloration induced by the oxidation
dyes, in the presence of the oxidizing agent.
Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to
propose compositions for lightening or dyeing human keratin fibres
such as the hair, which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above,
i.e. which are capable of providing very good lightening or dyeing
performance qualities while at the same time having working qualities
that are superior to those of the existing compositions, especially
while having a less disagreeable odour during their application to the
fibres or during their preparation.
These aims and others are achieved by the present invention,
one subject of which is thus a cosmetic composition for lightening or
dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the
hair, comprising:
(a) one or more organic bases or salts thereof, these
compounds having a molecular weight of less than or equal to 300
g .mo1-1,
(b) one or more mineral bases,
(c) one or more organic or mineral acids in a content of greater
than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition,
(d) one or more fatty substances in a content of greater than or
equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
(e) one or more oxidizing agents, and
(f) optionally, one or more oxidation dyes when the
composition is a dyeing composition;
the pH of the composition being greater than or equal to 7.
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According to a first embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a
dye composition.
According to a second embodiment, the cosmetic composition
is a lightening composition.
According to an embodiment, the composition is a composition
for simultaneously dyeing and lightening keratin fibres.
A subject of the present invention is also processes for
lightening or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres
such as the hair, in which the cosmetic composition according to the
invention is applied to the said fibres.
The invention also relates to a multi-compartment device for
using the composition according to the invention.
The compositions according to the invention thus provide very
good performance qualities in terms of lightening keratin fibres.
When it is used with oxidation dyes, a dye composition is
obtained which has the additional advantage of providing powerful,
intense, chromatic and/or sparingly selective colorations, i.e.
colorations that are uniform along the fibre.
These compositions also give particularly good coverage of
depigmented keratin fibres such as grey hair.
Moreover, the lightening or dyeing processes according to the
invention also allow the use of compositions that are less malodorous
during their application to keratin fibres or during their preparation.
In addition, for equivalent efficacy, the compositions
according to the invention have a substantially lower pH than the
existing lightening or dye compositions, which induces better comfort
for the scalp.
Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will
emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that
follow.
In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the
limits of a range of values are included within that range.
The human keratin fibres treated via the process according to
the invention are preferably the hair.
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The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression
"one or more".
(a) Organic bases
5
The composition according to the invention contains one or
more organic bases or salts thereof, these compounds having a
molecular weight of less than or equal to 300 g.mo1-1.
The organic bases or salts thereof used in the composition
according to the invention are more particularly chosen from amines
and preferably from organic amines with a pKb at 25 C of less than
12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6.
It should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the functional
group of highest basicity.
According to a first variant of the invention, the organic base
comprises a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and one or
more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more
hydroxyl radicals.
Organic bases chosen from alkanolamines such as
monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising
one to three identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in
particular suitable for use.
Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of
mono ethano lamine, diethano lamine,
triethano lamine,
mono isopropano lamine, diisopropanolamine, N-
dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2 -
amino -2-methyl-1 -propanol,
triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-
propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino - 1 ,2-propanediol and
tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
Also suitable for use are the organic bases of the following
formula:
Rx Rz
Ry 7 N W - N
Rt
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in which W is a C1-C6 alkylene residue optionally substituted
with a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt,
which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a
C1-C6 alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or Ci-C6 aminoalkyl radical.
Examples of such amines that may be mentioned include 1,3-
diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
According to a second variant of the invention, the organic
base is chosen from amino acids.
More particularly, the amino acids that may be used are of
natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and
comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from
carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid
functions. The amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids
comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring
or in a ureido function.
Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those
corresponding to formula (I) below:
/N H2
R¨CH2 ¨CH \ (I)
CO2H
in which R denotes a group chosen from:
,
NH1 -(CH2)3NF12;
-(CH2)2NF12; -(CH2)2NHCONH2.
-(CH2)2NH- C ¨NH2
11
N
H
The compounds corresponding to formula (I) are histidine,
lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
As amino acids that can be used in the present invention,
mention may be made especially of aspartic acid, glutamic acid,
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alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine,
glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine,
N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan,
tyrosine and valine.
The amino acids that are particularly preferred are arginine,
lysine and histidine, or mixtures thereof.
According to a third variant of the invention, the organic base
is chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine
that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in
particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole,
tetrazole and benzimidazole.
According to a fourth variant of the invention, the organic base
is chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that
may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be
made of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
According to a fifth variant of the invention, the organic base
is chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Thus, the
organic amine may be chosen from guanidine, arginine that has
already been mentioned as an amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-
dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin,
agmatine, N-amidino alanine, 3 - guanidinopropionic acid, 4-
guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-
sulfonic acid.
As regards the abovementioned amine salts, they may be
organic or mineral.
More particularly, the organic salts are chosen from organic
acid salts such as citrates, lactates, glycolates, gluconates, acetates,
propionates, fumarates, oxalates and tartrates.
Even more particularly, the mineral salts are chosen from
hydrohalides (for example hydrochlorides), carbonates, hydrogen
carbonates, sulfates, hydrogen phosphates and phosphates.
Preferably, the organic base is an alkanolamine. More
particularly, the organic base is chosen from 2-amino-2-methyl-1-
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propanol and monoethanolamine, or mixtures thereof. Even more
preferentially, the organic base is monoethanolamine.
The organic base(s) or salts thereof may be present in the
lightening composition according to the invention in a content ranging
from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1%
to 4% by weight and more preferentially in a content ranging from
1.5% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition.
(b) Mineral bases
The composition according to the invention also contains one
or more mineral bases.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mineral
base" means aqueous ammonia or any compound bearing in its
structure one or more elements from groups 1 to 13 of the Periodic
Table of the Elements other than hydrogen.
Preferably, the mineral bases used in the dye composition do
not comprise in their structure one or more nitrogen atoms.
According to one embodiment, the mineral base(s) contain one
or more elements from groups 1 and 2 of the Periodic Table of the
Elements other than hydrogen.
In a preferred variant, the mineral base(s) have the following
structure (T):
(Zix-)m(Z2Y'). (T)
in which:
Z2 denotes a metal from columns 1 to 13 and preferably 1 or 2
of the Periodic Table of the Elements, such as sodium or potassium;
Zix- denotes an anion chosen from the ions C032-, OW, HC032-,
Si032-, HP042-, P043- and B4072-, and preferably from the ions C032-,
OW and Si032-;
x denotes 1, 2 or 3;
y denotes 1, 2, 3 or 4;
m and n denote, independently of each other, 1, 2, 3 or 4;
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with n.y = m.x.
Preferably, the mineral base corresponds to the following
formula (Z1x-)m(Z2Y)õ, in which Z2 denotes a metal from columns 1
and 2 of the Periodic Table of the Elements; Z1x- denotes an anion
chosen from the ions C032-, OW, HC032- and Si032-, x is 1, y denotes
1 or 2, and m and n denote, independently of each other, 1 or 2 with
n.y = m.x.
As mineral base (T) that may be used according to the
invention, mention may be made of sodium carbonate, potassium
carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium
hydroxide, sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate.
Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal carbonate or
bicarbonate.
The mineral base(s) may be present in the lightening
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1%
to 20% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 1% to 10% by
weight and more preferentially in a content ranging from 2% to 6% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(c) Organic or mineral acids
The composition according to the invention contains one or
more organic or mineral acids in a content of greater than or equal to
0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic or
mineral acid" means an organic or mineral acid and/or the associated
bases thereof with a pKa of less than or equal to 7, preferably less
than or equal to 6, especially ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from
2 to 5.
In a first variant, the acids used in the dye composition
according to the invention are chosen from organic acids, especially
carboxylic and/or sulfonic acids.
More preferentially, the organic acids are chosen from
saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids, in particular propanoic acid,
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butanoic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic
acid, salicylic acid, malic acid and tartaric acid.
Preferably, the carboxylic acids are hydroxy acids.
Preferably, the acids used in the dye composition are chosen
5 from tartaric acid, lactic acid and citric acid, or mixtures thereof.
In a second variant, the acids used in the dye composition
according to the invention are chosen from mineral acids and in
particular from hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid and
phosphoric acid, in particular from hydrochloric acid and phosphoric
10 acid.
Preferably, the mineral acid (or inorganic acid) is phosphoric
acid.
The organic or mineral acid(s) may be present in the dye
composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.2%
to 10% by weight, preferably in a content ranging from 0.2% to 2% by
weight and more preferentially in a content ranging from 0.2% to 1%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(d) Fatty substances
The composition according to the invention contains one or
more fatty substances in a content of greater than or equal to 10% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound that is
insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 C) and at atmospheric
pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably of less
than 1% and more preferably still of less than 0.1%). They have in
their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at
least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In
addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents
under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance
chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene,
toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
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Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention do not contain
any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (-C(0)0H or
-C(0)0-). Particularly, the fatty substances of the invention are
neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.
Preferably, the fatty substances that may be used in the
composition according to the invention are oils, preferably non-
silicone oils.
The term "oil" means a "fatty substance" that is liquid at room
temperature (25 C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
The term "non-silicone oil" means an oil not containing any
silicon atoms (Si) and the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing
at least one silicon atom.
More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16
hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms,
non-silicone oils of animal origin, plant oils of triglyceride type,
synthetic triglycerides, fluoro oils, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids
and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and plant waxes, non-
silicone waxes and silicones.
It is recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the fatty
alcohols, fatty esters and fatty acids more particularly contain one or
more linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based
groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally
substituted, in particular, with one or more (in particular 1 to 4)
hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may
comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon
double bonds.
As regards the C6-C16 hydrocarbons, they are linear or
branched, and possibly cyclic, and are preferably alkanes. Examples
that may be mentioned include hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins such
as isohexadecane and isodecane.
A hydrocarbon-based oil of animal origin that may be
mentioned is perhydrosqualene.
The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably
chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30
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carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or
alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil,
marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil,
macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid
triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries
Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by
the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
The linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic
origin containing more than 16 carbon atoms are preferably chosen
from liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly,
polydecenes, and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam .
The fluoro oils may be chosen
from
perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane,
sold under the names Flutec PC1 and Flutec PC3 by the company
BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-
dimethylcyclobutane;
perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and
tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050 and PF 5060
by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name
Foralkyl by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and
nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as
4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052
by the company 3M.
The fatty alcohols that may be used in the composition
according to the invention are saturated or unsaturated, and linear or
branched, and comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more
particularly from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for
example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof
(cetearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-
undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol.
The wax(es) that may be used in the composition according to
the invention are chosen especially from carnauba wax, candelilla
wax, esparto grass wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, for
instance olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute
waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom
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sold by the company Bertin (France), animal waxes, for instance
beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy
starting materials that may be used according to the invention are
especially marine waxes such as the product sold by the company
Sophim under the reference M82, and polyethylene waxes or
polyolefin waxes in general.
As regards the esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol,
which are advantageously different than the triglycerides mentioned
above, mention may be made especially of esters of saturated or
unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids
and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C26 aliphatic
mono- or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters more
particularly being greater than or equal to 10.
Among the monoesters, mention may be made of
dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate;
cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate;
linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso)stearyl octanoate; isocetyl
octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl
isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate;
isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl
acetyl ricinoleate; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl
isononanoate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate;
octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, 2-
ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as
isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, myristyl or stearyl myristate,
hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl
laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.
Still within the context of this variant, esters of C4-C22
dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters
of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26
dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may
also be used.
Mention may be made especially of: diethyl sebacate;
diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl
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adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate;
octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;
pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl
tetraoctanoate;
propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl
erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate;
glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate;
propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.
Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl,
isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl
or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl
stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl
isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters
and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled
that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based
compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without
aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon
atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or
polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include
sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose,
fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives
thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for
instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from
the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars
described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or
unsaturated C6-C30, and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are
unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated
or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
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The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from
monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures
thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates,
5
myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates,
caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially,
oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and
in particular mono- or di-oleate, -stearate, -behenate, -oleopalmitate,
10 -
linoleate, -linolenate or -oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or
methylglucose.
An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under
the name Glucate0 DO by the company Amerchol, which is a
methylglucose dioleate.
15
Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of sugar and of fatty
acid that may also be mentioned include:
- the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90,
F70 and SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose
palmitostearates formed from 73% monoester and 27% diester and
triester, from 61% monoester and 39% diester, triester and tetraester,
from 52% monoester and 48% diester, triester and tetraester, from
45% monoester and 55% diester, triester and tetraester, from 39%
monoester and 61% diester, triester and tetraester, and sucrose
mono laurate;
- the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for
example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate
formed from 20% monoester and 80% diester-triester-polyester;
- the sucrose monopalmitostearate-dipalmitostearate sold by
the company Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.
The silicones that may be used in accordance with the
invention may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.
Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in
particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), and organomodified
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polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from
amino groups, aryl groups and alkoxy groups.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter
Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
They may be volatile or nonvolatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly
chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 C and 260 C,
and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and
preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name
Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V2 by
Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile
Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide and Silbione 70045 V5 by Rhodia,
and mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone
FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
rD" D' ____________________________________ D" D'
CH3 CH3
where D" : Si ¨ 0 ¨ where D' : ¨ Si ¨ 0 ¨
I
CH3 C3H17
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic
polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the
mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetra(trimethylsilyl)pentaerythrito 1 (50/50) and the mixture of
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2,2 ' ,2 ',3,3
hexatrimethylsilylo xy)neopentane;
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2
to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5x
10-6 m2/s at 25 C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in
particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.
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Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article
published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32,
Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics.
Use is preferably made of non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes,
polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified
with the organofunctional groups above, and mixtures thereof.
These silicones are more particularly chosen from
polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes having trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity
of the silicones is measured at 25 C according to ASTM Standard 445
Appendix C.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a
nonlimiting manner, of the following commercial products:
- the Silbione oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil
oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil series sold by the company Rhodia;
- the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning,
such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2/s;
- the Viscasil oils from General Electric and certain oils of
the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing
dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name Dimethiconol
(CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be
made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax 9800 and 9801
by the company Goldschmidt, which are poly(Ci-C20)dialkylsiloxanes.
The silicone gums that may be used in accordance with the
invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and preferably
polydimethylsiloxanes with high number-average molecular weights of
between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or as a mixture in a
solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones,
polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS)
oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane,
dodecane and tridecane, or mixtures thereof.
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Products that can be used more particularly in accordance with
the invention are mixtures such as:
- the mixtures formed from a hydroxy-terminated
polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic
polydimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as
the product Q2 1401 sold by Dow Corning;
- mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone,
such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General
Electric; this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone,
having a number-average molecular weight of 500 000, dissolved in
the oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;
- mixtures of two PDMSs with different viscosities, and more
particularly of a PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the product
SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is a
mixture of a gum SE 30 defined above with a viscosity of 20 m2/s and
of an oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5x10-6 m2/s. This product
preferably comprises 15% of gum SE 30 and 85% of an oil SF 96.
The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance
with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the
following units:
R25i02/2, R35i01/2, R5iO3/2 and 5i0412
in which R represents an alkyl containing 1 to 16 carbon
atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are
those in which R denotes a lower C1-C4 alkyl group, more particularly
methyl.
Among these resins, mention may be made of the product sold
under the name Dow Corning 593 or those sold under the names
Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267 by the company General Electric,
which are silicones of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxane structure.
Mention may also be made of the trimethyl siloxysilicate type
resins sold especially under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-
5037 by the company Shin-Etsu.
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The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance
with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising
in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a
hydrocarbon-based group.
The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in
particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and
polyalkylarylsiloxanes
functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear
and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and
polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1x10-5 to
5x102 m2/s at 25 C.
Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, examples that may be
mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
- the Silbione0 oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia;
- the oils of the Rhodorsil0 70 633 and 763 series from
Rho dia;
- the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow
Corning;
- the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product
PK20;
- the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the
products PN1000 and PH1000;
- certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF
1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
Mention may also be made, among the organomodified
silicones, of polyorganosiloxanes comprising:
- substituted or unsubstituted amine groups, such as the
products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the
company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and
Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The
substituted amine groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups;
- alkoxy groups such as the product sold under the name
Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones, and Abil Wax 2428,
2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt.
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Preferably, the fatty substances that may be used in the
lightening composition according to the invention are non-silicone
fatty substances.
More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from
5 compounds that are liquid or pasty at room temperature (25 C) and at
atmospheric pressure.
Preferably, the fatty substance is a compound that is liquid at a
temperature of 25 C and at atmospheric pressure (oils).
Even more preferentially, as indicated previously, the fatty
10 substances used in the lightening composition according to the
invention are liquid and non-silicone.
The fatty substances are advantageously chosen from C6-C16
hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms,
triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty
15 alcohol other than triglycerides, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from liquid
petroleum jelly, polydecenes, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid esters of
a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, or mixtures thereof.
Even more preferentially, the fatty substances are chosen from
20 liquid petroleum jelly and octyldodecanol.
The composition according to the invention has a content of
fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in particular of
oils, preferably non-silicone oils, of greater than or equal to 15% by
weight, preferably of greater than or equal to 20% by weight, better
still of greater than or equal to 25% by weight relative to the total
weight of the composition.
More particularly, the composition according to the invention
has a content of fatty substances, which are preferably non-silicone, in
particular of oils, preferably non-silicone oils, ranging from 10% to
80% by weight, preferably from 15% to 80% by weight, more
preferably from 25% to 75% by weight, better still from 30% to 70%
by weight and even more advantageously from 30% to 60% by weight
relative to the weight of the composition.
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(e) Oxidizing agent
The composition according to the invention also comprises one
or more oxidizing agents.
More particularly, the oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from
hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or
ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance persulfates,
perborates, peracids and precursors thereof and percarbonates of alkali
metals or alkaline-earth metals.
Preferably, this oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide optionally
combined with one or more peroxygenated salts.
This oxidizing agent advantageously consists of hydrogen
peroxide, in particular in aqueous solution (aqueous hydrogen
peroxide solution), the concentration of which may range more
particularly from 0.1% to 50% by weight, even more preferentially
from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1% to 15% by
weight relative to the dye composition.
Depending on the desired degree of lightening, the oxidizing
agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent preferably chosen from
peroxygenated salts.
(f) Oxidation dyes
The composition according to the invention optionally
comprises one or more oxidation dyes when the composition is a dye
composition.
The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from oxidation bases
optionally combined with one or more couplers.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-
phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols,
ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts
thereof.
Among the para-phenylenediamines, examples that may be
mentioned include para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-
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chloro -para-phenylenediamine, 2,3 - dimethyl-p ara-phenylenedi amine,
2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-
diethyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2,5 -dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-
dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine,
N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino -N,N-
di ethyl- 3 -
methylaniline, N,N-bis(13-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-
N,N-bis(13-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-
N,N¨bis(I3-
hydro xyethyl)amino -2 - chloro aniline, 2-
f3-hydroxyethyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-
phenylenediamine, N-(13-hydroxypropy1)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-
hydro xymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethy1-3 -methyl-p ara-
phenylene diamine, N,N-
(ethyl-13- hydroxyethyl)-p ara-
phenylenediamine, N-(13,y-dihydroxypropy1)-para-phenylenediamine,
N-(4'-aminopheny1)-para-phenylenediamine, N-
phenyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-
acetylaminoethylo xy-para-phenylenediamine, N-
(13-methoxyethyl)-
para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethylamino-5-aminotoluene and 3-
hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine, and the addition salts thereof
with an acid.
Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-
phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-
isopropyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2 -13- hydroxyethyl-p ara-phenylenediamine, 2-
0-
hydro xyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-
dimethyl-para-
phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-
para-phenylenediamine, N,N-
bis(13-hydroxyethyl)-para-
phenylenediamine, 2 - chloro -para-phenylenediamine and 2-
0-
acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and the addition salts
thereof with an acid, are particularly preferred.
Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, examples that may be
mentioned include
N,N'-bis(13-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-
aminopheny1)1,3 - diamino prop ano 1, N
,N'-bis(13-hydroxyethyl)-N ,N'-
bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine,
N,N'-bis(4-
aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(13-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-
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bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,
N,N'-bis(4-
methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine,
N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-
bis(4'-amino -3 '-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine, 1,8-
bis(2,5-
diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the addition salts thereof.
Among the para-aminophenols, examples that may be
mentioned include para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-
amino-3 - fluorophenol, 4-amino-3 -chloropheno 1, 4-
amino-3-
hydro xymethylphenol, 4-amino -2-methylphenol, 4-
amino -2-
hydro xymethylphenol, 4-amino -2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino -2-
aminomethylphenol, 4-amino -2-
(13-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)pheno1
and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol, and the addition salts thereof with an
acid.
Among the ortho-aminophenols, examples that may be
mentioned include 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-
6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and the addition salts
thereof.
Among the heterocyclic bases, examples that may be mentioned
include pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole
derivatives.
Among the pyridine derivatives, examples that may be
mentioned include the compounds described in patents GB 1 026 978
and GB 1 153 196, for instance 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-
(4-
methoxyphenyl)amino-3-aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine, and
the addition salts thereof.
Other pyridine oxidation bases that are useful in the present
invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or
the addition salts thereof, described, for example, in patent application
FR 2 801 308. Examples that may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-
a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo [1,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 2-
(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazo lo [1,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, 3-
aminopyrazolo [ 1,5 -a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-
methoxypyrazo lo [1,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine, (3 -
aminopyrazo lo [1,5 -
a]pyrid-7-yl)methano1, 2-
(3-aminopyrazolo [ 1,5 -a]pyrid-5 -ypethanol,
2-(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyrid-7-ypethanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-
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abyridin-2-yloxy)ethanol, (3 -
aminopyrazolo [1,5 -a]pyrid-2-
yl)methano1, 3 ,6-diaminopyrazo lo [1 ,5 -a]pyridine, 3,4-
diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine,
7-(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazo lo [1,5 -a]pyrid-3 -ylamine,
pyrazo lo [1,5 -
a]pyridine-3 ,5 -diamine, 5 -
(morpholin-4-yl)pyrazo lo [1,5 -a]pyrid-3 -
ylamine, 2-
[(3 -aminopyrazo lo [ 1,5 -a]pyrid-5 -y1)(2-
hydro xyethyl)amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyrid-7-y1)(2-
hydro xyethyl)amino]ethanol, 3 -aminopyrazo lo [ 1,5 -a]pyridin-5 -o 1, 3-
aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyridin-4-o 1, 3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a]pyridin-6-ol
and 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, and the addition salts
thereof. Salts of 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-2-yloxy)ethanol are
particularly appreciated.
Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the
compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399, JP
88169571, JP 05-63124 and EP 0 770 375 or patent application WO
96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-
triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydro xy-4
,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-
dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and the
addition salts thereof, and the tautomeric forms thereof, when a
tautomeric equilibrium exists.
Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the
compounds described in the patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and
patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and
DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-
(13-hydroxyethyppyrazo le, 3 ,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5 -diamino -1-(4'-
chlorobenzyppyrazole, 4,5 -diamino
-1,3 -dimethylpyrazole, 4,5 -
diamino -3 -methyl- 1-phenylpyrazo le, 4,5
-diamino -1 -methyl-3 -
phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethy1-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-
4,5 -diamino -3 -methylpyrazo le, 4,5
-diamino -3 -tert-butyl-1-
methylpyrazole, 4,5 -diamino -1 -tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5 -
diamino -1413-hydro xyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-ethy1-3-
methylpyrazole, 4,5
-diamino -1 -ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole,
4,5 -diamino -1 -ethyl-3 -hydro xymethylpyrazole, 4,5
-diamino -3 -
hydro xymethyl- 1 -methylpyrazo le, 4,5
-diamino -3 -hydroxymethyl-1 -
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isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methy1-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4-
amino-5 -(2'-amino ethyl)amino-1,3 -dimethylpyrazole,
3,4,5-
triaminopyrazole, 1 -
methyl-3 ,4,5 -triaminopyrazole, 3,5 -diamino-1 -
methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-
diamino-4-(13-
5
hydroxyethyl)amino-l-methylpyrazole, and the addition salts thereof.
4,5-Diamino-1-(13-methoxyethyppyrazole may also be used.
A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used, and even more
preferentially 4,5-diamino-1-(13-hydroxyethyppyrazole and/or a salt
thereof.
10
Pyrazole derivatives that may also be mentioned include
diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those
described in application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following
compounds and the addition salts thereof: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-
1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-
amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-
15 dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-l-one, 2-amino-
3-
isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one, 2-
amino-3 -(pyrrolidin- 1 -y1)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo [ 1,2-a]pyrazol-
1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethy1-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-
diamino-1,2-diethyl- 1,2-dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di(2-
20 hydroxyethyl)-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-
3-(2-
hydroxyethypamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol- 1-one,
2-amino-3 -dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo [ 1,2-a]pyrazol-
1-one, 2,3-
diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H,6H-pyridazino [1,2-
a]pyrazol- 1-one, 4-
amino-1,2-diethy1-5-(pyrrolidin-1 -y1)-1,2-
25 dihydropyrazol-3 -one, 4-amino-
5 -(3 -dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1 -y1)-
1,2-diethy1-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-
diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-
dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol- 1 -one.
Use will preferably be made of 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-
1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and/or a salt thereof.
Heterocyclic bases that will preferentially be used include 4,5-
diamino-1-(13-hydroxyethyppyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-
1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-l-one and/or a salt thereof.
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The composition according to the invention may optionally
comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those
conventionally used in the dyeing of keratin fibres.
Among these couplers, mention may be made especially of
meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminopheno ls, meta-
diphenols,
naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the
addition salts thereof.
Examples that may be mentioned include 1,3-
dihydroxybenzene, 1,3 -dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-
chloro -1,3 -
dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino -1 -(13-hydroxyethylo xy)benzene, 2-
amino -4-(13-hydroxyethylamino)-1 -metho xybenzene, 1,3-
diaminobenzene, 1,3 -bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-
ureidoaniline, 3 -ureido - 1 -dimethylaminobenzene, sesamo 1, 1-
13-
hydro xyethylamino -3 ,4-methylenedio xybenzene, a-naphthol, 2-
methyl-l-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-
methylindo le, 2-amino -3 -hydroxypyridine, 6-
hydro xybenzomorpho line, 3,5 -diamino -2 ,6-dimetho xypyridine, 1 -N-
(13-hydroxyethypamino -3 ,4-methylenedio xybenzene, 2,6-
bis(13-
hydro xyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindo line,
2,6-dihydroxy-4-
methylpyridine, 1-H-3 -methylpyrazo 1-5 -one, 1-pheny1-3-
methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1,5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-
dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-
methylpyrazolo [ 1,5 -
a]benzimidazole, the addition salts thereof with an acid, and mixtures
thereof.
In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and
couplers that may be used in the context of the invention are
especially chosen from the addition salts with an acid such as the
hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates,
lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
When they are used, the oxidation base(s) each advantageously
represent from 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight
of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition.
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The content of coupler(s), if it is (they are) present, each
advantageously represent from 0.0001% to 10% by weight relative to
the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005% to 5%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
pH of the composition
The composition according to the invention has a pH greater
than or equal to 7. Preferably, the pH of the dye composition ranges
from 7 to 11, more preferentially from 8 to 10 and more preferentially
from 8.5 to 9.5.
According to an advantageous embodiment, the lightening or
dye composition according to the invention comprises:
(a) one or more organic bases with a molecular weight of less
than or equal to 300 g.mo1-1, chosen from alkanolamines, in particular
monoethano lamine,
(b) one or more mineral bases chosen from mineral bases
containing one or more elements from columns 1 and 2 of the Periodic
Table of the Elements other than hydrogen, in particular alkali metal
carbonates or bicarbonates,
(c) one or more organic or mineral acids in a content of greater
than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition,
(d) one or more fatty substances in a content of greater than or
equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
(e) one or more oxidizing agents, and
(f) optionally, one or more oxidation dyes when the
composition is a dye composition;
the pH of the said composition being greater than or equal to 7.
Preferably, in accordance with this embodiment, the pH of the
composition ranges from 7 to 9.5 and more preferentially from 8 to 9.
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Surfactants
The composition according to the invention may also contain
one or more surfactants.
Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from nonionic and
anionic surfactants.
The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising,
as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic
groups are preferably chosen from the following groups:
-C(0)0H, ¨C(0)0-, -S03H, -S(0)20-, -0S(0)20H, -OS(0)20-,
-P(0)0H2, -P(0)20-, -P(0)02-, -P(OH)2, =P(0)0H, -P(OH)0,
=P(0)0-, =POH, =PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic
counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal or an
ammonium.
As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the
composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl
sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl
polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates,
alkylsulfonates,
alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefin
sulfonates,
paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates,
alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates,
acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-
acyltaurates, polyglycoside polycarboxylic acid and alkyl monoester
salts, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactoside uronic acids, salts of alkyl
ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts
of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-
salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all
these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl
group denoting a phenyl group.
These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably
comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
The salts of C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-
polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-
citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl
polyglycoside-sulfo succinates.
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When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be
chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt
and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in
particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the
magnesium salts.
Examples of amino alcohol salts that may especially be
mentioned include monoethano lamine, diethanolamine and
triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine and
triisopropanolamine salts, and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-
2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and in particular
sodium or magnesium salts, are preferably used.
Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, use is preferably
made of (C6-C24)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C24)alkyl ether sulfates comprising
from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali
metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a
mixture of these compounds.
In particular, it is preferred to use (C12-C20)alkyl sulfates,
(C12-C20)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide
units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol
and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Better
still, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2
mol of ethylene oxide.
The additional nonionic surfactants are more particularly
chosen from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated,
monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The
oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene
units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be
mentioned include:
= oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;
= saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched
oxyalkylenated C8-C30 alcohols;
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= saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched
oxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides;
= esters of saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched C8-
C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
5 = saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;
= condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide,
inter alia, alone or as mixtures.
= oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones,
= alkyl(poly)glucosides.
10 The
surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide
and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2
and 50 and preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic
surfactants do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention,
15 the
additional nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyalkylenated
nonionic surfactants, in particular oxyethylenated C8-C30 alcohols
comprising from 1 to 100
mol of ethylene oxide, and
alkylpolyglucosides.
As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic
20
surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are
preferably used.
In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40
alcohols correspond to formula (II) below:
R290-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]m-H (II)
25 in which formula (II):
= R29 represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8'
C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical; and
= m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably
from 1 to 10.
30 As
examples of compounds of formula (II) that are suitable
within the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl
alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglycery1-4
Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl
alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglycery1-4
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Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name:
Polyglycery1-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of
glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl
alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6
mol of glycerol.
The alcohol of formula (II) may represent a mixture of alcohols
in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value,
which means that, in a commercial product, several species of
polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.
Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it
is more particularly preferred to use the C8-Cio alcohol containing 1
mol of glycerol, the C10-C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and
the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
Preferably, the additional surfactant used in the process of the
invention in the composition is a monooxyalkylenated or
polyoxyalkylenated, particularly monooxyethylenated or
polyoxyethylenated, or monooxypropylenated or polyoxypropylenated,
nonionic surfactant, or a combination thereof, more particularly
monooxyethylenated or polyoxyethylenated.
The alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s) may be
represented by formula (III) below:
Ri0-(R20)t (G)v (III)
in which:
R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched
alkyl group comprising from about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an
alkylphenyl group in which the linear or branched alkyl group
comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
R2 represents an alkylene group comprising from about 2 to 4
carbon atoms,
G represents a saccharide unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon
atoms,
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t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably from 0 to
4, and
v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15.
Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside nonionic surfactant(s)
correspond to formula (III) in which:
R1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl
group containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms,
G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose,
t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, and is preferably equal
to 0,
and R2 and v are as defined previously.
The degree of polymerization of the alkyl(poly)glycoside
nonionic surfactant(s) as represented, for example, by the index v in
formula (III) ranges on average from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to
4. This degree of polymerization more particularly ranges from 1 to 2
and better still from 1.1 to 1.5, on average.
The glycoside bonds between the saccharide units are of 1-6 or
1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
Compounds of formula (III) that may be used in the present
invention are especially represented by the products sold by the
company Cognis under the names Plantaren0 (600 CS/U, 1200 and
2000) or Plantacare0 (818, 1200 and 2000). It is also possible to use
the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names Triton CG
110 (or Oramix CG 110) and Triton CG 312 (or Oramix NS 10), the
products sold by the company BASF under the name Lutensol GD 70,
or those sold by the company Chem Y under the name AG10 LK.
It is also possible, for example, to use the 1,4- (C8-
C16)alkylpolyglucoside as an aqueous solution at 53% by weight
relative to the total weight of the solution, sold by Cognis under the
reference Plantacare0 818 UP.
The nonionic surfactant that may be used in the composition
according to the invention is the (C8-Cio)alkylglucoside sold under the
name Oramix CG 110 by the company SEPPIC.
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Solvent
The composition according to the invention may also comprise
one or more organic solvents.
Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include
linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol;
glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol,
propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl
ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol
monomethyl ether; and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance
benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
The solvent(s), if they are present, represent a content usually
ranging from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by
weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Additional dyes
When the composition of the invention is a dye composition, it
may also comprise one or more additional direct dyes. The latter dyes
are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic species,
preferably cationic or nonionic species. These direct dyes may be
synthetic or of natural origin.
Examples of suitable direct dyes that may be mentioned
include azo direct dyes; methine direct dyes; carbonyl direct dyes;
azine direct dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl direct dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane
direct dyes; porphyrin direct dyes; phthalocyanine direct dyes, and
natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
More particularly, the azo dyes comprise an -N=N- function,
the two nitrogen atoms of which are not simultaneously engaged in a
ring. However, it is not excluded for one of the two nitrogen atoms of
the sequence -N=N- to be engaged in a ring.
The dyes of the methine family are more particularly
compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from >C=C< and
¨N=C< in which the two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a
ring. However, it is pointed out that one of the nitrogen or carbon
atoms of the sequences may be engaged in a ring. More particularly,
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the dyes of this family are derived from compounds of the type such as
methines, azomethines, monoarylmethanes and diarylmethanes,
indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines,
carbocyanines, azacarbocyanines and isomers
thereof,
diazacarbocyanines and isomers thereof, tetraazacarbocyanines and
hemicyanines.
As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, examples that may
be mentioned include dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone,
anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone,
pyranthrone, pyrazo lanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone,
idanthrone, flavone,
(iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone,
benzimidazolone, isoquino lino ne,
anthrapyridone,
pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone,
indigo id, thio indigo,
naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine,
diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin.
As regards the dyes of the cyclic azine family, mention may be
made especially of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine,
acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine and pyronin.
The nitro(hetero)aromatic dyes are more particularly
nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
As regards the dyes of porphyrin or phthalocyanine type, it is
possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally
comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for instance alkali
metals, alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.
Examples of particularly suitable direct dyes that may be
mentioned include nitrobenzene dyes; azo direct dyes; azomethine
direct dyes; methine direct dyes; azacarbocyanine direct dyes, for
instance tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone and
in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct
dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct
dyes; indoamine direct dyes; indigoid direct dyes; phthalocyanine
direct dyes, porphyrin direct dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or as
mixtures.
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Among the natural dyes that may be used according to the
invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin,
purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid,
purpurogallin,
protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin,
5 haematin, haematoxylin, brasilin, brasilein and orceins. Use may also
be made of extracts or decoctions comprising these natural dyes and
especially henna-based poultices or extracts.
When they are present, the direct dye(s) more particularly
represent from 0.0001% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.005%
10 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
Other additives
The composition according to the invention may also contain
various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for lightening
15 or dyeing the hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or
zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in
particular fillers such as clays or talc; organic thickeners with, in
particular, anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric
associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants;
20 fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving
agents; opacifiers.
The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for
each of them of between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the
weight of the composition.
25 The
composition may especially comprise one or more mineral
thickeners chosen from organophilic clays and fumed silicas, or
mixtures thereof.
The organophilic clay may be chosen from montmorillonite,
bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite and sepiolite, and mixtures thereof.
30 The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.
These clays may be modified with a chemical compound chosen
from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amine acetates, imidazolines,
amine soaps, fatty sulfates, alkylarylsulfonates and amine oxides, and
mixtures thereof.
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Mention may be made, as organophilic clays, of quaternium-18
bentonites, such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38
and Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by the company United
Catalyst and Claytone 34, Claytone 40 and Claytone XL by the
company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites, such as those sold
under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company
United Catalyst and Claytone AF and Claytone APA by the company
Southern Clay; and quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonites, such as
those sold under the names Claytone HT and Claytone PS by the
company Southern Clay.
The fumed silicas may be obtained by high-temperature
hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame,
producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible
especially to obtain hydrophilic silicas which bear a large number of
silanol groups at their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are sold, for
example, under the names Aerosil 130 , Aerosil 200 , Aerosil 255 ,
Aerosil 300 and Aerosil 380 by the company Degussa, and Cab-0-
Sil HS-5 , Cab-O-Sil EH-5 , Cab-O-Sil LM-130 , Cab-O-Sil MS-
55 and Cab-O-Sil M-5 by the company Cabot.
It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica via
chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. It is
possible in particular to replace silanol groups with hydrophobic
groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
The hydrophobic groups may be:
- trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by
treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas
thus treated are known as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th
Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references
Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa and Cab-O-Sil TS-530 by
the company Cabot.
- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are
obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of
polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated
are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th
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Edition, 1995). They are sold, for example, under the references
Aerosil R972 and Aerosil R974 by the company Degussa, and Cab-
O-Sil TS-610 and Cab-O-Sil TS-720 by the company Cabot.
The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be
nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to
200 nm.
When it is present, the mineral thickener represents from 1% to
30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
The composition may also comprise one or more organic
thickeners.
These thickeners may be chosen from fatty acid amides
(coconut monoethanolamide or diethanolamide, oxyethylenated
carboxylic acid monoethanolamide alkyl ether), polymeric thickeners
such as cellulose-based thickeners
(hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxypropylcel-lulo se or carboxymethylcellulo se), guar gum and
derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin
(xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), acrylic acid or
acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid crosslinked homopolymers and
associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic regions and
fatty-chain hydrophobic regions (alkyl or alkenyl containing at least
10 carbon atoms) that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of
reversibly combining with each other or with other molecules).
According to a specific embodiment, the organic thickener is
chosen from cellulose-based thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and
derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin
(xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum) and crosslinked homopolymers of
acrylic acid or of acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from
cellulose-based thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.
The content of organic thickener(s), if they are present, usually
ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5%
by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
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The composition of the invention may be in various forms, for
instance a solution, an emulsion (milk or cream) or a gel, preferably in
the form of an emulsion and particularly of a direct emulsion.
Preferably, the lightening or dyeing composition according to
the invention comprises:
(a) one or more organic bases with a molecular weight of less
than or equal to 300 g.mo1-1, chosen from alkanolamines, in particular
monoethano lamine,
(b) one or more mineral bases chosen from mineral bases
containing one or more elements from columns 1 and 2 of the Periodic
Table of the Elements other than hydrogen, in particular alkali metal
carbonates or bicarbonates,
(c) one or more organic or mineral acids in a content of greater
than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition,
(d) one or more fatty substances chosen from non-silicone oils,
in a content of greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of the composition,
(e) one or more oxidizing agents, and
(f) optionally, one or more oxidation dyes when the
composition is a dye composition;
the pH of the said composition being greater than or equal to 7.
More preferentially, the lightening or dye composition
according to the invention comprises:
(a) one or more organic bases with a molecular weight of less
than or equal to 300 g.mo1-1, chosen from alkanolamines, in particular
monoethano lamine,
(b) one or more mineral bases chosen from mineral bases
containing one or more elements from columns 1 and 2 of the Periodic
Table of the Elements other than hydrogen, in particular alkali metal
carbonates or bicarbonates,
(c) one or more organic or mineral acids in a content of greater
than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition,
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(d) one or more fatty substances chosen from non-silicone oils
present in a content ranging from 15% to 80% by weight, preferably
from 25% to 75% by weight, better still from 30% to 70% by weight
and even more advantageously from 30% to 60% by weight relative to
the weight of the composition,
(e) one or more oxidizing agents, and
(f) optionally, one or more oxidation dyes when the
composition is a dye composition;
the pH of the composition ranges from 7 to 9.5 and more preferentially
from 8 to 9.
Processes of the invention
A subject of the present invention is also a process for
lightening or dyeing keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres
such as the hair, in which the lightening or dye composition as defined
previously is applied to the said fibres.
The lightening process according to the invention consists in
applying the composition comprising at least ingredients (a) to (e) as
defined previously to wet or dry keratin fibres.
The dyeing process according to the invention consists in
applying the composition comprising at least ingredients (a) to (f) as
defined previously to wet or dry keratin fibres.
The compositions are left in place on the fibres for a time
generally of from 1 minute to 1 hour and preferably from 5 minutes to
minutes.
The temperature during the lightening or dyeing process is
conventionally between room temperature (between 15 C and 25 C)
and 80 C and preferably between room temperature and 60 C.
30 After the treatment, the human keratin fibres are optionally
rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed
with water, before being dried or left to dry.
The composition according to the invention is preferably
prepared by mixing at least two compositions.
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In a first variant of the invention, the lightening or dye
composition according to the invention comprising, respectively, at
least ingredients (a) to (e) or (a) to (f) as defined previously results
from the mixing of two compositions:
5 - a
composition (A) comprising (c) one or more organic or
mineral acids and (e) one or more oxidizing agents, and
- a composition (B) comprising (a) one or more organic bases
or salts thereof with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 300
g.mo1-1 as defined previously, and (b) one or more mineral bases as
10 defined previously;
at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) comprising (d) one
or more fatty substances, and composition (B) optionally comprising
(f) one or more oxidation dyes when the composition is a dye
composition;
15 such
that the content of organic or mineral acids (c) in the
composition according to the invention resulting from the mixing of
compositions (A) + (B) is greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight
relative to the total weight of the composition, such that the content of
fatty substances (d) in the composition according to the invention
20
resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) + (B) is greater than or
equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
and such that the pH of the composition according to the invention
resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) + (B) is greater than or
equal to 7.
25
Preferentially, at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) is
aqueous.
Even more preferentially, both the compositions (A) and (B)
are aqueous.
The term "aqueous composition" means a composition
30
comprising at least 5% water. Preferably, an aqueous composition
comprises more than 10% by weight of water and even more
advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.
Preferably, composition (A) is aqueous.
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Preferentially, composition (A) comprises at least 10% by
weight of fatty substances and even more preferentially at least 10%
by weight of non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room
temperature (25 C).
Better still, composition (A) comprises at least 20% by weight
of fatty substances and even more preferentially at least 20% by
weight of non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room
temperature (25 C).
Even better still, composition (A) comprises at least 30% by
weight of fatty substances and even more preferentially at least 30%
by weight of non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room
temperature (25 C).
Preferably, composition (A) is a direct or inverse emulsion and
preferably a direct (0/W) emulsion.
More preferentially, composition (A) comprises at least 10% by
weight of fatty substances, in particular 10% by weight of non-silicone
fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 C) and
composition (B) comprises at least 10% by weight of fatty substances,
especially of non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room
temperature (25 C).
Better still, composition (A) comprises at least 20% by weight
of fatty substances, in particular 10% by weight of non-silicone fatty
substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 C) and composition
(B) comprises at least 20% by weight of fatty substances, especially of
non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature
(25 C).
Even better still, composition (A) comprises at least 30% by
weight of fatty substances, in particular 10% by weight of non-silicone
fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 C) and
composition (B) comprises at least 30% by weight of fatty substances,
especially of non-silicone fatty substances that are liquid at room
temperature (25 C).
Compositions (A) and (B) are preferably mixed in a weight
ratio (A)/(B) ranging from 0.2 to 10 and better still from 0.5 to 2.
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In accordance with this embodiment, the lightening or dyeing
process thus consists in applying to the keratin fibres the composition
derived from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) mentioned above.
In a second variant of the invention, the lightening or dye
composition according to the invention comprising, respectively, at
least ingredients (a) to (e) or (a) to (f) as defined previously results
from the mixing of three compositions:
- a composition (A) comprising (c) one or more organic or
mineral acids and (e) one or more oxidizing agents, and
- a composition (B) comprising (a) one or more organic bases
or salts thereof with a molecular weight of less than or equal to 300
g.mo1-1 as defined previously, and (b) one or more mineral bases as
defined previously; and
- a composition (C) comprising (d) one or more fatty
substances as defined previously;
composition (B) optionally comprising (f) one or more
oxidation dyes when the composition is a dye composition;
such that the content of organic or mineral acids (c) in the
composition according to the invention resulting from the mixing of
compositions (A) + (B) + (C) is greater than or equal to 0.2% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition, such that the
content of fatty substances (d) in the composition according to the
invention resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) + (B) + (C) is
greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition and such that the pH of the composition according to
the invention resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) + (B) +
(C) is greater than or equal to 7.
Preferably, composition (C) comprises (d) one or more fatty
substances chosen from the oils as defined previously.
Device
Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device
comprising a first compartment containing composition (A) as
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described above and at least a second compartment containing
composition (B) as described above, and optionally a third
compartment containing composition (C) as described previously, the
compositions in the compartments being intended to be mixed together
before application, to give the formulation after mixing according to
the invention, on condition that the content of organic or mineral acid
is greater than or equal to 0.2% by weight relative to the weight of the
formulation derived from the mixing of (A) + (B) or (A) + (B) + (C),
such that the content of fatty substance is greater than or equal to 10%
by weight relative to the weight of the formulation derived from the
mixing of (A) + (B) or (A) + (B) + (C) and such that the pH of the
formulation derived from the mixing of (A) + (B) or (A) + (B) + (C) is
greater than or equal to 7.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention
without, however, being limiting in nature.
In these examples, the colour of the locks was evaluated in the
CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D
colorimeter.
In this L* a* b* system, the three parameters denote,
respectively, the colour intensity (L*), the green/red colour axis (a*)
and the blue/yellow colour axis (b*). The higher the value of L*, the
lighter the colour. The higher the value of a*, the redder the colour
and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the colour.
The variation or extent of the lightening between locks of
untreated natural grey (NG) hair and locks of hair after treatment is
defined by the parameter DE* and is calculated according to the
following equation:
DE* = V(L* ¨ *)- (a* ¨ a o *) (b* ¨ b 0 *)2
(i)
In this equation, the parameters L*, a* and b* represent the
values measured on locks of grey hair after lightening and the
parameters Lo*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on locks of
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untreated grey hair. The greater the value of AEab*, the better the
lightening of the keratin fibres.
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EXAMPLES
I. Lightening compositions
5 a. Compositions
The oxidizing compositions Al, A2 and A3, on the one hand,
and compositions B1 and B2, on the other hand, in which the amounts
are expressed as weight percentages of active material, are prepared.
Composition Composition Composition
Al A2 A3
Hydrogen peroxide as
an aqueous solution at 12 12 12
50% by weight (6 of active (6 of active (6 of active
material) material) material)
Phosphoric acid - 0.1 4
Etidronic acid,
tetrasodium salt, as a 0.2 0.2 0.2
30% aqueous solution (0.06 of (0.06 of (0.06
of
active active active
material) material) material)
Tetrasodium 0.04 0.04 0.04
pyrophosphate
decahydrate
Citric acid 3 - 3
Sodium salicylate 0.035 0.035 0.035
Liquid petroleum jelly 50 50 50
Acrylamide/sodium
acrylamido-2- 2 2 2
methylpropanesulfonate
copolymer
Vitamin E: DL-alpha- 0.1 0.1 0.1
tocopherol
Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
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Composition Composition
B1 B2
Monoethanolamine 4 4
(50/50 C8/Cio)Alkyl
polyglucoside as an 2 2
aqueous solution at 60% (1.2 of active (1.2 of active
by weight material) material)
Liquid petroleum jelly 60 60
Sodium bicarbonate 10 -
Xanthan gum 1 1
Water qs 100 qs 100
b. Procedure
At the time of use, the following are mixed together:
- 1 part by weight of composition (Al) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B1) (invention) (pH of the mixture = 8.3)
- 1 part by weight of composition (Al) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B2) (comparative) (pH of the mixture = 9.2)
- 1 part by weight of composition (A2) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B1) (comparative) (pH of the mixture = 9.2)
- 1 part by weight of composition (A2) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B2) (comparative) (pH of the mixture = 10.1)
- 1 part by weight of composition (A3) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B1) (comparative) (pH of the mixture = 5).
Each mixture is applied to a lock of chestnut-brown pigmented
natural Caucasian hair (HT4). The "mixture/lock" bath ratio is,
respectively, 10/1 (g/g).
The leave-on time is 30 minutes on a hotplate set at 27 C.
After this time, the locks are rinsed and then washed with iN0A POST
shampoo (pH = 5.3 0.3). Finally, the locks are dried under a hood at
40 C.
The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b*
system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.
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c. Results
The results on the locks of chestnut-brown pigmented
Caucasian hair (HT4) are given in the table below:
Reference Hair Hair Hair Hair
Hair
dyed dyed dyed dyed
dyed
with with with with
with
HT4 A1+ B1 A1+B2 A2+B1 A2+B2 A3+ B1
(Inv) (Comp) (Comp) (Comp) (Comp)
L* 24.3 37.5 28.76 30.61 30.91
25.82
a* 2.9 8.9 7.27 8.75 8.72 4.09
b* 3.7 17.1 9.72 12.55 12.91 5.2
DE* - 19.6 8.6 12.3 12.7 2.4
Standard - 0.9 0.7 0.8 1.2 0.6
deviation
It is noted that the lightening obtained with the mixture Al+B1
according to the invention is more pronounced.
A similar result would be obtained by replacing in composition
Al the citric acid with phosphoric acid in order to obtain in the end
the same mixture pH (8.3).
20
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II. Dye compositions
a. Compositions
The oxidizing compositions Al and A3, on the one hand, and
compositions B1 and B2, on the other hand, in which the amounts are
expressed as weight percentages of active material, are prepared.
Composition Al Composition A3
Hydrogen peroxide as
an aqueous solution at 12 12
50% by weight (6 of active (6 of active
material) material)
Phosphoric acid - 4
Etidronic acid,
tetrasodium salt, as a 0.2 0.2
30% aqueous solution (0.06 of active (0.06 of active
material) material)
Tetrasodium 0.04 0.04
pyrophosphate
decahydrate
Citric acid 3 3
Sodium salicylate 0.035 0.035
Liquid petroleum jelly 50 50
Acrylamide/sodium
acrylamido-2- 2 2
methylpropanesulfonate
copolymer
Vitamin E: DL-alpha- 0.1 0.1
Tocopherol
Water qs 100 qs 100
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Composition B1 Composition B2
Monoethanolamine 4 4
(50/50 C8/C10)Alkyl
polyglucoside as an 2 2
aqueous solution at (1.2 of active (1.2 of active
60% by weight material) material)
Liquid petroleum jelly 60 60
Sodium bicarbonate 10 -
Xanthan gum 1 1
para-Phenylenediamine 0.432 0.432
2,4- 0.964 0.964
Diaminophenoxyethanol
Water qs 100 qs 100
b. Procedure
At the time of use, the following are mixed together:
- 1 part by weight of composition (Al) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B1) (invention) (pH of the mixture = 8.3)
- 1 part by weight of composition (Al) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B2) (comparative) (pH of the mixture = 9.2)
- 1 part by weight of composition (A3) and 1 part by weight of
composition (B1) (comparative) (pH of the mixture = 5)
Each mixture is applied to a lock of chestnut-brown pigmented
natural Caucasian hair (HT4) and to Caucasian hair containing 90%
white hairs. The "mixture/lock" bath ratio is respectively 10/1 (g/g).
The leave-on time is 30 minutes on a hotplate set at 27 C.
After this time, the locks are rinsed and then washed with iN0A POST
shampoo (pH = 5.3 0.3). Finally, the locks are dried under a hood at
40 C.
The colour of the locks was evaluated visually.
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c. Results
The results of the coloration on the locks of Caucasian hair
5 containing 90% white
hairs are given in the table below:
Reference Hair Hair dyed Hair
dyed
dyed with with
with Al +B2 A3+ B1
Al + B1 (Comp.) (Comp.)
(Inv)
General 90% Black Dark Blue
colour white blue
It is noted that the colour obtained with the mixture Al+B1
according to the invention is darker.
10 A similar result would be obtained by replacing in composition
Al the citric acid with phosphoric acid in order to obtain in the end
the same mixture pH (8.3).
