Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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Processes and installations for dyeing synthetic fibers and dyed fibers and
fabrics containing said dyed fibers
The present invention pertains to processes and installations for dyeing
synthetic
fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, as well as to
fibers and
fabrics containing or consisting of dyed fibers, wherein said fibers are
obtained or
obtainable according to any of the processes of the present invention,
particularly with
any of the coloring installations of the present invention.
Denim jeans are regularly made from a cotton warp-faced fabric in which the
weft
passes under two or more warp threads. It can have a 1/2, or 2/1 or 3/1 twill
structure
and is woven diagonally, i.e. the twill weaving produces a diagonal ribbing.
While the
warp thread which generally forms the outer layer is dyed, usually with
indigo, the weft
thread forming the inner side of the fabric is left white. And, with common
indigo
dyeing processes the core of the warp threads remains white while the outer
layer is
colored. This phenomenon is called ring dyeing. Since indigo itself is not
soluble in
water (990 ktg/1 at 25 C) its reduced, water-soluble form, leuko-indigo, is
employed in
the dyeing step. However, even the leuko-form of indigo in most cases has a
rather low
affinity to the fiber materials to be dyed, thereby requiring a number of
repeated
treatment steps. In practical use indigo is reduced under alkaline conditions
with
sodium dithionate to leuko-indigo. Depending on the pH of the aqueous system
leuko-
indigo may occur in the mono-anion form, which is present at about pH ii and
which
has better ring-dyeing properties due to less pronounced penetration
characteristics, or
in the di-anion form. Oxidation by air converts the yellow-colored leuko-
indigo back to
the blue-colored indigo.
During regular use abrasion yields a fading of the threads having been ring-
dyed with
indigo thereby providing the well-known "used" effect of denim jeans fabrics.
Abrasion
or fading can be achieved by low washing fastness, an average light fastness,
and a low
dry- and/or wet rubbing fastness.
While on the one hand an excess of hydrosulphite should be present in the
dyeing bath
as sodium dithionite is sensitive to atmospheric oxygen it has also been
observed that
such excess of hydrosulphite may result in irregular dyeing. Usually, the
indigo
concentration in such dyeing vats is not above 80 g/1.
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In order to improve the dyeing properties the fibers usually have to be
subjected to
pretreatment steps such as pre-wetting, bottom dyeing or washing.
While indigo-dyed denim fabrics are regularly made from cotton fibers there
have also
been attempts to manufacture blue colored denim-like fabrics from synthetic
fibers.
Colored synthetic fibers can be obtained by the so-called dope dyeing process.
With the
dope dyeing process a dye, most often in the form of a colored masterbatch, is
mixed
with the molten polymer forming the synthetic fiber before the fibers are
extruded
through spinnerets for making synthetic filaments. Dope dyeing provides
synthetic
fibers which are homogeneously colored throughout the cross-section of the
filament.
Hence, with dope dyed synthetic fibers any fading characteristics being
specific for
indigo-dyed denim fabrics cannot be obtained.
Since dope dyeing cannot be used to obtain synthetic fibers, yarns or fabrics
with fading
characteristics being specific for indigo dyed denim fabrics, it has been
tried to use
conventional installations for dyeing cotton fibers, yarns, or fabrics to
color said fibers,
yarns, or fabrics. Such a conventional installation is schematically shown in
figure 1.
Therein fibers, yarns, or fabrics are conveyed through several stations by
rotating
drums starting with an accumulator station 1, followed in series by a calender
3, a
washing station 5, a ventilation station 7, three washing stations 5, a
cascade of eight
dyeing stations 19 each followed by a ventilation station 7, a washing station
5, a
ventilation station 7, a washing station 5, a warm air ventilation station
117, three
washing stations 5, a drying station 11, and a sizing station 13.
It has been found, that using such conventional installations for dyeing
synthetic fibers,
yarns, or fabrics with indigo leads on one hand to a low amount of dye being
picked up
by the fibers, yarns, or fabrics in the dyeing stations 19 and on the other
hand to most
of the picked up dye being washed off in the washing stations 5, such that the
fading of
the color is much higher than being specific for indigo dyed denim fabrics.
Further to
that conventional installations as shown in figure 1 require a large
production area
which raises manufacturing costs. In addition to that the high amount and
diversity of
stations increases the complexity of the installation leading to high
manufacturing
costs.
There has been a need for an installation that can be used for the preparation
of colored
polyester fibers which would allow to be used for the manufacture of denim-
like fabrics
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According to US 2,774,647 polyester fibers can be colored by subjecting said
fibers to a
dye-bath containing leuko-indigo, a reducing agent and sodium tripolyphosphate
as a
buffer and having a pH between 6.5 and 7.5 at a temperature in the range of
ioo C to
about 144 C and oxidizing the thus treated fibers with an aqueous solution
comprising
hydrogen peroxide.
According to US 4,369,213 prior art processes for dyeing polyester fibers with
indigo
failed in providing the fading characteristics and were thus not able to
adequately
simulate indigo-dyed cotton fibers. This, however, shall be accomplished based
on the
teaching of US 4,369,213 by applying to a polyester fiber a coating comprising
polyvinyl
alcohol and a water-soluble polyamide containing secondary amino groups in the
polymer chain which have been reacted with epichlorohydrine and curing said
coating.
A fabric obtained from said coated polyester fibers was then treated with an
aqueous
alkaline leuko-indigo solution and subsequently subjected to an oxidation step
by
having it exposed to a stream of air. This multistep process requires the use
of two
different types of polymers which renders it cumbersome per se and also
impractical
for any recycling efforts.
There has been a need for a reliable method for the preparation of colored
polyester
fibers which would allow to be used for the manufacture of denim-like fabrics.
Therefore, it has been an object of the present invention to provide a method
and an
installation for the preparation of colored polyester fibers which is not
hampered by the
drawbacks of existing methods and which in particular provides colored/dyed
polyester
fibers having the fading characteristics which are typical for indigo-dyed
denim fabrics.
According to a first aspect of the present invention a process for dyeing, in
particular
vat dyeing, or coating synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide
fibers, or yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or fabrics
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers,
said process comprising the steps of:
a) providing a multitude of fibers comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or providing at least one
yarn, in particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of
synthetic
fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
providing at least one fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or of at least one yarn,
in
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particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers; and
bi) providing at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor dye, in
particular
powdered leuko dye, or
providing at least one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation,
ci) providing an aqueous system comprising at least one lipase enzyme, in
particular lipase from Candida sp., and
di) pre treating said multitude of fibers or said yarn or said multitude of
yarns or
said fabric with the aqueous system comprising the at least one lipase enzyme,
in particular lipase from Candida sp., and
el) coating or dyeing said pretreated multitude of fibers or said
pretreated yarn or
multitude of yarns or said pretreated fabric with said at least one powdered
dye
or with said powdered precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, or with
said at least one aqueous dye formulation or with said at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation.
It has also been found to be advantageous to conduct dyeing of said pretreated
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric with said aqueous dye formulation or with
said at
least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular with the alkaline
aqueous
leuko dye formulation, is conducted according to the pad-batch method.
According to another embodiment it has been found to be advantageous to
conduct in
step di) the pretreatment with the at least one lipase enzyme, in particular
lipase from
Candida sp., according to the pad-batch method, in particular at a temperature
in the
range from 25 to 6o C, more in particular in the range from 30 to 50 C, and
also in
particular at a pH in the range from 4.5 to 9, and more particular in the
range from 5 to
8.
In the meaning of present specification the term "leuko-indigo" shall be
considered to
be synonymous to the reduced form of indigo.
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According to a second aspect of the present invention a process for dyeing, in
particular
vat dyeing, or coating synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide
fibers, or yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or fabrics
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers,
said process comprising the steps of:
a) providing a multitude of fibers comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
providing at least one yarn, in particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide
fibers, or
providing at least one fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or of at least one yarn,
in
particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers; and
b2) providing at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor dye, in
particular
powdered leuko dye, or
providing at least one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation,
c2) providing an aqueous system comprising nano-sized polyurethane
particles, at
least one cross-linking agent and at least one wetting agent and
d2) pretreating said multitude of fibers or said yarn or said multitude of
yarns or
said fabric, in particular said fabric, with said aqueous system comprising
said
nano-sized polyurethane particles, at least one cross-linking agent and at
least
one wetting agent and
e2) coating or dyeing said pretreated multitude of fibers or said
pretreated yarn or
multitude of yarns or said pretreated fabric with said at least one powdered
dye
or with said powdered precursor dye, in particular with said powdered leuko
dye, or with said at least one aqueous dye formulation or with said at least
one
aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko
dye
formulation;
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The aqueous system comprising nano-sized polyurethane particles in a rather
pragmatic embodiment is a nano-dispersion of self-cross-linking amphoteric or
anionic
polyether polyurethanes. These nano-sized polyurethane particles preferably
have an
average particle size of less than 100 nm.
According to a third aspect of the present invention a process for dyeing, in
particular
vat dyeing, or coating synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide
fibers, or yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or fabrics
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers,
said process comprising the steps of:
a) providing a multitude of fibers comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
providing at least one yarn, in particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or
polyamide
fibers, or
providing at least one fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or of at least one yarn,
in
particular a multitude of yarns, comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers; and
b3) providing at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor dye, in
particular
powdered leuko dye, or
providing at least one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation,
c3) providing an aqueous system comprising at least one base, in particular
an
alkali hydroxide, more in particular potassium hydroxide, and optionally at
least
one wetting agent, and
d3) pre treating said multitude of fibers or said yarn or said multitude of
yarns or
said fabric, in particular said multitude of fibers, yarn or multitude of
yarns,
with said aqueous system comprising the at least one base and optionally the
at
least one wetting agent, and
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e3) coating or dyeing said pretreated multitude of fibers or said
pretreated yarn or
multitude of yarns or said pretreated fabric with said at least one powdered
dye
or with said powdered precursor dye, in particular said powdered leuko dye, or
with said at least one aqueous dye formulation or with said at least one
aqueous
precursor dye formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation.
According to a rather practical embodiment to conduct the pretreatment of the
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric with said aqueous dye formulation or with
said at
least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular with the alkaline
aqueous
leuko dye formulation, according to d3) according to the pad-batch method
It has been found to be advantageous in some cases that in pretreatment step
d3) the
aqueous system has a pH in the range from 10 to 13, in particular in the range
from 10,5
to 12,0, and/or a temperature in the range from 20 to 70 C, in particular from
30 to
6o C, more preferably, the pretreatment step d3) is conducted in such a manner
that
surface material of said pretreated synthetic fibers is at least partially
peeled off
whereby said synthetic fibers exhibit a weight reduction, in particular in the
range from
5% to 35%, more in particular in the range from 10 to 30%.
According to another preferred embodiment the pretreatment step d3) further
comprises subjecting the multitude of fibers to steam, in particular to
saturated steam,
for a period of time, in particular for 15 to 100 seconds, preferably for 30
to 60 seconds.
Satisfactory results can also be obtained in that the multitude of fibers in
the
pretreatment di), d2) or d3) is subjected to the aqueous system for no more
than 30
seconds, in particular for no more than 15 seconds.
It is also been found to be rather pragmatic to conduct the dyeing of said
pretreated
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric with said aqueous dye formulation
or with said
at least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular with the
alkaline aqueous
leuko dye formulation, according to the pad-batch method.
Dyes suitable for use with the process of the present invention comprise, in
particular
are consisting of, vat dyes, in particular selected from the group consisting
of indigo,
indigoid dyes, in particular isoindigo, indirubin and/or 6,6'-dibromoindigo,
e.g. Tyrian
purple, indanthren dyes, anthrachinon dyes, anthraquinone dyes, naphthalene
dyes
and mixtures thereof. Moreover, suitable precursor dyes comprise of consist of
leuko
dyes, in particular selected from the group consisting of leuko-indigo, leuko-
indigoid
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dyes, in particular leuko-isoindigo, leuko-indirubin and/or leuko-6,6'-
dibromoindigo,
e.g. leuko-Tyrian purple, leuko-indanthren dyes, leuko-anthrachinon dyes,
leuko-
anthraquinone dyes, leuko-naphthalene dyes and mixtures thereof.
Leuko dyes for the process of the present invention can be obtained from a
corresponding vat dye by treatment in an aqueous alkaline system with a
reducing
agent, in particular selected from the group consisting of thiourea dioxide,
sodium
dithionite, sodium hydrogen sulphite, hydroxyacetone, sodium
hydroxymethylsulfinate, borohydride and mixtures thereof. Hence, the leuko
dye, in
particular the leuko indigo dye formulation containing aqueous formulation can
for
example be obtained in an alkaline aqueous system containing a reducing agent
such as
hydrosulfite and indigo.
In a very advantageous embodiment the aqueous alkaline system containing the
leuko
dye is the least one aqueous precursor dye formulation.
According to another embodiment step In), b2) or b3) comprises providing at
least one,
in particular non-encapsulated, powdered leuko dye, in particular powdered
leuko-
indigo dye, or at least one, in particular non-encapsulated, aqueous leuko dye
formulation, in particular alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation, and
also at
least one migration inhibitor, at least one dispersing agent, at least one
wetting agent
and at least one cationic polymer, in particular based on polyamide-
epichlorohydrin
resin, and wherein said multitude of fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or
fabric is dyed
with said powdered leuko dye or said aqueous leuko dye formulation according
to bi),
b2) or b3).
According to a further embodiment the step bi), b2) or b3) comprises providing
at least
one powdered leuko dye, in particular powdered leuko-indigo dye, or at least
one
aqueous leuko dye formulation, in particular alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye
formulation, and also at least one migration inhibitor, at least one
dispersing agent, at
least one wetting agent and at least one cationic polymer, in particular based
on
polyamide-epichlorohydrin resin, and and wherein said multitude of fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns or fabric is coated with said powdered leuko dye or said
aqueous
leuko dye formulation according to bi), b2) or b3).
Satisfactory results are in particular obtained for those embodiments in which
after the
pretreatment step di), d2) or d3) the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the
fabric are
kept at room temperature for about 14 to 36 hours, in particular for about 18
to about
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24 hours, and subsequently washed. Washing can for example take place in a
multi-vat-
in particular in an 8 vat-, washing machine, using a temperature in the range
from 30
to 95 C, in particular in the range from 40 to 90 C.
The pretreatment step di), d2) or d3) is preferably carried out while said
multitude of
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the fabric are wrapped on a roll.
The aqueous dye formulation or the at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, in
particular the alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation, used for coating in
step el), e2)
or e3) preferably has a viscosity in the range from 10 to 70 Dpa.s, in
particular in the
range from 30 to 6o Dpa.s, determined at 23 5 C, preferably at 23 2.5 C,
more
preferably at 23 1.5 C, most preferably at 23 0.5 C.
According to a suitable embodiment in step el), e2) or e3) the dye used for
dyeing or
coating is a powdered leuko dye or an alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation,
in
particular an alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation.
In rather practical embodiments of the processes of the present invention the
coated or
dyed multitude of fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric of step ei), e2)
or e3), resp.,
are treated with at least one oxidizing agent, in particular selected from the
group
consisting of oxygen, air, in particular heated air, inorganic peroxo
compounds,
hydrogen peroxide, potassium dichromate, sodium hypochlorite, peracetic acid
and
mixtures thereof. In this manner leuko dyes such as leuko indigo are
effectively
transformed into their respective oxidized forms.
In a more preferred embodiment the processes of present invention further
comprise
after the coating or dyeing step a step of subjecting the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns
or the fabric to water steam. The water steam usually can have a temperature
in the
range from 95 to no C, and in particular in the range from 98 to 102 C.
Subjecting to
water steam, in particular having the aforementioned temperature, preferably
takes
from about 1 to about to minutes, and preferably from about 2 to about 4
minutes.
The aforementioned step of subjecting the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or
the fabric
to an oxidizing agent, e.g. a water steam can according to favourable
embodiment to be
followed by a washing step, in particular in a multi-vat-, more particular in
an 8 vat-,
washing machine using a temperature in the range from 25 to 98 C, in
particular in the
range from 30 to 95 C.
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It is also possible to alternatively or additionally subject the fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns or the fabric after dyeing to at least one washing step.
The washed fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the washed fabric can according
to a
rather suitable embodiment be subjected to a drying step. Such drying step is
preferably carried out at a temperature in the range from 98 to 130 C, in
particular in
the range from 100 to 120 C, over a time period, in particular in the range
from 30
seconds to to minutes, more in particular in the range from 1 to 3 minutes.
Particularly good and reliable results can also be obtained with the processes
of the
present invention in which after dyeing (first dyeing step), and optionally
after the at
least one washing step, the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric are
treated with at
least one aqueous electrolyte solution containing at least one cationic
electrolyte, in
particular at least one cationic polyelectrolyte. As a rather suitable
cationic electrolyte
poly(diallyldimethyl ammonium chloride) is used. Said treatment with the at
least one
aqueous electrolyte solution containing at least one cationic electrolyte can
in rather
suitable embodiments be conducted at a pressure in the range from 60 to 120
bar,
particular in the range from 70 to too bar. And, treating the fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns or fabric with the aqueous electrolyte solution can in most cases be
followed by at
least one washing step. Particularly satisfactory results are obtained by
subjecting the
thus treated and optionally washed fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric
to another
dyeing step (second dyeing step) with said at least one aqueous dye
formulation. Again,
it has been found to be advantageous to conduct the dyeing step by use of the
pad-batch
method, which is optionally followed by at least one washing step. It has been
found to
be advantageous that the dye in the first dyeing step and/or in the second
dyeing step is
a powdered leuko dye, in particular powdered leuko-indigo dye, or an aqueous
leuko
dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko-indigo dye
formulation.
According to another rather suitable embodiment the dye in the first dyeing
step
and/or in the second dyeing step is a reactive dye or a powdered leuko-indigo
dye or an
aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation.
Accordingly it has been found to be most suitable that after the dyeing step
ei), e2) or
e3) (first dyeing step), and optionally after the at least one washing step,
the fibers, the
yarn, the multitude of yarns or the fabric are treated with at least one
aqueous
electrolyte solution containing at least one cationic electrolyte, in
particular at least one
cationic polyelectrolyte, and optionally subsequently subjected to at least
one washing
step, and are subsequently subjected to another dyeing step (second dyeing
step) with
at least one powdered dye or with at least one powdered precursor dye, in
particular
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with a powdered leuko dye, or with at least one aqueous dye formulation or
with at
least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous
leuko
dye formulation, in particular according to the pad-batch method, which is
optionally
followed by at least one washing step.
The processes of the present invention preferably further comprise after the
dyeing or
coating step at least one drying step, in particular comprising subjecting the
dyed or
coated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric to a temperature in the
range from 100
to 175 C, in particular in the range from 120 and 16o C, over a period of
time, in
particular in the range from 5 seconds to 5 minutes.
It is also rather advantageous in terms of repeatable and reliable results to
additionally
or alternatively subject the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric after
the dyeing or
coating step, in particular after the coating step, to at least one fixation
step. Said
fixation step preferably comprises subjecting the dyed or coated and
optionally dried
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric to a temperature in the range from
16o to
220 C, more in particular in the range from 170 to 200 C, for a period of
time, in
particular in the range from 30 seconds to 5 minutes, more in particular the
range from
1 to 3 minutes. Regularly heated gas, and more preferably heated air can be
used for the
fixation step.
In the processes of the present invention the at least one aqueous dye
formulation, in
particular the aqueous indigo dye formulation, used for coating, in particular
following
step d2), said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabric, in particular said
fabric,
comprises at least one dye, in particular the vat dye, in particular said
(unreduced)
indigo dye, or the precursor dye, in particular said leuko-indigo dye, and
more in
particular the vat dye, in particular said (unreduced) indigo dye, at least
one binder, in
particular a cross-linkable acrylic binder, at least one thickener and
optionally at least
one softening agent, in particular a nano-silicone-based softening agent.
Usually, the coating step in the processes of the present invention is
conducted by way
of knife coating or by way of rotary printing. Knife coating, however, is
particularly
preferred.
And, according to another embodiment in the processes of the present invention
the
aqueous dye formulation, in particular the aqueous dye formulation used for
dyeing,
comprises at least one organic coloring substance as a dye, preferably a non-
ionic dye,
more preferable an (unreduced) indigo dye, and optionally at least one
dispersing
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agent. Said dispersing agent can suitably be selected from the group
consisting of alkyl
sulphates, alkylaryl sulphonates, fatty alcohols, condensation products of
amines and
ethylene oxide, condensation products of naphthalene sulphonic acid and
formaldehyde, lignin sulphonate and mixtures thereof.
Surprisingly, reliable and a satisfactory result are accomplished with those
processes of
the present invention in which
the at least one aqueous dye formulation, in particular the aqueous leuko dye
formulation and more in particular the aqueous leuko-indigo dye formulation,
has a pH
in the range from 10 to 13, in particular in the range from 10,5 to 12,5.
. Moreover, beneficial results can also be obtained by use of aqueous dye
formulations,
in particular aqueous leuko dye formulations and more in particular the
aqueous leuko-
indigo dye formulation, which exhibit a density at 25 C in the range from o,6
to 1,5
g/ml, in particular in the range from 0,8 - 1,2 g/ml.
The aqueous dye formulations, in particular the aqueous leuko-indigo dye
formulations, which are used for dyeing with the processes of the present
invention
preferably comprise at least one dye, in particular leuko-indigo dye, at least
one
silicone, in particular nano-silicone, at least one binder, in particular a
crosslinkable
acrylic binder, at least one thickener, at least one defoamer, at least one
amine, in
particular ammonia, and water.
According to an alternative embodiment the at least one aqueous dye
formulation, in
particular the aqueous (unreduced) indigo dye formulation, to be used for
dyeing
comprises at least one dye, in particular (unreduced) indigo dye, at least one
silicone, in
particular nano-silicone, at least one binder, in particular a crosslinkable
acrylic binder,
at least one thickener, at least one defoamer, at least one amine, in
particular ammonia,
and water.
Alternatively, the aqueous dye formulation can comprise the indigo dye, at
least one
base, at least one wetting agent and optionally at least one carrier agent.
The wetting
agent to the extent used with the processes according to the invention
advantageously
comprises at least one anionic phosphoric acid ester.
According to another embodiment warp or rope coating or warp or rope dyeing is
used
for coating or dyeing, resp., of the pretreated multitude of fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns or the pretreated fabric with the at least one powdered dye, in
particular the
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powdered vat dye, and more in particular said (unreduced) indigo dye, or the
precursor
dye, in particular said leuko-indigo dye, and more in particular the vat dye,
in
particular said (unreduced) indigo dye, or with the at least one aqueous dye
formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation.
In particular in order to reduce or eliminate the shrinking properties of the
dyed or
coated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or fabrics the processes of the
present invention
can further comprise a sanforizing step of the at least one dyed fibers, yarn,
multitude
of yarns or fabric, in particular of the dyed fabric, after the fixation step.
In some further embodiments it has been found to be pragmatic that the fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns and/or the fabrics are subjected to a cationization step
after the pre-
treatment step and prior to the coating or dyeing step, in particular prior to
the fixation
step.
For fixation in the fixation step the coated or dyed fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns or
fabric, in particular the dyed fibers or fabric, are preferably treated with
at least one
aqueous formulation containing at least one condensation product of an
aliphatic
polyamine and epihalohydrine, in particular epichlorohydrine. This is in a
preferred
embodiment carried out simultaneously with heated water steam treatment. Said
aqueous formulation containing the at least one condensation product
preferably has a
pH value in the range from 3 to 6, particular in the range from 3,5 to 5.
Simultaneously
or alternatively the temperature of said aqueous formulation can be in the
range from
40 to 95 C, and in particular in the range from 55 to 85 C. And, suitable
condensation
products of the aliphatic polyamine and epihalohydrine can comprise a cationic
reaction product of a homopolymer of diallylamine, a homopolymer of N-methyl-
diallylamine or a copolymer of diallylamine and N-methyl-diallylamine with
epihalohydrine, in particular with epichlorohydrine.
Preferred polyester fibers used with the processes of the present invention,
either for
the multitude synthetic fibers, the yarn or multitude of yarns made from or
comprising
synthetic fibers or the fabric made from or comprising said synthetic fibers,
said yarn
or said multitude of yarns include polyethylenterephthalate fibers. It is also
possible to
employ and step a) or A) a mixture of synthetic fibers, in particular
polyester fibers
and/or polyamide fibers, and cotton fibers and/or at least one yarn, multitude
of yarns
or at least one fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, in
particular polyester
fibers and/or polyamide fibers, and cotton fibers.
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In an advantageous embodiment the multitude of fibers comprising or consisting
of
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, e.g.
multi- or
bicomponent fibers, or said fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, in
particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, e.g. multi- or
bicomponent fibers,
pretreated according to step d3) exhibit after said pretreatment step a
tensile strength
which is less than the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the
pretreatment step, in
particular not more than 20 % less the tensile strength of said fibers prior
to the
pretreatment step and more in particular not more than 10 % less the tensile
strength
of said fibers prior to the pretreatment step, measured in each case at 23 5
C,
preferably at 23 2.5 C, more preferably at 23 1.5 C, most preferably at
23 0.5 C.
In a preferred embodiment the synthetic fiber of the multitude of fibers or of
the yarn
or of the multitude of yarns or of the fabric is a multicomponent fiber, in
particular a
bicomponent fiber. The multicomponent fiber, in particular the bicomponent
fiber can
be selected from the group consisting of a solid or hollow side-by-side fiber,
a sheath-
core fiber, an islands-in-the-sea fiber (matrix-fibril) and a segmented-pie-
structure
fiber.
Preferably, the multicomponent, in particular the bicomponent fibers are made
of
poly(ethylene)terephthalate and polyethylene naphthalate, nylon-6,6 and
polycyclohexylenedimethylene terephthalate (PCT), polypropylene and
poly(butylene)terephthalate, nylon-6 and copolyamides, polylactic acid and
polystyrene, polyacetal, in particular polyoxymethylene, and polyurethane,
copolyesters
and HD-polyethylene or copolyesters and LLD-polyethylene, polyolefins, in
particular
polypropylene, and polyamides.
The core-sheath bicomponent fibers preferably are made of a polyester core, in
particular a poly(ethylene)terephthalate core, and a copolyester sheath, or of
a
polyester core, in particular a poly(ethylene)terephthalate core, and a
polyethylene
sheath or of a polypropylene core and a polyethylene sheath or of a polyamide
core, in
particular nylon-6,6, and a polyolefin sheath, in particular a polypropylene
sheath.
And, the islands-in-the-sea bicomponent fibers are preferably comprising a
polyolefins
matrix, in particular polypropylene matrix, and polyamide, in particular
polyamide
fibrils, embedded in the matrix.
The yarn made of or comprising synthetic fibers suitably is a textured and/or
an
oriented yarn selected from the group consisting of a Low Oriented Yarn (LOY),
Medium Oriented Yarn (MOY), Partially Oriented Yarn (POY), High Oriented Yarn
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(HOY) and Fully Oriented Yarn (FOY). A yarn can usually be considered to
represent a
long continuous length of interlocked fibers. Yarns are thus typically made
from a
multitude of fibers, e.g. from synthetic fibers or from a mixture of natural
and/or
synthetic fibers. A yarn can be a so-called spun yarn or a filament yarn.
Among the above yarns those yarn or those multitude of yarns are preferred
which
represent or comprise yarns which are textured and partially oriented yarns.
Textured
yarns can for example be produced by the so-called false-twist coiling method,
the
stuffer-box crimping method, the air-jet texturing method, the knit-de-knit
crinkling
method and the gear crimping method.
The particle size of the powdered dye, in particular the particle size of the
powdered
indigo dye, as provided in step bi), b2), b3) or B) preferably is below 10 um,
and in
particular in the range from 1 to 5 rim.
The multitude of fibers comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, in
particular
polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns or the
fabric
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or
polyamide fibers, pretreated according to step d3) exhibit after said
pretreatment step a
tensile strength which is less than the tensile strength of said fibers prior
to the
pretreatment step, in particular not more than 20 % less the tensile strength
of said
fibers prior to the pretreatment step and more in particular not more than 10
% less the
tensile strength of said fibers prior to the pretreatment step, measured in
each at 23
C, preferably at 23 2.5 C, more preferably at 23 1.5 C, most preferably
at 23
0.5 C.
In preferred embodiments of the process of the present invention it is
provided that
- a fabric prepared from synthetic fibers or from a yarn or a multitude of
yarns
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers is subjected to pretreatment step
di), d2) or
d3), in particular d2), and pretreated fabric is coated according to step et),
e2) or e3),
respectively; or that
- synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising or
consisting of synthetic
fibers are subjected to pretreatment step di), d2) or d3), in particular d2),
said fibers,
yarn or yarns are formed into a fabric, and said fabric is coated or dyed, in
particular
coated, according to step el), e2) or e3), respectively; or that
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- synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic
fibers are subjected to pretreatment step di), d2) or d3), in particular d2),
said fibers,
yarn or yarns are dyed according to step ei), e2) or e3), resp.; or that
- synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic
fibers are subjected to pretreatment step di), d2) or d3), in particular d2),
said fibers,
yarn or yarns are dyed according to step el), e2) or e3), resp., said fibers,
yarn or yarns
are formed into a fabric, and said fabric is coated or dyed, in particular
coated,
according to step ei), e2) or e3), respectively; or that
- synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic
fibers are subjected to pretreatment step di), d2) or d3), in particular d2),
said fibers,
yarn or yarns are formed into a fabric, said fabric is subjected to
pretreatment step di),
d2) or d3), in particular d2), and in the following said fabric is coated or
dyed, in
particular coated, according to step el), e2) or e3), respectively; or that
- synthetic fibers or a yarn or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting
of synthetic
fibers are subjected to pretreatment step di), d2) or d3), in particular d2),
said fibers,
yarn or yarns are dyed according to step el), e2) or e3), resp., and are in
the following
formed into a fabric, said fabric is subjected to pretreatment step oh), d2)
or d3), in
particular d2), and in the following said fabric is coated or dyed, in
particular coated,
according to step el), e2) or e3), respectively.
It is been found with the present invention that the pretreatment processes
including
lipase enzymes (ci)/di)), nano-sized polyurethane particles (c2)/d2)), and
base
treatment (c3)/d3)) can be successfully combined with electrostatic dyeing
methods
using electrolytic solutions, with fabric coating methods, with warp coating
and warp
dyeing processes to furnish dyed synthetic fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns
and fabrics,
in particular indigo dyed polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers and
fabrics.
The problem underlying the present invention has also been solved by dyed
synthetic
fibers, in particular dyed polyester fibers and/or dyed polyamide fibers, or
dyed yarn,
or dyed multitude of yarns or dyed fabric obtained or obtainable according to
one of the
processes according to the present invention as described above.
The problem underlying the present invention has also been solved by coated
synthetic
fibers, in particular coated polyester fibers and/or coated polyamide fibers,
or coated
yarn, or coated multitude of yarns or coated fabric obtained or obtainable
according to
one of the processes according to the present invention as described above.
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The polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers are selected from the group
consisting of
polyethylenparticule terephthalate (PET) fibers and poly-1,4-cyclohexylene-
dimethylene terephthalate (PCDT) fibers.
The fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns and fabrics obtained according to the
processes of
the present invention exhibit excellent crocking properties as well as a
sufficient tensile
strength and tear resistance.
According to a fourth aspect of the present invention an installation for
dyeing or
coating, in particular for indigo-dyeing or indigo-coating, synthetic fibers,
in particular
polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting
of
synthetic fibers, or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, or
a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising
or consisting
of synthetic fibers, is provided, said installation comprising:
x) a coloring station, in particular a coating station or a dyeing station,
wherein a
dye formulation comprising at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor
dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, and/or at least one aqueous dye
formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular
an
alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation, is applied to said fibers, yarn,
multitude
of yarns, or fabric being conveyed through said coloring station, and
w) a drying station, wherein before, in particular directly before, said
fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric enter the coloring station, said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed through said drying station such
that said powdered dye or aqueous dye formulation is applied to dried fibers,
a
dried yarn, a dried multitude of yarns, or a dried fabric within the coloring
station.
After leaving the drying station, said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric
preferably have/has a moisture content less than 1 wt.-%, preferably less than
0,5 wt.-
%, more preferably less than 0,25 wt.-% of the fiber's, yarn's, multitude of
yarn's, or
fabric's dry mass. The amount of dye formulation being picked up in the
subsequent
coloring station is preferably at least 8o %, more preferably at least 70 %,
most
preferably at least 6o % and/or preferably maximally 90 %, more preferably
maximally
80 %, most preferably maximally 70 % of the fiber's, yarn's, multitude of
yarn's, or
fabric's dry mass.
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In some embodiments said drying station comprises at least one, preferably at
least
two, or four, or six heated drum/s and/or preferably maximally fourteen, more
preferably maximally twelve, or ten, or eight heated drums, the drums
preferably
conductively heat said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric being
conveyed over
said drum/s by a surface temperature, said surface temperature preferably
being at
least too C, more preferably at least 120 C, most preferably at least 130 C
and/or
preferably maximally 140 C, more preferably maximally 130 C. It has been found
advantageous to bring said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric in
contact with the
heated surface of said drum/s for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20 seconds,
or at least
40 seconds, or at least 6o seconds, or at least 8o seconds, or at least 100
seconds
and/or preferably maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 18o seconds, or
maximally
16o seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most
preferably for
about 120 seconds.
While being conveyed over said heated drums, said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric is/are preferably in contact in circumferential direction with at least
150 degree,
more preferably with at least 18o degree, most preferably with at least 210
degree
and/or preferably with maximally 330 degree, more preferably with at least 300
degree, most preferably with at least 270 or 240 degree of the heated surface.
In a preferred embodiment said drying station comprises at least one stenter,
wherein
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are convection heated by
air,
preferably by air having a temperature of at least 120 C, more preferably of
at least 140
C, and/or preferably maximally 18o C, more preferably maximally 16o C, most
preferably maximally 145 C, or about 140 C. Preferably said fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20
seconds, or at least
40 seconds, or at least 6o seconds, or at least 8o seconds, or at least 100
seconds
and/or preferably maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 18o seconds, or
maximally
16o seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most
preferably for
about 120 seconds through said stenter.
It has been found advantageous to complement an installation of the present
invention
by a ventilation station through which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric
is/are conveyed before entering the drying station. Within such ventilation
station said
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are dried by air, said air
preferably has a
temperature of at least 20 C and/or of maximally 40 C, more preferably of
about 25
C. In a preferred embodiment said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are
preferably conveyed for at least 300 seconds, more preferably for at least 600
seconds
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and/or preferably for maximally 1200 seconds, more preferably for maximally
goo
seconds through said ventilation station. In a preferred embodiment, the
fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed over at least 6, or at least 8,
or at least 10
and/or over maximally 16, or maximally 14, or maximally 12, most preferably
over 9
rotating drums within the ventilation station. These drums are preferably
arranged in
two lines, being substantially parallel to each other, wherein said lines of
rotating
drums preferably have a distance of at least 5 meter and/or maximally 15
meter,
preferably of about 10 meter.
In a rather preferred embodiment the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
conveyed over four, six, eight, or ten rotating drums while being conveyed
from the
ventilation station to the drying station, wherein the fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or
fabric preferably travel/travels a distance of at least 30 meter and maximally
50 meter
from the ventilation station to the drying station.
It has been found advantageous to supplemented the installation of the present
invention by a pretreating station for pretreating synthetic fibers, in
particular
polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic
fibers, or a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, with one of the aqueous solutions ci), c2), or
c3),
preferably by one of the pretreating steps di), d2) or d3), before the fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in series through said drying
station and
said coloring station, more preferably before the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed in series through a ventilation station, said drying
station, and
said coloring station.
Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement the installation
for dyeing or
coating a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers by a second installation as described in view
of the fourth
aspect of the present invention, wherein the coloring station of the first
installation is a
dyeing station, and wherein the coloring station of the second installation is
a coating
station, wherein the installations are arranged in such a way that the fabric
is conveyed
through said dyeing station before being conveyed through said coating
station.
Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement the installation
for dyeing or
coating synthetic fibers, a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers,
or a
multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers by a second
installation
as described in view of the fourth aspect of the present invention, wherein
the coloring
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station of the first installation is a dyeing station, and wherein the
coloring station of
the second installation is a coating station, wherein the installations are
arranged in
such a way that the fibers, yarn, or multitude of yarns are conveyed through
said
dyeing station before being conveyed through said coating station. It has been
found
advantageous to supplement such an installation for dyeing said fibers, yarn,
or
multitude of yarns by a weaving machine for weaving said fibers, yarn, or
multitude of
yarns into a fabric after leaving the dyeing station and before entering the
coating
station.
According to a fifth aspect of the present invention an installation for
dyeing, in
particular for indigo-dyeing, synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers
and/or
polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a
multitude
of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a fabric comprising
or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, is
provided, said installation comprising:
Xi) one dyeing station, wherein a dye formulation comprising at least one
powdered
dye or a powdered precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, and/or at
least one aqueous dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye
formulation, in particular an alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation, is
applied
to said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric being conveyed through
said
dyeing station, and
Yi) one drying station and/or one warm air ventilation station, wherein
said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric applied with said dye formulation is/are
dried, wherein said dyeing station comprises only one vat filled with said dye
formulation, and wherein drums are arranged such that said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric merge/s once the dye formulation and leave the
dye
formulation for heading to said drying station and/or warm air ventilation
station without again merging the dye formulation.
Preferably, before leaving said dyeing station, said fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed through at least two pressure drums opposing each other
and
building a slit through which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are
conveyed under pressure, said pressure preferably being at least 60 bar, more
preferably at least 80 bar and/or preferably maximally 110 bar, more
preferably
maximally 90 bar. The amount of dye formulation applied to said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric after leaving the dyeing station preferably
being at least 8o
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% and/or being preferably maximally 90 %, more preferably about 90 % of said
fiber's,
yarn's, multitude of yarn's, or fabric's mass before entering said dyeing
station. The
temperature of said dye formulation can be at least 20 C, preferably at least
40 C,
more preferably at least 50 C and/or maximally 90 C, preferably maximally 70
C,
more preferably maximally 6o C.
In a preferred embodiment said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are
conveyed for preferably more than 10 seconds, more preferably for more than 50
seconds and/or preferably for less than 90 seconds, more preferably for less
than 70
seconds through said dyeing station.
Further, in some embodiments an installation of the present invention is
complemented by a warm air ventilation station through which said fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed after leaving said dyeing
station. Within
such a warm air ventilation station said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
convection heated by air, preferably by air having a temperature of at least
6o C, more
preferably of at least So C, most preferably of at least too C, and/or
preferably of
maximally 140 C, more preferably of maximally 120 C, most preferably of
maximally
110 C, or of about 100 C. Preferably said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric
is/are conveyed for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or at least
40 seconds, or
at least 6o seconds, or at least So seconds, or at least 100 seconds and/or
maximally for
200 seconds, or maximally 180 seconds, or maximally 160 seconds, or maximally
140
seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most preferably for about 120 seconds
through said
warm air ventilation station.
It has also been found advantageous to complement an installation of the
present
invention with a drying station through which said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed after leaving said dyeing station, more preferably
after leaving
said dyeing station and after leaving a subsequent warm air ventilation
station.
Said drying station may comprise at least one, preferably at least two, or
four, or six
heated drum/s and/or maximally fourteen, more preferably maximally twelve, or
ten,
or eight heated drums, the drums preferably conductively heat said fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric being conveyed over said drum/s by a surface
temperature, said surface temperature preferably being at least 100 C, more
preferably
at least 120 C, most preferably at least 130 C and/or preferably maximally
140 C,
more preferably maximally 130 C. It has been found advantageous to bring said
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric in contact with the heated surface of said
drum/s for
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at least to seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or at least 40 seconds, or at
least 60 seconds,
or at least 8o seconds, or at least 100 seconds and/or preferably maximally
for 200
seconds, or maximally 18o seconds, or maximally 16o seconds, or maximally 140
seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most preferably for about 120 seconds.
While being conveyed over said heated drums, the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric is/are preferably conveyed over at least 150 degree, more preferably
over at least
18o degree, most preferably over at least 210 degree and/or preferably over
maximally
330 degree, more preferably over maximally 300 degree, most preferably over
maximally 270 or 240 degree of the heated drum's circumference.
In a preferred embodiment said drying station comprises at least one stenter,
wherein
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are convection heated by
air,
preferably by air having a temperature of at least 120 DC, more preferably of
at least 140
C, and/or maximally 180 C, preferably maximally 16o C, more preferably
maximally
145 C, or about 140 C. Preferably said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
conveyed for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or at least 40
seconds, or at
least 6o seconds, or at least 8o seconds, or at least too seconds and/or
preferably
maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 18o seconds, or maximally 160 seconds,
or
maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most preferably for about 120
seconds through said stenter.
Further it is preferred to supplement an installation of the present invention
by a
pretreating station for pretreating synthetic fibers, in particular polyester
fibers and/or
polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a
multitude
of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a fabric comprising
or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers
with one of the aqueous solutions ci), c2), or c3), preferably by one of the
pretreating
steps di), d2) or d3), before the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are
conveyed through said dyeing station, preferably before the fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in series through a drying station (11, 211,
311) and said
dyeing station, more preferably before the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric
is/are conveyed in series through a ventilation station, a drying station, and
said
dyeing station.
Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement the installation
for dyeing or
coating a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers by a second installation as described in view
of the fourth
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aspect of the present invention, wherein the coloring station of the second
installation
is a coating station, wherein the installations are arranged in such a way
that the fabric
is conveyed through said dyeing station before being conveyed through said
coating
station.
Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement an installation
for dyeing or
coating synthetic fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, or a
multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers by a second
installation
as described in view of the fourth aspect of the present invention, wherein
the coloring
station of the second installation is a coating station, wherein the
installations are
arranged in such a way that the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns are conveyed
through
said dyeing station before being conveyed through said coating station. It has
been
found advantageous to complement such an installation for dyeing said fibers,
yarn, or
multitude of yarns by a weaving machine for weaving said fibers, yarn, or
multitude of
yarns into a fabric after leaving the dyeing station and before entering the
coating
station.
According to a sixth aspect of the present invention an installation for
coating, in
particular for indigo-coating, synthetic fibers, in particular polyester
fibers and/or
polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a
multitude
of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a fabric comprising
or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, is
provided, said installation comprising:
X2) a coating station, preferably a pre metering device such as a knife
coater,
wherein a dye formulation comprising at least one powdered dye or a powdered
precursor dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, and/or at least one aqueous
dye formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in
particular
an alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation, is applied to said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric, in particular to said fabric, being conveyed
through
said coating station.
In a preferred embodiment said coating station comprises at least one post-
metering
device such as a knife coater, in particular in the arrangement of a floating
knife, or of a
knife over blanket, or of a knife over roll. In a less preferred embodiment
said coating
station comprises at least one, preferably at least three, more preferably at
least six
and/or preferably maximally twelve pre-metering devices such as roll coaters,
in
particular such as mayer rod coaters, or direct roll coaters, or gravure
coaters.
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Said coating station can also comprise a combination of said pre- and post-
metering
devices
It has also been found advantageous to complement an installation of the
present
invention by a drying station through which said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric is/are conveyed after leaving said coating station.
Said drying station may comprise at least one, preferably at least two, or
four, or six
heated drum/s and/or preferably maximally fourteen, more preferably maximally
twelve, or ten, or eight heated drums, the drums preferably conductively heat
said
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric being conveyed over said drum/s by
a surface
temperature, said surface temperature preferably being at least 100 C, more
preferably
at least 120 C, most preferably at least 130 C and/or preferably maximally
140 C,
more preferably maximally 130 C. It has been found advantageous to bring said
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric in contact with the heated surface of said
drum/s for
at least io seconds, or at least 20 seconds, or at least 40 seconds, or at
least 60 seconds,
or at least 8o seconds, or at least 100 seconds and/or preferably maximally
for 200
seconds, or maximally 18o seconds, or maximally 160 seconds, or maximally 140
seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most preferably for about 120 seconds.
Further an installation of the present invention can be complemented by a
softening
station through which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can be
conveyed
after being coated and dried. A foulard can be used as softening station in
which a
softening agent, in particular a nano-silicone-based softening agent, can be
applied to
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric for softening said fibers,
yarn, multitude
of yarns, or fabric.
While being conveyed over said heated drums, the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric is/are preferably conveyed over at least 150 degree, more preferably
over at least
18o degree, most preferably over at least 210 degree and/or preferably over
maximally
330 degree, more preferably over maximally 300 degree, most preferably over
maximally 270 or 240 degree of the heated drum's circumference.
In a preferred embodiment said drying station comprises at least one stenter,
wherein
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are convection heated by
air,
preferably by air having a temperature of at least 120 C, more preferably of
at least 140
C, and/or preferably maximally 18o C, more preferably maximally 16o C, most
preferably maximally 145 C, or about 140 C. Preferably said fibers, yarn,
multitude of
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yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed for at least 10 seconds, or at least 20
seconds, or at least
40 seconds, or at least 6o seconds, or at least 8o seconds, or at least 100
seconds
and/or preferably maximally for 200 seconds, or maximally 180 seconds, or
maximally
160 seconds, or maximally 140 seconds, or maximally 120 seconds, most
preferably for
about 120 seconds through said stenter.
Further, it is preferred to supplement an installation of the present
invention by a
pretreating station for pretreating synthetic fibers, in particular polyester
fibers and/or
polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a
multitude
of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or a fabric comprising
or
consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers
with one of the aqueous solutions ci), c2), or c3), preferably by one of the
pretreating
steps di), d2) or d3), before said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are
conveyed through said coating station, preferably before said fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in series through a drying station and said
coating
station, more preferably before said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
conveyed in sequence through a ventilation station, a drying station, and said
coating
station.
Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement the installation
for dyeing or
coating a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers by a second installation as described in view
of the fourth
or fifth aspect of the present invention, wherein the coloring station of the
second
installation is a dyeing station, wherein the installations are arranged in
such a way that
the fabric is conveyed through said dyeing station before being conveyed
through said
coating station.
Additionally or alternatively, it is preferred to supplement the installation
for dyeing or
coating synthetic fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting of synthetic
fibers, or a
multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers by a second
installation
as described in view of the fourth or fifth aspect of the present invention,
wherein the
coloring station of the second installation is a dyeing station, wherein the
installations
are arranged in such a way that the fibers, yarn, or multitude of yarns are
conveyed
through said dyeing station before being conveyed through said coating
station. It has
been found advantageous to complement such an installation for dyeing fibers,
yarn,
or multitude of yarns by a weaving machine for weaving said fibers, yarn, or
multitude
yarns into a fabric after leaving the dyeing station and before entering the
coating
station.
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According to a seventh aspect of the present invention an installation for
dyeing or
coating, in particular for indigo-dyeing or indigo-coating, synthetic fibers,
in particular
polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or a yarn comprising or consisting
of
synthetic fibers, or a multitude of yarns comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers, or
a fabric comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers or of yarns comprising
or consisting
of synthetic fibers, is provided, said installation comprising:
x) a coloring station, in particular a coating station or a dyeing station,
wherein a
dye formulation comprising at least one powdered dye or a powdered precursor
dye, in particular powdered leuko dye, and/or at least one aqueous dye
formulation or at least one aqueous precursor dye formulation, in particular
an
alkaline aqueous leuko dye formulation, is applied to said fibers, yarn,
multitude
of yarns, or fabric being conveyed through said coloring station, and
Zi) a thermal fixation station, through which said fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns,
or fabric applied with said dye formulation is/are conveyed after leaving the
coloring station, for fixing the applied dye formulation to said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric by heating said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric, and/or
Z2) at least one, preferably 3, chemical fixation station/s, through which
said fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric applied with said dye formulation is/are
conveyed after leaving the coloring station, wherein an aqueous formulation
containing at least one condensation product of an aliphatic polyamine and
epihalohydrine, in particular epichlorohydrine, is applied to said fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric, for fixing the applied dye formulation to said
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric.
In a preferred embodiment said thermal fixation station comprises a stenter,
wherein
said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are convection heated by
air,
preferably by air having a temperature of at least 130 C, more preferably of
at least 150
C, most preferably of at least 170 C and/or preferably maximally 220 C, more
preferably maximally 200 C, most preferably maximally 18o C.
It has been found to be advantageous to convey said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric for preferably at least one minute, more preferably for at least three
minutes,
most preferably for at least five minutes and/or preferably for maximally
fifteen
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minutes, more preferably for maximally ten minutes, most preferably for
maximally
five minutes through said thermal fixation station, in particular through said
stenter.
In a preferred embodiment the aqueous formulation in the at least one chemical
fixation station has a temperature of at least 40 C, preferably of at least
55 C and/or
of maximally 95 C, preferably of maximally 85 C. It has been found
advantageous to
convey said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric preferably for at
least to seconds,
more preferably for at least 30 seconds and/or preferably for maximally 6o
seconds,
more preferably maximally 45 seconds through said chemical fixation station.
Preferably, the amount of said aqueous formulation picked up within the
chemical
fixation is between 2 and 4 %, preferably about 3 % of the fiber's, yarn's,
multitude of
yarn's, or fabric's mass before entering the chemical fixation station.
Complementing a coloring installation, in particular when dyeing polyester
with an
indigo dye formulation as described above, with a fixation station leads to an
increased
dyeing or coating efficiency. With an installations being designed according
to the
seventh aspect of the invention, dye stuff savings of about 20 % were
achieved.
It has been found advantageous to supplement an installation according to the
seventh
aspect of the present invention by a warm air ventilation station or by a
drying station,
preferably in sequence by a warm air ventilation station and a drying station,
through
which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed after
leaving the
coloring station and before entering the fixation station. As warm air
ventilation station
and/or as drying station, the warm air ventilation station and the drying
stations being
described with respect to the fifth and eights aspect of the present invention
can be
used.
In particular in order to reduce or eliminate the shrinking properties of the
dyed or
coated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric an installation of the
present invention
can further comprise a sanforizing station, through which said fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed after leaving the thermal fixation station
and/or after
leaving the chemical fixation station.
Within an installation of the present invention fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric
is/are preferably conveyed with a conveying speed between 5 and 50 m/min,
preferably
between 5 and 15 m/min or between 15 and 30 m/min or between 30 and 50 m/min.
An exemplary pretreating station is a foulard, also known as padding machine,
wherein
at least one of the aqueous solutions ci), c2) or c3) is applied to said
fibers, yarn,
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multitude of yarns, or fabric by one of the pretreating steps di), d2) or d3).
Preferably
before leaving said pretreating station, said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric
is/are conveyed through at least two pressure drums opposing each other and
building
a slit through which the textile is conveyed under pressure, said pressure
preferably
being greater than 6o bar, more preferably greater than 80 bar and/or lower
than no
bar, preferably lower than 90 bar. The temperature of the aqueous solutions
ci), c2) or
c3) is preferably at least 20 C, more preferably at least 30 C and/or
maximally so C,
preferably maximally 40 C. It has been found that the aforementioned
conditions, in
particular the pressure conditions, lead to a preferred amount of aqueous
solution, in
particular ci), c2) or c3), being applied to the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, fabric. A
preferred amount of aqueous solution applied to said fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns,
or fabric after leaving the pretreating station is more than 70 %, more
preferably more
than 80 %, and/or less than 95 %, or less than 90 %, or less than 85%, most
preferably
about 90 % of said fiber's, yarn's, multitude of yarns', or fabric's mass
before entering
the pretreating station.
In some embodiments of the present invention, in particular for pretreating
with ci),
the installation is complemented with a standby station for keeping the
pretreated
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric for a defined time under defined
conditions
after leaving the pretreating station. It has been found advantageous to keep
the
pretreated fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric for at least 14 hours,
more
preferably for at least 18 hours, most preferably for at least 21 hours,
and/or maximally
for 36 hours, more preferably for maximally 27 hours, most preferably for
maximally
24 hours, at room temperature, or at a temperature of at least 20 C,
preferably at least
30 C, and/or at maximally 60 C, preferably maximally 50 C, most preferably
about
40 C. The aforementioned conditions have been found by experiments and cause,
in
particular when pretreated with ci), an increased amount of pretreating
elements, in
particular lipase, being bound to the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric, and/or
increased binding forces between the pretreating elements and the fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric without causing too high manufacturing costs in
view of
process time, storage costs and energy costs.
It has been found advantageous in some embodiments of the present invention,
in
particular when pretreating with c3), to complement the installation with a
steaming
station. The steaming station is preferably located behind the pretreating
station for
subjecting fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric with water steam, in
particular
with saturated steam, after leaving the pretreating station. Preferred
conditions
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regarding temperature of the water steam and the time of subjecting the
fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric with said steam have been discussed before.
In some embodiments of the present invention, in particular for pretreating
with et) or
c3), the installation is complemented with a washing station. The washing
station is
preferably located behind the pretreating station, and/or behind the standby
station,
and/or behind the steaming station for washing the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric after they passed the pretreating station, and/or the standby station
or the
steaming station. The washing station preferably comprises a multi-vat-washing
machine for washing the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric under
different
conditions, such as the washing solution, the temperature of the washing
solution, and
the time for which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conducted with
said washing solution. The multi-vat washing machine preferably comprises
four, or
six, or eight, or ten washing vats. Preferably, each washing vat comprises an
arrangement of rotating drums conveying the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric
such that they merge and leave the washing solution several times, preferably
four
times, or five times, or six times, or seven times, or eight times. Further to
that the
washing vats can comprise pressure drums opposing each other and building a
slit
through which said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
under
pressure before merging and/or after leaving said washing solution. In case
off an
eight-vat washing machine, the preferred temperature off the washing solutions
is
between 30 and 40 C in the first and second washing vat, between 50 and 60 C
in the
third and fourth washing vat, between 90 and 95 C in the fifth and sixth
washing vat,
and/or between 55 and 70 C in the seventh and eight washing vat.
The aqueous dye formulation, in particular the alkaline aqueous leuko dye
formulation
in a coating station, preferably has a viscosity in the range from 10 to 70
Dpa.s, in
particular in the range from 30 to 6o Dpa.s, determined at 23 5 C,
preferably at 23
2.5 C, more preferably at 23 1.5 C, most preferably at 23 0.5 C. This
viscosity
range is preferred since the viscosity is low enough such that the aqueous dye
formulation can easily be applied to fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric, in
particular to fabric, but high enough to keep the dye formulation on said
fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, and/or fabric, and that said fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric pick up enough dye formulation. Within a coating station, the dye
formulation is
preferably applied by at least one knife coater to said fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns,
and/or fabric which is conveyed in warp direction through the coating station.
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In a preferred embodiment of the present invention the installation is
supplemented by
a steaming station that is located behind the coloring station. In the
steaming station
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are subjected to water
steam,
particularly saturated steam. The water steam preferably has a temperature in
the
range from 95 to 110 C, and in particular in the range from 98 to 102 C. The
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably subjected for one to ten
minutes,
more preferably for two to four minutes, with said water steam. In case, the
coloring
installation is supplemented with a steaming station, it is advantageous to
supplement
the installation with a washing station, in particular a multi-vat-washing
machine,
more particular an eight-vat-washing machine through which the fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric can be conveyed after leaving the steaming
machine. The
temperatures of the washing solution used in the single vats of a multi-vat-
washing
machine is preferably in the range from 25 to 98 C, in particular in the range
from 30
to 95 C.
It is also possible to alternatively or additionally supplement the
installation with a
washing machine through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are
conveyed after leaving the coloring station.
According to a rather suitable embodiment of the present invention the
installation can
be supplemented by a drying station, such as an arrangement of heated drums or
a
stenter, through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed
after they left the steaming station and/or the washing station. In such a
drying station
the temperature of the hot air or the surface temperature of the heated drums
is
preferably in the range from 98 to 130 C, in particular in the range from 100
to 120 C.
The fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are preferably conveyed
over a time
period, in particular in the range from 30 seconds to io minutes, more in
particular in
the range from 1 to 3 minutes through said drying station.
The above described installations are particular advantageous for dyeing the
synthetic
fibers, yarns, and fabric, in particular polyester fibers, yarns, and fabric,
as described
above with an indigo or leuko-indigo dye as described above.
The above described installations are designed to conduct the above described
process,
and the above described process is developed to be used in the above described
installations.
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The fibers, yarn, plurality of yarns, and fabric obtained by dyeing or coating
them with
an installation of the present invention and/or with a process of the present
invention,
exhibit excellent crocking properties as well as a sufficient tensile strength
and tear
resistance. Particular good results can be achieved by conducting the process
of the
present invention with an installation of the present invention.
The eighth aspect of the invention present invention relates to dyed and/or
coated
synthetic fibers, in particular polyester fibers and/or polyamide fibers, or
to a yarn
comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers, or to a multitude of yarns
comprising or
consisting of synthetic fibers, or to a fabric comprising or consisting of
synthetic fibers
or of yarns comprising or consisting of synthetic fibers. Said fibers are dyed
or coated
with a dye formulation comprising at least one powdered indigo dye or a
powdered
precursor indigo dye, and/or with at least one aqueous indigo dye formulation
or at
least one aqueous precursor indigo dye formulation, in particular an alkaline
aqueous
leuko-indigo dye formulation. These fibers have a dry rubbing fastness in the
range
from 1,0 to 5,0, preferably in the range from 2,0 to 4,0, most preferably in
the range
from 2,5 to 3,5 and/or a wet rubbing fastness in the range from 0.5 to 3,0,
preferably in
the range from 1,0 to 2,5, more preferably in the range from 1,5 to 2,0. Such
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can for example be obtained by dyeing
and/or
coating said fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric by the above
described
installations and/or by the above described process. The wet rubbing fastness
is
determined by ISO 105-X12:2001(E). The dry rubbing fastness is determined by
ISO
105-X12:2001(E).
Particularly good results regarding the eighth aspect of the present invention
are
achieved when the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, and fabric is/are
pretreated with at
least one lipase enzyme as described above or with an aqueous system
comprising
nano-sized polyurethane particles as described above before being dyed and/or
coated.
With the present invention has been surprisingly found how to arrive to dyed
synthetic
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, and fabric which essentially exhibit the
same fading
characteristics as dyed cotton fibers, yarn, plurality of yarns, and fabric as
used for
conventional denim fabrics. Thus, it is now possible to reliably prepare for
example
colored polyester fibers yarn, plurality of yarns, and fabric and/or polyamide
fibers
yarn, plurality of yarns, and fabric which can be used for the manufacture of
denim-like
fabrics.
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Further properties, features and advantages of the present invention become
apparent
by the following description of preferred embodiments shown in the enclosed
figures.
These figures show in
Fig. 1 a conventional installation used for dyeing cotton fibers, yarn,
multitude
of yarns, or fabric with indigo;
Fig. 2 a schematic view of an installation for dyeing synthetic fibers,
yarn,
plurality of yarns, or fabric illustrating differences to a conventional
installation in the arrangement of drying stations, coloring stations, and
fixation stations;
Fig. 3 an installation for a coating synthetic fabric
Fig. 4 a pretreating station preferably used when pretreating with ci),
c2) or
c3);
Fig. 5 a standby stations, preferably used when pre treating with ci);
Fig. 6 a washing station and a drying station, preferably used when
pretreating
with ci);
Fig. 7 a pretreating station, and a drying station, preferably used when
pretreating with c2);
Fig. 8 a pretreating station, a steaming station, a washing station, and
a drying
station preferably used when pre treating with c3), or when steaming,
washing, and drying after the fibers, yarn, plurality of yarns, or fabric left
the coloring station;
Fig. 9 a coating station, and a drying station, preferably used when
coating;
Fig. 10 a thermal fixation station;
Fig. 11. a dyeing station, preferably used when conducting fibers, yarn,
plurality
of yarns, or fabric with an aqueous electrolyte solution after dyeing;
Fig. 12 a sanforizing station.
A schematic view of an installation for dyeing synthetic fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns,
or fabric is shown in figure 2 illustrating schematically the fourth, fifth,
and seventh
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aspect of the present invention and differences as well as advantages compared
to a
conventional installation as schematically shown in figure 1. In the
installation shown
in figure 2 fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
through several
stations by rotating drums starting with an accumulator station 1, followed in
series by
a calender 3, a pretreating station 15, a ventilation station 7, a drying
station, a dyeing
station 19, a warm air ventilation station 117, a drying station 11, fixation
stations 17, in
particular three chemical fixation stations 417, a drying station 11, and
ending with a
sizing station 13.
A drying station ii being located before, in particular directly before the
dyeing station
19 or the not shown coating station (39) illustrates the fourth aspect of the
present
invention. Contrary to the schematically shown conventional installation in
figure 1, the
upstream drying station 11 causes that dried fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric
enter/s the dyeing station 19. This leads to a higher amount of powdered dye
and/or
aqueous liquid dye formulation being picked up by the fibers, yarn, multitude
of yarns,
or fabric in the dyeing station 19. A higher amount of powdered dye and/or
aqueous
liquid dye formulation being picked up increases the amount of dye that can
theoretically be fixed to the fibers and thereby the achievable colorfulness,
in particular
the chroma and/or saturation, of the colored fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric.
In figure 2 a single dyeing station 19, followed by a warm air ventilation
station 117
illustrates the fifth aspect of the present invention. Compared to a
conventional
installation as shown in figure 1, this leads to a reduced number of stations
and thus to
a reduced complexity of the installation which leads to lower manufacturing
costs.
Further to that, the use of a single dyeing station 19 surprisingly enables,
in particular
in combination with any of the first to the third, and/or of the fourth,
and/or of the
seventh aspect of the present invention, an increased reproducibility and
precision in
adjusting the amount of dye being picked up in the dyeing station 19, and/or
in
adjusting the color fastness, in particular the dry rubbing fastness, and/or
the wet
rubbing fastness, and/or the light fastness. Said advantages have been
achieved when
dyeing fibers, a yarn, a multitude of yarns, or a fabric.
As shown in figure 2, a single dyeing station 19 can be a dyeing vat 29
substantially
filled with an aqueous dye formulation through which the fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed. The fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
conveyed in series over five rotating drums 123 within the aqueous dye
formulation,
through two pressure drums 515 within the aqueous dye formulation, over five
rotating
drums 123 within the aqueous dye formulation, and through two pressure drums
415
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outside of the dyeing vat 29 and outside of the aqueous dye formulation. The
liquid
level in the dyeing vat 29 is exemplary shown by the meandering line 25.
The seventh aspect of the present invention is illustrated by the dash lined
box in figure
2 indicating a fixation station 17. One embodiment of such a fixation station
17 is
illustrated within the dash lined box as a cascade of three chemical fixation
stations
417, through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed after
leaving the dyeing station 19 or the not shown coating station 39. These
chemical
fixation stations comprise vats filled with an aqueous formulation containing
at least
one condensation product of an aliphatic polyamine and epihalohydrine, in
particular
epichlorohydrine, instead of a washing solution. In such a chemical fixation
station, the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed by five rotating
through said
aqueous solution, and through two pressure drums opposing each other and
building a
slit when leaving the chemical fixation stations.
However in another embodiment of the present invention, the fixation station
can be a
thermal fixation station 217, in particular a stenter for which an example is
shown in
Fig.io. Complementing a coloring installation with a fixation station 17
enables, in
particular in combination with any of the first to the third, and/or of the
fourth, and/or
of the fifth or sixth aspect of the present invention, an increased
reproducibility and
precision in adjusting the color fastness, in particular the dry rubbing
fastness, and/or
the wet rubbing fastness, and/or the light fastness.
The sixth and seventh aspect of the present invention is illustrated in figure
3. The sixth
aspect of the present invention relates to the use of a coating station 39
instead of the
use of a cascade of dyeing stations 19 and ventilation stations 7 as shown in
figure 1. In
figure 3, a fabric is winded from a spool 21, conveyed over rotating drums 23
in
sequence through a coating station 39, a drying station 11 in form of a
stenter 311, and
winded again on a spool 21. Compared to a conventional installation as shown
in figure
1, the use of a coating station 39 instead of a cascade of dyeing stations 19
and
ventilation stations leads to a reduced number of stations and thus to a
reduced
complexity of the installation which leads to lower manufacturing costs.
Further to
that, the use of a coating station 39 surprisingly enables, in particular in
combination
with any of the first to the third, and/or of the fourth, and/or of the
seventh aspect of
the present invention, an increased reproducibility and precision in adjusting
the
amount of dye being picked up in the coating station 39, and/or in adjusting
the color
fastness, in particular the dry rubbing fastness, and/or the wet rubbing
fastness, and/or
the light fastness. Said advantages have been achieved when coating a fabric.
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As indicated by the upper arrow in figure 3, the coated and dried fabric is
transported,
in particular winded on a spool 21, to a thermal fixation station 311 (seventh
aspect of
the present invention) where the fabric is winded from said spool, conveyed
through a
thermal fixation station 311, and winded again on a spool 21. Alternatively or
additionally to the thermal fixation station 311, the coated and dried fabric
can also be
conveyed through chemical fixation stations 417 as exemplary shown in figure
2. As
indicated by the dash lined box in figure 3, the coated and dried fabric can
be conveyed
through a softening station 37 before being conveyed through the thermal
fixation
station 311 and/or the chemical fixation stations 417. As softening station 37
a foulard
43 can be used in which a softening agent, in particular a nano-silicone-based
softening
agent, can be applied to the fabric to soften said fabric.
As indicated by the lower arrow in figure 3, the coated, dried, optionally
softened, and
fixed fabric can be transported, in particular winded on a spool 21, to a
sanforizing
station 45 in which the fabric is again winded from a spool, conveyed through
the
sanforizing station 45 and winded again on a spool. The fabric is conveyed
through the
sanforizing station to reduce or eliminate the shrinking properties of the
coated fabric.
The coating station 39 and the drying station ii, 311 shown in figure 3 are
described in
more detail in figure 9. The softening station 37 can be similar or equal to
the foulards
described in detail as pretreating station 15 in figure 4 and figure 7. An
exemplary
thermal fixation station 311 is described in more detail in figure 10. An
example for a
sanforizing station is described in more detail in figure 12.
Figure 4 illustrates an exemplary pretreating station 15 in form of a foulard,
also known
as padding machine. Fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric become/s
winded from
a spool 21, conveyed over rotating drums through the pretreating station 15,
and
winded again on a spool 21. The pretreating station 21 comprises a vat 215
filled with an
aqueous solution, in particular any of the aqueous solutions ci) to c3),
through which
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed over four
rotating drums
223 being located in the aqueous solution. Further to that the pretreating
station
comprises two pressure drums 414 opposing each other and forming a slit
through
which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed after
leaving the vat
215 filled with the aqueous solution.
Figure 5 illustrates six exemplary standby stations 27 in the particular form
of rotating
stations. On said rotating stations fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric that is/are
winded on a spool 21 become rotated on a rotating table 227.
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Figure 6 illustrates fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric being winded
from a spool
21, conveyed through an exemplary washing station 5 in form of a multi-vat
washing
machine 105, followed by an exemplary drying station 11 in the particular form
of ten
heated drums 211, and winded again on a spool ii after having passed the last
heated
drum 211. The multi-vat washing machine 105 in figure 6 comprises six washing
vats
205. Each washing vat 205 comprises rotating drums 25 and pressure drums 415
arranged in a cascade such that fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
merge/s and
leave the washing solution 305 five to six times in each washing vat. When
leaving the
first, the third, the fifth, and the sixth washing vat 205 the fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed through pressure drums 405 opposing each
other and
building a slit.
An installation comprising in serious the stations illustrated in figure 4,
figure 5, and
figure 6 followed by a coloring station 9 is preferably used when the fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are pretreated with the aqueous solution et).
A
particular advantage regarding the reproducibility and precision in adjusting
the color
fastness results from the discontinuous process path allowing, contrary to the
conventional continuous dyeing process shown in figure 1, to adjust process
parameters
of each station independently and to perform quality checks after each
station. In
addition, an advantage can be derived from the discontinuous process, namely
that the
production capacity of each station can be exploited independent from the
others. This
can become very relevant in view of long standby times between 14 and 36 hours
in the
standby station 27.
Figure 7 illustrates a fabric being folded in a movable container 121 from
which the
fabric is conveyed by rotating drums 23 in series through a pretreating
station 15, a
drying station in form of a stenter 311, and is winded again on a spool 21.
For a better
readability, machinery parts that has already been described before are
designated with
the same reference signs. The pretreating station 15 differs from the
pretreating station
illustrated in figure 4 by the number of rotating drums 223 in the pretreating
vat 215,
namely two. As can be seen in figure 7, instead of conveying the fabric from a
movable
container 121, the fabric can also be winded from a spool 21. The stenter 311
is
separated in stenter sections 511 aligned in a row, wherein each stenter
section 511
comprises an air blowing module 6ii to provide a consistent flow of hot air in
each
stenter section 511. Four of these stenter sections 511 are illustrated in
figure 7.
However the cutting line C indicates that more than four stenter sections 511,
for
example five, six, eight, nine, ten, eleven, or twelve, can be used.
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An installation comprising in serious a pretreating station 15, a drying
station in form
of a stenter 311, and a coloring station 9 is preferably used when fibers, a
yarns, a
multitude of yarns, or a fabric is/are pretreated with c2). One advantage of
this
installation, in particular in combination with pretreatment d2) is the short
processing
time, and the precision that can be achieved regarding the moisture content of
the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric when leaving the stenter 311 since
the
temperature and the flow of heated air can be adjusted for each stenter
section 411
separately.
Figure 8 shows an installation, wherein fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
winded from a spool 21 and conveyed in series through three pretreating
stations 15,
wherein the second pretreating station is equal to the pretreating station
shown in
figure 4, a steaming station 31, a washing vat 205 for prewashing before
entering the
subsequent multi-vat washing machine 105, a drying station 11 in form of ten
heated
drums 211, and winded again on a spool 21. For a better readability machinery
parts
that have already been described before are designated with the same reference
signs.
In the first and third pretreating station 15 shown in figure 8 only one
rotating drum
223 is located in the pretreating vat 215. The fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or fabric
is/are not conveyed through pressure drums when leaving the first pretreating
station
15. The steaming station 31 consists of three steaming station sections 131
aligned in a
row, wherein the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
over eight
rotating drums 23 in each steaming station section 131 while being subjected
with
water steam, in particular with saturated steam. In the washing vat 205 for
prewashing
between steaming station 31 and multi-vat washing station 105, the fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed over one drum within the washing
solution 305 and through pressure drums 415 before heading to the multi-vat
washing
machine. The multi-vat washing machine 105 in figure 8 is similar to that
shown in
figure 6. One difference is the number of washing vats 205 through which the
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed, namely four. However the
multi-vat
washing machine can also comprise more washing vats 205, such as five, six,
seven,
eight, nine or ten washing vats 205. Another difference is that in the multi-
vat washing
105 shown in figure 8 the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed
through pressure drums 415 each time when leaving a washing vat 205.
An installation comprising in serious one to three pretreating stations 15, a
steaming
station 31, potentially a washing vat 205 for prewashing, a multi-vat washing
machine
105, a drying station ii in form of heated drums 211, and a coloring station 9
is
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preferably used when the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
pretreated
with c3). The use of three independently adjustable steaming station sections
131
regarding steam temperature and/or steam saturation, allows to precisely and
reproducibly softening the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric. The
use of an
independently adjustable pre washing vat 205 regarding the composition of the
washing solution 305 and/or the temperature of the washing solution allows to
precisely and reproducibly control the peeling process. Alternatively or in
addition, the
use of a multi-vat washing machine 105 comprising four to ten, preferably
eight,
independently adjustable washing vats 205 regarding washing solution 305 and
temperature of the washing solutions allows to precisely and reproducibly
control the
peeling process. A properly controlled peeling process is of high importance
since
peeling increases on one hand the surface of fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns,
or fabric,
which increase/s the maximum amount of color that can be picked up by fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric, and/or the amount of color that is picked up
when fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed under certain process
parameters
through a coloring station 9. However on the other hand, peeling lowers the
tensile
strength of fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric.
With an arrangement of stations as described and exemplary shown in figure 8,
preferably in combination with the pretreating step d3) as described above,
fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric with a tensile strength can be obtained which is
less than
the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the pretreatment step, but not
more than 20
% less the tensile strength of said fibers prior to the pretreatment step and
more
preferably not more than 10 % less the tensile strength of said fibers prior
to the
pretreatment step, measured in each case at 23 5 C, preferably at 23 2.5
C, more
preferably at 23 1.5 C, most preferably at 23 0.5 C.
The steaming station 31 shown in figure 8 can also be used to subject the
fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric after leaving the coloring station 9 with water
steam, in
particular with saturated water steam. In a preferred embodiment the steaming
station
31 is followed by a multi-vat washing machine 105. Said multi-vat washing
machine
preferably comprises eight washing vats 405. Preferably used washing vats 405
and
preferred arrangements of washing vats 405 are shown in figure 6 and figure 8.
Features and advantages described with respect to the use a multi-vat washing
machines before the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
conveyed through
the coloring station 9 also applies to the use of a multi-vat washing machine
after
leaving the coloring station 9 and a subsequent steaming station 31.
Alternatively or
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additionally a washing vat 415 can also be arranged directly behind the
coloring station,
such that colored fibers, yarns, or fabric can be subjected to a washing step
after leaving
the coloring station 9. Further a drying station 11, 211, 311 as exemplary
shown and
described in figure 6, figure 7, and figure 8 can be arranged behind the multi-
vat
washing machine 105 or behind a single washing vat, such that the fibers,
yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric can be subjected to a drying step after the
washing step.
Such a drying station 11 can for example be realized by heated drums 211, over
which
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed as shown in
figure 6 and
figure 8, or by a stenter 311 as exemplary shown in figure 7, figure 9, and
figure 10.
Figure 9 shows an installation, wherein a fabric is winded from a spool 21,
conveyed
over rotating drums 23 in sequence through a coating station 39, a drying
station 11 in
form of a stenter 311, and winded again on a spool 21. For a better
readability
machinery parts that has already been described before are designated with the
same
reference signs. The coating station 39 comprises eight roll coaters 139
arranged
adjacent to each other. The use of a coating station 39 consisting of several
pre- and/or
post-metering devices leads to a significant reduction of the required room
capacity for
an installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fabrics. Further to that, it
has
surprisingly been found that compared to a cascade of dyeing stations and
ventilation
stations as shown in figure 1, a coating station 39 consisting of several pre-
and/or post-
metering devices arranged adjacent to each other increases the reproducibility
and
precision in adjusting the amount of color being picked up by the fabric. The
stenter 311
comprises three stenter sections 411, wherein each of the sections becomes
heated
separately. In the stenter 311 shown in figure 9, rotating drums are arranged
in such a
way that fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed three
times through
the three stenter sections 411. With such a stenter 311 the required room
capacity for an
installation for dyeing or coating fabrics can be reduced.
Using a coating station 39 as coloring station as shown in figure 9
illustrates the eight
aspect of the present invention and is preferably used in combination with any
of the
first to the third, and/or with the fourth, and/or the seventh aspect of the
present
invention.
In figure 10 a thermal fixation station 217 in form of third stenter 311 is
shown which
comprises ten stenter sections 411, wherein the ten stenter sections 411 are
separated in
five groups each containing two stenter sections 411 that are arranged
adjacent to each
other, wherein each group of stenter sections 411 is followed by an air
ventilation
section 611. Hot air which is blown into the stenter sections 411 by the
blowing modules
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511 passes the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric that is/are
conveyed through
the thermal fixation station 217 and leaves the stenter 311 through the air
ventilation
sections 611.
Supplementing an installation for dyeing or coating synthetic fibers, yarn,
multitude of
yarns, or fabric with a thermal fixation station 217 as exemplary shown in
figure 10 that
is located behind a coloring station 9, in particular in sequence behind a
coloring
station 9 and a drying station 11, illustrates one embodiment of the seventh
aspect of
the present invention and is preferably used in combination with any of the
first to the
third, and/or with the fourth, and/or the fifth or sixth aspect of the present
invention.
It has to be clear that each of the stenters 311 shown in figure 7, figure 9,
and figure to
can either be used as a drying station 11 or as thermal fixation station 217.
Figure 11 schematically shows a coloring installation that is preferably used,
when the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are subjected to an
intermediate treatment
with at least one aqueous electrolyte solution containing at least one
cationic
electrolyte, in particular at least one cationic polyelectrolyte, after the
fibers, yarn,
multitude of yarns, or fabric have/has been dyed and optionally subsequently
washed.
Such an installation preferably comprises in series a first dyeing station 19,
optionally a
ventilation station 7, a washing station 5, optionally a ventilation station
7, and an
electrolyte treatment station 33. It has been found advantages to supplement
such an
installation with further dyeing stations 19, washing stations 5, and
optionally
ventilation stations 7. In a preferred embodiment as indicated in figure ii,
the
electrolyte treatment station 33 is followed downstream in serious optionally
by a
ventilation station 7, a washing station 5, optionally a ventilation station
7, and a
cascade of four dyeing stations 19, each optionally followed by a ventilation
station 7.
The last dyeing station 19 can be followed downstream in serious by a cascade
of five
washing stations 5, wherein the first of these washing stations 5 is
optionally followed
by a ventilation station 7, and wherein the second of these washing stations 4
is
optionally followed by a warm air ventilation station 117. In a rather
preferred
embodiment the cascade of five washing stations 5 is followed downstream in
serious
by a drying station 11 and/or a sizing station 15. Additionally or
alternatively, the fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can be conveyed downstream in serious
through an
accumulator station 1, a calender 3, a washing station 5, a ventilation
station 7, and/or
three washing stations 5, before entering said first dyeing station 19.
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As electrolyte treatment station 33 a vat comprising an aqueous electrolyte
solution
through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
as shown
in figure 11 can be used. Thereby the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
conveyed over three rotating drums 123 within the aqueous electrolyte
solution.
As dyeing stations 19, vats comprising an aqueous dye formulation through
which the
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed as shown in figure
11 can be
used. Thereby the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed
in series
over five rotating drums 123 within the aqueous dye formulation, through two
pressure
drums 515, over five rotating drums 123 within the aqueous dye formulation,
and
through two pressure drums 415 outside of the dyeing vat 29 and of the aqueous
dye
formulation.
As washing stations 5, vats comprising a washing solution through which the
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed as shown in figure 11 can
be used.
Thereby the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed in
series over
rotating drums 123 in the washing solution, optionally through pressure drums
515
followed again by rotating drums 123 in the washing solution, and through two
pressure drums 415 outside of the washing vat 29. It is also possible to
conduct the
washing steps with washing stations 5 as shown and described with respect to
figure 6
and figure 8.
In particular in order to reduce or eliminate the shrinking properties of the
colored
fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric, an installation of the present
invention can
further comprise a sanforizing station through which, preferably after the
fixation step,
colored fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed. In the
sanforizing
station shown in figure 12, fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are
winded from
a spool 21 or unloaded from a movable container 121, conveyed over rotating
drums in
serious through a wetting station 35, a drying station 11 consisting of
fourteen heated
drums 211, a shrinking unit 47, a dryer 55, an accumulator station 41, and
winded again
on a spool 21 or loaded into a movable container 121. The wetting station 35
comprises
a wetting vat 135, through which the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or
fabric is/are
conveyed when entering the wetting station 35 and pressure drums 415 through
which
the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are conveyed when leaving
the wetting
station 35. The sanforizing unit 47 comprises a pressure roll 51 and a rubber
sleeve 49
that is clamped by three rubber sleeve cylinders 53. The pressure roll 51 and
the rubber
sleeve cylinders 53 squeeze the rubber sleeve 49 in a pressure zone such that
the rubber
sleeve becomes elastically stretched. The wetted, heated and thereby partially
dried
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fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric is/are fed into this pressure zone
and
conveyed with the rubber sleeve out of the pressure zone. When leaving the
pressure
zone the rubber sleeve returns to its original length thereby compressing the
fibers,
yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric such that the fibers, yarn, multitude of
yarns, or
fabric shrink/s. When the shrunk fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric
is/are
conveyed through the dryer 55, in this case over a heated drum, they become
dried such
that they remain in the shrunk state. After leaving the dryer 55 and before
entering the
accumulator section 41, the fibers, yarn, multitude of yarns, or fabric can be
stretched
between two rotating drums 23.
Although modifications and changes maybe suggested by those skilled in the
art, it is
the intention of the applicant to embody within the patent warranted hereon
all
changes and modifications as reasonably and probably come within the scope of
this
contribution to the art. The features of the present invention which are
believed to be
novel are set forth in detail in the appended claims. The features disclosed
in the
description, as well as the features disclosed in the figures can individually
or in any
combination be of relevance for the present invention in the different
embodiments.
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References
accumulator
3 calender
5, 105, 305 washing station
7, ventilation station
9, 19, 39 coloring station
11, 211, 311 drying station
13 sizing station
15 pretreating station
17, 217, 417 fixation station
19 dying station
21, 121 spool
23, 123, 223 rotating drums
25 liquid level
27 standby station
29 dyeing vat
31 steaming station
33 electrolyte treatment station
35 wetting station
37 softening station
39 coating station
41 accumulator station
43 foulard
45 sanforizing station
47 shrinking unit
49 rubber sleeve
51 pressure roll
53 rubber sleeve cylinders
55 dryer
105 multi-vat washing machine
117 warm air ventilation station
121 movable container
123 rotating drums in the aqueous dye formulation
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131 steaming station section
135 wetting vat
139 roll coater
205 washing vat
211 heated drums
215 pretreating vat
217, 311 thermal fixation station
223 rotating drums in pretreating vat
227 rotating table
305 washing solution
311 stenter
411 stenter section
415 pressure drums
417 chemical fixation station
511 air blowing module
515 pressure drums in the aqueous dye formulation
611 air ventilation section
cutting line
44