Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
1
ANTI-SUN COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING
MYCOSPORIN-LIKE AMINO ACIDS
Field of the invention
The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic or
dennatological composition,
advantageously solar, comprising mycosporin-like amino acids and solar
screening agents, as well as
its use to protect the skin against ultraviolet radiation.
Prior state of the art
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation consists of light with a wavelength between 100 nm
and 400 nm,
traditionally divided into 3 subgroups: UVA (400-315 nm), UVB (315-280 nm) and
UV-C (280-100
nm). UV-C, of short wavelength, is the most high-energy and harmful UV. It is
screening agented by
the ozone layer of the atmosphere and does flot reach the Earth's surface in
considerable quantities.
Most skin damage is caused by UVA and UVB.
UVB induces production of the skin's natural pigment called "melanin", which
is the origin of the
phenomenon commonly called "tanning". UVB also stimulates cells to produce
thicker epidermis. The
reactions described above constitute a defense mechanism of the body against
UV radiation.
The high energy of UVB generates molecular disorders (DNA alteration and
protein damage) which,
in the long term, saturate and block the nuclear DNA repair system. This leads
to permanent mutations
in the genome of affected cells, which are the cause of skin cancer. In this
case, it is a direct UVB
toxicity. As for UVA, it is known that it penetrates the deeper layers of the
skin, where it produces
harmful effects, particularly within connective tissue and on blood vessels.
In particular, it is the cause
of the phenomenon called "helioderma", i.e., the premature actinic aging of
the skin.
In addition, although UVB is the main cause of skin cancer, UVA also
contributes indirectly to this
type of damage. Indeed, UVA and UVB are the cause of production of free
radicals, in particular ROS
(Reactive Oxygen Species). These are very unstable molecules with a very short
half-life, in the order
of a nanosecond to a millisecond. ROS are capable of damaging intracellular
structures (DNA,
membranes, intracellular proteins, etc.) as well as extracellular structures
(components of the
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extracellular matrix such as collagen fibers, etc.). ROS also exert an
indirect harmful action, by causing
the oxidation of membrane lipids, which induces the formation of reactive
carbonyl species that
contribute to amplifying tissue and cellular damage.
Therefore, it is necessary to combat the harmful effects of UV radiation,
particularly UVA and UVB,
taking into account interindividual differences such as skin type (phototype)
and sun exposure times.
For this reason, anti-sun compositions have been developed to ensure
photoprotection of areas subject
to UV radiation. These compositions are in the form of lotion, oit, oit-in-
water or water-in-oit type
emulsion, foam, gel, stick or spray. They contain a cosmetically acceptable
support and one or more
chemical screening agents or minerai screens at various concentrations.
Mineral sunscreens, including zinc oxides and titanium dioxides, protect
against UV rays by reflecting
sunlight. Therefore, they act like mirrors located on the surface of the skin.
Minerai screens, at least
in micrometric formulations, are safe for human use and pose no health risks.
However, they have disadvantages:
- minerai screens tend to dry out the skin and spread with difficulty,
leaving white streaks on the
skin that can be very unsightly;
- the galenic assessment minerai screen-based compositions is often poor,
particularly in
silicone-free compositions.
Chemical screening agents are organic compounds that absorb light, creating a
screening agenting
layer on the skin that neutralizes UV rays. Thus, when the solar screening
agent molecule receives UV
radiation, it goes into an excited state by absorbing the energy of the
radiation and then returns to its
stable state. By this mechanism, light radiation is converted into heat and
dissipated. Therefore,
chemical screening agents act in the same way as melanin, the skin's natural
photoprotective pigment.
Most chemical or organic screening agents are lipophilic and are, therefore,
suitable for use in highly
water-resistant compositions. From a galenic point of view, organic screening
agent-based
compositions are generally more appreciated than mineral screen-based
compositions, thereby making
it possible to improve compliance by users.
In Europe, all organic screening agents or mineral screens, authorized by
regulations, are included in
a list (Annex VI of the European Cosmetic Products Directive). This is a list
currently containing
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approximately thirty compounds according to their INCI designation which the
cosmetics industry
must draw from in order to formulate sun protection products. However, this
list is not static and is
constantly evolving based on the results of scientific research. Indeed,
several studies have
demonstrated that some of the organic screening agents on this list could
cause risks to human health
and the environment, particularly because they are suspected of acting as
endocrine disruptors.
In particular, scientific results cast doubt on the safety of benzophenone-4
or even benzophenone-3
(Kinnberg et al. 2015; Zucchi et al. 2011), octyl methoxycinnamate (Szwarcfarb
et al. 2008, Axelstad
et al. 2011) 3-methylbenzylidene camphor and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor
(Schlumpf et al. 2008;
Petersen et al. 2007), octocrylene, isoamyl methoxycinnamate, or else octyl
dimethyl PABA
(Schlumpf et al. 2001; Rehfeld et al. 2016; Ozàez et al. 2016).
Alongside the possible effects on humans, the effect of these molecules on
natural environments
cannot be overlooked; indeed, the screening agents are continuously dispersed
in bathing water or in
wastewater. This water pollution, associated with UV screening agents,
inevitably has repercussions
throughout the food chain, with unpredictable consequences on the balance of
an ecosystem already
compromised by human activities; among other examples of ecotoxic effects,
solar screening agents
would have a negative impact on marine reefs and would be particularly
responsible for the
phenomenon of coral bleaching (Danovaro et al. 2008).
The graduai reduction in the number of organic solar screening agents,
considered safe for human use
and for the environment, increasingly complicates the formulation of cosmetic
sunscreen products,
particularly sunscreen products with a high protection factor, i.e., with an
SPF ("Sun Protection
Factor") greater than 20 or even 30. The formulation of a product with high
sun protection is
particularly difficult in the case of products made for the Canadian and
American market, where only
part of the latest generation screening agents used in Europe for two decades
is authorized.
To compensate for the reduced number of usable solar screening agents, sun
protection agents are
often formulated in cosmetic products. These sun protection agents are
sometimes molecules close to
authorized solar screening agents, or plastic derivatives, which can,
therefore, suffer fi-om the same
disadvantages as organic solar screening agents; in particular, their
ecotoxicity could be significant.
An interesting family of protective agents is represented by Mycosporin-like
Amino Acids (or MAAs).
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MAAs are small heterocyclic molecules (<400 Da) comprising cyclohexenone or
cyclohexenimine
chromophores.
MAAs are found naturally as secondary metabolites in marine organisms, such as
corals, algae and
cyanobacteria, and are, therefore, expected to be eco-compatible and
respectful of aquatic ecosystems.
In particular, document EP2855441 discloses a family of compounds, of the MAA
type, having the
following general JE formula:
Ré Y R5
* 118 bis, . NH
Ill
111 R4
That document specifies that these compounds, fi-om the TE molecule family,
absorb ultraviolet
radiation and may be used as an anti-UV agent. The compounds of formulas IA1
and 1E4 having a sun
protection factor of 2.4 and 4.5, respectively, are given as examples.
Thus, although the MAAs of the TE molecule family absorb UV radiation, their
sun protection factor
is insufficient for use in anti-sun cosmetic compositions.
Although considered good candidates for the formulation of eco-compatible
solar products, a solution
must be found to improve the anti-UV potential of MAAs, in order to be able to
use them in solar
products.
Thus, the present invention aims to overcome the disadvantages of the state of
the art, by proposing
an ecobiological composition comprising MMAs and whose SPF is compatible with
topical solar
application.
Disclosure of the invention
The applicant observed, quite surprisingly, that combining MMAs with at least
two organic UVBs
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and/or broad-spectrum screening agents in the presence of at least one organic
UVA screening agent
made it possible to obtain an SPF with a value greater than that of the sum of
the respective SPFs of
the MAAs and organic screening agents.
Therefore, this combination lends itself to their implementation in
compositions with high solar
protection with relatively low levels of organic screening agents.
Thus, according to a first aspect, the invention relates to a composition, in
particular a cosmetic or
dermatological composition, comprising:
¨ at least one amino acid analog of mycosporin called "MAA";
¨ at least two organic UVB screening agents and/or at least two broad-
spectrum organic
screening agents;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
According to another aspect, the invention relates to a composition, in
particular a cosmetic or
dermatological composition, comprising:
¨ at least one amino acid analog of mycosporin called "MAA" chosen from the
group consisting
of molecules A of formula IA or one of its acceptable salts, and/or the group
consisting of molecules
B of formula IB or one of its acceptable salts, said formula IA being:
Formula IA:
N R2N
10 Ri
Formula IB:
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eS
N N
Ri
wherein:
R1 is hydrogen; alkyl; alkenyl; alkynyl; aryl; heterocycle; cycloalkyl;
alkoxy; alkanoyl; hydroxyl; a
sulfo group; a halogen group; a phosphono group; an ester group; a carboxylic
acid group; a phenyl
group; an amino group; an alkylated fatty acid chain or a polyether;
R2 is alkyl; alkenyl; alkynyl; aryl; heterocycle; cycloalkyl; alkoxy;
alkanoyl; a sulfo group; a
phosphono group; an ester group; a carboxylic acid group; hydroxyl; or a
phenyl group;
said composition further comprising:
¨ at least two organic screening agents chosen from organic UVB screening
agents and/or broad-
spectrum organic screening agents absorbing both UVBs and UVAs;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention is ecobiological.
The term "ecobiological composition" is understood to mean respectful of the
person, their
interactions with the world, and the planet.
The MAAs according to the invention are known to a person skilled in the art
and disclosed, for
example, in patent application W02013/181741 which details the process for
obtaining and purifying
them.
According to a particular embodiment, R1 is an alkoxy group of the [CH3]-
[CH211-0- type, wherein
"n" is between 0 and 10. According to a preferred embodiment, "n"=0 or "n"=8.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, R2 is a carboxylic acid
group of the type
[COOH]-[CH211-, wherein "n" is between 0 and 5, or preferably "n"=1 or "n"=0.
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According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, R2 is an ester group
of the type [CF13]-
[CH2],-[COOH] -, wherein "n" is between 0 and 5, or preferably "n"= 1 or
"n"=2.
According to another particular embodiment, R1 is an alkoxy group of the [CH3]-
[CH2].-0- type,
where "n"=0; R2 is an ester group of the type [CH3]-[CF12].-[COOI-1] -, where
"n"=1 or "n"=2 or R2
is a carboxylic acid group of the type [COOFI]-[CI-12], -, wherein "n" is
between 0 and 5, or preferably
"n"=1 or
Thus, and according to a particular embodiment, the MAA according to formula
IA corresponds to
the molecule of formula IIA1 below:
Formula IIAl:
o
I
e 0/
This molecule of formula IIA1 : [N- [(3E)-3- [(4-methoxyphenyl)imino] -5 ,5-
dimethyl- 1-cyclohexen-1 -
yll-glycine, corresponding to CAS number 1509902-01- 5] is marketed by ELKIMIA
Inc. under the
INCI designation: methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine.
In another embodiment, the MAA according to formula IA corresponds to the
molecule of formula
IIA2 bel ow:
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Formula IIA2:
0
NI N
0
This molecule of formula IIA2: [N-[3-[(4-methoxyphenyl)amino]-5,5-dimethy1-2-
cyclohexen-1-
ylidene]-, ethyl ester, [N(E)]-glycine, corresponding to CAS number 2640340-86-
7] is available fi-om
SENSIENT Inc. under the trade name SENSISORBTm BIOMIM (INCE methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate).
According to a preferred embodiment, the MAA according to formula IB
corresponds to the molecule
of formula IIB1 below:
Formula IIB1
o
0.).S
N N
)10
4111 0
I...
`===,..,
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This molecule of formula IIB1 [3,5,6,7-tetrahydro-6,6-dimethy1-84[4-
(octyloxy)phenyl]amino]-211-
1,4-Benzothiazine-3-carboxylic acid, corresponding to CAS number 1629023-01-3]
is marketed by
ELKIMIA Inc. under the INCI designation: caprylyloxyphenylamino
dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine carboxylic acid.
According to an alternative embodiment, the MAA according to formula IB
corresponds to the
molecule of formula IIB2 below:
Formula IIB2
o
0 s
NO N
0
1
This molecule of formula IIB2 [3,5,6,7-tetrahydro-8-[(4-methoxyphenyl)amino]-
6,6-dimethy1-211-
1,4-Benzothiazine-3-carboxylic acid corresponding to CAS number 1629023 -04-6]
is marketed by
ELKIMIA Inc. under the INCI designation: methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid.
According to an alternative embodiment, the MAA according to formula IB
corresponds to the
molecule of formula IIB3 below.
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Formula IIB3:
0
N
0
S
N
0
This molecule of formula ethylester-(3R)-2H-1,4-Benzothiazine-3-carboxylic
acid, 3,4,5,6,7,8-
hexahydro-8-[(4-methoxyphenypimino]-6,6-dimethyl corresponds to CAS number
2699128-33-9.
In a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the
invention contain at
least two MAAs as defined above, in particular chosen from the molecules
corresponding to the INCI
designations: methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine,
caprylyloxyphenylamino
dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino
dimethylhexahydro
benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl
ethyl glycinate as well
as, optionally, the compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9.
According to a particular embodiment, the compositions according to the
invention contain at least
three MAAs.
Within the meaning of the invention, the term "acceptable salts" is understood
to mean any
pharmacologically or cosmetically acceptable sait of MAA, such as, for
exampleõ sulfate, citrate,
acetate, oxalate, chloride, bromide, iodide, nitrate, bisulfate, phosphate,
isonicotinate, lactate,
salicylate, citrate, tartrate, oleate, tannate, pantothenate, bitartrate,
ascorbate, succinate, maleate,
gentisinate, fumarate, gluconate, glucuronate, saccharate, formate, benzoate,
glutamate,
methanesulfonate, ethanesulfonate, benzenesulfonate, p- toluenesulfonate,
pamoate and 3-
hydroxynaphthoate salts.
According to a particular embodiment, the MAA(s) represent(s) between 0.1% and
20% by mass
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relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and
10%, even more
advantageously between 1 and 2%.
The term "organic solar screening agent" designates organic UVB screening
agents, organic UVA
screening agents and broad-spectrum organic screening agents.
Within the meaning of the invention, the term "organic UVB screening agent" is
understood to mean
any organic solar screening agent, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic, which,
mainly or exclusively,
absorbs UVBs.
According to a particular embodiment, the organic UVB screening agent is
chosen from salicylates.
More particularly, the organic UVB screening agent is chosen from the
compounds corresponding to
the following INCI designations: ethylhexyl salicylate and homosalate or else
phenylbenzimidazole
sulfonic acid or ethylhexyl triazone.
A source of the latter is the raw material UV1NULTM T150 marketed by BASF.
The organic UVB screening agent corresponding to the INCI designation:
phenylbenzimidazole
sulfonic acid, for its part, is available from AAKO BV under the name AakoSun
PBSA. Salicylates
corresponding to the INCI designations: octyl salicylate and homosalate are
available from SYMRISE
under the names Neo HeliopanTM OS and Neo HeliopanTM HMS, respectively.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one
organic UVB screening agent
represents between 1% and 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the
composition, preferably
between 2% and 15%.
Within the meaning of the invention, the term "organic UVA screening agent" is
understood to mean
any organic solar screening agent, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic, which,
mainly or exclusively,
absorbs UVAs.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises at least
one UVA solar screening agent chosen from the group comprising the compounds
corresponding to
the following INCI designations: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino
hydroxybenzoyl
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hexyl benzoate, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine, disodium
phenyl
dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and
diethylamino
hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
For example, the UVA screening agents according to the invention correspond to
the raw material
Parsol 1789 (INCE butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) marketed by DSM; the raw
material
UVINULTM A+ (INCE diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) marketed by
BASF; the raw
material C1332TM [INCI: bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine;
CAS number
919803-06-8] marketed by BASF; or the raw material Neo HeliopanTM AP
corresponding to the INCI
designation: disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, and marketed by
SYMRISE.
According to a particular embodiment, said at least one organic UVA screening
agent represents
between 1% and 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition,
preferably between 2%
and 7%.
Within the meaning of the invention, the term "broad-spectrum organic
screening agent" is understood
to mean any organic solar screening agent, whether hydrophilic or lipophilic,
which absorbs both
UVBs and UVAs. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according
to the invention
comprises at least one broad-spectrum solar screening agent chosen fi-om the
group comprising the
compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: bis-
ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, tris-biphenyl
triazine, phenylene bis-
diphenyltriazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol and
drometrizole trisiloxane,
in particular bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl
butamido triazone, tris-
biphenyl triazine, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
These solar screening agents are available from the following suppliers:
¨ PARSOLTM Shield marketed by SYMRISE and corresponding to the INCI
designation: bis
ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine;
¨ UVASORBTM HEB marketed by SIGMA 3V and corresponding to the INCI
designation:
diethylhexyl butamido triazone;
¨ TINOSORBTm A2B marketed by BASF and corresponding to the INCI
designation: tris-
biphenyl triazine;
¨ TRIASORBTm marketed by PLANTES & INDUSTRIE and corresponding to the INCI
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designation: phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (CAS number 55514-22-2);
¨ MEXORYLTM XL, corresponding to the INCI designation: drometrizole
trisiloxane;
¨ TINOSORBTm M marketed by BASF and corresponding to the INCI designation:
methylene
bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol.
According to a particular embodiment, said at least one broad-spectrum organic
screening agent
represents between 1% and 15% by mass relative to the total mass of the
composition, preferably
between 2% and 10%.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9,
¨ at least two organic UVB screening agents;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least two broad-spectrum organic screening agents;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
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carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least one organic UVB screening agent;
¨ at least one broad-spectrum organic screening agent;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
According to yet another embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least one organic UVB screening agent;
¨ at least two broad-spectrum organic screening agents;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
According to yet another embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least two organic UVB screening agents;
¨ at least one broad-spectrum organic screening agent;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
According to another aspect, the composition according to the invention
comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
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dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least 2 UVB screening agents corresponding to the following INCI
designations: octyl
salicylate and homosalate;
¨ at least the organic UVA screening agent corresponding to the following
INCI designation:
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises as MAA and
organic solar screening agents:
¨ one MAA chosen from the group consisting of the molecules corresponding
to the INCI
designations: methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine,
caprylyloxyphenylamino
dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino
dimethylhexahydro
benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl
glycinate, as
well as, optionally, the compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9,
advantageously methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine;
¨ 2 UVB screening agents corresponding to the following INCI designations:
octyl salicylate
and homosalate;
¨ an organic UVA screening agent corresponding to the following INCI
designation: butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane.
According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises as MAAs
and organic solar screening agents:
¨ two MAAs chosen from the group consisting of molecules corresponding to the
INCI
designations: methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine,
caprylyloxyphenylamino
dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino
dimethylhexahydro
benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl
glycinate, as
well as, optionally, the compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9,
advantageously methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine and
methoxyphenylimino
dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid and methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate;
¨ 2 UVB screening agents corresponding to the following INCI designations:
octyl salicylate
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and homosalate;
¨ an organic UVA screening agent corresponding to the following INCI
designation: butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen fi-om the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least 2 UVB screening agents, corresponding to the following INCI
designations: octyl
salicylate and homosalate;
¨ at least the organic UVA screening agent corresponding to the following
INCI designation:
diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
According to a different embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen fi-om the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least two broad-spectrum screening agents corresponding to the
following INCI
designations: diethylhexyl butamido triazone and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl
triazine;
¨ at least one UVA solar screening agent chosen from the group comprising
the compounds
corresponding to the following INCI designations: butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane,
diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl
benzoyl)
piperazine, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, in particular
butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate,
advantageously
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
17
According to a different embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen fi-om the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least two broad-spectrum screening agents corresponding to the
following INCI
designations: diethylhexyl butamido triazone and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl
triazine;
¨ at least one UVA solar screening agent corresponding to the following
INCI designation:
diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises as MAA and
organic solar screening agents:
¨ one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group consisting
of the molecules
corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene
glycine,
caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine
carboxylic acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine
carboxylic acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
corresponding compound with CAS number 2699128-33-9, advantageously
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine;
¨ two broad-spectrum screening agents corresponding to the following INCI
designations:
diethylhexyl butamido triazone and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl
triazine;
¨ a UVA solar screening agent corresponding to the following INCI designation:
diethylamino
hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen fi-om the group
consisting of the
corresponding molecules corresponding to the INCI designations:
methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
18
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least broad-spectrum screening agents corresponding to the following
INCI designations:
diethylhexyl butamido triazone and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl
triazine;
¨ at least the organic UVB screening agent corresponding to the following
INCI designation:
ethylhexyl triazone;
¨ at least the organic UVA screening agent corresponding to the following
INCI designation:
butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen fi-om the group
consisting of the
corresponding molecules corresponding to the INCI designations:
methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least broad-spectrum organic screening agents corresponding to the
following INCI
designations: diethylhexyl butamido triazone and bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol
methoxyphenyl
triazine;
¨ at least the organic UVB screening agent corresponding to the following
INCI designation:
ethylhexyl triazone;
¨ at least the organic UVA screening agent corresponding to the following
INCI designation:
diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention is free fi-om at least
one, alternatively several solar screening agents corresponding to the
following INCI designations: 4-
methylbenzylidene camphor, 3-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-2,
benzophenone-3,
benzophenone -4, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl methoxycinnamate,
octocrylene, octyl
dimethyl PABA.
Preferably, the composition also includes at least one solar screening agent
solubilizer. For the
purposes of the invention, the term "solubilizer" is understood to mean a
compound which makes it
possible to solubilize, disperse and/or dissolve at least one solar screening
agent derived from triazine
in an effective and sustainable manner, i.e., by stabilizing it in its
solubilized form while preventing
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
19
or reducing its recrystallization or precipitation in formulation throughout
the duration of use of the
product.
Thus, the compositions according to the invention further comprise of least
one solubilizer chosen
from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI
designations: caprylyl
caprylate/caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl
sebacate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-
caprylate , C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol
dicaprylate/dicaprate,
dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, triheptanoin,
C12-13 alkyl lactate,
ethylhexyl benzoate, Cl 2-C15 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl
salicylate, lauryl lactate,
diethyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl
adipate, diethylhexyl succinate,
propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, isopropyl
lauroyl sarcosinate,
propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate, phenoxyethyl
caprylate, isodecyl
salicylate, dimethyl capramide and phenethyl benzoate, in particular at least
two solubilizers chosen
from the following group: caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dibutyl adipate,
dicaprylyl carbonate,
diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate,
propylheptyl caprylate,
butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate.
Solubilizers capable of being used in a composition according to the invention
are available on the
market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials
may be used in the
composition according to the invention:
¨ Several raw materials from the CETIOLTm range marketed by BASF, in
particular CETIOLTm
RLF, CETIOLTm B, CETIOLTm CC, CETIOLTm 0, CETIOLTm C5, CETIOLTm AB,
CETIOLTm SENSOFT corresponding respectively to the following INCI
designations:
caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl
ether, coco-
caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate;
¨ DUBTm DIS, DEA, DIBA, ZENOAT marketed by STEARINE DUBOIS corresponding
respectively to the following INCI designations: diisopropyl sebacate, diethyl
adipate,
diisobutyl adipate and propanediol dicaprylate;
¨ MIGLYOLTM 8810 and MIGLYOLTM T-C7 marketed by TOI Oleo GmbH corresponding
respectively to the following INCI designations: butylene glycol
dicaprylate/dicaprate and
triheptanoin;
¨ LexsolvTM A marketed by INOLEX corresponding to the following INCI
designations:
dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
20
¨ COSMACOLTm EU, ET!, ES! and LL marketed by SASOL and corresponding
respectively
to the following INCI designations: C12-13 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl
tartrate, tridecyl
salicylate and lauryl lactate;
¨ CeraphylTM 41 ester marketed by ASHLAND and corresponding to the
following INCI
designation: Cl 2-C15 alkyl lactate;
¨ pinsolvTM EB and PG 22 marketed by INNOSPEC and corresponding
respectively to the
following INCI designations: ethylhexyl benzoate and dipropylene glycol
dibenzoate;
¨ CRODAMOLTm DA, DOA, OSU and PC marketed by CRODA and corresponding
respectively to the following INCI designations: diisopropyl adipate,
diethylhexyl adipate,
diethylhexyl suce mate and propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate;
¨ ELDEWTM SL-205 marketed by AJINOMOTO and corresponding to the following
INCI
designation: isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate;
¨ LexfeelTM Shine marketed by INOLEX and corresponding to the INCI
designation: propylene
glycol dibenzoate;
¨ TEGOSOFTTm XC marketed by EVONIK and corresponding to the following INCI
designation: phenoxyethyl caprylate;
¨ RONACARETm AP marketed by MERCK KGaA and corresponding to the following
INCI
designation: hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate;
¨ DERMOLTm IDSA marketed by Alzo INTL and corresponding to the following
INCI
designation: isodecyl salicylate;
¨ SpectrasolvTM DMDA marketed by Hallstar and corresponding to the
following INCI
designation: dimethyl capramide;
¨ X-TENDTm 226 marketed by Ashland and corresponding to the following INCI
designation:
phenethyl benzoate.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises at least
three solubilizers chosen from the group comprising the compounds
corresponding to the following
INCI designations: caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl
carbonate, diisopropyl
sebacate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate,
propylheptyl caprylate, butylene
glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises at least
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
21
the solubilizers corresponding to the following INCI designations: dibutyl
adipate, dicaprylyl
carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate.
According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises at least the
solubilizers corresponding to the following INCI designations: dibutyl
adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate,
diisopropyl sebacate and propylheptyl caprylate.
According to a particular embodiment, the solubilizers represent between 5%
and 80% by mass
relative to the total mass of the composition, advantageously between 10% and
70%, preferably
between 15% and 60%.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises minera!
screens (or inorganic mineral screening agents), which correspond to metal
oxides and/or other
compounds that are poorly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides
titanium (TiO2), zinc
(Zn0), iron (Fe2O3), zirconium (ZrO2), silicon (SiO2), manganese (e.g., MnO),
aluminum (A1203), or
cerium (Ce203), or bismuth trioxide (Bi203).
Inorganic minerai screening agents may also be surface-treated or encapsulated
in order to give them
a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character. This surface treatment
may consist of providing
the mineral screening agents with a thin hydrophilic and/or hydrophobie
inorganic and/or organic film.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises at least
one minerai screen chosen from the group comprising the compounds
corresponding to the following
INCI designations: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
For example, zinc oxide corresponds to the Z-COTE LSA raw material and
titanium dioxide to the
T-Lite raw material, marketed by BASF.
The lists of UV screening agents cited which may be implemented within the
meaning of the present
invention are, obviously, given by way of example but not limited thereto.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention has a sun protection
factor called "SPF" equal to or greater than 20, advantageously equal to or
greater than 30, preferably
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
22
equal to or greater than 40, or even equal to or greater than 50.
According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises a
UVA/UVB protection ratio equal fo or greater than 1/3.
In particular, the composition according to the invention has a critical
wavelength (Xc) greater than
370 nm. This value, which is determined by in vitro methods known to a person
skilled in the art,
corresponds to the wavelength for which the integral of the absorption
spectrum curve starting at 290
nm reaches 90% of the integral between 290 and 400 nm.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise an SPF
"booster", i.e., an amplifying
agent of the sun protection factor, and/or a photo-stabilizer, i.e., an
ingredient which makes it possible
to increase the SPF or to photostabilize the screening agents, such an
ingredient not itself being
considered as a solar screening agent. These boosters may include, for
example:
¨ butyloctyl salicylate (INCI), photostabilizer advantageously representing
between 0.01% and
10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even more
advantageously
between 0.1% and 2%. This raw material is, for example, marketed by HALLSTAR
under the
name HallbriteTM BHB;
¨ benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (INCI), photostabilizer advantageously
representing between
0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even
more
advantageously between 0.1% and 2%. This raw material is, for example,
marketed by BASF
under the name TINOGARDTm TL;
¨ pongamol (INCI), a plant molecule absorbing UVAs, advantageously
representing between
0.5 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even
more advantageously
of the order of 1%. For example, the raw material Pongamia Extract marketed by
GIVAUDAN
may be used in the context of the present invention;
¨ ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (INCI), photostabilizer, solubilizer and SPF
"booster"
advantageously representing between 1% and 5% by weight relative to the total
weight of the
composition. The SolaStayTM Si raw material marketed by HALLSTAR may be used
in the
context of the present invention;
¨ a styrene acrylate copolymer (INCI: styrene/acrylate copolymer),
preferably representing
between 1% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
according to
the invention. The SunSpheresTM H53 and SunSpheresTM PGL Polymer raw
materials,
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
23
marketed by DOW CHEMICALS, may be used in the context of the present
invention;
¨ diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (INCI), advantageously representing
between 1% and
10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The raw
material OXYNETTm
ST, marketed by MERCK, may be used in the context of the present invention;
¨ a water-dispersible polyester, corresponding to the INCI designations:
polyester-5 (and)
Sodium silicoaluminate, advantageously representing between 1% and 10% by
weight relative
to the total weight of the composition, in particular EASTMANN AQTM38S Polymer
marketed by SAFIC-ALCAN;
¨
an acrylate copolymer having a glass transition temperature of -5 C
to -15 C as measured by
differential scanning calorimetry, said copolymer advantageously representing
between 1%
and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For
example, a polymer
corresponding to the INCI designation: Acrylate copolymer, such as the raw
material EPITEX
66, marketed by DOW CHEMICALS, may be used in the context of the present
invention.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further
comprises other
components which may contribute to internat protection by an action which may
consist of a DNA
protection, a reduction in immunosuppression induced by UV radiation, an anti-
radical action or a
combined effect of these actions.
The protective action of a composition according to the invention against
oxidative stress or against
the effect of free radicals may be further improved if it further comprises
one or more antioxidants,
easily selected by a person skilled in the art, for example, in the following
list: totarol, magnolol,
honokiol, amino acids and their derivatives, peptides (D and/or L-carnosine)
and their derivatives (for
example anserine, 1 hypotaurine, taurine), carotenoids, carotenes (a-carotene,
13-carotene, lycopene)
and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and
its derivatives (dihydrolipoic
acid), aurothioglucose , propylthiouracil and other thiols (thioredoxin,
glutathione, cysteine, cystine,
cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and
lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl,
rlinoleic, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) as well as salts thereof, dilauryl
thiodipropionate, distearyl
thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives, sulfoximine
compounds (buthionine
sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, pentu-, hexa- and
heptathionine
sulfoximine), chelating agents (such as a-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid,
phytic acid, lactoferrin),
a-hydroxy acids (such as citric, lactic, or malic acid), acid humic, bile
acid, bile extracts, bilirubin,
biliverdin, ethylenediamine pentasodium tetramethylene phosphonate and its
derivatives, unsaturated
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
24
fatty acids and their derivatives, vitamin A and its derivatives (vitamin A
palmitate), coniferyl
benzoate from benzoin resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, a-glycosyl
rutin, ferulic acid and its
derivatives, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene,
butylated hydroxyanisole,
nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, quercetin, uric acid and
its derivatives, mannose
and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (ZnO, ZnSO4), selenium and its
derivatives
(selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (1 stilbene oxide, trans-
stilbene oxide).
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further
comprises
glycyrrhetinic acid, a derivative or sait of this acid, used as a soothing
(anti-inflammatory agent) and
representing between 0.01% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition,
preferably between 0.1% and 1%.
According to another preferred characteristic of the invention, the cosmetic
and/or dermatological
composition comprises at least one, or even ail, of the following constituents
exerting a biological
activity in vivo on the cells of the skin, lips, hair and/or mucous membranes
subjected to UVA and/or
UVB radiation, respectively:
¨ an anti-radical agent preserving cellular structures, such as, for
example, vitamin E and/or its
lipid-soluble or water-soluble derivatives, in particular tocotrienol and/or
tocopherol,
advantageously representing between 0.001 and 10% by weight relative to the
total weight of
the composition, even more advantageously between 0.02 and 2%, preferably of
the order of
0.04%;
¨ an agent limiting immunosuppression, such as, for example, vitamin PP,
advantageously
representing between 0.001 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of
the composition,
even more advantageously from 0.01% to 0.3%;
¨ a protective agent for the p53 protein, such as, for example,
epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG),
advantageously representing between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight relative to the
total weight of
the composition, even more advantageously from 0.005% to 0,05%.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise, in addition,
peptide extracts of soya
and/or wheat, such as those described in document EP 2 059 230.
In practice, the peptide extracts, which come from soybean and wheat seeds,
are the result of enzymatic
hydrolysis of said seeds using peptidases which make it possible to recover
peptides with an average
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
25
size of 700 Daltons. Preferably, the soy peptide extract is the extract
identified under the CAS number
68607-88-5, just as the wheat peptide extract is the extract identified under
the CAS number 70084-
87-6. Wheat and soy extracts may correspond respectively to the following INCI
designations:
hydrolyzed wheat protein and hydrolyzed soy protein.
In a particular embodiment, the peptide extracts of soya ancVor wheat are used
together, for example
in a weight ratio respectively between 80/20 and 20/80, advantageously between
70/30 and 30/70, of
preferably equal to 60/40.
In a particular embodiment, the peptide extracts of soy and/or wheat are free
of synthetic GHK (glycyl-
histidyl-lysine; INCI: Tripeptide-1) tripeptides. In practice, the peptide
extracts of soya and/or wheat
represent from 0.01 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the
composition, advantageously
from 0.1% to 10%, even more advantageously from 0.2% to 0.7%.
In an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises, in accordance
with the teachings of document FR 2 865 398, the association of at least one
amino acid chosen from
the group consisting of ectoine, creatine, ergothioneine and/or camosine, or
their physiologically
acceptable salts, and mannitol or a mannitol derivative.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a
physiologically acceptable
medium, the amino acid or one of its salts, alone or as a mixture in
proportions of between 0.001%
and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
preferably between 0.01% and
5%.
The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises, in a
physiologically
acceptable medium, mannitol or one of its derivatives, in proportions of
between 0.01% and 30% by
weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously between
0.1% and 10%.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention
comprises ectoine and
mannitol.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention comprises one or
more other tanning or self-tanning agents. It may be a self-tanner which
reacts with the amino acids
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
26
of the skin according to a Maillard reaction or through a Michael addition, or
a promoter of
melanogenesis or a propigmenting compound which promotes the natural tanning
process of the skin.
Such a tanning or self-tanning agent is preferably present in the composition
in an amount ranging
from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
advantageously from
0.5% to 15%, even more advantageously from 1% at 8%.
Self-tanning substances may be 1,3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA), glycerolaldehyde,
hydroxymethylglyoxal, y-dialdehyde, erythrulose, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin,
5-hydroxy-1,4-
naphthoquinone (juglone), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (lawsone), or a
combination thereof.
The propigmenting substances may be melanocyte-stimulating hormone (ci-MSH),
peptide analogs of
a-MSH, endothelin-1 receptor agonists, j.t-opioid receptor agonists, cAMP
stimulators, or tyrosinase
stimulators.
In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further
comprises, as a self-
tanner, a combination of dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate and/or
dimethylmethoxy chromanol,
as well as a lipophilic form of tyrosine.
This combination of active ingredients effectively stimulates tanning.
Dihydroxy methylchromonyl
palmitate (CAS number: 1387636-35-2) corresponds, for example, to the cosmetic
ingredient
marketed by MERCK under the name RonaCareTM Bronzyl. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
(CAS
number: 83923-51-7) corresponds, for example, to the cosmetic ingredient
marketed by LIPOTEC SA
under the name lipochromone-6.
According to a particular embodiment, dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate or
dimethylmethoxy
chromanol is included in the composition according to the invention in an
amount of 0.01% to 10%
by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously
0.05% to 10%, even more
advantageously from 0.1% to 5%, more particularly from 0.1% to 0.5%.
Within the meaning of the invention, the lipophilic form of tyrosine is an
tyrosine-based ingredient
that has a more pronounced lipophilic character than tyrosine. The lipophilic
form of tyrosine may, in
particular, correspond to oleoyl tyrosine (CAS number: 147732-57-8), which is
found, for example,
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
27
in the liquid cosmetic ingredient TYR-OL, marketed by SEDERMA, and which
comprises
approximately 50% by weight of oleoyl tyrosine in butylene glycol
(approximately 30% +
approximately 20% oleic acid), or in the liquid cosmetic ingredient TYR-EXCEL,
marketed by
SEDERMA, which comprises approximately 50% by weight of oleoyl tyrosine,
approximately 20%
by weight of oleic acid (CAS No.: 112-80-1) and approximately 30% by weight of
Luffa cylindrica
oil (sponge pumpkin seed oil; No. CAS: 1242417-48-6).
According to another embodiment, the lipophilic form of tyrosine corresponds
to a vegetable oil in
which the tyrosine has been formulated.
According to a particular embodiment, the vegetable oil is oleic sunflower
oil, in particular deodorized.
Thus, the OLEOACTIVE TYROSINE BASED HELIANTHUS ANNUS raw material marketed by
OLEOS, and corresponding to the INCI designations: Helianthus annuus seed oil
(and) tyrosine (and)
glyceryl stearate, may be used in the context of the present invention.
In practice, the lipophilic form of tyrosine, such as in oleoyl-tyrosine-based
cosmetic ingredients
(advantageously at 50% by weight) or tyrosine formulated in vegetable oil,
represents between 0.1%
and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
advantageously between 1 and 3%,
even more advantageously between 1% and 1.5%.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise active
ingredients having
depigmenting properties, such as, for example:
¨ lysine azeilate, or other derivatives or salts of azelaic acid;
¨ andrographolide, in particular the extract of Andrographis paniculata
corresponding to the
INCI designation: Andrographis panieulata leaf extract;
¨ native ascorbic acid (vitamin C) or its derivatives, in particular the
derivatives corresponding
to the INCI designations: ascorbyl glucoside, ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl
methylsilanol
pectinate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate,
advantageously ascorbyl
glucoside;
¨ arbutin or a plant extract containing it, in particular bearberry extract
corresponding to the INCI
designation: Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract;
¨ glabridin or a plant extract containing it, in particular licorice
extracts corresponding to the
INCI designation: Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Glycyrrhiza frelata root
extract,
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
28
Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract;
¨ biomimetic peptides corresponding to the INCI designations: hexapeptide 2
and/or
nonapeptide-1;
¨ an aqueous extract of an algae called Palmaria palmata, in particular the
extract corresponding
to the INCI designation: Palmaria palmata extract;
¨ 4-n-butylresorcinol;
¨ vitamin PP, also called niacinamide or nicotinamide, and its derivatives;
¨ or mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise active
ingredients having healing
properties such as, for example, an antimicrobial agent chosen from active
ingredients corresponding
to the following INCI designations: copper sulfate, zinc sulfate, sodium
hyaluronate, Vitis vinifera
(grape) vine extract and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise active
ingredients having
sebocorrective, keratolytic, seboregulatory properties and/or anti-acne
activity, in order to allow the
formulation of solar screening agent products treating acne.
For example, the composition according to the invention may comprise an
antimicrobial agent chosen
from active ingredients corresponding to the following INCI designations:
propyl gallate, dodecyl
gallate, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, bakuchiol, dihydromyricetin, zinc
gluconate, salicylic acid and
mixtures thereof.
Therefore, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at
least one ingredient
chosen from the following list:
¨ an agent capable of screening agenting visible light, in particular blue
light;
¨ an extract of the algae Laminaria ochroleuca, Blidingia minima or
Laminaria saccharina;
¨ an extract of the Zanthoxylum alatum plant;
¨ panthenol;
¨ a cade wood extract;
¨ a Boldo extract;
¨ a meadowsweet extract;
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
29
¨ an extract of karanja ou l from Pongamia glabra;
¨ linear paraffins;
¨ ATP (adenosine-5 tri-phosphate), Gp4G (diguanosine tetraphosphate) or
Ap4A (diadenosine
tetraphosphate),
¨ an amino acid chosen from the group consisting of decarboxycarnosine,
glutamine and their
salts.
The composition according to the invention may further comprise adjuvants such
as those usually used
in the field of cosmetics, such as preservatives, antioxidants, complexing
agents, solvents, perfumes,
fillers, bactericides, electrolytes, odor absorbers, coloring materials or
even lipid vesicles. The choice
of these adjuvants, as well as their concentrations, must be determined in
order to prevent them from
modifying the properties and advantages sought for the composition of the
present invention.
The composition of the invention is for topical application and, more
particularly, for application to
the skin, lips, hair and/or mucous membranes. Thus, and in the context of the
invention, such a
composition is intended, in particular, for the protection of the skin and/or
integuments, in particular
the mucous membranes, lips and hair, against UV radiation.
The composition of the invention may be presented in ail the galenic forms
normally used in the
cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as, for example, but flot limited to,
in the forrn of an aqueous
solution optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type, a more or less
fluid 0/W or, conversely,
W/O emulsion, or a multiple emulsion such as, for example, a triple emulsion
(W/O/W or 0/W/O), or
even in the form of a vesicular dispersion of ionic (liposomes) and/or non-
ionic type, a two-phase
composition devoid of emulsifiers and gelling agents whose immiscible phases
separate during
storage, foam, stick, anhydrous oil, spray or mist.
In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a W/O
emulsion. In a
particular embodiment, the W/O emulsions according to the invention comprise
PEG-30
dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI), or polyglycery1-4
diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate as
emulsifiers. These raw materials are available from CRODA under the trade name
Cithrol DPHS and
from EVONIK under the name Isolan GPS, respectively.
In an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention is an
0/W emulsion. In a
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
30
particular embodiment, the 0/W emulsions according to the invention comprise
an emulsifier chosen
from the following group of compounds identified by their INCI designation:
sodium stearoyl
glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate and
C20-22 alkyl
phosphate/C20-C22 alkyl alcohols, tribehenin PEG-20 esters, C14-C22
alcohols/C12-20 alkyl
glucoside, cetearyl alcohol/coco-glucoside, polyglycery1-6 stearate,
polyglycery1-6 behenate and
mixtures thereof These raw materials are available from several suppliers. For
example, EMULGIN
SG raw materials (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate; supplier: BASF); EMULIUM 22
(INCI:
tribehenin PEG-20 esters; supplier GATTEFOSSE); SENSANOV WR (INCI: C20-22
alkyl
phosphate/C20-C22 alkyl alcohols; supplier: SEPPIC); MONTANOV L (INCI: C14-C22
alcohols/C12-20 alkyl glucoside), AMPHISOL K (INCI: potassium cetyl phosphate;
supplier: DSM),
MONTANOV 82 (INCI: cetearyl alcohol/coco-glucoside; supplier: SEPPIC); TEGOTm
Care PBS 6
MB (INCI: polyglycery1-6 stearate & polyglycery1-6 behenate; supplier: EVONIK)
may be used in
the compositions according to the invention.
According to another aspect, the invention relates to a composition as
described above to be used for
protection against ultraviolet solar radiation, in particular of wavelength
between 100 and 400 nm.
According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition
comprising:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI de
signations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least one organic UVB screening agent or a broad-spectrum organic
screening agent
absorbing both UVBs and UVAs;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent;
to be used to protect the skin, mucous membranes and/or integuments against UV
radiation.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the
invention is used to screening
agent UV radiation between 280 and 400 nm, in particular between 300 and 380
nm.
According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to a composition
comprising:
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
31
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least two organic screening agents chosen from organic UVB screening
agents and/or broad-
spectrum organic screening agents absorbing both UVBs and UVAs;
¨ -at least one organic UVA screening agent,
to be used as a UV screening agenting agent, in particular for the wavelength
spectrum between 280
and 400 nm, in particular between 300 and 380 nm.
According to a particular embodiment, the invention relates to the use of:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of those
corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene
glycine,
caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine
carboxylic acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine
carboxylic acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least two organic screening agents chosen from organic UVB screening
agents and/or broad-
spectrum organic screening agents absorbing both UVBs and UVAs; with
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent;
to be used for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.
The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process consisting of
applying to the skin and to the
integuments a composition comprising:
¨ at least one MAA as defined above, in particular chosen from the group
consisting of the
molecules corresponding to the INCI designations: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro
benzothiazine
carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid,
methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate, as well as,
optionally, the
compound corresponding to CAS number 2699128-33-9;
¨ at least two organic screening agents chosen from organic UVB screening
agents and/or broad-
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
32
spectrum organic screening agents absorbing both UVBs and UVAs;
¨ at least one organic UVA screening agent.
The manner in which the invention may be carried out and the resulting
advantages will become clearer
from the following exemplary embodiments, given by way of example but flot
limited thereto.
Exemplary embodiments of the invention
In the tables below, the percentages indicated are given in mass of product
relative to the total mass
of the composition.
Example I ¨ Solar emulsion
[Table 1]
Ingredients (INCI designation) Percentage
(%)
Aqua 52.70
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (organic UVA solar
10.00
screening agent)
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (broad-spectrum
3.50
organic solar screening agent)
Diethylhexyl butamido triazone (broad-spectrum organic solar
screening agent)
Methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
1.00
acid (MAA according to the invention)
Hexyl laurate
10.00
Propanediol
5.00
C12-15 alkyl benzoate
4.00
Dicapryly1 carbonate
3.9988
Polyglycery1-6 stearate
2.2875
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
33
Glycerin
2.00
Microcrystalline cellulose
1.32
1,2-hexanediol
1.25
C20-22 alkyl phosphate
1.10
C20-22 alcohols
0.90
Caprylyl glycol
0.25
Polyglycery1-6 behenate
0.2125
Sodium citrate
0.20
Cellulose gum
0.18
Sodium hydroxide
0.06
Xanthan gum
0.04
Tocopherol
0.0012
Example II ¨ Solar emulsion
[Table 2]
Ingredients (INCI designation)
Percentage (%)
Aqua
51.838
Homosalate (organic UVB solar screening agent)
9.00
Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene
6.30
Glycerin
5.00
Ethylhexyl salicylate (organic UVB solar screening agent)
4.50
Tribehenin PEG-20 esters
3.00
Silicon
3.00
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (organic UVA solar screening
2.70
agent)
C12-15 alkyl benzoate
2.50
Dimethicone
1.72
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
34
Butyloetyl salicylate
1.60
Methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine (MAA
1.00
according to the invention)
Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol
1.00
Caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine
1.00
carboxylic acid (MAA according to the invention)
Vp/eicosene copolymer
0.80
Cetearyl alcohol
0.80
C20-22 alkyl phosphate
0.55
PEU-100 stearate
0.50
Pentylene glycol
0.50
Glyceryl stearate
0.50
C20-22 alcohols
0.45
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
0.396
Polysilic on
0.28
1,2-hexanediol
0.25
Caprylyl glycol
0.25
Xanthan gum
0.20
Sodium citrate
0.20
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
0.05
Sodium hydroxide
0.042
Sorbitan isostearate
0.027
Polysorbate 60
0.027
Aminoethanesulfinie acid
0.02
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35
Example III ¨ Solar emulsion
[Table 3]
Ingredients (INCI designation)
Percentage (%)
Aqua
57.948
Homosalate (organic UVB solar screening agent)
9.00
Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene
6.30
Glycerin
5.00
Dibutyl adipate
5.00
Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (organic UVA solar screening
agent)
4.50
Ethylhexyl salicylate (organic UVB solar screening agent)
4.50
Potassium cetyl phosphate
3.00
Methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic
acid (MAA according to the invention)
1.00
Sodium stearoyl glutamate
1.00
Cetearyl alcohol
0.80
Pentylene glycol
0.50
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
0.396
Citric acid
0.302
Caprylyl glycol
0.25
1,2-hexanediol
0.25
Xanthan gum
0.20
Sorbitan isostearate
0.027
Polysorbate 60
0.027
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36
Example IV ¨ Solar emulsion
[Table 4]
Ingredients (INCI designation)
Percentage (%)
Aqua/water
48.70
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (organic UVA
solar screening agent)
10.00
Hexyl laurate
10.00
Propanediol
5.00
C12-15 alkyl benzoate
4.00
Diethylhexyl butamido triazone (broad-spectrum organic solar
screening agent)
4.00
Dicaprylyl carbonate
3.9988
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (broad-
3.500
spectrum organic solar screening agent)
Polyglycery1-6 stearate
2.2875
Glycerin
2.00
Microcrystalline cellulose
1.32
1,2-hexanediol
1.25
C20-22 alkyl phosphate
1.10
Methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexenyl ethyl glycinate
(MAA according to the invention)
1.00
C20-22 alcohols
0.90
Caprylyl glycol
0.25
Polyglycery1-6 behenate
0.2125
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
37
Sodium citrate
0.20
Cellulose gum
0.18
Sodium hydroxide
0.06
Xanthan gum
0.04
Tocopherol
0.0012
Example V- Measurement of the sun protection factor (SPF) obtained with
compositions
according to the invention
V-1 Objective of the study
The objective of the study was the development of compositions with a so-
called high sun protection
factor (SPF), i.e., with an SPF>20, incorporating organic UV screening agents
and MAAs according
to the invention.
V-2 Materials and methods
An in vitro method for measuring the sun protection factor was used. A first
UV absorption
measurement is carried out on a plate (molded PMMA plate or SB6 sandblasted
plate, Helioscreen)
covered with 15 1 of glycerin (white), which eliminates absorption by the
support.
For Formula 1 and Formula 2, the measurements are carried out using HD6 molded
plates, according
to the following protocol.
Then, the product studied is taken and deposited in 16 spots on the HD6 molded
PMMA plate from
Helioscreen (5*5cm). The weighed quantity is 32.5 mg, which corresponds to a
concentration of 1.3
mg/cm2. The sample is spread uniformly using a spreading robot (HD-
SPREADMASTER -
Helioscreen). The plate is then placed in the dark at room temperature for at
least 15 min. The plate is
introduced into the measuring chamber of the Labsphère UV 2000 S
spectrophotometer, to carry out
UV absorption measurements between 290 and 400 nm. It should be noted that a
measurement actually
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
38
corresponds to the average of 9 measurements (9 points on the PMMA plate are
measured).
In the cases of Formula 3 to Formula 7, the protocol is identical but SB6
sandblasted plates are used.
For these plates, the weighed quantity is 30 mg, which corresponds to a
concentration of 1.2 mg/cm2.
Theoretical SPFs are calculated for individual screening agents, because in
vitro SPF cannot be
measured under these conditions. The BASF simulator is used for these
measurements (Herzog et al.
2003).
The following formulas are created and tested:
[Table 5]
Percentage (%)
Ingredients (INCI designation) Formula 1 Formula
2
(formula
according to the
invention)
Water 52.70 48.70
Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl
10.00 10.00
benzoate (UVA screening agent)
Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl
triazine (broad-spectrum screening 3.50 3.50
agent)
Diethylhexyl butamido triazone (broad-
- 4.00
spectrum screening agent)
Methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine (MAA 1.00 1.00
according to the invention)
Hexyllaurate 10.00 10.00
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
39
Propanediol 5.00
5.00
C12-15 alkyl benzoate 4.00
4.00
Dicaprylyl carbonate 3.9988
3.9988
Polyglycery1-6 stearate 2.2875
2.2875
Glycerin 2.00
2.00
Microcrystalline cellulose 1.32
1.32
1,2-hexanediol 1.25
1.25
C20-22 alkyl phosphate 1.10
1.10
C20-22 alcohols 0.90
0.90
Caprylyl glycol 0.25
0.25
Polyglycery1-6 behenate 0.2125
0.2125
Sodium citrate 0.20
0.20
Cellulose gum 0.18
0.18
Sodium hydroxide 0.06
0.06
Xanthan gum 0.04
0.04
Tocopherol 0.0012
0.0012
Table 4: Comparative formulas containing broad-spectrum and UVA screening
agents
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
40
[Table 6]
Percentage ( /0)
Fia 3 Fia 4 Fla 5 Fia 6
Fia 7
Ingredients (formula
(formula
(INCI designation) according
according
to the to the
invention) invention)
Aqua
58.948 66.948 57.948 66.948 57.948
Homosalate (UVB solar
9.00 - 9.00 - 9.00
screening agent)
Ethylhexyl salicylate
(UVB solar screening
4.50 4.50 4.50 4.50 4.50
agent)
Butyl
methoxydibenzoylmetha
ne (UVA solar screening
4.50 4.50 4.50 4.50 4.50
agent)
Methoxyphenylimino
dimethylhexahydro
benzothiazine carboxylic
acid (1VIAA according to
- - - 1.00
1.00
the invention)
Methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene
glycine (1VIAA according
to the invention) - 1.00 1.00 1.00
1.00
Ethylhexyl
methoxycrylene 6.30 6.30 6.30 6.30
6.30
Glycerin 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
5.00
Dibutyl adipate 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00
5.00
Potassium cetyl phosphate 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00
3.00
Sodium stearoyl glutamate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
1.00
Cetearyl alcohol 0.80 0.80 0.80 0.80
0.80
Pentylene glycol 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
0.50
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
41
Hydroxyethyl
acrylate/sodium
acryloyldimethyl taurate
copolymer 0.396 0.396 0.396 0.396
0.396
Citric acid 0.302 0.302 0.302 0.302
0.302
Caprylyl glycol 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
0.25
1,2-hexanediol 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25
0.25
Xanthan gum 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20
0.20
Sorbitan isostearate 0.027 0.027 0.027 0.027
0.027
Polysorbate 60 0.027 0.027 0.027 0.027
0.027
Table 6: Comparative formulas containing UVB and UVA screening agents
1V-3 Results and discussion
The SPF (sun protection factor) conferred by the different layers is measured:
[Table 7]
Formula Number Average SPF
Standard
of plates
deviation
Theoretical SPF expected for the - 7.5 -
4.00% diethylhexyl butamido
triazone broad-spectrum screening
agent
Formulai 3 5.3
0.17
Formula 2 3 21.01
1.01
Table 7: SPF measurements of Formula 1 and Formula 2
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
42
[Table 8]
Formula Number Average SPF
Standard
of plates
deviation
Theoretical SPF expected for the 9% 4.6 -
homosalate UVB screening agent
Formula 3 3 18.62
0.64
Formula 4 3 12.5
0.54
Formula 5 3 24.11
1.49
Formula 6 3 11.73
1.57
Formula 7 3 25.93
1.40
Table 8: SPF measurements from Formula 3 to Formula 7
In the case of tests relating to broad-spectrum screening agents + UVA
screening agent, a very low
SPF was obtained for Formula 1 (Fla 1) containing an MAA according to the
invention (INCI
designation: methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine), a UVA screening
agent and a
broad-spectrum screening agent.
The addition of a second broad-spectrum screening agent made it possible to go
from an SPF value of
5 to an SPF value of 21, while the theoretical expected contribution for the
broad-spectrum screening
agent was 7.5.
For tests relating to UVB +UVA screening agents, the addition of a UVB
screening agent in Formula
4, containing an MAA according to the invention (INCI designation:
methoxyphenylimino
dimethylcyclohexene glycine), makes it possible to go from an SPF value of
12.5 at an SPF value of
24.11. The addition of the same screening agent in the same concentration in
Formula 6, containing
another MAA according to the invention (INCI designation: methoxyphenylimino
dimethylhexahydro
benzothiazine carboxylic acid) makes it possible to go from an SPF value of
11.73 to an SPF value of
25.93.
CA 03222853 2023- 12- 14
43
The expected theoretical contribution for the 9% homosalate UVB screening
agent was 4.6.
The comparison between tests 3 and 5, which differ only by the presence of an
MAA according to the
invention, validates the sun protection amplifier function of the MAA (SPF
18.62 - >24.11).
In conclusion, with an equal protection index, the combinations of screening
agents and MAA
according to the invention make it possible to obtain products characterized
by a good protection index
(SPF > 20), while limiting the introduction of organic screening agents into
the formulas thanks to the
sun protection amplifier action of MAA.
Thus, the present invention makes it possible to reduce the quantity and
concentration of organic
screening agents necessary in a sunscreen product, while maintaining a high
sun protection factor, i.e.,
greater than 20. The use of MAAs as anti-UV agents, in combination with
organic screening agents,
is an eco-compatible solution, eco-responsible for the environment and safe
for humans.
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