Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
1079901
The invention relates to a resilient interlining - chest piece
combination for textile cloths which is steam press formable, dryclean
reslstant and dimensionally stable.
It is known to use reinforcing shaping interlining materials consist-
ing of woven or non-woven fabrics in suits, coats and jackets. In jackets,
the dimensional stability of the chest area is usually reinforced by means of
an additional chest piece. The chest piece has to be sewn in, and this is a
drawback in a field in which interlining materials with heat effected
adhesives are in common use as a labour-reducing expedient. Such interlining
materials are merely ironed into place using a fixing press. The traditional
sewn chest piece has other important disadvantages. The working process on
the front part of the finished clothing is relatively difficult and thus
expensive. Complications arise from difficulties of fashioning which render
very exact work necessary.
Attempts have been made to operate without the sewable chest piece
and to replace it by a fixable interlining with several sections in which
the top part is reinforced and is separated from the lighter, textile-soft
lower section by means of a transition region. Such one piece interlining
materials are commercially available. Although they have advantages over
the mere sewn-on chest piece, they still are not fully satisfactory.
Cutting must always be made in the weft direction or in the transverse
direction, and as result large unusable remnants are produced. In the
lapel area, expensive reverse cutting is necessary and the transition at
the edge of the lapel area leads to an unsmooth lapel in the article.
Moreover, it is very difficult to provide s~ufficient shapability
to the top part so that working of the chest piece is possible without
having an unsmooth surface. As a result, multiple section interlinings
with an additional chest piece or an additional chest piece cover have been
introduced.
Mutually compatible woven interlining materials with an additional
chest piece have been offered with which by means of special lenos, fixing
- 1 - ~
107~9~1
of interlining and chest piece to a number of fabrics has been made
possible. This double-adhering or fixing, is intended to be acheived by
lroning the interllning material onto a cloth and at the same time or fiub-
sequently fixing the chest piece in the chest revers or lapel zone which
will thereby not loosen during wear or drycleaning. It has, however,
transpired that when using most interlining materials and chest pieces,
blisters result during wear and drycleaning, because of loosening of the
adhesive in the double fixing sectors,which does not occur in the identical
interlining material if single fixed. The use of special lenos at least makes
it possible that some cloths can be double fixed without subsequent damage.
Difflculties result, however, when the thermal shrinkages of the cloth and
the interlining material are not comparable. This is the case with many
fabrics. Therefore, frequent blistering is observed through wear and dry-
cleaning.
It might be thought that nonwoven fabrics would not tend to
loosening of adheslve and blistering because of their higher e1ongation and
- more resilient behavior even in differential shrinkage between interlining
and cloth. Thus nonwoven fabric should enable fabrics with a different
shrinkage to be double-fixable. In the past, however, this has not been
possible to achieve for other reasons or has led to unsuitable products.
When soft, textile interlining materials and/or similar chest piece
materials bonded over the whole surface with bonding agent are double fixed
to cloth, splitting occurs in the nonwoven fabric during drycleaning, even
when the same single fixed ironed-on nonwoven fabric does not show splitting
after repeated drycleaning. The double-fixing zone, however, has a non-
textile- and plywood-like appearance. A similarly negative picture results
when,instead of using a bonding agent,the whole surface is adhered with a
bonding fiber which is itself more dryclean resistant than the bonding
a~ent. Here, too, a similar effect occurs. If an uncalendered nonwoven
fabric with bonding fiber bond is used, the danger of splitting is still
high. If, however, the nonwoven fabric is calendered, the double-fixed
1079901
area is too plywood~like and non-textile.
The present disclosure meets these problems in providing a double
laminate for fabrics consisting of a chest piece and interlinlng materlal
which is both resilient, dryclean resistant and formable in a steam press
and which also retains its shape during wear and drycleaning. Formability
defines the deformation which takes place during the ironing into shape of
the chest piece on the forming press. The chest piece deforms to desired
shape as a result of the form predetermined by the moulding insert or model
in the press. Thus, the consistency of shape of each front part of the
finished garment is achieved.
It has now been discovered that such an article best comprises an
interlining - chest piece combination for cloths in which both the interlin-
ing material and the chest piece consist of a resilient, partially prefixed
(and also resilient bonding agent containing) nonwoven fabric of staple
and/or endless fibers which is provided with a suitable fusible adhesive,
whereby the interlining - chest piece combination is double-fixable and
deformable in a steam press,is drycleaning solvent resistant, and is stable
in shape.
The interlining can be fixed to the area to which it is to be attached
with an electro press, whereas the chest piece on which an adhesive is
applied in a pattern is formable and fixable with the aid of a steam heated
forming press. Thus a resilient, steam press formable and drycleaning
resistant, blister-free three-layer laminate of interlining, chest piece and
cloth results. The interlining - chest piece combination can be used with
essentially all known types of cloth.
The fixing of the front part to the interlining and the subsequent
further treatment is effected in the usual known manner. From this point the
method of manufacture differs, however. The new chest piece is cut out in
accordance with the model but it is prepared without tucks and is laid onto
the front part press. During the ironing into shape, the chest piece fixing
takes place, at the same time the chest piece deforms without tension even
: 107990~
in the shaping which is predetermlned by both the model and the press. Thus
the complete uniformity of each front part in breast and facing is guaranteed.
The special preparation of the chest piece, for instance closing tucks,
sewing on bands or the like and then placing the chest piece is not necessary.
Neither a chest piece covering nor shoulder supports nor an additional lapel
section are necessary in the treatment. The interlining does not have to be
cut in the lapel area as it is fixed right up to the edge.
The interlining - chest piece combination can be produced of differ-
ent materials in accordance with the intended use. Suitable in this case
are the following nonwoven fabrics:
a) Nonwoven fabrics, which contain drycleaning compound resistant
bonding fibers, and partially heat welded by calendering in
point-, rod- or rhombic shapes.
b) Nclded fiber nonwovcn fabrics oolvcnt weldcd by partial
dissolution of the fibres with, for instance, polyacrylonitrile
with tetramethylsulfoxide, as a printing paste, for example,
containing the solvent.
c) Nonwoven fabrics mechanically bonded, such as by needling.
d) Partial binder reinforced nonwoven fabrics, the bonding agent
being printed or sprayed. The bonding agent should have a high
resistance to drycleaning solvents. Polyurethane is particularly
suitable.
In addition to the above-described prefixing, the nonwoven fabrics
are also bonded with a resilient bonding agent. Suitably this subsequent
fixing is carried out by separate discrete application of the resilient
bonding agent. Suitable resilient bonding agents are crosslinkable poly-
acrylicacid esters, budadiene acrylonitrile or budadiene styrene copolymeri-
sates and appropriate polyurethanes.
In accordance with onc aspcct of the invention, there is provided
a combined interlining-chest piece for attachment to cloth which comprises;
an interlining comprising an at least partially prefixed piece of
non-woven fabric having a first face for attachment to said cloth,
-4-
~",,~J
1079901
a chest piece integral with said interlining and nlso comprising an
at least partially prefixed non-woven fabric piece and having a second face
for attachment to said cloth,
said interlining and said chest piece being integrally attached
together on respective sides opposite to said first and second faces,
said non-woven fabric being selected from staple and continuous fibres,
a resilient bonding agent in said interlining and said chest piece
fixing said respective non-woven fabric,
and a thermal adhesive on said first and second faces for thermally
adhering said combined interlining-chest piece to said cloth.
In one preferred embodiment, the prefixed non-woven fabrics are
provided with a thickened latex printing paste. They can additionally be
dyed with pigments. The printing pastes may be printed through the nonwoven
I
~ -4a-
0~9901
fabric and thus penetrate through the entire nonwoven fabric, or only pene-
trate partially into the interior of the material. Both methods are satis-
factory.
In another embodiment a prefixed nonwoven fabric is subsequently
fixed by spraying its surface with a resilient bonding agent. In this
instance it is desirable that the bonding agent not penetrate deeper into the
fabric than about 1/3 or 1/2 of the thickness. This results in part of the
fabric being more or less unbonded and thus freely movable portions remain
in the fabric cross section. Particularly with only slightly prefixed
nonwovens it may be suitable instead of the discrete application of the
bonding agent to effect impregnation or soaking with the resilient binder
The content of dry bonding agent in this case approximates
5 to 20% of the fiber weight.
It is important that the nonwoven fabrics which are suggested for
the production of the interlining - chest piece combinations be both pre-
fixed and subsequently fixed with the resilient bonding agent. If nonwoven
fabrics without additional resilient bonding agent are employed, for the
production of interlining - chest piece combinations as here defined, the
elasticity is unsatisfactory and the shape retaining ability insufficient.
Although all the described combinations of prefixing and binder
application are possible both for the interlining material and for the chest
piece, preneedled nonwoven fabrics are preferably suited only for the chest
piece: Their unsmooth surface and the high specific volume renders them less
suitable as interlining material. By suitable choice of weights, fiber
fineness and amounts of bonding agent, nonwoven fabrics can be adapted for
the interlining and for the chest piece as required. It should be noted that
the interlining should have less shaping ability but a smoother surface than
the chest piece. This can be achieved by means of a lower weight of the
fiber and a finer fiber mix, whereas the chest piece requires higher weights
and fibers that are as highly crimped as possible with a somewhat higher
fibre titer, for instance 3 to 6 dtex.
10799~
In many instances, it is suitable that the chest piece be flattened
at the edges 30 that no abrupt changes with resultant obvious marking is
produced in the finished cloth.
-- 6
