Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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HAIR CONDITIONING COMPOSITION CONTAINING
CATIONIC POLYMER AND AMPHOTERIC SURFACTANT AND
METHOD FOR USE
This invention relates to compositions that are
useful in conditioning hair and to processes for condi-
tioning hair that employ such compositions.
It is known in the prior art to treat hair with
certain quaternary amine compounds for the purpose of
conditioning hair i.e. to improve its combability, manage-
ability, softness, etc. Although such prior art composi-
tions have proven to be effective in varying degrees, one
of the chief drawbacks has been the fact that the effect
has not been long-lasting i.e. it does not survive repeated
shampooings.
It has now been found that hair conditioning compo-
sitions may be provided which are relatively stable to
repeated shampooings by formulating such compositions so
that they consist essentially of an aqueous solution
containing a cationic polymer, an amphoteric detergent
and sufficient acid to give the aqueous solution a pH
in the range of about 1 to 6.
It is accordingly an object of the present inven-
tion to provide a hair conditioning composition that is
stable to repeated hair shampooings.
It is also an object of the present invention to
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provide a process for treating hair using the aforesaid
composition which has a conditioning effect on the hair
that is relatively stable to repeated shampooings.
It is a further object of this invention to provide
a composition of the aforesaid type which consists essen-
tially of an aqueous acidic solution containing a cationic
polymer and an amphoteric detergent and to provide a
process for treating hair with such a composition.
Other and more detailed objects of this invention
will be apparent from the following description and claims.
The cationic polymers that are useful for the pur-
poses of the present invention can vary somewhat. Two
classes of polymers that have been found to be particularly
useful are those sold under the trade names MERQUAT*te.g.
MERQUAT 100) and ONAMER*(e.g. ONAMER M). The former are
polymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride and are
probably mixtures of compounds having the following
formula:
(A) (B)
~ CH2~ CH21 CH2~
I FH fH I _ CH2 - CH fH
\ / \ + /
H3C CH3 n CH3 CH3 n
These vary in molecular weight. Ordinarily, however, the
polymers of this class that will be employed have a molecular
weight in the range of from 4,000 to 550,000 and preferably
in the range of from 20,000 to 100,000.
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The ONAMæR type polymers that are useful for the
present purposes are poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium
chloride)-~,~-bis(triethanol ammonium chlorides) that may
be described by the general formula:
OH-CH2CH2 r ~CH3 1 /CH2CH2OH
CH2CH2 / N -N -CH2-CH = CH- CH2 ~ N ~ CH2CH2OH
OH-CH2CH2 _CH3 Cl CH2CH2OH
The molecular weights of these polymers that may be employed
herein can also vary somewhat. For the most part, however,
this will be in the range of from about 800 to 5000 and
preferably, in the range of from about 1000 to 3000.
The quantity of cationic polymer contained in the
present aqueous solutions will depend on the particular
results that are desired. Ordinarily, this will consti-
tute between about 0.4% to about 10% by weight based
on the total weight of the aqueous composition with the
optimal range being between about 1~ to about 5% on the
same weight basis.
The second essential component of the compositions
of this invention are the amphoteric detergents. A
characteristic of these materials is that many assume the
character of an anionic or a cationic surfactant compound
depending upon the pH of the solution in which it may be
contained. There are a number of amphoteric detergents
that are suitable for use in the present invention.
However, two classes of detergents have been found to be
especially effective. The first class can be defined by
the formula:
~, q .
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CH2COONa
R C C 2 2 2coo
N CH2
CH2
in which R is a long chain fatty radical containing from
10 to 18 carbon atoms. A typical example of such a compound
or compounds is the case in which R represents coconut
fatty radicals. A material of this character is sold under
the trade name MIRANOL C2MSF and is described in the CTFA
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) under the name
AMPHOTERIC-2.
A second class of amphoteric detergents that is
particularly effective for the purposes of the present
invention can be defined by the formula:
IV R- NH - CH2 - CH2 -COOH
wherein R is a long chain fatty alkyl group having from 10
to 18 carbon atoms. An example of such a detergent is
marketed under the trade name DERIPHAT 170C in which the
R in formula IV is a mixture of lauryl and myristyl fatty
alkyl groups. This material is described in the CTFA
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) as Lauraminopropionic
Acid.
The quantity of amphoteric detergent which will be
contained in the composition of this invention will vary
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somewhat again depending on the economics and the results
sought. However, usually this will be in the range of from
about 0.2 to about 20% by weight and ideally in the range
of from about 1% to about 5~ by weight based on the total
weight of the composition.
Another essential feature of the present composition
is that the solution have an acid pH that is a pH that
falls in the range of from about 1 to 6. Any of a variety
of acids may be used in adjusting the pH of these composi-
tions to the proper level, hydrochloric, citric, and
phosphoric acids were found to be particularly useful and
suitable.
Although the cationic polymers, the amphoteric
detergents and the acids mentioned above are the essential
active ingredients in the present compositions, the compo-
sitions contemplated by the present invention may also
contain other ingredients which may serve to improve the
organoleptic character of the product or its ease of
application. Thus, it is within the purview of this
invention to incorporate in the present compositions such
materials as fragrances, thickening agents, fragrance
solubilizers, etc.
Aside from the absolute quantities of the cationic
polymer and amphoteric detergent contained in the present
compositions, it has been found that their conditioning
effectiveness is highly dependent upon the "molar ratio"
of polymer to detergent. The term "molar ratio" as used
herein is designated by the letter a andis defined as:
a = [ Polymer (mer) ]
. .
~ Detergent (mol) ]
In the above expression and elsewhere in the specification and
claims, the term rPolymer (mer)] refers to the number of molS
of the repeating units of the polymer bearing a single positive
- charge contained in the composition. The term [Detergent (mol)]
in the aforesaid expression and elsewhere is defined as the
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number of mols of detergent contained in the composition. The
ratio ~ may vary somewhat. Ordinarily, this will be in the
range of Crom about .2 ~o abou~ ~ ana pre~erably in the range
of from about l to about 2.
The compositions of this invention may be applied to
hair in any suitable manner. One typical procedure involves
applying the conditioning composition, such as described in
Example 1 below to freshly dyed or bleached hair, working
it gently into the hair mass, leaving the said composition
on hair for one to three minutes and rinsing the hair thor-
oughly with water prior to combing and drying. Amount of
the conditioning composition applied to hair may vary but,
in general, should not be less than l~ of the hair weight
and does not need to exceed 20% of the hair weight.
It is generally visualized that the compositions of
this invention will be applied to hair that has previously
been given a treatment that leaves the hair somewhat alkaline.
Typical of such treatment are treatments with oxidation hair dye
systems ~r bleaching systems. One such treat~ent involves mixing
a dye base containing among other things the oxidation dye inter-
mediates with an aqueous vehicle containing an oxidizing agent
such as hydrogen peroxide and then shampooing this mixture into
the hair. These mixtures before being applied to thehair usually
have an alkaline pH e.g. in the range of from 7 to 12 and pre-
ferably 8 to ll. Another such treatment involves for example
treating the hair with an alkaline bleaching solution which con-
tains the usual oxidizing agent (e.g. agueous hydrogen peroxide),
boosters (e.g. potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate),
alkalizing agents, etc.
When the compositions of this invention are applied to
hair that has been previously treated as indicated above the com-~
bination of amphoteric detergent and cationic polymer precipi-
tates out on the hair forming a conditioning complex that is
highly resistant to repeated shampooings.
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The pH of the hair conditioning compositions that are
employed in the present invention will be selected to some
extent on the basis of the alkalinity of the hair to be
treated and the relative amounts of cationic polymers and
amphoteric detergent. In general, the pH is selected so
that after the composition is applied to the hair and comes
under the influence of the alkalinity of the hair that the pH
of the composition is increased by approximately 1 pH unit above
which t~ pre~ipitation of the complex takes place. Generally,
under these conditions the optimum precipitation of the condit-
ioning complex appears to take place.
The following Examples are given to further illus~rate the
present invention. It is to be understood, however, that the
invention is not limited thereto.
EXAMPLE 1
Ingredient % by Wt.
*Merquat 100 2.00
**Miranol C2MSF 4.00
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00
Phosphoric acid1.60
Fragrance 0.10
Water QS to 100.00
pH 4.5
* CTFA name Quaternium-40+
**CTFA name Amphoteric-2
EXAMPLE 2
Ingredient % by Wt.
***Onamer M 1.00
Miranol C2MSF 2.00
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00
Phosphoric acid0.90
Fragrance 0.10
Water QS to 100.00
pH 4.0
*** poly(dimethyl butenyl ammonium chloride)-~,~ -bis(tri-
ethanol ammonium chloride) Av. M.W. about 1000-2000
Conditioning formulations of this invention are not only
effective in improving wet and dry combing of hair, imparting
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manageability, softness, etc. but unlike the conventional
products, their conditioning effects are stable to repeated
shampooings. This conditioning durability is illustrated
in the following experiment, the dyed hair being used as the
test substrate.
Swatches of intact Caucasian hair were colored with
Composition A below for 20 minutes, in accordance with the
procedure of the instructions. The ratio of the amount of
solution to weight of hair, temperature and quantity of
water used for rinsing after treatment, were all maintained
so as to simulate conditions on the head. After rinsing,
the conditioning material of Example 1 above was applied
to hair (0.1 g of each product per 1 g of hair), it was
worked in for 30 seconds and left on the hair for additional
1 minute after which time the hair was rinsed and combed.
The combing measurements were performed by the procedure
described in the paper by Garcia and Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet.
Chem. 27, 379-398, 1976). The test essentially involves
passing of a hair tress through a comb attached to a
strain gauge which in turn is connected to a recording
device. Work is expended to accomplish the passage of the
hair tress through the comb, and this work, read off the
integrator, is the objective measure of combing ease/
difficulty.
Having determined the combing properties of hair
after coloring and conditioning treatments, the swatches
were shampooed with Herbal Essence Shampoo three times
and again tested for combing. The shampooing procedure
involved application of the shampoo (0.1 g per 1 g of hair),
working it into the hair over the period of 60 seconds to
produce a copious lather and rinsing the shampooed hair for
at least 1 minute. Each shampoo step consisted of two
lathering/rinsing sequences.
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The results of combability tests are summarized in
Table I below. In the Table, the "Work of Combing" is
expressed in units of work (gcm). The higher the values,
the harder was it to comb the hair.
COMPOSITION A
% by Wt. based on total
weight of com~æosition
p-Phenylenediamine 0.35
N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-
phenylenediamine sulfate 0.18
Resorcinol 0.31
l-Naphthol 0.08
Oleic acid 7.50
Propylene glycol 4.40
Isopropanol 4.35
Hydrogen peroxide 3.00
*Octoxynol-l+ 3.50
Sulfated Castor Oil 1.50
Ammonium hydroxide 1.15
*Cocamide DEA 0.75
Fragrance 0.15
Sodium sulfite 0.05
EDTA 0.01
Water QS to 100.00
pH 9.8
*CTFA name (See CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary,
2nd Edition, 1977)
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TABLE I
Work of ('ombing
(l) (2) (3) (4) (5)
After (l) plus (2) followed (1) plus (4)followe~
5Dyeing Conventional by 3 shampoos Formula- by 3 sham-
Conditioner tion from poos
Table I
2800 625 7350 346 769
The following procedures illustrate the use of the
conditioning agent of this invention after a hair bleaching
treatment. It has been found that treatment of bleached
hair with the present compositions also improves its feel
and combability.
Two 3 gram swatches of brown Caucasian hair were
bleached for 1 hour at 30C with 20 grams of the following
bleach composition.
COMPOSITION B
% by Wt. based on total
weight of composition
Potassium persulfate 11.0
Ammonium persulfate 6.0
Sodium stearate 3.5
Sodium metasilicate 3.5
Hydrogen peroxide 3.5
Cab-O-Sil+ 2.5
EDTA + 0 5
Methocel 0.8
Water QS to 100.0
pH 10.3
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After bleaching, the hair was thoroughly rinsed and
one of the bleached tresses was treated for 3 minutes
with 1.5 g of the following composition:
EXAMPLE 3
Ingredient % by Wt.
Merquat 100 2.0
*Deriphat 170C 2.4
Benzyl alcohol 3.5
Phosphoric acid (85%) 1.1
Water QS to 100.0
* Lauraminopropionic acid
The other tress was exposed for the same length of
time to a conventional conditioner. Both tresses were
thoroughly rinsed and found to be soft and silky to feel
and easy to comb. Both tresses were then shampooed once
and compared again. This time the conventionally conditioned
tress felt sticky, rubbery and difficult to comb; while
the tress that had been treated with conditioning compo-
sition given in Example 3 retained the softness of feel
and ease of combing. These conditioning attributes were
still much in evidence for this tress after as many as
4 shampooings.
Although the invention has been described with
reference to specific forms thereof, it will be understood
that many changes and modifications may be made without
departing from the spirit of this invention.
