Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
~2866
The present invention relates to warp pile
fabrics comprising a ground weave of warp yarns crossed with
weft yarns on which, on the reverse side of the weave, are
situated the tops of the loops of pile yarns, whose branches
pass through the thickness of the ground weave, between the
warp and weft yarns, and extend, at the front of the ground
weave, over a certain length to produce the pile effect.
Such a structure is well-known but has certain
disadvantages. For example, with the majority of known
methods of manufacture of pile fabrics, the secur~ing of
the pile in the ground weave is determined by various factors,
such as: weft count, warp count, determination of blend and
nature of yarns, type and length of fibres, finishing of the
.
-~ fabric (especially impregnation of the reverse side) and
patterns of weave. The decision of choice in weaves is
therefore limited by numerous imperatives and piles are in
general only very dense and relatively heavy.
A method of manufacture of pile is already known
from USA Pat. Spec. ~o. 2,252,433, in which it is attempted
to secure the pile yarn loops in the ground weave by means
of leno warp yarns. However, in this process, normal warp
yarns are employed as leno yarns and these, in fact, form
the ground weave, so that these leno yarns simply cover over,
or sit astride the tops of the pile yarn loops on the reverse
side of the fabric. It is therefore a disadvantage of this
method that it does not secure the loops of pile yarn, in
relation to the ground weave, with a suitable degree of
strength. In order that the pile yarns may be held most
firmly in the ground weave, (this, indeed, only within the
limitations set by this process), it would be necessary to
" : "
-- 1 --
866
produce the densest possible weave, which would, of course,
depart from the object of the method, i.e. to offer a pile
which is light and well-aerated.
The object of the invention is to produce a warp
pile fabric which does not suffer from these disadvantages and
limitations of known pile fabrics as described above.
According to the invention, the parts of each -
pile yarn loop adjacent the tops of the loops are firmly
pinched against a warp yarn of the ground weave by an extra
gauze-weave warp yarn, referred to as "leno yarn", which
forms a first loop, the top of which lies on the same weft
yarn of the ground weave as the top of the pile yarn loop and
against this pile yarn, but on the front side of the ground
weave, and a second loop, the top of which lies on an adjacent
weft yarn, on the other side of the warp yarn and also on
the front side of the ground weave, the two aforesaid loops
of leno yarn being interconnected by an intermediate part
of this yarn which passes under the warp yarn, on the reverse
side of the ground weave.
Due to this particular structure, each pile
yarn loop is, in a way, knotted between three yarns, i.e.
a weft yarn, a warp yarn and a leno yarn, so that it is most
securely held in the ground weave and is thus much more resis-
tant to rupture than pile yarn loops of known pile fabrics
which are simply squeezed hetween the warp and weft yarns
of the ground weave, or else the tops of which are simply
covered over with one of the warp yarns of the ground weave
to which a leno has been added, that is to say, without the
knotting effect given by the leno yarn of the pile according
to the invention. This special and novel feature renders
~2~
impregnation of the reverse side of the fabric unnecessary
and, in addition, makes it possible to produce pile fabrics
which are as aerated as could be desired, that is to say,
in which the width of the stitches in the ground weave is
as large as one could wish, and in which the interval
between two adjacent tufts of pile yarn can be chosen at
will since each pile yarn loop is individually and very
efficiently knotted by a leno yarn to a weft yarn and
against a warp yarn.
In a fabric according to the inventlon, the leno ;
yarn interlaces warp yarns and weft yarns in a manner similar
to that of the leno yarns employed in the weaving of gauze
~; and, in addition, it anchors the pile yarn. As will be
seen hereinafter, on this principle, it is possible to
producè a whole variety of pile fabrics according to the
manner in which one combines the different elements it
contains.
The invention further relates to a method of
manufacture of this pile fabric, wherein a ground weave is
formed from warp yarns crossed with weft yarns, incorporating
therein pile yarns inserted periodically below the path of
insertion of the weft yarns, in such a manner as to form
loops, the tops of which lie against weft yarns on the
reverse side of the ground weave, and periodically above
the path of insertion of the weft yarns, so that the bran-
ches of the pile yarn loops pass through the thickness of
the ground weave, between the warp and the weft yarns, and
extend, on the front side of the weave, over a certain
length, to produce the effect of pile, the pile yarn loops
being secured by gauze-weave warp yarns. ~he method of the
~2~6
invention is characterised in that, during the weaving
operation, axtra warp yarns called "leno yarns" are employed
and positioned in successive positions so that they rise
in relation to the ground weave warp yarns, each alterna-
tely on one side and then on the other of one of said
warp yarns, and are themselves above the weft yarns at the
moment these latter are inserted, the weft yarns are in-
serted, a flrst loop is formed in each leno yarn the top
' ofwhich lies on the same weft yarn of the ground weave
as the top of a pile yarn loop, but on the front of the
ground weave, and a second loop is formed in each leno yarn
, . -
the top of which lies on an adjacent weft yarn on the front
side of the ground weave, while the intermediate part'of
'khe leno yarn, which links the first to the second loop
is passed snakelike under the respective warp yarn, on the
reverse side of the ground weave.
It is manifest that this general method lends
itself to various methods of execution corresponding to
the various kinds of pile fabric manufactured. It is
applicable not only to pile fabric woven directly as single-
cloth, but also to that produced by the double-cloth
'method, with subsequent separation of the two cloths by cutt-
ing the parts of the pile yarns which link them together.
Finally, the invention also relates to a loom
for weaving the warp pile in double-cloth in order to carry
out this rnethod. This loom, which is of the type comprising,
for each cloth, a harness with heddle frames for the warp
yarns of the ground weave and for the pile yarns, is charac-
terised in that the harness also comprises, for each of the
two cloths, at least one frame with fixed heddles, and a
~2866
system of mobile heddle frames with independent mcvement,
for the formation of a leno by means of an extra leno yarn
for the purpose of knotting'the pile yarns in the ground
weave formed by said warp yarns and weft yarns.
In the accompanying drawings:
Fig. 1 is a longitudinal section, showing a
first method of producing pile fabric according to the
invention, with pile yarn loops in V-formation,
Fig. 2 is a bottom plan view of the pile of Fig.
10 1,
Figs. 3 and 4 show, in longitudinal section and
., .
in bottom plan view thereof respectively, a second method
of producing pile, with double-cloth pile and pile yarn
loops in V-formation:
Figs. S and 6 show, in longitudinal section and
in bottom plan view thereof respectively, a third method,
with double-cloth pile with pile yarn loops in V-formation
on both sides of the same warp yarn of the ground weave,
Figs. 7 and 8 show, in longitudinal section
and in bottom plan view thereof respectively, a fourth
method of producing double-cloth pil~ with pile yarn loops
in U-formation,
Figs. 9 and 10 show, in longitudinal section
and in bottom plan view thereof respectively, a fifth method
of producing double-cloth pile with pile yarn loops in W-
formation,
Figs. 11 and 12 show, in longitudinal section and
in bottom plan view thereof respectively, a sixth method
of producing double-cloth pile, with pile yarn loops in
W-formation, successively on one and on t'he other side
~11 52~6~
of a pair of warp yarns of the ground weave,
Figs. 13 and 14 show the main part of a loom
for the manufacture of a single-cloth pile according to the
invention, diagrammatically in profile and in two different
positions, and
Figs. 15 and 16 show the main part of a loom
for the manufacture of a double-cloth pile according to
the invention, diagrammatically in profile and in two
different positions.
The portion of warp pile according to the in-
ventlon, shown in longitudinal section in Fig. 1 and from
beneath in Fig. 2, comprises a ground weave F composed of
~; warp yarns, e.g. Cl, C2 and weft yarns, e.g. Tl, T2, loops
of pile yarn P, and a leno yarn t.
The top of each pile yarn loop P lies against the
~. :
lower side of a weft yarn Tl; that~is to say it~appears
on the reverse side of the finished weave. Along one
particular warp yarn Cl, loops of pile yarn P are formed
only on the weft yarns Tl which are of odd number . The
branches of the pile yarn loops~P pass through the thickness
of the ground weave F, between the warp and weft yarns,
and extend, on the front slde~of~the ground weave F, over
~; a certain length 1, to produce the pile effect. The leno
yarn t forms a first loop, the top o~which lies on the
same weft yarn Tl of the ground weave as the top of ~he
pile yarn loop P but on the front, not on the reverse side
of the ground weave F, and a second loop, the top of which
lies on an adjacent weft yarn, in this case on a weft yarn
T2 of even number, also on the front side of the ground
weave.
~;2l366
The first loop of the leno yarn t lies against the pile
yarn, that is to say on one side of the warp yarn Cl,
whilst its second loop lies on the other side of this warp
yarn, so that, in the example in question, in order that
this second leno yarn loop cannot return to the first side
of th~s warp yarn Cl under the tension of the leno yarn
; (which would completely destroy the knotting effect desired),
:~ the second leno yarn loop passes beyond the following warp
yarn C2 situated on said other side of the first warp
10 yarn Cl. Thus, against a weft yarn T2 of even number, a
second leno yarn loop passes to the front, whilst the
following warp yarn C2, mentioned above, passes to the
reverse side and locks said second leno yarn loop at the
side of the first warpyarn Cl opposite to the side of this
' warp yarn, along which lies the first leno yarn loop which
pinches the plle yarn against the warp yarn Cl. The first
: ~ and 6econd leno yarn loops are linhed:together by an in-
termediate part of this yarn which~passes under the warp :~
concerned (and also under the adjacent yarn C2 in the pre-
sent example) at the reverse side of the ground weave F.
: ~ It will be readily understood that, due to the
presence of the leno yarn t incorporated into the weave
in the manner described and illustrated, each loop of pile
: yarn P is firmly knotted on a weft yarn against a warp
yarn, so that it has become completely integral with the
ground weave F, even though the construction of this latter
is not of a kind to provide a stron~ fabric by itself.
The above description with reference to Figs. 1
and 2 corresponds to a pile produced as single cloth,
employing rods 11 for the formation of the upper, visible
-- 7 --
8~i6
loops of pile yarn P. If these rods do not have a cutting
edge, they leave the pile yarn loops closed, as shown in
the right-hand part of Fig. 1, and the product is called
uncut pile, whereas, if they carry an upper cutting edge,
they c~nip the tops of the upper pile yarn loops, as shown
at the left-hand side of the figure. Nevertheless, this
does not effect the securing of the pile yarn loops to
the ground weave by the leno yarn.
The same structure might q~lite easily be adopted
in a double-cloth type of pile construction, as shown in
Figs. 3 and 4, Fig. 3 being a longitudinal section through
the combination of the two cloths before their separation
by cutting the pile yarn portions P which connect them,
and Fig. 4 being a corresponding plan view, i.e. showing
the lower cloth from the bottom after cutting. In these
figures, the same reference numerals are employed as in
Figs. 1 and 2, so that the same explanation can be applied
to the lower cloth 21 as was given for the single cloth
of Figs. 1 and 2, the only difference being that, instead
of passing over rods, the upper piLe yarn loops P pass
over weft yarns Of the ground weave of the upper cloth 22.
The same description can be applied to the upper cloth,
provided top and bottom are reversed in the explanations
given with reference to Figs. 1 and 2.
In the embodiments just described in Figs. 1
to 4, it can be said that the pile yarn loops P present a
V-shaped configuration. In Figs. 5 and 6 a further method
of execution is illustrated, having pile yarns in a V-shape,
which is applicable more especially to heavy yarns. This
embodiment differs from those described above in that the
r : i,
8 ~
~2~66
pile yarn loops P, on two successive weft yarns Tl of odd
number, are situated alternately on one side and on the
other of the same warp yarn Cl, in this case, the leno
yarn t snakes over the reverse side of the ground weave,
embracing only the single warp yarn Cl, instead of the
two warp yarns Cl and C2 in the foregoing examples.
Figs. 7 and 8 show a method of execution in
which the pile yarns P show a U-shaped configuration, due
to the fact that each pile yarn loop P embraces, not one
single weft yarn of the ground weave, but two successive
weft yarns Tl and T2 at one and the same time, as illustrated.
In this example the leno yarn t behaves nevertheless in the
same manner as in Figs. 3 and 4, wi~th the difference that,
; on the front side, only one loop out of two of this yarn
serves to pinch a pile yarn loop. It may be said that this
structure is obtained by the~repetition of a (design)
repeat 4.
Figs. 9 and 10 show an example in which the pile
yarn loops P show a W-type configuration, due to the fact
:,
that each pile yarn loop P passes not only under two weft
yarns Tl of odd number, but also over the top of the inter-
mediate weft yarn T2 of even number. Here also, the leno
yarn t embraces only the single warp yarn Cl, against which
rest the pile yarn loops, whilst two of the first successive
loops (mentioned above) of said leno yarn serve to pinch
one and the same pile yarn loop.
Figs. 11 and 12 show a modification of the
embodiment of Figs. 9 and 10, from which it differs in that
the successive pile yarn loops P are situated alternately
on one side and on the other of the warp yarn Cl in question,
, ,,~ , ~
g
6~ :
and that a second warp yarn C2 is also embraced by the
leno yarn t and plays symmetrically the same role as the
warp yarn Cl.
In order to carry out the method of manufacture
of pile according to the invention, a single-cloth loom
may be employed, the main part of which is shown diagramma-
tlcally in Fig. 13. Here, once again, the yarns mentioned
above can be seen, i.e. the two warp yarns Cl, C2, the weft
yarn T2, the pile yarn P,~and the leno yarn t. The two
warp yarns Cl, C2 are threaded through the eyelets of two
heddles 31,32 respectively, mounted in corresponding
mobile harness frames and the pile yarn P is passed through
the eyelet of a third heddle 33 mounted in a corresponding
mobile frame. As for the leno yarn t, it passes through
the eyelet of a fourth heddle 34 mounted in a fixed frame,
and also through the eyelet of a fork 36 mounted in a
moblle half-frame and co-operating with two heddles 37,38
~; mounted respectively ln two other frames to form a leno.
At ll will be seen once again the position of the forming ~.
and cutting knife for the upper pile yarn loops P.
In the area of the reed 39, three levels of sets
of yarns can be se n for the four yarns which have just
been enumerated, i.e. the lower level in which is located at
the moment the warp yarn C2, the intermediate level in which
are located at the moment both the warp yarn Cl and the leno
yarn t, and the upper level in which is located at the
moment th0 pile yarn P. These four yarns pass between the
two heddles 37,38 for leno formation and through the same
interval between two teeth of the reed 39. It will be
observed that the path of the weft yarn T2 to be inserted
- 10 -
66
lies between the lower level and the intermediate level,
whereas the rod 11 for forming and cutting the pile yarn
is located between the intermediate level and -the upper
level. As for the eyelet of the fixed frame carrying the
leno yarn heddle 34, it remains permanently at the lower
level.
After forming of the following shed, the different
elements are situated in the positions shown in Fig. 1~,
i.e. the pile yarn P is in the lower level (no rod is
introduced but instead the pic~ of the following weft yarn
Tl), the positions of the two warp yarns Cl and C2 have
been interchanged and the leno yarn, after being lowered
by the fork 36, has been raised once more to the same
intermediate level, but it has passed into its position of
crossing with the warp yarn Cl, on the other side of the ;
warp yarn Cl in respect of the pile yarn loop, to form a
~leno, as explained with reference to Fig. 2. ~;
The production of the different possible struc-
tures of pile by carrying out the method in question on
looms e~uipped with at least one extra feed frame and two
extra mobile frames with a fork-type half-frame, is made
possible by suitable programming, previously recorded in
the cards of the dobby which controls the movements of the
harness frames in which the corresponding heddles are
mounted. Programming of this kind is within the ability of
a man skilled in the art, it does not form part of the
present invention and will not be described in detail here.
It is evident that, for the formation of the -
leno, instead of the system with two special heddles
37,38 and fork 39, any other suitable and conventional system
~2~366
may be employed, for example needle heddles, or those of
the Madras type.
In Figs. 15 and 16 the main part of a loom for
double cloth weaving of ground weave is shown diagramma-
tically and, for the lower ground weave cloth, the same
reference numerals have been retained as for the single
cloth of the loom in Figs. 13 and 14, since the same ele-
ments are to be found here. As for the upper ground weave
~loth, all the same elements relating to the lower cloth
will be found here once more, but upside down (with ver-
,
tical directions of displ~acement reversed), except for thepile yarn which, in this example, is present only once
for the two cloths, as lS the case in the method manufacture
shown in Figs. 3 and 4. In other words, the explanations
given for the single cloth loom of Figs. 13 and 14~apply -
to the double-cloth loom of Figs. 15 and 16.
It should be noted that, in the double-cloth
looms according to the invention, (see Flgs. 15 and 16)
the mobile heddle frames for the formation of the~leno
,
~; ~ 20 have an independent movement, i.e. they do not all move
~; together. By this means, on the same loom, lt is possible
to modify the interval between the two cloths and, conse-
quently, the height of the pile, which would be practically
impossible with leno heddles moving simultaneously together.
. ~,
,~
- 12 -
