Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
:~3@~;$~3~
DESCRIPTION
. . .
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a new fabric
which is rich in a new, unparalleled raw material feeling,
a fashionable feeling and an unexpected feeling.
In more detail, the present invention relates to
a three dimensional fibrous fabric having a new structure
having many scaly structures covering the surace layer of
the fabric and to its method of preparation.
Fabrics similar to the present invention have
never been seen before. The closest would be a fabric
prepared by embossing a scaly structure such as an
embossing treatment of an artific~ial leather and followed
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by an enamel treatment on the~surface.
However, in the conventional fabric ~like this,
the surface and cros~s-sectional structures have poor cubic
effects. It looks~ artificial;~and a natural feeling is
scarce because the surface~shape is in a regular manner.
The feeling is very rough ~and hard and it looks
paper-llke.
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.
66623-188
Disclosure of Invention
Technological problems to be solved by the present
invention are the need for a new fabric which is rich in a new raw
material feeling which has been unparalleled and has an unexpected
feeling and at the same time a fashionable feeling, ancl the need
for a method for preparing said fabric.
The present invention provides a three dimensional
fabric having,
a face surface,
an opposite base fabric, ~~
a body of pile fibers therebètween piled from the base
fabric,
wherein the said pile fiber~, at the apex end at the face
surfaae of the fabric, are abutted and joined to form contlguous
substantially flat scale-like areas each bounded by a boundary;
and
the said scale-like areas cover the face surface of the
fabric.
Another aspect of the present invention provides a
method for preparing the three dimensional fabric. One embodiment
of the process comprises: :
pressing a piled layer of a piled fabric having a number of
piles made of a fiber under heat and compression to adhere apexes
of the piles over a wide area and thereby to make it into a film-
like monolithic structure, and
66623-188
crumpling the said fabric and splitting the thus-formed film-like
monolithic structure into units of small area, thereby to form a
number of the scale-like areas.
66623-188
Compared to the conventional products which are
easily distinyuished as being artificial products, the
present invention offers a three dimensional Eabric having
a new, unique structure and a method Eor preparing it
wherein the fabric has not been seen before as a fiber
product, the surace appearance exhibits a scaly structure
which has an outer appearance and luster rich in a feeling
of a natural product and a new raw material such as
mineral-like, namely mica-like and coal-like, bagworm-like
or an outer appearance of the surEace skin of a pine tree
and at the same time has a feeling being three dimensional
and is excellent in flexibility.
In more detail, the three dimensional fabric
having a unique structure of~ered by the present inven-tion
has practical eEfects as described in the following (1~
to (9~ which have not been seen in si~ilar, conventional
fabrics~
tl) A fabric whose outer appearance exhibits an
aspect being very rich in a natural feeling such as
scale-like, mineral-likei surface skin-like of a pine
tree, bagworm-like and so on and haviny never been seen in
the conventional product and being rich in a new raw
material feeling and an unexpected feeling, is ofEered by
the scaly struc-ture covering.the surface layer of the
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~.
" l~ .
fabric.
(2) The scaly structure covering the surface layer
of the fabric gives a characteristic luster feeling by the
phenomenon of reflection of light due to its flat-shape
and thereby a fabric having esthetic and fashionable
feelings is offered. Such a unique luster feeling is
especially remarkable in a deep color such as black and so
on.
(3) Contrary to the outer appearance of the surface
which is apparently rough and hard, a fabric which is rich
in flexibility is offered.
(4) A fihrous fabric whose whole outer appearance is
rich in a cubic effect is offered because it is consti-
tuted by a three dimensional fabric and forms scaly
struct~res of various areas.
Because each scaly structure is constituted by
an independent apex part of piles, independent movement is
possible to some extent and it is therefore possible to
obtain changing effects of outer appearance and luster in
accordance with the movement of the fabric while in use.
(5) Because the intermediate layers between the
bottom of the piles and~the inside of the scaly structures
are constituted by many piles fibers, the ratio of vacancy
is high, and good heat retaining, flexibility, cushioning
characteristics can be obtained by a structure wherein
~5~
sald intermediate layers exist.
(6) Because almost the whole fabric surace is
covered with scaly structure of flat shapes, the fabric
repels water and does not allow wind to pass through.
Namely, it has both good windbreak performance and water
repellency.
(7) The fabric has two different characteristics,
namely both being rich in rural beauty and having high
class, new raw material feeling.
(8) It is possible to cut the fabric by a cutter,
scissors and so on in the same way as ordinary fibrous
fabric. No fluff is practically generated, and it is easy
to produce various final manufactured goods.
(9) In case wherein the apex parts of piled fibers
with a resin are made in a body as a group with a flat-
shape, said scaly structure has excellent durability and
therefore can keep a new raw mat.erial feeling, an unex-
pected feeling and the good, fashionable characteristics
which are the expected effects of the present invention.
Brief Description of Drawin~
Figure 1 is a rough model cross-sectional
picture showing an example of a cross-sectional structure
of the three dimensional fabric having the unique
structure of the present invention as a model.
Figure 2 is a rough model surface picture
showing the scaly structure of the fabric of the present
invention as a model.
Figure 3 is a microscopic picture showing an
example of a cross-sectional shape of the fabric of the
present invention.
Figure 4 is a m.icroscopic picture enlarging the
fabric surface, which shows an example of the outer
appearance of the scaly structure of the fabric of the
present invention wherein the area of a constituent unit
is relatively large and the size is not relatively
uniform.
Figure 5 is a microscop:ic picture of the fabric
surfaee showing an example of the outer appearanee of the
scaly structure wherein the area of a constituent unit is
relatively small in the fabrie of the present invention.
Figure 6 is a microscopic picture enlarging
further a part of the sealy strueture o~ the three dimen-
sional fabric of the present invention.
Figure 7 is a microseopie pieture o the fabrie
surfaee enlarging further more a part of the sealy struc-
ture shown in Figure 6.
Best Mode for Carrying Out the Inv ntlon
A three dimensional fabric having the unique
strueture of the present invention and its method of
preparation will be hereinafter further explained in
~5~2
detail.
The scaly structure in the present invention
means a structure wherein apexes of a number of piled
fibers are made in a body as a group with a flat-shape and
exist on the surface layer of the fabri.c like scales and
the Eabric of the present invention is constituted by many
of these scaly structures covering the surface of the
abric layer.
As the three dimensional fabric having a unique
structure of the present invention, the base fabric is
constituted by a piled fabric, for example, a double
velludo fabric, a chinchilla fabric, woven and knitted
fabrics using chenille yarns, a piled tricot, other warp
knitted piled products, an electric flock, a mechanical
flock and so on, but it is not restricted thereto and any
fabric having a lot of piles, for example, piled fabric
prepared by other method of preparation, can be used.
Figure 1 is a rough model cross-sectional
picture showing an example of a cross-sectional structure
of the three dimensional fabric having the unique
structure of the present invention as a model.
As shown ln the figure, the three dimensional
fabric 1 of the present lnvention exhibits a structure of
three layers, and in the upper-most layer, the ~irst layer
2, the apexes of many piled fibers 3 are made in a body
with a flat-shape by self-adhering action due to
heat-fusion of the polymer constituting said piled fibers
or by adhering action of an adhesive when said adhesive,
made of a resin and so on, is used in parallel and a face
4 having a proper area is formed. The ground texture of
the piled fabric 5 is the most lower layer among three
layers and the layer of piled fibers 6 is the intermediate
layer among three layers. In the intermediate layer, the
piled fibers 3 usually exist in an inclined state and
stand close together.
A number of the above described faces 4 shown in
Figure 1 are formed on the surface of the fabric in such a
way that they cover whole area of said fabric. Figure 2
is a surface picture showing the state of the fabric
surface as a model.
Namely, a scaly structure 7 i5 formed as a whole
by locating a number of faces 4 covering densely the
surface with a crack 8 between. A unit face ~a scale
constituting unit3 4 o~ scaly structure adjoining each
other i5 separated by a crack 8 from the surface outer
appearance, but practically connected through piled fibers
3, a ground texture 5 and other piled fibers 3. Namely, a
number of piled fibers 3 existing between the scaly
structure 7 and the ground texture ~ are inclined in
general but stand close together as piled fibers to form
an intermediate layer having high ratio of vacanc~ consti~
tuted by a number of piled fibers, and the ground texture
S holds said piled fibers 3 and constitutes a base fabric
5 of the three dimensional fabric 1 of the present inven-
tion. The length of the part of piled ibers in the
intermediate layer is preferably in the range of 1 to 40
mm to sufficiently exhibit the efect of the above
described structure of three layers.
Based on this structure, the three dimensional
fabric of the present invention has a mass of the scaly
structures on its surface layer wherein each scaly struc-
ture 7 constituted by a face 4 can move independently to
some extent from the adjoining scaly structure 7. Because
the three dimensional fabric of the present invention has
a unique state and structure like this, the outer appear-
ance exhibits an aspect being ~ery rich in a natural
feeling which is not seen in the conventional products
such as scale-like, mineral-like, surface skin-like o
pine tree, bagworm-like and so on and when said three
dimensional abric is bent and curved, adjoining scaly
structures are separated three-dimensionally and the
insides of these scales can be exposed. These unique
appearance and movement characteristics of the scaly
structure offer a fabric whlch is rich in a new, raw
material eeling, an unexpected eeling and a highly
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fashionable characteristic.
Figure 3 is a cross-sectional microscopic
pi~ture showlng an example of a cross-sectional shape of
the fabric having the unique structure of the present
invention and a microscopic picture showing an enlargement
of an actual cross-sectional fabric structure correspond-
ing to the model figure shown in Fiyure 1.
Figure 4 is a microscopic picture of the fabric
structure, which shows an example of the outer appearance
oE the scaly structure wherein the area of a constituent
unit of the scaly structure of the three dimensional
fabric having the unique structure of the present
invèntion is relatively larye and the size is not rela-
tively uniform.
Figure S is a microscopic picture of the fabric
surface showing an example of the outer appearance of the
scaly structure wherein the area o~ a constituent unit is
relatively small in the fabric having the unique structure
of the present in~lention.
Figure 6 is a microscopic picture enlarging
~urther a part of the scaly structura of the fabric having
the unique structure of the present invention.
Figure 7 is a microscopic picture of the fabric
surface enla~ging further a part of the scaly structure~
Moreover, in three dimensional fabric of the
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32
present invention, it is preferable that at least in a
part of the circumferential part of the apex of the scaly
structure, a fibrous state partly appears in the split
state. The split state exhibiting said fibrous state
means, as shown with 9 in Figure 2, a state wherein the
circumferential part of the apex of the scaly structure is
substantially separated in fibrous state. By controlling
the forming state of the scaly structure and the adhering
state in a body of the apex of the piles, a new, raw
material feeling and a feeling of natural product of the
outer portion of the fabric, which the three dimensional
fabric of the present invention has, can be stren~thened.
Moreoverl the touch thereby hardly becomes paper-like and
it has flexibility and a cubic effect and becomes
fashionable.
The three dimensional ;Eabric having the above
described unique structure of the present invention can be
prepared by (1) using a piled fabric having a number of
piled ibers such as the above described double-velludo
fabrics such as a single pile, a multi pile and so on,
chinchilla fabric, woven and knitted fabrics using
chenille yarns, piled tricot, other warp knitted piled
products, electric flock, mechanical flock and so on as a
raw material fabric, (2) carrying out a pressing treatment
under heating and compression on the piled layer of the
~g~
said piled fabric to adhere the piled surface layer which
the apexes of the piles form in a body and in a film-shape
over a wi~e area, and 13) crumpling thereafter said fabric
to split the above described film-like monolithic
structure into a number of units of small area and to form
thereby a number of scaly structures.
Pile length of the piled fabric largely influ-
ences formability of the scaly structure. Namely, if the
pile length is large, it is easy to make the apexes of
piles in a body with a flat-shape and therefore easy to
form a scaly structure. On the other hand, if the length
is small, it is difficult to make the apexes of pile in a
body and formability of a scaly structure is poor. In
view of this fact, 3 mm or more is preferable for the pile
length, and 5 mm or more is more preferable. The upper
limit of the length of the pile is not specially
restricted, but the length up to about 45 mm is practical
from the view point of the manufacturing technology of
piled fabrics.
Single filament denier of the fiber forming the
piled part is not specifically restricted. However,
taking formability, durability and esthetic appearance of
a scaly structure into consideration, it is preferable
that a ~lltra-fine artificial fiber whose denier is
denier or less, more preferably 0.5 denier or less, is
~3~
used.
Moreover, as the density of numbers of piles of
the piled fabric for the raw material, an amount of more
than 5,000 piles/cm2 is preferable. Especially, the
production of a super ultra-fine fiber whose denier is
0.01 denier or less is surely possible by means of present
manufacturing technology of an ultra-fine piled fabric, so
that a piled fabric of an ultra-high pile density whose
value is 5 to 6 million piles/cm2 can be prepared with
this super ultra-fine fiber. This piled fabric having
such an ultra-high pile density can therefore be used to
obtain a three dimensional fabric of the present
invention. However, to the knowledge of the present
inventors, it is preferable that in general, a high pile
density of about 10,000 to 200,000 piles/cm2 is used,
taking the practical ease of production into
consideration. In general, it is desirable that the
number of pi~es per unit area is larger because larger
numbers of masses and the condition of flat-shape can be
more easily prepared in such a case. For these reasons,
it is desirable that the above described ultra-fine
artificial fiber whose denier is 1 denier or less is used
because it can result in an increase in the number of
piles.
The average value of the area of a constituent
- 13 ~
unit of the scaly structure is an important ~actor for
obtaining the expected effects of the present invention,
especially the e~fect of the outer appearance having the
fashionable characteristics. To the knowledge o~ the
present inventors, it is preferable that the value is in
the range of 0.5 x 10. 2 cm2 (0.5 mrn square~ to 1 x 102 cm2
(10 cm square~ and it is more preferable that it is in the
range of 2 x lQ 2 cm2 to 1 x 10 cm2.
For example, in case of the scaly structure
having a small pattern and a mild feeling, the range of
about 0.5 x 10 2 cm2 to 6 x 10 2 cm2 is preferable. On
the other hand, in case o~ t!l~ scaly structure having an
intermediate pattern and a relatively bold feeling, the
range of ahout 6 x 10 2 cm2 to 1 x 10 cm2 is preferable.
Moreover, in case of the scaly structure having a large
pattern and an even bolder feelincJ, the range of about 1 x
1.0 cm2 to 1 x 102 cm2 is preferable.
In the present invention, the average value of
the area of a constituent unit of the scaly structure V
can be obtained by calculating the number of the scaly
structures per unit area 100 cm2 from the following equa-
tion (1)
V = 100 cm2/numbers of the scaly structure ....... (1)
Wherein the sampling area of 100 cm2 is not
adequate because of a large pattern and so on, larger
sampliny area can be properly taken. After all, the
average value of the area of a constituent unit should be
obtained by dividing the value of the sampling area by the
number of the scale structures existing in the area.
If the patterns in these area range of are a
mixture of masses having properly random sizes and
properly random shapes without any definite pattern, the
appearance overflows with natural feeling and it is
esthetically excellent.
IE the average value of the area of a
constituent unit of the scaly structure is 0.5 x 10 2 cm2
or less, the merit of the existence of the scaly structure
decreases and the surface appearance is no different from
an ordinary simple piled fabric and lacks uniqueness. On
the other hand, if the value exceeds 1 x 102 cm2, the
whole surface state is a flat one like an film sheet and
lacks a cubic effect and the touch is papery. It i8 nbt
desirable in general. However, in the application field
such as wall decorative material and so on wherein a
material of large si~e is generally used, such a large
pattern of the scaly structure as one exceeding 1 x 10
cm2 can be used. After all, the appropriate size changes
in accordance with various practical applications.
As a raw material constituting the fabric of the
présent invention, elther a natural fiber or a synthetic
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fiber can be used and a properly blended one can be also
used. However, as a fiber forming the piled parts, a heat
fusing fiber is preferable, and a synthetic fiber is
especially preferable. As the examples of the raw
material for the synthetic fiber, polyethylene tere-
phthalate or its copolymer ~for example, a copolymerizable
component such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid), poly-
butylene terephthalate or its copolymer, polyamides such
as nylon 66, nylon 6 and nylon 12, polyacrylonitrile type
polymers can be preferably used. Polymer compositions
wherein modifiers and additives are blended with these
polymers for the purposes of destaticiziny, improving
dyeability, delustering, stain-pxoofing, fire retarding
and shrink-proofing, can be properly preferably used.
As a practical method for carrying out a press
treatment under heating and compression on a pile layer of
a piled fabric, adhering a surface layer of the piles
formed with apexes of the piles over a wide area and
making it into a body with a film-like state, a method
wherein the pile layer is pressed by means of heated
calendar rolls and heat treatment is carried out while the
pile layer is being compressed, is the most practical one.
Besides the calendar roll method, a compression treatment
using a heated plate can be used. When a roll or a plate
is used for pressing, the face of the press may be either
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66G23-18S
flat or uneven. In the present invention, pressing i~ generally
carried ou~ by means of a press surface with a mlrxor surface, but
an embossing roll or an embossin~ plate having an embossing
pattern of a regular shape or an irregular shape can be used for
pressing. By doing so, a three dlmensional fabric haviny a three
dimensional pattern with an embossed pattern and being rich in
more fashionable feeling is obtained.
Scaly structures can be effectively formed by crumpling
the film-llke monollthic structure formed by the above described
process. To i~prove the shape retaining property and durability
of the scaly structures, they may be fibers treated wlth a binder
resin. The rasin is applied to a surface layer of the monollthic
s~ructure be~ore crumpling and thereafter the monolithic structure
is spll~ into the scaly struatures. Alternatlvely, the scaly
structures are formed at first by crumpling the monolithic
structure and then the resin is applied to the scaly structures.
With respect to the touah or hand, a more flexible and
softer product can be obtained by the former process order, but
7 -
the latter process order is superior to the former from
the point of durability and shape retaining property.
As the resins used in this process, acrylic,
melamine, vinyl acetate and epoxy resins, their copolymer
resins, and high polymer elastomers such as butadiene
copolymers, vinyl chloride copolymers and polyurethane are
used.
As the method for adding the resin, a process
comprising impregnation with the resin ~ squeezing
drying ~ curing, and coating methods such as direct
transferring, gravure, spraying and so on are preferably
used, but it is not specially restricted and is properly
selected in accordance with the touch and other
characteristics desired.
The heating temperature in the calendar roll
treatment on a pile layer of a piled fabric should be
properly selected in accordance with a raw material of the
piled fiber, but in general a range of 120 to 230C is
preferable and a range of 160 to 210c is more preferable.
Namely, it is preferable that the treatment is carried out
at the temperature wherein the piled fiber reaches a
semimolten state. It is therefore difficult to form a
scaly structure at too a low temperature condition. On
the other hand, at too a high temperature condition, there
is a possibility that the physical properties and dyeing
- 18 -
fastness of the fabric will decrease. Therefoxe the above
described temperature range, 120 to 230C, is the most
appropriate temperature.
Five kg/cm2 or more is preferable for the
treating pressure of the compression press, and 20 kg/cm2
or more is more preferable. Below 5 kg/cm2, the pressing
pressure is too low and scaly structure formation and
durability of the formed pattern are insufficient. To
treat in a range of 20 to 100 kg/cm2 is an ordinary
condition.
When a heat calendar roll machine is used as a
means of heat compression press treatment, said calendar
roll machine has generally a three roll structure in which
the central cylinder roll is heated and the upper and the
lower two plastorolls cannot be heated. It is therefore
important that the piled part is contacted with the
surfaces of heated cylinder rolls and thereby heat
treated. As the treating speed, 0.5 to 20 m/min is
preferable is accordance with the kind of machine, and 2
to 10 m/min is more preferable. Above 20 m/min, a fusing
ef~ect is poor and a desired mass of the apexes of piles
is hardly made in a body with a flat-shape and therefore
hardly forms a scaly structure. Durability of shape of
the scaly structure is also insufficient.
Formation of the scaly structure is largely
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influenced by the piled condition and the treating
direction of a lie of piles of the fabric before heat
press treatment. ~amely, to obtain a product whose
average area of a constituent unit o~ the scaly structure
is 0.5 x 10 2 cm2 to 6 x 10 2 cm2, namely small and whose
shapes are relatively uniform, handling and managing of
the piles are made in a good condition in advance by means
of brushing and treatment with a finishing agent such as
silicones and so on. Then a treatment under pressure and
heating is performed on the piled fabric to make the pile
direction in the following direction, namely, to
constitute the pile fiber layer in a laid state, said
treatment being carried out at a relatively lower tempera-
ture (at around 180C if the raw material of the piles is
polyethylene terephthalate).
On the other hand, to obtain a product whose
average area of a constituent unit of the scaly structure
is 6 x 10 2 cm2 or more and which has a surface condition
of an intermediate or large pattern, it is desirable on
the contrary that a material wherein handling and managing
of the piles are in a bad condition (i.e., the pile
direction is in a reverse direction and the pile fiber
layer is in a laid state) be treated by means of a press
and heat treatment at a higher temperature (at around
200C if the raw material oE the piles is polyethylene
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terephthalate).
Moreover, to obtain a product wherain var.ious
smal.l, intermediate and large patterns exist in a mixed
state and whose average area of a constituent unit is in a
range of 10 2 cm2 to 102 cm2, it is preferable to crumple
the intermediate or large pattern product by hand or
mechamically.
To carry out a mechanical crumpling treatment,
one can utilize various apparatus, even those not
manufactured for the purpose to carry out crumpling
treatments. Various apparatus for softening fabrics, for
example, a so called vibraker, liquid bath treating
apparatus in a such as a wince dyeing machine, a liquid
flow dyeing machine and so on, a tumble apparatus which
physically lifts up and drops a fabric, a beating
apparatus which hlts a fabric ~with a bar, a guiding
apparatus constituting plural bars for running a fabxic in
a curved way and so:on, can be properly utilized.
Moreover, to obtain the three dimensional fa~ric
of the present invention having a substantial number of
scaly structures of a fixed pattern, it is possib:le to use
a splitting technique such as rubbing and splitting to
make an~ optional single shape or mixed shapes such~ as
triangles, rectangles, polygons, circles, ellipses and so
on and/or optional sizes of these shapes, by using a knife
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3 S ~ ~ r~
with an edge and so on.
In the preceding or the following process of
making a scaly structure of the three dimensional abric
of the present invention, coating treatment of the back
surface, desizing-scouring and heat setting treatment,
treatment for making ultra-fine fibers in case of using an
artificial fiber being capable of making ultra-fine
fibers, dyeing, sizing, and drying and so on in the same
way as ordinary piled woven and knitted fabrics, are
suitably carried out.
Moreover, in the case of the conventional
ordinary piled fabrics, a backin~ treatment is generally
done on the back surface-of the fabric with a resin
coa~ing and so on in many cases to prevent falling out of
piles, but on the fabric of the present invention, the
problem of piles falling out hardly occurs because the
surface layer of th~ fabric is constituted by a scaly
structure. The backing treatment is thereore not neces-
sarily needed.
Moreover, water repelling treatment, flame
retarding treatment, stain resistant treatment and so on
may be suitably done, i~ necessary, on the three dimen-
sional fabric of the present invention.
The present invention will be more concretely
explained by the following examples.
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Example 1
The following two types of islands-in-a-sea type
composite fibers were spun and drawn to obtain blended
composite fibers of 73 denier - 18 filaments.
a~ The islands-in-a-sea type composite fiber No. l
Island component: Polyethylene terephthalate
~15 islands)
Sea component: Polystyrene
b) The islands-in-a-sea type composite fiber NoO2
Island component: Polyethylene terephthalate
copolymerized with 10 mole % of
isophthalic acid ~16 islands)
Sea component: Polystyrene
Here, the island-in-a-sea type composite iber No. l
comprised 80~ of the island component and 20% of the sea
component, and the ~whole fiber was 36.5 denier - 9
filaments. The island-in-a-sea type composite fiber No.2
comprised 80% of the island component and 20% of the sea
component, and the whole fiber was 36.5 denier - 9
filaments. Therefore, a blended iber of total 73 denier
- 18 filaments was obtained.
; This blended composite fiber was used as a pilable
fiber~ A two folded yean comprising 30 denier - 12
- 23 -
filaments of polyethylene terephthalate (a twist-set
product whose first twist ~S direction) was 900 T/m and
second twist (Z direction~ was 900 T/m) was used as a warp
of the ~round, and a twist-modified textured yarn of 150
denier - 48 filaments treated with an added twist of
400 T/m IS direction) and set with a twist-set was used as
a weft of the ground. A fabric whose pile length was
10 mm was obtained by means of a double velludo weaving
machine. As the fabric density, piled yarn, ground warp
and ground weft were 46, 91 and 93 yarns/inch.
Dry heat setting of the fabric thus obtained was
carried out and the sea component of the piled composite
yarn was removed by treating with trichloroethylene to
obtain a piled fabric wherein a number of ultrafine
fibers, whose monofilament denier was 0.2 denier, were
piled~ ~fter drying trichloroethylene, the back surface
of the said fabric was coated with a solution comprising
I00 parts of polyurethane, 25 parts of DMF and 0.25 parts
of a pigment by means of a knife coater machi~ne. The
backing treatment of the back surface of the fabr~c was
thereby carried out.
The coating quantity of:polyurethane on the fabric
was 14,8 g/m2. It was thereafter put into a
liquid-flowing circular dyeing machlne to make the piles
in a reverse direction, and the dyeing treatment was
:: :
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~S~
carried out by the following conditions.
(1~ Scouring (the treating time: 80C x 30 min)
The treating agents:
A j Sandet~G-29" (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical --
Industries Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g/lit.
Soda ash 0.5 g/lit.
(2) Dyeing (the treating time: 120C x 60 min)
Dyes:
Kayalon Polyester Light Red BS 0.5% owf
Resoline Blue BBLS 3.0% owf
Samalon Blac~s BBL Liq 15020.0% owf
LAP-50 0.5 g/lit.
PH 500 0.5 g/lit.
(3) Reduction cleaning (the treating time: 80C x 20 min)
The treating agents:
~aOH (30%) 3 g/lit.
Hydrosulphite 3 g/lit.
Sandet G-29 3 g/lit.
After dyeing, dehydration was done by means of a
centrifugal dehydrater.
Then, calender treatments under the following
~ ~1 a le ~na~k
- 25 -
conditions (A) and (B) were carried out by means of a
hydraulic three-roll plastocalender machine.
Table 1
_ _ .
(A) (B)
Temperature (C~ 180 200 .
Pressure (kg/cm2) 15 80
Treating speed (m/min) 8 8
_
Pile opening state of Sufficient A little
the treated fabric unsufficient~
_
. Direction of the fabric Following Reverse
: put in the calender : _
:
During the treatment, the piled part of the fabric
was made to contact the heated cylinder roll of the
calender roIl. Regarding the fabric treated under the
condition (A), its pile opening and handling conditions
were made good by brushlng beore the calender treatment.
- 26 -
.
~3~3S$~
Treated fabrics thus obtained had a layer of apexes
of piles being adhered over a wide area and being made in
a body with a film-shape.
Crumpling treatment on this treated fabric was
carried out by passing this treated fabric through an
apparatus for guiding fabric wherein plural bars were
placed alternately on a higher and a lower position to
make the zigzag curved running of the fabric possible.
The fabrics thus obtained by both treating level ~A3
and lB) had apexes of piles in a body with a flat-shape
and scaly structures.
The area of a constituent unit of said scaly
structure of the level (A) wa.s 20 x 10 2 cm2 on the
average and had a relatively uniform shape having a
relatively small area in the range of 3 x 10 2 cm2 to
-2 2
36 x 10 cm . The area of the level ~B) was 1.5 x 10 cm
on the average and had various shapes and areas, including
small as well as large ones in the range of 25 x 10 to
0.8 x 102 cm2. All outer appearances were unique and rich
in a natural feeling like a bagworm, coal or a skin of a
pine tree and rich in luster characteristic, flexibility
and cubic effect. The fabric was rich in esthetic and
high class feelings which had never been seen before.
In comparing the level (A) with the level (B), it was
found that the level (A) gave a mild feeling because each
27 -
S L~
scaly structure was small, while the level (B) gave a bold
feeling and a feeling being full of rural beauty because
each scaly structure was large.
Example 2
As a piled yarn, a filament yarn of 75 denier-18
filaments obtained by spinning and drawing
islands-in-a-sea type composite fibers having the
following constitution was used.
Island component: Polyethylene terephthalate
Sea component: Polystyrene
Number of the island component: 6
Ratio of the island/the sea component: 80/20
Monofilament denier of the island component:
0.56 denier
A twisted textured yarn of polyethylene tere-
phthalate of 75D-36f as a warp of the ground and a twisted
textured yarn of the same polymer oE 150D-48f as a weft of
the ground were used to obtain a fabric having piles whose
length was 11 mm by means of a double velludo weaving
machine. Regarding the fabric dsnsity, the piled yarn,
ground warp and ground weft were 47, 93 and 94 yarns/inch,
respectively.
After dr~ heat settlng of the said piled fabric,
the sea component of the composite yarns used for piled
- 28 -
yarns was removed by treating with trichloroethylene to
obtain a piled fabric wherein a number of ultrafine fibers
whose monofilament. denier was 0.56 denier. After drying
the trichloroethylene, the back surface of the said fabric
was coated with a solution comprising 100 parts of poly-
urethane, 13/18 parts` of MEK/toluene, 50/5 parts of
water/MEK, 2 parts of a crosslinking agent and 0.25 parts
of a pigment by means of a knife coater machine the
backing treatment of the back surface of -the piled fabric
was carri.ed out. Coating quantity of polyurethane on the
fabric was 22 g/m2. It was -thereafter put into a liquid-
flowing circular dyeing machine to make the piles in areverse direction during the dyeing treatment and the
dyeing treatment was carried out under the following
conditions.
(1~ Scouring (the treating I:ime: 80C x 30 min)
The treating agents:
"Sandet G-29" (manufactured by Sanyo
Chemical Industries Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g/lit.
Soda ash 0.5 g/lit.
(2) Dyeing (the treating time: 120C x 60 min)
Dyes:
Resoline Blue BBLS 2.5~ owf
Kayalon Polyester Light Red ~S 3.0~ owf
Foron Yellow Brown S-2RFL 4.6~ owf
- 29 -
~s~
Palanil Yellow 3G 1.7~ owf
LAP-50 (manufactured by Sanyo Chemical
Industries, Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g/lit.
PH-50Q (manufactured by 5anyo Chemical
Industries, Co., Ltd.) 0.5 g/lit.
(3) Reduction cleaning (the treating time: 80C x 20
min~
The treating agents:
NaOH (30%) 3 g/lit.
Hydrosulphite 3 g/lit.
"Sandet G-29" (manufactured by Sanyo
Chemical Industries Co., Ltdo) 3 g/lit.
After dyeing, dehydration was done by means of a
centrifugal dehydrater.
Then, a calendar treatment was carried out by means
o~ a hydraulic three-roll plastocalendar machine. The
treating conditions were as follows.
Temperature- 200C ~The piled part was contacted
with the heated cylinder roll)
Pressure: 30 kg/cm2
Treating speed: 8 m/min
Pile opening state of the treated fabric: A little
~ unsufficient
Direction of the fabric put in the calendar: Reverse
After the treatment, some crumpling by hand was
- 30
done, and a resin treatment was then carried out under the
following conditions to obtain a dimensional durability.
Resin treatment: Resin impregnation (Pick up 57%)
Drying (100C x 5 min~ ~ Curing (180C x 1 min~
Resin composition: "Sumitex Resin M-3 (manufactured
by Sumitomo Chemical Industries, Co., Ltd.)
20 g/lit~
CB-01 (Cosmo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 2 g/lit.
Ammonium Persulphate 2 g/lit.
Resin built-up: 0.9%
Moreover, said fabric was put in a Wince dyeing
machine containing warm water at 80C, rotated and moved
in the warm water for 20 minutes to crumpling it and
dried.
Treated fabrics thus obtained had apexes of
piles in a body and good scaly structures. The average
area of a constituent unit of said scaly structures was
2.4 x 10 cm2, and the ~abric had various Iarge,
intermediate and small shapes and areas in the range of 9
x 10 2 cm2 to 0.8 x 102 cm2, and the outer appearance
exhibited excellent scaly structures. An excellent fabric
having an outer apperance like mica and being rich in a
natural feelinq, a new, raw material feelinq and a
fushionable characteristic was obtained.
Moreover, durability of said scaly structure was
~ r~ na~k
- 31 -
:~l3~
e~aluated. The methods for testing durability and the
results were as follows.
Moreover, .comparison tests on an untreated
product without any shape fixing treatment by means of
resin treatment were carried out.
Table 2
Fixed product Untreated product
_
Test 1 ~ to o
Test 2 o to ~ x to Q
Test 3 ~ Q to o
Evaluation level
: No change in shape after the test
o : Li.ttle change in shape after the test
a A little chan~e in shape after ~he t~st
x : Remarkable change in shape after the test
Testing method
Test 1: Wearing durability test of an outer
coat on both the circumference parts of the elbows and the
parts of axillae of which a fabric to be tested was
attached was done for one week.
Test 2: Durability test against dry cleanings
~ 32
by means of an ordinary method using perchlene were done
for two times in a dry cleaniny shop.
Test 3: Abrasion durability test wherein an
abrasive go and back cycle test of 50 times was carried
out on a surface to be abraded under a pressing load of
500 g by means of Gakushin type abrasion tester.
It is clear from Table 2 that the products whose
scaly structure was formed by making in a body with a
resin, had better durability.
Moreover, the products adhered with the resin
exhibited excellent luster characteristic. The products
without resin adherence showed softer feeling and touch
but it is recognized that the products with resin
adherence also had sufficiently good flexibility.
Example 3
The following two kinds of islands-in-a-sea type
composite fibers were spun and drawn to obtain blended
composite fibers of 65 denier - 18 filaments.
a) The islands-in-a-sea type composite fiber No n 1
Island component: Polyethylene terephthalate
~16 islands)
Sea component: Copolymer of polyethylene
terephthalate/isophthalic
acid~5-sodium sulfoisophthalic
33 -
acid/87.5 ~70/30)/12.5 mole %
b) ~he islands-in-a-sea type composi.te iber No.2
Island component: Polyethylene terephthalate
- copolymerized with 4.9 mole %
of isophthalic acid
~16 islands)
Sea component: Copolymer of polyethylene
terephthalate/isophthalic
acid~5-sodium sulfoisophthalic
acid/87.5 (70/30)/12.5 mole %
Here, the islands-in-a-sea type composite iber
No.1 comprised 90~ of the island component and 10~ of the
sea component and the whole fiber was 32.5 denier - 9
filaments. The .islands-in-a-sea type composite fiber No.2
comprised 90~ of the island component and 10% of the sea~
component and the whole fiber was 32.5 denier - 9
filaments. Therefore, a blended;fiber o total 65 denier
- 18 filaments was obtained.
This blended composite fiber was used as a
pilable fiber. A false twlsted textured yarn comprising
75 denier - 36 filaments of polyethylene terephthalate; was
used as a~warp of the ground, and a false twisted textured
yarn of~ 100 denier - ~48 filaments of polyethylene
terephthalate was used~as~ a wet of the ground. A Eahric'
whose pile length was 6 mm was obtained by means of a
: :
- 34 -
double velludo weaving machine. Regarding fabric density,
the piled yarn, ground warp and ground weft were 45.5, 91
and 107 yarnslinch.
After dry heat setting of the fabric thus
obtained was carried out, the following treatment was
carried out by means of a liquid-flowing circular dyeing
machine.
(1) Treatment for preparing a ultra-fine fiber
The 1st treatment:
Treating agent: Malechead CM (manufactured by
Takeda Chemicals Industry Co., Ltd.) 1 g/lit.
Treating temperature x time: 120C x 30 minutes
The 2nd treatment:
Treating agent: NaOH (30%) 3 g/lit.
Treating temperature x time: 80C x 30 minutes
(2) Dyeing ~the treating time: 120C x 60 min)
Dyes:
Resoline Blue BBLS ; 0.53~ owf
Kayalon Polyester Light Red BS 0.73~ owf
Foron Yellow ~rown S-2RFL3.2% ow~
(3) Reduction clean~ng
The treating agents.
NaOH (30%) 3 g/lit.
Hydrosulphite 3 g/lit.
~ 7~~aJ~ ~na~
- 35 -
Sandet G-29 1 gtlit.
(4) Silicone treatment
Treating agent:
Ultratex~ESC (manufactured by CIBA-GEIGY)0.~% owf
Treating temperature x time: 20C x 10 minutes
A ultra-fine piled fabric whose monofilament
denier was 0.2 denier was obtained by these treatments.
After drying said ultra-fine piled fabric, a calendar
treatment using the belsw described conditions was carried
out by means of a hydraulic three-roll plastoralendar
machine~
The treating conditions were as follows.
Temperature: 190C (The piled part was contacted
with the heated cylinder roll)
Pressure: 30 kg/cm2
Treating speed: 8 m/min
Pile opening state of the treated fabric: A little
unsufficient
Direction of the fabric put in the calendar: Reverse
A resin treatment under the following conditions
was immediately carried out on the calendar treated fabric
thus obtained.
Resin treatment process: Resin impregnation (Pick up
41~ Drying (100C x 5 min) ~ Curing (120~C x
3 min)
~ 7 ra le~ n~aT ~
- 36 -
35S~$~
Resin composition: "Sumitex Resin M-3l' (manufactured
by Sumitomo Chemical Industries, Co., Ltd.)
28 g/lit.
CB-Ol (Cosmo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 2 g/lit.
Ammonium Persulphate 2 gjlit.
Resin built-up: 0.3%
Moreover, said fabric was put in a liquid-
flowing circular dyeing machine and said fabric was
circulated in said liquid-flowing circular dyeing machine
for 12 minutes to carry out a crumpling treatment. The
bath ratio was 1:30, and the nozzle pressure was 1.2
kg/cm2.
The three dimensional fabric of the present
invention thus obtained had a scaly structure whose
constituent unit was in the range of 1 x lO 2 cm2 to 5 x
10 2 cm2 and relatively small and whose size was rela-
t.ively uniform.
This three dimensional fabric had a number o
small scaly structures densely covering its surface, and
the outer appearance was beautiful with these scaly
structures. The fabric exhibited a mild feeling and was
rich~in a natural fee~ling, a new, raw material feeling and
a fashionable characteristic
:
The three dimensional fabric of Example 3 was
different from those of Examples 1 and 2 because the piled
- 37 -
$~
fabric had no backing treatment with a resin. The touch
of the fabric was therefore very soft and the fabric was
good for apparel use having excellent drapery.
Industrial Applicability
The three dlmensional fabric having a unique
structure of the present invention can be widely used in
such various applications that fashion characteristics are
important by utilizing its new, raw material feeling and
unexpected feeling.
Namely, it can be used for fashionable outer
wears, fox example, over coatings such as an overcoat, a
raincoat, a cape, a shawl and so on, jackets such as a
jacket, a suit, a business suit, and so on, trousers such
as slacks, pants and so on, and outer wears such as hats,
gloves and so on.
It can be also used for a surface raw material
for bags rich in a fashionable feeling, for example, bags
such as a bag, a handbag and so on, various briefcases and
various suitcases.
Moreover, it can be also used ~or wall decora-
tive materials suoh as inner and outer wall materials
being rich in a new eeling and a new, raw material
feeling.
Moreover, it can be also used for interior
materials such as a curtain, a floor material, carpets, a
- 38 -
chair cloth, a case for exhibiting goods, a tent material
of a shop and so on.
Moreover, it can be also used for shoes, boots
and so on.
- 39 -
