Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
, ~ H 269 PCT / 26.05.1993 2i ~ 5 8 6 ~
.. . ~ .
Hair tr~A- preparations
This invention relates to hair treatment preparations
cont~n;ng a special combination of active ingredients.
The washing and care of hair is an important part of
personal hygiene. Both the washing of hair with shampoos and the
decorative f;n;sh;ng of hair styles, for example by coloring or
permanent waving, are measures which affect the natural structure
and properties of hair. For example, the wet and dry comhAh;l;ty
of hair, its hold and its body can be adversely affected or the
number of split ends can be increased by such measures. In
addition, the uniform distribution of dyes applied with hair
coloring preparations can often be problematical, particularly on
hair which has been seriously damaged.
Accordingly, it has long been standard practice to subject
the hair to a special aftertreatment. To this end, the hair is
treated, normally by rinsing, with special active substances, for
example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers. Combability,
hold and body are improved and the number of split ends are reduced
by this treatment, depending on the formulation of the preparation
used.
In addition, so-called composite preparations have recently
been developed to reduce the effort involved in standard multistep
processes, particularly where the preparations are directly applied
by the user.
In addition to the usual components, for example for
cleaning hair, these composite preparations also contain active
substances which had previously been reserved for hair
aftertreatment preparations. The consumer is thus involved in one
less step. At the same time, packaging costs are reduced because
one product less is used.
The active substances available both for separate
aftertreatment preparations and for composite preparations are
unable as yet to satisfy every consumer requirement. More particu-
larly, the search still goes on for active substances and combina-
tions thereof which combine greater effectiveness with ready
biodegradability.
It has now surprisingly been found that preparations
contA;n;ng a combination of three classes of active substances
already known for hair treatment purposes ideally satisfy the
requirements mentioned above. Above all, very good wet and dry
combability is achieved. In addition, in the case of colored hair,
2145~60
~ ~ _ '' f
H 269 PCT 2
a strong levelling effect is obtained with surprisingly little
change in color. Finally, readily biodegradable preparations can
be formulated with this combination of active substances.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to a water-based
hair tr~tm~nt preparation c~ntAining typical cosmetic constituents,
characterized in that
- alkoxylated wool wax alcohols (A),
- esters of glycerol with saturated or lln~atllrated C1022 fatty
acids (B) and
- esters of sorbitan with saturated or unsaturated C1022 fatty
acids (C) and/or alkoxylated analogs thereof
are present.
Wool wax alcohols, which are also known as lanolin
alcohols, are complex mixtures of sterols and aliphatic alcohols
which are obtained from wool wax. The principal constituents of
wool wax alcohols are cholesterol, lanosterol and sterols derived
therefrom, C1830 n-alcohols, C1626 isoalcohols, ~lk~ne~iols and
iso~lk~ne~iols.
The reaction of these mixtures with alkylene oxides,
particularly ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, gives the
alkoxylated compounds which are known inter alia as emulsifiers,
solubilizers, moisturizers and conditioners. These products are
normally not uniformly alkoxylated compounds, but instead are
characterized by a homolog distribution determined by the particular
alkoxylation process applied. The degree of alkoxylation mentioned
is always based on the molar starting quantities of wool wax alcohol
and alkylene oxide.
Ethoxylated wool wax alcohols are preferred for the
purposes of the invention. Degrees of ethoxylation of 1 to 50 and,
above all, 2 to 30 are particularly preferred.
The glycerol esters (B) used may be monoesters, diesters
and triesters of glycerol with saturated or unsaturated C1022 fatty
acids. Preferred fatty acids are lauric acid, myristic acid,
palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic
acid and also erucic acid.
Esters with C16 and Cl8 fatty acids are particularly
preferred. Esters with unsaturated fatty acids are also particu-
larly preferred. In addition, the monoesters are preferred to the
diesters and triesters.
A particularly preferred compound (B) is glycerol
monooleate.
In addition to the chemically clearly defined compounds
21~60
, ~; .
H 269 PCT 8
mentioned above, mixtures of the type formed in the processing of
native renewable raw materials, for example fats and oils, may also
be used as the glycerol esters. In this case, the acid components
of the esters are mixtures of fatty acids corresponding to the
natural starting products. Mixtures of monoesters, diesters and
triesters, particularly monoesters and diesters, may also be used
in accordance with the invention.
The sorbitan esters (C) may be monoesters, sesquiesters,
diesters and triesters of sorbitan with saturated or unsaturated ClO
22 fatty acids. In this case, too, preferred fatty acids are lauric
acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid,
linoleic acid and linolenic acid and also erucic acid.
Esters with Cl6 and Cl8 fatty acids are particularly
preferred. Esters with unsaturated fatty acids are also particu-
larly preferred. In addition, the monoesters and sesquiesters are
preferred to the diesters and triesters.
Most particularly preferred compounds (C) are sorbitan
monooleate and sorbitan sesquioleate.
In addition to the chemically clearly defined compounds
mentioned above, mixtures of the type formed in the processing of
native renewable raw materials, for example fats and oils, may also
be used as the sorbitan esters. In this case, the acid components
of the esters are mixtures of fatty acids corresponding to the
natural starting products.
Compounds obtainable by reaction of the sorbitan esters (C)
mentioned with alkylene oxides, particularly ethylene oxide and
propylene oxide, may also be used in accordance with the invention.
These products are normally not individual compounds, but are
characterized by a corresponding homolog distribution according to
the particular alkoxylation process applied. The degree of
alkoxylation mentioned is always based on the molar starting
quantities of sorbitan ester and alkylene oxide. According to the
invention, ethoxylated sorbitan esters are preferred alkoxylated
sorbitan esters. Degrees of ethoxylation of 1 to 80 and, above all,
5 to 40 are particularly preferred.
The preparations according to the invention preferably
c~nt~;n the alkoxylated wool wax alcohols (A) in quantities of 0.1
to 5~ by weight, based on the preparation as a whole. The glycerol
esters (B) and the sorbitan esters (C) are preferably present in
quantities of 0.1 to 3~ by weight and, more preferably, in quanti-
ties of 0.1 to 2~ by weight.
Preparations cont~;n;ng a conditioner in addition to the
compulsory components (A), (B) and (C) are particularly suitable for
the treatment of hair and, in particular, for the aftertreatment of
21~5~&~
I C~
H 269 PCT 4
hair.
Examples of suitable hair-conditioning compounds are
cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, quaternized and
aminofunctional silicone oils, alkyl ami~m; n~s, esterquat3 and
phospholipids.
Examples of cationic surfactants suitable for use in the
hair treatment preparations according to the invention are, in
particular, quaternary ammonium compounds, preferably ammonium
halides, especially chloride and bromides, such as alkyl trimethyl
ammonium chlorides, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides and trialkyl
methyl ammonium chlorides, for example cetyl trimethyl ammonium
chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl
ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl
dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetyl methyl ammonium
chloride. Other cationic surfactants suitable for use in accordance
with the invention are quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
Cationic polymers may also be used as the hair-conditioning
compounds. Suitable cationic polymers typically contain a quater-
nary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
20 Preferred cationic polymers are, for example,
- quaternized cellulose ethers,
- polysiloxanes containing quaternary groups,
- dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride polymers,
- acrylamide dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride copolymers,
- dimethyl aminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl pyrrolidone copoly-
mers quaternized with diethyl sulfate,
- vinyl pyrrolidone/methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers,
- quaternized polyvinyl alcohol
and the polymers cont~;n;ng quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer
main chain known under the names of
- Polyquaternium 2,
- Polyquaternium 17,
- Polyquaternium 18 and
- Polyquaternium 27.
Silicone oils suitable for use in accordance with the
invention are the commercially available products Q2-7224 (a
stabilized trimethyl silyl amodimethicone; a product of Dow
Corning), Dow Corning 929 Emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-
modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059
(General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil~-Quat 3270 and 3272
(Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethyl siloxanes, Quaternium-
2 1 ~ 0
H 269 PCT 5
80).
Apart from a favourable conditioning effect, alkyl
amidoamines, particularly fatty acid ami~n~m; n~, such as the
stearyl amidopropyl dimethyl amine commercially available as Tego
Amid0 S 18, are distinguished in particular by their ready biode-
gradability.
So-called esterquats, such as the dialkyl ammonium
methosulfates and methyl hydroxyalkyl~ dialkoyloxyalkyl ammonium
methosulfates marketed under the name Stepantex~, are also readily
biodegradable.
Finally, natural substances, such as phospholipids, for
example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, may also be used
as the hair-conditioning compounds.
With the biodegradability of the preparations according to
the invention in mind, alkyl ami~o~m~nes, esterquats and
phospholipids are preferably used as the hair-conditioning com-
pounds. It is particularly preferred to use alkyl amidoamines,
The preparations according to the invention preferably have
a pH value of 3.5 to 6 and, more preferably, in the range from 4.0
to 5Ø Only in the case of special products, such as hair dyes and
permanent wave preparations, may higher pH values be preferred, al-
though a pH above 10 should generally not be exceeded.
Virtually any acid suitable for cosmetic purposes may be
used to establish this pH value. Edible acids are normally used,
particularly if the preparation is not intended for waving. Edible
acids are understood to be those acids which are consumed as part
of the normal human diet and which have positive effects on the
organism. The acids in question are, for example, acetic acid,
lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid
and gluconic acid. According to the invention, it is particularly
preferred to use citric acid and lactic acid.
In addition, the preparations according to the inventicn
may contain any of the cosmetic additives typically used for the
particular application envisaged.
Thus, the preparations may be formulated, for example, as
hair aftertreatment preparations, shampoos, hair dyes and wave
preparations.
According to the invention, the preparations are preferably
formulated as hair aftertreatment preparations, particularly hair
rinses. In this case, the preparations essentially contain water,
perfume oils, solubilizers and dyes in addition to the components
already mentioned.
The preparations according to the invention may be
formulated as shampoos above all in the case of so-called composite
.~ . 21~60
H 269 PCT 6
preparations where hair cleaning preparations and hair
aftertreatment preparations are combined in one and the same
product. In addition to their water base, these preparations
c~ntA;n surface-active compounds selected from the group of anionic,
zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants as an important
component.
Anionic surfactants suitable for the preparations according
to the invention are any of the anionic surfactants which are
suitable for use on the human body. They are characterized by a
water-solubilizing anionic group, for example a carboxylate,
sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group
c~ntA;n;ng appLu~imately 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Glycol or polygly-
col ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and also hydroxyl
groups may also be present in the molecule. The following are
examples of suitable anionic surfactants in the form of the sodium,
potassium and ammonium salts and also the mono-, di- and
triAlkAnolAmmnn;um salts containing 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the
alkanol group:
20 - linear fatty acids containing 10 to 22 carbon atoms
(soaps),
- ether carboxylic acids corresponding to the formula R-O-
(CH2-CH2O)X-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group
contA;n;ng 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
25 _ acyl sarcosides cont~;n;ng 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the
acyl group,
- acyl taurides c~ntA;n;ng 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl
group,
- acyl isethionates containing 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the
acyl group,
- sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters contA;n;ng 8 to
18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid
m~noA1kyl polyoxyethyl esters cont~;n;ng 8 to 18 carbon
atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
35 - linear alkane sulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
- linear alpha-olefin sulfonates containing 12 to 18 carbon
atoms,
- alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids contain-
ing 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
40 - alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates corre-
sponding to the formula R-O(CH2-CH2O)X-OSO3H, in which R is
a preferably linear alkyl group containing 10 to 18 carbon
atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
- mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to
~. 2145~60
H 269 PCT 7
D~-A-37 25 030,
- sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or hydroxyalkyl
propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
- sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids cnnt~;n;ng 12 to 24
carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to D~-A-39
26 344,
- esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which
are adducts of approximately 2 to 15 molecules ethylene
oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing
8 to 22 carbon atoms.
Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl
polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids containing 10
to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether
groups in the molecule and also sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl
esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and
sulfosuccinic acid monn~l kyl polyoxyethyl esters containing 8 to 18
carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.
Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which
contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -
COO(~) or -SO3(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable
zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-
alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl
dimethyl ammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium
glycinates, for example cocoacyl aminopropyl dimethyl ammonium
glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines
cnnt~;nin~ 8 to 18 carbon atomR in the alkyl or acyl group and coco-
acyl aminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred
zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by
the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which,
in addition to a C8l8 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain
at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group
and which are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of suitable
ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl propionic
acids, N-alkyl aminobutyric acids, N-alkyl ;m;no~;propionic acids,
N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkyl amidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-
alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acids and alkyl aminoacetic
acids all cnnt~;n;ng a~,u~imately 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl
group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-
çocoalkyl aminopropionate, cocoacyl aminoethyl aminopropionate and
C12l8 acyl sarcosine.
Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group,
a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and
polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group. Examples of
214~860
. ~ ~
compounds such as these are
- adducts of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol
propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to
22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids containing 12 to 22
carbon atoms and with alkylphenols containing 8 to 15
carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
- Cl222 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to
30 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol,
- C822 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated analogs
thereof and
- adducts of 5 to 60 mol ethylene oxide with castor oil and
hydrogenated castor oil.
The compounds containing alkyl groups used as surfactants
may be individual substances. However, it is generally preferred
to produce the compounds in question from native vegetable or animal
raw materials so that mixtures of compounds differing in their chain
length according to the particular raw material used are obtained.
The surfactants which are adducts of ethylene and/or
propylene oxide with fatty alcohols or derivatives of such adducts
may be both products having a "normal-range" homolog distribution
and also products having a "narrow-range" homolog distribution.
~Normal-range" products are mixtures of homologs which are obtained
in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali
metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as
catalysts. By contrast, narrow-range products are obtained when,
for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether
carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or
alcoholates are used as catalysts. It may be preferab1e to use
narrow-range products.
The preparations according to the invention preferably
c~nt~;n the surface-active compounds A in quantities of 0.5 to 20%
by weight and, more particularly, in quantities of 0.5 to 10~ by
weight, based on the particular preparation.
By virtue of the levelling properties of the combination of
active ingredients according to the invention, the preparations may
also be formulated as hair dyes. In this case, the preparations
contain substantive dyes and/or oxidation dye precursors as
essential components. The corresponding dyes and dye precursors
suitable for use on human hair are well known to the expert.
~ here the prepara~ions according to the inventior. are
formulated as permanent wave preparations, they may be formulated
both as a wave solutionifor carrying out the reducing first step of
f T 2 1 ~ ~ ~ 6 0
. ~
H 269 PCT g
pe-,~n~nt waving and also as a fixing solution. Wave solutions
contain keratin-reducing compounds, such as thioglycolic acid and
physiologically safe salts thereof, thiolactic acid, cysteamine,
thiomalic acid and ~-mercaptoethane sulfonic acid, as essential
components. Fixing solutions are normally acidic and contain
oxidizing agents, such as for example potassium bromate or hydrogen
peroxide. In the case of permanent wave treatment, both the wave
solution and the fixing solution may contain the combination of
active ingredients according to the invention. However, a large
part of the effect is actually obtained where only one of the two
solutions, particularly the fixing solution, contains the combina-
tion of active ingredients.
Other typical constituents of the preparations according to
the invention may be:
- anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers,
such as for example vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers,
vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl ace-
tate/butyl maleate/ isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl
vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof,
uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids,
acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/acrylate
copolymers, octyl acrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert.butyl
aminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate
copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl
acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/ dimethylaminoethyl
methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally
derivatized cellulose ethers,
- thickeners, such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates and
xantham gum,
- structurants, such as glucose and maleic acid,
- protein hydrolyzates, more particularly elastin, collagen,
keratin, milk protein, soya protein and wheat protein
hydrolyzates, con~n~tion products thereof with fatty
acids and quaternized protein hydrolyzates,
- perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
- solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene
glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol,
- dyes,
- antidandruff agents, such as Piroctone Olamine and Zinc
Omadine,
- other substances for pH adjustment,
- active substances, such as p~nth~nol, allantoin,
pyrroli~ne carboxylic acids, plant extracts and vitamins,
~1 . 214~86~
H 269 PCT 10
- light stabilizer~,
- consistency regulators, such as sugar esters, polyol esters
or polyol alkyl ethers,
- fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax,
paraffins and fatty alcohols,
- fatty acid alkanolamides,
- complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA and phosphonic acids,
- swelling and penetration agents, such as glycerol, propyl-
ene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbon-
ates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secnn~Ary and tertiary
phosphates,
- opacifiers, such as latex,
- pearlescers, such as ethylene glycol monostearate and
distearate,
_ propellents, such as propane/butane mixtures, N20, dimethyl
ether, C02 and air and
- antioxidants.
The present invention also relates to a process for
treating hair with the preparation rlA; m~d in any of claims 1 to 12.
Particularly preferred proces~e3 are those in which, after the
treatment, the hair is rinsed with water or with a preparation
consisting largely of water.
The following Examples are intended to illustrate the
invention.
~ x a m p 1 e 8
I. ~lor; - ic tests to ~tr- n~ color retention in colored
hair
Method
A levelling tress (natural white, 2 g, approx. 15 cm long;
obtA;nAhle from the Kerling company) was tied halfway up. To
simulate seriously damaged hair, the lower part of the tress was
alternately cold-waved twice and ultra-bleached twice. Cold waving
was carried out by treatment with an aqueous solution of a cold-wave
preparation based on ammonium thioglycolate (30 minutes) and
subsequent fixing with potassium bromate solution (10 minutes).
Super bl~Arh;ng was carried out with an aqueous solution of hydrogen
peroxide and ammonium peroxydisulfate. To simulate lightly damaged
hair, the upper part was only ultra-bleached once. The entire tress
was then colored with Poly Diadem Pflege Intensiv Tonung (shade:
mAhng~ny coral), a product of Henkel KGaA. The coloring mixture was
used in a quantity of 4 g per g tress. After a contact time of 30
-- 21~6()
-
H 269 PCT 11
minutes, the tresses were rinsed with warm water (30C) and dried
with a blow dryer. The colored hair tresses were then stored for
4 days at room temperature.
After colorimetric determination of the zero values, the
hair tresses were treated with the test mixture 6 times for 1
minute, the tresses being thoroughly rinsed with water (30C) after
each treatment and dried with a blow dryer. The tresses were then
colorimetrically evaluated using a Datacolor T~fl~h with D65 light
(daylight). The sample to be evaluated was cl _cd to the spectral
photometer and the remission values were measured over the visible
light range from 390 to 700 nm at intervals of 10 nm and processed
by computer. The computer program determined the standard color
values according to the CIE system (Commission Internationale de
L'Eclairage), corresponding to DIN 5033, and converted them into
color intervals according to DIN 6174. The measured values shown
in the following are all averages of 4 measuring points per tress
half.
The following values were determined:
Total color interval DE (relative to the zero value)
Levelling L (difference between the total
color intervals DE after the
treatment of seriously damaged
and lightly damaged hair)
The compositions of the mixtures tested and the results
obtained are set out in Tables 1 and 2 below.
~i ` 214~860
m In ~ m In ~ O O
.
o o o rl r ~
n u~ ~ ~ In u~ ,I r r
O ~ O O ~ ~D dl
A
U7 ~ ~ ~1 o
~ O O r~ r u~
O co m ~ . â
,~ .... I I . ... ~c
o ~ ,1 ~ r ~ ,,
o C
,¢ . ~ ~ ~ a~ a~ o
~ ~ O N o ~ r
a~
I ~:;
N ~ O ~ ~1 ~ r ~ -- ,
c~ o
~1 o ~
~ ~ o ~ o ~ ~ ~ ~ _,
r D ,D
o r r u~ a
~o ~ ~ o ~ ,i ~ r ~ ~ ~
a
o c~
O ~^~ o o o v ~ n ~ O ~ ~ â
a~
~P f~ C
D E~ ~
a tJ D
~ ' '1
a~ C ~ ~
S~
f~ ~ aD a, --
rq r^ ~ ~ ~ In n a
u a~ + r_ ~
a 5~ C a
~ ~ r r-- _
S ~D , ~ ~
~ a c~ ~ n t~ ~ 1
f~
¢ ~ n O ,~
~ '~ 0~ '^ s~ '- '~ ,~ a~ -~ aD
a~ a) ~ t~ r- U . ~ >1
r~ ~ C ~
m E~ ~ t ~ a a ~ r; a a ~ r~
H 269 PCT 13 ~-.
Table 2 ~quantities in parts by weiqht]
Component / mixture B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9 B10B11
Stenol~ 1618 1.81.8 1.8 1.8 1.81.81.8 1.81.8 1.8 1.8
Tegoamid~S 187 1.61.6 1.6 1.6 1.61.61.6 1.61.6 1.6 1.6
Cutina~CPa 1.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.01.0
1,2-Propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 2.02.02.0 2.02.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Lactic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.50.50.5 0.50.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Polychol~5 0.5 - 0.5 1.0 - - - - 0.5 0.5
Dehymuls~SMO9 0.5 - - - 0.51.0 - - 0.5 - 0.5
Monomuls~90 0 18 0.5 - - - - - 0.5 1.0 - 0.5 0.5
Perfume oil, preservative, water ~----------------------- ad 100 --------------------~
DE (lightly damaged hair) 2.5 4.7 4.2 3.8 4.1 3.5 4.1 3.9 3.1 3.5 3.3
DE (seriously damaged hair) 3.7 9.5 7.5 6.8 7.8 7.0 7.6 6.7 5.4 5.7 5.5
L 3.2 7.6 3.3 5.4 3.7 6.3 3.5 4.3 4.44.3 4.0
All mixtures were adjusted to pH 4.0 with citric acid
7 N,N-dimethyl-N'-stearoyl-1,3-~ m;nopropane (CTFA name: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
(GOLDSCHMIDT) C3
8 Ester of saturated long-chain fatty alcohols and fatty acids, primarily palmitic acid
cetyl ester (CTFA name: Cetyl Palmitate) (HENKEL)
9 Sorbitan monooleate (HENKEL)
~ ~ 2 1 ~ ~ 8 ~ O
H 269 PCT 14
II. ~pl ;C~t;t~n r 1~
The quantities in the following Examples are ~ by weight.
1) Hair rinse
Stenol01618 1.8
Tegoamid~S 18 1.6
1,2-Propylene glycol 1.0
Citric acid 0.6
Polychol~5 0.5
Dehymuls0SSO 0.15
Mon( l18~90 0 18 0.2
Perfume oil, water ad 100
The rinse had a pH value of 3.8.
2) Hair rin~e
Stenol~1618 1.8
Tegoamid~S18 1.5
1,2-Propylene glycol 1.2
Lactic acid 0.5
Polychol05 0.8
Dehymuls0SMO 0.3
~nn~ 1 ~090 0 18 0 5
Perfume oil, waterad 100
The rinse had a pH value of 4Ø
3) Hair rinse
Stenol~1618 1.8
Stepantex0VS go10 1.8
1,2-Propylene glycol 0.7
Citric acid o.g
Polychol05 0.5
Dehymuls~SSO 0.3
Monomllls090 0 18 0.3
Perfume oil, dye, water ad 100
The rinse had a pH value of 4.8.
0 1o N-methyl-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N-di-(tallowacyloxyethyl)-
ammonium methosulfate (90~ active substance in isopropanol)
(STEPAN)
4) Hair rin~e
Stenol~1618 2.5
2145~60
E 269 PCT 15
Eumulgin0B 11l l.O
Eumulgin0B 2l2 l.O
f Cutina~CP l.O
Eutanol~G 13 0.5
Polawax0GP 2Ool4 0.75
Abil0Quat 327015 0.5
Dow Corning0929-Emulsionl6 2.6
Polychol~5 l.O
Dehymuls0SMO 0.6
Mono~l-l809O O 18 0.5
Citric acid 0.02
Water ad lOO
The rinse had a pH value of 4Ø
Cetostearyl alcohol cont~;n~ng approx. 12 mol EO (CTFA name:
Ceteareth-12) (~F1lNKT~.T,)
2 Cetostearyl alcohol containing approx. 20 mol EO (CTFA name:
Ceteareth-20) (~T~NKT~T,)
1l Cnn~n~Ation product of saturated liquid fatty alcohols,
primarily decyl alcohol, prepared by the Guerbet reaction
(CTFA name: Octyl Dodecanol) (HENKEL)
14 Stearyl alcohol/polyethylene glycol stearate mixture (CTFA
name: Stearyl Alcohol (and) PEG-Stearate) (CRODA)
1S Diquaternary polymethyl siloxane (CTFA name: Quaternium-80)
(GOLDSCHMIDT)
6 Aminofunctional polydimethyl siloxane (35~ active substance)
(DOW COR~lNG)
5) Hair rinse
Rewoquat0W 7500l7 1.1
Lanette Ola 3.0
Eumulgin0B 1 0.8
Eumulgin~B 2 1.6
Cutina0GMSl9 0.5
Eutanol0G l.O
Polychol05 2.0
Dehymul80sMs2o
Mon~ ls09O O 18 1.5
Water ad lOO
7 1-Methyl-2-nortallow alkyl-3-tallow fatty acid amidoethyl
imidazolinium methosulfate (approx. 75~ active substance)
(REWO)
la Mixture of higher saturated fatty alcohols, primarily cetyl
. ~ 21~58BO
H 269 PCT 16
alcohol and stearyl alcohol (CTFA name: Cetearyl Alcohol)
( ~7~1~T . )
g Glycerol monostearate (CTFA name: Glyceryl Stearate)
(T~NTC~ZT.)
20 Sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan Stearate)
NK~T . )
6) Hair rin~e
Stenol~91618 2.5
Paraffin oil perliq. 2.5
Dehydol~100 0.5
Dehyquart~DA 2.4
Polychol'lD5 3.0
Dehymuls'~9SSO 0.8
Monomuls~990 0 18 1.0
Water ad 100
The rinse had a pH value of 4.5.
7) Hair r~n~e
Stenol~91618 3.5
Cutina~9GMS 1.0
Eutanol~G 2.0
Eumulgin'l!~B 321 1.4
Span~2022 1.6
Akypoquat~13123 0.7
Dow Corning'!D200 Fluid, 0.65 mm2 s-1 24 1.0
Polychol~5 1.5
Dehymul8~lDsMsla O.7
Monomuls~90 0 18 0.8
Lactic acid 0.8
Water ad 100
The rinse had a pH value of 3.5.
21 Cetostearyl alcohol cont~;n;ng approx. 30 mol ethylene oxide
(CTFA name: Ceteareth-30) (HENKEL)
22 Sorbitan monolaurate (ATLAS)
23 Quaternary ammonium compound based on trimethyl
amine/epichlorohydrin/behenic acid (70~ active substance)
(CHEM-Y)
2~ Hexamethyl disiloxane (CTFA name: Hexamethyl Bi-siloxane)
(DOW CORN lN(:; )
8) .~l _-O
Texapon'9N 2525 43.o
,,~t ~ 2145$60
H 269 PCT 17
Dehyton~!9K26 10.0
Plantaren~-120027 4.0
Euperlana~PK 300023 1.6
Arquad~31629 0.8
Polychol~203 3.0
Dehymulsa~SML31 1.5
nom~ )90 0 18 1.0
Glucamate~9DOE 12032 0.5
Sodium chloride 0.2
Water ad 100
2s Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 28~ active substance;
CTFA name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (HENKEL)
26 Fatty acid amide derivative, betaine structure, correspond-
ing to the formula R-CONH(CH2)3N~(CH3)2(CH2COO- (approx. 30
active substance; CTFA name: Cocoamidopropyl Betaine)
(r~NK~r~ )
27 Cl2-C16 alkyl glucoside, degree of oligomerization 1.4 (ap-
prox. 50~ active substance; CTFA name: Lauryl Polyglycoside
(~r~NK~T~)
2s Liquid dispersion of pearle~cers and amphosurfactant (ap-
prox. 62~ active ~ubstance; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate
(and) Glycerin (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocoamidopropyl Beta-
ine) (~NR~r,)
29 Tri-Cl6-alkyl methyl ammonium chloride (AKZO)
30 Lanolin alcohol + 20 ethylene oxide (CTFA name: Laneth-20)
(CRODA)
31 Sorbitan monolaurate (HENKEL)
32 Ethoxylated methyl glucoside dioleate (CTFA name: PEG-120
Methyl Glucose Dioleate)(AMERCHOL)
9) .~1 -o
Texapon~N 7033 21.0
Plantaren~-1200 8.0
Genamin0DSAC34 1.2
Cutinaa~EGMS3s 0.6
Polychol'lD20 2.0
Dehymuls0SMO 2.0
Mnnom ~ 90 0 18 1.5
Antil~14136 1.3
Sodium chloride 0.2
Water ad 100
33 Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 72~ active substance)
(T~NR~r)
` ~ ` 21~60
H 269 PCT 18
3~ Dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride (HOECHST)
Ethylene glycol monostearate (approx. 25-35~ monoester, 60-
70~ diester; CTFA name: Glycol Stearate) (T~F:NRF~T,)
36 Polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate (40~ active sub-
stance: CTFA name: Propylene Glycol (and) PEG 55 Propylene
Glycol Oleate) (GOLDSCHMIDT)
10) .~ _ _o
Texapon~DK 14 S37 50.0
Dehyton~9K 10.0
Akypo~l9RLM 100 NV38 4.5
Polymer P1 acc. to DE 39 29 973* 0.6
Cutina'~'AGS39 2.0
D-Panthenol 0.5
Glucose 1.0
Salicylic acid 0.4
Sodium chloride 0.5
Polychola~20 2.5
Dehymuls~SSO 1.0
r~nn~ 5990 0 18 2.5
Water ad 100
The shampoo had a pH value of 5.2.
* Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/ acrylic acid
copolymer neutralized with sodium hydroxide
3' Sodium lauryl myristyl ether sulfate (approx. 2896 active
substance; CTFA name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate) (~NRT1~r.)
3s C12 1~ fatty alcohol + 10 ethylene oxide acetic acid sodium
salt (22~ active substance; CTFA name: Sodium Laureth-ll
Carboxylate) (CHEM-Y)
39 Ethylene glycol stearate (approx. 5-1596 monoester, 85-959
diester; CTFA name: Glycol Distearate) (T~ T-)
11) .~ _ - o
Texapon~DK 14 S 25.0
TexapontDSB 3~ 7.5
Eucarol~'TA4~ 12.0
Akypo~RLM 100 NV g.o
Dehyton~AB 3042 8.3
Polymer P1 acc. to DE 39 29 973 0.6
Elfacos'19GT 282S43 0.5
Polychol~20 4.0
Dehymuls~SMS 1.0
--~ 21~60
H 269 PCT 19
~nno~nls090 0 18 1.5
Sodium chloride 0.5
Water ad 100
The shampoo had a pH value of 5Ø
40 Sulfosuccinic acid semiester based on an alkyl polyglycol
ether, di-Na salt (approx. 40~ active substance; CTFA name:
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) (HENKEL)
41 Lauryl alcohol+7 ethylene oxide tartrate sodium salt (ap-
prox. 25~ active substance; CTFA name: Sodium Laureth-7
Tartrate) (AUSICHEM)
42 Fatty amine derivative, betaine structure (approx. 30
active substance; CTFA name: Coco-Betaine) (HENKEL)
43 Tallow alcohol+60 ethylene oxide myristyl ether (CTFA name:
Talloweth-60 Myristyl Glycol) (AKZO)
12) .~
Texapon~N 70 19.4
AkyporRLM 100 NV 9.1
Dehyton~K 6.7
Plantaren~-1200 4.0
Merquat~55044 3.8
D-Panthenol 0.5
Glucose 1.0
Benzoic acid 0.5
Polychol~20 2.5
Dehymuls~SMO 0.7
Mnnn~llls~90 0 18 0.8
Sodium chloride 0.7
Water ad 100
The shampoo had a pH value of 5Ø
~4 Dimethyl diallyl~mmon;um chloride/acrylamide copolymer (8
active substance; CTFA name: Polyquaternium 7) (MOBIL OIL)
13) Tonic pack (removable by rinsing)
Stenol~1618 3.0
Eumulgin~B 1 0.5
Eumulgin~B 2 0.5
Cutina~CP 1.0
Eutanol~G 1.5
Hostacerin~PN 7345 0.004
Dow Corning~929 Emulsion 2.9
Polychol~5 1.5
~ ~ ~ 2~ s~n
H 269 PCT 20
Dehymuls~SSO 1.0
Mon~rllls~90 0 18 1.0
Water ad 100
45 Polyacrylic acid sodium salt copolymer (HOECHST)
214S~O
H 269 PCT 21
14) Dyeing cream
C12-18 Fatty alcohol 1.2
Lanette 0 4.0
Eumulgin~B 2 0.8
Cutina~ KD 1645 2.0
Sodium sulfite 0.5
L(+) Ascorbic acid 0.5
Ammonium sulfate 0.5
1,2-Propylene glycol 1.2
Polymer JR~40 o47
p-Aminophenol 0.85
p-Tolylene ~lAm;ne 0.85
2-Methyl resorcinol 0.14
6-Methyl-m-aminophenol 0.42
Polychol05 0.5
Dehymuls~SMS 0.3
Monom~ 90 0 18 0.3
jA 1.5
Water ad 100
~6 Fatty acid mono/diglyceride emulsifier mixture (CTFA name:
Tallow Glycerides (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Potassium
Stearate) (HENKEL)
~7 Quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (Union Carbide)
The dyeing cream had a pH value of 10Ø It gave the hair a
strong red tint.
15) Dyeing cream
Texapon0N25 25.0
C1218 fatty alcohol 2.0
Hydrenol~D48 6.5
Ammonium ~ulfate l.o
L(+) Ascorbic acid 0.4
Sodium sulfite 0.5
p-Aminophenol 0.08
p-Tolylene diamine 0.6
Resorcinol 0.11
4-Chlororesorcinol 0.23
6-Methyl-m-aminophenol 0.06
,pmmon; A 1 . 2
Water ad 100
This mixture component had a pH value of lO.o.
21~5~0
_
H 269 PCT 22
15a) Develc~er . 1A;Ajn fordyeing creams 14) and 15)
Texapon~N 25 2.1
Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12.0
Turpinal~l9SL49 1.7
Latekoll0Ds 12.0
Polychol'l)20 0.9
Dehymuls0SMO 0.5
~nne,rlll 9~1990 0 18 0 7
Water ad 100
.8 C16/18 fatty alcohol
49 1-Hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (609~ active substance;
CTFA name: Etidronic Acid) (HENKEL)
50 Acrylate/methacrylic acid copolymer (25% active substance)
(BASF)
The dyeing cream gave the hair a brown tint.
16) Tinting ,~
Texapon~N 70 14.0
Dehyton'l~K 10.0
Akypo~9RLM 45 NVs1 14.7
Plantaren~-1200 , 4,0
Polymer P1 acc. to DE 39 29 973 0.3
25 Cremophor~RH 40s2 0.8
Dye C.I. 12 719 0.02
Dye C.I. 12 251 0.02
Dye C.I. 12 250 0.04
Dye C.I. 56 059 0.03
30 PHB ester 0.25
Perfume oil q.s.
Polychol~lD20 1.6
Dehymuls~SML 1.2
Mono~ D9o 0 18 1.1
35 Water ad 100
51 Lauryl alcohol+4.5 ethylene oxide acetic acid sodium salt
(20.496 active substance) (CHEM-Y)
s2 Castor oil, hydrogenated + 45 ethylene oxide (CTFA name:
40 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) (BASF)
When the hair was washed with this tinting shampoo, it was
left bright light blond in color.
45 17) P~- Ant wave cream
J ~ r 2 1 4 ~i ~ 6 0
H 269 PCT 23
Wave cream
Plantaren$-800s3 5.0
Thioglycolic acid 8.0
Turpinal~SL 0.5
~m~n~ (25~) 7.3
Ammonium carbonate 3.0
Cetostearyl alcohol 5.0
Guerbet alcohol 4.0
Polychol~5 3.0
Dehymuls~SMO 2.0
Monomuls~90 0 18 l.o
Perfume oil q.5.
Water ad 100
The wave cream had a pH value of 8Ø
53 C8-Clo alkyl glucoside, degree of oligomerization 1.6 (approx.
60~ active ~ubstance) (~T~NTC~T.)
~ r, 21~S8GO
H 269 PCT 24
Fixinq solution
Plantaren0-8OO 5.0
HydLoye~lated castor oil 2.0
Potassium bromate 3.5
Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3
Citric acid 0.2
Merquat0550 0.5
Polychol020 1.5
Dehymuls0SMO l.O
~n~m.lls~sO O 18 l.O
Perfume oil q.s.
Water ad lOO
The fixing solution had a pH value of 3.8.
18) Liquid ~- ^~t wave
Wave lotion
Plantaren0-1200 3.0
Thioglycolic acid 8.0
Dehyton~K 3.3
~ (25~) 6.4
Ammonium carbonate 3.0
Lamequat0Ls4 2.9
Nitrilotriacetic acid 0.3
Kerasol0 55 1 . O
Dyes q.s.
Perfume oil q.s.
Water ad lOO
0 54 Cationized collagen hydrolyzate (approx. 35~ active sub-
stance; CTFA name: Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed
Collagen) (HENKEL)
5~ Protein hydrolyzate, average molecular weight approx.
lOO,OOO Dalton (13~ active substance) (CRODA)
-
21'~5860
H 269 PCT 25
Fixinq solution
Plantaren0-1200 6.0
Texapon0N 25 5.4
Potassium bromate 3.5
Xanthan gum 0 3
Citric acid 0.1
Dehyquart~Es6 1.O
Polychol~20 0.8
Dehymuls0SSO 0.8
Mnnomllls~90 0 18 1.0
Perfume oil q.s
Water ad 100
56 N-(2-hydroxyhexadecyl-1)-N,N-dimethyl-N(2-hydroxyethyl)-
ammonium chloride (28~ active sub.ctance) (HENKEL)
19) Gel ~e~l -nt wave
Wave qel
Plantaren0-1200 4.0
Thioglycolic acid 8.0
Thiolactic acid 3,0
Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.7
Turpinal0SL 0,5
~ ~ (25~) 9.3
Ammonium carbonate 3.0
Lame~uat~L 2.9
Kerasol0 0 5
Perfume oil ~.s
Water ad 100
Fixinq solution
Plantarenr-1200 6.0
Hydrogen peroxide (50~) 12.0
Texapon0N 25 3.6
Turpinal~SL 0.7
Panthenol 1.0
Ajidew0N 5057 4,0
Xanthan gum 0.1
Polychol020 0 7
Dehymuls0SMO o g
Monomll18~90 0 18 0.8
Water - ad 100
The fixing solution had a pH value of 3.5.
,~ 214~860
H 269 PCT 26
57 DL-2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid sodium salt (approx. 50
active substance; CTFA name: Sodium PCA) (AJINOMOTO)
