Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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Hair Coloring Compositions
Technical Field
This invention relates to hair coloring compositions and processes for
coloring hair, and more especially to hair coloring compositions
comprising an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent in combination with an
oxidative hair coloring agent at an acidic pH of between about I and about
4.5.
Background of the Invention
The desire to alter the color of human hair is not a facet of modem times.
Since the days of the Roman Empire the color of human hair has been
routinely altered to accommodate the changes of fashion and style.
However the attainment of precise initial colors which are retained by the
hair for a desirable period has remained a more elusive goal. The
difficulties in the development of hair coloring compositions which can
deliver precise long-lasting colors are in part due to the inherent structure
of the hair itself and in part due to the necessary conditions of effective
hair coloration processes.
In general, the condition and structure of human hair is not regular along
the length of the hair shaft. Human hair is subject to various chemical and
mechanical treatments such as combing, brushing) shampooing, heating,
perming as well as exposure to the sun. As such, the hair at the ends of the
hair shaft will generally exhibit greater signs of damage relative to the new
growth close to the scalp. This damage can lead to inconsistent coloration
when the hair is dyed due to irregular uptake of the hair coloring agents
along the length of the hair shaft.
Once the hair has been colored there is a desire for the color to be resistant
. to fading, as occasioned by the actions of washing (also known as wash
fastness), perspiration, hair spray and other exterior factors such as the
action of the sun, and further that the color be retained in a consistent
manner for a predictable period of time. Additionally damage to the hair
that can lead to irregular dye uptake as discussed above, can lead to
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increased fading of the damaged portions of the hair and consequently,
irregular levels of color fade over time. An additional difficulty commonly
associated with the dyeing of human hair is the need for dye systems
which avoid any adverse effect on the hair and skin of the user, such as
brittle hair, or, irritation of the skin, or, staining (coloring) of the skin.
Thus, it would be desirable to develop a hair coloring composition which
exhibits reduced fade, provides improved resistance to wash out during a
regular cleansing regimen, can deliver substantially consistent hair color
results throughout the hair, which has reduced irritant effect on the skin ,
which has reduced staining on the skin, which has reduced adverse effects
on the hair of the user and also to develop a convenient and easy-to-use
method for the delivery of such a hair coloring composition to the hair.
Over the years significant effort has been directed towards the elimination
of many of the problems associated with the dyeing of human hair.
Various approaches to hair dyeing have been developed, these include)
direct action dyes, natural dyes, metallic dyes and oxidative dyes.
To color human or animal hair using oxidative dye technology the hair is
generally treated with a mixture of oxidative hair coloring agents and an
oxidising agent. Hydrogen peroxide is the most commonly used oxidising
agent. However, in addition to oxidising the oxidative coloring agents,
hydrogen peroxide treatment of the hair can also solubilise and decolorise
the colored melanin component in the hair which can lead to undesirable
hair qualities, such as brittleness and hair damage. This is in part due to
the conditions of conventional peroxide treatment, as part of the hair
coloring process, when conducted at high pH (> pH 9), extended exposure
(from 10 to 60 minutes) and a relatively high concentration of oxidising
solution (between about 20% to about 40% volume of oxygen i.e. about 6 -
12% wt.) in order to deliver effective dye oxidisation.
Oxidative hair coloring agents and peroxygen oxidising agents can be used
to deliver a variety of hair colors to the hair. However substantial
improvement is needed in the areas of color saturation, color development,
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precise initial color consistency, improved wash fastness, improved hair
condition and levels of hair damage.
Thus there is a need for oxidative hair coloring compositions which
- effectively dye the hair but avoid or reduce damage to the hair, which can
color the hair effectively and avoid or reduce irritation and/or staining to
' the skin of the user.
Typically, hair coloring compositions containing oxidative hair coloring
agents are formulated at high pH (from about pH 9 to about pH 1?) and
commonly contain, in addition to the oxidative hair coloring agents and an
inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent, peroxide activating agents and a
variety of additional cosmetic, coloring agent and peroxygen oxidising
agent stabilising agents. It is also known that enhanced oxidative hair
coloring agent oxidation can be achieved via the use of a hair swelling
agent (HSA). Such HSA's enhance the oxidising and coloring process by
swelling the hair fibres to aid both the diffusion of the peroxygen oxidising
agent and the oxidative hair coloring agents into the hair and enabling
faster, more thorough dye oxidisation and hair coloring. A common HSA
is an aqueous (alkaline) solution containing a source of ammonia, such as
ammonium hydroxide. However ammonia can cause skin irritation and in
addition has an undesirable odour and can cause lacrimatory effects.
Thus, it would be desirable to develop a hair coloring composition having
desirable odour characteristics comprising oxidative hair coloring agents
which delivers improved hair coloring benefits and/or delivers faster hair
coloring without the need for an HSA.
It has now been found that the combination of inorganic peroxygen
oxidising agents with one or more oxidative hair coloring agents at a pH
below the internal pH of hair, between about pH 1 to about pH 4.5, and
optionally, certain, additional oxidising agents, in hair coloring
. compositions can deliver excellent initial hair color in combination with
improved color and wash fastness of the hair color over time, desirable
color saturation and vividness attributes, reduced hair damage, reduced
skin irritation, reduced skin staining and more efficient dyeing.
Furthermore, it has been found that the efficiency of color development
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(color change) from the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents and
particular oxidative hair coloring agents of the present invention is
improved under the low pH conditions according to the present invention.
In addition, it has been found that the hair coloring compositions according
to the present invention can deliver these excellent hair coloring attributes
results with minimal hair damage, at low pH (about 1 to about 4.5 ).
It is an object of the present invention to provide low pH hair coloring
compositions which deliver the combination of improved hair coloring
attributes, such as, longer lasting color (reduced fade), initial color
generation, increased color uptake and color consistency across hair types.
Hair types as defined herein means hair of varying age and condition i.e.
virgin untreated, grey, permed, bleached etc.
It is an additional object of the present invention to provide low pH hair
coloring compositions which have reduced levels of skin irritation and/or
skin staining versus conventional high pH systems and which impart
minimal damage to the hair fibres and reduced staining of skin in
combination with an acceptable odor.
It is a still further object of the present invention to provide low pH hair
coloring compositions which exhibit increased efficacy (improved color
development). Color development as defined herein, means, the change in
the hair color, expressed in terms of Delta E, as defined in the
Experimental section herein after. It is a yet further object of the present
invention to provide coloring compositions with reduced damage to the
skin and/or hair which can deliver equivalent color development (versus
conventional high pH systems) in combination with improved
washfastness and color consistency while using less dye and/or less of the
oxidising agent.
It has been found that the above objects can be met by the low pH hair
coloring compositions according to the present invention.
In addition, conventional, high pH, hair coloring compositions typically
comprise at least two separately packaged components, which are
generally, oxidising agent (at low pH) and oxidative hair coloring agents
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(at high pH). These separately packaged components are admixed at high
pH just prior to application to the hair. Such an admixing step can be
messy and inconvenient to the user. Typically, conventional coloring
. compositions, comprising oxidising agent and oxidative hair coloring
agent, need to be used soon after admixing due to degradation of the
. resulting coloring composition. As such, excess admixed coloring
composition is disposed of after application of the required amount to the
hair. It has been found that the oxidants) and dyes of the present
invention can be admixed in a singly packaged low pH mixture with
improved stability versus conventional, high pH, oxidative dye systems.
The singly packaged low pH coloring compositions of the present
invention are suitable for use in a multi-application format (i.e. the
consumer can use a single package for several color applications over a
period of time). It has also been found that) at low pH) both the oxidising
agent and oxidative hair coloring agents are stable over time) and can be
stored as such.
Thus it is another object of the present invention to provide singly
packaged hair coloring compositions which are fast acting, simple to use,
and re-usable.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide hair coloring
compositions comprising stable, separately packaged oxidants) and
oxidative hair coloring agents) which remain stable at low pH both when
stored individually or when mixed.
All percentages are by weight of the final compositions in the form
intended to be used unless specified otherwise.
Summary of the Invention
The subject of the present invention is a hair coloring composition suitable
for the treatment of human or animal hair.
According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a hair
coloring composition comprising:
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(a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent; and
(b) an oxidative hair coloring agent;
wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1 to
about 4.5 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) has a pH in the
range of from about 1 to about 4.5.
It is to be understood that the percentage weights of the composition
components herein are expressed in terms of the total composition, and
includes the composition when in the form of intended use.
According to a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided:
A method for coloring hair wherein a hair coloring mixture is present in a
single package and applied directly to the hair and wherein the hair
coloring mixture comprises:
(a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent; and
(b) an oxidative hair coloring agent;
wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b), is in the range of from about 1 to
about 4.5 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b), has a pH in the
range of from about 1 to about 4.5.
According to a still further aspect of the present invention, there is
provided:
A method for coloring hair wherein a hair coloring composition is present
as separately packaged components (a) and (b) and wherein the hair
coloring composition comprises:
(a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent wherein the pH of
(a), is in the range of from about 1 to about 4.5; and;
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(b) an oxidative hair coloring agent wherein the pH of (b), is in
the range of from about 1 to about 4.5;
wherein each of (a) and (b) are stable at pHs in the range of from about 1
to about 4.5 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and {b) is stable over
time and has a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 4.5.
Detailed Description of the Invention
As used herein the term 'hair' to be treated may be 'living' i.e. on a living
body or may be 'non-living' i.e. in a wig, hairpiece or other aggregation of
non-living fibres, such as those used in textiles and fabrics. Mammalian,
preferably human hair is preferred. However wool, fur and other melanin
containing fibres are suitable substrates for the compositions according to
the present invention.
As used herein the term 'hair coloring composition' is used in the broad
sense in that it is intended to encompass compositions containing the
combinations herein of a low pH (from about 1 to about 4.5) mixture of
inorganic peroxygen based dye oxidising agent and an oxidative coloring
agent. Moreover, it is also intended to include complex compositions
which contain other components which may or may not be active
ingredients. Thus, the term 'hair coloring composition' is intended to apply
to compositions which contain, in addition to a mixture of active oxidising
agents and oxidative coloring agents, such things as, by way of example,
oxidising aids, sequestrants, stabilisers, thickeners, buffers) carriers,
surfactants, solvents) antioxidants, polymers, non-oxidative dyes and
conditioners.
As discussed above, the hair coloring compositions according to the
present invention comprise an inorganic peroxygen based oxidising agent
(a), in combination with an oxidative hair coloring agent (b) wherein the
pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1 to about 4.5 and
wherein the pH of the combined mixture of (a) and (b) is in the range of
from about 1 to about 4.5. Preferably, the pH of either (a) and/or (b) is in
the range of from about 1.5 to about 4.5, more preferably from about 2 to
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about 4.4, most preferably from about 3.6 to about 4.3 and especially from
about 3.8 to about 4.2 and wherein the preferred pH of the combined
mixture of (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1.5 to about 4.5, more
preferably from about 2 to about 4.4, most preferably from about 3.6 to
about 4.3 and especially from about 3.8 to about 4.2. In addition to the
inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent, the compositions may optionally
comprise (among other ingredients) a preformed organic peroxyacid
oxidising agent. Organic peroxyacid as used herein is intended to cover
any organic peroxy acid material which can act either alone or in
combination with a peroxygen oxidising agent to oxidise dye precursors.
The Dye Oxidisation and Hair Coloring, Processes
It is understood by those familiar in the art that to successfully color
human or animal hair with oxidative dyes it is generally necessary to treat
the hair with a mixture of oxidising agent and oxidative hair coloring
agent. As herein before discussed the most common oxidising agent is
hydrogen peroxide.
Hydrogen peroxide has a pKa in the range of from about 11.2 to about
11.6, and) as such is generally used as a dye oxidising agent at pHs in the
range of from about 9 to about 12. Surprisingly, it has now been found
that improved color development is observed in combination with
improved color washfastness, in the low pH oxidative systems according
to the present invention, at pHs in the range of from about pH 1 to about
pH 4.5, preferably from about pH 3.8 to about pH 4.3, more preferably
from pH 3.8 to about pH 4.2.
Inorganic Oxidising, Agents
The compositions of the invention comprise as an essential feature at least
one inorganic oxidising agent (hereinafter called 'inorganic peroxygen
oxidising agent'}. The inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent should be safe
and effective for use in the compositions herein. Preferably, the inorganic
peroxygen oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be soluble in the
compositions according to the present invention when in liquid form
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andlor in the form intended to be used. Preferably, inorganic peroxygen
oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be water-soluble. Water
soluble oxidising agents as defined herein means agents which have a
solubility to the extent of about l Og in 1000m1 of deionised water at
25°C
("Chemistry" C. E. Mortimer. 5th Edn. p277).
The inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents useful herein are generally
inorganic peroxygen materials capable of yielding peroxide in an aqueous
solution. Inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents are well known in the art
and include hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as
sodium periodate, sodium perbromate and sodium peroxide, and inorganic
perhydrate salt oxidising compounds, such as the alkali metal salts of
perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates, persulphates and the
like. These inorganic perhydrate salts may be incorporated as
monohydrates, tetrahydrates etc. Mixtures of two or more of such
inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents can be used if desired. While alkali
metal bromates and iodates are suitable for use herein the bromates are
preferred. Highly preferred for use in the compositions according to the
present invention is hydrogen peroxide.
It has been found that, under the low pH conditions according to the
present invention, it is possible to deliver both improved initial color
development, color consistency, washfastness and color intensity versus
conventional, high pH, systems (using equivalent levels of peroxide and
dyes) and also equivalent color development (detailed hereinafter in the
Experimental Data section in terms of Delta E) versus conventional
systems at high pH, while using substantially less of the inorganic
peroxygen oxidising agent (up to 75% less) as well as delivering
equivalent color development versus conventional, high pH, systems while
using substantially less oxidative hair coloring agent (up to 50% less).
Thus, the low pH hair coloring compositions according to the present
invention can be formulated to reduce the level of damage to the hair and
levels of skin irritation and staining. Furthermore, as the low pH hair
coloring compositions according to the present invention can be
formulated without ammonia there are no ammonia related odor or skin
irritation negatives associated with these compositions.
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The inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent is present in the compositions
according to the present invention at a molar level of from about 0.0003
moles (per 100g of composition) to less than about 0.09 moles (per 100g
of composition), preferably, the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent is
present at a molar level of from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.08 moles,
more preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.06 moles, even more
preferably from about 0.0003 moles to about 0.04 moles, most preferably
from about 0.0003 mole to about 0.03 moles, especially from about 0.0003
moles to about 0.02 moles and most especially from about 0.0003 moles to
about 0.015 moles (per 100g of composition).
In preferred compositions according to the present invention the inorganic
peroxygen oxidising agent is present at a level of from about 0.01 % to less
than about 3%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 2.5%, more
preferably from about 0.01 % to about 2%, even more preferably from
about 0.01 % to about 1 %, most preferably from about 0.01 % to about
0.8%, especially from about 0.01% to about 0.55% and especially from
about 0.01 % to about 0.5% by weight of composition.
Preformed organic peroxXacid
The compositions according to the present invention may, optionally)
contain) in addition to the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent(s), one or
more preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agents.
Suitable additional) optional, organic peroxyacid oxidising agents for use
in the coloring compositions according to the present invention have the
general formula:
R - C (O) OOH
wherein R is selected from saturated or unsaturated, substituted or
unsubstituted, straight or branched chain, alkyl, aryl or alkaryl groups
with from 1 to 14 carbon atoms.
A class of organic peroxyacid compounds suitable for use herein are the
amide substituted compounds of the following general formulae:
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R1 -... C __.- N ..__._ R2 ___ C ___ OOH R1 ___ N _-_ C __ R2 .C __ OOH
O R5 O or R5 O O
wherein R 1 is, a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl group, or an
aryl group, having from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, R2 is, a saturated or
- unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl group, or an aryl group, having from 1 to 14
carbon atoms, and RS is H or, a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkaryl
group, or an aryl group, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Amide
substituted organic peroxyacid compounds of this type are described in
EP-A-0,170,386.
Other suitable organic peroxyacid oxidising agents include peracetic,
pernanoic, nonylamidoperoxycaproic acid (NAPCA), perbenzoic, m-
chloroperbenzoic, di-peroxy-isophthalic, mono-peroxyphthalic,
peroxylauric, hexanesulphonyl peroxy propionic, N,N-phthaloylamino
peroxycaproic, monoper succinic, nonanoyloxybenzoic, dodecanedioyl-
monoperoxybenzoic, nonylamide of peroxyadipic acid, diacyl and
tetraacylperoxides, especially diperoxydodecanedioic acid,
diperoxytetradecanedioic acid and diperoxyhexadecanedioic acid and
derivatives thereof. Mono- and diperazelaic acid, mono- and
diperbrassylic acid and N-phthaloylaminoperoxicaproic acid and
derivatives thereof are also suitable for use herein.
The preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agents should be safe and
effective for use in the compositions herein. Preferably, the preformed
organic peroxyacid oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be soluble
in the compositions according to the present invention when in liquid form
and in the form intended to be used. Preferably, preformed organic
peroxyacid oxidising agents suitable for use herein will be water-soluble.
Water soluble organic peroxyacid oxidising agents as defined herein
means agents which have a solubility to the extent of about l Og in 1000m1
of deionised water.at 25°C ("Chemistry" C. E. Mortimer. Sth Edn. p277).
The preferred peroxyacid materials suitable for use herein are selected
from peracetic and pernanoic acids and mixtures thereof.
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The preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agent, where present, is
present at a molar level of from about 0.0001 moles to about 0.1 moles
(per 100g of composition), more preferably from about 0.001 moles to
about 0.05 moles, most preferably from about 0.003 moles to about 0.04
moles and especially from about 0.004 moles to about 0.03 moles per 100g
of the hair coloring composition.
The preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agent, where present, is
preferably present at a level of from about 0.01 % to about 8%, more
preferably from about 0.1 % to about 6%, most preferably from about 0.2%
to about 4%, and especially from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight of the
hair coloring composition. The weight ratio of the inorganic peroxygen
oxidising agent to the preformed organic peroxy acid is preferably in the
range of from about 0.0125:1 to about 500:1, more preferably from about
0.0125:1 to about 50:1.
In addition to the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents and the additional,
optional, preformed organic peroxyacid oxidising agents suitable for use
herein, the compositions according to the present invention may
optionally comprise additional organic peroxides such as urea peroxide,
melamine peroxide and mixtures thereof. The level of organic peroxide,
where present, is from about 0.01 % to about 3%, preferably from about
0.01 % to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1.5% and
most preferably from about 0.2% to about 1 % by weight of composition.
Hair Coloring Agents
The low pH hair coloring compositions of the present invention include as
an essential feature an oxidative hair coloring agent. Such oxidative hair
coloring agents are used in combination with the peroxide based oxidising
systems of the present invention to formulate permanent, demi-
permanent, semi-permanent or temporary hair dye compositions at low
pH.
Permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are compositions
which once applied to the hair are substantially resistant to wash-out.
Demi-permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are
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compositions which are substantially removed from the hair after up to 24
washes. Semi-permanent hair dye compositions as defined herein are
compositions which once applied to the hair are substantially removed
from the hair after up to 10 washes. Temporary hair dye compositions as
defined herein are compositions which once applied to the hair are
substantially removed from the hair after up to 2 washes. These different
types of hair coloring compositions can be formulated via the specific
combination of oxidant and/or dyes at different levels and ratios. Wash
out as defined herein is the process by which hair color is removed from
the hair over time during normal hair cleansing regimen. Washfastness
as defined herein, means, the resistance of the dyed hair to wash out.
Washfastness, as defined herein) can be measured in terms of the relative
color change in the dyed hair (Delta E) over several washes (shampoos).
Substantial removal of dye from the hair as defined herein means the
color change in the dyed hair (Delta E) is greater than about 2 after up to
washes.
The concentration of each oxidative hair coloring agent in the low pH
coloring compositions according to the present invention is from about
0.001 % to about 3% by weight and is preferably from about 0.01 % to
about ?% by weight.
The total combined level of oxidative hair coloring agents in the
compositions according to the present invention is from about 0.001 % to
about 5%, preferably from about 0.01 % to about 4%, more preferably from
about 0.1 % to about 3%, most preferably from about 0.1 % to about 1 % by
we i ght.
Typically, in conventional hair coloring compositions the total level of
oxidative hair coloring agents present in the composition is in the range of
from about 0.2 % to about 3.5 % by weight. Accordingly, the
compositions according to the present invention can display improved hair
coloring attributes, such as initial color development and initial color
consistency in combination with improved washfastness over time, when
compared to conventional, high pH, systems having similar levels of dye.
Color consistency, as used herein, means, both the relative predictability
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of the initial color development and improved color retention over time
across different hair types.
The efficacy of the oxidative dyes is improved at low pH such that the
compositions of the present invention are valuable for the delivery of good
high intensity colors (dark colors) with reduced levels of dye. In
particular, good hair coloring results in combination with equivalent color
development (versus high pH systems) can be achieved using the inorganic
peroxygen oxidising agents of the present invention and substantially less
dye versus conventional, high pH, hair coloring compositions.
Thus according to a further aspect of the present invention there is
provided a hair coloring composition comprising:
(a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent; and
(b) an oxidative hair coloring agent;
(c) a diluent suitable for application to the hair;
wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b) is in the range of from about 1 to
about 4.5 and wherein the pH of the composition is in the range of from
about 1 to about 4.5 .
As herein before described, it has also been found that the combination of
inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents with oxidative hair coloring agent at
low pH is valuable for the delivery of excellent hair coloring attributes in
combination with reduced levels of hair damage, skin irritation and skin
staining in combination with an improved odor profile (versus
conventional high pH compositions). A further benefit of the low pH
coloring compositions according to the present invention is that reduced
levels of skin staining can be observed from such compositions, versus
conventional, high pH, compositions.
Thus according to a still further aspect of the present invention there is
provided a hair coloring composition capable of delivering a light auburn
colour to light brown hair having 40% grey comprising:
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IS
(a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent;
(b) an oxidative hair coloring agent; and
(c) a diluent suitable for application to the hair;
wherein the pH of components (a) and (b) are each in the range of from
about 1 to about 4.5 and wherein the pH of the composition is in the
range of from about 1 to about 4.5 and wherein the change in level of
skin staining after product application (Delta E) is less than about 4,
preferably less than about 3, more preferably less than about 2.7. Light
brown hair having 40% grey coverage is defined in terms of L, a, b
values as having an 'L' value in the range of from about 35 to about 37,
an 'a' value in the range of from about 4.5 to about 5.5 and a 'b' value in
the range of from about 11.5 to about 12.7.
Without being limited by any particular theory, it is believed that, these
improvements (in respect of reduced skin irritation andl or staining)
result from the combination of (a) reduced levels of dyes and low pH
systems; (b) the reduction of paraphenylene diamine (PPD) contact
sensitisation at low pH (high levels of PPD have been shown to display
contact sensitisation at high pH) but not at low pH); (c) the elimination of
the formation of nitrobenzene contact sensitisers (which can occur in high
pH compositions); (d) reduced levels of skin staining at low pH versus
high pH, and; (e) the reduction in skin irritation and odor negatives as a
result of the elimination of ammonia and the use of alternative oxidising
agents in the low pH dyeing compositions according to the present
invention.
Oxidative Hair Coloring Processes
Any oxidative hair coloring agent can be used in the compositions
according to the present invention. Typically, but without intending to be
limited thereto, oxidative hair coloring agents, consist essentially of at
least two components, which are collectively referred to as dye forming
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intermediates (or precursors) . Dye forming intermediates can react in the
presence of a suitable oxidant to form a colored molecule.
The dye forming intermediates used in oxidative hair colorants include:
aromatic diamines, aminophenols, various heterocycles, phenols, napthols
and their various derivatives. These dye forming intermediates can be
broadly classified as; primary intermediates and secondary intermediates.
Primary intermediates, which are also known as oxidative dye precursors,
are chemical compounds which become activated upon oxidation and can
then react with each other and/or with couplers to form colored dye
complexes. The secondary intermediates, also known as color modifiers
or couplers, are generally colorless molecules which can form colors in
the presence of activated precursors/primary intermediates, and are used
with other intermediates to generate specific color effects or to stabilise
the color.
Primary intermediates suitable for use in the compositions and processes
herein include: aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, amino phenols and
derivatives of these aromatic compounds (e.g., N-substituted derivatives of
the amines, and ethers of the phenols). Such primary intermediates are
generally colorless molecules prior to oxidation.
While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory it is proposed
herein that the process by which color is generated from these primary
intermediates and secondary coupler compounds generally includes a
stepwise sequence whereby the primary intermediate can become activated
(by oxidation), and then enjoins with a coupler to give a dimeric,
conjugated colored species, which in tum can enjoin with another
'activated' primary intermediate to produce a trimeric conjugated colored
molecule.
Chemistry of Oxidative Hair Coloration Across pH
While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is generally
understood that conventional oxidative dyeing typically occurs between
oxidative precursor molecules, oxidative coupler molecules and a
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17
peroxygen oxidising agent at high pH (8 - 10). Typical precursors include
1,4-disubstituted benzene derivatives and typical couplers include 1,2- or
1,3-disubstituted benzene derivatives.
It is generally accepted that the pH within the hair shaft, of human hair, is
around pH 5.5 to pH 6 (C.R. Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behaviour of
Human Hair, 2nd Ed. p 157) and that the hair has an inherent buffering
capacity.
Surpisingly it has now been found that, oxidative hair coloration at pH 1 to
4.5 with oxidising agents and oxidative hair coloring agent is valuable for
the delivery of excellent initial hair color in combination with improved
color and wash fastness of the hair color over time, desirable color
saturation and vividness attributes, reduced hair damage, reduced skin
irritation, reduced skin staining and more efficient dyeing. Furthermore, it
has been found that the efficiency of color development (i.e., increased
color change) from the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents and the
oxidative hair coloring agents of the present invention is improved under
the low pH conditions according to the present invention. In addition, it
has been found that the low pH hair coloring compositions according to
the present invention can deliver these excellent hair coloring attributes
results with minimal hair damage.
It has also been found that at pH levels of from about 1.5 to about 4.5,
preferably from about 2 to about 4.4, more preferably from about 3.6 to
about 4.3, most preferably from about 3.8 to about 4.2 further
improvements in color development can be acheived.
Oxidative Dye Precursors
In general terms, oxidative dye primary intermediates include those
monomeric materials which, on oxidation, form oligomers or polymers
having extended conjugated systems of electrons in their molecular
structure. Because of the new electronic structure, the resultant oligomcrs
and polymers exhibit a shift in their electronic spectra to the visible range
and appear colored. For example, oxidative primary intermediates capable
of forming colored polymers include materials such as aniline, which has a
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single functional group and which, on oxidation, forms a series of
conjugated imines and quinoid dimers, trimers, etc. ranging in color from
green to black. Compounds such as p-phenylenediamine, which has two
functional groups, are capable of oxidative polymerization to yield higher
molecular weight colored materials having extended conjugated electron
systems. Oxidative dyes known in the art can be used in the low pH
compositions according to the present invention. A representative list of
primary intermediates and secondary couplers suitable for use herein is
found in Sagarin, "Cosmetic Science and Technology"," Interscience,
Special Ed. Vol. 2 pages 308 to 310. It is to be understood that the
primary intermediates detailed below are only by way of example and are
not intended to limit the compositions and processes herein.
The typical aromatic diamines, polyhydric phenols, amino phenols, and
derivatives thereof, described above as primary intermediates can also
have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, e.g. halogen, aldehyde,
carboxylic acid, nitro, sulfonic acid and substituted and unsubstituted
hydrocarbon groups, as well as additional substituents on the amino
nitrogen and on the phenolic oxygen, e.g. substituted and unsubstituted
alkyl and aryl groups.
Examples of suitable aromatic diamines, amino phenols, polyhydric
phenols and derivatives thereof, respectively, are compounds having the
general formulas (I), (II) and (III) below:
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R1-N-'R2
R3R4 (I)
Y/~ R5
OR
R1- N-R2
N-' R3R4 HX
Y/.~\R5
wherein Y is hydrogen, halogen, (e.g. fluorine, chlorine, bromine or
iodine), nitro, amino, hydroxyl,
O
II
-CH
-COOM or -S03M (where M is hydrogen or an alkali or alkaline earth
metal, ammonium, or substituted ammonium wherein one or more
hydrogens on the ammonium ion is replaced with a 1 to 3 carbon atom
alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical), wherein R 1, R~, R3 and R4 are the same or
different from each other and are selected from the group consisting of
hydrogen, C 1 to C4 alkyl or alkenyl and C6 to C9 aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl,
and RS is hydrogen, C 1 to C4 unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or alkenyl
wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Y, above, or
C6 to C9 unsubstituted or substituted aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl wherein the
substituents are selected from those defined as Y, above. Since the
precursors of formula (I) are amines, they can be used herein in the form of
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peroxide-compatible salts, as noted, wherein X represents peroxide-
compatible anions of the type herein before detailed. The general formula
of the salt indicated is to be understood to encompass those salts having
mono-, di-, and tri-negative anions.
Specific examples of formula (I) compounds are: o-phenylenediamine, m-
phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, 2-
iodo-p-phenylenediamine, 4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine, 2-nitro-p-
phenylenediamine, 1,3,5-triaminobenzene, 2-hydroxy-p-
phenylenediamine, 2,4-diaminobenzoic acid, sodium 2,4-diaminobenzoate,
calcium di-2,4-diaminobenzoate, ammonium 2,4-diaminobenzoate,
trimethylammonium 2,4-, diaminobenzoate, tri-(2-
hydroxyethyl)ammonium ?,4-diaminobenzoate, 2,4-diaminobenzaldehyde
carbonate, 2,4-diaminobenzensulfonic acid, potassium 2,4-
diaminobenzenesulfonate, N,N-diisopropyl-p-, phenylenediamine
bicarbonate, N,N-dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N'-(2-propenyl)-
p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-N-benzyl-
p-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N'-(3-ethylphenyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2,4-
toluenediamine, 2-ethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2-bromoethyl)-p-
phenylenediamine, 2-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine laurate, 4-(2,5-
diaminophenyl)benzaldehyde, 2-benzyl-p-phenylenediamine acetate, ?-(4-
nitrobenzyl )-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(4-methylphenyl )-p-
phenylenediamine, 2-(2,S-diaminophenyl)-5-methylbenzoic acid,
methoxyparaphenylenediamine, dimethyl-p-phenylenediamine, ?,S-
dimethylpara-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl-5-methoxy-para-
phenylenediamine, 2,6-methyl-5-methoxy-para-phenylenediamine, 3-
methyl-4-amino-N,N-diethylaniline, N,N-bis(~i-hydroxyethyl)-para-
phenylenediamine, 3-methyl-4-amino-N,N-bis((3-hydroxyethyl)aniline, 3-
chloro-4-amino-N,N-bis(~i-hydroxyethyl)aniline, 4-amino-N-ethyl-N-
(carbamethyl)aniline, 3-methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl-N-(carbamethyl)aniline,
4-amino-N-ethyl-(~3-piperidonoethyl)aniline, 3-methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl-(~i
-piperidonoethyl)aniline, 4-amino-N-ethyl-N-((3-morpholinoethyl)aniline,
3-methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl-N-(~3-morpholinoethyl)aniline, 4-amino-N-
ethyl-N-((3-acetylaminoethyl)aniline, 4-amino-N-((3-methoxyethyl) aniline,
3-methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl-N-((3-acetylaminoethyl) aniline, 4-amino-N-
ethyl-N-((3-mesylaminoethyl) aniline, 3-methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl-N-((3-
mesylaminoethyl) aniline, 4-amino-N-ethyl-N-((3-sulphoethyl) aniline, 3-
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2I
methyl-4-amino-N-ethyl-N-((3-sulphoethyl} aniline, N-(4-
aminophenyl)morpholine, N-(4-aminophenyl)piperidine, 2,3-dimethyl-p-
phenylenediamine, isopropyl-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-
hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulphate.
In highly preferred compositions according to the present invention the
materials having general formulae (Ia) and (Ib) are preferred.
NHS
(Ia) ~ R2
and salt
NHS
except where R I = R~ = Me, Et
~2
RI
(Ib) I and salt
/ R~
NHS
except where R 1 = R2 = Me
wherein Y is hydrogen, halogen, (e.g. fluorine, chlorine, bromine or
iodine), nitro, amino, hydroxyl,
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O
I I
-CH
-COOM or -S03M (where M is hydrogen or an alkali or alkaline earth
metal, ammonium, or substituted ammonium wherein one or more
hydrogens on the ammonium ion is replaced with a 1 to 3 carbon atom
alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical), wherein Rl, R2, R3 and R4 are the same or
different from each other and are selected from the group consisting of
hydrogen, C 1 to C4 alkyl or alkenyl and C6 to C9 aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl,
and RS is hydrogen, C 1 to C4 unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or alkenyl
wherein the substituents are selected from those designated as Y, above, or
C6 to C9 unsubstituted or substituted aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl wherein the
substituents are selected from those defined as Y, above. Since the
precursors of formula (I) are amines, they can be used herein in the form of
peroxide-compatible salts, as noted, where~n X represents peroxide-
compatible anions of the type herein before detailed. The general formula
of the salt indicated is to be understood to encompass those salts having
mono-, di-, and tri-negative anions.
ORg
R5 ~~~ N R1 R2 (II)
Y
OR
ORg
R5 ~~~ N-R1 R2 HX
Y
where X and Y are the same as in formula (I), RI and R2 can be the same
or different from each other and are the same as in formula (I), RS is the
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same as in formula (I) and R6 is hydrogen or C 1 to C4 substituted or
unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl wherein the substituents are selected from
those defined as Y in formula (I).
Specific examples of formula (II) compounds are:
o-aminophenol, m-aminophenol, p-aminophenol, 2-iodo-p-aminophenol,
2-nitro-p-aminophenol, 3,4-dihydroxyaniline, 3,4-diaminophenol,
chloroacetate, 2-hydroxy-4-aminobenzoic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-
aminobenzaldehyde, 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, N,N-
diisopropyl-p-aminophenol, N-methyl-N-(1-propenyl)-p-aminophenol, N-
phenyl-N-benzyl-p-aminophenol sulphate, N-methyl-N-(3-ethylphenyl)-p-
aminophenol, 2-nitro-5-ethyl-p-aminophenol, 2-nitro-5-(2-bromoethyl)-p-
aminophenol, (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)acetaldehyde, 2-methyl-p-
aminophenol, (2-hydroxy-S-aminophenyl)acetic acid, 3-(2-hydroxy-5-
aminopheny) )-1-propene, 3-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl }-?-chloro-1-
propene, 2-phenyl-p-aminophenol palmitate, 2-(4-nitrophenyl)-p-
aminophenol, 2-benzyl-p-aminophenol, 2-(4-chlorobenzyl-p-aminophenol
perchlorate, 2-(4-methylphenyl)-p-aminophenol, 2-(?-amino-4-
methylphenyl)-p-aminophenol, p-methoxyaniline, 2-bromoethyl-4-
aminophenyl ether phosphate, 2-nitroethyl-4-aminophenyl ether bromide,
2-aminoethyl-4-aminophenyl ether , 2-hydroxyethyl-4-aminophenyl ether,
(4-aminophenoxy)acetaldehyde, (4-aminophenoxy)acetic acid, (4-
aminophenoxy)methanesulfonic acid, 1-propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether
isobutyrate, (2-chloro)-1-propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether, (2-nitro)-1-
propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether, (2-amino)-propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether,
(2-hydroxy)-1-propenyl-4-aminophenyl ether, N-methyl-p-aminophenol,
3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 2-chloro-4-aminophenol) 3-chloro-4-
aminophenol) 2,6-dimethyl-4-aminophenol, 3,5-dimethyl-4-aminophenol,
~,3-dimethyl-4-aminophenol, ?,5-dimethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-
hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 3-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol.
According to the present invention compounds having the following
general formula are not preferred:
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ORI
R6 ~ ~2
RS ~ _R3
R4
wherein: R1 is alkyl, hydroxy alkyl, carboxyalkyl or aminoalkyl; R2 is
hydrogen, alkyl or hydroxyalkyl groups; R3 and RS are H or -OR where R
is an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl substituents; R4 is H, alkyl or NHR'; R6 is H,
alkyl, -OR or NHR'; R' is H, alkyl, hydroxyalkyl : with the proviso that a)
only one of R4 and R6 are NHR': b) R3 and -OR1 are not both methoxy
when when R~, RS and R6 are H and R4 is NHS; c) either R3, or R4, or
R5~ or R6 is H; d) R3, R4 and RS are not all H when R6 is NHS, R2 is H
and R1 is methyl; e) if RI is ethyl and R?, R3, R4 and R6 are H, R4 is not
NHS; f~ if Rl is carboxyalkyl or aminoalkyl, R4 is NHR'.
OR6
R5- ~I-OR6 (III)
Y
where Y, R5 and R6 are as defined above in formula (II).
Specific examples of formula (III) compounds are:
o-hydroxyphenol (catechol), m-hydroxyphenol (resorcinol), p-
hydroxyphenol (hydroquinone), 4-methoxyphenol, 2-methoxyphenol, 4-
(2-chloroethoxy) phenol, 4-(2-propenoxy) phenol) 4-(3-chloro-?-
propenoxy) phenol, 2-chloro-4-hydroxyphenol (?-chlorohydroquinone), 2-
nitro-4-hydroxyphenol(2-nitrohydroquinone), 2-amino-4-hydroxyphenol,
1,?,3-trihydroxybenzene (pyrogallol), ?,4-dihydroxybenzaldehyde, 3,4-
dihydoxybenzoic acid, 2,4-dihydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, 3-ethyl-4-
hydroxyphenol, 3-(2-nitroethyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 3-(2-propenyl)-4-
hydroxyphenol, 3-(3-chloro-2-propenyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 2-phenyl-4-
hydroxyphenol, 2-(4-chlorophenyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 2-benzyl-4-
hydroxyphenol, 2-(2-nitrophenyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 2-(2-methylphenyl)-
4-hydroxyphenol, 2-(2-methyl-4-chlorophenyl)-4-hydroxyphenol, 3-
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methoxy-4-hydroxy-benzaldehyde, 2-methoxy-4-{I-propenyl)phenol, 4-
hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamic acid, 2,5-dimethoxyaniline, 2-
methylresorcinol, alpha napthol and salts thereof.
In preferred compositions herein the following compound, having the
following formula is not included:
OCH3
NH-,
OCH3
~2
Secondary coupling compounds (color modifiers), such as those detailed
hereinafter, are preferably used in conjunction with the primary
intermediates herein and are thought to interpose themselves in the colored
polymers during their formation and to cause shifts in the electronic
spectra thereof, thereby resulting in slight color changes.
Secondary coupling compounds which are suitable for inclusion in the
coloring compositions and processes herein before described include
certain aromatic amines and phenols and derivatives thereof which do not
produce color singly, but which modify the color, shade or intensity of the
colors developed by the primary oxidized dye intermediates. Certain
aromatic amines and phenolic compounds, and derivatives thereof,
including some aromatic diamines and polyhydric phenols of the types
described by formulas (I), (Ia), (Ib), (II) and (III) above, but which are
well
known in the art not to be suitable primary intermediates, are suitable as
couplers herein. Polyhydric alcohols are also suitable for use as couplers
herein.
The aromatic amines and phenols and derivatives described above as
couplers can also have additional substituents on the aromatic ring, e.g.,
halogen, aldehyde, carboxylic acid, nitro, sulfonyl and substituted and
unsubstituted by hydrocarbon groups, as well as additional substituents on
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26
the amino nitrogen, or phenolic oxygen, e.g. substituted and unsubstituted
alkyl and aryl groups. Again, peroxide-compatible salts thereof are
suitable for use herein.
Examples of aromatic amines, phenols and derivatives thereof are
compounds of the general formulas (IV) and (V) below:
R1-N R2
R~_ _ ~ Z (IV)
OR
R1- N-R2
R~ _ . ~ Z HX
wherein Z is hydrogen, C 1 and C3 alkyl, halogen (e.g. fluorine) chlorine,
bromine or iodine) vitro,
O
II
-CH
-COOM or S03M, (where M is hydrogen or an alkali or alkaline earth
metal, ammonium or substituted ammonium wherein one or more
hydrogens on the ammonium ion is replaced with a 1 to 3 carbon atom
alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical), wherein RI and R~ are the same or
different and are selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, C 1 to C4
alkyl or alkenyl and C6 to C9 aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl and R7 is hydrogen,
C 1 to C4 unsubstituted or substituted alkyl or alkenyl wherein the
substituents are selected from those designated as Z above or C6 to Cg
unsubstituted or substituted aryl, alkaryl or aralkyl wherein the substituents
are selected from those defined as Z above and wherein X is as defined in
formula (I).
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Specif c examples of formula (IV) compounds are:
aniline, p-chloroaniline, p-fluoroaniline, p-nitroaniline, p-
aminobenzaldehyde, p-aminobenzoic acid, sodium-p-aminobenzoate,
lithium-p-aminobenzoate, calcium di-p-aminobenzoate, ammonium-p-
aminobenzoate, trimethylammonium-p-aminobenzoate, tri(2-
hydroxyethyl)-p-aminobenzoate, p-aminobenzenesulfonic acid, potassium
p-aminobenzenesulfonate, N-methylaniline, N-propyl-N-phenylaniline, N-
methyl-N-2-propenylaniline, N-benzylaniline, N-(2-ethylphenyl)aniIine, 4-
methylaniline, 4-(2-bromoethyl)aniline, 2-(2-nitroethyl)aniline, (4-
aminophenyl)acetaldehyde, (4-aminophenyl)acetic acid, 4-(2-
propenyl)aniline acetate, 4-(3-bromo-2-propenyl)aniline, 4-phenylaniline
chloroacetate, 4-(3-chlorophenyl)aniline, 4-benzylaniline, 4-(4-
iodobenzyl)aniline, 4-(3-ethylphenyl)aniline, 4-(2-chloro-4-
ethylphenyl)aniline.
O
R7 \ _ I_Z (V)
wherein Z and R~ are defined as in formula (1V) and Rg is hydrogen or C 1
to C4 substituted or unsubstituted alkyl or alkenyl wherein the substituents
are selected from those defined as Z in formula (IV).
Specif c examples of formula (V) compounds are:
phenol, p-chlorophenol, p-nitrophenol, p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, p-
hydroxybenzoic acid, p-hydroxybenzenesulfonic acid, ethylphenyl ether,
2-chloroethylphenyl ether, 2-nitroethylphenyl ether, phenoxyacetaldehyde)
phenoxyacetic acid) 3-phenoxy-1-propene, 3-phenoxy-2-nitro-1-propene,
3-phenoxy-2-bromo-1-propene, 4-propylphenol, 4-(3-bromopropyl )phenol,
2-(2-nitroethyl)phenol, (4-hydroxyphenyl)acetaldehyde, (4-
hydroxyphenyl)acetic acid, 4-(2-propenyl)phenol, 4-phenylphenol, 4-
benzylphenol, 4-(3-fluoro-2-propenyl)phenol, 4-(4-chlorobenzyl)phenol,
4-(3-ethylphenyl)phenol, 4-(2-chloro-3-ethylphenyl)phenol, 2,5-xylenol,
2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-hydroxy-5-aminopyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxy
pyridine, tetraaminopyrimindine, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 1,2,4-
trihydroxy-5-{Cl-C6-alkyl)benzene, 1,2,3-trihydroxybenzene, 4-
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aminoresorcinol, 1,2-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino- I ,4-dihydroxybenzene,
2-amino-4-methoxy-phenol, 2,4-diaminophenol, 3-methoxy-1,2-
dihydroxy-benzene, 1,4-dihydroxy-2-(N,N-diethylamino)benzene, 2,5-
diamino-4-methoxy-1-hydroxybenzene, 4,6-dimethoxy-3-amino-1-
hydroxybenzene, 2,6-dimethyl-4-[N-(p-hydroxyphenyl)amino]-1-
hydroxybenzene, I ,5-diamino-2-methyl-4-[N-(p-
hydroxyphenyl)amino]benzene and salts thereof.
In preferred compositions suitable for use herein the following
combination of primary intermediates and couplers are excluded:
R~ ~Rz
~N
NH2
Where R 1 and R2 are not H
in combination with m-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol,
2-metylresorcinol and mixtures thereof.
Additional primary intermediates suitable for use herein include catechol
species and in particular catechol "dopa" species which includes dopa itself
as well as homologs, analogs and derivatives of DOPA. Examples of
suitable cachetol species include cysteinyl dopa, alpha alkyl dopa having 1
to 4 , preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, epinephrine and
dopy alkyl esters having 1 to 6 , preferably 1 to 2 carbon atoms in the alkyl
group.
In general suitable catechols are represented by formula (VI) below:
R~~~ OH
R2 ~ ' ~ (VI)
R3 OH
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wherein Rl, R2 and R3, which may be the same or different, are electron
donor or acceptor substutuents selected from H, lower (C 1-C6) alkyl, OH,
OR, COOR, NHCOR, CN, COOH, Halogen, NO2, CF3, S03H or NR4R5,
with the proviso that only one of the R l , R2 or R3 can be CN, COOH,
halogen, N02, CF3 or S03H: R4 and R5, which may be the same or
different, are H, lower (C 1-C6) alkyl or substituted lower (C 1-C6) alkyl in
which the substituent may be OH, OR, NHCOR6, NHCONH2, NHC02R6,
NHCSNH2, CN, COOH, S03H, S02NR6, SO~R6 or C02R6; R6 is lower
(C 1-C6) alkyl, lower (C 1-C6) hydroxyalkyl phenyl linked to the nitrogen
by an alkylene chain, phenyl or substituted phenyl with the substituent
defined as Rl, and R is Cl-C6 alkyl or Cl-C6 hydroxyalkyl.
Also included herein are oxidative hair coloring agents of the formula:
0 0
~ ~ R
R~~N
H
wherein: R 1 = substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring, tertiary-butyl,
etc.; R = substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring and the formula:
R
N~N
i
R~
wherein R - aminoalkyl, amidoalkyl, aminobenzene (substituted or
unsubstituted)) amidobenzene (substituted or unsubstituted), alkyl,
substituted or unsubstituted benzene ring ; R1 - substituted or
unsubstituted benzene ring.
The primary intermediates can be used herein alone or in combination with
other primary intermediates, and one or more can be used in combination
with one or more couplers. The choice of primary intermediates and
couplers will be determined by the color, shade and intensity of coloration
which is desired. There are nineteen preferred primary intermediates and
couplers which can be used herein, singly or in combination, to provide
dyes having a variety of shades ranging from ash blonde to black; these
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are: pyrogallol, resorcinol, p-toluenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, o-
phenylenediamine, m-phenylenediamine, o-aminophenol, p-aminophenol,
4-amino-2-nitrophenol, nitro-p-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-p-
phenylenediamine, m-aminophenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-
napthol, N,N bis (2-hydroxyethyl)p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-2-
hydroxytoluene, I,5-dihydroxynapthalene, 2-methyl resorcinol and 2,4-
diaminoanisole. These can be used in the molecular form or in the form of
peroxide-compatible salts, as detailed above.
The primary intermediates and coupling compounds as aforementioned
herein may be combined to deliver a wide variety of colors to the hair.
The hair colors can vary by both depth of color and intensity of color. As
hereinbefore described the compositions according to the present invention
are valuable for the provision of high intensity colors. Intensity of color as
defined herein means the quantity of color compound formed on and
retained in the hair. In general, high intensity as defined herein means
dark or deep colors such as dark red, dark brown or black etc. In
accordance, with the above it is possible to formulate hair colors of
varying color intensity by adjusting the initial levels of each of the
oxidative dyeing materials.
For example low intensity colors such as natural blond to light brown hair
shades generally comprise from about 0.001 % to about 5%, preferably
from about 0.1 % to about 2%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about
1 % by weight of coloring composition of total oxidative dyeing agents and
may be achieved by the combination of primary intermediates such as 1,4-
diamino-benzene, 2,5-diamino toluene, 2,5-diamino-anisole, 4-
aminophenol, 2,5-diamino-benzyl alcohol and 2-(2',5'-diamino)phenyl-
ethanol with couplers such as resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol or 4-chloro
resorcinol.
Similarly combination of the above primary intermediates with couplers,
such as, S-amino-2-methyl phenol and 1,3-diamino-benzene derivatives
such as 2,4-diamino-anisole at levels of from about 0.5% to about 1% of
total dyeing agents can lead to medium intensity red colors. High intensity
colors such as blue to blue-violet hair shades can be produced by the
combination of the above primary intermediates with couplers such as 1,3-
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diamino-benzene or its derivatives such as 2,5-diamino-toluene at levels of
from about 1 % to about 6% by weight of composition of total dyeing
agents. BIack hair colors can be obtained by combining the
aforementioned primary intermediates with couplers such as 1,3-
diaminobenzene or its derivatives
However considerations have been raised against the physiological
compatibility of para-amino phenol which is commonly used to impart red
colors to the hair. Similarly, the physiological compatibility of some of
the agents favoured for the production of black color such as
paraphenylene diamine (PPD) has been called into question. Thus a need
exists for oxidative hair coloring compositions which have an improved
safety profile and in particular oxidative hair compositions for the delivery
of dark colors i.e. high color intensity dyes, which have an improved safety
profile. As discussed herein before, the low pH compositions of the
present invention provide excellent hair coloring attributes in combination
with reduced levels of hair damage and skin staining and/or irritation.
As such the compositions according to the present invention are valuable
for the delivery of improved hair condition attributes in combination with
good initial color development and consistency and improved wash
fastness over time in addition to having reduced levels of hair damage and
skin irritation and/or staining.
Non-oxidative and other d ~~es
The hair coloring compositions of the present invention may, in addition
to the essential oxidative hair coloring agents, optionally include non-
oxidative and other dye materials. Optional non-oxidative and other dyes
suitable for use in the hair coloring compositions and processes according
to the present invention include both semi-permanent, temporary and
other dyes. Non-oxidative dyes as defined herein include the so-called
'direct action dyes', metallic dyes, metal chelate dyes, fibre reactive dyes
and other synthetic and natural dyes. Various types of non-oxidative dyes
are detailed in: 'Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair' 3rd
Ed. by Clarence Robbins (pp250-259); 'The Chemistry and Manufacture
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of Cosmetics'. Volume IV. 2nd Ed. Maison G. De Navarre at chapter 45
by G.S. Kass (pp841-920); 'cosmetics: Science and Technology' 2nd Ed.,
Vol. II Balsam Sagarin, Chapter 23 by F.E. Wall (pp 279-343); 'The
Science of Hair Care' edited by C. Zviak, Chapter 7 (pp 235-261) and
.'Hair Dyes', J.C. Johnson, Noyes Data Corp., Park Ridge, U.S.A.
(1973), (pp 3-91 and 113-139).
Direct action dyes which do not require an oxidative effect in order to
develop the color, are also designated hair tints and have long been
known in the art. They are usually applied to the hair in a base matrix
which includes surfactant material. Direct action dyes include vitro dyes
such as the derivatives of nitroamino benzene or nitroaminophenol;
disperse dyes such as nitroaryl amines, aminoanthraquinones or azo dyes;
anthraquinone dyes, naphthoquinone dyes;. basic dyes such as Acridine
Orange C.I. 46005.
Nitrodyes are added to dyeing compositions to enhance colour of colorant
and to add suitable aesthetic colour to the dye mixture prior to application.
Further examples of direct action dyes include the Arianor dyes basic
brown 17, C.I.(color index) - no. 12,251; basic red 76, C.I. - 12,245;
basic brown 16, C.I. - 12,250; basic yellow 57, C.I. - 12,719 and basic
blue 99, C.I. - 56,059 and further direct action dyes such as acid yellow
1, C.I. - 10,316 (D&C yellow no.7); acid yellow 9, C.I. - 13,015; basic
violet C.I. - 45,170; disperse yellow 3, C.I. - 11,855; basic yellow 57,
C.I. - 12,719; disperse yellow 1, C.I. - 10,345; basic violet l, C.I. -
42,535, basic violet 3, C.I. - 42,555; greenish blue, C.I. - 42090 (FD&C
Blue no.l); yellowish red, C.I.-14700 (FD&C red no.4); yellow,
C.I.19140 (FD&C yellow no5); yellowish orange, C.I.15985 (FD&C
yellow no.6); bluish green, C.I.42053 (FD&C green no.3); yellowish
red, C.I.16035 (FD&C red no.40); bluish green, C.I.61570 (D&C green
no.3); orange, C.I.45370 (D&C orange no.5); red, C.I.15850 (D&C red
no.6); bluish red, C.I.15850(D&C red no.7); slight bluish red,
C.I.45380(D&C red no.22); bluish red, C.I.45410(D&C red no.28);
bluish red, C.I.73360(D&C red no.30); reddish purple, C.I.17200(D&C
red no.33); dirty blue red, C.I.15880(D&C red no.34); bright yellow red,
C.I.12085(D&C red no.36); bright orange, C.I.15510{D&C orange
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33
no.4); greenish yellow, C.I.47005(D&C yellow no.l0); bluish green,
C.I.59040(D&C green no.8); bluish violet, C.I.60730(Ext. D&C violet
no.2); greenish yellow, C.I.10316(Ext. D&C yellow no.7);
Fibre reactive dyes include the Procion (RTM), Drimarene (RTM),
Cibacron (RTM), Levafix (RTM) and Remazol (RTM) dyes available
from ICI, Sandoz, Ciba-Geigy, Bayer and Hoechst respectively.
Natural dyes and vegetable dyes as defined herein include henna
(Lawsonia alba), camomile (Matricaria chamomila or Anthemis nobilis),
indigo, logwood and walnut hull extract.
Temporary hair dyes, or hair coloring rinses, are generally comprised of
dye molecules which are too large to diffuse into the hair shaft and which
act on the exterior of the hair. They are usually applied via a leave-in
procedure in which the dye solution is allowed to dry on the hair surface.
As such these dyes are typically less resistant to the effects of washing
and cleaning the hair with surface active agents and are washed off of the
hair with relative ease. Any temporary hair dye may suitably be used in
the compositions of the invention and examples of preferred temporary
hair dyes are illustrated below.
H
CH3 OH NH2
N=N /
SO CH ~ ~ / SO H
3 3 3C 3
Viotet Red
S03H \ CH3
H
N=N ~ ~ S03CH3 O N
/ ~ ~ ~ /
S03H ~ / /
O OH
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Yellow Blue-Violet
Semi-permanent hair dyes are dyes which are generally smaller in size
and effect to temporary hair rinses but are generally larger than
permanent (oxidative) dyes. Typically, semi-permanent dyes act in a
similar manner to oxidative dyes in that they have the potential to diffuse
into the hair shaft. However, semi-permanent dyes are generally smaller
in size than the aforementioned conjugated oxidative dye molecules and as
such are pre-disposed to gradual diffusion out of the hair again. Simple
hair washing and cleaning action will encourage this process and in
general semi-permanent dyes are largely washed out of the hair after
about 5 to 8 washes. Any semi-permanent dye system may be suitably
used in the compositions of the present invention. Suitable semi-
permanent dyes for use in the compositions of the present invention are
HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Red 3, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black
9, HC Blue 7, HC Yellow 2, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse violet 1 and
mixtures thereof. Examples of semi-permanent dyes are illustrated
below:
H. N ~ C2H40H NH2 O NH2
N02 / /
\ NH \ \
2
N(C2H40H)2 O NH2
Blue Blue
OH
/ NH2 / N N /
\ \ \
NH ~ N(C2H40H)2
2
NH2
Yellow Yellow
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H.N~C2H40H NO H
2
N02 / N
\ \ \
NH2
N02
Red Red
Typical semi-permanent dye systems incorporate mixtures of both large
and small color molecules. As the size of the hair is not uniform from
root to tip the small molecules will diffuse both at the root and tip, but
will not be retained within the tip, while the larger molecules will be
generally only be able to diffuse into the ends of the hair. This
combination of dye molecule size is used to help give consistent color
results from the root to the tip of the hair both during the initial dyeing
process and during subsequent washing.
Buffering Agents
The coloring compositions of the present invention have a pH in the range
of from about 1 to about 4.5, preferably from about 1.5 to about 4.~, more
preferably from about 2 to about 4.4, most preferably from about 3.6 to
about 4.3 and especially from about 3.8 to about 4.2.
As herein before described the pH of the preferred coloring compositions
of the present invention are maintained within the desired pH range via
the action of the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent. However, if so
desired, the compositions may contain one or more optional buffering
agents and/or hair swelling agents (HSAs). Several different pH
modifiers can be used to adjust the pH of the final composition or any
constituent part thereof.
This pH adjustment can be effected by using well known acidifying agents
in the field of treating keratinous fibres, and in particular human hair,
such as inorganic and organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, tartaric
acid, citric acid, succinic acid, phosphoric acid and carboxylic or
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36
sulphonic acids such as ascorbic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, sulphuric
acid, formic acid, ammonium sulphate and sodium dihydrogenphosphate
/phosphoric acid, disodium hydrogenphosphate /phosphoric acid,
potassium chloride /hydrochloric acid, potassium dihydrogen phthalate/
hydrochloric acid, sodium citrate / hydrochloric acid, potassium
dihydrogen citrate /hydrochloric acid, potassium dihydrogencitrate/ citric
acid, sodium citrate / citric acid, sodium tartarate/ tartaric acid, sodium
lactate/ lactic acid, sodium acetate/ acetic acid, disodium
hydrogenphosphate/ citric acid and sodium chloride/ glycine
hydrochloric acid, succinic acid and mixtures thereof.
Examples of alkaline buffering agents are ammonium hydroxide,
ethylamine, dipropylamine, triethylamine and alkanediamines such as 1,3-
diaminopropane, anhydrous alkaline alkanolamines such as, mono or di-
ethanolamine, preferably those which are completely substituted on the
amine group such as dimethylaminoethanol, polyalkylene polyamines
such as diethylenetriamine or a heterocyclic amine such as morpholine as
well as the hydroxides of alkali metals, such as sodium and potassium
hydroxide, hydroxides of alkali earth metals, such as magnesium and
calcium hydroxide, basic amino acids such as L-argenine, lysine, alanine,
leucine, iso-leucine, oxylysine and histidine and atkanolamines such as
dimethylaminoethanol and aminoalkylpropanediol and mixtures thereof.
Also suitable for use herein are compounds that form HC03- by
dissociation in water (hereinafter referred to as 'ion forming
compounds'). Examples of suitable ion forming compounds are
Na2C03, NaHC03, K2C03, (NH4)2C03) NH4HC03, CaC03 and
Ca(HC03) and mixtures thereof.
Preferred for use herein as buffering agents are organic and inorganic
acids having a first pKa below pH 6, and their conjugate bases. As
defined herein, first pKa means, the negative logarithm (to the base 10) of
the equilibrium constant, K, where K is the acid dissociation constant.
Suitable organic and inorganic acids for use herein are: aspartic, malefic,
tartaric, glutamic, glycolic, acetic, succinic, salycilic, formic, benzoic,
malic, lactic, malonic, oxalic, citric, phosphoric acid and mixtures
thereof. Particularly preferred are acetic, succinic, salycilic and
phosphoric acids and mixtures thereof.
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The low pH coloring compositions according to the present invention,
may, as. will be described later herein, be comprised of a final solution
containing both peroxide and a oxidative hair coloring agents which have
been admixed prior to application to the hair or a single component
system. As such, the compositions according to the present invention
may comprise coloring kits of a number of separate components.
In oxidising and coloring kits comprising a portion of inorganic
peroxygen oxidising agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, which may be
present in either solid or liquid form, a buffering agent solution can be
used to stabilise hydrogen peroxide. Since hydrogen peroxide is stable in
the pH range from 2 to 4, it is necessary to use a buffering agent having a
pH within this range. Dilute acids are suitable hydrogen peroxide
buffering agents.
In oxidising and coloring kits comprising an oxidising agent (which may
be in solid or liquid form) in combination with one or more coloring
agents, a buffering agent capable of maintaining a solution pH in the
range of from about 1 to about 4.5, preferably from about 1.5 to about 4.5,
more preferably from about 2 to about 4.4, most preferably from about 3.6
to about 4.3 and especially from about 3.8 to about 4.?. As such it is
necessary to use a buffering agent having a pH within this range.
Catalyst
The coloring compositions herein may optionally contain a transition
metal containing catalyst for the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agents and
the) optional, preformed peroxy acid oxidising agent(s). One suitable
type of catalyst is a catalyst system comprising a heavy metal canon of
defined bleach catalytic activity, such as copper, iron or manganese
cations, an auxiliary metal cation having little or no bleach catalytic
activity, such as zinc or aluminium cations, and a sequestrant having
defined stability constants for the catalytic and auxiliary metal cations,
particularly ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, ethylenediaminetetra
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38
(methylenephosphonic acid) and water-soluble salts thereof. Such
catalysts are disclosed in US-A-4,430,243.
Other types of suitable catalysts include the manganese-based complexes
disclosed in US-A-5,246,621 and US-A-5,244,594. Preferred examples
of these catalysts include MnIV2(u-O)3(1,4,7-trimethyl-1,4,7-
triazacyclononane)2-(PF6)2, MnIII2{u-O) 1 (u-OAc)2( 1,4, 7-trimethyl-
1,4, 7-triazacyclononane)2-(C104)2, MnIV4(u-O)6( 1,4) 7-
triazacyclononane)4-(C104)2, MnIIIMnIV4(u-O)1(u-OAc)2_(1,4,7-
trimethyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane)2-(C104)3, and mixtures thereof.
Others are described in EP-A-0,549,272. Other ligands suitable for use
herein include 1,5,9-trimethyl-1,5,9-triazacyclododecane, 2-methyl-1,4,7-
triazacyclononane, 2-methyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane, 1,2,4,7-
tetramethyl-1,4,7-triazacyclononane, and mixtures thereof.
For examples of suitable catalysts see US-A-4,246,612 and US-A-
5,227,084. See also US-A-5,194,416 which teaches mononuclear
manganese (IV) complexes such as Mn(1,4,7-trimethyl-1,4,7-
triazacyclononane)(OCH3)3_(PF6). Still another type of suitably catalyst)
as disclosed in US-A-5,114,606, is a water-soluble complex of
manganese (III), and/or (IV) with a ligand which is a non-carboxylate
polyhydroxy compound having at least three consecutive C-OH groups.
Other examples include binuclear Mn complexed with tetra-N-dentate and
bi-N-dentate ligands, including N4MnIII(u_O)2MnIVN4)+and
CBiPY2MnIII(u_O)2MnIVbipY2)-(C104)3.
Further suitable catalysts are described, for example, in EP-A-0,408,131
(cobalt complex catalysts), EP-A-0,384,503, and EP-A-0,306,089
(metalio-potphyrin catalysts), US-A-4,728,455 (manganese/multidentate
ligand catalyst), US-A-4,711,748 and EP-A-0.224,952, (absorbed
manganese on aluminosilicate catalyst), US-A-4,601,845 {aluminosilicate
support with manganese and zinc or magnesium salt), US-A-4,626,373
(manganese/ligand catalyst), US-A-4,119,557 (ferric complex catalyst),
DE-A-2,054,019 (cobalt chelant catalyst) CA-A-866,191 (transition
metal-containing salts), US-A-4,430,243 (chelants with manganese
cations and non-catalytic metal cations), and US-A-4,728,455 (manganese
gluconate catalysts).
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39
Heavy metal ion sequestrant
The coloring compositions of the invention may contain as an optional
component a heavy metal ion sequestrant. By heavy metal ion sequestrant
it is meant herein components which act to sequester (chelate or
scavenge) heavy metal ions. These components may also have calcium
and magnesium chelation capacity, but preferentially they show selectivity
to binding heavy metal ions such as iron) manganese and copper. Such
sequestering agents are valuable in hair coloring compositions as herein
described for the delivery of controlled oxidising action as well as for the
provision of good storage stability of the hair coloring products.
Heavy metal ion sequestrants are generally present at a level of from
about 0.005 % to about 20 % , preferably from about 0.01 % to about 10 % ,
more preferably from about 0.05 % to about 2 % by weight of the
compositions.
Various sequestering agents, including the amino phosphonates, available
as bequest (RTM) from Monsanto, the nitriloacetates, the hydroxyethyl-
ethylene triamines and the like are known for such use. Suitable heavy
metal ion sequestrants for use herein include organic phosphonates, such
as the amino alkylene poly (alkylene phosphonates), alkali metal ethane 1-
hydroxy disphosphonates and nitrilo trimethylene phosphonates.
Preferred among the above species are diethylene triamine penta
(methylene phosphonate), ethylene diamine tri (methylene phosphonate)
hexamethylene diamine tetra (methylene phosphonate) and hydroxy-
ethylene 1,1 diphosphonate.
Preferred biodegradable non-phosphorous heavy metal ion sequestrants
suitable for use herein include nitrilotriacetic acid and
polyaminocarboxylic acids such as ethylenediaminotetracetic acid,
ethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid, ethylenediamine disuccinic acid,
ethylenediamine diglutaric acid, 2-hydroxypropylenediamine disuccinic
acid or any salts thereof. Especially preferred is ethylenediamine-N,N'-
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disuccinic acid (EDDS). see US-A-4,704,233, or the alkali metal,
alkaline earth metal, ammonium, or substituted ammonium salts thereof,
or mixtures thereof.
Other suitable heavy metal ion sequestrants for use herein are
iminodiacetic acid derivatives such as 2-hydroxyethyl diacetic acid or
glyceryl imino diacetic acid, described in EP-A-317,542 and EP-A-
399,133. The iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and
aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid
sequestrants described in EP-A-S 16,102 are also suitable herein. The (3-
alanine-N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N,N'-diacetic acid) aspartic
acid-N-monoacetic acid and iminodisuccinic acid sequestrants described
in EP-A-509,382 are also suitable.
EP-A-476,257 describes suitable amino based sequestrants. EP-A-
510,331 describes suitable sequestrants derived from collagen) keratin or
casein. EP-A-528,859 describes a suitable alkyl iminodiacetic acid
sequestrant. Dipicolinic acid and 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic
acid are also suitable. Glycinamide-N,N'-disuccinic acid (GADS),
ethylenediamine-N-N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG) and 2-
hydroxypropylenediamine-N-N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS) are also
suitable.
The heavy metal ion sequestering agents of the present invention may be
used in their alkali or alkaline earth metal salts.
Thickeners
The coloring compositions of the present invention may additionally
include a thickener at a level of from about 0.05 % to about 20 % ,
preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10 % , more preferably from about
0.5 % to about 5 % by weight. Thickening agents suitable for use in the
compositions herein are selected from oleic acid, cetyl alcohol, oleyl
alcohol, sodium chloride, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, synthetic
thickeners such as Carbopol, Aculyn and Acrosyl and mixtures thereof.
Preferred thickeners for use herein are Aculyn 22 (RTM), steareth-20
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41
methacrylate copolymer; Aculyn 44 (RTM) ,polyurethane resin and
Acusol 830 (RTM), acrylates copolymer which are available from Rohm
and Haas, Philadelphia, PA, USA. Additional thickening agents suitable
for use herein include sodium alginate or gum arabic, or cellulose
derivatives, such as methyl cellulose or the sodium salt of
carboxymethylcellulose or acrylic polymers.
Diluent
Water is the preferred diluent for the compositions according to the
present invention. However) the compositions according to the present
invention may include one or more solvents as additional diluent
materials. Generally) solvents suitable for use in the coloring
compositions of the present invention are selected to be miscible with
water and innocuous to the skin. Solvents suitable for use as additional
diluents herein include C 1-C20 mono- or polyhydric alcohols and their
ethers, glycerine, with monohydric and dihydric alcohols and their ethers
preferred. In these compounds, alcoholic residues containing 2 to 10
carbon atoms are preferred. Thus, a preferred group includes ethanol,
isopropanol, n-propanol, butanol, propylene glycol) ethylene glycol
monoethyl ether, and mixtures thereof. Water is the preferred principal
diluent in the compositions according to the present invention. Principal
diluent) as defined herein, means, that the level of water present is higher
than the total level of any other diluents.
The diluent is present at a level preferably of from about 5% to about
99.98%, preferably from about 15% to about 99.5%) more preferably at
least from about 30% to about 99%, and especially from about 50% to
about 98% by weight of the compositions herein.
Enzyme
A further additional material useful in the hair coloring compositions
according to the present invention is one or more enzymes.
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Suitable enzymatic materials include the commercially available lipases,
cutinases, amylases, neutral and alkaline proteases, esterases, cellulases,
pectinases, lactases and peroxidases conventionally incorporated into
detergent compositions. Suitable enzymes are discussed in US Patents
3,519,570 and 3,533,139 incorporated herein by reference.
Peroxidases are haemoproteins specific for peroxide, but using a wide
range of substances as donors. Catalase which decomposes peroxide, is
included here in view of the fact that it is generally similar in structure
and properties and is able to bring about certain oxidations by H202.
The decomposition of H~02 can be regarded as the oxidation of one
molecule by the other. It is widespread in aerobic cells and may have
some more important function. The coenzyme peroxidases are not
haemoproteins and one at least is a flavoprotein. Other flavoproteins such
as xanthine oxidase will also use H202 among other acceptors, and the
coenzyme peroxidases resemble these rather than the classical peroxidases
in not being specific for H202. Suitable peroxidases for the compositions
of the present invention include horseradish peroxidase, Japanese radish
peroxidase, cow's milk peroxidase, rat liver peroxidase, linginase and
haloperoxidase such as chloro- and bromo-peroxidase.
Enzymes are optionally incorporated at levels sufficient to provide up to
about 50 mg by weight, more typically about 0.01 mg to about I 0 mg of
active enzyme per gramm of the hair treatment composition of the
invention. Stated otherwise the peroxidase enzyme may be incorporated
into the compositions in accordance with the invention at a level of from
about 0.0001 % to about 5 % , preferably from about 0.001 % to about 1 % ,
more preferably from about 0.01 % to about 1 % active enzyme by weight
of the composition.
Commercially available protease enzymes include those sold under the
trade names Alcalase, Savinase, Primase, Durazym, and Esperase by
Novo Industries A/S (Denmark), those sold under the tradename
Maxatase, Maxacal and Maxapem by Gist-Brocades, those sold by
Genencor International, and those sold under the tradename Opticlean and
Optimase by Solvay Enzymes. Protease enzyme may be incorporated
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43
into the compositions in accordance with the invention at a level of from
0.0001 % to 4 % active enzyme by weight of the composition.
Amylases include, for example, a-amylases obtained from a special strain
of B licheniformis, described in more detail in GB-1,269,839 (Novo).
Preferred commercially available amylases include for example, those
sold under the tradename Rapidase by Gist-Brocades, and those sold
under the tradename Termamyl and BAN by Novo Industries A/S.
Amylase enzyme may be incorporated into the composition in accordance
with the invention at a level of from 0.0001 % to 2 % active enzyme by
weight of the composition.
Lipolytic enzyme may be present at levels of active lipolytic enzyme of
from 0.0001 % to 2 % by weight) preferably 0.001 % to 1 % by weight,
most preferably from 0.001 % to 0.5 % by weight of the compositions.
The lipase may be fungal or bacterial in origin being obtained) for
example, from a lipase producing strain of Humicola sp., Thermom
sp. or Pseudomonas sp. including Pseudomonas pseudoalcaligenes or
Pseudomas fluorescens. Lipase from chemically or genetically modified
mutants of these strains are also useful herein. A preferred lipase is
derived from Pseudomonas pseudoalcaliQenes, which is described in
Granted European Patent, EP-B-0218272.
Another preferred lipase herein is obtained by cloning the gene from
Humicola lanuginosa and expressing the gene in Asper illus oryza, as
host, as described in European Patent Application) EP-A-0258 068)
which is commercially available from Novo Industri A/S, Bagsvaerd,
Denmark, under the trade name Lipolase. This lipase is also described in
U.S. Patent 4,810,414, Huge-Jensen et al, issued March 7, 1989.
Surfactant Materials
The compositions of the present invention can additionally contain a
surfactant system. Suitable surfactants for inclusion in the compositions of
the invention generally have a lipophilic chain length of from about 8 to
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44
about 22 carbon atoms and can be selected from anionic, cationic,
nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.
(i) Anionic Surfactants
Anionic surfactants suitable for inclusion in the compositions of the
invention include alkyl sulphates, ethoxylated alkyl sulphates, alkyl
glyceryl ether sulfonates, methyl acyl taurates, fatty acyl glycinates, N-acyl
glutamates, acyl isethionates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl
ethoxysulphosuccinates, alpha-sulfonated fatty acids, their salts and/or
their esters, alkyl ethoxy carboxylates, alkyl phosphate esters, ethoxylated
alkyl phosphate esters, alkyl sulphates, acyl sarcosinates and fatty
acidJprotein condensates, and mixtures thereof. Alkyl and/or acyl chain
lengths for these surfactants are C 12-C~~, preferably C 1 ~-C 1 g more
preferably C 12_C 14~
(ii) Nonionic Surfactants
The compositions of the invention can also comprise water-soluble
nonionic surfactant(s). Surfactants of this class include C 1 ~_C 1 g fatty
acid
mono-and diethanolamides, sucrose polyester surfactants and polyhydroxy
fatty acid amide surfactants having the general formula below.
O R9
RS C N Z2
The preferred N-alkyl, N-alkoxy or N-aryloxy, polyhydroxy fatty acid
amide surfactants according to the above formula are those in which Rg is
C5-C31 hydrocarbyl, preferably C6-C 1 g hydrocarbyl) including straight-
chain and branched chain alkyl and alkenyl, or mixtures thereof and R9 is
typically hydrogen, C 1-Cg alkyl or hydroxyalkyl, preferably methyl, or a
group of formula -R1-O-R2 wherein R1 is C2-Cg hydrocarbyl including
straight-chain, branched-chain and cyclic (including aryl), and is
preferably C2-C4 alkylene, R2 is C 1-Cg straight-chain, branched-chain
and cyclic hydrocarbyl including aryl and oxyhydrocarbyl, and is
preferably C1-C4 alkyl, especially methyl, or phenyl. Z~ is a
polyhydroxyhydrocarbyl moiety having a linear hydrocarbyl chain with at
least 2 (in the case of glyceraldehyde) or at least 3 hydroxyls (in the case
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of other reducing sugars) directly connected to the chain, or an alkoxylated
derivative (preferably ethoxylated or propoxylated) thereof. Z2 preferably
will be derived from a reducing sugar in a reductive amination reaction,
most preferably Z2 is a glycityl moiety. Suitable reducing sugars include
glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, and xylose, as well
as glyceraldehyde. As raw materials, high dextrose corn syrup, high
fructose corn syrup, and high maltose corn syrup can be utilised as well as
the individual sugars listed above. These corn syrups may yield a mix of
sugar components for Z2. It should be understood that it is by no means
intended to exclude other suitable raw materials. Z2 preferably will be
selected from the group consisting of -CH2-(CHOH)n-CH~OH, -
CH(CH~OH)-(CHOH)n_1-CH~H, CH~(CHOH)~(CHOR')CHOH)-
CH~OH, where n is an integer from 1 to 5, inclusive, and R' is H or a
cyclic mono- or polysaccharide, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof. As
noted, most preferred are glycityls wherein n is 4, particularly -CH~-
(CHOH)4-CH20H.
The most preferred polyhydroxy fatty acid amide has the formula
Rg(CO)N(CH3)CH2(CHOH)4CH20H wherein Rg is a C6-C19 straight
chain alkyl or alkenyl group. In compounds of the above formula, Rg-CO-
N< can be, for example, cocoamide, stearamide, oleamide, lauramide,
myristamide, capricamide, palmiamide, tallowamide, etc.
Suitable oil derived nonionic surfactants for use herein include water
soluble vegetable and animal-derived emollients such as triglycerides with
a polyethyleneglycol chain inserted; ethoxylated mono and di-glycerides,
polyethoxylated lanolins and ethoxylated butter derivatives. One preferred
class of oil-derived nonionic surfactants for use herein have the general
formula below:
0
RCOCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)nOH
wherein n is from about 5 to about 200, preferably from about 20 to about
100, more preferably from about 30 to about 85, and wherein R comprises
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an aliphatic radical having on average from about 5 to 20 carbon atoms,
preferably from about 7 to 18 carbon atoms.
Suitable ethoxylated oils and fats of this class include polyethyleneglycol
derivatives of glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl caproate, glyceryl caprylate,
glyceryl tallowate, glyceryl palmate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl laurate,
glyceryl oleate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and glyceryl fatty esters derived from
triglycerides, such as palm oil, almond oii, and corn oil, preferably
glyceryl tallowate and glyceryl cocoate.
Preferred for use herein are polyethyleneglycol based polyethoxylated C9-
C 15 fatty alcohol nonionic surfactants containing an average of from
about S to about 50 ethyleneoxy moieties per mole of surfactant.
Suitable polyethylene glycol based polyethoxylated C9-C 15 fatty alcohols
suitable for use herein include C9-C 11 Pareth-3, C9-C 11 Pareth-4, C9-
C 11 Pareth-5, C9-C 11 Pareth-6, C9-C 11 Pareth-7, C9-C 11 Pareth-8)
C 11-C 15 Pareth-3 , C 11-C 15 Pareth-4, C 11-C 15 Pareth-5 , C 11-C 15
Pareth-6, C 11-C 15 Pareth-7, C 11-C 15 Pareth-8, C 11-C 15 Pareth-9, C 11-
C 15 Pareth-10, C 11-C 15 Pareth-11, C 11-C 15 Pareth-12, C 11-C 15
Pareth-13 and C 11-C 15 Pareth-14. PEG 40 hydrogenated castor oil is
commercially available under the tradename Cremophor (RTM) from
BASF. PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG 20 glyceryl laurate are
commercially available from Henkel under the tradenames Cetiol (RTM)
HE and Lamacit (RTM) GML 20 respectively. C9-C 11 Pareth-8 is
commercially available from Shell Ltd under the tradename Dobanol
(RTM) 91-8. Particulary preferred for use herein are polyethylene glycol
ethers of ceteryl alcohol such as Ceteareth 25 which is available from
BASF under the trade name Cremaphor A25.
Also suitable for use herein are nonionic surfactants derived from
composite vegetable fats extracted from the fruit of the Shea Tree
(Butyrospermum Karkii Kotschy) and derivatives thereof. Similarly,
ethoxylated derivatives of Mango, Cocoa and Illipe butter may be used in
compositions according to the invention. Although these are classified as
ethoxylated nonionic surfactants it is understood that a certain proportion
may remain as non-ethoxylated vegetable oil or fat.
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Other suitable oil-derived nonionic surfactants include ethoxylated
derivatives of almond oil, peanut oil, rice bran oil, wheat germ oil, linseed
oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts,
sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil, poppyseed oil,
pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil,
hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil.
(iii) Amphoteric Surfactants
Amphoteric surfactants suitable for use in the compositions of the
invention include:
(a) imidazolinium surfactants of formula (VII)
C2H40R2
CH2Z
R1 .N.
N - _.._
wherein R1 is C~-C~~ alkyl or alkenyI, R~ is hydrogen or
CH~Z, each Z is independently CO~M or CH~CO~M, and M
is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or
alkanolammonium; and/or ammonium derivatives of formula
(VIII)
C2H40H
R1CONH(CH2)2N+CH2Z
R2
wherein R1, R2 and Z are as defined above;
(b) aminoalkanoates of formula (I~
RINH(CH2)nC02M
iminodialkanoates of formula (?~
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R 1 N[{CH2)mC02M]2
and iminopolyalkanoates of formula (XI)
Rl _[N(CH2)p]qN[CH2C02M]2
CH2C02M
wherein n, m, p, and q are numbers from 1 to 4, and R 1 and M
are independently selected from the groups specified above;
and
(c) mixtures thereof.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants of type (a) are marketed under the trade
name Miranol and Empigen and are understood to comprise a complex
mixture of species. Traditionally, the Miranols have been described as
having the general formula (VII), although the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary, 3rd Edition indicates the non-cyclic structure (VIII) while the
4th Edition indicates yet another structural isomer in which R~ is O-linked
rather than N-linked. In practice, a complex mixture of cyclic and non-
cyclic species is likely to exist and both definitions are given here for sake
of completeness. Preferred for use herein, however, are the non-cyclic
species.
Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants of type {a) include
compounds of formula XII and/or XIII in which R 1 is CgH 1 ~ (especially
iso-capryl), C9H 19 and C 11 H~3 alkyl. Especially preferred are the
compounds in which R I is C9H 1 g, Z is CO~M and R2 is H; the
compounds in which Rl is C 1 I H~3, Z is C02M and R2 is CH~CO~M;
and the compounds in which R 1 is C 11 H23, Z is CO~M and R~ is H.
In CTFA nomenclature, materials suitable for use in the present invention
include cocoamphocarboxypropionate, cocoamphocarboxy propionic acid,
and especially cocoamphoacetate and cocoamphodiacetate (otherwise
referred to as cocoamphocarboxyglycinate). Specific commercial products
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include those sold under the trade names of Ampholak 7TX (sodium
carboxy methyl tallow polypropyl amine), Empigen CDL60 and CDR 60
(Albright & Wilson), Miranol H2M Conc. Miranol C2M Conc. N.P.,
Miranol C2M Conc. O.P., Miranol C2M SF, Miranol CM Special (Rhone-
Poulenc); Alkateric 2CIB (Alkaril Chemicals); Amphoterge W-2 (Lonza,
Inc.); Monateric CDX-38, Monateric CSH-32 (Mona Industries);
Rewoteric AM-2C (Rewo Chemical Group); and Schercotic MS-2 (Scher
Chemicals). Further examples of amphoteric surfactants suitable for use
herein include Octoxynol-1 (RTM), polyoxethylene ( 1 ) octylphenyl ether;
Nonoxynol-4 (RTM), polyoxyethylene (4) nonylphenyl ether and
Nonoxynol-9, polyoxyethylene (9) nonylphenyl ether.
It will be understood that a number of commercially-available amphoteric
surfactants of this type are manufactured and sold in the form of
electroneutral complexes with, for example, hydroxide counterions or with
anionic sulfate or sulfonate surfactants, especially those of the sulfated Cg-
C I g alcohol, Cg-C I g ethoxylated alcohol or Cg-C I g acyl glyceride types.
Note also that the concentrations and weight ratios of the amphoteric
surfactants are based herein on the uncomplexed forms of the surfactants,
any anionic surfactant counterions being considered as part of the overall
anionic surfactant component content.
Examples of preferred amphoteric surfactants of type (b) include N-alkyl
polytrimethylene poly-, carboxymethylamines sold under the trade names
Ampholak X07 and Ampholak 7CX by Berol Nobel and also salts)
especially the triethanolammonium salts and salts of N-lauryl-beta-amino
propionic acid and N-lauryl-imino-dipropionic acid. Such materials are
sold under the trade name Deriphat by Henkel and Mirataine by Rhone-
Poulenc.
(iv) Zwitterionic Surfactants
Water-soluble auxiliary zwitterionic surfactants suitable for inclusion in
the compositions of the present invention include alkyl betaines of the
formula RSR6R7N+ (CH2)nC02M and amido betaines of the formula
(XII) below:
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R6
RSCON(CH2)mN(CH2)nC02M
R~
wherein RS is C11-C22 alkyl or alkenyl, R6 and R~ are independently Cl-
C3 alkyl, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or
alkanolammonium, and n, m are each numbers from 1 to 4. Preferred
betaines include cocoamidopropyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine,
laurylamidopropyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine and Tego betaine
(RTM).
Water-soluble auxiliary sultaine surfactants suitable for inclusion in the
compositions of the present invention include alkyl sultaines of the
formula (XIII) below:
R2
R~ CON(CH2)mN+(CH2)nCH(OH)CH2S03-M+
R3
wherein Rl is C~ to C22 alkyl or alkenyl, R2 and R3 are independently C 1
to C3 alkyl, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or
alkanolammonium and m and n are numbers from 1 to 4. Preferred for use
herein is coco amido propylhydroxy sultaine.
Water-soluble auxiliary amine oxide surfactants suitable for inclusion in
the compositions of the present invention include alkyl amine oxide
RSR6R~N0 and amido amine oxides of the formula (XIV) below:
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R6
RSCON{CH2)mN ~ O
R~
wherein RS is C 11 to C22 alkyl or alkenyl, R6 and R~ are independently
C 1 to C3 alkyl, M is H, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or
alkanolammonium and m is a number from 1 to 4. Preferred amine oxides
include cocoamidopropylamine oxide, lauryl dimethyl amine oxide and
myristyl dimethyl amine oxide.
Optional Materials
A number of additional optional materials can be added to the coloring
compositions herein described each at a level of from about 0.001 % to
about S%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 3%, more preferably from
about 0.05% to about 2% by weight of composition. Such materials
include proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble or
solubilizable preservatives such as DMDM Hydantoin) Germall 115,
methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, EDTA,
Euxyl (RTM) K400, natural preservatives such as benzyl alcohol,
potassium sorbate and bisabalol, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate and 2-
phenoxyethanol; antioxidants such as sodium sulphite) hydroquinone,
sodium bisulphite, sodium metabisulphite and thyoglycolic acid, sodium
dithionite, erythrobic acid and other mercaptans; dye removers such as
oxalic acid, sulphated castor oil, salicylic acid and sodium thiosulphate;
H~O~ stabilisers such as tin compounds such as sodium stannate, stannic
hydroxide and stannous octoate, acetanilide, phenacetin colloidal silica
such as magnesium silicate, oxyquinoline sulphate, sodium phosphate, and
tetrasodium pyrophosphate; and p-hydroxybenzoates; moisturising agents
such as hyaluronic acid, chitin , and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylates
such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 available from
Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA, USA and described in
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US-A-4,076,663 as well as methyl cellulose, starch, higher fatty alcohols,
paraffin oils, fatty acids and the like; solvents ; anti-bacterial agents such
as Oxeco (phenoxy isopropanol); low temperature phase modifiers such as
ammonium ion sources (e.g. NH4 Cl); viscosity control agents such as
magnesium sulfate and other electrolytes; quaternary amine compounds
such as distearyl-, dilauryl-, di-hydrogenated beef tallow-, dimethyl
ammonium chloride, dicetyldiethyl ammoniumethylsulphate,
ditallowdimethyl ammonium methylsulphate, disoya dimethyl ammonium
chloride and dicoco dimethyl ammonium chloride; hair conditioning
agents such as silicones, higher alcohols, cationic polymers and the like;
enzyme stabilisers such as water soluble sources of calcium or borate
species; colouring agents; Ti02 and TiO~-coated mica; perfumes and
perfume solubilizers; and zeolites such as Valfour BV400 and derivatives
thereof and Ca2+/Mg2+ sequestrants such as polycarboxylates, amino
polycarboxylates, polyphosphonates, amino polyphosphonates etc. and
water softening agents such as sodium citrate.
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The present invention is represented by the following non-limiting
examples. In the examples, all
concentrations are on a 100% active
basis
and all percentages are by weight unless otherwise stated
and the
abbreviations have the following
designations:
Oxidising agent hydrogen peroxide
Oxidative Dye 1 para-phenylene diamine
Oxidative Dye 2 para-aminophenol
Oxidative Dye 3 meta-aminophenol
Oxidative Dye 4 2-amino-3-hydroxy pyridine
Oxidative Dye 5 4-amino-2-hydroxy toluene
Non-oxidative Dye Basic red 76
Chelating agent Ethylenediamine tetraaceticacid
Surfactant 1 Ceteareth-25
Surfactant 2 Cocoamidopropyl betaine
Thickener 1 Cetyl alcohol
Thickener 2 Stearyl alcohol
Antioxidant Sodium sulphite
Buffering Agent Acetic acid
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Examples I - VII
The following are hair treatment compositions in the form of hair coloring
compositions which are representative of the present invention.
Ingredient I II III IV V VI VII
Oxidising Agent0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 1.0 1.5 2.5
Oxidative Dye 0.24 0.14 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.240.3
1
Oxidative Dye 0.09 0.05 0.009 - - 0.1
2 0.09
Oxidative Dye 0.006
3 0.004
0.006
0.006
0.006
0.006
-
Oxidative Dye 0.06 0.03 0.06 0.06 0.06 0.060.06
4
Oxidative Dye - - - - - 0.5 -
S
Non-Oxidative - - - 0.1 - -
Dye-
Surfactant 1.5 1.7 I.S I.S 1.5 - 3.0
1
Surfactant - - - - - I.5 -
2
Chelating agent0.1 0.06 0.09 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Thickener 1 2.3 2.6 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.0
Thickener 2 2.3 2.6 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.3 4.0
Antioxidant 0.1 0.06 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Buffer - - - 0.5 - - -
Water ..............balance .........................
to .......
pH 4.0 3.8 3.9 2.7 - - -
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In the examples, water is used as the diluent. However in variations hereof
water can be replaced, in part, by from about 0.5% to about 50% by weight
of the total water content of the examples by diluents such as lower
alcohols, e.g., ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene
glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol, 1,3-propane
diol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, glycerine, butoxyethanol, ethoxydiglycol,
hexylene glycol, polyglyceryl-2-oleyl ether and mixtures thereof.
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Experimental Methods
I Assessment of Initial Color and Color Change
The equipment used to measure both the initial color and color change on
substrates (hair / skin) dyed with the low pH coloring compositions of the
present invention is a Hunter Colorquest spectrophotometer. The value
used to express the degree of color change on any particular substrate is
Delta E (DE). Delta E, as defined herein, is represented by a factual sum of
L, a, and b values such that:
4E - (~L2 + Da2 + Ob2) 1 /2
and L is a measure of lightness and darkness (color intensity), wherein L =
100 is equivalent to white, and L = 0 is equivalent to black. Further, 'a' is
a
measure of the red and green quotients (color hues) such that positive
equates to red and negative equates to green, and 'b' is a measure of the
yellow and blue quotients (color hues) such that positive equates to yellow
and negative equates to blue.
Hunter Colorquest measurements can be carried out on the Hunter Labscan
Colorimeter which is full scanning spectrocolorimeter with a wavelength
of from 400-700 nanometers which records the color of test hair switches
(tresses) in terms of 'L', 'a' and 'b' values. The machine is set to: mode -
0/45; port size - 1 inch; view size - 1 inch; light - D65; field of view -
10°;
LTV lamp/filter - none. The hair is placed in a sample holder designed to
hold the hair in a uniform orientation during measurement. Equivalent
colorimeters can be used, but it must be ensured that the hair does not
move during measurement. The hair must be spread to cover the 1 inch
port during color measurement. Dots are placed on the switch holder to
guide the positioning of the holder at the port. The dots are lined up with a
mark on the port and readings are taken at each spot.
Eight measurements are run per switch, 4 on each side, and three switches
are run per treatment.
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II. Standard Hair Switch
The compositions according to the present invention can be used to color
hair of all colors, types and condition. For the purposes of illustration two
test hair switch types; light brown and light brown with 40% grey coverage
have been tested herein. These standard hair switches can be measured in
terms of their approximate L, a, b values.
L a b
Light brown 60 9 32
40% grey light brown 35 - 37 4.5 - 5.5 11.5 - 12.7
III Hair Switch Colorine Method
To color hair, a 4 gramme switch of about 8 inch long hair is hung over a
suitable container. The test coloring product is then prepared (i.e., where
applicable the separate bottle components are mixed together) and about 8
grammes of product is applied directly to the test hair switch. The colorant
is massaged through the hair switch for up to about 1 minute and then left
on the hair switch for up to about 30 minutes. After rinsing with running
water for about 1 or 2 minutes the colored hair switch is then cleansed
(according to the shampoo protocol) and dried. Drying can be effected
either naturally (without heat assistance) or using a drier. The color
development (initial color) of the colored, cleansed, dried test hair switch
can then be assessed using the Hunter Colorquest spectrophotometer.
For the delivery of a red shade (hue) to prepermed, prebleached light
brown hair (having L, a, b values of approximately 60, 9 and 32) the
preferred initial shade of the colored hair will have a hue value (arc tangent
of (b/a}) in the range of from about 25 to about 70, more preferably from
about 30 to about 65, most preferably from about 35 to about 60 and
wherein the initial color intensity (L) is greater than about 10 and less than
about 70, preferably greater than about 15 and less than about 65, more
preferably greater than about 20 and less than about 60.
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For the delivery of a brown or black shade (hue) to prepermed,
prebleached light brown hair (having L, a, b values of approximately 60, 9
and 32) the preferred initial shade of the colored hair will have a hue value
(arc tangent of (b/a)) of less than about 25, preferably less than about 20
and the initial color intensity (L) will be greater than about 1 and less than
about 50, preferably greater than about S and less than about 45.
For the delivery of a light brown shade (hue) to prepermed, prebleached
light brown hair (having L, a, b values of approximately 60, 9 and 32) the
preferred initial shade of the colored hair will have a hue value (arc tangent
of (b/a)) in the range of from about 70 up to about 110 and wherein the
initial color intensity (L) will be greater than about 20 and less than about
95, preferably greater than about 25 and less than about 90.
A significant color change, as delivered via the coloring compositions
according to the present invention, means a color change in terms of Delta
E which is greater than about 8, preferably greater than about 10, more
preferably greater than about 12, most preferably greater than about 15 and
especially greater than about 20.
Hair Switch Cleansin~Method
Switches of colored hair are subjected to a repeated cleansing cycle
wherein the following process is repeated up to 10 times.
A 4 gramme, 8 inch test switch of colored hair is clamped over a suitable
container and rinsed thoroughly for about 10 seconds using warm water (at
about 100°F at about 1.5 gallons/minute pressure). Shampoo (about 0.4m1
non-conditioning shampoo) can then be applied directly to the wet test
switch using a syringe. After lathering the hair for about 30 seconds the
hair is rinsed in running warm water for about 30 seconds. The shampoo
and lathering process is then repeated with a final 60 second rinse. Excess
water can be removed (squeezed) from the test switch using the fingers.
The test switch is then dried either natrually, or using a pre-heated dryer
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box at about 140°F (for about 30 minutes). The colored, cleansed, dried
test hair switch can then be color assessed (Delta E fade).
During any single test cycle each different switch to be assessed should be
tested in water of equivalent temperature, pressure level and hardness
level.
Delta E fade results for prepermed, prebleached light brown hair (having
L, a, b values of approximately 60, 9 and 32) which has been colored a red
shade (of hue value in the range of from about 25 to about 70) are
generally less than about 5.0) preferably less than about 4.5, more
preferably less than about 4.0 and wherein the change in hair color, % delta
E, after up to 20 washes, is less than about 20%, and preferably less than
about I S%, more preferably less than about 10%.
Delta E fade results for prepermed, prebleached light brown hair (having
L, a, b values of approximately 60, 9 and 32) which has been colored a
brown or black shade (of hue value of less than about 25) are generally less
than about 2.3, preferably less than about 2.0, more preferably less than
about 1.7 and wherein the change in hair color, % delta E, after up to 20
washes, is less than about 5%, preferably less than about 4.5%, more
preferably less than about 4%) most preferably less than about 3.5%.
Delta E fade results for prepermed, prebleached Light brown hair (having
L, a, b values of approximately 60, 9 and 32) which has been colored a
light brown shade (of hue value in the range of from about 70 to about
I 10) are generally less than about 2.6) preferably less than about 2.3 and
wherein the change in hair color, % delta E) after up to 20 washes) is less
than about I S%, preferably less than about 12%, more preferably less than
about 10%, most preferably less than about 8%.
In preferred compositions herein, the change in the color of the dyed hair
over time (Delta E fade) is less than about 15%, preferably less than about
12%, more preferably less than about 10% and most preferably less than
about 8%.
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V Skin Staining Test Method
For the purposes of the present invention skin staining results are based on
pig skin data.
Skin staining measurements can be made on pigs ears, preferably the ears
of recently deceased pigs. The ears should not have been subject to undue
heating (scalding). Hair is shaved from the most flat section of the ear to
be stained. An area of at least 1 cm x Scm is pre-marked on the ear (using a
permenant marker) and the ear is then cleansed with non-conditioning
shampoo (0.1 g/cm2 at 10% dilution). After massaging in the shampoo for
about 1 minute the ear is rinsed for about 30 seconds then gently patted dry
by hand with a paper towel. Baseline color assessment readings (L, a, b)
are then taken for the pre-marked area. The test dye is then applied to the
pre-marked test area (about 0.25g/cm2) and massaged in for about 1
minute and allowed to remain on the ear for about 30 minutes. The
colored ear is then rinsed with about 2 litres of tap water at about
37°C and
hand dried as above. Color assessment readings (L, a, b) are then taken for
the pre-marked area of the dyed ear. Total color change (Delta E) can then
be calculted from the L, a, b values and expressed as relative levels of skin
staining (versus the baseline color).
VI Measurement of pH
For the purposes of the present invention, as described herein, all pH
measurements were carried out on a Mettler Toledo 320 pH meter. All pH
measurements of dyes, oxidising agents and mixtures thereof) either singly
or in combination with a suitable delivery medium, such as water and
surfactant and /or thickeners, were carried out at room temperature (about
~5°C). The pH of dye mixtures were measured in the form of intended use
and prior to application.. A preferred delivery medium for use herein
comprises an emulsion of ceteareth-25 at a level of from about 1 % to about
3% by weight, cetyl alohol at a level of from about 2% to about 5% by
weight and stearyl alcohol at a level of from about 2% to about 5% of
solution or composition.
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61
Experimental Data
I Initial Color and Wash Fastness
Example formula I provides improved initial color and fade resistance
versus a similar composition having pH outside the scope of the present
invention.
Example formula II provides improved intial color development and
washfastness versus a similar high pH formula containing the same level
of oxidant and up to 60% more dye.
Example formula III provides improved initial color development versus a
high pH formula containing the same level of dye but more inorganic
peroxygen oxidising agent.
Method of Manufacture
It is important that dyeing compositions be in a form which is easy and
convenient to prepare and use by the consumer, since the oxidising agent
must remain in contact with the hair for a certain period of time and not
run or drip off of the hair, possibly causing eye or skin irritation.
To address the above, the coloring compositions of the present invention
can be provided in both a single pack or in kit form as separately packaged
components to maintain stability, and, if so desired, either mixed by the
user immediately prior to application to the hair, or mixed and stored for
future use, or mixed and partly used and the remainder stored for future
use.
As hereinbefore described, the compositions according to the present
invention may be used by the consumer as a single component package.
Such a single pack would comprise a single solution at pH 1 to 4.5
containing both the inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent and the oxidative
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dye precursors. The solution would be applied directly to the hair by the
consumer without the need for any pretreatments or mixing thereby
providing a simple, fast, easy to use, 'no-mess' hair coloring system. A
further advantage of such a single component system is that it could be
stored and re-used i.e., a single package could contain enough coloring
composition for several applications over time.
Thus, according to a further aspect of the present invention, there is
provided:
A method for coloring hair wherein a hair coloring mixture is present in a
single package and applied directly to the hair and wherein the hair
coloring mixture comprises:
(a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent; and
(b) an oxidative hair coloring agent;
wherein the pH of each of (a) and (b), when in solution, is in the range of
from about 1 to about 4.5 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b),
when in solution, has a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 4.5.
According to a still further aspect of the present invention, there is
provided:
A method for coloring hair wherein a hair coloring composition is present
as separately packaged components (a) and (b) and wherein the hair
coloring composition comprises:
(a) an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent wherein the pH of
a), is in the range of from about 1 to about 4.5 ; and
(b) an oxidative hair coloring agent wherein the pH of (b), is in
the range of from about 1 to about 4.5;
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wherein each of (a) and (b) are stable at pHs in the range of from about 1
to about 4.5 and wherein the combined mixture of (a) and (b) is stable over
time and has a pH in the range of from about 1 to about 4.5.
Alternatively the compositions according to the present invention can be
packaged as follows: one component of the kit comprises an individually
packaged oxidising component while further kit components could
comprise coloring agent mixture and, optionally, individually packaged
additional, optional, oxidising agent(s), or two separate individual
packages of oxidising agent and coloring agents. In one embodiment of
the present invention the oxidising component comprises a stabilised
aqueous solution of an inorganic peroxygen oxidising agent, most
generally hydrogen peroxide, in an amount such that the final
concentration of the coloring composition for use on the hair is from about
0.05% to about 6% by weight and additional agents as herein before
described. The compositions can either be mixed by the user immediately
prior to application to the hair or can be applied separately. Examples of
such kits are as follows:
I. A hair coloring kit is assembled comprising a single package including
therein: ( 1 ) a 50 ml bottle of hydrogen peroxide ( 1.4% by weight of
H~O~), and optionally buffering agents and/or stabilisers; and (2) a 50 ml
bottle containing one or more oxidative hair coloring agents and,
optionally, additional agents such as surfactants, stabilisers, buffering
agents, antioxidants, thickeners etc. The oxidative hair coloring agents can
either be admixed with the hydrogen peroxide to form the low pH dyeing
system of the present invention and the resulting solution can be either
appl led to the hair to color it or stored for future use, or the separately
packaged stable components can be stored and mixed when required.
II. A hair coloring kit as described above wherein the hydrogen peroxide
containing component is applied to the hair prior to application of the
oxidative hair coloring agents and additional materials to the hair.
. III. Further examples of kit components for the hair coloring compositions
according to the present invention include separately packaged oxidant and
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oxidative hair coloring agents wherein either one or both components are
present in particulate form.
Method of Use
The compositions herein described are used to color hair. The coloring
compositions herein are applied to the hair for periods of from 1 minute to
60 minutes depending upon the degree of coloring required. A preferred
time is between 5 minutes and 30 minutes. The coloring compositions
according to the present invention can be applied to both wet and dry hair.
As hereinbefore described the coloring composition can be present as a
single package, at low pH, suitable for direct application to the hair.
Alternatively, the coloring composition can be present in kit form wherein
one component comprises an oxidising agent and a further component
comprises oxidative hair coloring agents. Hair coloring kits according to
the present invention can be used to color the hair in several ways
including:
(i) the kit components are admixed to form a low pH coloring
composition prior to application to the hair.
(ii) the hair oxidising agent is applied to the hair prior to application of
the oxidative hair coloring agents.
(iii) the oxidative hair coloring agents are applied to the hair prior to
application of the oxidising agent.
The products provide excellent initial hair coloring and in-use efficacy
benefits including improved washfastness, color saturation and reduced
hair damage at lower pH.
