Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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1
Cosmetic Compositions
Technical Field
PCT/US9$/21521
The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions. In particular it
relates to cosmetic
compositions which provide improved moisturization, skin feel, skin softness,
skin
smoothness benefits, together with excellent rub-in and absorption
characteristics. The
compositions also display excellent stability characteristics at normal and
elevated
temperatures.
Backeround of the Invention
Skiti is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the keratin
and collagen
fibrous proteins that form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of
these layers,
referred to as the stratum corneum, is known to be composed of 25nm protein
bundles
surrounded by 8nm thick layers. Anionic surfactants and organic solvents
typically
penetrate the stratum corneum membrane and, by delipidization (i.e. removal of
the lipids
from the stratum corneum), destroy its integrity. This destruction of the skin
surface
topography leads to a rough feel and may eventually permit the surfactant or
solvent to
interact with the keratin, creating irritation.
It is now recognised that maintaining the proper water gradient across the
stratum
corneum is important to its functionality. Most of this water, which is
sometimes
considered to be the stratum corneum's plasticizer, comes from inside the
body. If the
humidity is too low, such as in a cold climate, insufficient water remains in
the outer
layers of the stratum corneum to properly plasticize the tissue, and the skin
begins to scale
and becomes itchy. Skin permeability is also decreased somewhat when there is
inadequate water across the stratum corneum. On the other hand, too much water
on the
outside of the skin causes the stratum corneum to ultimately sorb three to
five times its
own weight of bound water. This swells and puckers the skin and results in
approximately a two to three fold increase in the permeability of the skin to
water and
other polar molecules.
Thus, a need exists for compositions which will assist the stratum corneum in
maintaining
its barrier and water-retention functions at optimum performance in spite of
deleterious
interactions which the skin may encounter in washing, work, and recreation.
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Conventional cosmetic cream and lotion compositions as described, for example,
in
Sagarin, Cosmetics Science and Technology, 2nd Edition, Vol.l, Wiley
Interscience
(1972) and Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology; Third Edition, Volume 7 are
known
to provide varying degrees of emolliency, barrier and water-retention
(moisturizing)
S benefits. However, they can also suffer negatives in terms of skin feel
(i.e. not providing
the desired skin softness or skin smoothness benefits) and have poor rub-in
and slow
absorption into the skin.
Thus, there remains a need for compositions which will assist the stratum
corneum in
maintaining its water gradient, but which do so with improved skin feel, skin
softness and
skin smoothness and improved absorption into the skin.
Polyol fatty acid polyester compounds are known for use in skin care
compositions. For
example, EP-A-458600, EP-A-466410, EP-A-S 19727 and EP-A-587288 disclose
compositions containing polyol fatty acid polyester compounds for use in skin
care
compositions.
In addition, branched chain hydrocarbon such as isohexadecane are known for
use in skin
care compositions.
It has now been surprisingly found that by incorporating a particular polyol
fatty acid
polyester material into a cosmetic emulsion composition together with a
particular
branched chain hydrocarbon such as isohexadecane, a composition is provided
which
provides enhanced skin feel, skin softness and skin smoothness benefits. The
compositions herein also providing excellent moisturisation, rub-in and
absorption
characteristics.
Summary of the Invention
According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a cosmetic
composition
suitable for topical application to the skin or hair comprising:
(a) liquid, polyol carboxylic acid ester having a polyol moiety and at least 4
carboxylic acid moieties, wherein the polyol moiety is selected from sugars
and
sugar alcohols containing from about 4 to about 8 hydroxyl groups, and wherein
each carboxylic acid moiety has from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms, and
wherein said liquid polyol carboxylic acid ester has a complete melting point
of
less than about 30°C; and
(b) a branched chain hydrocarbon having a weight average molecular weight of
from
about 100 to about 15,000.
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The compositions of the invention provide improved skin feel, skin softness
and skin
smoothness benefits and/or improved rub-in/absorption characteristics.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
cosmetic method
of treatment of the skin comprising applying to the skin a composition
according to the
present invention.
Detailed Description of the Invention
The compositions of the present invention comprises a liquid polyol carboxylic
acid ester
component together with a branched chain hydrocarbon as well as various
optional
ingredients as indicated below. All levels and ratios are by weight of total
composition,
unless otherwise indicated. Chain length and degrees of ethoxylation are also
specified
on a weight average basis.
The term "skin conditioning agent", as used herein means a material which
provides a
"skin conditioning benefit". As used herein, the term "skin conditioning
benefit" means
any cosmetic conditioning benefit to the skin including, but not limited to,
moisturization,
humectancy (i.e. the ability to retain or hold water or moisture in the skin),
emolliency,
visual improvement of the skin surface, soothing of the skin, softening of the
skin,
improvement in skin feel, and the like.
The term "complete melting point", as used herein means a melting point as
measured by
the well-known technique of Differential Scanning Calorimetry (DSC). The
complete
melting point is the temperature at the intersection of the baseline, i.e. the
specific heat
line, with the line tangent to the trailing edge of the endothermic peak. A
scanning
temperature of 5°C/minute is generally suitable in the present
invention for measuring the
complete melting points. However, it should be recognised that more frequent
scanning
rates may be deemed appropriate by the analytical chemist skilled in the art
in specific
circumstances. A DSC technique for measuring complete melting points is also
described
in US Patent No. 5,306,514, to Letton et al., issued April 26, 1994.
The term "nonocclusive" as used herein, means that the component as so
described does
not substantially or block the passage of air and moisture through the skin
surface.
Liauid nolyol carboxylic acid ester
As an essential component the compositions herein comprise a liquid, polyol
carboxylic
acid ester.
The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise from about 0.01
% to about
20%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 15%, and especially from about
0.5% to
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about 10% by weight of the polyol ester. The level of polyol ester by weight
of the oil in
the composition is preferably from about 1% to about 85%, more preferably from
about
5% to about 75%. From the viewpoint of providing improved skin softness and
smoothness benefits, the weight ratio of the liquid carboxylic acid polyol
ester to the
emollient material is preferably in the range of from about 5:1 to about 1:5;
more
preferably in the range of from 3:1 to about 1:3.
The polyol ester preferred for use herein is a nonocclusive liquid or
liquifiable polyol
carboxylic acid ester. These polyol esters are derived from a polyol radical
or moiety and
one or more carboxylic acid radicals or moieties. In other words, these esters
contain a
moiety derived from a polyol and one or more moieties derived from a
carboxylic acid.
These carboxylic acid esters can also be derived from a carboxylic acid. These
carboxylic
acid esters can also be described as liquid polyol fatty acid esters, because
the terms
carboxylic acid and fatty acid are often used interchangeably by those skilled
in the art.
The preferred liquid polyol polyesters employed in this invention comprise
certain
polyols, especially sugars or sugar alcohols, esterified with at least four
fatty acid groups.
Accordingly, the polyol starting material must have at least four esterifiable
hydroxyl
groups. Examples of preferred polyols are sugars, including monosaccharaides
and
disaccharides, and sugar alcohols. Examples of monosaccharides containing four
hydroxyl groups are xylose and arabinose and the sugar alcohol derived from
xylose,
which has five hydroxyl groups, i.e., xylitol. The monosaccharide, erythrose,
is not
suitable in the practice of this invention since it only contains three
hydroxyl groups, but
the sugar alcohol derived from erythrose, i.e., erythritol, contains four
hydroxyl groups
and accordingly can be used. Suitable five hydroxyl group-containing
monosaccharides
are galactose, fructose, and sorbose. Sugar alcohols containing six -OH groups
derived
from the hydrolysis products of sucrose, as well as glucose and sorbose, e.g.,
sorbitol, are
also suitable. Examples of disaccharide polyols which can be used include
maltose,
lactose, and sucrose, all of which contain eight hydroxyl groups.
' Preferred polyols for preparing the polyesters for use in the present
invention are selected
from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose, and
sucrose. Sucrose is
especially preferred.
The polyol starting material having at least four hydroxyl groups is
esterified on at least
four of the -OH groups with a fatty acid containing from about 8 to about 22
carbon
atoms. Examples of such fatty acids include caprylic, capric, lauric,
myristic, myristoleic,
palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, ricinoleic, linoleic, linolenic,
eleostearic, arachidic,
arachidonic, behenic, and erucic acid. The fatty acids can be derived from
naturally
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occurring or synthetic fatty acids; they can be saturated or unsaturated,
including
positional and geometrical isomers. However, in order to provide liquid
polyesters
preferred for use herein, at least about 50% by weight of the fatty acid
incorporated into
the polyester molecule should be unsaturated. Oleic and linoleic acids, and
mixtures
5 thereof, are especially preferred.
The polyol fatty acid polyesters useful in this invention should contain at
least four fatty
acid ester groups. It is not necessary that all of the hydroxyl groups of the
polyol be
esterified with fatty acid, but it is preferable that the polyester contain no
more than two
unesterified hydroxyl groups. Most preferably, substantially all of the
hydroxyl groups of
the polyol are esterified with fatty acid, i.e.; the polyol moiety is
substantially completely
esterified. The fatty acids esterified to the polyol molecule can be the same
or mixed, but
as noted above, a substantial amount of the unsaturated acid ester groups must
be present
to provide liquidity.
To illustrate the above points, a sucrose fatty triester would not be suitable
for use herein
because it does not contain the required four fatty acid ester groups. A
sucrose tetra-fatty
acid ester would be suitable, but is not preferred because it has more than
two unesterified
hydroxyl groups. A sucrose hexa-fatty acid ester would be preferred because it
has no
more than two unesterified hydroxyl groups. Highly preferred compounds in
which all
the hydroxyl groups are esterified with fatty acids include the liquid sucrose
octa
substituted fatty acid esters.
The following are non-limiting examples of specific polyol fatty acid
polyesters
containing at least four fatty acid ester groups suitable for use in the
present invention:
glucose tetraoleate, the glucose tetraesters of soybean oil fatty acids
(unsaturated), the
mannose tetraesters of mixed soybean oil fatty acids, the galactose
tetraesters of oleic
acid, the arabinose tetraesters of linoleic acid, xylose tetralinoleate,
galactose pentaoleate,
sorbitol tetraoleate, the sorbitol hexaesters of unsaturated soybean oil fatty
acids, xylitol
pentaoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoletate, sucrose hexaoleate,
sucrose
' hepatoleate, sucrose octaoleate, and mixtures thereof. As noted above,
highly preferred
polyol fatty acid esters are those wherein the fatty acids contain from about
14 to about 18
carbon atoms.
The preferred liquid polyol polyesters preferred for use herein have complete
melting
points below about 30oC, preferably below about 27.SoC, more preferably below
about
25oC. Complete melting points reported herein are measured by Differential
Scanning
Calorimetry (DSC).
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The polyol fatty acid polyesters suitable for use herein can be prepared by a
variety of
methods well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include:
transesterification
of the polyol with methyl, ethyl or glycerol fatty acid esters using a variety
of catalysts;
acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid chloride; acylation of the polyol
with a fatty acid
anhydride; and acylation of the polyol with a fatty acid, per se. See U.S.
Patent No.
2,831,854; U.S. Patent No. 4,005,196, to Jandacek, issued January 25, 1977.
A second essential component of the present invention is a branched chain
hydrocarbon
having an weight average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 15,000 ,
preferably from about 100 to 1000. Preferred for use in the compositions
herein are
branched chain hydrocarbons selected from isododecane, isohexadecane,
isoeicosane,
isooctahexacontane, isohexapentacontahectane, isopentacontaoctactane, and
mixture
thereof, especially isohexadecane and isooctacontane, and mixtures thereof.
The
branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbon is preferred herein from the viewpoint of
providing
improved skin feel and absorption characteristics.
I S Suitable for use herein are branched chain aliphatic hydrocarbons sold
under the trade
name Permethyl (RTM) and commercially available from Presperse Inc., P.O. Box
735,
South Plainfield, N.J. 07080, U.S.A. Particularly suitable from the viewpoint
of
improved skin fell, spreadability and application characteristics is a mixture
of iso-
hexadecane and isooctahexacontane.
The branched chain hydrocarbon is present in the compositions herein at a
level of from
about 0. I % to about 15%, preferably from about 0. I % to about 10%,
especially from
about 0.1 % to about 5% by weight of composition.
The present compositions can be used for any suitable purpose. In particular,
the present
compositions are suitable for topical application to the skin or hair. In
particular, the skin
care compositions can be in the form of creams, lotions, gels, and the like.
Preferably the
cosmetic compositions herein are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of
one or more
oil phases in an aqueous continuous phase, each oil phase comprising a single
oily
component or a mixture of oily components in miscible or homogeneous form but
said
different oiI phases containing different materials or combinations of
materials from each
other. The overall level of oil phase components in the compositions of the
invention is
preferably from about 0:1 % to about 60%, preferably from about 1 % to about
30% and
more preferably from about 1 % to about 10% by weight.
The present compositions preferably comprise, as either all or a portion of
the oil phase or
oil phases referred to above a first silicone-containing phase comprising a
crosslinked
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polyorganosiloxane polymer and a silicone oil, wherein the composition
comprises 0.1
to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from
about
0.5% to about 5%, by weight of composition, of the combination of crosslinked
silicone
and silicone oil.
The first silicone-containing phase comprises from about 10% to about 40%,
more
preferably from about 20% to about 30%, by weight of the first silicone-
containing phase,
of the crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer and from about 60% to about 90%,
preferably from about 70% to about 80%, by weight of the first silicone-
containing phase,
of the silicone oil.
The crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymer comprises polyorganosiloxane
polymer
crosslinked by a crosslinking agent. Crosslinking agents for use herein
include any
crosslinking agents useful for the preparation of crosslinked silicones.
Suitable
crosslinking agents herein include those represented by the following general
formula:
R~
i
i
(R)3Si - O Si - O Si(R)3
R2
z
where R1 is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, R2 is H or -(CH2)nCH=CH2, where n
is in
the range of from about 1 to about 50, z is in the range of from about 1 to
about 1000,
preferably from about 1 to about 100 and R is an alkyl group having from 1 to
50 carbon
atoms.
Preferably the crosslinking agent has the general formula
R~
(CH~3Si - O i i - O - Si(CH~3
R2
where R1, R2 and z are as defined above.
In especially preferred embodiments, the crosslinking agent has the following
general
formula:
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R~
(CHg)gSi - O Si - O SI(CH~3
R2
z
where z is in the range from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to
about 100.
The crosslinked polysiloxane polymer preferably comprises from about 10% to
about
50%, more preferably from about 20% to about 30%, by weight the crosslinked
polysiloxane polymer, of crosslinking agent.
Any polyorganosiloxane polymers suitable for use in skin care compositions can
be used
herein. Suitable polyorganosiloxane polymers for use herein include those
represented by
the following general formula:
3 I'
(R~Si - O Si - O i i - O Si(R)3
R4 ~ R2
4
P
wherein R1 is methyl, ethyl, propyl or phenyl, R2 is H or -(CH2)nCH=CH2, where
n is in
the range of from about 1 to about 50, R3 and R4 are independently selected
from methyl,
ethyl, propyl and phenyl, R is an end-gap, such as an optionally hydroxy-
substituted alkyl
group having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl group having from
1 to 5
carbon atoms, more preferably an alkyl group having 1 or 2 carbon atoms, p is
an integer
in the range of from about 1 to about 2000, preferably from about 1 to about
500, q is an
integer in the range of from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to
about 500.
In preferred embodiments the polyorganosiloxane is selected from polymers
having the
following general structure:
I 3 I'
(CHg)3Si - O i i - O i i - O Sl(CH~g
R4 ~ R2
4
P
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wherein R1, R2, R3, R4, p and q are as defined above.
As defined herein, p and q reflect the number of Si-O linkages in the polymer
chain and
R 1 and R2 and R3 and R4 may vary going from one monomer unit to the next. For
example, suitable polyorganosiloxane polymers for use herein include methyl
vinyl
dimethicone, methyl vinyl diphenyl dimethicone and methyl vinyl phenyl methyl
diphenyl dimethicone.
In order to achieve crosslinking between the polyorganosiloxane polymer and
the cross-
linking agent, an (-Si-H) group must crosslink with a -Si-(CH2~CH=CH2 group,
so that
for any specific crosslink, the group R2 must be different in the
polyorganosiloxane
polymer and the crosslinking agent. For example, for any specific crosslink,
when R2 is
(CH2)nCH=CH2 in the polyorganosiloxane polymer, R2 must be H in the
crosslinking
agent, and vice versa. However, there can be mixtures of R2 for each of the
polyorganosiloxane polymer and crosslinking agent. In preferred embodiments,
the
polyorganosiloxane polymer is selected from an alkylarylpolysiloxane polymer
having
the general formula:
CH3 CsHS CH3
(CH3)3Si - O Si - Si - O Si - O Si(CH3)3
I
CH3 C6H5 R2
I
n
wherein R2 is selected from -CH=CH2 or H, preferably -CH=CH2, and wherein 1 is
an
integer in the range of from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 1 to
about 500,
m is an integer in the range from 0 to about 1000, preferably from about 0 to
about 500,
and n is an integer in the range of from about 1 to about 1000, preferably
from about 1 to
about 100.
In particularly preferred embodiments the polyorganosiloxane polymer is
selected from
an alkylarylpolysiloxane polymer having the general formula:
CH3 CsH5 CH3
I I
(CH3)3Si - O Si - Si - O Si - O Si(CH3)3
I
CH3 CgHS CH=CH2
I m n
wherein 1, m and n are as defined above. In preferred embodiments m is in the
range of
from about 1 to about 1000, preferably from about 200 to about 800.
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The first silicone-containing phase also comprises a silicone oil. Any
straight chain,
branched and cyclic silicones suitable for use in skin care compositions can
be used
herein. The silicone oils can be volatile or non-volatile. Suitable silicone
oils for use
herein include silicone oils having a weight average molecular weight of about
100,000 or
5 less, preferably about 50,000 or less. Preferably the silicone oil is
selected from silicone
oils having a weight average molecular weight in the range from about 100 to
about
50,000, and preferably from about 200 to about 40,000. In preferred
embodiments, the
silicone oil is selected from dimethicone, decamethylcycIopentasiloxane,
octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and phenyl methicone, and mixtures thereof, most
10 preferably phenyl methicone.
Suitable materials for use in the first silicone-containing phase are
available under the
tradename KSG supplied by Shinetsu Chemical Co., Ltd, for example KSG-15, KSG-
16,
KSG-17, KSG-18. These materials contain a combination of crosslinked
polyorgano-
siloxane polymer and silicone oil. Particularly preferred for use herein,
especially in
combination with the organic amphiphilic emulsifier material, is KSG-18. The
assigned
INCI names for KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-17 and KSG-18 are Cyclomethicone
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Dimethicone/Vinyl
Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cyclomethicone Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone
Crosspolymer and Phenyl Trimethicone Dimethicone/Phenyl Vinyl Dimethicone
Crosspolymer, respectively.
Compositions herein preferably also comprise a second non-crosslinked silicone-
containing phase. In preferred embodiments the second silicone-containing
phase is
present in a level of from about 0.1 % to about 20%, especially from about 0.1
% to about
10% by weight of composition.
Suitable silicone fluids for use in the second silicone-containing phase
herein include
water-insoluble silicones inclusive of non-volatile polyalkyl and polyaryl
siloxane gums
and fluids, volatile cyclic and linear polyalkylsiloxanes, polyalkoxylated
silicones, amino
' and quaternary ammonium modified silicones, and mixtures thereof.
In preferred embodiments the second silicone-containing phase comprises a
silicone gum
or a mixture of silicones including the silicone gum. As used herein, the term
"silicone
gum" means high molecular weight silicone-based fluids having a mass-average
molecular weight in excess of about 200,000 and preferably from about 200,000
to about
400,000. Silicone oils generally have a molecular weight of less than about
200,000.
Typically, silicone gums have a viscosity at 25°C in excess of about
1,000,000 mm2.s-1.
The silicone gums include dimethicones as described by Petrarch and others
including
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US-A-4,152,416, May 1, 1979 to Spitzer, et al, and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and
Technology of Silicones. New York: Academic Press 1968. Also describing
silicone
gums are General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE
54 and
SE 76.
Silicone gums for use herein include any silicone gum suitable for use in a
skin care
composition. Suitable silicone gums for use herein are silicone gums having a
molecular
weight of from about 200,000 to about 4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol,
fluorosilicone and dimethicone and mixtures thereof.
Dimethiconol-based silicones suitable for use herein can have the chemical
structure
HO(CH3)2Si0[(CH3)2Si0]n(CH3)2SiOH where n is from about 2000 to about 40,000,
preferably from about 3000 to about 30,000.
Exemplary fluorosilicones useful herein can have a molecular weight of from
about
200,000 to about 300,000, preferably from about 240,000 to about 260,000 and
most
preferably about 250,000.
Specific examples of silicone gums include polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethyl-
siloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,
poly(dimethylsiloxane)(diphenyl)(methyl-
vinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof.
The silicone gum used herein can be incorporated into the composition as part
of a
mixture of silicones. When the silicone gum is incorporated as part of a
mixture of
silicones, the silicone gum preferably constitutes from about 5% to about 40%,
especially
from about 10% to 20% by weight of the silicone mixture. The silicone or
silicone
mixture preferably constitutes from about 0. I % to about 20%, more preferably
from about
0.1 % to about I 5%, and especially from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight of
composition.
Suitable silicone gum-based silicone mixtures for use in the second silicone-
containing
phase of the compositions herein include mixtures consisting essentially of:
(i) a silicone having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about
4,000,000 selected from dimethiconol, fluorosilicone and dimethicone and
mixtures thereof; and
(ii) a silicone-based carrier having a viscosity from about 0.65 mm2.s-I to
about 100 mm2.s-1,
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wherein the ratio of i) to ii) is from about 10:90 to about 20:80 and wherein
said
silicone gum-based component has a final viscosity of from about 500 mm2.s-1
to
about 10,000 mm2.s-1.
The silicone-based carriers suitable for use herein include certain silicone
fluids. The
silicone fluid can be either a polyalkyl siloxane, a polyaryl siloxane, a
polyalkylaryl
siloxane or a polyether siloxane copolymer. Mixtures of these fluids can also
be used and
are preferred in certain executions.
The polyalkyl siloxane fluids that can be used include, for example,
polydimethylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from about 0.65 to 600,000
mm2.s-1,
preferably from about 0.65 to about 10,000 mm2.s-1 at 25°C. These
siloxanes are
available, for example, from the General Electric Company as the Viscasil
(RTM) series
and from Dow Corning as the Dow Corning 200 series. The essentially non-
volatile poly-
alkylarylsiloxane fluids that can be used include, for example,
polymethylphenyl-
siloxanes, having viscosities of about 0.65 to 30,000 mm2.s-1 at 25°C.
These siloxanes
are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075
methyl phenyl
fluid or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid. Also suitable for use
herein are
certain volatile cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes having a ring structure
incorporating from
about 3 to about 7 (CH3)2Si0 moieties.
The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set
forth in
Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 29, 1970. Preferably the
viscosity
of the silicone blend constituting the second fluid phase ranges from about
500 mm2.s-1
to about 100,000 mm2.s-l,.preferably from about 1000 mm2.s-1 to about 10,000
mm2.s
1
An especially preferred silicone-gum based component for use in the
compositions herein
is a dimethiconol gum having a molecular weight of from about 200,000 to about
4,000,000 along with a silicone carrier with a viscosity of about 0.65 to 100
mm2.s-1. An
example of this silicone component is Dow Corning Q2-1403 (85% 5 mm2.s-1
Dimethicone Fluid/15% Dimethiconol) and Dow Corning Q2-1401 available from Dow
Corning.
Another class of silicone suitable for use in the second silicone-containing
phase herein
include polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least
one poly-
diorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment, said
polydiorgano-
siloxane segment consisting essentially of RbSiO(4_b)/2 siloxane units wherein
b has a
value of from about 0 to about 3, inclusive, there being an average value of
approximately
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2 R radicals per silicon for all siloxane units in the copolymer, and R
denotes a radical
selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a divalent radical bonding said
polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxane segment, at least about
95% of all
R radicals being methyl; and said polyoxyalkylene segment having an average
molecular
weight of at least about 1000 and consisting of from about 0 to about 50 mol
percent
polyoxypropylene units and from about 50 to about 100 mol percent
polyoxyethylene
units, at least one terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene segment being
bonded to said
polydiorganosiloxane segment, any terminal portion of said polyoxyalkylene
segment not
bonded to said polydiorganosiloxane segment being satisfied by a terminating
radical; the
weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in
said
copolymer having a value of from about 2 to about 8. Such polymers are
described in
US-A-4,268,499.
Preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers
having
the general formula:
CH3 CH3 CH3 CH3
I I I
H3C Si O (Si O)-- (Si-_- O) _-_Si_.- CH3
i x
I ~ Y
CH3 CH3
C3H6 CH3
O (C2H40) a (C3H60) bR
wherein x and y are selected such that the weight ratio of polydiorgano-
siloxane segments
to polyoxalkalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the mol ratio of
a:(a+b) is from
about 0.5 to about 1, and R is a chain terminating group, especially selected
from
hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl,
such as
phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, butoxy; benzyloxy; aryloxy,
such as
. phenoxy; alkenyloxy, such as vinyloxy and allyloxy; acyloxy, such as
acetoxy, acryloxy
and propionoxy and amino, such as dimethylamino.
The number of and average molecular weights of the segments in the copolymer
are such
that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene
segments in
the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4Ø
Suitable copolymers are available commercially under the tradenames Belsil
(RTM) from
Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Gesch~ftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and Abil
(RTM) from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip,
Middlesex, HA4
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WO 99/38486 PGT/US98/21521
14
OYL, for example Belsil (RTM) 6031 atxd Abil (RTM) B88183. A particularly
preferred
copolymer for use herein includes Dow Corning DC3225C which has the CTFA
designation Dimethicone/Dimethicone copolyol.
In preferred embodiments, a third oil phase is present in an amount of from
about 0.1 % to
S about 15%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 10% by weight of
composition. The
third oil phase can be either a separate phase or can form one phase together
with either or
both of the first and second silicone phases. Preferably, the third oil phase
is a separate
phase.
The third oil phase preferably comprises a non-silicone organic oil, such as a
natural or
synthetic oiI selected from mineral, vegetable, and animal oils, fats and
waxes, fatty acid
esters, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof, which ingredients
are useful for
achieving emollient cosmetic properties. The first oil phase component is
preferably
essentially silicone-free, i.e., it contains no more than about 10%,
preferably no more than
about 5% by weight of silicone-based materials. It will be understood that the
oil phase
may contain, for example, up to about 25%, preferably up to only about 10% of
oil phase
soluble emulsifier ingredients. Such ingredients are not to be considered as
oil phase
components from the viewpoint of determining the oil phase level and required
HLB. In
preferred embodiments, the overall required HLB of the oil phase is from about
8 to about
12, especially from about 9 to about 11, required HLB being determined by
summing the
individual required HLB values for each component of the oil phase multiplied
by its
W/W percentage in the oil phase (see ICI Literature on HLB system; ICI
reference paper
ref S 1/0010/303/15m., first printed in 1976, revised in 1984 and May 1992).
Suitable first oil phase components for use herein include, for example,
optionally
hydroxy-substituted Cg-C50 unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof,
beeswax, saturated
and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol,
hydrocarbons
such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters (see US-A-
3988255,
Seiden, issued October 26 1976), oils consisting of greater than 20%
cholesterol esters,
lanolin and lanolin derivatives, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as
almond oil,
peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits,
walnuts, palm nuts,
pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil,
poppyseed oil,
pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil,
hazelnut oil, olive
oil, grapeseed oil, shea butter, shorea butter, and sunflower seed oil and Cl-
C24 esters of
dimer and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimerate, diisostearyhnalate,
diisostearyldimerate and triisostearyltrimerate. Of the above, highly
preferred are the
mineral oils, petrolatums, unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof and
mixtures thereof.
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Preferred embodiments herein comprise from about 0.1 % to about 10% by weight
of an
unsaturated fatty acid or ester. Preferred unsaturated fatty acids and esters
for use herein
are optionally hydroxy substituted Cg-CSp unsaturated fatty acids and esters,
especially
esters of ricinoleic acid. The unsaturated fatty acid or ester component is
valuable herein
5 in combination with the liquid crystal-forming emulsifier for improving the
skin feel and
rub-in characteristics of the compositon. Highly preferred in this respect is
cetyl
ricinoleate.
Amphiphilic Surfactant
A further preferred component of the compositions herein is an organic
amphiphilic
10 surfactant which is capable of forming smectic lyotropic crystals in
product or when the
product is being applied to the skin at ambient or elevated temperatures.
Preferably the
amphiphilic surfactant is capable of forming liquid crystals at a temperature
in the range
from about 20°C to about 40°C. Preferably the amphiphilic
surfactant is capable of
forming smectic lyotropic liquid crystals. Once application of the product to
the skin has
15 been completed, liquid crystals may not be identifiable on the skin surface
or stratum
corneum. The amphiphilic surfactant is preferably present at a level of from
about 0.1
to about 20%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, by weight.
The liquid-crystal forming amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein
contain both
hydrophilic and lipophilic groupings and exhibit a marked tendency to adsorb
at a surface
or interface, i.e. they are surface-active. Amphiphilic surface-active
materials for use
herein include nonionic (no charge), anionic (negative charge), cationic
(positive charge)
and amphoteric (both charges) based on whether or not they ionize in aqueous
media.
In the literature, liquid crystals are also referred to as anisotropic fluids,
a fourth state of
matter, surfactant association structure or mesophases. Those terms are often
used
interchangeably. The term "lyotropic" means a liquid crystalline system
containing a
polar solvent, such as water. The liquid crystals used herein are preferably
lamellar,
- hexagonal, rod or vesicle structures or mixtures thereof.
The liquid crystalline phase utilized in the compositions of the invention can
be identified
in various ways. A liquid crystal phase flows under shear and is characterised
by a
viscosity that is significantly different from the viscosity of its isotropic
solution phase.
Rigid gels do not flow under shear like liquid crystals. Also, when viewed
with a
polarized light microscope, liquid crystals show identifiable birefringence,
as, for
example, planar lamellar birefringence, whereas when isotropic solutions and
rigid gels
are viewed under polarized light, both show dark fields. Other suitable means
for
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16
identifying liquid crystals include X-ray diffraction, NMR spectroscopy and
transmission
electron microscopy.
In general terms, the organic amphiphilic surfactant preferred for use herein
can be
described as a liquid, semi-solid or waxy water-dispersible material having
the formula X-
Y where X represents a hydrophilic, especially nonionic moiety and Y
represents a
lipophilic moiety.
Organic amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein include those having a
weight
average HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) in the range from about 2 to
about 12,
preferably from about 4 to about 8.
Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants employed herein have a long
saturated or
unsaturated branched or linear lipophilic chain having from about 12 to about
30 carbon
atoms such as oleic, lanolic, tetradecylic, hexadecylic, isostearylic, lauric,
coconut, stearic
or alkyl phenyl chains. When the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic material
forming
the liquid crystal phase is a nonionic group, a polyoxyethylene, a
polyglycerol, a polyol
i 5 ester, oxyalkylated or not, and, for example, a polyoxyalkylated sorbitol
or sugar ester,
can be employed. When the hydrophilic group of the amphiphilic surfactant
forming the
liquid crystal phase is an ionic group, advantageously there can be used, as
the
hydrophilic group, a phosphatidylcholine residue as found in lecithin.
Hydrophilic moieties suitable for use herein are selected from:
(1) ethers of linear, or branched, polyglycerol having the formula R-(Gly~-OH
where
n is a whole number between 1 and 6, R is selected from aliphatic, linear or
branched, saturated or unsaturated chains of 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the
hydrocarbon radicals of lanolin alcohols and the 2-hydroxy alkyl residue of
long
chain, alpha-diols, and Gly represents a glycerol residue;
(2) polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, for example those of the formula
R1 (C2 H40~ OH wherein Rl is C12-C30 linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl and
x averages from about 0 to about 20, preferably from about 0.1 to about 6,
more
preferably from about 1 to about 4;
(3) polyol mono-, di-,or tri-esters, optionally polyalkoxylated, wherein the
polyols are
preferably selected from sugars, C2-C6 alkylene glycols, glycerol,
polyglycerols,
sorbitol, sorbitan, polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols and wherein
the
polyalkoxylated polyol esters contain from about 2 to about 20 preferably from
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17
about 2 to about 4 moles of alkylene oxide (especially ethylene oxide) per
mole of
polyol ester;
(4) natural and synthetic phosphoglycerides, gIycolipids and sphingolipids,
for
example cerebrosides, ceramides and lecithin.
Examples of amphiphilic surfactants suitable for use herein include Cg-C30
alkyl and
acyl-containing amphoteric, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants as set
out below.
Amphoteric
N-alkyl amino acids (e.g., sodium N-alkylaminoacetate);
N-lauroylglutamic acid cholesterol ester {e.g., Eldew CL-301 Ajinomoto)
Anionic
Acylglutamates (e.g., disodium N-lauroylglutamate);
Sarcosinates (e.g., sodium lauryl sarcosinate. Grace, Seppic);
Taurates (e.g., sodium lauryl taurate. sodium methyl cocoyl taurate);
Carboxylic acids and salts (e.g., potassium oleate; potassium laurate;
potassium-10-
undecenoate; potassium 11-(p-styryl) - undecanoate);
Ethoxylated carboxylic salts (e.g., sodium carboxy methyl alkyl ethoxylate);
Ether carboxylic acids;
Phosphoric acid esters and salts (e.g., lecithin; DEA-oleth-10 phosphate);
Acyl isethionates (e.g., sodium 2-lauroyloxyethane sulfonate);
Alkane sulfonates (e.g., branched sodium x-alkane sulfonate (x/1);
Sulfosuccinates e.g.,
Sodium dibutyl sulfosuccinate,
Sodium di-2-pentyl sulfosuccinate,
Sodium di-2-ethylbutyl sulfosuccinate,
Sodium di-hexyl-sulfosuccinate,
Sodium di-2 ethylhexyl sulfosuccinate (AOT),
- Sodium di-2-ethyldodecyl sulfosuccinate,
Sodium di-2-ethyloctadecyl sulfosuccinate,
Dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate,
Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (MacKanate El, Mclntyre Group Ltd.)
Sulfuric acid esters (e.g., sodium 2-ethylhept-6-enyl sulfate; sodium 11-
heneicosyl
sulfate; sodium 9-heptadecyl sulfate).
Alkyl sulfates (e.g., MEA alkyl sulfate such as MEA-lauryl sulfate)
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WO 99/38486 PCT/US98/21521
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Cationic
Alkyl Imidazolines (e.g., alkyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearyl hydroxyethyl
imidazoline (supplier Akzo, Finetex and Hoechst));
Ethoxylated Amines (e.g., PEG-n alkylamine, PEG-n alkylamino propylamine,
Poloxamine, PEG-cocopolyamine, PEG-15 tallow amine);
Alkylamines (e.g., dimethyl alkylamine; dihydroxyethyl alkylamine dioleate)
Quaternaries:
Alkylbenzyl dimethylammonium salts (e.g., stearalkonium chloride);
Alkyl betaines (e.g., dodecyl dimethyl ammonio acetate, oleyl betaine);
Heterocylic ammonium salts (e.g., alkylethyl morpholinium ethosulfate);
Tetraalkylammonium salts (e.g., dimethyl distearyl quaternary ammonium
chloride
(Witco));
Bis-isostearamidopropyl hydroxypropyl diammonium chloride (Schercoquat 21AP
from
Scher Chemicals);
1 S 1.8-Bis (decyldimethylammonio)-3, 6 dioxaoctane ditosylate
Nonionic Surfactants
Ethoxylated glycerides;
Monoglycerides (e.g., monoolein; monolinolein; monolaurin; 1-dodecanoyl-
glycerol
monolaurin; 1, 13-docosenoyl-glycerol monoerucin
diglyceride fatty acid (e.g., diglycerol monoisostearate Cosmol 41,
fractionated. Nisshin
Oil Mills Ltd.);
Polyglyceryl esters (e.g., triglycerol monooleate (Grindsted TS-T122),
diglycerol
monooleate (Grindsted TST-T101);
Polyhydric alcohol esters and ethers (e.g., sucrose cocoate, cetostearyl
glucoside
(Montanol, Seppic), !3 octyl glucofuranoside esters, alkyl glucoside such C 10-
C 16
(Fienkel));
Diesters of phosphoric acid (e.g., sodium dioleyl phosphate);
Alkylamido propyl betaine (e.g., cocoamido propyl betaine);
Amide: (e.g., N-(dodecanoylaminoethyl)-2-pyrrolidone);
Amide oxide: e.g., 1, 1 Dihydroperfluorooctyldimethylamine oxide,
Dodecyldimethylamine oxide,
2-Hydroxydodecyldimethylamine oxide,
2-Hydroxydodecyl-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine oxide,
2-Hydroxy-4-oxahexadecyldimethylamine oxide,
Ethoxylated amides (e.g., PEG-n acylamide);
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PCT/US98/21521
19
Ammonio phosphates (e.g., didecanoyl lecithin);
Amine (e.g., octylamine);
Ammonio amides e.g.,
N-trimethylammoniodecanamidate,
N-trimethylammoniododecanamidate,
Ammonio carboxylates e.g.,
dodecyldimethylammonioacetate,
6-didodecylmethylammoniohexanoate,
Phosphoric and phosphoric esters and amides e.g.,
methyl-N-methyl-dodecylphosphonamidate,
dimethyl dodecylphosphonate,
dodecyl methyl methylphosphonate,
N,N-dimethyl dodecylphosphonic diamide
Ethoxylated alcohols
1 S Polyoxyethylene (Cg) e.g.,
pentaoxyethylene glycol p-n-octylphenyl ether
hexaoxyethylene glycol p-n-octylphenyl ether
nonaoxyethylene glycol p-n-octylphenyl ether
Polyoxyethylene (C10) e.g.,
pentaoxyethylene glycol p-n-decylphenyl ether,
decyl glyceryl ether, 4-oxatetradecan-1, 2-diol,
nonaoxyethylene glycol p-n-decylphenyl ether
Polyoxyethylene ( C 11 ) e.g.,
Tetraoxyethylene glycol undecyl ether
Polyoxyethylene (C12) e.g.,
3, 6, 9, 13-tetraoxapentacosan 1, 11-diol,
3, 6, 10-trioradocosan-1, 8-diol,
3, 6, 9, 12, 16-pentaoxaoctacosan 1, 14-diol,
3,6,9,12,15-pentaoxanonacosan-1, 17-diol,
3, 7-dioxanonadecan-1, 5-diol,
3, 6, 12, 1 S, 19-hexaoxahentriacontan-1, 16-diol,
pentaoxyethylene glycol dodecyl ether,
monaoxyethylene glycol p-n-dodecylphenyl ether,
Polyoxyethylene(C14) e.g.,
3, 6, 9, 12, 16-pentaoxaoctacosan-1, 14-diol,
3, 6, 9, 12,15,19-heraoxatriacontan-1, 17-diol,
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Sulfone diimines e.g.,
decyl methyl sulfone diimine
Sulfoxides e.g.,
3-decyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl methylsulfoxide
5 4-decyloxy-3-hydroxybutyl methyl sulfoxide
Sulfoximines e.g.,
N-methyl dodecyl methyl sulfoximine
Preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are nonionic
amphiphilic
surfactants having a hydrophilic moiety as in (3) above, and a lipophilic
selected from
10 long saturated or unsaturated branched chain or linear lipophilic chains
having from about
12 to about 30 carbon atoms such as oleic, lanolic, tetradecylic, hexadecylic,
isostearylic,
lauric, coconut, stearic or alkyl phenyl chains.
Highly preferred organic amphiphilic surfactants for use herein are selected
from
polyhydric alcohol esters and ethers. Especially preferred amphiphilic
surfactants for use
15 herein are sugar esters and polyalkoxylated sugar esters.
The sugar esters for use in this invention can be classified as hydrocarbyl
and alkyl
polyoxyalkylene esters of cyclic polyhydroxy saccharides wherein one or more
of the
hydroxyl groups on the saccharide moiety is substituted with an acyl or
polyoxyalkylene
group. Hydrocarbyl sugar esters can be prepared in well-known fashion by
heating an
20 acid or acid halide with sugar, i.e., by a simple esterification reaction.
The sugars employed in the preparation of the sugar esters include
monosaccharides, di-
saccharides and oligo-saccharides well known in the art, for example, the
dextrorotatory
and levorotatory forms of glucose, fructose, mannose, galactose, arabinose and
xylose.
Typical di-saccharides include maltose, cellibiose, lactose, and trehalose.
Typical tri-
saccharides include raffinose and gentianose. The di-saccharides are preferred
for use
herein, especially sucrose.
. Sucrose can be esterified at one or more of its eight hydroxyl groups to
provide the
sucrose esters useful herein. When sucrose is combined with an esterification
agent in a
1:1 mole ratio, sucrose monoesters are formed; and when the ratio of
esterification agent
to sucrose is 2:1, the di- ester is formed. Especially preferred are the mono-
, di- and tri-
acyl sugar esters and mixtures thereof wherein the acyl substituents contain
from about 8
to about 24, preferably from about 8 to about 20 carbon atoms and 0,1 or 2
unsaturated
moieties. Of the mono-acyl and di-acyl sugar esters, the respective esters of
di-saccharide
sugars, especially sucrose, wherein the acyl groups contain from about 8 to
about 20
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WO 99/38486 PCT/US98/21521
21
carbon atoms are especially preferred. Preferred sugar esters herein are
sucrose cocoate,
sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose monolaurate, sucrose
monomyristate, sucrose monopalmitate, sucrose monostearate, sucrose
monooleate,
sucrose rnonolinoleate, sucrose dioleate, sucrose dipalmitate, sucrose
distearate, sucrose
dilaurate and sucrose dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Sucrose cocoate has
been found
to be particularly efficacious in the compositions herein. In mixtures of mono-
acyl with
di-, and tri-acyl sugar esters, the mono- and di-acyl esters preferably
comprise at least
about 40%, more preferably from about 50% to about 95% by weight of the total
sugar
ester mixture.
Other sugar esters suitable for use in the compositions of this invention are
the alkyl
polyoxyalkylene sugar esters wherein one hydroxyl group is substituted with a
Cg-C 1 g
alkyl group and wherein one or more of the hydroxyl groups on the sugar
molecule are
replaced by an ester or ether substituent containing the moiety [(CH2)x-O]y
wherein x is
an integer from 2 to about 4, preferably 2, and wherein y is an integer from
about 1 to
about S0, preferably 8 to 30 polyoxyalkylene substituents. Especially
preferred herein are
sugar esters wherein the polyoxyalkylene substituent is a polyoxyethylene
substituent
containing from about 8 to about 30 polyoxyethylene groups. Such materials
wherein
sorbitan is the sugar moiety are commercially available under the tradename
"Tweens".
Such mixed esters can be prepared by first acylating a sugar at a 1:1 mole
ratio with a
hydrocarbyl acid halide followed by reaction with the corresponding
polyoxyalkylene
acid halide or alkylene oxide to provide the desired material. The simple
polyoxyalkylene
ester of di-saccharides, especially sucrose, wherein the polyoxyalkylene
groups contain
up to about 20 alkylene oxide moieties are another useful class of sugar
esters herein. A
preferred sugar ester of this class is sorbitol trioleate ethoxylated with 20
moles of
ethylene oxide. Mixtures of sugar esters with other polyol esters, eg.
glycerol esters, are
also suitable for use herein, for example, Palm Oil Sucroglyceride (Rhone-
Poulenc).
As used herein, the term "lecithin" refers to a material which is a
phosphatide. Naturally
occurring or synthetic phosphatides can be used. PhosphatidyIcholine or
lecithin is a
glycerine esterified with a choline ester of phosphoric acid and two fatty
acids, usually a
long chain saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 16-20 carbons and up to
4 double
bonds. Other phosphatides capable of forming lameliar or hexagonal liquid
crystals can
be used in place of the lecithin or in combination with it. These phosphatides
are glycerol
esters with two fatty acids as in the lecithin, but the choline is replaced by
ethanolamine
(a cephalin), or serine (-aminopropanoic acid; phosphatidyl serine) or an
inositol
CA 02319161 2000-07-27
WO 99/38486 PCTNS98/21521
22
(phosphatidyl inositol). While the invention herein is exemplified with
lecithin, it is
understood that these other phosphatides can be used herein.
A variety of lecithins can be used. American Lecithin Company supplies a
Nattermann
Phospholipid, Phospholipan 80 and Phosal 75. Other lecithins which can be used
alone or
in combination with these are: Actifla Series, Centrocap series, Central Ca,
Centrol series,
Centrolene, Centrolex, Centromix, Centrophase and Centrolphil Series from
Central
Soya; Alcolec and Alcolec 439-C from American Lecithin; Canaspersa from Canada
Packers, Lexin K and Natipide from American Lecithin; and L-Ciearate, Clearate
LV and
Clearate WD from the W.A. Cleary Co. Lecithins are supplied dissolved in
ethanol, fatty
acids, triglycerides and other solvents. They are usually mixtures of
Iecithins and range
from 15% to 50% of the solution as supplied. Both natural and synthetic
lecithins can be
used. Natural lecithins are derived from oilseeds such as sunflower seeds,
soybeans,
safflower seeds and cottonseed. The lecithins are separated from the oil
during the
refining process.
The organic amphiphilic surfactant has been found to be especially valuable
herein for
improving the stability and skin feel of the compositions of the invention. It
is preferably
incorporated into the composition in an amount of from about 0.1 % to about
20% ,
preferably from about 0.1 % to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.1 %
to about
8% by weight of composition.
Highly preferred herein is a fatty acid ester blend based on a mixture of
sorbitan or
sorbitol fatty acid ester and sucrose fatty acid ester, the fatty acid in each
instance being
preferably Cg-C24, more preferably C 10-C20. The preferred fatty acid ester
emulsifier
from the viewpoint of moisturisation is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C 16-
C20 fatty acid
ester with sucrose C 1 p-C 16 fatty acid ester, especially sorbitan stearate
and sucrose
cocoate. This is commercially available from ICI under the trade name Arlatone
2121.
A highly preferred ingredient of the compositions herein is urea which is
preferably
present in a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, more preferably from about
0.5% to
about 10% and especially from about 1 % to about 5% by weight of composition.
In preferred embodiments, the oil phase and organic amphiphilic surfactant
when present
are premixed in water at a temperature above the Kraft Point of the organic
amphiphilic
surfactant (but preferably below about 60°C) to form a liquid
crystaUoil in water
dispersion prior to addition of the urea. The urea is found to be especially
effective herein
in combination with the amphiphilic emulsifier surfactant and the polyol fatty
acid
polyester for providing outstanding skin moisturisation and softening in the
context of an
CA 02319161 2000-07-27
WO 99138486 PCT/US98/21521
23
oil-in-water skin care emulsion composition. Moreover, it is surprisingly
found that the
urea is rendered more stable to hydrolytic degradation, thereby allowing an
increase in
compositional pH.
A wide variety of optional ingredients such as further emollients, non-
occlusive
S moisturizers, humectants, gelling agents, neutralizing agents, perfumes,
colouring agents
and surfactants, can be added to the skin compositions herein.
The compositions of the present invention can comprise emollient materials
selected from
compounds of formula:
R2 O
//
RL C - (CH2)x - C
R3 OR4
I0
wherein R1 is selected from H or CH3, R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected
from
C1-C2p straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and x is an integer of from I-
20. Preferred
emollients for use herein are described in W098/22085. Particularly preferred
emollients
for use herein are isononyl isononanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl
isostearate, or
I S mixtures thereof. The emollient material is preferably present in the
compositions at a
level of from about 0.1 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1 % to about
5%,
especially from about 1% to about 3% by weight of composition.
The compositions herein can comprise a humectant. Suitable humectants for use
herein
include sorbitol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol,
ethoxylated glucose
20 derivatives, hexanetriol, glycerine, glycine, hyaluronic acid, arginine,
Ajidew (NaPCA),
water-soluble polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants and panthenols. A preferred
humectant
herein is glycerine (sometimes known as glycerol or glycerin). Glycerine is
especially
preferred in the compositions of the invention from the viewpoint of boosting
moisturisation. Also preferred for use herein is butylene glycol. Particularly
preferred
2~ from the viewpoint of boosting moisturisation is a combination of glycerine
and urea.
In the present compositions, the humectant is preferably present at a level of
from about
0.1 % to about 20%, more preferably from about 1 % to about 15%, and
especially from
about 5% to about 15% by weight of composition.
Suitable polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants for use in the compositions of
this invention
30 are available under the trademark Lubrajel (RTM) from Guardian Chemical
Corporation,
230 Marcus Blvd., Hauppage, N.Y. 11787. In general, Lubrajels can be described
as
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WO 99/38486 PCT/US98l21521
24
hydrates or clathrates which are formed by the reaction of sodium glycerate
with a
methacrylic acid polymer. Thereafter, the hydrate or clathrate is stabilized
with a small
amount of propylene glycol, followed by controlled hydration of the resulting
product.
Lubrajels are marketed in a number of grades of varying glycerate: polymer
ratio and
S viscosity. Suitable Lubrajels include Lubrajel TW, Lubrajel CG and Lubrajel
MS,
Lubrajel WA, Lubrajel DV and so-called Lubrajel Oil.
At least part (up to about 5% by weight of composition) of the humectant can
be
incorporated in the form of an admixture with a particulate cross-linked
hydrophobic
acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, itself preferably present in an amount of
from about
0.1 % to about 10%, which can be added either to the aqueous or disperse
phase. This
copolymer is particularly valuable for reducing shine and controlling oil
while helping to
provide effective moisturization benefits and is described in further detail
by
W096/03964, incorporated herein by reference.
The compositions of the invention can also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent
at a level
1 S preferably from about 0.01 % to about 10%, more preferably from about
0.02% to about
2%, and especially from about 0.02% to about 0.5%. The gelling agent
preferably has a
viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20°C, Brookfield RVT) of at least about
4000 mPa.s,
more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa.s and especially at least 50,000
mPa.s.
Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water-
soluble or
colloidally water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g.
hydroxyethyl
cellulose, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose),
polyvinylpyrrolidone,
polyvinylalcohol, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.
Preferred hydrophilic gelling agents herein, are acrylic acidlethyl acrylate
copolymers and
the carboxyvinyl polymers sold by the B.F. Goodrich Company under the trade
mark of
Carbopol resins. These resins consist essentially of a colloidally water-
soluble
polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with
from 0.75% to
2.00% of a crosslinking agent such as for example polyallyl sucrose or
polyallyl
pentaerythritol. Examples include Carbopol. 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950,
Carbopol
954, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water-
soluble
polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1 % of a polyallyl ether of
sucrose having
an average of about 5.8 allyl groups for each sucrose molecule. A most
preferred polymer
is Carbopol 954. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically-modified
cross-linked
polymers of acrylic acid having amphipathic properties available under the
Trade Name
Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA Designation: Acrylates/10-
30
CA 02319161 2000-07-27
WO 99/38486 PCT/US98/21521
Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer). A combination of the polyalkenyl. polyether
cross-linked
acrylic acid polymer and the hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic
acid polymer
is also suitable and is preferred for use herein. The gelling agents herein
are particularly
valuable for providing excellent stability characteristics over both nonmal
and elevated
5 temperatures.
Further useful gelling agents herein, are non-ionic polyacrylamide polymers
which may
be substituted, branched or unbranched. These polymers are non-ionic water
dispersible
polymers which can be formed from a variety of monomers including acrylamide
and
methacrylamide which are unsubstituted or substituted with one or two alkyl
groups
10 (preferably C,-Cs): Preferred are acrylate amides and methacrylate amides
in which the
amide nitrogen is unsubstituted, or substituted with one or two C,-CS alkyl
groups
(preferably: methyl, ethyl or propyl), for example, acrylamide,
methacrylamide, N-
methacrylamide, N-methylmethacrylamide, N,N-dimethylmethacrylamide and N,N-
dimethylacrylamide. These monomers are generally disclosed in US Pat. No.
4,963,348
15 to Bolich, Jr. et al., issued Oct, 16., 1990, incorporated by reference
herein. These
copolymers may optionally be formed using conventional neutral crosslinking
agents such
as dialkenyl compounds. The use of such crosslinking agents for cationic
polymers is
disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,628,078 to Glover et al. issued Dec. 9, 1986 and US
Pat. No.
4,599,379 to Flesher et al. issued Jul. 8, 1986 both of which are incorporated
by reference
20 herein. These non-ionic co-polymers have a molecular weight greater than
about
1,000,000 preferably greater than about 1,500,000 and range up to about
30,000,000.
Preferably as a result of being synthesised by reverse phase emulsion
polymerisation,
these non-ionic polyacrylamides are predispersed in a water-immiscible solvent
such as
mineral oil and the like, containing a high HLB surfactant (HLB from about 7
to about
25 10) which helps to facilitate water dispersibility of the polyacrylamide.
Most preferred
for use herein is the non-ionic polymer under the CTFA designation:
polyacrylamide and
isoparaffin and laureth-7, available under the trade name Sepigel 305 from
Seppic
Corporation. Other polyacrylamide polymers useful herein include mufti-block
copolymers of acrylamides and substituted acrylamides with acrylic acids and
substituted
acrylic acids. Commercially available examples of these mufti-block copolymers
include
Hypan SR150H, SSSOOV, SSSOOW, SSSAl00H, from Lipo Chemicals, Inc., (Patterson,
NJ).
Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic group containing
hydrophilic
gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium
hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.
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26
The compositions of the invention are in emulsion form and are preferably
formulated so
as to have a product viscosity of at least about 4,000 mPa.s and preferably in
the range
from about 4,000 to about 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from about 8,000 to
about
200,000 mPa.s and especially from about 10,000 to about 100,000 mPa.s and even
more
especially from about 10,000 to about 50,000 mPa.s (25°C, neat,
Brookfield RVT Spindle
No. 5).
The compositions of the invention can also contain from about 0.1 % to about
10%,
preferably from about 1 % to about 5% of a panthenol moisturizer. The
panthenol
moisturizer can be selected from D-panthenol ([RJ-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-
hydroxypropyl)J-
3,3-dimethylbutamide), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly,
panthetine,
pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose
and Vitamin
B complex. Highly preferred from the viewpoint of skin care and tack reduction
is D-
panthenol.
The compositions of the present invention can additionally comprise from about
0.001
to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.002% to about 0.05%, more preferably
from about
0.005% to about 0.02% by weight of carboxymethylchitin. Chitin is a
polysaccharide
which is present in the integument of lobsters and crabs and is a
mucopolysaccharide
having beta (1-4) linkages of N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Carboxymethylchitin is
prepared
by treating the purified chitin material with alkali followed by
monochloracetic acid. It is
sold commercially in the form of a dilute (approximately 0.1 % to 0.5% by
weight)
aqueous solution under the name Chitin Liquid available from A & E Connock
Ltd.,
Fordingbridge, Hampshire, England.
Other optional materials include keratolytic agents/desquamation agents such
as salicylic
acid; proteins and polypeptides and derivatives thereof; water-soluble or
solubilizable
preservatives preferably at a level of from about 0.1% to about 5%, such as
Germall 115,
methyl, ethyl, propyl and butyl esters of hydroxybenzoic acid, benzyl alcohol,
EDTA,
Euxyl (RTM) K400, Bromopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol) and
phenoxypropanol;
anti-bacterials such as Irgasan (RTM) and phenoxyethanol (preferably at levels
of from
0.1 % to about 5%); soluble or colloidally-soluble moisturising agents such as
hylaronic
acid and starch-grafted sodium polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-
1500
and IM-2500 available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Portsmith, VA,
USA
and described in USA-A-4,076,663; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C,
vitamin E
and vitamin K; alpha and beta hydroxyacids; aloe vera; sphingosines and
phytosphingosines, cholesterol; skin whitening agents; N-acetyl cysteine;
colouring
agents; perfumes and perfume solubilizers and additional
surfactants/emulsifiers such as
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27
fatty alcohol ethoxylates, ethoxylated polyol fatty acid esters, wherein the
polyol can be
selected from glycerine, propyleneglycol, ethyleneglycol, sorbitol, sorbitan,
polypropyleneglycol, glucose and sucrose. Examples include glyceryl
monohydroxy
stearate and stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with an average of from 10 to 200
moles of
ethyleneoxide per mole of alcohol and PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides.
Also useful herein are sunscreening agents. A wide variety of sunscreening
agents are
described in U.S. Patent No. 5,087,445, to Haffey et al., issued February 11,
1992; U.S.
Patent No. 5,073,372, to Turner et al., issued December 17, 1991; U.S. Patent
No.
5,073,371, to Turner et al. issued December 17, 1991; and Segarin, et al., at
Chapter VIII,
pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technolo~v. Preferred among those
sunscreens which are useful in the compositions of the instant invention are
those selected
from 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethyl-p-
aminobenzoate, p-
aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenyibenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene,
oxybenzone,
homomenthyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-t-
butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-
isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)
camphor,
titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica, iron oxide, Parsol MCX, Eusolex 6300,
Octocrylene,
Parsol 1789, and mixtures thereof.
Still other useful sunscreens are those disclosed in U.S. Patent No.
4,937,370, to Sabatelli,
issued June 26, 1990; and U.S. Patent No. 4,999,186, to Sabatelli et al.,
issued March 12,
1991. The sunscreening agents disclosed therein have, in a single molecule,
two distinct
chromophore moieties which exhibit different ultra-violet radiation absorption
spectra.
One of the chromophore moieties absorbs predominantly in the UVB radiation
range and
the other absorbs strongly in the UVA radiation range. These sunscreening
agents
provide higher efficacy, broader UV absorption, lower skin penetration and
longer lasting
efficacy relative to conventional sunscreens. Especially preferred examples of
these
sunscreens include those selected from 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic
acid
ester of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic
acid
. ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane, 4-N,N- (2-
ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid
ester of 2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)
methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane, and
mixtures
thereof.
Generally, the sunscreens can comprise from about 0.5% to about 20% of the
compositions useful herein. Exact amounts will vary depending upon the
sunscreen
chosen and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF). SPF is a commonly used
measure of
CA 02319161 2000-07-27
WO 99/38486 PCTNS98/21521
28
photoprotection of a sunscreen against erythema. See Federal Re ister, Vol.
43, No. 166,
pp. 38206-38269, August 25, 1978.
The compositions of the present invention can additionally comprise from about
0.1 % to
about 5% by weight of aluminium starch octenylsuccinate. Aluminium starch
S octenylsuccinate is the aluminium salt of the reaction product of
octenylsuccinic
anhydride with starch and is commercially available under the trade name from
Dry Flo
National Starch & Chemical Ltd. Dry Flo is useful herein from the viewpoint of
skin feel
and application characteristics.
Other optional materials herein include pigments which, where water-insoluble,
contribute to and are included in the total level of oil phase ingredients.
Pigments suitable
for use in the compositions of the present invention can be organic and/or
inorganic. Also
included within the term pigment are materials having a low colour or lustre
such as matte
finishing agents, and also light scattering agents. Examples of suitable
pigments are iron
oxides, acyglutamate iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine, and
mixtures
thereof. Depending upon the type of composition, a mixture of pigments will
normally be
used. The preferred pigments for use herein from the viewpoint of
moisturisation, skin
feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility are treated pigments. The
pigments can
be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester
oils.
The compositions herein can also comprise colorants. Especially preferred in
this respect
is (3-carotene which can be used at a level of from 0.00001 to 0.005%. At the
higher
levels ~i-carotene is additionally valuable as an anti-oxidant for reducing
skin damage by
free radicals.
The compositions of the present invention can also comprise a safe and
effective amount
of a vitamin B3 compound. The compositions of the present invention preferably
comprise from about 0.01% to about 50%, more preferably from about 0.1% to
about
10%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, and still more
preferably from
about 1% to about 5%, most preferably from about 2% to about 5%, of a vitamin
B3
compound.
As used herein, "vitamin B3 compound" means a compound having the formula:
R
N
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29
wherein R is -CONH2 (i.e., niacinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid) or -
CH20H (i.e.,
nicotinyl alcohol); derivatives thereof; and salts of any of the foregoing.
Exemplary
derivatives of the foregoing vitamin B3 compounds include nicotinic acid
esters,
including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids,
nicotinyl
S alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide and niacinamide N-
oxide.
Suitable esters of nicotinic acid include nicotinic acid esters of C 1-C22,
preferably C 1-
C 16, more preferably C 1-C6 alcohols. The alcohols are suitably straight-
chain or
branched chain, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated (including
aromatic), and
substituted or unsubstituted. The esters are preferably non-vasodilating. As
used herein,
"non-vasodilating" means that the ester does not commonly yield a visible
flushing
response after application to the skin in the subject compositions (the
majority of the
general population would not experience a visible flushing response, although
such
compounds may cause vasodilation not visible to the naked eye). Non-
vasodilating esters
of nicotinic acid include tocopherol nicotinate and inositol hexanicotinate;
tocopherol
nicotinate is preferred. A more complete description of vitamin B3 compounds
is given
in WO 98/22085.
Examples of the above vitamin B3 compounds are well known in the art and are
commercially available from a number of sources, e.g., the Sigma Chemical
Company
(St. Louis, MO); ICN Biomedicals, Inc. (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical
Company
(Milwaukee, WI). One or more vitamin B3 compounds may be used herein.
Preferred
vitamin B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopherol nicotinate. Niacinamide is
more
preferred.
Retinoids
In a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention also
contain a
retinoid. The vitamin B3 compound and retinoid provide unexpected benefits in
regulating skin condition, especially ~n therapeutically regulating signs of
skin aging,
. more especially wrinkles, lines, and pores. Without intending to be bound or
otherwise
limited by theory, it is believed that the vitamin B3 compound increases the
conversion of
certain retinoids to traps-retinoic acid, which is believed to be the
biologically active form
of the retinoid, to provide synergistic regulation of skin condition (namely,
increased
conversion for retinol, retinol esters, and retinal). In addition, the vitamin
B3 compound
unexpectedly mitigates redness, inflammation, dermatitis and the like which
may
otherwise be associated with topical application of retinoid (often referred
to, and herein-
after alternatively referred to as "retinoid dermatitis"). Furthermore, the
combined
vitamin B3 compound and retinoid tend to increase the amount and activity of
CA 02319161 2000-07-27
- WO 99/38486 PGT/US98/21521
thioredoxin, which tends to increase collagen expression levels via the
protein AP-1.
Therefore, the present invention enables reduced active levels, and therefore
reduced
potential for retinoid dermatitis, while retaining significant positive skin
conditioning
benefits. In addition, higher levels of retinoid may still be used to obtain
greater skin
5 conditioning efficacy, without undesirable retinoid dermatitis occurring.
As used herein, "retinoid" includes all natural and/or synthetic analogs of
Vitamin A or
retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A in
the skin as
well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds. The
retinoid is
preferably retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2 - C22 alkyl esters of retinol,
including retinyl
10 palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate), retinal, and/or retinoic
acid (including all-
trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid), more preferably retinoids
other than
retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially
available
from a number of sources, e.g., Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louis, MO), and
Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Preferred retinoids are retinol,
retinyl
15 palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl proprionate, retinal and combinations
thereof. More
preferred are retinol and retinyl palmitate. The retinoid may be included as
the
substantially pure material, or as an extract obtained by suitable physical
and/or chemical
isolation from natural (e.g., plant) sources.
The compositions preferably contain from or about 0.005% to or about 2%, more
20 preferably 0.01 % to or about 2%, retinoid. Retinol is most preferably used
in an amount
of from or about 0.01% to or about 0.15%; retinol esters are most preferably
used in an
amount of from or about 0.01 % to or about 2% (e.g., about 1 %).
The pH of the compositions is preferably from about 4 to about 9, more
preferably from
about 6 to about 8Ø The balance of the composition is water or an aqueous
Garner
25 suitable for topical application to the skin. The water content of the
compositions herein
is generally from about 30% to about 98.89%, preferably from about 50% to
about 95%
and especially from about 60% to about 90% by weight.
The compositions of the invention are preferably in the form of a moisturising
cream or
lotion, which can be applied to the skin as a leave-on product.
30 The invention is illustrated by the following examples:
Examples I to IV
Oil in water emulsions are prepared from the following ingredients using
conventional
formulating techniques.
Ingredient Ex I Ex II Ez III Ez IV
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WO 99/38486 PCT/US98/21521
31
(% w/w) . (% (% w/w) (%
w/w) w/w)
Cetyl Alcohol 0.72 0.72 0.72 0.72
Stearyl Alcohol 0.48 0.48 0.48 0.48
Stearic acid 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
PEG-100 Stearate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Arlatone 2121 ' 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Isohexadecane 1.33 1.33 1.33 1.5
Silicone Q21403z 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Fatty acid ester 0.67 0.67 0.67 1.5
of sugar3
Glycerin 7.0 7.0 7.0 9.0
Urea 2.0 0 0 2.0
Carbopol 9544 0.68 0.5 0.5 0.68
Carbopol 13825 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Ti02 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.15
D-Panthenol 0 0 0.5 0
Tocopherol Acetate 0 0 0.5 0
Niacinamide 2.0 2.0 2.0 0
Retinol 0 0 0.04 0
BHT 0 0 0.05 0
Glydant Plus 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
NaOH 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
NaCI 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02
Distilled water qs 100 qs qs 100 qs
100 100
Examples V to X
In rgredient Ex V Ex Ex VII Ex VIIIEx Ex
VI IX X
(% w/w) (%w/w) (% w/w)(% w/w)(% (%
w/w) w/w)
- Deionised Water to 100 to to 100 to 100 to to
100 100 100
Glycerine ~ 9.00 5.00 8.00 6.54 7.50 9.00
Urea 1.40 1.80 2.20 1.98 1.60 2.00
Kronos (TiOz)6 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
Arlatone 2121' 0.0 0.50 1.50 0.60 0.50 1.00
Carbopol13825 0.05 0.20 0.08 0.12 0.05 0.09
Carbopol9544 0.70 0.63 0.68 0.60 0.70 0.61
NaOH (40% Soln) 0.80 1.00 0.80 0.85 0.75 0.90
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WO 99/38486 PCT/ITS98/21521
32
Hydrofol Acid 0.08 O.p9 0.10 0.12 0.13 0.10
Myrj 59' 0.09 0.10 0.09 0.12 0.10 0.10
Stearyl Alcohol 0.50 0.38 0.40 0.32 0.48 0.48
Cetyl Alcohol 1.20 0.85 1.00 0.72 0.72 0.72
Propyl Paraben 0.29 0.25 0.15 0.15 0.18 0.00
Finsolv TN8 0.00 1.2 0.00 0.5 0.5 0.00
SEFA Cottonate9 0.2 1.50 1.50 0.75 1.80 1.50
Isohexadecane 1.33 0.2 0.75 2.25 1.00 1.00
Methyl Paraben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.00
Phenoxytol 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.00
EDTA 0:10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10
DC Q2-1403~~ 2.00 1.60 1.60 1.80 1.50 3.00
NaCI 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.00
IsononylIsononanoate0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 1.50
Glydant Plus 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.10
Examples XI to XII
Inrtredients Ex XI Ex XII
(%w/w) (%w/w)
Sepigel 305 1.0 1.0
Xanthan Gum 1400 CP1 0.28 0.28
Glycerine 7.0 7.0
Urea 2.0 2.0
PEG-30 2.4 2.4
Glyceryl Monosterate 1.5 1.5
Propylene Glycol Monosterate1.5 1.5
Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0
Polyglyceryl-2-Sesquilsosterate0.8 O,g
Isohexadecane 12.0 4.0
SEFA Cottonate9 2.0 2.0
Lanolin Oil 4,0 g.0
DC 345 1.0 1.0
Dimethicone 350 1.0 1.0
Kronos (TiOz)6 - 0.5
~3-carotene 0.0015 0.0015
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1 0.1
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33
Methylparaben 0.3. 0.3
Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4
Propylparaben 0.1 0.1
Distilled water qs 100 qs 100
1. Supplied by ICI Surfactants, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough,
Cleveland, TS6 8JE
2. Supplied by Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1
4EX
3. A C1-C30 monoester or polyester of sugars and one or more carboxylic acid
moieties as described herein, preferably a sucrose polyester in which the
degree of
esterification is 7-8, and in which the fatty acid moieties are C 18 mono-
and/or di-
unsaturated and behenic, in a molar ratio of unsaturates:behenic of 1:7 to
3:5,
more preferably the octaester of sucrose in which there are about 7 behenic
fatty
acid moieties and about 1 oleic acid moiety in the molecule, e.g. sucrose
ester of
cottonseed oil fatty acids, e.g. SEFA Cottonate.
4. B.F. Goodrich, 9911 Brecksville Road, Brecksville, OH 44141, USA
5. B.F. Goodrich, 9911 Brecksville Road, Brecksville, OH 44141, USA
6. Supplied by Kronos, 4 Place Ville Marie # 500, Montreal, Quebec, Canada
7. PEG 100 Stearate supplied by ICI, PO Box 90, Wilton Centre, Middlesborough,
Cleveland, TS6 8JE.
8. C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate Ester supplied by Finetex Inc., PO Box 216, Elmwood
Park, New Jersey 07407, USA.
9. Supplied by Procter & Gamble, Winton Hill Technical Centre, Cincinnati, OH,
USA.
10. Supplied by Dow Corning, Kings Court, 185 Kinds Rd, Reading, Berks, RG1
4EX.
The compositions as set out in examples I to X are made as follows:
- A first premix of thickening agents, methyl paraben when present,
glycerine/Ti02
premix, Arlatone 2121 when present, and other water soluble ingredients apart
from urea,
is prepared by admixing in water and heating to about 80°C. A second
premix of the oil
phase ingredients including the emulsifiers, oil-soluble preservatives, other
than silicone
gum is prepared by mixing and heating and is added to the aqueous premix.
The silicone gum is added to the resulting mixture which is then cooled to
about 60°C.
The NaOH solution, Glydant Plus when present, EDTA, silicone gum, and then
urea
solution ( 1 g dissolved in 1 ml of water) are then added to the resulting oil-
in-water
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- WO 99/38486 PCT/US98121521
34
emulsion and the mixture is cooled before adding minor ingredients. The
composition is
ready for packaging.
The compositions as set out in examples XI and XII are made as follows:
A first premix of thickening agents (except Sepigel when present), methyl
paraben,
glycerine/Ti02 premix, Arlatone 2121 when present, and other water soluble
ingredients
apart from urea, is prepared by admixing in water and heating to about
80°C. A second
premix of the oil phase ingredients including the emulsifiers, oil-soluble
preservatives,
other than silicone gum and cyclomethicone is prepared by mixing and heating
and is
added to the aqueous premix and the mixture homogenised.
The silicone gum is added to the resulting mixture which is then cooled to
about 60°C.
When present, Sepigel and cyclomethicone are added between 60° and
55°C to the
resulting oil-in-water emulsion. Afterwards, EDTA and urea solution ( 1 g
dissolved in 1 ml
of water) are added and the mixture is neutralised with NaOH when necessary.
The
mixture is further cooled under stirring before adding minor ingredients. The
composition is ready for packaging.
The compositions display improved skin feel, skin smoothness, skin softness
and skin
care characteristics together with reduced greasiness and excellent rub-in and
fast
absorption characteristics.
