Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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Agents and Method for Treating Keratinous Fibers
This invention relates to a composition in the form of a micro-
emulsion for treating keratin fibers and to a process for treating keratin
fibers using this composition.
Nowadays, human hair is treated in many different ways with hair
s care preparations. Such treatments include, for example, the cleaning of
hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration of hair with rinses and
conditioners and the bleaching, coloring and shaping of hair with bleaching,
coloring and tinting formulations, wave formulations and styling
preparations. Apart from the actual purpose served by these products,
efforts are increasingly being made to achieve preventive protection
against damage with these preparations. Growing significance attaches in
this regard to protection against the effects of excessive exposure to light
which can occur, in particular, in the mountains and at sea through the UV
component of solar radiation.
The use of compositions containing inorganic pigments or organic
UV filters, for example based on benzophenone or cinnamic acid, for
protecting skin and hair against solar radiation is known. Unfortunately,
one of the disadvantages of such compositions, particularly where they are
formulated as rinse-off products, lies in the poor substantivity of the active
ingredients on the hair. Accordingly, the protective effect obtained with
these products is generally unsatisfactory or not entirely satisfactory.
An attempt to overcome this disadvantage consisted in the develop-
ment of new derivatives of the known filters which contain a cationic group
in addition to the UV-absorbing component. The substantivity of these
substances on the hair is thus distinctly improved. Unfortunately, the
uneven distribution of the adsorbed filters on the hair does present
problems. Although these problems can be solved by adding fatty or oil
components to the corresponding compositions, problems can then arise in
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regard to the formulation of storage-stable products and, in the particular
case of products formulated as sprays, acceptable spraying behavior can
only be achieved by the simultaneous addition of organic solvents.
However, the use of such solvents is not only undesirable for ecological
reasons, it can also have an adverse effect on the hair-care properties of
the compositions.
It has now been found that the problems mentioned above can be
overcome by using special UV-absorbing cationic substances in
compositions formulated as special microemulsions, so-called PIT
emulsions.
It was known to the expert that the introduction of ionic components
into PIT emulsions normally leads to a considerable increase in the phase
inversion temperature. Accordingly, the expert will generally refrain from
preparing such products either for substance-specific reasons or for
economic reasons. This applies in particular to the quaternary ammonium
compounds known as conditioners which, in the quantities normally used,
often produce an increase of 20 to 30°C in the phase inversion
temperature
to beyond the critical limit of 100°C.
Accordingly, it is extremely surprising that the UV-absorbing
substances containing cationic groups used in accordance with the
invention either do not measurably influence the phase inversion
temperature at all or increase it only slightly, i.e. generally well below
15°C.
Accordingly, the present invention relates to compositions for
treating keratin fibers which contain at least 6% by weight of oil
components and at least one nonionic emulsifier and which are present as
a microemulsion with a mean droplet diameter of less than 400 nanometers
and which, in addition, contain a UV-absorbing component A
corresponding to general formula (I):
U - Q (I)
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in which U is a UV-absorbing group and Q is a group which contains at
least one quaternary ammonium function.
In the context of the invention, keratin fibers are understood to be
pelts, wool, feathers and, in particular, human hair.
The compositions according to the invention contain an oil
component as a first compulsory constituent. Suitable oil components are,
in principle, any water-insoluble oils and fatty compounds and mixtures
thereof with solid paraffins and waxes. In the context of the invention,
water-insoluble substances are understood to be substances with a
solubility in water at 20°C of less than 0.1 % by weight. The melting
point of
the individual oil or fatty components should be below the phase inversion
temperature of the system and, more particularly, below about 40°C.
According to the invention, oil and fatty components which are liquid at
room temperature, i.e. below 25°C, can be particularly preferred. Where
several oil and fatty components and optionally solid paraffins and waxes
are used, however, it is generally sufficient if the mixture of the oil and
fatty
components and optionally paraffins and waxes satisfy these conditions.
A preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils. Examples of
such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil,
jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid
components of coconut oil.
However, other triglyceride oils, such as the liquid components of
bovine tallow, and synthetic triglyceride oils are also suitable.
Another group of compounds suitable for use as oil components in
accordance with the invention are liquid paraffin oils and synthetic
hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers containing a total of 12 to 36 carbon
atoms and, more particularly, 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as for example
di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-
dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, n-octyl-n-decyl ether, n-decyl-n-
undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether and
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ditert.butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert.butyl-n-
octyl
ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylphenyl-n-octyl ether. The com-
pounds 1,3-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane and di-n-octyl ether obtainable as
commercial products (Cetiol~ S and Cetiol~ OE, respectively) can be
preferred.
Other oil components suitable for use in accordance with the
invention are fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters. The monoesters of fatty
acids with alcohols containing 3 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. This
group of substances are products of the esterification of fatty acids
containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms such as, for example, caproic acid,
caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic
acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic
acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic
acid,
elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid
and the technical mixtures thereof obtained, for example, in the pressure
hydrolysis of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from
Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids with
alcohols such as, for example isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, caprylic
alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl
alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl
alcohol,
isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol,
linolyl
alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl
alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and the
technical mixtures thereof obtained, for example, in the high-pressure
hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or
aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis and as monomer fraction in the
dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, iso-
propyl myristate, isononanoic acid C,6_~8 alkyl ester (Cetiol~ SN), stearic
acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol~ 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate,
cocofatty alcohol caprate/caprylate and n-butyl stearate are particularly
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preferred.
Finally, other oil components suitable for use in accordance with the
invention are dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-
ethylhexyl)-adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinate and diisotridecyl acetate,
and diol esters, such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotri-
decanoate, propylene glycol di-(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene diisostearate,
propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate and neopentyl
glycol dicaprylate.
The total quantity of oil and fatty components in the compositions
according to the invention is normally from 6 to 45% by weight, based on
the composition as a whole. According to the invention, quantities of 10 to
35% by weight are preferred.
The compositions according to the invention contain a nonionic
emulsifier as a secondary compulsory constituent.
Suitable nonionic emulsifiers are, for example,
- products of the addition of 4 to 30 moles ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5
moles propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22
carbon atoms, onto fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and
onto alkylphenols containing 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
- 02_22 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30
moles ethylene oxide onto polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more
particularly glycerol,
- ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products with methyl glucoside
fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
- C$_22 alkyl monoglycosides and oligoglycosides and ethoxylated
analogs thereof, degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5 and more
particularly 1.2 to 1.4 and glucose as the sugar component being
preferred,
- products of the addition of 5 to 60 moles ethylene oxide onto castor oil
and hydrogenated castor oil and
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- partial esters of polyols containing 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated
fatty acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
The compositions according to the invention contain the nonionic
emulsifiers in quantities of preferably 4 to 15% by weight and more
preferably 6 to 10% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.
The compositions according to the invention preferably contain at
least one nonionic emulsifier with an HLB value of 8 to 18 as defined in
Rompp - Lexikon Chemie (eds. J. Falbe, M.Regitz), 10th Edition, Georg
Thieme Verlag, StuttgartJNew York (1997), page 1764. According to the
invention, nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10 to 15 can be
particularly preferred.
Among the nonionic emulsifiers mentioned, ethoxylated fatty
alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms and 4 to 30 EO units are
preferred.
Another compulsory component of the compositions according to the
invention are special UV-absorbing components A which are also referred
to in short hereinafter as UV absorbers A. These UV absorbers A have the
general structure U - Q.
The structural moiety U stands for a UV absorbing group. In
principle, this group may be derived from the known UV filters used in
cosmetics in which a group, generally a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is
replaced by a group Q with a quaternary amino function. The following are
examples of compounds from which the structural moiety U may be
derived:
- substituted benzophenones, such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone,
2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophe-
none, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-meth-
oxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxy-
benzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate,
- p-aminobenzoic acid ester,
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- Biphenyl acrylates, such as ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-Biphenyl acrylate and 2'-
ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-Biphenyl acrylate,
- cinnamic acid esters, such as octyl methoxycinnamate,
- salicylic acid esters, such as octyl salicylate,
- benzimidazoles and
- o-aminobenzoic acid esters.
According to the invention, structural moieties U derived from
cinnamic acid amide or from N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are
preferred.
In principle, the structural moieties U may be selected so that the
absorption maximum of the UV absorber A can lie both in the UVA (315
400 nm) and in the UVB (280-315 nm) range or in the UVC (<280 nm)
range. UV absorbers A with an absorption maximum in the UVB range,
more particularly in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are
particularly preferred.
In addition, the structural moiety U - again in dependence on the
structural moiety Q - is preferably selected so that the molar extinction
coefficient of the UV absorber A at the absorption maximum is above
15,000 and more particularly above 20,000.
The structural moiety Q must contain a quaternary ammonium
group. In principle, this quaternary ammonium group may be directly
attached to the structural moiety U, so that the structural moiety U
represents one of the four substituents of the positively charged nitrogen
atom. However, one of the four substituents at the positively charged
nitrogen atom is preferably a group, more particularly an alkylene group
containing 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which acts as a link between the structural
moiety U and the positively charged nitrogen atom.
In one preferred embodiment of the invention, Q has the general
structure -(CH2)X N+R'R2R3 X-, in which x is an integer of 1 to 4, R' and R2
independently of one another represent C~_4 alkyl groups, R3 is a C~_22 alkyl
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WO 99/44564 8 PCT/EP99/01109
group or a benzyl group and X- is a physiologically compatible anion. In
the general structure indicated above, x is preferably the number 3, R' and
R2 each represent a methyl group and R3 is either a methyl group or a
saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing
8 to 22 and more particularly 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
Physiologically compatible anions are, for example, inorganic
anions, such as halides, more particularly chloride, bromide and fluoride,
sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions, such as lactate,
citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.
Two particularly preferred UV absorbers A are the compounds
cinnamic acid amidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and dodecyl
dimethyl aminobenzamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium tosylate obtainable
as commercial products (Incroquat~UV-283 and Escalol~ HP 610,
respectively).
The UV absorbers A are present in the compositions according to
the invention in quantities of normally 0.5 to 5% by weight and preferably
1.0 to 2.5% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.
Water is another compulsory component of the compositions
according to the invention.
Finally, the compositions according to the invention must be present
in the form of a microemulsion with a mean droplet diameter of less than
400 nm and, more particularly, less than 200 nm.
Microemulsions in the context of the present invention are
understood to be so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are, in
principle, systems containing the three components water, oil and nonionic
emulsifier which are present as an oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion at room
temperature. When these systems are heated, microemulsions are formed
in a certain temperature range (normally referred to as the phase inversion
temperature or "PIT") and, on continued heating, change into water-in-oil
(w/o) emulsions. In the event of subsequent cooling, o/w emulsions are
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reformed, but are present even at room temperature as microemulsions
with a mean particle diameter of less than 400 nm and, more particularly,
with a particle diameter of about 100 to 300 nm. Particulars of these very
stable low-viscosity systems, which are now generally known as "PIT
emulsions", can be found in a number of publications, of which the articles
in Angew. Chem. 97, 655-669 (1985) and Adv. Colloid Interface Sci. 58,
119-149 (1995) are representative.
According to the invention, microemulsions or PIT emulsions with a
mean particle diameter of around 200 nm can be preferred.
The microemulsions according to the invention may be prepared, for
example, by initially determining the phase inversion temperature of the
system by heating a sample of the conventionally prepared emulsion and
determining the temperature at which there is a drastic reduction in
conductivity using a conductimeter. The reduction in the specific con-
ductivity of the o/w emulsion initially present generally decreases from
originally more than 1 mS/cm to values below 0.1 mS/cm over a temper-
ature range of 2 to 8°C. This temperature range thus corresponds to the
phase inversion temperature range. Accordingly, once the phase inversion
temperature is known, the emulsion of oil component, nonionic emulsifier,
at least parts of the water and optionally other components initially
prepared in the usual way may be heated to a temperature within or above
the phase inversion temperature range and subsequently cooled and other
components, if any, and the remaining water may be added. Alternatively,
the microemuision may also be directly prepared at a temperature lying
within or above the phase inversion temperature range. The microemul-
sion thus prepared is then cooled to a temperature below the phase inver-
sion temperature range, normally room temperature.
Besides the compulsory components, the compositions according to
the invention may contain other components, depending upon the
particular application envisaged, of which the influence on the phase
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inversion temperature can have a crucial bearing on the usability of
individual compound.
In one preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the
invention are characterized in that, in addition to the oil components which
also have a hair-care effect in many cases, they contain at least one other
hair-care component. This other hair-care component is generally selected
from nonionic compounds. In principle, however, this does not preclude
the use of ionic hair-care compounds, particularly if they are employed in
small quantities. In this case, however, the influence of these ionic
compounds on the phase inversion temperature should be determined. In
general, only those ionic components whose influence on the phase
inversion temperature does not pose any additional problems in the
production process will generally be used.
Active substances with a hair-care effect are known to the expert.
Examples include
~ Fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols used
may be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched. Fatty alcohols
suitable for use in accordance with the invention are, for example,
decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodeca-
dienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, ricinolyl alcohol, stearyl
alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol,
arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol,
linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and their Guerbet alcohols, this list
being intended to be purely exemplary without any limiting character.
However, the fatty alcohols emanate from preferably natural fatty acids
and are normally produced from the esters of the fatty acids by
reduction. Also suitable for use in accordance with the invention are
fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reduction of naturally occurring
triglycerides, such as bovine tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil,
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cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid
esters formed from transesterification products thereof with
corresponding alcohols and which therefore represent a mixture of
different fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohols are preferably used in
quantities of 0.3 to 3% by weight, based on the preparation as a whole.
~ Animal and preferably vegetable protein hydrolyzates such as, in
particular, elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soya protein, silk
protein, oat protein, pea protein, almond protein and wheat protein
hydrolyzates, condensation products thereof with fatty acids and
quaternized protein hydrolyzates.
~ Vitamins and vitamin precursors, such as tocopherols, vitamin A,
nicotinic acid and nicotinic acid amide, other vitamins of the B complex,
vitamin F and in particular biotin. Other preferred representatives of this
group of hair-care substances are panthenol, derivatives thereof, more
particularly esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized
panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol
triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the
cationic panthenol derivative disclosed in WO 92/13829. Within this
group, panthenol is preferred.
~ Mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as, for example, glucose,
galactose, fructose, mannose, fruit sugar and lactose.
~ Plant extracts which are normally prepared by extracting the entire
plant, but in some cases also exclusively from blossoms and/or leaves
of the plant. So far as the plant extracts suitable for use in accordance
with the invention are concerned, particular reference is made to the
extracts listed in the Table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd Edition of
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the Leitfaden zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel,
published by the Industrieverband Korperpflege- and Waschmittel
e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt. According to the invention, particular preference
is attributed above all to the extracts of oak bark, stinging nettle,
hamamelis, hops, camomile, burdock root, horse willow, hawthorn, lime
blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood,
juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi, melon, orange,
grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's smock, creeping
thyme, yarrow, thyme, balm, restharrow, coltsfoot, hibiscus, meristem,
ginseng and ginger root. The extracts of almond, aloe vera, coconut,
mango, apricot, lemon, wheat, kiwi and melon are particularly preferred.
The compositions according to the invention may also contain mixtures
of several, more particularly two, different plant extracts. Water,
alcohols and mixtures thereof may be used as extractants for preparing
the plant extracts mentioned. Among the alcohols, lower alcohols, such
as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols, such as
ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, are particularly
preferred both as sole extractant and in admixture with water. Plant
extracts based on water/propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10:1 have
proved to be particularly suitable. According to the invention, the plant
extracts may be used both in pure form and in dilute form. If they are
used in dilute form, they normally contain around 2 to 80% by weight of
active substance and - as solvent - the extractant or extractant mixture
used in their production.
~ Honey extracts which are obtained similarly to the plant extracts and
which normally contain 1 to 10% by weight and more particularly 3 to
5% by weight of active substance. In this case, too, water/propylene
glycol mixtures can be preferred extractants.
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~ Ceramides.
~ Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and kephalins.
~ Silicone oils, more particularly dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as,
for example, dimethyl polysiloxane and methylphenyl polysiloxane and
alkoxylated and quaternized analogs thereof. Examples of such
silicones are the products marketed by Dow Corning under the names
of DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the Dow Corning products DC
344 and DC 345, Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized
trimethyl silyl amodimethicone), Dow Corning~ 929 Emulsion
(containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as
Amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-
55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil~-Quat 3270 and 3272
(manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethyl siloxanes,
Quaternium-80).
~ Alkylamidoamines which are normally obtained by amidation of natural
or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines.
Typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-
ethylhexyanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic
acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic
acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid. IInClelc arm linnlanir ~~~~I
elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic
acid and the technical mixtures thereof obtained, for example, in the
pressure hydrolysis of natural and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes
from Roelen's oxosynthesis or in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty
acids. Normally, the fatty acid cuts obtainable from coconut oil or palm
oil are particularly preferred; in general, the use of stearic acid is
particularly preferred. According to the invention, a particularly suitable
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compound from this group of substances is the stearamidopropyl
dimethyl amine commercially obtainable as Tegoamid~ S 18.
~ Esterquats, more particularly quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine
ester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanol
alkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-
dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines.
~ Cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, more
particularly ammonium halides, such as alkyl trimethyl ammonium
chlorides, dialkyl dimethyl ammonium chlorides and trialkyl methyl
ammonium chlorides, for example cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride,
stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium
chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl
ammonium chloride, tricetyl methyl ammonium chloride, behenyl tri-
methyl ammonium methosulfate and the imidazolinium compounds
known by the INCI names of Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.
~ Cationic polymers, more particularly those containing a quaternary
nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.
Preferred cationic polymers are, for example, the quaternized cellulose
derivatives commercially obtainable under the names of Celquat~ and
Polymer JR~ (more particularly the products Celquat~ H 100, Celquat~
L 200 and Polymer JR~ 400), polymeric dimethyl diallyl ammonium
salts and copolymers thereof with esters and amides of acrylic acid and
methacrylic acid which are commercially obtainable under the names of
Merquat~ 100 (poly(dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride)) and
Merquat~ 550 (dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride/acrylamide
copolymer), copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives
of dialkylaminoacrylate and methacrylate, such as for example diethyl
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sulfate-quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethyl aminoalkyl methacrylate
copolymers (for example the commercial products Gafquat~ 734 and
Gafquat~ 755), vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazolinium methochloride
copolymers commercially obtainable under the name of Luviquat~,
quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and the polymers with quaternary nitrogen
atoms in the main polymer chain known by the names of
Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and
Polyquaternium 27.
Particulars of other compounds can be found in the reference books
known to the expert, for example K. Schrader, Grundlagen and
Rezepturen der Kosmetika 2nd Edition, Huthig Buch Verlag,
Heidelberg, 1989.
The additional hair-components are present in the compositions
according to the invention in quantities of preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight
and more preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the active substance of
the hair-care component and the composition as a whole.
In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the
invention contain another UV filter in addition to the UV absorber A. The
other UV filter may be selected from any of the standard UV filters suitable
for use in cosmetics. According to the invention, oil-soluble UV filters and
substances with an absorption maximum in the UVB range can be
preferred. So far as the other UV fitters generally used are concerned,
reference is made to the foregoing observations. Preferred other UV filters
are 2-ethylhexyl-3,3'-diphenyl-2-cyanoacrylate (OCTOCRYLENE), 2-
ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (OCTYLMETHOXYCINNAMATE), 2-
hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BENZOPHENONE-3), isoamyl-4-
methoxycinnamate (ISOAMYL P-METHOXYCINNAMATE) and 2-phenyl
benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (PHENYL BENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC
ACID). These other UV filters are present in the compositions according to
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the invention in a quantity of preferably 0.1 to 7% by weight and more
preferably 0.2 to 5% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.
In a first embodiment, the compositions according to the invention
are formulated as a hair rinse or hair conditioner. Hair rinses are generally
formulated in such a way that the active substances are rinsed out with
water or with an at least predominantly water-containing preparation after
the required contact time. The contact time with the hair is generally short.
Hair conditioners contain the combination of active substances in a higher
concentration than hair rinses and are intended for the treatment of
seriously damaged hair. The contact time can be short, for example of the
same order as the contact time of hair rinses, although it may even be as
long as 20 minutes, depending on the degree of hair damage. The hair
conditioners according to the invention may be rinsed out with water or with
an at least predominantly water-containing preparation after that contact
time. However, they may also be left on the hair. These compositions may
advantageously be formulated as foam aerosols, but especially as sprays.
To this end, the compositions contain propellant gases. In this variant,
however, they are preferably formulated as pump sprays with air as the
propellant.
In other embodiments, the compositions according to the invention
may be, for example, cleaning compositions, such as shampoos, hair-
setting compositions, such as lacquers, sprays and gels, permanent
shaping formulations, such as permanent wave and fixing sets, color-
changing formulations, such as blonding preparations, oxidation colorants
and tints based on substantive dyes, hair lotions and hair tip fluids. The
viscosities of the preparations may thus be adjusted according to the
particular application envisaged. In addition, the invention also
encompasses products which, as separately packed preparations,
comprise on the one hand a composition according to the invention and in
addition one other preparation comprising, for example, oxidation dye
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precursors or oxidizing agents. These separately packed preparations are
then either mixed immediately before application to the hair or are
combined on the hair itself.
Accordingly, other typical ingredients of the compositions according
to the invention - always with the above-mentioned limitation in regard to
the phase transition temperature range, particularly in the case of ionic
compounds - may be the following:
- anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers such as, for
example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, polydimethyl
siloxanes, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl
maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic
anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-
crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium
chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-
butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate
copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate
copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl
caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers;
- anionic surfactants such as, in particular, alkyl sulfates, alkyl
polyglycolether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids containing 10 to 18
carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the
molecule and sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters containing 8 to
18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl
polyohydroxyethyl esters containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl
group and 1 to 6 hydroxyethyl groups;
- zwitterionic surfactants, more particularly the so-called betaines, such
as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example
cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-
dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl
dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-
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hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl
or acyl group and cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl
glycinate;
- ampholytic surfactants, such as N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acid,
N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-
N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-
alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids containing 8 to 18
carbon atoms in the alkyl group;
- defoamers, such as silicones;
- thickeners, such as agar agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum,
gelatin, pectin, hydroxyethyl cellulose and also polyacrylamides and
copolymers thereof;
- structurants, such as malefic acid;
- perfume oils, dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins;
- solubilizers, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and
diethylene glycol;
- dyes for coloring the composition;
- antidandruff agents, such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and
climbazol;
- other substances for adjusting the pH;
- active principles, such as allantoin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids and
bisabolol;
- other UV filters;
- consistency factors, such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl
ethers;
- fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax and
paraffins;
- swelling and penetration agents, such as glycerol, propylene glycol
monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas
and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates;
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- opacifiers, such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide
copolymers;
- pearlizers, such as ethylene glycol monostearate and distearate and
PEG-3-distearate;
- complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA, ~i-alanine diacetic acid and
phosphonic acids;
- substantive dyes;
- so-called primary and secondary intermediates as oxidation dye
precursors;
- reducing agents such as, for example, thioglycolic acid and derivatives
thereof, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and a-mercapto-
ethane sulfonic acid;
- oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and
sodium bromate;
- propellants, such as propane/butane mixtures, N20, dimethyl ether,
C02, N2 and air and
- antioxidants.
In principle, the pH of the compositions according to the invention
may be in the range from 2 to 11, the expert allowing for instabilities known
to him, for example of the parent compound panthenol in the alkaline
medium. However, the pH of the compositions according to the invention is
preferably in the range from 2 to 7, values in the range from 3 to 6 being
particularly preferred. This pH may be adjusted with virtually any acid
suitable for cosmetic purposes. Edible acids are normally used. Edible
acids are acids which are taken up as part of the normal food intake and
which have positive effects on the human organism. Edible acids are, for
example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid,
ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. According to the invention, citric acid and
lactic acid are particularly preferred.
The present invention also relates to a process for treating keratin
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fibers, more particularly human hair, in which the composition claimed in
any of claims 1 to 11 is applied to the fibers and is rinsed off again after a
contact time of about 1 second to about 30 minutes.
The following Examples are intended to illustrate the invention.
Application Examples
All quantities in the following Examples are parts by weight, unless
otherwise indicated.
1. UV protection lotion
(a) Cetiol~ SN' 20.0
(a) Cutina~ E 242 5.3
(a) Cutina~ GMS3 3.6
(a) Incroquat~ UV-2834 2.0
(a) Neo Heliopan~ BB5 1.0
(a) Perfume oil 1.0
(b) Panthenol 0.2
(b) Water, deionized to 100
' Isononanoic acid C~6_~8 alkyl ester (INCI name: Cetearyl Isononanoate)
(HENKEL)
Glycerol monostearate + 24 EO (INCI name: PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate)
Glycerol monostearate (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) (HENKEL)
4 Trimethyl cinnamic acid amidopropyl ammonium chloride (INCI name:
Cinnamidopropyl Trimethyl Ammonium Chloride) (CRODA)
2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI name: Benzophenone-3
(HAARMANN & REIMER)
Preparation: two separate mixtures containing the components (a)
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and (b) are heated to 85°C. The two mixtures are then mixed at
85°C and
cooled with continuous stirring.
2. Sprayable hair conditioner, leave-on
(a) Monomuls~ 60-35 C6 1.7
(a) Eumulgin~ B17 3.5
(a) Cetiol~ S8
7.2
(a) Cetiol~ OE9 7.2
(a) Dow Corning~ 344-EU-Fluid'3.6
(a) Escalol~ HP610" 1.5
(a) Perfume oil q.s.
(a) Preservative q.s.
(b) Glycerol
2.0
(b) Water
to 100
Fatty acid mono/diglyceride based on palm oil, hydrogenated (INCI
name: Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) (HENKEL)
' Cetyl stearyl alcohol + 12 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (HENKEL)
$ 1,3-Bis-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane (INCI name: Dioctylcyclohexane)
(HENKEL)
Di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: Dicaprylyl Ether) (HENKEL)
'° Octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane (INCI name: Cyclomethicone) (DOW
CORNING)
" Dodecyl dimethyl aminobenzamidopropyl dimethyl ammonium tosylate
(ISP)
Preparation: as Example 1
3. Repair lotion, light
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WO 99/44564 22 PCT/EP99/01109
(a) Emulgade~ SE'2 4.5
(a) Eumulgin~ B2'3 1.0
(a) Cetiol~ LC'4 5.0
(a) Cetiol~ OE 5.0
(a) Incroquat~ UV-283 1.0
(a) Preservative q,s.
(b) Gluadin~ W 40'5 0.5
(b) Water, demineralized to 100
'2 Mixture of partial glycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol ethoxylates
and
wax esters (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and)
Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate) (HENKEL)
13 Cetyl stearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (HENKEL)
'4 Caprylic acid/capric acid C~2_~$ fatty alcohol ester (INCI name: Coco-
Caprylate/Caprate) (HENKEL)
15 Wheat protein hydrolyzate (40% active substance in water; INCI name:
Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Sodium Benzoate (and)
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Propylparaben) (HENKEL)
Preparation: as Example 1
4. Repair lotion, sprayable
(a) Emulgade~ SE 4.5
(a) Eumulgin~ B2 1.0
(a) Cetiol~ LC 5.0
(a) Cetiol~ OE 5.0
(a) Escalol~ HP610 0.5
(a) Preservative
q.s,
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(b) Promois~Silk 1000 Q'6 0.5
(b) Panthenol 0.5
(b) Water, demineralized to 100
'6 Silk protein hydrolyzate (ca. 7% active substance in water; INCI name:
Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Silk) (INTERORGANA)
Preparation: as in Example 1
5. Hair protection lotion
(a) Emulgade~ SE 4.5
(a) Eumulgin~ B2 1.0
(a) Cetiol~S
5.0
(a) Cetiol~ OE 5.0
(a) Escalol~ HP610 1.25
(a) Preservative q.s.
(a) Neo Heliopan~ BB 0.75
(b) Water to 100
Preparation: as Example 1
6. Hair protection lotion, forte
(a) Emulgade~ SE 4.5
(a) Eumulgin~ B2 1.0
(a) Cetiol~ S 5.0
(a) Cetiol~ OE 5.0
(a) Escalol~ HP610 2.0
(a) Neo Heliopan~ BB 1.5
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WO 99/44564 24 PCT/EP99/01109
(a) Copherol~F 1300" 0.3
(b) Water to 100
" D-a-tocopherol (85% active substance; INCI name: Tocopherol)
(HENKEL CORP.)
Preparation as Example 1
7. Hair repair spray
(a) Emulgade~ SE 4.5
(a) Eumulgin~ B2 1.0
(a) Cetiol~S
5.0
(a) Cetiol~ OE 5.0
(a) Incroquat~UV-283 1.0
(a) Copherol~F 1300 0.2
(b) Panthenol 1.0
(b) Water
to 100
" D-a-tocopherol (85% active substance; INCI name: Tocopherol)
(HENKEL CORP.)
Preparation as Example 1
8. Sun protection balm
(a) Emulgade~ SE 1.6
(a) Eumulgin~ B2 0.4
(a) Cetiol~ OE 5.5
(a) Myritol~ 318'$ 0.5
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WO 99/44564 25 PCT/EP99/01109
(a) Escalol~ HP 610 1.0
(b) Neo Heliopan~ Hydro'9 1.5
(b) Hydagen~ B2° 1.0
(b) Carbopol~ 59842' (2% in water) 8.0
(b) NaOH, 1 % 4.0
(b) Water, demineralized to 100
'8 Fatty acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
(HENKEL)
'9 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenz-
imidazole Sulfonic Acid) (HAARMANN & REIMER)
2o D,L_a-bisabolol (85% active substance; INCI name: Bisabolol)
(HENKEL)
2' Polyacrylic acid (INCI name: Carbomer) (B.F. GOODRICH)
Preparation: as Example 1
9. Intensive sun protection lotion (leave-on)
(a) Emulgade~ SE g.0
(a) Eumulgin~ B2 2.0
(a) Almond oil 2.0
(a) Eutanol~ G22 2.0
(a) Cetiol~ 86823 9.0
(a) Incroquat~ UV-283 0.5
(a) Neo Heliopan~ BB 1.0
(a) Neo Heliopan~ AV24 1.0
(b) Glycerol, 86% 5.0
(b) Water, demineralized to 100
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WO 99/44564 26 PCT/EP99/01109
22 2_Octyl dodecyl alcohol (INCI name: OCTYLDODECANOL) (HENKEL)
2s Stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI name: Octyl Stearate) (HENKEL)
2a 2_Ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (INCI name: Octyl Methoxycinnam-
ate) (HAARMANN & REIMER)
Preparation: as Example 1
10. Sun protection emulsion, sprayable
(a) Emulgade~ SE 4.7
(a) Eumulgin~ B2 1.3
(a) Cetiol~ 868 6.0
(a) Cetiol~ Sn 6.0
(a) Escalol~ HP 610 2.0
(a) Neo Heliopan~ E 1000254.0
(a) Neo Heliopan~ BB 1.0
(a) Copherol~ F 1300 1.0
(b) Glycerol, 86% 5.0
(b) Water
to 100
25 3_Methylbutyl-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)-2-propenoate) (INCI name: Isoamyl-
p-methoxycinnamate) (HAARMANN & REIMER)
Preparation, as Example 1.
