Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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HAIR CARE COMPOSITIONS
10
The present invention relates to hair care compositions. In particular it
relates to
hair care compositions which are easy to spread through the hair and give
improved conditioning and shine with reduced feelings of tackiness and
greasiness.
Background to the Invention
Hair is often subjected to a wide variety of insults that can cause damage.
These
include shampooing, rinsing, drying, heating, combing, styling, perming,
colouring, exposure to the elements etc. Thus the hair is often in a dry,
rough,
lusterless or frizzy condition due to abrasion of the hair surface and removal
of
the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning and moisturizing
components.
A variety of approaches have been developed to alleviate these conditions.
These include the use of ultra mild shampoo compositions, the use of hair
~ conditioning shampoos which attempt to both cleanse and condition the hair
from
a single product and the use of hair conditioning formulations such as rinse-
off
and leave-on products.
Leave-on hair care formulations provide added advantages over the other
." .
approaches. For example, leave-on formulations are more cost effective and
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work for a longer duration because the conditioning ingredients remain on the
hair. They are more convenient because the consumer can use the product at
any time and does not have to wait to rinse the product. Also, the product may
be applied to the parts of the hair most in need of the conditioning benefits.
.
Commonly, the conditioning benefit is provided through the use of hair
conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, silicone
conditioning agents, hydrocarbon and other organic oils and solid aliphatics
such
as fatty alcohols. These conditioning agents are well known in the art. See,
for
example, WO-A-97/35542, WO-A-97/35545, WO-A-97/35546, all of which
describe the use of conditioning agents in shampoo compositions.
Ideally these conditioning agents are deposited on the hair fibres and cause
the
hair to feel smooth and appear shiny. Preferably, the compositions should be
easy to work through the hair to ensure that the agents are deposited fairly
evenly along the hair shaft. However, compositions, especially leave-on
compositions where there is no rinsing step, are often difficult to spread and
can
deposit too much conditioning agent in an uneven manner. t ms causes me nair
to develop a dirty, coated feel and leaves the hair limp and without body.
This is
particularly noticeable when the compositions are used repeatedly and when the
hair is not washed daily. It is therefore desirable to formulate compositions
comprising as little conditioning agent as possible to achieve the desired
benefits
while ensuring that the agent is deposited as evenly as possible along the
hair
shaft.
It has recently been suggested that polysiloxane resins could be used as hair
conditioning agents. For example, GB-A-2,297,757, incorporated by reference
herein, describes low viscosity organofunctionalised siloxysilicates and gives
examples of their use in a hair care compositions. However, this reference
does
not address the problem of providing hair care compositions that give shine
and
conditioning benefits and are easy to work through the hair but do not cause
the
hair to feel excessively tacky or greasy.
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Surprisingly, it has now been found that hair care compositions that are easy
to
disperse and deliver good conditioning and shine benefits with reduced
tackiness
are provided by combining polysiloxane resin, wherein at least one substituent
group of the resin possesses delocalised electrons, with a viscosity modifier.
Summary of the Invention
According to the present invention there is provided a leave-on hair care
composition comprising:
(a) polysiloxane resin, wherein at least one substituent group of
the resin possesses delocalised electrons; and
{b) viscosity modifier.
The compositions of the present invention are easy to spread through the hair
and provide good conditioning and shine benefits with reduced feelings of
tackiness and greasiness.
All concentrations and ratios herein are by weight of the hair care
composition,
unless otherwise specified.
All averages herein are weight averages unless otherwise specified.
Detailed Description of the Invention
The hair care compositions of the present invention comprise two main
elements,
' a polysiloxane resin, wherein at least one substituent group of the resin
possesses delocalised electrons, and viscosity modifiers. These elements will
be
described in more detail below.
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As used herein the terms "tacky" and "tackiness" means the adhesive feeling of
the hair after the application of some hair care compositions.
As used herein the term "leave-on" means a hair care composition that is
intended to be used without a rinsing step. Therefore, leave-on compositions
will
generally be left on the hair until the consumer next washes their hair as
part of
their cleansing regimen. Leave-on will generally comprise less than about 5%
of
anionic surfactant and will generally comprise less than 5% of non-ionic
surfactant.
Pol~siloxane Resins
An essential feature of the compositions of the present invention is that they
comprise polysiloxane resin, wherein at least one substituent group of the
resin
possesses delocalised electrons. The hair care compositions herein will
generally
comprise from about 0.001 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0.005% to
about 5%, more preferably from about 0.01 % to about 2%, even more preferably
from about 0.1 % to about 1 %, by weight, of polysiloxane resin.
Polysiloxane resins are highly crosslinked polymeric siioxane systems. The
crosslinking is introduced through the incorporation of trifunctional and
tetrafunctional silanes with monofunctional or difunctional, or both, silanes
during
manufacture of the silicone resin. As is well understood in the art, the
degree of
crosslinking that is required in order to result in a silicone resin will vary
according
to the specific silane units incorporated into the silicone resin. In general,
silicone materials which have a sufficient level of trifunctional and
tetrafunctional
siloxane monomer units (and hence, a sufficient level of crosslinking) such
that
they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered to be silicone resins.
The
ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level of
crosslinking in a
particular silicone material. Silicone materials which have at least about 1.1
oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins herein.
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Preferably, the ratio of oxygenailicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1Ø
Silanes
used in the manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl, dimethyl,
trimethyl, monophenyl, Biphenyl, methylphenyl, ethylphenyl, propylphenyl,
monovinyl, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and tetrachlorosilane.
5
The polysiloxane resin for use herein must have at least one substituent group
possessing delocalised electrons. This substituent can be selected from alkyl,
aryl, alkoxy, alkaryl, arylalkyl arylalkoxy, alkaryloxy, and combinations
thereof.
Preferred are aryl, arylalkyl and alkaryl substituents. More preferred are
alkaryl
and arylalkyl substituents. Even more preferred are alkaryl substituents,
particularly 2-phenyl propyl. Whereas at least one substituent must have
delocalised electrons, the resins herein will also generally have other
substituents without delocalised electrons. Such other substituents can
include
hydrogen, hydroxyl, alkyl, alkoxy, amino functionalities and mixtures thereof.
Preferred are alkyl substituents, especially methyl substituents. Therefore,
particularly preferred for use herein is dimethyl (2-phenylpropyl) silyl
ester.
As used herein the term "aryl" means a functionality containing one or more
homocyclic or heterocyclic rings. The aryl functionalities herein can be
unsubstituted or substituted and generally contain from 3 to 16 carbon atoms.
Preferred aryl groups include, but are not limited to, phenyl, naphthyl,
cyclopentadienyl, anthracyl, pyrene, pyridine, pyrimidine
As used herein the term "alkyl" means a saturated or unsaturated, substituted
or
unsubstituted, straight or branched-chain, hydrocarbon having from 1 to 10
carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The term "alkyl" therefore
includes alkenyls having from 2 to 8, preferably 2 to 4, carbons and alkynyls
having from 2 to 8, preferably 2 to 4, carbons. Preferred alkyl groups
include, but
' are not limited to, methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, and butyl. More
preferred are
methyl, ethyl and propyl.
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As used herein the term "alkaryl" means a substituent comprising an alkyl
moiety
and an aryl moiety wherein the alkyl moiety is bonded to the siloxane resin.
As used herein the term "arylalkyl" means a substituent comprising an aryl
moiety and an alkyl moiety wherein the aryl moiety is bonded to the siloxane
resin.
Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be
identified
according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in
the
art as "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described
according to presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the
silicone. Briefly, the symbol M denotes the monofunctional unit (CH3)3Si00.5;
D
denotes the difunctional unit (CH3)2Si0; T denotes the trifunctional unit
(CH3)Si01,5; and Q denotes the quadri- or tetra-functional unit Si02. Primes
of
the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T', and Q' denote siloxane units with one or
more
substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each
occurrence. Therefore, the pofysiloxane resins for use herein must have at
least
one M', D', T' or Q' functionality that possesses a substituent group with
delocalised electrons. Preferred substituents are as defined hereinabove. The
molar ratios of the various units, either in terms of subscripts to the
symbols
indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone (or an
average
thereof) or as specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular
weight
complete the description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system.
Preferred polysiloxane resins for use herein are M'Q resins, more preferred
are
M'gQ3, M'8Q4 and M',oQS, M',2Q6 resins and mixtures thereof. Preferred M'Q
resins are those which have at least one group containing delocalised
electrons
substituted..on each M' functionality. More preferred are resins where the
other
substituent groups are alkyl, especially methyl.
." .
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The polysiloxane resins for use herein will preferably have a viscosity of
less than
about 5000 mm2s-', more preferably less than about 2000 mm2s-', even more
preferably less than about 1000 mm2s-', even more still preferably less than
about 600 mm2s-', at 25°C. The viscosity can be measured by means of a
Cannon-Fenske Routine Viscometer (ASTM D-445)
Background material on silicones including sections discussing silicone
fluids,
gums, and resins, as well as manufacture of silicones, can be found in
Encyclopaedia of Polymer Science and Engineering (Volume 15, Second Edition,
pp. 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989), incorporated herein by reference.
Background material on suitable polysiloxane resins including details of their
manufacture can be found in U.S. Pats. 5,539,137; 5,672,338; 5,686,547 and
5,684,112, all _~r which are incorporated herein by reference.
Viscosity Modifier
A second essential feature of the compositions of the present invention is
that
they comprise a viscosity modifier. Any viscosity modifier suitable for use in
hair
care compositions may be used herein. Generally, the viscosity modifier will
comprise from about 0.01 % to about 10%, preferably from about 0.05% to about
5%, more preferably from about 0.1 % to about 3%, by weight, of the total
composition. A non-limiting list of suitable viscosity modifiers can be found
in the
CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th edition,
edited by Wenninger and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997), herein incorporated by reference.
Suitable viscosity modifiers for use herein include shear sensitive viscosity
modifiers. ..As used herein "shear sensitive viscosity modifiers" means
viscosity
' modifiers that can form compositions whose viscosity decreases at low shear
rates. Shear rate (s'') can be defined as the ratio of the velocity (ms'') of
material
to its distance from a stationary object (m). Shear rates of less than about
250s~'
." .
can be thought of as "low shear rates". Any shear sensitive viscosity modifier
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suitable for use in hair care may be used herein However, preferred for use
herein are viscosity modifiers which form compositions whose viscosity
decreases at a shear rate of less than about 100s-', more preferably less than
about 50s-'. In addition, preferred shear sensitive viscosity modifiers are
those
which can form compositions whose viscosity decreases by more than about
30%, preferably more than about 50%, more preferably more than about 70%,
even more preferably more than about 80% at a shear rate of 50s-'.
Preferred viscosity modifiers for use herein are those which form compositions
whose viscosity is also sensitive to the electrolyte concentration in the
aqueous
phase, known hereafter as "salt sensitive viscosity modifiers". Background
material on the properties of salt sensitive viscosity modifiers can be found
in
American Chemical Society Symposium Series (1991 ), Vol. 462, pp101-120,
incorporated herein by reference. Any salt sensitive viscosity modifier
suitable for
use in hair care compositions may be used herein.
Examples of suitable viscosity modifiers include, but are not limited to,
synthetic
hectorites, carboxylic anionic polymerslcopolymers and carboxylic anionic
cross-
linked polymersl copolymers. Preferred for use herein are carboxylic anionic
cross-linked polymers and copolymers. More preferred are carboxylic anionic
cross-finked copolymers.
The synthetic hectorites useful herein are synthetic layered silicates such as
sodium-magnesium silicate. Examples of suitable synthetic hectorites include
those available from Laporte Plc., United Kingdom under the trade name
Laponite.
The carboxylic anionic copolymers useful herein can be hydrophobically-
modified
cross-linked copolymers of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylate, and have an
'
amphiphilic property. These carboxylic anionic copolymers are obtained by
copolymerising 1 ) a carboxylic acid monomer such as acrylic acid, methacrylic
acid, malefic acid, malefic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, crotonic
acid, or
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a-chloroacrylic acid, 2) a carboxylic ester having an alkyl chain of from 1 to
about
30 carbons, and preferably 3) a crosslinking agent of the following formula:
R' C Y' YZ Y' C R'
CHZ CHZ
wherein R1 is a hydrogen or an alkyl group having from about 1 to about 30
carbons; Y1, independently, is oxygen, CH20, COO, OCO,
/ \ -C-N-
or o RZ , wherein R2 is a hydrogen or an alkyl group having
from about 1 to about 30 carbons; and Y2 is selected from (CH2)m",
(CH2CH20)m", or (CH2CH2CH20)m" wherein m" is an integer of from 1 to
about 30.
Suitable carboxylic anionic copolymers herein are acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate
copolymers having the following formula:
GOORz ~ ~ OORz
CI H-CHz C-CHz CH - CHz
n ~ n'
Hz
Hz
Hz
n"
CH,
H- CHz ~ -CH2 ~ H - CHz -
LCOORz m R~ COORz
P
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wherein R2, independently, is a hydrogen or an alkyl of 1 to 30 carbons
wherein
at least one of R2 is a hydrogen, R~ is as defined above, n, n', m and m' are
integers in which n+n'+m+m' is from about 40 to about 100, n" is an integer of
5 from 1 to about 30, and P is defined so that the copolymer has a molecular
weight of about 5000 to about 3,000,000.
Neutralizing agents may be included to neutralize the carboxylic anionic
copolymers herein. ' Non-limiting examples of such neutralizing agents include
10 sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide,
monethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, diisopropanolamine,
aminomethylpropanol, tromethamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, and
mixtures there~'.
Non-limiting examples of suitable carboxylic anionic viscosity modifiers,
including
details of their manufacture, can be found in U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,940,351;
5,288,814; 5,349,030; 5,373,044 and 5,468,797, all of which are incorporated
herein by reference. Examples of carboxylic anionic viscosity modifiers
include
those available from B.F. Goodrich, Cleveland, OH, USA under the trade names
Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 981, Carbopol ETD-
2020, Carbopol ETD-2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10. Preferred are Carbopol ETD-
2020, Carbopol ETD-2050 and Carbopol Ultrez 10, especially Carbopol Ultrez
10.
Particularly preferred viscosity modifiers for use herein from the viewpoint
of
improving spreadability, reducing tack and improving shine are carboxylic
anionic
viscosity modifiers such as Carbopol Ultrez 10.
. ~\ v
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Optional Ingredients
The hair care compositions of the present invention can further comprise a
number of optional ingredients. Some non-limiting examples of these optional
ingredients are given below.
Silicone conditioninqagent
The compositions of the present invention may optionally include an additional
silicone conditioning component. The silicone conditioning component may
comprise volatile silicone, nonvolatile silicone, or mixtures thereof.
Typically, if
volatile silicones are present, it will be incidental to their use as a
solvent or
carrier for commercially available forms of nonvolatile silicone materials
ingredients, such as silicone gums and resins. Preferably the silicone is non-
volatile, however volatile silicones are not excluded from use herein.
As used herein, "nonvolatile" refers to silicone material with little or no
significant
vapour pressure under ambient conditions, as is understood by those in the
art.
Boiling point under one atmosphere (atm) will preferably be at least about
250°C,
more preferably at least about 275°C, most preferably at least about
300°C.
Vapour pressure is preferably about 0.2mm Hg at 25°C or less,
preferably about
0.1 mm Hg at 25°C or less.
References disclosing non-limiting examples of some suitable silicone hair
conditioning agents, and optional suspending agents for the silicone, are
described in WO-A-94/08557 (Brock et al.), U.S. Patent 5,756,436 (Royce et
al.),
U.S. Patent 5,104,646 (Bolich Jr. et al.), U.S. Patent 5,106,609 (Bolich Jr.
et al.)
and U.S. Reissue 34,584 (Grote et al.) British Patent 849,433, all of which
are
incorporated herein by reference.
Silicone fluid for use in the present compositions include silicone oils which
are
. ,. .
flowable silicone materials with a viscosity of less than 1,000,000 mm2s-',
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preferably between about 5 and 1,000,000 mm2s~', more preferably between
about 10 and about 600,000 mm2s-', more preferably between about 10 and
about 500,000 mm2s-', most preferably between 10 and 350,000 mm2s~' at
25°C.
The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass capillary viscometer as set
forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. Suitable
silicone oils include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyarylalkyl
siloxanes, polyalkaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers, and mixtures
thereof. Other insoluble, nonvolatile silicone fluids having conditioning
properties
can also be used.
Silicone oils for use in the composition include polyalkyl or polyaryl
siloxanes
which conform to following formula:
R R R
R-Si-O Si-O Si-R
R R R
x
where R is aliphatic, preferably alkyl or alkenyl, or aryl, R can be
substituted or
unsubstituted, and x is an integer from 1 to about 8,000. Suitable
unsubstituted
R groups include alkoxy, aryloxy, alkaryl, arylalkyl, alkamino, and ether-
substituted, hydroxyl-substituted, and halogen-substituted aliphatic and aryl
groups. Suitable R groups also include cationic amines and quaternary
ammonium groups.
The aliphatic or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain may have any
structure as long as the resulting silicones remain fluid at room temperature,
are
hydrophobic, are neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied
to
the hair, are compatible with the other components of the herein described
hair
care compositions, are chemically stable under normal use and storage
conditions, are insoluble in the compositions of the present invention and are
.
capable of conditioning the hair.
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The two R groups on the silicon atom of each monomeric silicone unit may
represent the same group or different groups. Preferably, the two R groups
represent the same group.
Preferred alkyl and alkenyl substituents are C1-C5 alkyls and alkenyls, more
preferably from C1-C4, most preferably from C1-C2. The aliphatic portions of
other alkyl-, alkenyl-, or alkynyl-containing groups (such as alkoxy, alkaryl,
and
alkamino) can be straight or branched chains and preferably have from one to
five carbon atoms, more preferably from one to four carbon atoms, even more
preferably from one to three carbon atoms, most preferably from one to two
carbon atoms. As discussed above, the R substituents hereof can also contain
amino functionalities, e.g. alkamino groups, which can be primary, secondary
or
tertiary amines or quaternary ammonium. These include mono-, di- and tri-
alkylamino and alkoxyamino groups wherein the aliphatic portion chain length
is
preferably as described above. The R substituents can also be substituted with
other groups, such as halogens (e.g. chloride, fluoride, and bromide),
halogenated aliphatic or aryl groups, and hydroxy (e.g. hydroxy substituted
aliphatic groups). Suitable halogenated R groups could include, for example,
tri-
halogenated (preferably fluoro) alkyl groups such as -R1-C(F)3, wherein R1 is
C1-C3 alkyl. Examples of such polysiloxanes include polymethyl -3,3,3
trifluoropropylsiloxane.
Suitable R groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and
phenylmethyl. The preferred silicones are polydimethyl siloxane,
polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane is
especially preferred. Other suitable R groups include methyl, methoxy, ethoxy,
propoxy, and aryloxy. The three R groups on the end caps of the silicone may
also represent the same or different groups.
The nonvolatile polyalkylsiloxane fluids that may be used include, for
example,
polydimethylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the '
" '
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General Electric Company in their Viscasil R and SF 96 series, and from Dow
Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.
The polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be used, also include, for example,
polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from
the
General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or from Dow Corning
as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
The polyether sifoxane copolymers that may be used include, for example, a
polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane (e.g., Dow Corning DC-1248)
although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may
also be used. For insoluble silicones the ethylene oxide and polypropylene
oxide
level must be sufficiently low to prevent solubility in water and the
composition
hereof.
Other suitable silicone fluids for use in the silicone conditioning agents are
insoluble silicone gums. These gums are polyorganosiloxane materials having a
viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes.
Silicone
gums are described in U.S. Patent 4,152,416; Noll and Walter, Chemistry and
Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968; and in General
Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76,
all of which are incorporated herein by reference. The silicone gums will
typically
have a mass molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between
about 200,000 and about 1,000,000, specific examples of which include
polydimethylsiloxane, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer,
poly{dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl siloxane)(methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and
mixtures thereof.
The silicone conditioning agent can also comprise a mixture of
polydimethylsiloxane gum (viscosity greater than about 1,000,000 centistokes)
and polydimethylsiloxane oil (viscosity from about 10 to about 100,000
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centistokes), wherein the ratio of gum to fluid is from about 30:70 to about
70:30,
preferably from about 40:60 to about 60:40.
The number average particle size of the optional silicone component can vary
5 widely without limitation and will depend on the formulation and/or the
desired
characteristics. Number average particle sizes preferred for use in the
present
invention will typically range from about 10 nanometres to about 100 microns,
more preferably from about 30 nanometres to about 20 microns.
10 Cationic Conditioning Agents
The compositions of the present invention can also comprise one or more
cationic polymer conditioning agents. The cationic polymer conditioning agents
will preferably be water soluble. Cationic polymers are typically at
concentrations
15 of from about 0.001 % to about 20%, more typically from about 0.005% to
about
10%, preferably from about 0.01 % to about 2%, by weight, of the total
composition.
By "water soluble" cationic polymer, what is meant is a polymer which is
sufficiently soluble in water to form a substantially clear solution to the
naked eye
at a concentration of 0.1 % in water (distilled or equivalent) at 25°C.
Preferably,
the polymer will be sufficiently soluble to form a substantially clear
solution at
0.5% concentration, more preferably at 1.0% concentration.
As used herein, the term "polymer" shall include materials whether made by
polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or
more types of monomers.
The cationic polymers hereof will generally have a weight average molecular
weight which is at least about 5,000, typically at least about 10,000, and is
less
than about 10 million. Preferably, the molecular weight is from about 100,000
to
about 2 million. The cationic polymers will generally have cationic
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16
nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium or cationic amino
moieties, and mixtures thereof.
The cationic charge density is preferably at least about 0.1 meq/g, more
preferably at least about 0.5 meq/g, even more preferably at least about 1.1
meq/g, most preferably at least about 1.2 meq/g. Generally, for practical
purposes, the cationic polymers will have a cationic charge density of less
than
about 7meq/g, preferably less than about 5meq/g, more preferably less than
about 3.5meq/g, even more preferably less than about 2.5meq/g. Cationic
charge density of the cationic polymer can be determined using the Kjeldahl
Method (United States Pharmacopoeia - Chemical tests - <461 > Nitrogen
Determination - method II). Those skilled in the art will recognise that the
charge
density of some amino-containing polymers may vary depending upon pH and
the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be within
the above limits at the pH of intended use.
Any anionic counterions can be utilized for the cationic polymers so long as
the
water solubility criteria is met. Suitable counterions include halides (e.g.,
CI, Br,
I, or F, preferably CI, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate. Others can also
be
used, as this list is not exclusive.
The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety will be present generally as a
substituent,
on a fraction of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning
polymers.
Thus, the cationic polymer can comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of
quaternary ammonium or cationic amine-substituted monomer units and other
non-cationic units referred to herein as spacer monomer units. Such polymers
are known in the art, and a variety can be found in the CTFA International
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 7th edition, edited by Wenninger
and McEwen, (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc.,
Washington, D.C., 1997).
,y v
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Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, copolymers of vinyl monomers
having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionalities with water
soluble
spacer monomers such as acryiamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl
acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, alkyl acrylate, alkyl
methacrylate,
vinyl caprolactone, and vinyl pyrrolidone. The alkyl and dialkyl substituted
monomers preferably have C1-C7 alkyl groups, more preferably C1-C3 alkyl
groups. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol
(made by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), malefic anhydride, propylene
glycol,
and ethylene glycol.
The cationic amines can be primary, secondary, or tertiary amines, depending
upon the particular species and the pH of the composition. In general,
secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred.
Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerised in the amine form, and
then optionally can be converted to ammonium by a quaternization reaction.
Amines can also be similarly quaternized subsequent to formation of the
polymer. For example, tertiary amine functionalities can be quaternized by
reaction with a salt of the formula R'X wherein R' is a short chain alkyl,
preferably
a C1-C7 alkyl, more preferably a C1-C3 alkyl, and X is an anion which forms a
water soluble salt with the quaternized ammonium.
Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for
example, vinyl compounds substituted with dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate,
dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate,
monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, trialkyl methacryloxyalkyl ammonium salt,
' trialkyl acryloxyalkyl ammonium salt, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts, and
vinyl
quaternary ammonium monomers having cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings
such as pyridinium, imidazolium, and quaternized pyrrolidone, e.g., alkyl
vinyl
imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl
portions
of these monomers are preferably lower alkyls such as the C1-C3"alkyls, more
. ,. .
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preferably C1 and C2 alkyls. Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers for use
herein include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate,
dialkylaminoalkyl acrylamide, and dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylamide, wherein
the
alkyl groups are preferably C1-C7 hydrocarbyls, more preferably C1-C3, alkyls.
The cationic polymers hereof can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived
from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or
compatible spacer monomers.
Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers
of
1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g., chloride
salt)
(referred to in the industry by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance
Association,
"CTFA", as Polyquaternium-16), such as those commercially available from
BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the LUVIQUAT tradename
(e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to in the industry by CTFA as
Polyquaternium-11 ) such as those commercially available from Gaf Corporation
(Wayne, NJ, USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N);
cationic dialfyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymers, including, for
example, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer and copolymers of
acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, referred to in the industry
(CTFA) as Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7, respectively; and mineral
acid salts of amino-alkyl esters of homo- and co-polymers of unsaturated
carboxylic acids having from 3 to 5 carbon atoms, as described in U.S. Patent
4,009,256, incorporated herein by reference.
Preferred cationic polymers for use herein are cationic polymers and
copolymers
of saccharides. The cationic polysaccharides useful in the present invention
include those polymers based on 5 or 6 carbon sugars and derivatives which
have been made water-soluble by, for example, derivatising them with ethylene
oxide. These polymers may be bonded via any of several arrangements, such
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19
as 1,4-a, 1,4-~, 1,3-a, 1,3-~ and 1,6 linkages. The monomers may be in
straight
chain or branched chain geometric arrangements.
Suitable non-limiting examples of cationic polysaccharides include those based
on the following: celluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, starches,
hydroxyalkylstarches, polymers based on arabinose monomers, polymers
derived from xylose, polymers derived from fucose, polymers derived from
fructose, polymers based on acid-containing sugars such as galacturonic acid
and gfucuronic acid, polymers based on amine sugars such as galactosamine
and glucosamine particularly acetylglucosamine, polymers based on 5 or 6
membered ring polyalcohols, polymers based on galactose, polymers based on
mannose monomers and polymers based on galactomannan copolymer known
as guar gum.
Preferred for providing shine and conditioning benefits to the hair with
reduced
tack and greasiness are cationic polymers based on celluloses and
acetylglucosamine derivatives, especially cationic polymers of cellulose
derivatives. Non-limiting examples of suitable cationic polymers are those
available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) as salts of hydroxyethyl
cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, referred to in
the
industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Background material on these polymers
and their manufacture, can be found in U.S. Pat. No. 3,472,840 (issued Oct. 14
1969 to Stone), herein incorporated by reference. Other types of cationic
cellulose include the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl
cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred
to
in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24, available from Amerchol Corp.
(Edison, NJ, USA) and polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl
cellulose reacted with diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, referred to in the
industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 4, available from National Starch
(Salisbury,
NC, USA).
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The cationic copolymers of saccharides useful in the present invention
encompass those containing the following saccharide monomers: glucose,
galactose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, fucose, fructose, glucosamine,
galactosamine, glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, and 5 or 6 membered ring
5 polyalcohols. Also included are hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl and
hydroxypropyl
derivatives of the above sugars. When saccharides are bonded to each other in
the copolymers, they may be bonded via any of several arrangements, such as
1,4-a, 1,4-(3, 1,3-a, 1,3-~i and 1,6 linkages. Any other monomers can be used
as
long as the resultant polymer is suitable for use in hair care. Non-limiting
10 examples of other monomers useful herein include dimethyldiallylammonium
chloride, dimethylaminoethylmethyl acrylate, diethyldiallylammonium chloride,
N,N-diallyl,N-N-dialkyl ammonium halides, and the like.
As discussed above, the cationic polymer hereof is water soluble. This does
not
15 mean, however, that it must be soluble in the composition. Preferably
however,
the cationic polymer is either soluble in the composition, or in a complex
coacervate phase in the composition formed by the cationic polymer and anionic
material. Complex coacervates of the cationic polymer can be formed with
anionic surfactants or with anionic polymers that can optionally be added to
the
20 compositions hereof (e.g., sodium polystyrene sulfonate).
Sensates
The hair care compositions of the present invention may also comprise a
sensate. As used herein the term "sensate" means a substance that, when
applied to the skin, causes a perceived sensation of a change in conditions,
for
example, but not limited to, heating, cooling, refreshing and the like.
Sensates are preferably utilized at levels of from about 0.001 % to about 10%,
more preferably from about 0.005% to about 5%, even more preferably from
about 0.01 % to about 1 %, by weight, of the total composition.
. . ,. .
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21
Any sensate suitable for use in hair care compositions may be used herein. A
non-limiting, exemplary list of suitable sensates can be found in GB-B-
1315626,
GB-B-1404596 and GB-B-1411785, all incorporated by reference herein.
Preferred sensates for use in the compositions herein are camphor, menthol, I
isopulegol, ethyl menthane carboxamide and trimethyl isopropyl butanamide.
C,-C~ Aliphatic Alcohols
The compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise C,-C6,
preferably CZ C3, more preferably C2, aliphatic alcohol. The aliphatic alcohol
will
generally comprise from about 1 % to about 75%, preferably from about 10% to
about 40%, more preferably from about 15% to about 30%, even more preferably
from about 18% to about 26%, by weight, of the total composition.
Polyethylene qlycol derivatives of qlycerides
Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides include any
polyethylene
glycol derivative of glycerides which are water-soluble and which are suitable
for
use in a hair care composition. Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of
glycerides for use herein include derivatives of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides
and
mixtures thereof.
One class of polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides suitable herein are
those which conform to the general formula (I):
0
RCOCH2CH(OH}CH2(OCH2CH2)nOH
wherein n, the degree of ethoxylation, is from about 4 to about 200,
preferably
from about 5 to about 150, more preferably from about 20 to about 120, and
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wherein R comprises an aliphatic radical having from about 5 to about 25
carbon
atoms, preferably from about 7 to about 20 carbon atoms.
Suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides can be polyethylene
glycol
derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil. For example, PEG-20 hydrogenated
castor oil, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil,
PEG-45 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-54
hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-55 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated
castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor
oil. Preferred for use in the compositions herein is PEG-60 hydrogenated
castor
oil.
Other suitable polyethylene glycol derivatives of glycerides can be
polyethylene
glycol derivatives of stearic acid. For example, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-40
stearate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-75 stearate, PEG-90 stearate, PEG-100
stearate, PEG-120 stearate, and PEG-150 stearate. Preferred for use in the
compositions herein is PEG-100 stearate.
Cationic Surfactant
Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the present invention, contain
amino or quaternary ammonium moieties. The cationic surfactant will
preferably,
though not necessarily, be insoluble in the compositions hereof. Cationic
surfactants among those useful herein are disclosed in the following
documents,
all incorporated by reference herein: M.C. Publishing Co., McCutcheon's,
Detergents & Emulsifiers, (North American edition 1979); Schwartz, et al.;
Surface Active Agents. Their Chemistry and Technology, New York: Interscience
Publishers, 1949; U.S. Patent 3,155,591, Hilfer, issued November 3, 1964; U.
S.
Patent 3,929,678, Laughlin et al., issued December 30, 1975; U. S. Patent
3,959,461, Bailey et al., issued May 25, 1976; and U. S. Patent 4,387,090,
Bolich, Jr., issued June 7, 1983.
. ,. .
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23
Among the quaternary ammonium-containing cationic surfactant materials useful
herein are those of the general formula:
3 +
R~~N ~R X_
Rz/ ~Ra
wherein R1-R4 are independently an aliphatic group of from about 1 to about 22
carbon atoms or an 'aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido,
hydroxyalkyl,
aryl or alkylaryl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is
a
salt-forming anion such as those selected from halogen, (e.g. chloride,
bromide),
acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate, phosphate nitrate, sulfate, and
alkylsulfate
radicals. The aliphatic groups may contain, in addition to carbon and hydrogen
atoms, ether linkages, and other groups such as amino groups. The longer chain
aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12 carbons, or higher, can be saturated
or
unsaturated. Especially preferred are mono-long chain (e.g., mono C12-C22,
preferably C12-Clg, more preferably Clg, aliphatic, preferably alkyl), di-
short
chain (e.g., C1-Cg alkyl, preferably C1-C2 alkyl) quaternary ammonium salts.
Salts of primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable
cationic
surfactant materials. The alkyl.groups of such amines preferably have from
about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and may be substituted or unsubstituted.
Such amines, useful herein, include stearamido propyl dimethyl amine, diethyl
amino ethyl stearamide, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl soyamine, soyamine,
myristyl amine, tridecyl amine, ethyl stearylamine, N-tallowpropane diamine,
ethoxylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxy ethyl
stearylamine, and arachidylbehenylamine. Suitable amine salts include the
halogen, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, citrate, lactate, and alkyl sulfate
salts. Such
salts include stearylamine hydrochloride, soyamine chloride, stearylamine
formate, N-tallowpropane diamine dichloride, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine
citrate, cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and dicetyl diammonium chloride. .
" ,
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Preferred for use in the compositions herein is cetyl trimethyl ammonium
chloride. Cationic amine surfactants included among those useful in the
present
invention are disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal, et al., issued
June
23, 1981, incorporated by reference herein.
Cationic surfactants are preferably utilized at levels of from about 0.1 % to
about
10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 5%, most preferably from about
0.3% to about 0.7%, by weight of the composition.
Fatty Alcohols
The hair care compositions of the present invention may also comprise fatty
alcohols. Any fatty alcohol suitable for use in hair care may be used herein.
However, preferred are C$ to Cue, more preferred are C,2 to C,B, even more
preferred are C,6, fatty alcohols.
Fatty alcohols are preferably utilized at levels of from about 0.1 % to about
20%,
more preferably from about 0.25% to about 10%, most preferably from about
0.5% to about 5%, by weight of the composition.
If both fatty alcohol and cationic surfactant are present the ratio of
alcoholaurfactant is preferably in the range of from about 3:1 to about 6:1,
more
preferably 4:1.
Water
The compositions of the present invention will also generally contain water.
When present water will generally comprise from about 25% to about 99%,
preferably from about 50% to about 98%, more preferably from about 65% to '
about 95%, by weight, of the total composition.
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Additional Components
The compositions herein can contain a variety of other optional components
suitable for rendering such compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically
5 acceptable or to provide them with additional usage benefits. Such
conventional
optional ingredients are well-known to those skilled in the art.
A wide variety of additional ingredients can be formulated into the present
composition. These include: other hair conditioning ingredients such as
10 panthenol, panthetine, pantotheine, panthenyl ethyl ether, and combinations
thereof; other solvents such as hexylene glycol; hair-hold polymers such as
those
described in WO-A-94/08557, herein incorporated by reference; detersive
surfactants such as anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic
surfactants;
additional viscosity modifiers and suspending agents such as xanthan gum, guar
15 gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, triethanolamine, methyl cellulose, starch and
starch
derivatives; viscosity modifiers such as methanolamides of long chain fatty
acids
such as cocomonoethanol amide; crystalline suspending agents; pearlescent
aids such as ethylene glycol distearate; opacifiers such as polystyrene;
preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl
20 paraben, imidazolidinyl urea and the hydantoins; polyvinyl alcohol; ethyl
alcohol;
pH adjusting agents, such as lactic acid, citric acid, sodium citrate,
succinic acid,
phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts, in general, such
as
potassium acetate and sodium chloride; colouring agents, such as any of the
FD&C or D&C dyes; hair oxidising (bleaching) agents, such as hydrogen
25 peroxide, perborate and persulfate salts; hair reducing agents, such as the
thioglycolates; perfumes; sequestering agents, such as tetrasodium
ethylenediamine tetra-acetate; anti-dandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione
{ZPT), sulfur, selenium sulfide, coal tar, piroctone olamine, ketoconazole,
' climbazole, salicylic acid; antioxidants/ultra violet filtering agents such
as octyl
methoxycinnamate, benzophenone-3 and DL-alpha tocopherol acetate and
polymer plasticizing agents, such as glycerine, diisobutyl adipate, butyl
stearate,
and propylene glycol. Such optional ingredients generally are used
individually
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26
at levels from about 0.001 % to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.05% to
about 5.0% by weight of the composition.
Product Forms
The hair care compositions of the present invention can be formulated in a
wide
variety of product forms, including but not limited to creams, gels, aerosol
or non-
aerosol foams, mousses and sprays. Mousses, foams and sprays can be
formulated with propellants such as propane, butane, pentane, dimethylether,
hydrofluorocarbon, C02, N20, or without specifically added propellants (using
air
as the propellant in a pump spray or pump foamer package). In preferred
embodiments the compositions of the present invention will be packaged in
packages having instructions indicating that the composition is intended to be
left
on the hair.
Method of Use
The hair care compositions of the present invention may be used in a
conventional manner for care of human hair. An effective amount of the
composition, typically from about 1 gram to about 50 grams, preferably from
about 1 gram to about 20 grams, is applied to the hair. Application of the
composition typically includes working the composition through the hair,
generally with the hands and fingers. or with a suitable implement such as a
comb or brush, to ensure good coverage. The composition is then left on the
hair, generally until the consumer next washes their hair. The preferred
method
treating the hair therefore comprises the steps of:
(a) applying an effective amount of the hair care composition to wet, damp or
dry hair,
(b) working the hair care composition into the hair with hands and fingers or
with a suitable implement.
. ,. .
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The method can, optionally, comprise a further step of rinsing the hair with
water.
Examples
The following examples further illustrate the preferred embodiments within the
scope of the present invention. The examples are given solely for the purposes
of illustration and are not to be construed as limitations of the present
invention
as many variations of the invention are possible without departing from its
spirit
or scope.
Examples I-IV %wt)
I II III IV
S ra Gel Gel Gel
Carbo of Ultrez - 0.50 - - A
10'
Carbo 019342 0.10 - - 0.60 A
La onite3 - - 3.00 - A
Pol uaternium 104 0.075 - 0.30 0.20 A
trisodium citrate 0.70 0.10 - A
meth I arabens - - 0.30 0.50 A
ro I arabens - - 0.30 0.40 A
DMDM h dantoin - - 0.05 0.05 A
tetra sodium EDTA - - 0.10 0.30 A
citric acid - - 0.20 A
Ethanol denatured 25.00 20.00 - - B
I-iso ule ol5 - 0.20 0.10 - B
PEG 60 hydrogenated0.80 0.10 0.50 0.10 B
castor oils
CAPE' - - 0.30 - B
iroctone olamine' - 0.50 - - B
lactic acid 0.10 0.02 0.15 - B
henox ethanol 0.20 0.30 - B
Perfume 0.10 0.25 0.10 0.40 B
- CI 42045 Acid blue 0.0001 0.0001 0.0001- B
1
Triethanolamine 0.05 0.30 - 0.40 C
Dimethicone8 0.20 0.20 C
2-phenyl propyl 0.20 ~ 1.00 ~ 1.000.40 , C
M'Q ~ ~ ~ -
resin9
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Water s s s s
1 ) Carbopol Ultrez 10 supplied by BF Goodrich 6) Cremophor RH-60 supplied by
BASF
2) Carbopol 934 supplied by BF Goodrich 7) Tegobetaine F supplied by T H
Goldschmidt
3) Laponite XLG supplied by Laporte Co 8) DC200 supplied by Dow Corning
4) Polymer JR30M supplied by Amerchol 9) Prepared according to the
instructions in GB-
5) Coolact P supplied by Takasago A-2,297,775
10) Octopirox supplied by Hoechst
All of ingredients A are added to water and stirred thoroughly under ambient
conditions until a homogenous solution is obtained. All of ingredients B are
mixed together and then added to the homogenous solution of ingredients A. All
of ingredients C are then added and the resulting solution is thoroughly
mixed.
Examples V-VII (%wtl
V VI VII
Cream Cream Balm
Car o of Ultrez 10' 1.00 - 0.40 A
Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl - 0.60 - A
ac late cross of mere
Cet I alcohol3 2.00 1.00 - B
Stea I alcohol - 1.00 1.50 B
meth I arabens 0.08 - - B
ro I arabens 0.04 - - B
Cetrimmonium chloride4 1.00 - - B
PEG 60 hydrogenated 0.05 - - B
castor oils
CAPB6 0.10 - - B
Ammonium lau I sul hate'- - 0.20 B
PEG100 stearate8 - 0.13 - B
Pol uaternium 109 1.00 0.10 C
Pol uaternium 4' 0.10 - - C
Phen I M'Q resin'2 0.10 C
2- hen I ro I M'Q resin'20.20 0.50 - C
Ethanol denatured - 30.00 15.00 C
I-iso ule ol" - 0.50 0.05 C
Cam hor 0.10 - - C
zinc rithione 0.03 - - C
oct I methox cinnamate 0.10 - - C
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29
benzo henone-3 0.02 - - ~ C
DL-alpha tocopherol 0.03 - - C
acetate
lactic acid 0.15 0.10 C .
henox ethanol 0.20 0.20 0.20 C
' DMDM h dantoin - 0.05 C
tetra sodium EDTA 0.01 - 0.30 C
citric acid 0.10 - - C
Perfume 0.60 1.00 0.80 C
Triethanolamine 0.60 0.40 0.20 D
Water s s s
1 ) Carbopol Ultrez 10 supplied by BF Goodrich 7) Empicol AL30 supplied by
Albright & Wilson
2) Pemulen TR2 supplied by BF Goodrich 8) Myrj 59 supplied by ICI Surfactants
3) Crodacol C-95 supplied by Croda Inc. 9) Polymer JR30M supplied by Amerchol
4) Dehyquat A supplied by Henkel -- 10) Celquat L200 supplied by National
Starch
5) Cremophor RH-60 supplied by BASF 11 ) Coolact P supplied by Takasago
6) Tegobetaine F supplied by T H Goldschmidt 12) Prepared according to the
instructions in
GB-A-2,297,775
All ingredients of A are solublised in water and then heated to 80°C.
All of
ingredients B are then added. The solution is then cooled to 30°C
through a
plate heat exchanger with simultaneous high shear mixing. The cooling rate is
maintained at between 1.0 and 1.5°C/min. Approximately 50% of
ingrebient D,
triethanolamine, is then added and the solution is mixed until homologous. All
of
ingredients C are then added and the resulting solution is high shear mixed
until
homogenous particle size distribution is achieved. Recirculation is then
stopped
to prevent shear stress damage to the product during completion of
neutralisation. The remaining ingredient D is added until the specified pH and
viscosity are reached.
All of the exemplified compositions show good conditioning and shine while at
the same time having reduced tackiness and greasiness.
. ." .
