Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
v CA 02363117 2001-08-15
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Method ~ for Automatically Producing Tubular
Knitwear Items Provided with One or More Complete
Openings or Braces and Products Obtained thereby
DESCRIPTION
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a method ~~-z..yr~r
~.~.s.- for automatically producing tubular knitwear
items provided with one or more complete openings or
to braces and products obtained thereby.
The receT: introduction of "full electronic" circular
knitting machines with differentiated diameters has
attracted the industry's interest s=nce the versatility
15 Gf 'LheSE Ii~aCtllneS al LOWS tG producE a wide rangE Cf S4':'l_
'_' i T?'-Shed ~:ibulat" _ _EmS sLiC.h aS bras, pantleS, C=eSSES,
trGLSerS, SeCirtS, tedCtleS, SwlmSUi tS, ~ECf'lTlica. =~ETiS anC
mo=e.
2o But due tG some inherent technical limitations, among
ti-~em the lack of shoulder straps, loops and openings for
legs and arms, most of the aforementioned knitwear items
systematically require laborious and costly additional
finishing operations such as cutting or sewing. In
2s practice, in order to obtain loops, shoulder strGps and
sundry openings, a considerable amount of fabric is
scrapped, thereby continuously and permanently affecting
production costs.
< v hSer t pc3~.G S. biS 7
30 All this stated, the invention intends to reduce to a
significant exteW or eliminate at least in part some of
the aforesaid technical and productive limitations, to
manufacture .automatically said knitwear items complete
with shoulder straps and braces and sundry openings,
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-1 bls-
It is known from document US 4,022,035 a method for
producing a waist opening on a panty hose. In this method
the two tubular legs of the panty hose are knitted with
the continuous motion of the needle cylinder, while a
waist opening is realized, in the central part of the
tubular panty hose, by inactivating a number of adjacent
needles and by reciprocatingly operating the needle
cylinder.
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preferably without fabric scraps, with original economic,
technical, aesthetic and commercial purposes. As a
consequence, a major aim of the present invention
consists of providing a method and the related apparatus
for manufacturing tubular knitwear items in general with
three-dimensional or shaped effects, provided with at
least a complete shoulder strap or loop, preferably
manufactured with the continuous motion of the needle
cylinder.
A further aim consists of providing a method and the
related apparatus for manufacturing tubular knitwear
items, provided with at least a complete shoulder strap,
brace or loop obtained without cutting and sewing
operations.
An additional aim consists of providing a method and the
related apparatus for manufacturing knitwear items such
as bras, panties, underwear and outerwear, skirts,
trousers and technical items in general, obtained
practically without fabric scraps. Another main aim
consists of providing a method and the related apparatus
for manufacturing tubular knitwear items with complete
braces or openings provided with simple or double edges,
or with multiple layers, produced both with the aid of
the dial, and with needles or sinkers suitable for the
purpose, duly selected.
Lastly, a further main aim is to provide a method and the
related apparatus for manufacturing tubular items made of
three-dimensional fabric produced with the fixed and
prolonged exclusion of groups of needles also alternating
or by groups, with other needles still operating.
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' ' CA 02363117 2001-08-15'
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3
Disclo ure of the Invention
The above mentioned aims are,substantially achieved by a
method for automatically producing tubular knitwear
items, in knitting machines provided with at least a
r3~cordi h~ tp endsd
' 5 needlebed as ~e~~--~---~. the c aims, ~.a-
comprising the step of producing a first length of
tubular knitted fabric having a~wcylindrical sha and
ending with a last stitch course characterized i that it
comprises the.steps of producing at least a s and length
of.,tubular knitted fabric having at least side opening
by-excluding a predetermined number o needles of the
needlebed from the knit formin process for a
predetermined time interval and pr ucing ~ third length
of tubular knitted fabric by tomatic and programmed
resumption of said predetermi d number of needles of the
needlebed in the knit form' g process, said third length
starting with a first s tch course.
Advantageously du 'ng the step of producing said second
length of tub ar knitted fabric said predetermined
number of ne dles excluded from the process completely
releases a forming knitwear item.
More er during the step of producing said second length
of tubular knitted fabric the needles excluded from the
Additional aims are apparent from the description,
e-nbodiments and accompanying drawings, by themselves or
in mutual combination, in addition to the final claims.
The features of the invention and the advantages which
derive from it shall become more readily apparent from
the following description of embodiments provided by way
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of example and can be applied advantageously to most
knitwear and hosiery circular machines.
Brief Description of the Drawinas
The description will be made with reference to the
accompanying drawings in which:
Figure 1 shows a tubular knitted fabric in which a panty
to be cut and sewn is defined by dashed lines;
Figure 2 shows a tubular knitted fabric in which an
undershirt to be cut and sewn is defined by dashed lines;
Figures 3 and 5 show the progressive transformation of a
knit tube into a bra provided with shoulder straps;
Figure 4 is an enlarged view of a particular of fig. 3;
Figure 6 shows the application of the invention to obtain
a panty;
Figures 7 - 8 - 8 a - 9 technically show the steps
required for the production of the three-dimensional knit
frills Bi;
Figure 10 shows the technical diagram for an "embossed"
or cellular stitch structure;
Figures 11 - 12 -13 show the so-called "tuck stitch" of
a needle;
Figures 14 - 15 - 16 and 17 show the missing stitch or
welt of the needle:
Figures 18 through 23 show various embodiments of
knitwear items obtained in accordance with the invention;
Figures 24-28 show the knit tube shaped with headgear
functions;
Figure 29 shows a knitted fabric with a knit distorsion
or hole;
Figure 30 shows a front view of a bra provided with a
double edge and with a shoulder strap;
Figure 31 shows a side view of another bra provided with
a double edge and with a shoulder strap;
:wo oo~~ r- . . : , . - : , ~ ~. ~ . ~ . pcr~rroorooos~ .
''S . ,
Figure,. _ 32 shows.._the :horizontal or;_ diagonal frills of
Figure .31. .
the T ~ ~ ~ st aat ~ v Embodim
These results are easily achieved according to the .
invention, and_purely with..descriptive and non limiting
purpos Kn~~ost of .theydescript.ion concerns an essentially
circular mac -ine fitted- with at .least: a needle bed or
cylinder rotating against stationary cams or vice versa;
a complete feeding :station, provided with one or more
yarn feeder; preferably electronic needle selection able _
to control the elements concurring in the formation of
the stitching according to a work cycle and jacquard
pattern; pneumatic or mechanical system for drawing the
vnttv
fabric and lastly said circular.mac~ine is also ecuipped
with ~ dial provided with selectable needles or hooks.
Currently, many tubular items are co:,~pleted with
laborious cutting operations along pre-defined lines and
assembled with delicate and costly sewing operations. For
instance, in Figures 1 and 2, the knitted tube 1 provided
with Double welt 2, as a rule i~ cut along the dashed
lines in order to define the front part A relative to the
rear part P, and lastly to sew the resulting edges S
together, in correspondence with the extremities~3. These
operations inevitably entail considerable quantities of
scrap which, although variable according to size and
model, often exceed 20~ of the initial quantity of
fabric: a permanent waste which significantly impacts on
the final costs of the products. The invention is
initially implemented by setting up or programming a work
cycle or jacquard design, i.e. information directed or
precluded to the needles and jacks or other elements
concurring directly or indirectly in the production of
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the fabric, by means of a usual graphic station or
control or memory device or by means of electro-
mechanical, magnetic, optical apparatuses, and other
means suitable for the purpose in any way.
In accordance with the invention, the stitched tube of
Figure 3 is manufactured starting from the double welt 2A
with the aid of the hooks of the dial (not shown).
After a few courses, in correspondence with the symmetric
and opposite areas or lines 5 and 5A, according to said
work cycle or jacquard the complete release of the loops
by a part of the needles takes place.
In particular, Figure 4 shows an enlargement of section
6 of the previous figure. Once the manufacture of the
double welt 2A is complete, the knit fabric 30, as a rule
simple jersey, adjacent to the aforementioned lines 5 and
5A, is preferably modified into operated jersey 7 by
appropriately selecting the needles for knitting "non
run" of the "unravelling" type, term known to the person
versed in the art, characterised by knitting with tucked
stitches and welts shown, among others, in Figures 12 -
13 - 14 - 15 of Table 2.
In order to increase the resistance to unravelling of the
fabric 7, one or more knitted courses immediately
preceding the release of the loops along the line 5A, are
produced with the additional employment of a particular
thermo-adhesive yarn, able to melt gradually at
controlled temperatures during the finishing phase. The
automatic release of the loops or stitching by the
needles along the line or opening 5 (and/or 5A) produces
the simple edges or borders 8 and 9, which, under normal
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conditions, tend to coil onto themselves, like 10 and 11.
An aesthetic and functional result that is occasionally
appreciable especially in the presence of knitwear items
destined for young, practical customers. Conversely, for
more demanding customers the invention provides for the
aforementioned simple borders or edges 8 and 9 to take on
the characteristics of double welts, also elastic,
technically similar to the aforementioned edges 2A, and
obtainable in various ways: with the usual hooks of the
dial selected for the purpose or with a part of the
needles of the cylinder, for instance the odd needles AD
of Figure 8 which continue to produce stitching whilst
the even needles AP hold the respective lest loops.
Therefore an internal frill or flounce Bi is produced,
Fig. 8, or three-dimensional stitching with
differentiated growth, widely adjustable in amplitude and
height. Zastly, said double edge can be obtained by
employing special knitting sinkers, not shown, able to
hold the initial stitching rows and release them upon
command .
Incidentally it should be noted that the so-called
"waste", initial or final - term known to the person
versed in the art - can be positioned both internally and
externally relative to the knitted tube. The release of
the stitching by the needles can also be obtained in
different ways or times, which may vary according to
requirements or technical or textile factors. In a
preferred embodiment, if the machine or the work cycle is
set to the "zero" position, all feeds are cancelled, the
yarn feeders are excluded and all needles in non-working
position are engaged to the last loops. Subsequently,
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only programmed needles are raised completely in a single
feed in order to release the related loops or stitches.
At this point the knitted tube is engaged only to a part
of the needles and the knit-forming process resumes with
a simple or double edge, or otherwise, depending on the
article being manufactured, after the intervention of the
mechanical or pneumatic movable elements serving as tab
openers. In accordance with the invention, the total and
programmed interruption of the stitch-forming process of
a part of the needles of the cylinder, for defined zones
or areas of stitching, followed by the automatic and
programmed resumption of the stitch-forming process
preferably of the same needles and defined stitching
15, areas, produces the total and controlled separation of
theoretically consecutive stitching rows characterised in
that the former represents the last row of the produced
stitching, whilst the latter represents the first
stitching row produced after the aforesaid interruption.
The tubular knit item 1 of Fig. 5, an undershirt-bra or
simple bra, is provided with the edge 2A normally engaged
in correspondence with the central part Y but detached or
separated, hence open laterally with the creation of the
two loops produced automatically, which, folded upwards,
according to the arrows F1 and-F2, assume the form and
the functions of the shoulder straps 20 - 21. The
stitching areas indicated as 11 - 13 - 14 can be produced
with different knitted structures, such as the ones shown
in Table 2, according to the needs and variables of the
moment. In particular, the central area 12 is
structurally and functionally connected to the upper part
Y of the braces 20 and 21 or to the other adjacent areas,
able to support, by themselves or in mutual relationship,
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in a widely differentiated manner, the breasts. The
reference DB indicates the double edge produced after the
formation of the brace 20. In another preferred
embodiment, Fig. 6, the knitwear tube 1 is provided with
the usual double edge 2A and with the edges DB and
adjacent 2B. Therebetween are indicated the separation or
discharge lines of the stitching 5 and 5A, longer than
the similar lines described in Figures 3 - 4- 5 in
accordance with the new work cycle or jacquard design.
The programmed separation along said lines 5 and 5A
produces specifically the two loops 22 and 23 which,
folded downwards, are set side by side or overlap with
seat functions. The central stitching portion Z,
occasionally in excess, is ccntrolled by appropriately
selecting the needles, i.e. by reducing stitching
production relative to the surrounding areas. Figure 18
shows the bra 1 and the panty 1A manufactured according
to the invention. The central part of the aforementioned
knitwear items is characterised by vertical areas
characterised, in turn, by structures of operated
stitching M0, similar to the interlaces indicated in
Table 2, i.e. with a plurality or prevalence of tuck
stitches, Fig. 10 - 12 and 13, or welts, Figures 14 and
15 together with one or more internal stitching frills or
flounces Bi, Figure 8, opportunely located or superposed.
The aforementioned vertical operated stitching areas MO
are aimed, among other purposes, at the creation of an
original aesthetic and functional effect: the central
points indicated with the arrows F and F1, located in
correspondence with the forward elastic edges 2, are
amply displaced relative to the horizontal line
represented by the respective rear edges 2B, shown in
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dashed lines. This displacement is caused by the
simultaneous presence of two factors concurring in
various ways in the final result: on one hand, the
reduced presence of knit rows made scarcely elastic,
5 relative to the surrounding areas; on the other hand, the
presence of shoulder straps or loops 20-21 and 22-23
which "tend" respectively to raise, or to lower. An
aesthetically pleasing and particularly appreciable
result, keeping in mind the natural structural elasticity
10 of the jersey fabric, in particular. The aforementioned
knitwear items are therefore strongly characterised by
the presence of the upper shoulder straps 20 and 21 and
by the lower loops 22 and 23, joined or overlapping with
seat functions in this specific case. Incidentally, it
should be noted that the items 1 and 1A can further be
enriched with hems or trimmings G produced either
automatically through needle selection, for instance the
so-called "mouse tooth", term known to the person versed
in the art, or by means of the addition of sewn
ornamental material, required also if the item 1 is to be
completed with the sleeves M1 and M2 sewn in
correspondence with the lines S - S1, in Figure 21. The
tubular knitwear item 1 of Figure 19 schematically shows
a "teddy" or swimsuit or other similar garment provided
with two upper braces 20 and 21, produced by the partial
separation of the upper edge along the lines 5 and 5A,
with the simple upper edges possibly coiled.
Two other lower braces or loops 22 and 23 are also
produced through the partial separation of the lower edge
along the lines 5B and 5C.
The item 1 therefore is provided with four braces
obtained in correspondence with the two extremities of
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the knitwear tube, able to conform anatomically to the
different parts of the human body. In particular the
lower central part K with seat functions is formed by the
loops 22 and 23 fully set side by side and overlapping,
folded downwards. The invention further develops with the
manufacture of the knitwear item 1 shown in Figure 22
initially formed by the upper part A and by the lower
part B, both provided with loops or braces 20 - 21 - 22 -
23 and with a double edge 2 produced in correspondence
with the median part. Subsequently, a part is inserted
into the other one to complete the knitwear item which,
in this specific case, is formed by two concentric
fabrics, provided with a variable number of shoulder
straps, up to four.
Among the various embodiments falling within the scope of
the present invention is also the knitwear item 1 shown
in Figure 23; the interruption and programmed resumption
of the knit-forming process in correspondence with the
line 5 produces the automatic formation of the single
wide brace 20A enhanced with the double edge 2. The
programmed repetition of the interruption and the
resumption of the knit-forming process produce, on the
knitwear tube undergoing work, various openings such as
01 - 02, which can be characterised by simple edges BS,
or by double edges DB in correspondence with the openings
03 and 04. With reference to the knitwear item 1
variously illustrated in Figures 24 through 28, the
invention is realised in accordance with the method
schematically shown in Figures 7 - 8 and 9. Contrary to
the norm, a part - which may even be substantial - of
impulses or commands usually directed to the needles, is
not sent to a part thereof, according to a defined scheme
or program, conforming to the original design. This
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causes the exclusion from the knit-forming process of the
needles lacking inputs or commands; this exclusion, total
and for defined zones, produces the floating threads FF
instead of the stitching M, Fig. 7. Consequently, the
fabric produced or, better yet, the knit tube, undergoes
a structural deformation caused by the differentiated
growth of the stitching in its entirety, suitable for
predetermining three-dimensional shaping of the fabric
able to conform to the different anatomical parts.
The aforementioned floating threads FF, Fig. 7, can be
further manipulated with the use of some needles A, shown
working in Fig. 8, duly spaced in the aforesaid total
exclusion zone, with the dual purpose of reducing the
length of the floating threads and create, if the case
warrants it, pleasant knit interlaces. Hence the
invention is fully realised by further manipulating the
aforesaid floating threads FF and transforming them into
knit fabric produced only with a part of the needles
present in the involved areas or zones. For instance,
only even needles or alternating pairs of needles will be
excluded; i.e. in groups of "three operating needles
followed by one or more excluded needles, and so ori. The
simultaneous presence of working needles, alternating
with excluded needles, Fig. 8, for defined areas and for
a time which may even be relatively long, Fig. 9
(corresponding to a high number of stitch knitted
courses), is the sufficient and necessary condition for
the manufacture of an original stitched fabric, formed by
the working needles and related loops AD but interrupted
and still interlaced with the excluded needles and loops
AP, in order to produce a closed knit frill, with two
layers or fabrics Bi, Fig. 8, inside the usual stitched
tube. This growth of supplementary stitching or frill Bi
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is characterised on the front of the stitch by a perfect
suture caused by the elongation of the loops or stitches
of the needles AP not working and hence excluded from the
manufacture of the aforesaid frill, which is repeatable
and/or variable in height and width. Such frills Bi are
particularly attractive if arranged in small repeated
diagonals, so as to accentuate anatomic support and the
"padding" effect, being three-dimensional (Figs. 31 and
32). The method just described is further shown in
Figures 24 and 25 of Table 4, which illustrate an
additional embodiment of the invention concerning the
anatomical conformation of the knitwear item 1. In
particular, Figure 24 shows a knit tube 1, viewed
laterally, having the usual elastic edge 2. In this
specific case the aforementioned frills Bi formed by two
layers or fabrics, are inside the knit tube l, only on
the lower part. With the aid of individual computer-
controlled stitch-forming cams (not shown), the density
of the stitching 13 can be widened only in correspondence
with the designated area 11 in order to accentuate the
shaping or anatomical conformation effect, necessary in
the case at hand. The lower part of the knit tube is in
any case subject to the reduce density of stitching 12 or
operated stitching M0, together with the presence of knit
frills Bi produced with the previously described
technique illustrated in Figure 7 - 8 - 9. Figure 25
shows the final effect, i.e the knit tube 1 duly shaped
according to the arrow F; the internal knit frills Bi
produced in correspondence with the neck effectively
contribute to the final effect. Said knit item 1 can be
produced indifferently as a mere head garment or as the
initial or final part of a track suit, dress or other
technical item. Figures 26 and 27 differ from the
previous ones in some variations concerning the presence
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of a simple edge 32, with wound external waste 31 or
simple wound edge 33 and 34 . Fig . 28 shows the item 1
characterised in that at the start of the manufacture of
the knit tube 35, a predetermined number of needles
suitably positioned or spaced, also in groups, are
excluded from the productive process for a certain time.
This set-up produces a generally more transparent
stitching in the sense of the columns or ribs,
schematically represented by the dark horizontal lines.
The start of work by said needles produces, among other
effects, also knit distortions or the holes 36, Fig. 29,
which, suitably positioned, also serve an aesthetic
function. The ample flexibility of the'invention allows
to modify even substantially the shape and the functions
of at least a part of the current knitwear and hosiery
production with the described effects and results.
present description, necessarily limit ovides the
person versed in the ith broad margins for
innovation, ing within the scope and aims of the
30
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