Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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10
JEWELRY CHAIN
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Field of the Invention
2 o This invention relates to the field of decorative jewelry items, and more
particularly to a~
jewelry rope chain exhibiting unusual visual properties. This invention also
relates to W a
basic structural link element of a jewelry rope chain exhibiting unusual
visual properties.
Furthermore, this invention relates to the basic structural link element of a
jewelry rope
chain exhibiting attractive, decorative, and ornamental visual properties: In
addition, this
invention relates to an attractive jewelry rope chain exhibiting unusual
visual properties..
Brief Description of the Art
Rope chains are a popular type of jewelry made from linking a number of
regular annuhu
Iinks together in a repetitive manner and usually soldering or welding every
two links
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2
together. The result is a chain that is flexible and pleasing to the eye. The
annular links
are often formed of gold or other precious metal and are circular in form with
flat sides.
The circle is not complete as there must be a gap to permit the linking of the
links with
each other.
Rope chains are a popular type of jewelry made from linking a number of
standard sized
annular link elements together in a repetitive manner and usually soldering,
welding, or
otherwise bonding every two link elements together. The result is a chain that
is flexible
and pleasing to the eye. The annular link elements are typically formed of
gold, silver, or
other precious metal and may be round in cross section or may be rectangular
in cross
l0 section with flat major side surfaces, depending on the method of
manufacture. The
overall generally circular configuration of the annular link elements is not
complete as
there must be a gap provided to permit interlinking, i.e. interconnecting, of
the link
elements with each other. The result is a link element having a generally C-
shaped
configuration.
The generally C-shaped link elements are fastened together in a particular
way, such that
tightly interlinking annular link elements give the appearance of a pair of
intertwining
helical rope strands. A number of annular link elements are connected and
intertwined
together in a systematic and repetitive pattern of orientation, resulting in
an eye-pleasing,
flexible, and delicate-appearing chain that looks and feels like a finely
braided double
2 0 helix.
Jewelry rope chain has been made for many years. Although rope chains can be
made by
machine, the better quality rope chains are usually manufactured by hand.
While a rope
chain has the feel and look of a rope, it is actually made up of a series of
individual C-
shaped flat links made from a precious metal such as silver or gold. Gold is
available in at
2 5 least four colors: white, yellow, rose (pink), and green. The C-shaped
links are gapped and
fastened together in a particular way, such that tightly interlinking annular
links give the
appearance of intertwining helical rope strands. The links of hand-made rope
chains are
made with a tighter fit and are more visually appealing than are machine-made
rope
chains. A number of annular links are connected and intertwined together in a
systematic
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3
and repetitive pattern of orientation, resulting in an eye-pleasing, flexible,
and delicatc:-
appearing chain that looks and feels like a finely braided helix.
In a conventional rope cliain, the orientation pattern of individual links
producing the rope
chain is repeated every several links, for example every four links, and as
such is referred
to as a four-link rope chain. In an improvement to the conventional basic rope
chain, it is
taught in U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517 that the links can be constructed in
different and
narrower dimensions so that the pattern is repeated every six links or even
every eight
links. In U.S. Patent No. 5,301,498, to Chic et al., it is suggested that, by
narrowing tl~e
cross-section of the link, the six-link rope chain's connected segments appear
finer than
those of the four-link version and consequently provides a more delicate and
refined
presentation than that obtainable with a four-link rope chain arrangement.
While the '.S 17
patent uses a six-link rope chain as a preferred embodiment, that patent
teaches the
formulas for creating rope chains consisting of a repeated series of six,
eight, or more
links.
The assembly method for interconnecting a series of link elements can be found
by
reference to U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517 to Benhamou et al. and 5,301,498 to
Chia et al..
Some manufacturers of jewelry use different colored gold and silver elements
to enhance
the beauty of the jewelry article. Examples are: rope chains in which sets of
links of one
2 0 color alternate with sets of links of another color, and bracelets or
necklaces conshvetexi of
interconnected twisted loops exhibiting alternating colors along their
lengths.
However, in typical prior art construction techniques for producing rope chain
jewelry;,
each link is of a single solid color, texture, and pattern, e.g., each link
may be stamped
from a solid thin sheet of precious metal, such as gold. Thus, for example,
while an all
2 5 yellow gold rope chain or an all white gold rope chain is attractive, it
is otherwise
uninteresting due to the monotonic nature of its unvarying~coloration and/or
texture along
the links of the chain. Those prior art rope chains that do exhibit variations
of colors along
their lengths nevertheless are constructed of individual links each of which
is of a single
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solid color, texture, and/or pattern. Other jewelry articles exhibit
variations of colors along
their lengths using interconnected twisted chain loops, but they are not
regarded as rope
chains as defined herein.
Moreover, prior art link elements are generally C-shaped with a constant,
typically
rectangular cross section. As a result, a predictable visual effect is
realized when the C-
shaped link elements are assembled to simulate intertwined rope helixes.
Additionally,
after all of the link elements have been assembled into a finished rope chain
jewelry item,
a large percentage of the total volume of precious metal in each link element
is forever
hidden from view. That is, for the structural integrity of the rope chain,
certain
1 o dimensional parameters have to be maintained, and there have been few
attempts in the
prior art of manufacturing rope chains to reduce the amount of precious metals
being used,
for fear of lessening or destroying the structural integrity of the finished
product.
One example of prior attempts to reduce the amount of precious metal in a rope
chain link
element can be found in U.S. Patent No. 5,185,995 to Dal Monte. In this
patent, it is
taught to modify the conventional cross sectional shape of a link element by
maintaining a
large mass of material at the exterior edge periphery and forming a narrow or
pointed
interior edge periphery. However, since the cross section for a particular
link element is
constant throughout the extent of the link element, this severely limits the
flexibility of
design. For example, manufacturing a link element having different link
thicknesses, or
2 o different link widths, or different link cross sectional patterns along
the extent of the link is
not suggested in the '995 patent, and may not be possible when employing the
limited
teaching of the '995 patent.
Furthermore, because of the thin pointed interior edge of a link manufactured
to the
specifications of the '995 patent, the interior edges are fragile and can
easily be damaged
2 5 due to the softness of the precious metal (e.g., gold) and due to the
abuses that may be
inflicted on the rope chain while in use (excessive bending or twisting). Such
inadvertent,
but normal, usage can compress the width of the links, resulting in a loose
interfitting of
the links.
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Other prior art teaches forming flat surfaces on both sides of a link element
to produce a
double spiral effect within the already double spiral effect of an otherwise
conventional
rope chain. Both U.S. Patent Nos. 5,425,228 and 5,285,625 show flattened sides
on the
link elements, the latter patent showing the effects of such flattened sides
in Figure 5
5 thereof. However, neither of these patents teach constructing a rope chain
which has two
visually different helixes.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention provides the means and method for assembling links in a
manufacturing process to produce a rope chain piece of jewelry in which each
link exhibits
l0 a unique visual property, i.e., surface texture, coloration, attribute,
feature, characteristic,
or physical appearance. Such unique visual property traits for the succession
of links
results in a more attractive, fanciful, more delicate and interesting fashion
jewelry item.
In one aspect of the invention, each of the interconnected links has a first
side surface
exhibiting a first visual property and an opposite second side surface
exhibiting a second,
perceptively different, visual property.
In another aspect of the invention, rather than having each link side surface
of a uniform
visual property, one of the side surfaces, or both such side surfaces, may
exhibit
perceptively different visual properties in accordance with a predetermined
pattern
arrangement on each side surface. The two side surfaces so configured may be
identical
2 0 on both first and second side surfaces, or they may be different one from
the other. For
example, a portion of each first side surface may be of a first color, and
another portion
may be of a second color. Similarly, a portion of each second side surface may
be of a first
color, and another portion may be of a second color, and the design of the
arrangement of
different colored portions may be different on the first and second side
surfaces.
2 5 Instead of, or in addition to, differently colored portions, the two side
surfaces may exhibit
differently textured or patterned portions, e.g., one portion may be shiny
while another
portion may have a patterned, sandblasted, frosted, or matte finish
appearance. Also,
either side may be of a solid color, texture, or pattern, while the other side
is portioned as
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described. Thus, it will be understood that in all of the examples of the
accompanying
figures and the related text, where different colors are shown and described,
texture or
patterns can be shown, and the terms "texture" or "pattern" can be
substituted. To avoid
unnecessary duplication, however, color will be used as exemplary of other
visual
properties including surface texture and patterns.
Instead of, or in addition to, differently colored, patterned, and/or textured
portions, the
interconnecting links may have different shapes or shaped portions. For
example, some or
all of the links making up the rope chain may be smoothly circular, circular
with peripheral
undulations or crenels, circular with peripheral gear-like teeth, may be star
shaped,
baguette shaped, square shaped, rectangular shaped, oval shaped, diamond
shaped, heart
shaped, etc. Similarly, different portions of each link may have such
different physical
shapes.
As a result of the various combinations possible in the manufacture of jewelry
rope chains
in accordance with the present invention, a virtually limitless number of
different design
possibilities exist, and preferred ones of such possibilities are shown and
described herein.
It is to be understood, however, that all combinations of: the number of
interconnected
links in the repeated pattern along the rope chain; solid or portioned
coloration and/or
texturing; different designs of the portioned regions of each side surface of
the links; and
different physical shape and/or visual properties as identified in this
description may be
2 0 employed in the manufacture of jewelry rope chains and are contemplated as
variations of
the preferred embodiment specifically shown and described.
The present invention provides the means and method for constructing rope
chain link
elements in a way to produce a rope chain piece of jewelry in which each link
element, or
selected link elements, and therefore the rope chain itself, exhibits a unique
visual
2 5 property, e.g., surface texture, coloration, surface reflectivity, pattern
feature or
characteristic, shape, or other physical appearance attributes. Such unique
visual property
traits for the succession of link elements results in a more attractive,
fanciful, more delicate
and interesting fashion j ewelry item.
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7
In addition to exhibiting unique visual properties, employing the concepts of
the present
invention can produce lengths of rope chains in which one of the apparent
strands of
"rope" has a different visual appearance than the intertwining "rope" strand.
That is, the
appearance of a rope strand at any point along the length of rope chain will
be visually
different than the adjacent strand. For example, one strand may have an
apparent smaller
diameter than that of the adjacent strand. Or, the texture, coloration,
surface reflectivity,
pattern, shape, or other physical attribute of one strand may be totally
distinct relative to
the adj acent strand.
Additionally, in the process of altering the physical shape of the individual
link elements,
simultaneously with the enhancement of the visual effect due to the shape
altering
techniques, small amounts of the precious metal making up the link elements
are removed
without reducing the effective dimensional characteristics of the elements
and, therefore,
without diminishing the structural integrity of the finished rope chain
product. Moreover,
although not intended to be limiting, most of the variations of the present
invention
maintain a rectangular cross section for all or portions of the link elements.
Thus, a
distinct and decorative rope chain of a given length may have the identical
effective rope
diameter as one made with a common C-shaped link of constant cross sectional
area, and
yet result in substantial manufacturing cost savings due to less material
being used in the
manufacture of each individual link element, and due to the ability to form
the links using
2 0 inexpensive stamping techniques.
It can therefore be appreciated that creating link elements having variably
changing cross
sections to provide uniquely shaped building blocks for producing exciting and
beautiful
visual effects in the construction of rope chains, may simultaneously have the
synergistic
effect of making such physically altered link elements, and thus the rope
chains from
2 5 which they are made, less expensive.
In accordance with one aspect of the invention, there is provided, in a length
of jewelry
rope chain of the type comprising a series of tightly interfitting gapped link
elements and
having the appearance of intertwining helical strands, gapped link elements
each having a
first major surface, an opposite second major surface, an interior edge, and
an exterior
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edge, the improvement wherein: link width is defined as a distance, measured
along either
of the major surfaces, between a pair of parallel lines perpendicular to the
major surfaces
and tangent to, respectively, the interior and exterior edges; and at least
some of the link
elements in the length of rope chain have an irregular link width.
Preferably, at least some of the link elements in the length of rope chain
have a non-
symmetrical irregular link width along the extent of the link element.
In another aspect of the invention, each of the link elements that have an
irregular link
width is divided into segments, each segment possessing a unique link width
character
relative to an adjacent segment.
l0 One variation of a gapped link element made in accordance with the
invention has a
smooth interior edge and an irregular, preferably patterned, exterior edge.
An alternative variation has a smooth exterior edge and an irregular, or
patterned, interior
edge.
In another aspect of the invention, both interior and exterior edges may be
irregular or
patterned, the exterior edge preferably patterned for an attractive visual
effect and to
reduce the amount of precious metal, and the interior edge in:egular solely to
reduce the
amount of precious metal needed to form the link element.
In yet another aspect of the invention, rather than having the major,
substantially planar,
upper and lower surfaces of each link element uniformly smooth, one of the
major
2 0 surfaces, or both such major surfaces, may exhibit perceptively different
physical shapes in
accordance with a predetermined engraved, etched, diamond cut or other formed
pattern
arrangement on each major surface. The two major surfaces so configured may be
identical on both upper and lower major surfaces, or they may be different one
from the
other. For example, small portions of each upper major surface may be cut away
in a
2 5 desired pattern, and other portions may be cut away in a second desired
pattern. Similarly,
small portions of each lower major surface may be cut away in a third desired
pattern, and
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other portions may be cut away in a fourth desired pattern. The designs and
arrangement
of different patterns may be the same or different on the upper and lower
major surfaces.
Instead of, or in addition to, differently shaped major surfaces, the two
major surfaces may
exhibit differently textured portions, e.g., one portion of a link element may
be shiny while
another portion may have a sandblasted, frosted, patterned, matte, or diamond
cut finish
appearance. Also, either major surface may be of a uniform shape and/or
texture, while
the other major surface is portioned as described.
A further variation has half of the link at a reduced annular width, which
reduces material
but nonetheless gives the appearance of a rope chain having an effective
diameter the same
1 o as if the reduced half was of normal annular width.
Instead of reducing the annular width of one half of a gapped link, one half
may be
enlarged in annular width and provided with openings in the enlarged half. The
net
amount of precious metal is reduced, as desired, and yet the finished rope
chain will have a
large diameter and enhanced detail and beauty.
Thus, the interconnecting links may have differently colored, patterned,
and/or textured
portions, and may have different irregular or patterned shapes or shaped
portions. For
example, some or all of the link elements making up the rope chain may be
partially or
wholly smoothly circular with patterned major surfaces, circular with
peripheral
2 0 undulations, circular with peripheral gear-like teeth, circular with
diamond cut gouges or
notches, may have constantly varying cross sectional portions, may have
multiple or
relatively large openings therethrough from one major surface to the other,
and/or may
have an overall configuration that is star shaped, baguette shaped, square
shaped,
rectangular shaped, oval shaped, diamond shaped, heart shaped, etc. Similarly,
different
2 5 portions of each link element may have such different physical shapes.
A jewelry rope chain link element constructed in accordance with the invention
preferably,
but not necessarily, may have the shape and configuration of a standard
annular link
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element with at least a portion removed and has a maximum link width equal to
that of a
similar standard annular link element without any portion removed.
Similarly, a length of rope chain employing link elements as described in the
previous
paragraph, has an effective maximum diameter equal to that of a similar length
of rope
5 chain constructed of solid, standard size annular link elements without any
portion
removed.
From the viewpoint of a finished length of rope chain, the invention provides
an
improvement over the prior art, wherein: each link element in the length of
rope chain
comprises a link portion exhibiting a first visual property, and another link
portion
10 exhibiting a second, different, visual property; whereby, when viewed from
one side of the
length of rope chain, the appearance of one of the helical rope strands is
different than the
appearance of the other, adjacent, helical rope strand along the length of
rope chain.
For example, in one variation, the one helical rope strand is of a
predetermined effective
diameter, and the adjacent helical rope strand is of a different effective
diameter than that
of the one rope strand.
In another variation, the one helical rope strand has the shape of a helical
cylindrical tube
intertwined with the adjacent helical rope strand, and the adjacent helical
rope strand has
the shape of a helical cylindrical tube with an outer surface portion thereof
cutaway along
the length of the helical cylindrical tube.
2 o For the latter variation, the outer surface cutaway portion of the
adjacent helical rope
strand may be formed by a diamond cut process operating on pre-assembled link
elements.
As a result of the various combinations possible in the manufacture of jewelry
rope chains
in accordance with the present invention, a virtually limitless number of
different design
possibilities exist, and preferred ones of such possibilities are shown and
described herein.
2 5 It is to be understood, however, that all combinations o~ the number of
interconnected link
elements in the repeated pattern along the rope chain; solid or portioned
coloration and/or
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texturing; different designs of the portioned regions of each major surface of
the link
elements; and different physical shape and/or visual properties as identified
in this
description may be employed in the manufacture of jewelry rope chains and are
contemplated variations of the preferred embodiments specifically shown and
described.
The present invention provides the means and methods for constructing rope
chain link
elements in a way to produce a rope chain piece of jewelry in which each link
element, or
selected link elements, and therefore the rope chain itself, exhibits unique
visual
properties.
By providing individual link elements with different visual properties,
including different
shapes, the ultimate appearance of the completed rope chain can be determined.
For
example, if each individual link exhibits two colors, the resulting rope chain
will exhibit
those two colors. Since the link elements overlap, and since they are placed
in pre-
determined positions when they are interlinked, the location of the colors
will have an
influence on the appearance of the finished product.
Coloration is only one type of "visual property", and may vary according to
the type or
formulation of the material or materials from which a link element is made.
Reflectivity,
surface texture, pattern feature or characteristic, in addition to shape, are
among other
visual properties of a link that can influence the appearance of a finished
rope chain. Such
unique visual property traits for the succession of link elements results in a
more attractive,
fanciful, more delicate and interesting fashion jewelry item.
In addition to exhibiting unique visual properties, employing the concepts of
the present
invention, lengths of rope chains can be fabricated in which one of the
apparent strands of
"rope" has a different visual appearance than the intertwining "rope" strand.
That is, the
appearance of a rope strand at any point along the length of rope chain may
not only be
2 5 visually different than another point along the length of rope chain, but
may also be
visually different than the adjacent strand. For example, one strand may have
an apparent
smaller diameter than that of the adjacent strand. Or, the texture,
coloration, surface
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reflectivity, pattern, shape, or other physical attribute of one strand may be
totally distinct
relative to the adjacent strand.
In accordance with one aspect of the present invention, the annular, or
generally C-shaped,
link elements may be formed by a stamping process whereby the desired visual
effects on
the link elements are preliminarily provided on the sheet of material from
which the link
elements are later stamped. Alternatively, especially when the visual property
is surface
texture or shape, the desired visual effects on the link elements may be
created during or
after the stamping process.
In accordance with another aspect of the invention, the annular, or generally
C-shaped, link
elements may be manufactured by bending a thin elongated wire of prescribed
dimensions
into the desired C-shape. The wire may be supplied on spools and formed by
machine.
For example, a Link-O-Matic~ machine, such as the Model 534 available from
Crafford
Precision Products Co., One Industrial Court, Riverside, Rhode Island 02915,
can feed,
cut, and form a gapped, or non-gapped, link element each cycle of operation.
The wire
may undergo a preliminary surface texturing process, such as serrating, prior
to being cut
and formed into a link element by the machine, or the machine can form the
link element
and a subsequent surface texturing and/or coloration process may be employed.
The sheet of material may be fabricated from one or more species of the same
substance
(e.g., gold) or from a combination of substances (e.g., gold and silver). A
first portion of
2 0 the sheet may have a first visual property, and a second portion of the
sheet may have a
second visual property. Again, the visual property may be the result of
coloration,
reflectivity, surface texture, pattern feature or characteristic, or shape, or
other visual
property attribute that provides one portion of the resulting link with a
different appearance
than another portion of the link.
2 5 Importantly, as will be described in detail hereinafter, in the stamping
process, in addition
to die-cutting the outline for the overall generally C-shaped configured link
element from
the sheet of material provided, the die tools or devices may be fabricated to
impress, on
one or more of the major or side edge surfaces of the link element being die-
cut, a surface
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13
texture or shape. That is, any surface or surface portion of the stamped link
element may
exhibit a desired surface texture or shape produced by an impression on, in,
or to that
surface by the tooling or device employed by the stamping process, effectively
imprinting
a desired shape, form, or finish.
Portions of a link element may also be shaped by the die-cutting action of the
stamping
machine.
As indicated, surface texturing may precede or follow the stamping process.
However,
simultaneous die-cutting and surface texturing is more efficient and is
preferred.
After a link element is die-cut from the sheet of material, a subsequent
pressure stamping
l0 process may be employed to impress designs or patterns on the side edges of
the link
element.
By interconnecting together a plurality of link elements made in accordance
with the
invention, a rope chain can be manufactured that exhibits visual properties in
a distinctive
and decorative pattern. Intermixing link elements exhibiting different visual
properties in
a particular sequence during assembly of the rope chain can likewise produce
visually
pleasing lengths of rope chain.
In the process of altering the physical shape of the individual link elements,
simultaneously
with the enhancement of the visual effect due to the texturing and/or shape
altering
techniques, small amounts of the precious metal making up the link elements
are removed
2 0 without reducing the effective dimensional characteristics of the elements
and, therefore,
without diminishing the structural integrity of the finished rope chain
product.
Several examples of impressing lines (simulating scoring), serrations,
depressions, and
other patterns or designs are described in this specification. It should be
appreciated that
when impressions are made in a soft material, such as gold, during a pressure
stamping
2 5 process, there exists a physical displacement of the material previously
occupying the
depressed area. Thus, whatever material is pushed out of the depressed area
moves to the
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14
adjacent regions, thereby making the thickness of the link element greater at
such adjacent
regions. This is significant, since a thinner sheet of material, at less cost,
can be provided.
For example, when creating a serrated major surface on a link element being
pressure
stamped, material pushed out of each groove of the serration necessarily moves
into the
space between the grooves, increasing the actual maximum thickness of the
sheet of
material. Again, the combination of enhanced beauty and lower material cost is
realized.
Although not intended to be limiting, variations of the present invention,
shown and
described herein, are distinguished by a changing or varying cross section for
portions of
the link elements while maintaining at least a portion of at least some of the
link elements
l0 at a standard sized cross section. Thus, a distinct and decorative rope
chain of a given
length may have the identical effective rope chain diameter as one made with
standard
sized C-shaped link elements of constant cross sectional area, and yet result
in substantial
manufacturing cost savings due to less material being used in the manufacture
of each
individual link element, aside from the savings realized by forming the link
elements using
inexpensive stamping techniques.
It can therefore be appreciated that fabricating link elements having variably
changing
visual properties and/or variably changing cross sections, to provide uniquely
shaped
building blocks for producing exciting and beautiful visual effects in the
construction of
rope chains, may simultaneously have the synergistic effect of making such
physically
2 0 altered link elements, and thus the rope chains from which they are made,
less expensive.
In accordance with one aspect of the invention, there is provided a gapped
link element,
and a method of manufacturing such a gapped link element, of the type that is
assembled
with other link elements to form a rope chain, each of the link elements being
generally C-
shaped in configuration to define a gap between facing ends thereof, each of
the link
elements having a first major surface, an opposite second major surface, an
interior edge,
and an exterior edge, the method comprising: providing a sheet of material
having a
plurality of regions, adjacent ones of which exhibit different visual
properties; and
stamping, with a stamping device, a link element from the sheet, the link
element so
produced comprising segments of at least two of the plurality of regions.
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In another aspect of the invention, there is provided a jewelry rope chain
link element of
the type that is assembled with other link elements to form a rope chain, each
of the link
elements being generally C-shaped in configuration to define a gap between
facing ends
thereof, the link element comprising: a first major surface; an opposite
second major
5 surface; an interior edge; and an exterior edge; wherein the link element is
manufactured
by: providing a sheet of material; and stamping, with a stamping device, a
link element
from the sheet, the link element so produced departing from the shape and
configuration of
a standard link element by the provision of voids therein formed by the
stamping device.
In yet another aspect of the invention, there is provided a jewelry rope chain
link element
10 of the type that is assembled with other link elements to form a rope
chain, each of the link
elements being generally C-shaped in configuration to define a gap between
facing ends
thereof, the link element comprising: a first major surface; an opposite
second major
surface; an interior edge; and an exterior edge; wherein the link element is
manufactured
by: providing a sheet of material; and stamping, with a stamping device, a
link element
15 from the sheet, the link element so produced departing from the annular
shape and
configuration of a standard link element.
In yet another aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of
manufacturing a link
element of the type that are assembled to form a rope chain, the method
comprising:
providing a sheet of material having a plurality of regions, adjacent ones of
which exhibit
2 0 different visual properties; stamping, with a stamping device, an
elongated, substantially
rectangular, strip of the material, the strip having a prescribed length,
width, and thickness;
and forming the strip into a rope chain link element having a generally C-
shaped
configuration, a first major surface, an opposite second major surface, an
interior edge, and
an exterior edge, the link element so produced comprising portions of the
sheet of material
2 5 that exhibit at least two of the visual properties.
In yet another aspect of the invention, there is provided A method of
manufacturing a
gapped link element of the type that is assembled with other link elements to
form a rope
chain, each of the link elements being generally C-shaped in configuration to
define a gap
between facing ends thereof, each of the link elements having a first major
surface, an
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16
opposite second major surface, an interior edge, and an exterior edge, the
method
comprising: providing an elongated strip of bendable material having a left
end, a right
end, an elongated upper surface, an elongated lower surface, and elongated
front surface,
an elongated rear surface, and a surface ornamentation on at least one of the
elongated
surfaces; and bending the strip into a generally C-shaped configuration until
the left and
right ends face one another in a spaced relationship defining the gap between
facing left
and right ends. Optionally, the link element may have differently textured
and/or colored
upper and lower major surfaces.
Instead of, or in addition to, differently textured and/or colored major
surfaces, the two
major surfaces may exhibit differently textured or colored portions, e.g., one
portion of a
link element may be shiny and yellow gold in color, while another portion may
have a
sandblasted, frosted, patterned, matte, or simulated diamond cut finish
appearance and
white gold in color. Also, either major surface may be of a uniform shape
and/or texture,
while the other major surface is portioned as described.
A further variation has a portion of the link at a reduced annular width,
which reduces
material but nonetheless gives the appearance of a rope chain having an
effective diameter
the same as if the reduced portion was of normal annular width.
The interconnecting link elements may have differently colored, patterned,
and/or textured
portions, and may have different irregular or patterned shapes or shaped
portions. For
2 0 example, some or all of the link elements making up the rope chain may be
partially or
wholly smoothly circular with patterned major surfaces, circular with
peripheral
undulations, circular with peripheral gear-like teeth, circular with gouges or
notches, may
have constantly varying cross sectional portions, and/or may have an overall
configuration
that is star shaped, baguette shaped, square shaped, rectangular shaped, oval
shaped,
2 5 diamond shaped, D-shaped, heart shaped, etc. Similarly, different portions
of each link
element may have such different physical shapes.
A jewelry rope chain link element constructed in accordance with the invention
preferably,
but not necessarily, may have the shape and configuration of a standard
annular link
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17
element with at least a portion removed and has a maximum link width equal to
that of a
similar standard annular link element without any portion removed.
Similarly, a length of rope chain employing link elements as described in the
previous
paragraph, has an effective maximum diameter equal to that of a similar length
of rope
chain constructed of solid, standard size annular link elements without any
portion
removed.
From the viewpoint of a finished length of rope chain, the invention provides
a further
improvement over the prior art, wherein: each link element in the length of
rope chain may
comprise a link portion exhibiting a first visual property, and another link
portion
exhibiting a second, different, visual property; whereby, when viewed from one
side of the
length of rope chain, the appearance of one of the helical rope strands is
different than the
appearance of the other, adjacent, helical rope strand along the length of
rope chain.
For example, in one variation, the one helical rope strand is of a
predetermined effective
diameter, and the adjacent helical rope strand is of a different effective
diameter than that
of the one rope strand.
In another variation, the one helical rope strand has the shape of a helical
cylindrical tube
intertwined with the adjacent helical rope strand, and the adjacent helical
rope strand has
the shape of a helical cylindrical tube with an outer surface portion thereof
cut away along
the length of the helical cylindrical tube. The outer surface cutaway portion
of the adjacent
2 0 helical rope strand is formed during the stamping or die-cutting process.
When stamped from a sheet of material comprised of a number of edge joined
flat strips or
regions, one helical rope strand may be a helical cylindrical tube displaying
a particular
color pattern and intertwined with the adjacent helical rope strand which may
display the
same or a different color pattern. For example, one helical rope strand may be
of a solid
color, while the adjacent helical rope strand may have an outer surface
portion thereof of
one color and an inner surface portion, adjacent a channel of the rope chain,
of another
color.
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18
As a result of the various combinations possible in the manufacture of jewelry
rope chains
in accordance with the present invention, a virtually limitless number of
different design
possibilities exist, and preferred ones of such possibilities are shown and
described herein.
It is to be understood, however, that all combinations of: the number of
interconnected link
elements in the repeated pattern along the rope chain; solid or portioned
coloration and/or
texturing; different designs of the portioned regions of each major surface
and/or side
peripheral edges of the link elements; and different physical shape and/or
visual properties
as identified in this description may be employed in the manufacture of
jewelry rope
chains and are contemplated variations of the preferred embodiments
specifically shown
l0 and described.
The present invention relates to a jewelry rope chain exhibiting distinctive
visual
properties and to related means and methods for creating distinctive visual
properties in an
assembled rope chain. The distinctive visual properties may be imparted to a
length of
rope chain assembled with link elements all of the same material, shape,
configuration,
texture, and/or color, or such distinctive visual properties may be imparted
to a length of
rope chain assembled with link elements differing in material, shape,
configuration,
texture, and/or color.
For example, in one aspect of the invention, a manufacturing process may be
employed to
produce a length of jewelry rope chain in which each link element, or a group
of link
2 0 elements, may exhibit a common visual property, i.e., each link element,
or group of link
elements may have the same surface texture, coloration, attribute, shape,
configuration, or
other physical appearance prior to assembly, and subsequently be altered to
enhance the
beauty of the jewelry article by further coloration or texturing process
steps.
Thus, in addition to exhibiting unique visual properties, employing the
concepts of the
2 5 present invention, lengths of rope chains can be fabricated in which one
of the apparent
strands of "rope" has a different visual appearance than the intertwining
"rope" strand.
That is, the appearance of a rope strand at any point along the length of rope
chain may not
only be visually different than another point along the length of rope chain,
but may also
be visually different than the adjacent strand. For example, one strand may
have an
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19
apparent smaller diameter than that of the adjacent strand. Or, the texture,
coloration,
surface reflectivity, pattern, shape, or other physical attribute of one
strand may be totally
distinct relative to the adjacent strand.
In another aspect of the invention, a manufacturing process may be employed to
produce a
length of jewelry rope chain in which each link element, or a group of link
elements, may
exhibit a unique visual property, i.e., surface texture, coloration,
attribute, shape,
configuration, or physical appearance prior to assembly, and subsequently be
altered to
enhance the beauty of the jewelry article by further coloration or texturing
processes.
In either case, such unique visual property traits for the succession of link
elements results
l0 in a more attractive, fanciful, more delicate and interesting fashion
jewelry item.
It will be understood that in all of the examples of the accompanying figures
and the
related text, where different colors are shown and described, texture or
patterns can be
implied, and the terms "texture" or "pattern" could be substituted for
"color". To avoid
unnecessary duplication, however, "color" will be used as exemplary of other
visual
properties including surface texture and patterns.
Some or all of the link elements making up the length of rope chain may be
smoothly
circular (e.g., annular), circular with peripheral undulations or crenels,
circular with
peripheral gear-like teeth, and/or may be star shaped, baguette shaped, square
shaped,
rectangular shaped, oval shaped, diamond shaped, heart shaped, etc. Similarly,
different
2 0 portions of each link element may have such different physical shapes.
As a result of the various combinations possible in the manufacture of jewelry
rope chains
in accordance with the present invention, a virtually limitless number of
different design
possibilities exist, and preferred ones of such possibilities are shown and
described herein.
It is to be understood, however, that all combinations of: the number of
interconnected link
2 5 elements in the repeated pattern along the length of rope chain; solid or
portioned
coloration and/or texturing; different designs of the portioned regions of
each side surface
of the link elements; and different physical shapes and/or visual properties
of the
CA 02372630 2006-12-06
individual link elements may be employed in the manufacture of jewelry rope
chains and
are contemplated as variations of the preferred embodiments specifically shown
and
described.
According to an aspect of the present invention there is provided a generally
C-shaped
gapped link element of a type that is interlinked with a series of other such
link elements
to produce a jewelry rope-chain having the appearance of intertwining helical
strands,
each of the gapped link elements having a first major surface, an opposite
second major
surface, an interior edge and an exterior edge, wherein:
said first major surface is divided into portions, a first major-surface
portion exhibiting a
first visual property perceptively different than a second visual property
exhibited by an
adjacent first major-surface portion; and
said visual properties are color properties, surface-pattern properties or
surface-texture
properties, or combinations of color properties, surface-pattern properties or
surface
texture properties.
According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a
jewelry rope-
chain of a type comprising a series of tightly-interfitting gapped links and
having an
appearance of intertwining helical strands, wherein:
at least some of the gapped links comprise multiple segments formed by
stamping a
mufti-segmented material blank, each segment of the mufti-segmented material
blank
exhibiting a different visual property than an adjacent segment of the
material blank; and
each of said links has a first side surface exhibiting a first visual property
and an
opposite second side surface exhibiting a second, perceptively different,
visual property.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
jewelry rope-
chain of a type comprising a series of tightly-interfitting gapped links and
having an
appearance of intertwining helical strands, each gapped link having spaced
ends defining
a gap therebetween, each of said gapped Iinks having a first side surface and
an opposite
second side surface, and wherein each said first side surface of at least some
of said
gapped links is divided into portions disposed according to a predetermined
pattern along
the span of said link between said ends, each first side surface portion
exhibiting a first
CA 02372630 2006-12-06
20 a
visual property perceptively different than a second visual property exhibited
by an
adjacent first side surface portion.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
jewelry rope-
chain comprising a series of tightly-interfitting gapped links having an
appearance of
intertwining helical strands with a helical channel being defined between
intertwined first
and second helical strands, the first and second helical strands exhibiting at
least two
distinctly different visual properties along the length of said helical
channel.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
method of
manufacturing a gapped link element of a type that is assembled with other
such Link
elements to form a jewelry rope-chain, each of the link elements being
generally C-
shaped in configuration to define a gap between facing ends thereof, and each
of the link
elements having a first major surface, an opposite second major surface, an
interior edge
and an exterior edge, the method comprising:
providing a material having a plurality of regions, adjacent ones of which
exhibit
different visual properties; and
forming a link element from said material, the link element so produced
comprising
segments of at least two of said plurality of regions.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
method of
manufacturing a jewelry rope-chain comprised of a series of interlinked gapped
link
elements, each of said link elements being generally C-shaped in configuration
to define
a gap between facing ends thereof, each of said link elements having a first
major
surface, an opposite second major surface, an interior edge and an exterior
edge, and link
width is defined as a distance, measured along either of said major surfaces,
between a
pair of parallel lines perpendicular to said major surfaces and tangent to,
respectively,
said interior and exterior edges, the method comprising:
providing a sheet of material of precious metal;
forming a link element from said sheet of material, said link element divided
into
segments, each segment possessing a unique link-width character relative to an
adjacent
segment; and
assembling a plurality of said link elements to form a rope-chain.
CA 02372630 2006-12-06
20 b
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
method for
manufacturing a jewelry rope-chain, the method comprising:
providing a mufti-segmented material blank, each segment of said mufti-
segmented
material blank exhibiting a different visual property than an adjacent segment
of said
material blank;
stamping a plurality of gapped links from said mufti-segmented material blank,
each of
said gapped links having a first side surface exhibiting a first visual
property and an
opposite second side surface exhibiting a second, perceptively different,
visual property;
and
tightly interfitting a series of said gapped links to construct a length of
rope chain
having the appearance of intertwining helical strands.
According to a further aspect of the present invention there is provided a
method for
manufacturing a jewelry rope-chain, the method comprising:
providing a plurality of gapped links, each gapped link having spaced ends
defining a
gap therebetween, each of said gapped links having a first side surface and an
opposite
second side surface, the first side surface of at least some of said gapped
links being
divided into portions disposed according to a predetermined pattern along the
span of
said link between said ends, each said first side surface portion exhibiting a
first visual
property perceptively different than a second visual property exhibited by an
adjacent
first side surface portion; and
tightly interfitting a series of said gapped links to construct a rope chain
having the
appearance of intertwining helical strands.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWING
Further. objects and advantages and a better understanding of the present
invention may be
had by reference to the following detailed description taken in conjunction
with the
accompanying drawings in which Figures 6X,18X, I'73~ 34X, 35X, 36X, and 37X
are
Lined for color, and in which certain other figures are Lined for color or
texture.
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20 c
FIGURE 1 is a plan view of an annular link element which is the basic building
element
for the construction of jeweliy rope chains as known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2 is a cross sectional view of a solid core annular link element taken
along the
lines 2-2 in Figure l, also known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2A is a view similar to that of Figure 2, except that the link element
is
rectangular and hollow in cross section, known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2$ is a view siuiilar to that of Figure 2A, except that the link
element is circular
and hollow cross section;
FIGURE 3 is a side elevational view showing a section of a prior art rope
chain during the
manufacturing process, before removing a forming wire used to maintain proper
orientation of the series of links;
FIGURE 4 is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a jewelry
rope chain of
the prior art showing a uniform visual appearance for all links in the chain
for the entire
length thereof;
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21
FIGURE 5 is a perspective view of a number of loosely interconnected links in
an
expanded view to show the method of interlinking to form sets of links in the
series of
links along the rope chain, as is known in the prior art;
FIGURE 6 is a side elevational view of an annular link used in the manufacture
of one
embodiment of a rope chain in accordance with the present invention;
FIGURE 7 is a plan view of a first example of an annular link showing a
pattern of regions
on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties;
FIGURE 8 is a plan view of a second example of an annular link showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties;
l0 FIGURE 9 is a plan view of a third example of an annular link showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties;
FIGURE 10 is a plan view of a fourth example of an annular link showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties;
FIGURE 11 is a plan view of a fifth example of an annular link showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties;
FIGURE 12 is a schematic representation of a rope chain segment employing
annular links
of the type shown in Figure 6, the figure lined for the colors yellow gold and
white gold;
FIGURE 13 is another embodiment of a rope chain segment employing annular
links of
the type shown in Figure 7, the figure visually suggesting alternate helical
rope strands
2 0 lined to show the color yellow gold alternating with the color white gold;
FIGURE 14 is a view similar to that of Figure 13, with a number of annular
links inserted
in the series of links in reverse direction every two twists of the apparent
strands of the
rope chain;
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22
FIGURE 15 is an elevational view of section of rope chain manufactured using
the style of
annular link shown in Figure 7, and with the orientation of adjacent links
reversed every
six links along the axis of the rope chain;
FIGURE 16 is a left side elevational view of the segment of rope chain shown
in Figure
15;
FIGURE 17 is a right elevational view of the segment of rope chain shown in
Figure 15;
FIGURE 18 is a plan view of a sixth example of an annular link showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting four different visual color
properties;
FIGURE 19 is a plan view of a seventh example of an annular link showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting four different visual color
properties;
FIGURE 20 is a plan view of an eighth example of an annular link showing a
pattern of
four regions on the surface of the link exhibiting two different visual color
properties;
FIGURE 21 is a perspective view of a gapped link, similar to any one of those
depicted in
Figures 1, 6-1 l, 18, and 19, except that it has a virtually flat, but non-
planar upper and
lower major surfaces;
FIGURE 22 is a plan view of a ninth example of a rope chain gapped link which
has a
baguette shape, the link having the possibility of displaying a pattern of
regions on the
surfaces of the link exhibiting different colors, textures, or other visual
properties;
FIGURE 23 is a plan view of a tenth example of a rope chain gapped link which
has a
2 0 square shape, the link having the possibility of displaying a pattern of
regions on the
surfaces of the link exhibiting different colors, textures, or other visual
properties;
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23
FIGURE 24 is a plan view of an eleventh example of a rope chain gapped link
which has
an oval shape, the link having the possibility of displaying a pattern of
regions on the
surfaces of the link exhibiting different colors, textures, or other visual
properties;
FIGURE 25 is a plan view of a twelfth example of a rope chain gapped link
which has a
diamond shape, the link having the possibility of displaying a pattern of
regions on the
surfaces of the link exhibiting different colors, textures, or other visual
properties; and
FIGURE 26 is a plan view of a thirteenth example of a rope chain gapped link
which is
heart shaped, the link having the possibility of displaying a pattern of
regions on the
surfaces of the link exhibiting different colors, textures, or other visual
properties.
l0 FIGURE 1X is a plan view of an annular link element which is the basic
building element
for the construction of jewelry rope chains as known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2X is a cross sectional view taken along the line 2X-2X in Figure 1X,
also
known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2AX is a view similar to that of Figure 2X, except that the link
element is
rectangular and hollow in cross section, known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2BX is a view similar to that of Figure 2AX, except that the link
element is
circular and hollow cross section;
FIGURE 2CX is a view similar to that of Figure 2AX, except that the generally
rectangular
cross sectioned link element does not have straight sides, but rather sides of
an
2 o indeterminate shape;
FIGURE 2DX is a view similar to that of Figure 2BX, except that the generally
circular
cross sectioned link element does not have smooth sides, but rather sides of
an
indeterminate shape;
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24
FIGURE 3X is a side elevational view showing a section of a prior art rope
chain during
the manufacturing process, before removing a forming wire used to maintain
proper
orientation of the series of link elements;
FIGURE 4X is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a jewelry
rope chain
of the prior art showing a uniform visual appearance for all link elements in
the chain for
the entire length thereof;
FIGURE SX is a perspective view of a number of loosely interconnected link
elements in
an expanded view to show the method of interlinking to form sets of link
elements in the
series of link elements along the rope chain, as is known in the prior art;
FIGURES 6X-45X show plan views of link elements each of which are uniquely
different
in shape, texture, color, or configuration than other link elements in the
accompanying
figures, illustrating a variety of possibilities for the design and structure
of the link
elements which are assembled to form a rope chain, Figure 6X depicting a link
element in
which one half is of one color and of one shape, and the other half is of
another color and
of another shape;
FIGURE 7X is a plan view of a link element having a smooth interior edge and a
full
undulated exterior edge 22X;
FIGURE 8X is a plan view of a link element having a crenelated interior edge
and an
undulated exterior edge 28X;
2 o FIGURE 9X is a plan view of a link element having a smooth exterior edge
and a
crenelated interior edge;
FIGURE l OX is a plan view of a link element having smooth exterior and
interior edges,
and a patterned area along a central major surface;
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FIGURE 11X is a plan view of a link element having smooth exterior and
interior edges
with a patterned area along a major surface thereof;
FIGURE 12X is a plan view of a link element having smooth exterior and
interior edges,
and with a textured patterned groove along a central major surface;
5 FIGURE 13X is a plan view of a link element having smooth exterior and
interior edges
with textured depressions in a major surface thereof adjacent the exterior and
interior
edges;
FIGURE 14X is a plan view of a segmented link element, one half having a
narrow
annular width and the other half gradually increasing to a wider width at its
middle;
10 FIGURE 15X is a plan view of a segmented link element, one half having a
narrower than
normal annular width, and the other half having a non-linear relatively wider
annular
width;
FIGURE 16X is a plan view of a segmented link element, one half having a
narrow
annular width, and the other half having a relatively wider annular width with
an opening
15 therein;
FIGURE 17X is a plan view of a segmented link element, one half having a
narrow
annular width, and the other half having a relatively wider annular width with
an opening
therein and a portion with a different material or differently colored
material;
FIGURE 18X is a plan view of a segmented link element, one half having a
narrower
2 0 annular width, and the other half having a relatively wider annular width
largely open with
tendril-like filigree filaments bridging across the opening;
FIGURE 19X is a plan view of a segmented link element, one half having a
narrower
annular width, and the other half having a relatively wider annular width with
a repeating
symbol therein or thereon;
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26
FIGURE 20X is a plan view of a link element similar to that shown in Figure
9X, but with
one half having an undulated exterior edge and no interior crenels;
FIGURE 21X is a plan view of a link element similar to that shown in Figure 9X
with only
one side having a crenelated interior edge, and with the other half having
smooth interior
and exterior edges;
FIGURE 22X is a plan view of a link element similar to that shown in Figure
1X, but with
a double bumped projection on the exterior edge thereof;
FIGURE 23X is a plan view of a link element similar to that shown in Figure
22X, but
with an opening in the projection;
1 o FIGURE 24X shows a baguette shaped link element configuration version of
the link
element of Figure 11X;
FIGURE 25X shows a square shaped link element configuration;
FIGURE 26X shows an oval shaped link element configuration version of the link
element
of Figure 1 OX;
FIGURE 27X shows a diamond shaped link element configuration;
FIGURE 27AX shows a heart shaped link element configuration;
FIGURE 28X shows a link element in which an arcuate concave cut is made in
each side;
FIGURE 28AX is a partial plan view of a link element variation of the link
element shown
in Figure 28X;
2 0 FIGURE 29X shows a link element having a smooth interior edge and a
crenelated
exterior edge;
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FIGURE 30X shows a link element similar to that of Figure 28X, but with flat,
rather than
concave, side cutouts;
FIGURE 31X shows a link element having smooth exterior and interior edges, the
annular
width of which is less than standard;
FIGURES 32X and 33X are plan and side elevational views, respectively, of a
link
element which has notches or depressions spaced around the periphery;
FIGURE 34X shows a link element having a side of a first material and an
opening
therein, and a side of narrow annular width with undulations and of a second
material;
FIGURE 35X shows a link element of having a first side made of a first
material with
openings therein separated by a solid annular segment of a second material,
and a second
side of a third material and of a narrowed annular width;
FIGURE 36X shows a link element having a side of a first material and with a
plurality of
spaced differently shaped openings, the other side made of a second material
and having a
narrower-than-standard annular width;
FIGURE 37X shows a link element having a side of a first material and with a
flattened
edge, the other side made of a second material and having a standard annular
width;
FIGURE 38X is a partial side elevational view of a link element in which one
or both of
the textured major surfaces are serrated, or knurled;
FIGURE 39X is a partial side elevational view of a link element in which one
or both of
2 o the textured major surfaces have connected angled plate-like segments
producing a saw-
toothed profile;
FIGURE 40X is a partial side elevational view of a link element in which one
or both of
the textured major surfaces have V-shaped grooves;
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FIGURE 41X is a partial side elevational view of a link element in which the
exterior edge is
serrated, scored, or knurled, and the major surfaces are planar;
FIGURE 42X is a partial side elevational view of a link element in which both
major surfaces
and the exterior edge are serrated, or knurled;
FIGURE 43X is a plan view of a link element having smooth exterior and
interior edges, and
with a serrated, scored, or knurled, major surface;
FIGURE 44X is a plan view of a link element having a smooth interior edge, a
serrated, scored,
or knurled, exterior edge, and a serrated, scored, or knurled, major surface;
FIGURE 45X is a partial plan view of a link element having portions of its
major surface smooth
1 o and portions serrated, scored, or knurled;
FIGURE 46X is a length of rope chain in which each link element comprises
differently sized
segments resulting in one of the apparent rope strands being of a larger
diameter than the
adjacent strand; and
FIGURE 47X is a length of rope chain in which each link element comprises
differently shaped
segments resulting in one of the apparent rope strands exhibiting a much
different visual
properly than that of the adjacent strand.
Figures 48AX, 48BX, 48CX, and 48DX show how a number of identical link
elements are
interconnected in a special way.
Figures 49AX, 49BX, 49CX, and 49DX also show how a number of identical link
elements are
2 0 interconnected in a special way. The link elements in Figures 49AX-49DX
are similar to, but
have a different visual appearance than the link elements in Figures 48AX-
48DX.
FIGURE 1 Y is a plan view of an annular link element which is the basic
building element for the
construction of jewelry rope chains as known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2Y is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a jewelry
rope chain of the
2 5 prior art showing a uniform visual appearance for all link elements in the
chain for the entire
length thereof;
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FIGURE 3Y is a plan view of a sheet of material showing multi-colored edge
joined flat
strips or regions and, in dashed lines, the location and orientation of a link
element to be
stamped from such sheet of material;
FIGURE 4Y is a view similar to that of Figure 3Y, but with more colored
adjoined strips
and a different orientation of the link element to be stamped from such sheet
of material;
FIGURE SY is a view similar to that of Figure 3Y, but with different widths of
the colored
strips making up the sheet of material;
FIGURE 6Y is a view similar to that of Figure 3Y, but showing a different
orientation of
the link element to be stamped from such sheet of material;
l0 FIGURE 7Y is a view similar to that of Figure SY, but with different widths
of the colored
strips making up the sheet of material and a reversal of the colored strips;
FIGURE 7AY is an example of a link element stamped from a multicolored sheet
of
material;
FIGURE 8Y is a view similar to that of Figures 3Y or 6Y, but showing a
different
orientation of the link element to be stamped from such sheet of material;
FIGURE 9Y is a view similar to that of Figure 8Y, but with a different number
and
arrangement of colored strips making up the sheet of material;
FIGURE l0Y is a plan view of a sheet of material having an intermediate
textured region
and, in dashed lines, the location and orientation of a link element to be
stamped from such
2 0 sheet of material;
FIGURE 1 lY is a plan view of a sheet of material having multiple textured
regions,
thereby exhibiting three different visual properties, and, in dashed lines,
the location and
orientation of a link element to be stamped from such sheet of material;
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FIGURES 12Y and 12AY are perspective views of the segment of sheet material
shown in
Figure 11 Y taken along the line 12Y-12Y in Figure 11 Y, for the respective
embodiments
in which textured regions are present in the top only, or in both the top and
bottom major
surfaces of the sheet of material;
5 FIGURE 13Y is a view similar to that of Figure 10Y, but with the position of
the textured
region in a different location and having lines representing the texturing
perpendicular to
the length of the sheet of material;
FIGURE 14Y is a plan view of a sheet of material in which a preparatory step
of
imprinting surface texturing has taken place, prior to die-cutting out a link
element from
10 the material;
FIGURE 15Y is a cross sectional view of the sheet of material taken along the
line 15Y-
15Y in Figure 14Y, and showing two possible die-cut patterns for stamping out
a link
element;
FIGURE 16Y is a plan view of one configuration for a link element die-cut, or
stamped,
15 from the material shown in Figure 14Y;
FIGURE 17Y is a plan view of another configuration for a link element die-cut,
or
stamped, from the material shown in Figure 14Y, exhibiting a bulging effect to
the
segments of the link element that extend between the imprinted surface
texturing;
FIGURE 18Y is a perspective view of a laminated sheet of material from which
slices can
2 0 be cut and eventually formed into a link element similar to that shown in
Figure 49Y or
49AY;
FIGURE 19Y is a perspective view of a slice from a relatively thick sheet of
material that
can be bent, or rolled, to form a link element which has texturing on its
major and/or edge
surfaces;
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FIGURE 20Y is a perspective view of a slice from a relatively thin sheet of
material that
can be bent, or rolled, to form a link element which has texturing on its
major and/or edge
surfaces;
FIGURE 21 Y is a plan view of a length of sheet material from which slices can
be taken
and formed into a link element having surface texturing on one maj or surface
and one
peripheral edge thereof;
FIGURE 22Y is a side elevational view of the slice of material shown in Figure
20Y and
taken along the line 22Y-22Y in Figure 21Y;
FIGURE 23Y is a top plan view of the slice of material shown in Figure 22Y;
FIGURE 24Y is a plan view of a length of sheet material from which slices can
be taken
and formed into a link element with surface texturing on both major surfaces
and both
interior and exterior edge surfaces thereof;
FIGURE 25Y is a side elevational view of a slice of material similar to that
shown in
Figure 20Y, but taken along the line 25Y-25Y in Figure 24Y;
FIGURE 26Y is a top plan view of a link element shown in Figure 25Y;
FIGURE 27Y is a perspective view of a link element formed from the slice of
material
shown in Figures 25Y and 26Y;
FIGURE 28Y is a perspective view similar to that of Figure 19Y, but with deep
cut and
textured, elongated, and linear recesses formed in the sheet of material from
which a slice
2 0 is to be taken;
FIGURE 29Y is a perspective view of a link element made from the slice of
material
shown in Figure 28Y;
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FIGURE 30Y is an action perspective view showing four time positions of a
slice of
material, or a wire, illustrating the bending positions of a straight textured
and shaped slice
or wire into the configuration of a link element;
FIGURE 31Y is a view similar to that shown in Figure 36Y, but without showing
intermediated bending positions, and with a different pattern of surface
texturing;
FIGURE 32Y shows examples of different surface texturing that may be selected
to cover
portions or the entire major or edge surfaces of a link element made in
accordance with the
present invention;
FIGURES 33Y is a plan view of a link element of standard annular configuration
and
l0 displaying examples of major surface texturing;
FIGURE 34Y is a plan view of a link element in which the exterior edge is
serrated;
FIGURES 35Y-39Y are plan views of link elements each of a standard annular
size and
configuration and displaying different preferred color and/or texture patterns
on a major
surface thereof;
FIGURE 40Y is a plan view of a link element showing a major surface with
alternating
and spaced lining adjacent the interior and exterior edges, the lining being
in the form of
depressions formed during the stamping process;
FIGURE 41Y is a plan view of a link element showing cutout patterns along the
interior
and exterior peripheral edges, formed during the stamping process;
2 0 FIGURE 42Y is a plan view of a link element showing a major facial surface
with evenly
distributed lining adjacent the exterior edge, formed during the stamping
process;
FIGURE 43Y is a plan view of a link element showing a configuration departing
from the
standard annular configuration and formed by stamping;
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FIGURE 44Y is a plan view of a link element showing a configuration departing
from the
standard annular configuration, one half with beads formed along the exterior
side thereof,
all formed during the stamping process;
FIGURES 45Y-48Y are a plan views of link elements each having a configuration
departing from the standard annular configuration and formed by stamping;
FIGURE 49Y is a plan view of a link element formed by bending a layered wire
or a slice
of a sheet of layered material such that the major surfaces exhibit multiple
colors or
textures, and the inner and outer edges exhibit a single color or texture;
FIGURE 49AY is an edge side view of a link element formed by bending a layered
wire or
l0 a slice of a sheet of layered material such that each major surface
exhibits a single color or
texture, and the inner and outer edges exhibit multiple colors or textures;
FIGURE SOY is a plan view of a link element having a smooth interior edge and
a stepped
cutout on one side exterior edge;
FIGURES 51 Y-59Y are plan views of link elements each having a shaped
configuration
departing from the standard annular configuration and formed by stamping,
Figures 53Y,
SSY, and 56Y showing all or a portion of the link element as a series of
adjacently
connected geometric or design shapes;
FIGURE 60Y is a schematic representation showing the assembly sequence of link
elements forming a length of rope chain, employing link elements of standard,
or
2 0 substandard, annular widths alternating with link elements having a
portion relatively
enlarged in annular width such as that shown in Figure 43Y;
FIGURE 61 Y is a schematic representation showing the assembly sequence of
link
elements forming a length of rope chain, employing link elements each having a
portion
relatively enlarged in annular width such as that shown in Figure 43Y;
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FIGURE 62Y is a schematic representation showing the assembly sequence of link
elements forming a length of rope chain, employing aligned link elements each
having a
portion relatively enlarged in annular width such as that shown in Figure 43Y;
FIGURE 63Y is a schematic representation showing the assembly sequence of link
elements forming a length of rope chain, employing link elements, whether
annularly
shaped or otherwise, of different dimensions alternating every six link
elements;
FIGURE 64Y is a schematic representation showing the assembly sequence of link
elements forming a length of rope chain, employing link elements of standard,
or
substandard, annular widths alternating with link elements having relatively
enlarged
annular widths;
FIGURE 65Y is a schematic representation showing the assembly sequence of link
elements forming a length of rope chain, employing pairs of link elements of
standard, or
substandard, annular widths alternating with pairs of link elements having
relatively
enlarged annular widths;
FIGURE 66Y is a plan view of a sheet of material having multiple colored or
textured
regions, thereby exhibiting five different visual properties, and, in dashed
lines, the
location and orientation of link elements to be stamped from such sheet of
material;
FIGURE 67Y is a plan view similar to that of Figure 66, but with the
orientation of link
elements rotated 180°;
2 0 FIGURE 68Y is a plan view of a sheet of material having multiple colored
or textured
regions, thereby exhibiting five different visual properties, and, in dashed
lines, the
location and orientation of link elements to be stamped from such sheet of
material;
FIGURE 69Y is a fragment representation of the sheet of material shown in
Figure 66Y or
67Y;
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FIGURE 70Y is a is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a
length of
jewelry rope chain showing the color or texture pattern resulting from
assembling link
elements including link elements stamped from the sheet of material shown in
Figures 66Y
and 67Y;
5 FIGURE 71 Y is a fragment representation of the sheet of material shown in
Figure 68Y;
FIGURE 72Y is a is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a
length of
jewelry rope chain showing the color or texture pattern resulting from
assembling link
elements stamped from the sheet of material shown in Figure 68Y;
FIGURE 73Y is a plan view of a sheet of material having multiple colored or
textured
l0 regions, thereby exhibiting five different visual properties, and from
which some of the
link elements shown in Figure 74Y are stamped;
FIGURE 74Y is a is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a
length of
jewelry rope chain showing the color or texture pattern resulting from
assembling link
elements stamped from a sheet of material or from different sheets of
material, similar to
15 that shown in Figure 73Y, but with offset color/texture patterns on
adjacent link elements;
FIGURE 75Y is a plan view of three different link elements, each stamped from
a sheet of
material or from different sheets of material, similar to that shown in Figure
73Y, each link
element exhibiting a different, i.e. offset, arrangement of color/texture
patterns from the
adjacent link element;
2 0 FIGURE 76Y is a plan view of a sheet of material from which curved slices
can be cut and
eventually formed into a link element; and
FIGURE 77Y is a plan view of a sheet of material from which link elements can
be
stamped, the link elements being interlinked in layout and alternating in
their gap
positions to minimize material waste.
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FIGURE 1Z is a plan view of an annular link element which is the basic
building element
for the construction of jewelry rope chains as known in the prior art;
FIGURE 1 AZ is a plan view of a baguette shaped link element which may be used
with or
without other link elements to construct a jewelry rope chain as known in the
prior art;
FIGURE 2Z is a cross sectional view of a solid core annular link element taken
along the
lines 2Z-2Z in Figure 1Z, also known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2AZ is a view similar to that of Figure 2Z, except that the link
element is
rectangular and hollow in cross section, as known in the prior art;
FIGURE 2BZ is a view similar to that of Figure 2AZ, except that the link
element is
l0 circular and hollow in cross section, as known in the prior art;
FIGURE 3Z is a side elevational view showing a section of a prior art rope
chain during
the manufacturing process, before removing a forming wire used to maintain
proper
orientation of the series of link elements;
FIGURE 4Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain shaded to show
the
outward appearance of a length of jewelry rope chain of the prior art
exhibiting a uniform
visual appearance for all link elements in the chain for the entire length
thereof;
FIGURE SZ is a plan view of a first example of an annular link element showing
a pattern
of two regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting two different
visual properties;
FIGURE 6Z is a schematic representation of a length of rope chain employing
annular link
2 0 elements of the type shown in Figure SZ, the figure visually suggesting a
pair of
intertwined helical rope strands lined to show the color yellow gold
alternating with the
color white gold;
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FIGURE 7Z is a plan view of a second example of an annular link element
showing a
pattern of three regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting two
different visual
properties;
FIGURE 8Z is a plan view of a third example of an annular link element showing
a pattern
of five regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting two different
visual properties;
FIGURE 9Z is a plan view of a fourth example of an annular link element
showing a
pattern of six regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting four
different visual
color properties;
FIGURE 1 OZ is a plan view of a fifth example of an annular link element
showing a
l0 pattern of four regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting four
different visual
color properties;
FIGURE 11Z is a plan view of an sixth example of an annular link element, as
it would be
stamped from a multicolored sheet of material, showing a pattern of four
regions on the
surface of the link element exhibiting two different visual color properties;
FIGURE 12Z is a plan view of a seventh example of an annular link element
showing a
pattern of five regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting two
different visual
properties;
FIGURE 13Z is a plan view of an eighth example of a link element formed with
one side
larger than the other side, the transition between the two sides being a
smooth transition;
2 o FIGURE 14Z is a plan view of an ninth example of a link element formed
with one side
larger than the other side, the relatively abrupt transition between the two
sides located on
the larger link side;
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FIGURE 15Z is a plan view of an tenth example of a link element formed with
one side
larger than the other side, the relatively abrupt transition between the two
sides located on
the smaller link side;
FIGURE 16Z is a front elevational view of a first example of a length of rope
chain
partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colonization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 17Z is a front elevational view of a second example of a length of rope
chain
partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colonization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 18Z is a front elevational view of a third example of a length of rope
chain
partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colonization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 19Z is a front elevational view of a fourth example of a length of rope
chain
partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colonization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 20Z is a front elevational view of a fifth example of a length of rope
chain
partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colonization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 21Z is a front elevational view of a sixth first example of a length of
rope chain
2 0 partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colonization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 22Z is a front elevational view of a seventh first example of a length
of rope
chain partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to
show in the lower part of the figure colonization of one of the strands of the
rope chain;
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FIGURE 23Z is a front elevational view of an eighth example of a length of
rope chain
partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colorization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 24Z is a front elevational view of a ninth example of a length of rope
chain
partitioned to show in the upper part of the figure an untreated chain
portion, and to show
in the lower part of the figure colorization of one of the strands of the rope
chain;
FIGURE 25Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
a colored
helical stripe along the outer periphery of one of the intertwined rope chain
strands;
FIGURE 26Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
a colored
helical stripe along the outer periphery of both of the intertwined rope chain
strands;
FIGURE 27Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
a colored
helical stripe along the inner side of one channel of the rope chain;
FIGURE 28Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
a colored
helical stripe along both inner sides of one channel of the rope chain;
FIGURE 29Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
a colored
helical stripe along both inner sides of both channels of the rope chain;
FIGURE 30Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
cut
portions on four sides;
FIGURE 31Z is an end view of the length of rope chain shown in Figure 30Z;
2 0 FIGURE 32Z is an end view of another embodiment of rope chain showing cut
portions on
eight sides;
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FIGURE 33Z is an end view of another embodiment of rope chain showing cut
portions of
unequal spacing from the axis of the chain;
FIGURE 34Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
two
different diameters of rope strands and cut portions on four sides;
5 FIGURE 35Z is an end view of the length of rope chain shown in Figure 34Z;
FIGURE 36Z is an end view of another embodiment of rope chain showing cut
portions on
eight sides;
FIGURE 37Z is an end view of another embodiment of rope chain showing cut
portions of
unequal spacing from the axis of the chain;
l0 FIGURE 38Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain
showing helical
cut portions on only the larger of the two rope strands; and
FIGURE 39Z is a front elevational view of another length of rope chain showing
alternating colored chain segments along the length of the rope chain.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST EMBODIMENTS
15 Figure 1 is a plan view of an annular link used in the construction of
jewelry rope chains as
known in the prior art. In general, Figures 1-5 depict a conventional rope
chain
arrangement (Figures 3 and 4), a typical annular link (Figures l and 2)
employed as a basic
building element in the construction of the rope chain, and a number of
loosely
interconnected annular links (Figure 5) to illustrate the positional
relationship of adjacent
2 0 annular links along the rope chain.
For the purposes of this description, the following definitions are provided.
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"Rope chain" is a series of sets of interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements which has
the appearance of a plurality of braided, or helically intertwined, multi-
fiber strands of
hemp, flax, or the like.
A "set" is the number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, links making
up a
structurally repeated pattern along the chain. In the accompanying drawings
and
associated text, a six-link set is used for purposes of ease of visual
presentation and
description. The preferred number of links in a set is eight.
A "group" is a number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, links
exhibiting identical
visual properties. The number of links in a group may be the same or different
than the
number of links in a set. Groups may be uniformly or randomly distributed
along the rope
chain.
A "link" is the basic building element, a number of which are assembled in
series to form a
rope chain. A link is typically annular in shape with an open gap having a
length slightly
greater than the width of the annular link. In accordance with the invention,
a link may
have a circular, baguette, oval, diamond, rectangular, square, heart shaped,
or other
geometrical shape, and each is provided with a gap at a selected position
along the
perimeter thereof. Accordingly, while the links of a rope chain are not
necessarily annular,
it is the preferred configuration for the basic building element of a rope
chain, and for that
reason an annular link will be used in most of the examples shown and
described herein.
2 0 A "channel" is the path which the eye follows in passing along the rope
chain at the apex
of the V-shaped helical groove formed between the apparent intertwined rope
braids.
Hence, in the preferred embodiments described herein, the rope chain has the
appearance
of a pair of intertwined braids of ropes, and thus there exists two such
helical channels
offset from one another by one-half of the pitch of either helix.
A "visual property", as used herein, is a characteristic of an object which
presents a
particular visual image to the eye. Such characteristics include, but are not
limited to,
color, texture, pattern, or physical shape. Although shape is also a physical
property of an
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object, in the art of jewelry making, it is often the physical shapes which
impart beauty and
delicateness to a fashion item.
Referring now to Figures 1 and 2, an annular link 1 is shown to have a
generally
rectangular cross section (Figure 2) and a gap 3 having sloping edges, the
narrowest width
of gap 3 being slightly larger than the thickness of the annular link 1.
While conventional rope chains are constructed using annular links having a
rectangular
cross section as shown in Figure 2, variations with different cross sectional
geometries are
possible. Figures 2A and 2B depict two such variations. The cross section of
tubular link
lA in Figure 2A is rectangular and hollow (known from U.S. Patent No.
4,651,517).
lfl Another variation is shown in Figure 2B in which the tubular link element
1B has a hollow
circular cross section. All of the link element embodiments and variations of
the present
invention illustrated in Figures 6-26 can be solid or hollow in cross section,
and may have
any geometrical cross sectional configuration. A non-limiting solid
rectangular cross
section is chosen as exemplary in the accompanying drawings for illustrative
purposes
only.
Conventional rope chains, such as those shown in Figures 3 and 4, are made
with a
systematic and repetitive interlinking of basic annular links 1. The annular
link 1 must
meet certain dimensional requirements for the interlinking to result in a well-
fitting rope
chain. Such dimensions are known in the art and will vary from a four-link
variety to a
2 0 six-link variety to an eight-link variety, and so on. Determining the
proper dimensions for
the annular link 1 and the gap 3 therein, depending upon the number of desired
links to
form a set of interlinked links, can be readily understood by reference to the
aforementioned U.S. patents, especially U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517. As can be
viewed in
Figures 3 and 4 herein, the intertwined links 1 of a segment of a conventional
rope chain 5
2 5 are shown in Figures 3 and 4 in the form of a six-link variety. In their
assembled form, the
series of links 1 produce the appearance of a first braid of rope 7 and a
second braid of
rope 8, the combination of which results in a double intertwined helical
appearance.
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As best seen in Figures 3 and 4, the apparent intertwining of a pair of rope
braids 7 and 8
results in a V-shaped groove between the braids at any position along the rope
chain. The
path along the apex of such V-shaped groove is referred to herein as a
"channel", and since
there are two apparent rope braids 7 and 8, there are, likewise, two defined
channels
indicating Figure 3 by the directional arrows 10 and 12. Channel 10, along the
length of
the rope chain, defines a helix, as does channel 12. However, the two channels
never
intersect one another, and are parallel to one another along the length of the
rope chain
separated axially by one half of the pitch of either of the two channels. In
the prior art of
Figures 3 and 4, there is no visual difference between following along the two
helical
channels 10 and 12, since the rope chain is comprised of a repetitive series
of sets of links
1, and all links have the same visual property (they are all of the same
color, texture, and
shape, for example).
Figure 3 is a side elevational view showing a section of a prior art rope
chain during the
manufacturing process, before removing a forming wire used to maintain proper
orientation of the series of links.
Further with respect to Figure 3, in the construction of a rope chain using
annular links 1,
it is necessary to maintain a tightly interlinking of the annular links until
the entire rope
chain is completed, and for that purpose, a pair of support wires 6 are
positioned in the
channels 10 and 12 and are kept in place until such time as a means of fixing
the
2 0 assembled links 1 together is completed. In U.S. Patent 4,651,517, for
example, after
building up the links in the manner described therein, to form the double
helix chain, the
links are held in the desired juxtaposition temporarily by a thin metal wire
wrapped around
the links. Then, solder is intermittently applied to every pair of adjacent
links at the
external periphery thereof. The wire is then removed and does not comprise a
part of the
2 5 completed rope chain.
Figure 4 is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a jewelry
rope chain of
the prior art showing a uniform visual appearance for all links in the chain
for the entire
length thereof.
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In Figure 4, the distance denoted by numeral 9 encompasses the links of a
"set" of links,
and it will be noted that links 11 and 13 lie in the same plane, but are
angularly displaced
from one another along the links of the rope chain by 180°. That is,
following the position
of link 11 counterclockwise (as seen from the top) and downwardly, it will be
observed
that each subsequent link is angularly spaced at a constant 30° angle,
and since there are
six links per set, a 180° turn of link 11 downwardly along the rope
chain will be effectively
rotated 180° to assume the position of link 13. As is clearly visible
in Figure 4, a series of
sets of links 1 makes up the length of rope chain illustrated.
For an eight-link "set" (not shown, but defining a preferred embodiment), each
subsequent
link will be angularly spaced at a constant 22.5° angle.
Figure 5 is a perspective view of a set of loosely interconnected links in an
expanded view
to show the interlinking of the links to form a set of links in the series of
links along the
rope chain, as is known in the prior art. The drawing of Figure 5 is copied
from U.S. Patent
No. 4,651,517 (Figure 8g thereof), and shows a number of annular links A1-A6,
B 1 and
B2, each with a gap 3 permitting the complex interlinking arrangement shown. A
set of
annular links A1-A6, when tightly assembled, results in the structured,
repeated, pattern
shown in Figure 4 with the annular link A1 of a first set of links lying in
the same plane as
the first annular link B1 belonging to the next adjacent set of annular links
B1-B6 (only
links B 1 and B2 shown).
2 0 In the remaining figures to be described, Figures 6-11 illustrate
variations of the present
invention in which the annular links are manufactured with a variety of
different appealing
visual properties.
In Figure 6, for example, the plan view of the annular link 21 has one planar
side, or facial,
major surface 23 (hereinafter referred to as a first side surface) of a first
color and the
2 5 opposite planar side, or facial, major surface 25 (hereinafter referred to
as a second side
surface) of a different color. The link 21 may be formed, for example, by
stamping a flat
sheet constructed of two laminated layers of different flat materials, or of
two laminated
layers of materials of different colors, and/or textures.
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In this connection, all of Figures 6-20 have portions lined or marked to show
the colors
yellow gold, white gold, rose (pink) gold, and green gold, indicating that,
for a jewelry
article such as a rope chain, the preferred colors are yellow gold and white
gold, but rose
and/or green gold areas may also be popular, especially with younger people.
In all of the
5 Figures 6-20, the portions of the annular links, and therefore the rope
chain, lined for gold
colors may be a result of gold plating a metallic annular link, such that the
color of side
surfaces 23 and 25 extends beyond the edges to meet in the middle of the
annular edge (as
shown), or either one of the colors may extend the full width of the edge of
the annular
link 21 (not shown). Alternatively, as suggested by Figure 6, the links may,
for example,
10 be laminated with a yellow gold layer 27 and a white gold layer 29. It is
also within the
scope of the present invention to use gapped links that have been enameled or
otherwise
surface coated.
Figure 7 is a plan view of a first example of an annular link showing a
pattern of regions
on a surface of a link 31, exhibiting different visual properties. In Figure
7, annular link
15 31 is divided along a line 37 such that one half 33 of the annular link 31
between the
dividing line 37 and the gap 3 is yellow gold colored, while the other half 35
is white gold
colored. Again (as with all variations shown in Figures 6-11), these colored
surfaces 33,
35 may be differently plated, or each link portion may be made from a solid
precious metal
such as yellow gold and white gold. In the latter case, the gapped links may
be stamped
2 o from a multicolored flat sheet, striped with a number of alternately
colored gold materials,
or alternately striped with different materials such as gold and silver. Such
a striped flat
sheet may be stamped to form gapped links in different orientations relative
to the stripe
pattern and relative to the gap position, resulting in a variety of
interesting colored patterns
in the finished rope chain, yet all such links can be stamped from the same
striped sheet.
2 5 Figure 8 is a plan view of a second example of an annular link 41 showing
a pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties. In
Figure 8, the
annular link 41 has two major curved portions 43, 44 of yellow gold, while a
small section
45 is white gold, the section 45 being defined by separating lines 46 and 47.
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46
Figure 9 is a plan view of a third example of an annular link 51 showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties. In
Figure 9, the
annular link 51 has a major curved portion 55 and a minor curved portion 53 of
a yellow
gold color, while a sector 57 of the annular link 51 is white gold.
Figure 10 is a plan view of a fourth example of an annular link 61 showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties.
This figure shows
yet another variety of coloration in which the annular link 61 is divided
along a diameter
defined by separating lines 68, 69 above which portions 63 and 65 are yellow
gold, and
below which portion 67 is white gold.
Figure 11 is a plan view of a fifth example of an annular link 71 showing a
pattern of
regions on the surface of the link exhibiting different visual properties.
Figure 11 shows
another possibility in which annular link 71 has a yellow gold band 75, 76
along a
diameter of the link defining separating lines 77-80, above which, a pair of
curved portions
72, 73 are of white gold, and below which an arcuate portion of the link 71 is
also of white
gold.
Figure 12 is a schematic representation of a rope chain segment employing
annular links of
the type shown in Figure 6, the figure lined for the colors yellow gold and
white gold. The
rope chain 81 of Figure 12 is constructed from a continuous series of annular
links 21 as
shown in Figure 6. One side 23 of the annular link 21 is yellow gold, and the
other side 25
2 0 is white gold, and the white gold side of all links face the same
direction along the length
of the rope chain 81, as does the yellow gold side but in the opposite
direction.
Accordingly, the channel 10 will have a continuous length of white gold at,
and extending
outwardly from, the apex of the V-shaped channel 10, while the channel 12 will
display a
continuous color of yellow gold.
2 5 While the flat two-dimensional drawing of Figure 12 is lined accurately
with respect to the
two different colors yellow gold and white gold, it may appear at first glance
that a white
gold portion 25 is to the right and a yellow gold portion 23 is to the left at
some points
along channel 10, for example at the position of the top arrow 10 in Figure
12. However,
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47
when visualizing the three-dimensional aspect of the rope chain, and following
channel 10
mentally along the rope chain 81, in passing around the right side of the rope
chain 81
toward the rear along channel 10, the right portion of all of the annular
links 21 will be
viewed from a different angle from that shown in the two-dimensional drawing
of Figure
12.
That is, the rear side of each link to the right of the axis of rope chain 81
and shown as
yellow gold in Figure 12 is, in fact, white gold, and similarly, the rear side
of each white
gold colored surface 25 in Figure 12, as viewed from the other side is yellow
gold. The
rope chain 81 of Figure 12 thus imparts a very interesting and attractive
coloration for the
l0 rope chain 81 having alternate yellow gold and white gold portions viewable
from a
particular viewpoint, and yet the rope chain 81 displays the interesting
aspect of a
continuous yellow gold helical channel paralleling a white gold helical
channel.
Figure 13 is another embodiment of a rope chain 91 showing alternate helical
strands lined
to show the color yellow gold alternating with the color white gold, or a gold
material (33
in Figure 7) alternating with a silver material (35 in Figure 7). The yellow
gold/white gold
(or silver) pattern shown in Figure 13 for the rope chain 91 is the result of
assembling a
series of annular links 31 as shown in Figure 7. It will be appreciated from
the drawing of
Figure 13 that the links 31 that are perpendicular to the page and shown as a
yellow gold
color will have a white gold or silver color as viewed from the rear thereof.
Similarly, the
2 o white gold or silver colored links 31 shown perpendicular to the page in
Figure 13 are
yellow gold colored in the rear view thereof. Likewise, any link 31 having a
yellow gold
colored exposed surface to the right of the axis of rope chain 91 in Figure 13
will have a
white gold or silver color on its exposed surface on the left side of the
axis, and vice versa.
Accordingly, following along channel 10 for the entire length of the rope
chain 91, the
2 5 right side of the channel will be white gold or silver colored and the
left side will be
yellow gold colored. Similarly, following along channel 12, the left side will
be white gold
or silver and the right side will be yellow gold.
Thus, in the configuration of Figure 13, although all annular links 31 are
identical and
arranged in the same direction along the rope chain 91, nevertheless, the
visual appearance
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48
is such that an apparent yellow gold colored rope is intertwined with an
apparent white
gold or silver colored rope, lending an interesting alternately colored
appearance along the
rope chain 91.
Figure 14 is a rope chain 101 configured similar to that of Figure 13, but
with a number of
annular links 31 inserted in the series of links in reverse direction every
two twists of the
strands of the rope chain 101. The rope chain 101 in Figure 14 is thus
constructed of a
similar series of annular links 31 as shown in Figure 7, except that the
yellow gold and
white gold halves 33, 35 are arranged adjacent one another for a series of
three sets, and
then the yellow gold and white gold sides 33, 35 are reversed for the next
three sets. For
example, in Figure 14, a transition from a white gold colored half to a yellow
gold colored
half occurs at link 34 near the top of the segment of rope chain 101, while
the yellow gold
halves are adjacent one another from the bottom of Figure 14 up to point 36 at
which the
yellow gold and white gold sides are reversed. With this configuration,
another interesting
yellow gold/white gold attractive pattern is produced which has a repetitive
pattern along
the rope chain 101 as follows (y meaning yellow gold and w meaning white
gold):
y,w,y,y,w,y,w,w/y,w,y,y,w,y,w,w/, etc. Of course, the left and right views of
Figure 14
would show a transition between yellow gold and white gold at the points 34
and 36,
whereby, for example, in a view from the right of Figure 14 at link 34, to the
left of link 34
would be white gold and to the right of link 34 would be yellow gold.
2 0 Other attractive yellow gold/white gold patterns are possible when
employing the concepts
of the present invention, including, but not limited to: w,w,y,w,w,y or
w,w,w,y,w,w,w,y or
w,w,y,y,w,w,y,y, etc. Using other available gold colors, such as rose (r) and
green (g),
additional color patterns can be created, such as:
w,w,y,r,r,y,g,g,y,r,r,y,w,w.
It is to be understood that the described specific examples of color patterns
in a repeated
2 5 set are not to be taken as limiting. An appealing rope chain may be formed
by arranging
sets of different color patterns in any combination, i.e. such a rope chain
will have color
patterns that differ along the length of the rope chain set-to-set. For
example, a rope chain
may have the repetitive set pair y,w,y,y,w,y,w,w and y,y,w,w,y,y,w,w repeated
along the
chain producing the structure:
y,w,y,y,w,y,w,w/y,y,w,w,y,y,w,w//y,w,y,y,w,y,w,w/
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49
y,y,w,w,y,y,w,w//(etc.). Alternatively, a rope chain may have a non-repetitive
set pattern
with each set along the chain having a different color pattern producing, for
example, the
color scheme:
y,w,Y,Y~~'~'~Y~~'~'~~'~'/Y~Y~~'~'~~'~'~Y~Y~~'~'~~'~'/w,r,r,y,g,g,Y,w/
(etc.,all sets different). Combinations of a repeated set, repeated set pairs
or set triplets or
set quads etc., non-repetitive sets, or random sets of different color
patterns are also within
the scope of the present invention.
A visually pleasing rope chain construction can be created, as another
example, using the
link element 31 of Figure 7 to produce the rope chain appearance in Figure 13.
The Figure
13 pattern as described may extend for a length of one inch with each set
being repeated as
shown in Figure 13. The next one inch of rope chain may then comprise repeated
sets of
link elements of different colors, textures, or shapes, as desired, followed
by a one inch
length duplicating the first one inch segment. Such a finished rope chain will
show a
series of one inch segments having alternating visual properties.
After the assembly of a rope chain is completed, portions of the chain may be
selectively
rhodium coated to enhance the brilliance and luster of the coated part. In
Figure 13, for
example, after construction, the white gold halves 35 of each link element 31
(Figure 7)
may be coated with rhodium which brightens the white gold helix and increases
the
contrast between the rhodium coated helix and the yellow gold helix. To the
eye, this
increased contrast effect makes the yellow gold helix appear to be even more
yellow in
2 0 color.
If desired, the jewelry designer may choose to give the finished rope chain a
soft lusterless
appearance, i.e., instead of rhodium coating to increase reflectivity and
brilliance, the
finished rope chain may be mechanically or chemically treated so as to have a
sandblast,
matt, or frost like finish.
2 5 Another possibility with the present invention is the ability to assemble
virtually any color,
texture, or shape combination along the length of the rope chain not grouped
into patterns
correlated with the number of links elements in a set. That is, a
color/texture/shape
combination, repeated or not, may extend along any number of links and not be
bounded
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by the chosen number of links per set. One example of this is a rope chain
having color
patterns in groups of thirteen links, while a set for this particular rope
chain may comprise
eight links. Moreover, it is within the scope of the present invention to
construct a rope
chain with sets made up of different numbers of links, e.g., 4-link, 6-link,
and 8-link sets
5 used in the construction of the same rope chain.
Figures 15-17 show yet another combination of coloring for the rope chain 111.
Rope
chain 111 is also constructed of annular links 31 (Figure 7) along the entire
length thereof.
Rope chain 111 is of a six-link variety in which there are six links per set
along the series
of annular links. However, the annular links 31 are assembled with the colors
matching
l0 the colors of adjacent links 31 (i.e., all are in the same axial
orientation) for a complete set
of six along the chain, and then the links are flipped 180° to be
assembled in reverse axial
orientation for the next set, and so on. As a result, and since there are six
annular links 31
per set, rather than the alternately appearing yellow gold and white gold rope
strands
shown in Figure 13, the right side of rope chain 111 in Figure 15 is all of a
white gold
15 color, while the left side is all of a yellow gold color. It will therefore
be appreciated that
the view of Figure 15 is taken at the reversal transition point of each set,
wherein the edge
of the link 31 perpendicular to the page is white gold and all link surfaces
exposed to the
right of the axis are also white gold, while those link surfaces exposed to
the left of the
center are yellow gold. The view from the rear of Figure 15 would be similar.
That is,
2 0 what is shown as lined for the color white gold in Figure 1 S will also
appear as white gold,
and what is lined for the color yellow gold in Figure 15 will also appear as
yellow gold,
but the center links (perpendicular to the page) will be seen as yellow gold
from the rear.
From the description of Figure 15 above, it will be apparent that the view
from the left side
of Figure 15 will have an all yellow gold color appearance (Figure 16), while
the right side
2 5 view of Figure 15 will have an all white gold appearance (Figure 17).
The embodiment of Figures 15-17 are particularly attractive from the viewpoint
that, the
rope chain necklace or bracelet may, from one viewpoint, appear to be yellow
gold in
color, while from another viewpoint may appear to be white gold in color. From
other
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51
viewpoints, the rope chain 111 gives somewhat of a random coloring impression,
again
imparting beauty and exciting visual stimuli.
The embodiments of the invention shown in Figures 12-17 provide a basis for
appreciating
the virtually limitless design patterns that can be produced by arranging the
differently
colored, patterned, or textured annular links such as those shown in Figures 6-
11 in a rope
chain structure.
Further variations of color patterns are presented in Figures 18-20. Figures
18-20 illustrate
the possibility of manufacturing the annular links with either or both planar
surfaces
having different gold colored areas, shown on the link 120 of Figure 18
symbolically, as
l0 yellow (y), white (w), rose (r), and green (g) areas. The link 122 of
Figure 19 is lined for
the gold colors white, yellow, rose, and green for the respective regions 123-
126. Figure
20 shows an annular link 128 having areas 130 and 131 with variations in
color, in this
example yellow gold areas 130 and white gold areas 131.
Importantly, the different-appearing three embodiments shown in Figures 12-17
are all
constructed with the same mufti-colored, or mufti-textured annular links 21
and 31 shown
in Figures 6 and 7, respectively. Even further varieties are possible but not
shown.
For example, using the annular link coloring shown in Figure 7, a rope chain
may be
constructed using a six-link set, but reversing the direction of the yellow
gold and white
gold patterns every five links along the rope chain. This arrangement gives
yet a further
2 0 interesting and curious visual impression, since there is somewhat of an
overall repeated
pattern along the chain, but at any segment of the chain, the coloring appears
to be
somewhat random. On the other hand, following the channels of such an
arrangement,
each channel would show a link of white gold on both sides of the channel for
a distance,
followed by a length of yellow gold on both sides of the channel, followed by
another
2 5 length of white gold, etc.
Examples of a completed rope chain using the configurations for the annular
links 41, 51,
61, and 71 shown in Figures 8-11 are left to the artisan having the knowledge
of the
examples given in this specification to follow for guidance.
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52
Obviously, color and texture configurations other than those shown in Figures
6-11 and
18-20 are possible for the manufacture of the annular links, and these are
merely examples
of preferred visual property combinations which can produce striking results
in a finished
rope chain construction. Accordingly, it is to be understood that the patterns
shown in
Figures 6-11, the types of materials used, the coloring, surface texture,
surface patterns,
arrangement of groups and sets of links along the rope chain, reversed or not,
randomly
assembled or in strict accordance with a repeated pattern, and the like are
all contemplated
possibilities and are to be considered within the scope of the present
invention.
Figure 21 is a perspective view of a gapped link 132, similar to any one of
those depicted
in Figures 1, 6-11, 18, and 19, except that it has flat, but non-planar upper
and lower major
surfaces 133, 134. That is, a radial cross section taken anywhere along the
gapped link
132 will reveal a flat, or linear, upper and lower surface edge, and yet the
link 132 is
slightly skewed such that the upper and lower surfaces 133, 134 are slightly
helical, such
that the end faces 135, 136 at the gap are not in registration. The gap
dimensions are
maintained in accordance with the need to interlink the gapped links to form a
rope chain
with tightly interconnected link elements. The skewed nature of the gapped
link elements
making up the rope chain produces interesting visual effects, especially as to
reflected
light, since there will be no planar, i.e., mirror-like reflections. If
desired, only one of the
upper and lower surfaces 133, 134 may be made flat; the other, opposite, side
surface may
2 0 be rounded, concave, etched, notched, or configured to any desired shape
while
maintaining a generally annular link configuration.
Figures 22-26 show alternate configurations for the gapped links. The link 137
of Figure
22 is baguette shaped, the link 138 of Figure 23 is square shaped, the link
139 of Figure 24
is oval shaped, the link 140 of Figure 25 is diamond shaped, and the link 141
of Figure 26
2 5 is heart shaped. Any combination of annular, baguette, square, oval,
diamond, heart, or
other geometric shaped gapped links may be assembled in a virtually limitless
variety of
combinations to create interesting rope chain jewelry items in accordance with
the
concepts and methodology of the present invention. For example, a particularly
beautiful
rope chain design uses a combination of baguette and annular links along the
length of the
3 o chain.
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53
It will be understood that the surface colors, textures, patterns, and/or
shapes of the gapped
links 137-141 in Figures 22-26 may be as varied as those features of the
annular links
described herein and shown in Figures 6-21
While only certain embodiments have been set forth, alternative embodiments
and various
modifications will be apparent from the above description to those skilled in
the art. For
example, while the colors and precious metals used in the descriptions herein
are preferred
to be yellow, white, rose, and green gold, other colors and metals, or even
non-metals, can
be employed in the construction of the disclosed rope chain configurations.
Notable
alternate materials, for example, are rhodium (in various colors), silver, and
nickel, either
solid or plated, or the links may be enameled using any selectable colored or
clear enamel.
The examples herein of gapped links with a rectangular cross section are not
to be
considered limiting. Virtually any cross sectional configuration can be
produced for the
gapped links while maintaining an overall annular configuration, or other
configuration not
unlike the examples shown in Figures 22-26. An attractive rope chain, for
example, may
be formed using annular gapped links having a circular cross section, solid or
tubular,
resulting in a "soft feel" rope chain with brilliant light reflection
patterns. In this
connection, if desired, the interior peripheral edge of the links shown in
Figures 22-25 may
be circular, leaving the exterior peripheral edge as shown. These and other
alternatives are
considered equivalents and within the spirit and scope of the present
invention.
2 0 DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE SECOND EMBODIMENTS
Figure 1X is a plan view of an annular link element used in the construction
of jewelry
rope chains as known in the prior art. In general, Figures 1X-SX depict: a
conventional
rope chain arrangement (Figures 3X and 4X); a typical annular link element
(Figures 1X
and 2X) employed as a basic building element in the construction of the rope
chain; and a
2 5 number of loosely interconnected annular link elements (Figure SX) to
illustrate the
positional relationship of adjacent annular link elements along the rope
chain.
For the purposes of this description, the following definitions are provided.
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54
"Rope chain" is a series of sets of interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements which has
the appearance of a plurality of braided, or helically intertwined, mufti-
fiber strands of
hemp, flax, or the like.
"Standard" or "Ordinary" refers to the dimensional characteristics of annular
link elements
without major surface or edge variation and whose dimensions follow the
recommendations according to the aforementioned U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517, for
example, i.e. whose dimensions result in a tightly fitting series of link
elements having the
appearance of intertwining helical strands of rope.
l0 A "set" is the number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements making up a
structurally repeated pattern along the chain. In the accompanying drawings
and
associated text, a six-link set is used for purposes of ease of visual
presentation and
description. The preferred number of link elements in a set is eight.
A "group" is a number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements exhibiting
identical visual properties. The number of link elements in a group may be the
same or
different than the number of link elements in a set. Groups may be uniformly
or randomly
distributed along the rope chain.
A "link" is the basic building element (also referred herein as a "link
element"), a number
of which are assembled in series to form a rope chain. Link elements of the
prior art are
2 0 annular in shape with an open gap having a length slightly greater than
the width of the
annular link. In accordance with the present invention, a link element may
have a circular,
baguette, oval, diamond, rectangular, square, heart, or other geometrical
shape. Each is
provided with a gap at a selected position along the perimeter thereof thereby
maintaining
a generally C-shaped overall configuration. In such a generally C-shaped
overall
2 5 configuration, the inner periphery will be referred to herein as an
interior edge, and the
outer periphery will be referred to as an exterior edge. While the link
elements of a rope
chain are not necessarily annular, it is the preferred configuration for the
basic building
element of a rope chain, and for that reason an annular link element will be
used in most of
the examples shown and described herein.
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A "channel" is the path which the eye follows in passing along the rope chain
at the apex
of the V-shaped helical groove formed between the apparent intertwined rope
braids.
Hence, in the preferred embodiments described herein, the rope chain has the
appearance
of a pair of intertwined braids of ropes, and thus there exists two such
helical channels
5 offset from one another by one-half of the pitch of either helix.
A "visual property", as used herein, is a characteristic of an object which
presents a
particular visual image to the eye. Such characteristics include, but are not
limited to,
color, texture, pattern, reflectivity, design, or shape. Although shape is
also a physical
property of an object, in the art of jewelry making, it is often the physical
shapes which
10 impart beauty and delicateness to a fashion item.
"Color", as used herein, refers to the quality of the link element or portion
thereof with
respect to light reflected by it and visually perceived by the eye as a
particular hue,
saturation, and brightness of the reflected light. In most cases, the
different colors
exhibited by a link element or portions) thereof result from the use of
different materials
15 (white gold as differing from yellow gold as differing from rhodium as
differing from
enamel coatings of different hues, etc.
The "major surface" of a link element refers to the substantially flat or
planar upper and
lower facial surfaces of the link element. Such surface, although being
substantially planar,
nevertheless may have raised or depressed patterns therein, or may be notched,
gouged,
2 0 textured, or otherwise physically altered to present a desired pleasing
visual effect to the
observer. Additionally, the upper and lower facial surfaces need not be flat.
For example,
the link elements may be tubular, or otherwise circular in cross section, and
yet have the
uppermost and lowermost surface portions lying in respective parallel planes.
The "interior" and "exterior" edges of a link element are, respectively, the
inner and outer
2 5 peripheral sides which span between the upper and lower major surfaces of
a link element.
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56
"Link width" is defined as a distance, measured along either of the major
surfaces, between
a pair of parallel lines perpendicular to the major surfaces and tangent to,
respectively, the
interior and exterior edges.
"Link thickness" is defined as a distance between and perpendicular to the
planes of the
upper and lower major surfaces.
Referring now to Figures 1X and 2X, an annular link element 1X is shown to
have a
generally rectangular cross section (Figure 2X) and a gap 3X having sloping
edges, the
narrowest width of gap 3X being slightly larger than the thickness of the
annular link
element 1X.
While conventional rope chains are constructed using annular links having a
solid
rectangular cross section as shown in Figure 2X, variations with different
cross sectional
geometries are possible. Figures 2AX and 2BX depict two such variations. The
cross
section of tubular link lAX in Figure 2AX is rectangular and hollow (known
from U.S.
Patent No. 4,651,517). Another variation is shown in Figure 2BX in which the
tubular
link element 1BX has a hollow circular cross section (known from U.S. Patent
No.
5,537,812).
Figure 2CX is a view similar to that of Figure 2AX, except that the generally
rectangular
cross sectioned link element 1 CX does not have straight sides, but rather
sides of an
indeterminate shape.
2 0 Figure 2DX is a view similar to that of Figure 2BX, except that the
generally circular cross
sectioned link element 1 DX does not have smooth sides, but rather sides of an
indeterminate shape. This figure, and Figure 2CX are presented for
representing that the
two major surfaces and the interior and exterior edges of a link element can
take on any
surface shape or texture, not just those illustrated in the other Figures 6X-
45X.
2 5 All of the link element embodiments and variations of the present
invention illustrated in
Figures 6X-45X can be solid or hollow in cross section, and may have any
geometrical
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57
cross sectional configuration. A non-limiting solid rectangular cross section
is chosen as
exemplary in the accompanying drawings for illustrative purposes only.
Conventional rope chains, such as those shown in Figures 3X and 4X, are made
with a
systematic and repetitive interlinking of basic annular link elements 1X. The
annular link
element l X must meet certain dimensional requirements for the interlinking to
result in a
well-fitting rope chain. Such dimensions are known in the art and will vary
from a four-
link variety to a six-link variety to an eight-link variety, and so on.
Determining the proper
dimensions for the annular link element 1X and the gap 3X therein, depending
upon the
number of desired link elements to form a set of interlinked link elements,
can be readily
l0 understood by reference to the aforementioned U.S. patents, especially U.S.
Patent No.
4,651,517. As can be viewed in Figures 3X and 4X herein, the intertwined link
elements
1X of a segment of a conventional rope chain SX are shown in Figures 3X and 4X
in the
form of a six-link variety. In their assembled form, the series of link
elements 1X produce
the appearance of a first braid of rope 7X and a second braid of rope 8X, the
combination
of which results in a double intertwined helical appearance.
As best seen in Figures 3X and 4X, the apparent intertwining of a pair of rope
strands or
braids 7X and 8X results in a V-shaped groove between the braids at any
position along
the rope chain. The path along the apex of such V-shaped groove is referred to
herein as a
"channel", and since there are two apparent rope braids 7X and 8X, there are,
likewise, two
2 0 defined channels indicating Figure 3X by the directional arrows 1 OX and
12X. Channel
10X, along the length of the rope chain, defines a helix, as does channel 12X.
However,
the two channels never intersect one another, and are parallel to one another
along the
length of the rope chain separated axially by one half of the pitch of either
of the two
channels. In the prior art of Figures 3X and 4X, there is no visual difference
between
2 5 following along the two helical channels l OX and 12X, since the rope
chain is comprised
of a repetitive series of sets of link elements 1X, and all link elements have
the same visual
property (they are all of the same color, texture, and shape for example).
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Figure 3X is a side elevational view showing a section of a prior art rope
chain during the
manufacturing process, before removing a forming wire used to maintain proper
orientation of the series of link elements.
Further with respect to Figure 3X, in the construction of a rope chain using
annular link
elements 1X, it is necessary to maintain a tightly interlinking of the annular
link elements
until the entire rope chain is completed, and for that purpose, a pair of
support wires 6X
are positioned in the channels lOX and 12X and are kept in place until such
time as a
means of fixing the assembled link elements 1X together is completed. In U.S.
Patent
4,651,517, for example, after building up the link elements in the manner
described
1 o therein, to form the double helix chain, the link elements are held in the
desired
juxtaposition temporarily by a thin metal wire wrapped around the link
elements. Then,
solder is intermittently applied to every pair of adjacent link elements at
the external
periphery thereof. The wire is then removed and does not comprise a part of
the
completed rope chain.
Figure 4X is a front elevational view of the outward appearance of a jewelry
rope chain of
the prior art showing a uniform visual appearance for all link elements in the
chain for the
entire length thereof.
In Figure 4X, the distance denoted by numeral 9X encompasses the link elements
of a
"set" of link elements, and it will be noted that link elements 11X and 13X
lie in the same
2 0 plane, but are angularly displaced from one another along the link
elements of the rope
chain by 180°. That is, following the position of link element 11X
counterclockwise (as
seen from the top) and downwardly, it will be observed that each subsequent
link element
is angularly spaced at a constant 30° angle, and since there are six
link elements per set, a
180° turn of link element 11X downwardly along the rope chain will be
effectively rotated
2 5 180° to assume the position of link element 13X. As is clearly
visible in Figure 4X, a
series of sets of link elements 1X makes up the length of rope chain
illustrated.
For an eight-link "set" (not shown, but defining a preferred embodiment), each
subsequent
link element will be angularly spaced at a constant 30° angle.
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Figure SX is a perspective view of a set of loosely interconnected link
elements in an
expanded view to show the interlinking of the /ink elements to form a set of
link elements
in the series of link elements along the rope chain, as is known in the prior
art. The
drawing of Figure SX is copied from U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517 (Figure 8g
thereof), amd
shows a number of annular link elements A1 X-A6X, B 1 X and B2X, each with a
gap 3X
permitting the complex interlinking arrangement shown. A set of annular link
elements
A1X-A6X, when tightly assembled, results in the structured, repeated, pattern
shown in
Figure 4X with the annular link element A1X of a first set of link elements
lying in tb~e
same plane as the first annular link element B1X belonging to the next
adjacent set of
1o annular Link elements B1X-B6X (only link elements B1X and B2X shown).
The remaining figures to be described, Figures 6X-45X, illustrate examples of
a virtually
limitless number of variations of the design and construction features of link
element's that
may be assembled into a distinctively beautiful and unique rope chain having
appealing
visual properties.
It will be appreciated that a link element may exhibit multiple colors due to
a variety of
possible physical constructions. For example, as described in United States
Patent
6,209,306, entitled "Decorative Jewelry Rope Chain", a link element may
be of laminated construction, such that one major surface is of one material
or color and
the opposite major surface is of a different material or color. Additionally,
or alternatively,
2 0 each or both major surfaces may be divided into portions, each portion
exhibiting a color
different from its adjacent portion.
In Figure 6X, for example, the plan view of the annular link element 1 SX has,
on one
planar major facial surface thereof, a first portion 16X of a first color and
a second portion
17X of a different color. The link element 15X may be formed, for example, by
stamping
2 5 a flat sheet conshucted of two edge joined layers of different flat
materials, or of two ~edge-
joined layers of materials of different colors and/or textures and/or coatings
(such as by the
application of an enamel).
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In this connection, most of the remaining figures, Figures 7X-45X are not
lined for color.
However, it will be understood that all, or portions, of each of the link
elements to be
described hereinafter may be of a color selected from a variety of different
colors, and/or
may be made of a material selected from a variety of different materials. For
example, any
5 of the link elements described herein may have the entire surface, or
portions thereof, of
yellow gold, white gold, rose (pink) gold, green gold, silver, nickel, or
rhodium, either
solid, plated, or laminated; or such surfaces, or portions thereof, may be
enameled.
In some cases, the gapped link elements may be stamped from a multicolored
flat sheet,
striped with a number of alternately colored gold materials, or alternately
striped with
10 different materials such as gold and silver. Such a striped flat sheet may
be stamped to
form gapped link elements in different orientations relative to the stripe
pattern and
relative to the gap position, resulting in a variety of interesting colored
patterns in the
finished rope chain, yet all such link elements can be stamped from the same
striped sheet.
As previously mentioned, a major object of the invention is to reduce the
amount of
15 material making up the individual link elements to reduce manufacturing
costs, while not
detracting from the beauty and effective size (diameter) of the finished rope
chain.
Reducing material can be accomplished in many ways: by removing material from
or
forming edge depressions in the entire or portions of the exterior edge; by
removing
material from or forming edge depressions in the entire or portions of the
interior edge; by
2 0 removing material from or forming surface depressions in one or both major
link surfaces;
by forming openings in or through the major link surfaces; or otherwise
narrowing the
width of the entire or portions of the link elements. In some embodiments of
the
invention, part or all of a link element may have a link width larger than
standard but with
openings provided therein to result in a net reduction of material making up
the link
2 5 element.
The specific example shown in Figure 6X depicts a link element 15X in which
one half
16X of the link element is of one color and of one shape, and the other half
17X is of
another color and of another shape. In the first half 16X, the interior and
exterior edges
l6aX, l6bX are smooth, while for the second half 17X, the interior edge 17aX
is smooth,
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and the exterior edge l7bX has a repeated pattern of undulations or ripples.
In this sense,
the two link element portions, halves 16X and 17X, exhibit different visual
properties, as
to both color and shape.
The link element shown in Figure 6X, and those shown in many others of the
accompanying figures, has the shape and configuration of a solid standard size
annular link
element with portions removed (from undulated half 17X), and with other
portions intact
and undisturbed from a standard shape and configuration (as with standard size
half 16X).
A rope chain constructed from a series of link elements 15X as shown in Figure
6X is
visually more attractive than one made from standard link elements which have
no varying
l0 link width characteristics. That is, when a series of link elements 15X are
assembled into
a length of rope chain having the appearance of two intertwining helical
strands, the
appearance (visual properties) of one of the strands is different than the
appearance (visual
properties) of the other, adjacent, strand along the length of rope chain,
when viewed from
one side of the length of rope chain. Prior art rope chains constructed of
standard link
elements exhibit the same visual properties for all strands along the chain,
as viewed from
any direction. This is true even when the cross section of prior art link
elements is not
standard, for example according to U.S. Patent Number 5,185,995 to Dal Monte.
In accordance with a major feature of the present invention, the inner and/or
outer
periphery (i.e. the interior and exterior edges) of a link element is varied
in shape, so that
2 0 the resulting rope chain can attain distinctive and decorative
configurations and/or result in
substantially lower manufacturing costs. In Figure 7X, for example, the outer
periphery
22X of the link element 20X is undulated, and the resulting rope chain will
have a
decorative design as a result of this shaping. In particular, Figure 7X is a
plan view of a
link element 20X having a smooth interior edge 21X and a full undulated
exterior edge
2 5 22X. In addition to producing a unique and visually beautiful rope chain,
the link
variations shown in Figures 6X and 7X use less precious metal than an ordinary
annular
link configuration such as that shown in Figure 1X, since, preferably, the
maximum link
width of link element 20X is equal to standard link element width.
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Figure 8X is a plan view of a link element 25X having a crenelated interior
edge 26X and
an undulated exterior edge 28X, i.e., link element 25X has the shape and
configuration of a
solid standard size annular link element with portions removed from both the
interior edge
26X and the exterior edge 28X. Preferably, the effective link width, as
measured from the
innermost side of the interior edge 26X to the outermost side of the exterior
edge 28X, is
equal to standard link width. As compared to the link variation shown in
Figure 7X, the
crenels 27X have the desired effect of removing additional precious metal
regions from the
interior of the link to further reduce cost, without having any deleterious
structural or
visual effects in the finished rope chain product. From Figures 3X and 4X, it
will be
appreciated that no part of the interior edges of the individual link elements
are visible.
Only an outer annular portion of each link element is visible, so that notches
or crenels
27X may have a radial depth approximately equal to one half the width of the
annular link.
The allowed radial depth of the notches or crenels 27X is a function of the
dimensions and
configuration of each link element, and can be readily and easily determined
by a person of
ordinary skill in the art of rope chain manufacture.
Figure 9X is a plan view of a link element 30X having a smooth exterior edge
31X and a
crenelated interior edge 32X defined by spaced crenels 33X. The look and feel
of a rope
chain made with link elements 30X is identical to a conventional one made
without
interior crenelations. However, the weight and cost of such a rope chain will
be less.
2 0 Link thickness, as used herein, is defined as a distance between and
perpendicular to the
plane of the first and second major surfaces, and at least some of the link
elements in a
rope chain may have an irregular link thickness along the extent of the link
element.
Figures lOX-13X, 24X, 26X, 32X, 33X, and 38X-45X show link elements that
possess
irregular link thicknesses along the extent of the link elements and bear
surface
2 5 ornamentation on each link element that will cause a rope chain to have a
more decorative
design than the conventional rope chain and yet use less precious metal than a
standard
link element without such irregular link thickness.
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Figure 10X, for example, is a plan view of a link element 35X having smooth
exterior and
interior edges 36X, 37X, but with a groove, or raised center region, 40X along
a central
major surface of the link element. Link element 35X, like the link elements of
Figures
11X-13X, 24X, 26X, 32X, 38X-40X, and 42X-45X, have the shape and configuration
of a
solid standard annular link element having portions of one or both major
surfaces
removed. For the variation in which the numeral 40X represents a raised center
portion,
the border surfaces 38X,39X are smooth and planar, while the raised center
region 40 may
be serrated, textured, patterned, or diamond cut, as desired by the designer.
For the
variation in which the numeral 40X represents a groove, the groove 40X may be
formed
1 o during the stamping procedure, or it may be formed after stamping by a
diamond cutting
step or other procedure which removes a desired amount of precious metal
according to a
desired pattern, leaving planar border surfaces 38X,39X. Border surfaces
38X,39X may
be polished to create a glitter effect and to emphasize the groove design
pattern for either
variation.
Figure 11X is a plan view of a link element 45X having smooth exterior and
interior edges
46X, 47X with diamond cut or stamped depressions, or raised regions, 48X,49X
formed in
a major surface thereof adjacent the exterior and interior peripheral edges
46X, 47X,
leaving the central region SOX of a major surface of the link element 45X
planar. Like the
Figure l OX embodiment, the non-planar border regions 48X, 49X may be raised
relative to
2 0 the planar center region SOX and formed in a similar manner as the Figure
l OX
embodiment.
Figure 12X is a plan view of a link element SSX having smooth exterior and
interior edges
56X, 57X, but with a textured patterned groove, or raised region, 60X along a
central
major surface of the link element 55X, leaving planar border surfaces 56X,
57X. The
2 5 textured groove, or raised region, 60X may be formed during the stamping
procedure or
formed after stamping by an EDM or other mechanical or chemical material
remover
process.
Figure 13X is a plan view of a link element 65X having smooth exterior and
interior edges
66X, 67X with textured depressions, or raised regions, 68X, 69X formed in a
major
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64
surface thereof adjacent the exterior and interior edges 66X, 67X leaving the
central
portion 70X of a major surface of the link element 65X planar. Like the Figure
12X
embodiment, the non-planar border regions 68X, 69X may be raised relative to
the planar
center region 70X and formed in a similar manner as the Figure 12X embodiment.
Figure 14X is a plan view of a link element 75X that is segmented into two
parts. For ease
of presentation and illustration herein the terms "half' and "halves" will be
used to mean
"part" or "parts", a "part not necessarily being a "half'. In link element
75X, one half 76X
has a narrower annular width, and the other half 77X gradually increasing to a
wider
annular width at its middle 78X. The narrow half 76X is narrower than standard
link
1 o elements to reduce the amount of material used, while the wider half 77X
may be, at its
middle 78X, of standard width or greater than standard width. If the maximum
width of
the wider half 77X is standard, since the finished rope chain is "twisted,"
the effective
diameter of the chain is the same as if all links were of standard width, but
with the
appearance of a large diameter rope strand braided with a small diameter rope
strand.
In this connection, in the variations of link elements where one half is
larger than the other
half, such as those shown in Figures 14X-19X, and 35X-37X, a rope chain made
from
such link elements will have the appearance of a larger diameter rope strand
braided with a
smaller diameter rope strand.
Again, reducing the amount of precious metal in the manufacture of such gapped
links, as
2 0 in Figure 14X, reduces cost while actually enhancing the aesthetic
character of the finished
rope chain.
On the other hand, the maximum width of wider width half 77X may be larger
than
standard, whereby a, rope chain made of link elements 75X will have an
effective diameter
larger than standard, and yet the net amount of precious metal will be the
same as a smaller
2 5 diameter chain due to the offset in weight attributed to the less than
standard width half
76X.
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If size and appearance is more important than cost, rather than having the net
amount of
gold less than standard for the link element 75X shown in Figure 14X, the
right side 76X
may be of standard link width, making the left side 75X of a larger than
standard size.
Again, the general overall, effective, diameter of the finished rope chain
will be the same
5 as if all link elements were of a constant link width equal to the maximum
link width of
the left side 77X.
It will thus be understood that, for all of the link elements described herein
in which
segments of a link element have different link widths, either the relatively
smaller or
relatively larger, segment may be of standard size.
10 Figure 15X is a plan view of a link element 85X that is segmented into two
halves, one
half 86X having a narrower than normal annular width, and the other half 87X
having a
relatively wider annular width, the width of the wider segment 87X being non-
linear so as
to narrow down to the width of the narrow half segment 86X at their junction
89X.
Comparing Figures 14X and 15X, in a finished length of rope chain, the link
75X has the
15 features of producing a more delicate appearance due to the relatively
narrower helix it
will form, and reducing more precious metal than that of Figure 15X. On the
other hand, a
length of rope chain made from the link 85X will have more body due to the
relatively
wider helix it will form.
Figure 16X is a plan view of a link element 95X that is segmented into two
halves, one
2 0 half 96X having a narrower annular width, and the other half 97X having a
relatively wider
annular width, the wider segment 97X having a stamped or formed opening 98X
therein to
define a framed wider segment portion transitioning with the narrower width
portion 96X
at junction 99X. This figure illustrates the possibility of combining
different shapes and
different materials, since the open wider half 97X is lined for one color,
while the solid
2 5 narrower half 96X is lined for another color.
Figure 17X is a plan view of a link element l OSX that is segmented into two
halves, one
half 106X having a narrow annulax width, and the other half 107X having a
relatively
wider annular width joining the narrower half 106X at junction 110X. One half
or any
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66
portion of the wider segment 107X has an opening 108X stamped or formed
therein, and
the other, closed, portion 109X is formed or filled with a different material
or differently
colored material.
Figure 18X is a plan view of a link element 115X that is segmented into two
halves, one
half 116X having a narrower annular width, and the other half 117X having a
relatively
wider annular width. Preferably, the wider half 117X is largely open with
tendril-like
filigree filaments 119X bridging across the opening 118X: Filaments 119X may
be
formed during the stamping process or attached after stamping. Alternatively,
the wider
half 117X may be solid with an embossed or engraved design, such as that
shown, formed
on the major surface thereof. If the wider half 117X is stamped, the filaments
119X will
have a significantly thicker appearance than that shown.
Figure 19X is a plan view of a link element 125X that is segmented into two
halves, one
half 126X having a narrower annular width, and the other half 127X having a
relatively
wider annular width, a repeating symbol 129X being punched, stamped, or
otherwise
formed, or embossed, or engraved in the major surface 128X of the wider
segment 127X.
Figure 20X is a plan view of a link element 131X similar to that shown in
Figure 9X, but
with one half 132X of the link element 131X having an undulated exterior edge
133X and
no interior crenels.
Figure 21X is a plan view of a link element 134X similar to that shown in
Figure 9X with
2 0 only one side 136X having a crenelated interior edge 137X, and with the
other half 135X
having smooth interior and exterior edges.
Figure 22X is a plan view of a link element 138X similar to that shown in
Figure 1X, but
with a double bumped protruding projection 142X on the exterior edge thereof
opposite
the position of the gap 141X in the link 138X between the two halves 139X,
140X. The
two projecting bumps 143X, 144X define a depression 145X. The link width of
the arms
of the two halves 139X, 140X is preferably narrower than standard. If the
entire annular
link element 138X had a less-than-standard width, the finished rope chain
would be very
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67
loosely interconnected and unattractive. The purpose of the double bumped
projection
142X is to simulate, during the assembly process, a link element of
appropriate, i.e.
standard, annular width at depression 145X. Since the looseness or tightness
of the
finished rope chain product is dependent, among other factors, upon the width
of the link
at the location opposite the gap, employing the reduced material design for
the link
element 138X as shown will result in a perfectly formed rope chain with
tightly
interconnected links having the same flexibility as if the links were each
made with a
standard annular width in its entirety. This arrangement thus reduces material
by a
reduced annular width and by using fewer link elements per unit length of rope
chain,
making the chain to appear longer than the standard rope chain.
The purpose for the two spaced bumps 143X, 144X is to affect the appearance of
the
channels between rope strands of a finished rope chain. Due to the spaced
bumps 143X,
144X, the rope chain will display more precious metal (e.g., gold) in the
channels between
strands of the finished rope chain. As to construction concerns, the interior
edge of a like
adjacent link element 138X will fit perfectly within the depression 145X, and
the rope
chain will have high structural integrity due to the width of the link element
138X between
the interior edge 146X and the depression 145X being of standard dimension.
If desired, the arms 139X,140X of link element 138X may be of standard width,
and the
rear edge projection 142X will then be of greater than standard width. In such
a case, the
2 0 gap 141X will necessarily have to be widened to accommodate the projection
142X of an
interconnected link since such projection passes through the open gap 141X at
an angle so
as to have the major surfaces of adjacent link elements in surface contact.
One advantage
of this variation is that fewer link elements are necessary per unit length of
rope chain.
Figure 23X is a plan view of a link element 127X similar to that shown in
Figure 22X, but
2 5 with an opening 128X in the projection 129X, serving to reduce the amount
of precious
metal in the finished rope chain and to add a degree of delicateness.
An alternative variation, not shown, the double bump projection 142X of
Figures 22X and
23X may be disposed on the interior edge of a link element, leaving the
exterior edge
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68
smooth. The structure of the finished rope chain will be just as tightly
interlinked, but the
diameter of the finished rope chain will be equal to the diameter of a rope
chain made with
all standard annular link elements. Such a jewelry item will have all the same
visual
properties and size dimensions, yet less precious metal is needed, saving
manufacturing
Costs.
Figures 24X-27AX show alternate configurations for the gapped link elements
relative to
the typical annular configuration. The link element of Figure 24X is baguette
shaped, that
of Figure 25X is square shaped, that of Figure 26X is oval shaped, that of
Figure 27X is
diamond shaped, and that of Figure 27AX is heart shaped. Any combination of
annular,
baguette, square, oval, diamond, heart, or other geometric shaped gapped link
elements
may be assembled in a virtually limitless variety of combinations to create
interesting rope
chain jewelry items in accordance with the concepts and methodology of the
present
invention. For example, a particularly beautiful rope chain design uses a
combination of
baguette and annular link elements along the length of the chain.
More specifically, Figure 24X is a plan view of a link element 147X similar to
that shown
in Figure 11X, but having a generally baguette configuration and having a
smooth interior
edge 148X, a smooth exterior edge 149X, and depressions, or raised regions,
150X
displaying a visual property other than planar. Preferably, the depressions or
raised
regions 150X are areas where material has been removed, leaving a central
major surface
2 0 region 151X planar.
Figure 25X is a plan view of a link element 152X similar to that shown in
Figure 9X, but
with a generally square configuration and having a smooth exterior edge 153X
and a
crenelated interior edge 154X defined by crenels 155X.
Figure 26X is a plan view of a link element 156X similar to that shown in
Figure 10X, but
2 5 having a generally oval configuration and having a smooth interior edge
157X, a smooth
exterior edge 159X, and a groove, or raised region, 161X displaying a visual
property other
than planar. Preferably, the groove or region 161X is where material has been
removed,
leaving inner and outer planar surfaces 163X.
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Figure 27X is a plan view of a link element 165X similar to that shown in
Figure 6X, but
the interior edge 166X is smooth (non-shaped) having the general configuration
of a
diamond, with one half 167X of the link element 165X having a smooth exterior
edge
168X and the other half 169X having an undulated exterior edge 170X.
Figure 27AX is a plan view of a link element 171 X similar to that shown in
Figures 9X
and 25X, but with a generally heart shaped configuration and having a smooth
exterior
edge 172X and a crenelated interior edge 173X defined by crenels 174X. The
amount of
precious metal removed at the location of the crenels 174X, together with that
removed at
the cusp 175X at the top as shown in Figure 27AX, is preferably greater than
the material
added to form the rounded tops on either side of the cusp 175X. The net
decrease in
material results in a less expensive link element while creating a beautiful
and symbolic
rope chain design.
Figure 28X shows a link element 180X in which an arcuate concave cut 184X,
185X is
made in each side 181X, 182X, respectively. In the complete rope chain
constructed of a
series of link elements 180X, a helical groove can be seen on top of each
simulated helical
strand (such as strands 7X and 8X in Figure 3X). The helical groove divides
the helix in
two, imparting to the rope chain the appearance of having four helixes instead
of two using
standard link elements such as that shown in Figure 1X.
Figure 28AX is a partial plan view of a link element 180AX which is a
variation of the
2 0 link element 180X of Figure 28X. In Figure 28AX, the arcuate concave cut
185AX is
stepped. This creates an interesting multi-faceted helix along one of the
intertwining rope
strands, which is especially attractive, especially when the flat stepped
surfaces are
rhodium coated. If both sides of link element 180AX are concave and stepped as
shown, a
helical groove can be seen on top of each simulated helical rope strand (such
as strands 7X
2 5 and 8X in Figure 3X).
Figure 29X shows a link element 190X having a smooth interior edge 191X and a
crenelated exterior edge 192X. The annular width of each wide portion 193X,
195X is of
standard dimension, while major portions of the exterior edge 192X are removed
to
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produce long crenels 194X. Wide rear portion 195X abuts the interior edge of
an adjacent
link in the series so as to produce a tightly interlinked rope chain. Here,
significant
precious metal is removed, and yet the effective overall diameter of the
finished rope chain
appears to be of standard diameter with a number of interesting looking
helical ribs (due to
5 the wide portions 193X) along the length of the chain.
Figure 30X shows a link element 200X similar to that of Figure 28X, but with
flat, rather
than concave, cutouts 203X, 204X on the sides 201X, 202X. As a result, the
finished
rope chain has the appearance of flat helixes alternating with convex helixes
along the
chain. This variation gives the effect of a diamond cut being made after the
rope chain is
l0 assembled. By employing precut link elements, the time and expense of a
complex
diamond cutting process after a rope chain is fully assembled is avoided.
Additionally, the
precious metal savings is controlled using precut link elements, while
collecting and
reprocessing shavings from a diamond cutting process has obvious waste and
high labor
cost disadvantages.
15 An improvement in the appeal and beauty of a rope chain made with link
elements 201X
in Figure 30X is achieved by constructing the link element to have two
separate side
halves 201X and 202X of different colors/materials connected at the dashed
line 205X.
For example, in Figure 30X, the left half 201X may be made of white gold, the
right half
202X of yellow gold, and the straight cutout 204X may be rhodium coated.
2 0 Figure 31X shows a link element 210X having smooth exterior and interior
edges 211X,
212X, the annular width 213X of which is less than standard. By combining link
element
210X with standard link elements, such as that shown in Figure 1X, or with
link elements
having an enlarged (equal or greater than standard) rear annular width, such
as that shown
in Figures 22X and 23X, a tightly, or reasonably tightly, formed rope chain
results. Both
2 5 narrow and wider links have the same inner diameter measured at the
location of the gap
3X (Figure 1X). When placed together, the interior openings in the center of
the link
elements 210X will line up perfectly. The narrower link 210X will be covered
by the
standard link 1X, saving precious metal. For example, links 210X may alternate
with links
of any other design or shape such as those shown in the accompanying figures,
or sets of
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links 210X may be assembled alternately with sets of other such links. In any
event,
employing link elements 210X in a rope chain will reduce the amount of
precious metal
used.
It will be understood that, when link elements having edge designs or
patterns, such as
those shown in Figures 16X-19X and 34X-36X, are assembled, they should not be
placed
against one another. Otherwise, the designs or patterns will be covered up by
adjacent link
elements. Link elements 210X are perfectly suited for spacing out the
aforementioned link
elements having edge designs or patterns.
Figures 32X and 33X show plan and side elevational views of a link element
220X with
notches 224X along the exterior edge 221X. When viewed alone, the link element
220X
looks incomplete, but when two of the same link elements are viewed together,
the notches
224X are covered by the other link. This saves on the use of precious metal,
which in turn,
reduces cost of this type of rope chain. The notches, or depressions 224X are
strategically
spaced around the periphery of the link such that they will be hidden from
view in a finally
assembled rope chain. Due to the overlapping of links, only areas 223X between
notches
will be visible. The particular pattern of notches may be empirically
determined by
assembling standard links and making regions that are visible and thus not to
be removed.
Figure 34X shows a link element 230X having a side 231X of a first material
and an
opening 234X therein, and a side 232X of narrow annular width with undulations
235X
2 0 and of a second material. This example combines material differences,
annular width
differences, and material removal pattern differences in the two sides 231X,
232X.
The link element 240X of Figure 35X has a first side 241X made of a first
material and
having arcuate openings 243X therein separated by a solid annular segment 244X
made of
a second material, the side 241X being of standard annular width. The second
side 242X
2 5 is of a third material and of a narrowed annular width 245X.
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Figure 36X shows a link element 250X having a side 251X of a first material
and with a
plurality of spaced differently shaped openings 254X. The other side 252X is
made of a
second material and has a narrower-than-standard annular width 255X.
Figure 37X shows a link element 260X having a side 261X of a first material
and of
standard configuration, i.e., as an annular segment. The other side 262X is
made of a
second material and has a flat edge 263X. When a number of links 260X are
assembled
into a rope chain, one of the helical strands will be standard, and the other
helical strand
will have all of the flat edges 263X of the link elements lying in a helix
following the helix
formed by the link half 262X.
After a rope chain is formed using link elements having a shape as shown in
Figure 37X,
the entire right half 262X, for example of white gold, or only the flat edges
263X may be
rhodium coated (or coated with other metallic coatings or with enamel). For
example, if
the left side 261X of link element 260X were made of yellow gold, and the
right side was
made of white gold, only the flat edge 263X of the white gold side 262X may be
rhodium
coated. This results in a very unique rope chain in which one helical rope
strand is yellow
gold along the entire length of the chain, and the other helical rope strand
is white gold
with a brilliant and shiny center. As shown in Figure 37X, a substantial part
of the white
gold rope strand will exhibit the shiny rhodium finish. By making the flat
edge 263X
shorter, a more delicate looking rope chain results, with the appearance of
tiny flashes of
2 o brilliance evident as the rope chain is moved relative to a light source.
Such a rope chain
design and appearance cannot be manufactured using standard annular link
elements
throughout and then diamond cutting an edge on the finished chain, since the
diamond
cutting process will cut both helical strands, not just one.
Figure 38X is a partial side elevational view of a link element 270X in which
one or both
of the textured major surfaces 271X, 272X are serrated, or knurled. The
maximum link
thickness, including the tips of the knurls, equals the thickness of a
standard annular link
element, thereby reducing the amount of precious metal used in the manufacture
of the link
element.
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Figure 39X is a partial side elevational view of a link element 273X in which
one or both
of the textured major surfaces 274X,275X have connected angled plate-like
segments
producing a saw-toothed profile. Again, the maximum thickness, including the
tips of the
saw-toothed plates, equals the thickness of a standard annular link element,
thereby
reducing the amount of precious metal used in the manufacture of the link
element.
Figure 40X is a partial side elevational view of a Iink element 276X of
standard thickness,
in which one or both of the textured major surfaces 277X,278X have V-shaped
grooves
therein, serving to reduce the amount of precious metal used in the
manufacture of the link
element.
Figures 41 X-44X depict, in partial elevational and full plan views, link
elements having
one or both major surfaces and/or one or both of the interior and exterior
edges serrated, or
knurled. The link element 279X, for example possesses smooth upper and lower
major
surfaces 280X,281X and a serrated, scored, or knurled, interior or exterior
edge 282X.
Link element 283X has both major surfaces 284X, 285X serrated, scored, or
knurled, as
well as the internal or exterior edge 286X. Link element 287X has planar
smooth exterior
and interior edges 288X,289X, and a serrated, scored, or knurled, upper or
lower major
surface 290X. The link element 291X has a serrated, scored, or knurled,
exterior edge
292X, a smooth interior edge 293X, and a serrated, scored, or knurled, upper
or lower
maj or surface 294X.
2 0 For convenience of presentation, the major surfaces and/or interior and
exterior edges
shown in Figures 41X-44X are shown as serrated, or knurled. It is to be
understood,
however, that these surfaces may have physical surface appearances other than
serrated,
scored, or knurled, such as textured, patterned, sandblasted, etched, shaped,
polished,
matted, frosted, diamond cut, or otherwise mechanically deformed.
2 5 In addition to presenting a softer visual appearance to a completed rope
chain, combining
serrated, scored, or knurled, link elements selected from those shown in
Figures 41X-44X
with any of the other link element variations shown and described herein
creates unusual
and attractive jewelry items.
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Additionally, it is known to diamond cut the edges of a completed rope chain
and coat
with rhodium (or other material) the flattened surfaces created by the diamond
cutting
process. By constructing a rope chain using, in part or in whole, serrated,
scored, or
knurled, link elements, and subsequently rhodium coating diamond cut surfaces,
a
dramatic increase in contrast is seen due to the softer yellow gold color of
the serrated,
scored, or knurled portions and the mirror-like finish of the coated diamond
cut portions of
the chain.
Figure 45X is a partial plan view of a link element 295X having portions 297X
of its major
surface smooth and portions 296X serrated, scored, or knurled. This figure is
presented to
show the possibility that any portion of a link element may be serrated,
scored, or knurled,
and such portion may, but need not, span the entire link width or span the
entire extent of
the link element. Similarly, any color, texture, or pattern on a major
surface, or on the
interior or exterior edges, of a link element may purposely be limited to only
a portion
thereof at the discretion of the rope chain designer/manufacturer.
As has been suggested by the various embodiments and variations of the
invention
presented herein, the flexibility of design, appearance, and feel of a rope
chain
manufactured using the link elements shown and described can stimulate a
myriad of
possibilities. These attributes of a completed rope chain can be unique with
the present
invention. Creating similar attributes using prior art techniques would not be
considered
2 0 by the person of ordinary skill in the art, since all attempts to
similarly shape, color,
texture, or pattern a rope chain after it is completed would not be practical.
The
uniqueness of a rope chain employing the link elements of the present
invention is made
possible by the provision of pre-formed, pre-shaped, or otherwise pre-
processed individual
link elements. Exclusive finished rope chain attributes made possible with the
present
2 5 invention cannot be duplicated by applying post-processing steps, whether
a single type
link element is used throughout the length of the rope chain, or multiple
types of link
elements are assembled in a particular or random order.
To illustrate the great extent to which different visual impressions are made
possible with
the invention, the individual visual properties of different link element
types can be
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appreciated in the same rope chain by assembling combinations of different
link element
types. Considering only four of the types of link elements depicted in the
accompanying
drawing, Figures 1X, 28X, 30X, and 37X, a mix of link elements of any desired
order can
be used to create a rope chain design which cannot be duplicated by prior art
methods. For
5 example, if a length of rope chain comprises link elements of Figures 28X
and an adjacent
length of rope chain comprises link elements of Figure 30X, the notched edges
184X,
185X, 203X, 204X form a continuous "apparent" helix. Advantageously, however
the
light reflecting off the concave notches 184X, 185X is visually different from
the light
reflecting off the flat notches 203X, 204X, especially if optionally rhodium
coated.
10 Obtaining this interesting visual effect after a rope chain made with
conventional
"standard" annular links is practically impossible, since any diamond cutting
of the
finished chain would be consistent along the entire length of the chain.
Similarly, another visually pleasing rope chain can be manufactured by
assembling a chain
length, e.g. one inch, of link elements of the Figure 30X type adjacent a
length of
15 assembled link elements of the Figure 37X type. In this variation, one of
the helixes along
the length of the chain will be continuous, and the other helix will be
intermittent.
For two other examples of the unique and visually interesting effects
achievable using the
concepts of the present invention, reference is made to Figures 46X and 47X.
As suggested herein, any visual property, as defined herein, may be combined
with any one
2 0 or more other visual properties in the manufacture of the various link
elements making up
the completed rope chain.
Figure 46X is an example of a length of rope chain SAX constructed using any
of the link
elements described herein in which the links are segmented into large and
small width
segments. The specific variation shown in Figure 46X uses link element 75X
(Figure
2 5 14X) or 85X (Figure 15X) where the narrow side 76X or 86X is made of a
different
material or is of a different color than that of the wider side 77X or 87X.
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The link elements are selected and assembled so that link elements 1DX have a
white gold
wide side 77X or 87X and a yellow gold narrow side 76X or 86X. Link elements
lEX
have a yellow gold wide side 77X or 87X and a white gold narrow side 76X or
86X. Thus,
strand 7AX has a smaller diameter rope strand appearance, and strand 8AX has a
larger
diameter rope strand appearance. Along channel lOAX, the smaller helical
strand 7AX is
on the left and the larger helical strand 8AX is on the right. The opposite
location of the
larger and smaller helical strands is true for channel 12AX. With this choice
and
arrangement of link elements, each rope strand 7AX and 8AX alternate yellow
and gold
materials along their respective lengths. The size difference for the two
helixes are evident
by reference to the two dashed lines "SX" on either side of the rope chain SAX
illustrated
in Figure 46X.
Figure 47X shows a length of rope chain SBX constructed with link elements
260X shown
in Figure 37X mixed with similar link elements 260AX, the latter being
identical to link
elements 260X except that the yellow and white gold materials are switched.
As seen in Figure 47X, rope strand 7BX alternates white and yellow along its
length and
has a standard annular link element appearance. On the other hand, rope strand
8BX
alternates white and yellow along its length, but each link element along the
strand has a
flat side 263X (white gold side) and 263AX (yellow gold side) creating a
single helix
within only one of the standard rope chain strands 8BX.
2 0 Along channel l OBX, a standard helical rope strand 7BX lies on the left
of the channel,
and a helical rope strand 8BX with a compound helical series of flat surfaces
lies on the
right. The opposite is seen left and right along channel 12BX.
It was mentioned above that certain prior art, e.g. U.S. Patent Nos. 5,425,228
and
5,285,625, shows link configurations which reveal flattened sides, the latter
patent
2 5 showing the effects of such flattened sides in Figure SX thereof. However,
neither of these
patents teach constructing a rope chain which has two visually different
helixes. The
present invention teaches that employing link elements having particular
visual
appearances, and assembling them in accordance with a particular method of
linking, will
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77
advantageously result in one helix having a different visual appearance than
that of the
other helix. The result of applying the particular method is illustrated in
the completed
rope chains of Figures 46X and 47X, already described. Details of the
particular method
used to create helixes of differing visual appearances in the same rope chain
jewelry piece
are presented below having reference to Figures 48AX-DX and 49AX-DX.
In Figures 48AX-DX, a number of identical link elements are interconnected in
a special
way, each link element 301X-304X comprising a standard segment half 301AX-
304AX
and serrated segment half 301BX-304BX. Both major surfaces and interior and
exterior
edges of segments 301BX-304BX are serrated so as to make the two halves of
each link
notably different in visual appearance.
Also, although a six or eight link set is preferred in the construction of a
rope chain, only a
four link set is shown in Figures 48AX-DX for convenience of drawing and
simplification
of description. Additionally, in the following description, it will be
understood that each
link element has a gap GX without having to complicate the drawing to show
each gap of
each link element. Extrapolating the method of assembling the links to a six
and eight link
set will be clear to a person of ordinary skill in the art.
As will be demonstrated, the relative orientation of the links forming the
rope chain is
important to achieve the desired results.
In Figure 48AX, link 301X is initially oriented so that its gap GX faces a
predetermined
direction, e.g., facing generally upwardly, with the standard annular link
segment 301AX
on the right (as viewed on the page) and the serrated annular link segment
301BX on the
left.
The second link 302X of the series is then passed through the gap of link
301X, with the
gap of link 302X facing downwardly at about 180° relative to the gap of
link 301X, as
2 5 shown in Figure 48BX. It should be observed that, before placement, the
second link
302X is either rotated 180° and then flipped horizontally, or not
rotated but flipped
vertically relative to the orientation of link 301X, so as to orient the
standard and serrated
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78
segments 302AX and 302BX on the same side of the assembly as segments 301AX
and
301BX, respectively.
Links 301X and 302X are then juxtaposed and intertwined so that they lay
against each
other, with the outer periphery of the link 302X lying against the inner
periphery of link
301X, to the greatest extent possible, thereby creating a relatively large
central opening
305X within the pair of intertwined and abutting annular links 301X, 302X. The
plane of
link 301X lies parallel to the plane of the paper, and the plane of link 302X
is slightly
skewed from the plane of link 301X.
The gap GX of the third link 303X is then passed through the gap GX of link
302X and
l0 over the interior edge of link 301X and laid angularly against links 301X
and 302X. The
gap GX of link 303X has the same orientation as the gap GX of link 301X, and
the
segments 303AX and 303BX are oriented the same as link segments 301AX and
301BX,
respectively, as shown in Figure 48CX. The plane of link 303X is more greatly
skewed
than links 301X and 302X. A central opening 307X still remains within the now
three
intertwined links 301X, 302X, and 303X. The plane of each of the links differs
from each
other 180° divided by the number of links in a set.
As seen in Figure 48DX, the gap GX of a fourth link 304X is passed over links
301X,
302X, and 303X, through the center opening 307X (Figure 48CX), and thereby
envelopes
links 301X, 302X, and 303X. The gap GX of link 304X is disposed in the same
2 0 orientation as the gap GX of link 302X. The link segments 304AX and 304BX
are
oriented the same as link segments 302AX and 302BX, respectively, as shown in
Figure
48DX. Link 304X is then laid against the other links 301X-303X, and its plane
lies at
approximately the same angle from the plane of link 303X as that between the
other
adjacent links.
2 5 Extrapolating the above assembly procedures to a six or eight link set,
and repeating the
procedure for adjacent sets of links, produces a very beautiful rope chain
jewelry piece
with an apparent pair of differently designed rope strands. That is, one of
the intertwined
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helixes has the visual appearance of a standard rope chain helix, and the
other helix
exhibits serrations on all of its visible surfaces.
In Figures 49AX-DX, a number of identical link elements are interconnected in
a special
way, each link element 401X-404X comprising an annular yellow gold segment
half
401AX-404AX, and an annular white gold segment half 401BX-404BX with a portion
cut
away defining a single planar side 401 CX-404CX. In this variation, the links
have
different colored segments in addition to having differently shaped segments
to make the
two halves of each link, and each helix of the completed rope chain, notably
different in
visual appearance.
The description of the assembly procedure for Figures 49AX-DX is the same as
that for
Figures 48AX-DX, except that, in the resultant completed rope chain, one of
the
intertwined helixes has the visual appearance of a standard yellow gold
colored rope chain
helix, and the other helix has the visual appearance of a white gold helix
with a helix of
angularly changing planar portions running through the middle of the white
gold helix.
The planar helix visual effect may be enhanced by either diamond cutting the
surface
401 CX-404CX and/or rhodium coating such planar surface 401 CX-404CX. Again in
this
variation, the links have different colored segments in addition to having
differently
shaped segments to make the two halves of each link, and each helix of the
completed rope
chain, notably different in visual appearance.
2 0 The embodiments of the invention shown in Figures 6X-49X provide a basis
for
appreciating the virtually limitless number of configurations and shape and
design patterns
that can be produced in a rope chain structure by employing and creatively
arranging the
differently colored, patterned, textured, and/or shaped link elements such as
those depicted
in Figures 6X-49X. Further variations and combinations of color patterns,
textures,
2 5 shapes, and configurations are possible and presumed to be within the
teaching of the
present invention.
Obviously, color, shape, texture, and overall configurations other than those
shown in
Figures 6X-49X are possible for the manufacture of the link elements, and
these are
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merely examples of preferred visual property combinations which can produce
striking
results in a finished rope chain construction. For example, an interesting
variation of an
undulated shaped edge would be a scalloped edge. Accordingly, it is to be
understood that
the shape and design patterns shown in Figures 6X-49X, the types of materials
used, the
5 coloring, surface texture, surface patterns, arrangement of groups and sets
of link elements
along the rope chain, reversed or not, randomly assembled or in strict
accordance with a
repeated pattern, and the like are all contemplated possibilities and are to
be considered
within the scope of the present invention.
It will be understood that the surface colors, textures, patterns, and/or
shapes of the gapped
l0 link elements 147X, 152X, 156X, 165X in Figures 24X-27AX may be as varied
as those
features of the annular link elements described herein and shown in Figures 6X-
23X and
28X-49X.
While only certain embodiments have been set forth, alternative embodiments
and various
modifications will be apparent from the above description to those skilled in
the art. For
15 example, while the colors and precious metals used in the descriptions
herein are preferred
to be yellow, white, rose, and green gold, other colors and metals, or even
non-metals, can
be employed in the construction of the disclosed rope chain configurations.
Notable
alternate materials, for example, are rhodium (in various colors), silver, and
nickel, either
solid or plated. Colored coatings may also be applied, such as enamel or
powder coating.
2 0 Several references to rhodium coating have been made in this description.
It is to be
understood that virtually any part of a finished rope chain, constructed from
any of the link
elements shown in Figures 6X-49X can be rhodium coated, or coated with any
other
preferred material or substance. Alternatively, if a rope chain is made
without the
application of heat to weld, or otherwise attach, adjacent link elements
together, rhodium
2 5 (or other material or substance) coating can be applied to the individual
link elements prior
to assembly, saving much labor expense which would otherwise be required with
post
assembly coating processes.
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In the examples herein showing segmented link elements with one side having
different
physical characteristics than the other side, the drawings and accompanying
text referred to
the transition being opposite the placement of the gap. It is within the scope
of the present
invention to provide segmented regions having different physical
characteristics or
properties as described herein placed in other positions along the extent of
the link
elements. One example is providing a dividing line horizontally positioned in
any of
Figures 6X-45X. These and other alternatives are considered equivalents and
within the
spirit and scope of the present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE THIRD EMBODIMENTS
For the purposes of this description, the following definitions are provided.
"Rope chain" is a series of sets of interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements which has
the appearance of a plurality of braided, or helically intertwined, multi-
fiber strands of
hemp, flax, or the like.
"Standard" or "Ordinary" refers to the dimensional characteristics of annular
link elements
without major surface or edge variation and whose dimensions follow the
recommendations according to the aforementioned U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517, for
example, i.e. whose dimensions result in a tightly fitting series of link
elements having the
appearance of intertwining helical strands of rope.
2 0 A "set" is the number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements making up a
structurally repeated pattern along the chain. In the accompanying drawings
and
associated text, a six-link set is used for purposes of ease of visual
presentation and
description. The preferred number of link elements in a set is eight.
A "group" is a number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements exhibiting
2 5 identical visual properties. The number of link elements in a group may be
the same or
different than the number of link elements in a set. Groups may be uniformly
or randomly
distributed along the rope chain.
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A "link" is the basic building element (also referred herein as a "link
element"), a number
of which are assembled in series to form a rope chain. Link elements of the
prior art are
annular in shape with an open gap having a length slightly greater than the
width of the
annular link. In accordance with the present invention, a link element may
have a circular,
baguette, oval, diamond, rectangular, square, polygonal, heart, or other
geometrical shape.
Each is provided with a gap at a selected position along the perimeter thereof
thereby
maintaining a generally C-shaped overall configuration. In such a generally C-
shaped
overall configuration, the inner periphery will be referred to herein as an
interior edge, and
the outer periphery will be referred to as an exterior edge. While the link
elements of a
l0 rope chain are not necessarily annular, it is the preferred configuration
for the basic
building element of a rope chain, and for that reason an annular link element
will be used
in most of the examples shown and described herein.
A "channel" is the path which the eye follows in passing along the rope chain
at the apex
of the V-shaped helical groove formed between the apparent intertwined rope
braids.
Hence, in the preferred embodiments described herein, the rope chain has the
appearance
of a pair of intertwined braids of ropes, and thus there exists two such
helical channels
offset from one another by one-half of the pitch of either helix.
A "visual property", as used herein, is a characteristic of an object which
presents a
particular visual image to the eye. Such characteristics include, but are not
limited to,
2 0 color, texture, pattern, reflectivity, design, or shape. Although shape is
also a physical
property of an object, in the art of jewelry making, it is often the physical
shapes which
impart beauty and delicateness to a fashion item.
"Color", as used herein, refers to the quality of the link element or portion
thereof with
respect to light reflected by it and visually perceived by the eye as a
particular hue,
2 5 saturation, and brightness of the reflected light. In most cases, the
different colors
exhibited by a link element or portions) thereof result from the use of
different materials
(white gold as differing from yellow gold as differing from rhodium as
differing from
enamel coatings of different hues, etc.
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The "major surface" of a link element refers to the substantially flat or
planar upper and
lower facial surfaces of a link element. Such surface, although being
substantially planar,
nevertheless may have raised or depressed patterns therein, or may be notched,
gouged,
textured, or otherwise physically altered by the stamping process to present a
desired
pleasing visual effect to the observer. Additionally, the upper and lower
facial surfaces
need not be flat. For example, the link elements may be tubular, or otherwise
circular in
cross section, and yet have the uppermost and lowermost surface portions lying
in
respective parallel planes.
The "interior" and "exterior" edges of a link element are, respectively, the
inner and outer
l0 peripheral sides which span between the upper and lower major surfaces of a
link element.
Such interior and exterior edges, may have raised or depressed patterns
therein, or may be
notched, gouged, textured, or otherwise physically altered by the stamping
process to
present a desired pleasing visual effect to the observer.
"Link width" is defined as a distance, measured along either of the major
surfaces, between
a pair of parallel lines perpendicular to the major surfaces and tangent to,
respectively, the
interior and exterior edges.
"Link thickness" is defined as a distance between and perpendicular to the
planes of the
upper and lower major surfaces.
"Configuration" refers to the overall appearance of a link element. Typical
link elements
2 0 are annular with a gap in the annulus to permit interlinking with other
link elements. As
disclosed herein, link elements can have shapes other than annular. However,
all link
elements have an overall C-shaped configuration.
"Die-cutting" as used herein refers to the process and tooling with which a
die, constructed
of hardened metal with sharp edges, is brought into contact with a sheet of
material cutting
2 5 portions out of the sheet of material according to a predetermined pattern
of the sharp
edges of the die.
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"Stamping", can have the same meaning as "die-cutting" when meaning that a
pattern is
stamped (cut) out of a sheet of material. However, "stamping" is also defined
as
imprinting, striking, pounding, marking, or otherwise providing a distinctive
character to a
surface by the pressure of a die pattern against such surface. Thus,
"stamping" can mean
cutting of and/or impressing on a sheet of material. In particular, "pressure
stamping"
impresses a material under pressure, but does not cut through the material.
With reference to Figures 1 Y and 2Y, conventional rope chains, such as that
shown in
Figure 2Y, are made with a systematic and repetitive interlinking of basic
annular link
elements 1 Y such as that shown in Figure 1 Y. The annular link element 1 Y
must meet
l0 certain dimensional requirements for the interlinking to result in a well-
fitting rope chain.
Such dimensions are known in the art and will vary from a four-link variety to
a six-link
variety to an eight-link variety, and so on. Determining the proper dimensions
for the
annular link element 1 Y and the gap 3Y therein, depending upon the number of
desired
link elements to form a set of interlinked link elements, can be readily
understood by
reference to the aforementioned U.S. patents, especially U.S. Patent No.
4,651,517. As
can be viewed in Figure 2 herein, the intertwined link elements 1 Y of a
segment of a
conventional rope chain are shown in Figure 2Y in the form of a six-link
variety. In their
assembled form, the series of link elements 1 Y produce the appearance of a
pair of braids
of rope, the combination of which results in a double intertwined helical
appearance.
2 o As seen in Figures 2Y, the apparent intertwining of a pair of rope strands
or braids results
in a V-shaped groove between the braids at any position along the rope chain.
The path
along the apex of such V-shaped groove is referred to herein as a "channel",
and since
there are two apparent rope braids, there are, likewise, two defined channels
indicating
Figure 2Y by the directional arrows 8AY and 8BY. Channels 8AY and 8BY, along
the
2 5 length of the rope chain, define the transition points between the two
helixes. However,
the two channels never intersect one another, and are parallel to one another
along the
length of the rope chain separated axially by one half of the pitch of either
of the two
channels. In the prior art of Figure 2Y, there is no visual difference between
following
along the two helical channels 8AY and 8BY, since the rope chain is comprised
of a
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wo oois93zs rc~ricrsooio9::oi
repetitive series of sets of link elements 1 Y, and all Iink elements have the
same visual
property (they are all of the same color, texture, and shape for example).
The remaining figures to be described, Figures 3Y-65Y, illustrate examples of
a virtually
limitless number of variations of the cjesign and construction features of
link elements that
5 rnay be.assembled into a distinctively beautiful and unique rope chain
having appealing
visual properties.
It will be appreciated that a link element may exhibit multiple colors due to
a variety of
possible physical constructions. For example, as in the aforementioned United
States
Patent 6,209,306 titled "Decorative Jewelry Rope Chain", a link element may
1 o be of laminated construction, such that one major surface is of one
material or color and
the opposite major surface is of a different material or color. Additionally,
or alternatively,
each or both major surfaces may be divided into portions, each portion
exhibiting a color,
texture, or shape different from its adjacent portion.
In describing Figures 3Y-65Y, it should be understood that the link elements
so shown are
15 all manufactured employing a stamping and/or die-cutting operation. In some
embodiments, the link elements are stamped, or die-cut, in their final shape.
In other
embodiments, 'texturing is pre-applied prior to stamping or die-cutting. In
yet other
embodiments, the link elements are formed by bending strips of material which
themselves
were stamped, or die-cut, from a sheet of material.
2 o In Figure 3Y, the plan view of a sheet of material 4Y has regions SY and
6Y exhibiting
different visual properties, represented in Figure 3Y as different colors.
When stamped
from the sheet of material 4Y, the annular link element 7Y, the position and
orientation of
which is shown in dashed lines, will have, on at least one planar major facial
surface
thereof, a first segment SAY of a first visual property, e.g. color, and a
second segment
2 5 6AY of a second visual property, e.g. color. The link element 7Y may be
formed, for
example, by stamping a flat sheet constructed of two edge-joined strips of
different flat
materials, or of two edge joined strips of materials of different colors
and/or textures
and/or coatings (such as by the application of an enamel).
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It will be noted in Figure 3Y that the link element 7Y to be stamped from the
sheet of
material 4Y has its gap 9Y oriented at approximately a two o'clock position,
such that a
short portion on the left side, or arm, of the link element 7Y near the gap 9Y
will be of
white gold color, while the remainder of the left side will be of a yellow
gold color. The
opposite is true of the right side, or arm, of link element 7Y, i.e. a large
segment of the
right side adjacent the gap 9Y is of a white gold color, while a shorter
segment of the right
side is of a yellow gold color. When a number of such link elements 7Y are
assembled
into a rope chain, an interesting color pattern will be observed in the double
helical length
of rope chain. That is, one of the helixes will have a predominant white color
with a small
1 o portion of the helix being of a yellow color adjacent one of the rope
chain channels, while
the other helix will be primarily of a yellow color with a small portion of
the helix being of
a white color adjacent one of the rope chain channels.
In this connection, most of the remaining figures are not lined for color.
However, it will
be understood that all, or portions, of each of the link elements to be
described hereinafter
may be of a color selected from a variety of different colors, and/or may be
made of a
material selected from a variety of different materials. For example, any of
the link
elements described herein may have the entire surface, or portions thereof, of
yellow gold,
white gold, rose (pink) gold, green gold, silver, nickel, or rhodium, either
solid, plated, or
laminated; or such surfaces, or portions thereof, may be enameled.
2 0 In some cases, the gapped link elements may be stamped from a multicolored
flat sheet
comprising a number of edge joined strips of alternately colored gold
materials, or
alternately of different materials such as gold and silver. Such a
multicolored flat sheet
may be stamped to form gapped link elements in different orientations relative
to the strip
pattern and relative to the gap position, resulting in a variety of
interesting colored patterns
2 5 in the finished rope chain, yet all such link elements can be stamped from
the same
multicolored stripped sheet.
Figure 4Y is a view similar to that of Figure 3Y, except that the sheet of
material 11 Y
comprises a laxger number of colored strips 12Y-17Y, and the link element 18Y
to be
stamped from the sheet of material 11 Y has a different orientation relative
to the
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longitudinal extent of the edge joined strips 12Y-17Y. With the gap 19Y
oriented at the
twelve o'clock position, a length of rope chain constructed by assembling a
number of link
elements 18Y will produce a length of rope chain of two intertwined helixes,
but with the
outermost surface of each helix being of the same color, since strips 12Y and
17Y are
lined for the same color of material. On either side of the outermost
peripheral surface of
each helix, a short length of a different color will be observed from one
helix to the other,
since strips 13Y and 16Y are lined to indicate two different colors, although
they could be
the same if desired. Then, the extreme visible inner portion of each helix,
along the rope
chain channels, will have yet a third and fourth color visible to the
observer, due to the
l0 different colored strips 14Y and 15Y lined in Figure 4Y to indicate
different coloration
between the two strips.
In the remaining figures to be described, the relative position of the gap in
the link chain to
be produced and the number of strips, width of each strip, and color of each
strip will
obviously produce different visual effects, and the description of Figures 3Y
and 4Y above
will serve as a basis for understanding the resulting color/texture/shape or
pattern that will
be visible in the intertwining helixes. Moreover, by reference to the
aforementioned Patent
Application No. 09/337,455 entitled "Jewelry Rope Chain Link Element", U.S.
Patent No.
4,651,517, and U.S. Patent No. 5,301,498, an appreciation of the display of
visual
properties of a length of rope chain will be fully understood by a person of
ordinary skill in
2 0 the art of making rope chains. Accordingly, minute details of the visual
effects resulting
from manufacturing and assembling the link elements yet to be described, and
resulting
from assembling combinations of link elements described in this specification,
are
unnecessary.
Figures SY and 7Y illustrate how the visual properties of the link elements
27Y and 47Y,
2 5 respectively can be varied by varying the widths and arrangement of the
visual properties
of the sheet of material 21 Y, 41 Y.
Figure SY is a view similar to that of Figure 3Y, except that the sheet of
material 21Y is
comprised of two edge joined strips 23Y, 25Y which are not only of different
colors but
are of different widths. With the gap 29Y oriented at about a one o'clock
position, one of
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the helixes of the finished rope chain will be of an all yellow gold color,
while the other
helix will be both yellow and white gold in color.
Figure 6Y is also a view similar to that of Figure 3Y, but showing a different
orientation of
the link element 37Y to be stamped from the sheet of material 31Y comprised of
edge-
s joined colored strips 33Y and 35Y. With the gap 39Y oriented at the twelve
o'clock
position, the two helixes will both be of a single color, but one helix will
be of white gold
and the other will be of yellow gold in color. The lined colors shown in
Figure 6Y, and in
all of the accompanying figures, are intended to be representative of any two,
or multiple,
colors, and thus the two strips 33Y and 35Y in Figure 6Y may be both of yellow
gold, but
with one strip being of a relatively low gold karat weight and the other of a
relatively
higher gold karat weight.
Figure 7Y is a view similar to that of Figure SY, but with the sheet of
material 41 Y
comprised of two differently colored edge joined strips 43Y and 45Y having
different
widths than those shown in Figure SY and a color reversal of the stripped
regions 43Y and
45Y. The gap 49Y, however, is oriented similar to that shown in Figure SY.
Figure 7AY is an example of a link element SOY stamped from a multicolored
sheet (not
shown) of material, resulting in a major yellow gold portion 52Y, a minor gold
portion
54Y, and a central segment 56Y of white gold on one of the halves of the link
element
SOY. A rope chain constructed from link elements SOY, if central segments 56Y
are all
2 0 aligned link-to-link, would have the appearance of a primarily yellow gold
rope chain with
the outermost peripheral edge of one of the helical rope strands displaying a
central helical
path of white gold.
Figure 8Y is a view similar to that of Figures 3Y or 6Y, but showing a
different orientation
of the gap 59Y for the link element 57Y to be stamped from the sheet of
material S 1 Y
comprising colored elongated regions 53Y and SSY. A length of rope chain
constructed of
link elements 57Y, alternating with link elements of similar construction but
with the
colors in regions 53Y and SSY reversed, would thus display one-half of each of
the two
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helixes as white gold and the other half as yellow gold, with one side of each
channel
(8AY and 8BY, Figure 2Y) of white gold, and the other side of yellow gold.
Figures 6Y and 8Y show how the visual properties of the link elements 37Y, 57Y
can be
varied by stamping, from sheets with substantially the same visual properties,
link
elements with their respective gaps 39Y, 59Y in different angular
orientations. For
example, in Figure 6Y, the stamping produces a link element 37Y with a gap 39Y
oriented
such that the link element is bifurcated in half through the gap 39Y, and each
half of the
link element 37Y is of a different visual property. By simply setting the
stamping of the
link element to be in a different angular position (as in Figure 8Y), where
the gap 59Y is
rotated 90Y degrees, the orientation of the visual properties on the link
element 57Y is
also offset by 90 degrees. This has significance, because certain parts of a
link element
relative to its gap have more visibility in the finished rope chain than other
parts. The
foregoing is just one example of how the position of visual properties on the
individual
link elements may be changed by varying the angular position of stamping
without
changing the arrangement of visual properties of the sheet on which the
stamping is
applied.
By the combination of varying: 1 ) the visual properties of a sheet on which
stamping is
applied; and 2) the angular position of stamping, a myriad of link elements
with different
visual properties may be produced that will, in turn, result in a great number
of rope chains
2 0 of varying visual properties.
In Figure 9Y, the sheet of material S1Y has wide white gold edge joined strips
63Y and
65Y with a central yellow gold strip 64Y of smaller width. With the gap 69Y in
the nine
o'clock position, as shown, a link element 67Y stamped from the sheet of
material S 1 Y
would display both helixes as white gold in color with a yellow gold helical
band directly
2 5 in the center of each helix.
Figure l0Y illustrates that, instead of, or in addition to, color elongated
edge joined strips,
a sheet of material 71 Y may have a preformed length of textured surface 74Y
leaving the
surface areas 73Y and 75Y on each side of the textured surface 74Y non-
textured. With
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the gap 79Y at the twelve o'clock position, as shown, a link element 77Y will
present a
non-textured outer surface of each of the two helixes, while the inner sides
of the helixes,
i.e. on a major facial surface along the channels of the rope chain (see
reference numerals
8AY and 8BY in Figure 2Y) will be textured.
5 In Figure l0Y and other figures showing preformed regions of textured
surfaces, parallel
lines are typically depicted, suggesting a scored or serrated textured
appearance. It is to be
understood that this showing of pre-textured surfaces are examples only, and
that any other
known pre-texturing process can be used. Other examples include forming at
least one of
the regions of different surface textures employing at least one process
selected from the
10 group consisting of serrating, scoring, knurling, lining, patterning,
pressure stamping,
impressing, sandblasting, etching, shaping, polishing, matting, frosting, and
diamond
cutting.
Figure 11 Y illustrates the possibility of providing a sheet of material 91 Y
with two
different regions of surface texturing shown at 92Y and 94Y in Figure 11 Y,
leaving the
15 regions 93Y, 95Y, and 96Y non-textured. With the gap 99Y at the three
o'clock position,
as shown, each of the two helixes of an assembled rope chain will show a pair
of spaced
textured helical stripes equally spaced from the outermost surface of the
helixes.
Figures 12Y and 12AY illustrates one possible physical structure for the
double textured
sheet of material 91 Y shown in Figure 11 Y. In Figure 12Y, it will be
observed that the
2 0 two textured surfaces 92Y and 94Y on the upper side of the sheet of
material 91 Y have
different geometrical properties, and that similar textured regions (not
numbered) can
optionally be formed on the lower surface of the sheet of material 91 Y and
may have the
same or different textured patterns.
In Figure 13Y, the sheet of material lOlY has two differently textured regions
103Y and
2 5 l OSY, the region 103Y being a textured surface, and the region l OSY
being either textured
differently or non-textured. With the gap 109Y at the twelve o'clock position,
as shown, a
length of rope chain constructed of link elements 107Y would display one helix
with a
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91
textured major surface and the other with no texturing or a different textured
major
surface.
Figure 14Y is a plan view of a sheet of material 11 lY in which a link element
115Y or
117Y can be die-cut from the sheet of material 111 Y and display radially
directed texture
patterns 113AY-113DY as shown. Figure 14Y also shows that the pattern of the
cutting
edges in the die-cutting process can produce an annular shaped link element
115Y or a link
element 117Y having features departing from the standard annular
configuration. In a
preferred embodiment of the invention, either link element 115Y or 117Y may be
die-cut
simultaneously with the stamping of the upper planar surface of the sheet of
material 111 Y
forming the radially directed impressed lined patterns 113AY-113DY.
Alternatively, a
lined pattern such as that shown in dashed lines as numeral 114Y may be formed
on the
sheet of material in a preparatory step of imprinting the surface texturing at
specific
locations, after which the die-cutting process will cut the link element 115Y
or 117Y from
the sheet 111 Y. The textured pattern 114Y intentionally extends a length
greater than the
annular radius of the link elements 115Y, 117Y to allow for tolerance in the
registration of
the pressure stamping process which impresses the texture pattern and the die-
cutting
process which severs the link element 11 SY, 117Y from the sheet of material
111 Y.
Although Figure 14Y shows a particular pattern for a number of radially
directed stamped,
or impressed, lines, the illustration in Figure 14Y is exemplary only, and any
pattern of
2 0 surface texturing can be applied along a portion or the entire extent of
the link element
115Y, 117Y to be die-cut from the sheet 111Y, depending upon the choice of the
designer.
Figure 1 SY is a cross sectional view of the sheet of material 111 Y taken
along the lines
15Y-15Y in Figure 14Y. This figure shows the character of the impressed
textured areas
113AY-113DY relative to the thickness of the sheet of material of 111Y.
2 5 Figure 16Y illustrates the plan view of a link element 11 SY die-cut from
a sheet 111 Y
shown in Figure 14Y for an annular configuration of the link element.
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Figure 17Y illustrates the plan view of a link element 117Y die-cut from a
sheet 11 lY
shown in Figure 14Y for an alternate configuration of the link element, with
bulging
portions 119Y of the link element 117Y extending between the imprinted surface
textured
areas 113AY-113DY, for decorative purposes.
Figure 18Y is a perspective view of a laminated sheet of material 151Y
comprised of, for
example, a layer of white gold 156Y and a layer of yellow gold 158Y (or both
layers
156Y, 158Y can be of yellow gold of different gold karat weights). In a
stamping, or die-
cutting, process, slices 1 SOY can be cut from the sheet of layered material
151 Y and
eventually formed into a link element by a bending or rolling process to be
described
hereinafter with reference to the forming method depicted in the action
perspective view of
Figure 30Y, and with reference to the layered link element shown in Figures
49Y and
49AY. A length of rope chain constructed from a group of assembled link
elements as
shown in Figure 49Y, would thus have the general appearance of a rope chain
having
essentially the color of the outer layer on the link element so formed.
While Figures 18Y, 49Y, and 49AY depict one color representing yellow gold and
the
other color representing white gold or silver, it may be desirable to laminate
together two
yellow gold layers of different gold karat weight. If the two layers 156Y,158Y
are both
yellow gold of different karat weights, 7K and 14K for example, and the link
element is
formed with a 14K outer layer, the visual impression of a finished rope chain
will be
2 0 essentially that of a 14K gold rope chain, giving a purchaser the desired
visual quality at
lower cost.
In this connection, Figures 18Y-31Y are all concerned with the forming or
shaping of a
strip of material into the configuration of a link element after the strip has
been sliced, e.g.
die-cut, from a sheet of material. Figure 18Y, as noted above, may be sliced
and bent into
2 5 annular shape to produce the layered link element shown in Figure 49Y. In
Figure 49Y,
the major surfaces exhibit multiple colors or textures 323Y, 325Y, and the
inner and outer
edges each exhibit a single color or texture 323Y, 325Y, while in Figure 49AY
each major
surface 328Y, 340Y exhibits a single color or texture, and the inner and outer
edges (inner
edge not visible in Figure 49AY) exhibit multiple colors or textures.
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It should be noted that, depending upon the choice of material thicknesses and
width of the
slices 150Y and 150AY, the slices 150Y and 150AY can be bent in any of four
different
directions to produce a major surface with either material 152AY or 154AY and
the other
major surface with the other material (or both yellow of different gold karat
weights, cf.
Figure 6Y of the aforementioned U.S. Application No. 09/287,972), or to
produce a major
surface having the interior edge of one material 152Y and the exterior edge of
the other
material 154Y , or vice versa (cf. Figure 49Y). Figure 18Y is illustrative of
two
thicknesses of laminated materials 156Y and 158Y on either side of a
transition region
151AY permitting construction of link elements of the types just described.
Figures 19Y-31 Y are specifically directed to the formation of textured
surfaces on the
major surfaces of the ultimate link element and/or on the peripheral edges of
the ultimate
link element. Both major surface texturing and edge surface texturing will be
dealt with in
the ensuing paragraphs.
Figure 19Y, like Figure 18Y, shows a sheet of material 131Y from which strips
133Y may
be sliced, the strips 133Y having the precise dimensions of width, thickness,
and length so
as to meet the specifications and requirements for interlinking link elements
formed
therefrom with other similar link elements to form a rope chain. In Figure
19Y, the sheet
of material 131 Y is not shown to be layered, but it may be layered, if
desired. However,
whether layered or not, the strips 133Y are stamped and/or die-cut from the
sheet of
2 0 material 131 Y with the die-cutting device having spaced apart zig-zag
cutting edge
portions to form the vertical textured surfaces 135Y shown in Figure 19Y.
Additionally,
as the die-cutting tool (not shown) slices through the sheet of material 131
Y, the tooling
simultaneously impresses a secondary series of textured surfaces 139Y on the
top surface
of the sheet of material 131Y. If the strip 133Y shown in Figure 19Y has its
ends bent
2 5 downwardly about a mandrel, a link element similar to that shown in Figure
27Y, except
for the textured interior edge, would result. Specifically, the link element
shown in Figure
27Y results from a slightly different process as will now be described.
From the description of Figure 19Y, it will be appreciated that the sheet of
material 131 Y
has a thickness greater than the width of the slice 133Y, so that the link
element formed by
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bringing the ends of the strip 133Y downwardly around a mandrel will produce a
link
element of the proper physical dimensions for the construction of a rope
chain.
An alternate, and preferred, method is to provide a thinner sheet of material
141 Y such as
that shown in Figure 20Y and die-cutting strips 147Y of wider dimension, as
shown. This
method has two advantages. First, it is easier to die-cut a strip from a thin
material than it
is from a thicker material. Secondly, since a link element formed by bending
the strip
147Y requires the ends of the strip 147Y as shown in Figure 20Y to be bent
toward the
observer about a mandrel, this permits the stamping/die-cutting procedure to
form zig-zag
edge patterns 145Y on both the front and rear edges of the strip 147Y. This
process will
be described in connection with Figures 24Y-27Y.
Figure 21 Y is a top plan view of the sheet of material 141 Y showing four
groups of lined
patterns 149Y representing any desired texturing design formed on a sheet of
material
141 Y prior to the slicing of the sheet of material 141 Y into strips to be
formed into link
elements. The die-cutting tool, in order to produce the strip 147Y necessarily
has three
spaced zig-zag patterns on its front edge to form the zig-zag textured surface
145Y on the
strip 147Y so produced. With every other slice line formed by the die-cutting
tool being
non zig-zagged, the textured pattern 145Y is formed on only one peripheral
edge of two
adjacent strips 147Y simultaneously.
Figure 22Y is a side elevational view of the slice of material 147Y shown in
Figures 20Y
2 o and 21Y, better illustrating the positioning of the major surface
texturing 149Y and the
peripheral edge texturing 145Y prior to the strip 147Y being formed into a
link element.
Figure 23Y is a top plan view of the slice of material 147Y shown in Figure
22Y.
Figure 24Y is a view similar to that of Figure 21 Y except that both
peripheral edges of all
strips 147AY have the peripheral edge texturing pattern 145Y. Moreover, it is
to be
2 5 understood that the bottom surface of the sheet of material 141 Y in
Figure 24Y has the
identical texturing pattern 149Y as shown on the top surface of the sheet.
Accordingly,
Figure 25Y shows surface texturing 149Y on the top major surface of the strip
147AY,
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while the numeral 153Y represents the spaced texturing design patterns on the
bottom
surface of the strip 147AY.
As best seen in Figure 26Y, as described in connection with Figure 24Y, the
zig-zag
textured portions 145Y on the peripheral edges of the strip 147AY are on both
peripheral
5 edges.
Figure 27Y thus is a perspective view of a link element formed from the slice
of material
147AY shown in Figures 25Y and 26Y.
Figure 28Y is a perspective view similar to that shown in Figure 19Y, but with
deep cut
notches forming textured recesses 139AY formed in the sheet of material prior
to slicing
10 the sheet 131Y to form strips 133AY.
Employing the process of forming a strip 133AY suggested by Figure 28Y, a link
element
having the characteristics shown in Figure 29Y results.
It will be understood that, for ease of drawing and description, the textured
patterns shown
in Figures l0Y-17Y and 19Y-29Y are shown as a group of parallel lines for ease
of
15 presentation only. The stamping and/or die-cutting tool may just as easily
be
manufactured to have any desired surface texturing or pattern at the whim of
the designer.
Each of the areas shown to be lined patterns may simply be regions of
simulated sand
blasting, matting, serration, knurling, or may be some design having
geometrical figures as
its content, or other design patterns, such as happy faces, heart shapes,
flower petals, leaf
2 0 patterns, and the like.
Stamping is merely one method of fabricating annular link elements for the
manufacture of
rope chains. Link elements can also be made from wire. As in the case of
"stamping",
different visual properties can first be made on the wire prior to the making
of the link
element. Figure 30Y shows a portion of a wire 161Y that can be made into an
annular link
2 5 element for the purpose of making rope chains with a distinctive and
decorative design.
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The removal or omission of material from the wire, as shown, has an additional
benefit of
savings of precious metal resulting in lowered cost of materials.
Figure 30Y is an action perspective view showing four time positions of a
slice of material
161 Y or a prepared strip or wire, illustrating the bending of a straight
textured and shaped
slice or wire into the configuration of a link element. As can be seen in
Figure 30Y, a
rather scalloped design of impressions 163Y may be formed on any portion of a
strip of
material 161 Y which, after forming of the link element, produces a notched
interior edge
163Y. Similarly, the right bottom side of the strip 161Y may have V-grooves
167Y
formed therein so that the formed link will have the V-grooves 167Y on its
outer
peripheral edge. Using any of the process steps mentioned above, the sides of
the strip
161Y may be provided with a pattern of textured regions 165Y which then show
as
textured regions on the major surface or surfaces of the ultimately produced
link element.
Although it has been adequately described earlier in this specification, the
notches 163Y,
V-grooves 167Y, and side serrations or textured patterns 165Y of the link
element shown
in Figure 30Y all contribute to removing precious metal from the otherwise
solid annular
ring-shaped link element. As a result, not only is precious metal conserved
without
diminishing the structural integrity of the link element, but interesting
patterns of the rope
chain from which the link elements are made can be produced as described
herein. The
link element produced by the process described in connection with Figures 28Y
and 29Y,
2 0 for example, result in a significant savings in precious metal content.
Figure 31Y is a view similar to that shown in Figure 30Y, but without showing
intermediate bending positions, and with a different pattern of surface
texturing, i.e.
serrations 175Y formed on the major surface of the wire or strip of
material/link element
171 Y, and additional serrations 173Y formed on the exterior peripheral edge.
Figure 31 Y
2 5 thus shows the manufacture on an annular link 171 Y exhibiting serration-
like
characteristics from a wire or strip 171 Y first formed with such serration-
like
characteristics.
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Figures 30Y and 31Y are exemplary only. The wire or strip may be formed with a
variety
of different visual properties as illustrated in Figure 32Y which
schematically shows
examples of different surface texturing 181Y-189Y that may be selected to
cover portions
or the entire major or edge surfaces of a link element made in accordance with
the present
invention. Figure 32Y illustrates that the surface texturing may include
parallel serrated
strips 181Y, random raised lineation 182Y, cross-serrations 183Y, lineal
serrations 184Y,
raised portions 185Y, filigreed elements 186Y, either raised beads or
depressed beads
187Y, parallel serrated strips 188Y in a direction different that of 181 Y,
and sandblasted
texturing 189Y. Again, these are provide for the purpose of illustration only,
as there are
an endless number of visual properties that can be imparted to the wire or
strip prior to
fabricating the link element.
Figures 33Y-59Y illustrate examples of link elements that can be formed to
exhibit
different visual properties. Some of these are for decorative purposes only
while others
provide for savings in the amount of materials used to make rope chains. Some
provide
both benefits.
Figure 33Y shows an annular link element 191Y having the entirety of one of
its major
surfaces 193Y textured, simulating a sandblasted surface. This is made
possible by
fabricating the stamper tooling device with a sandblasted inner surface. When
the link
element is die cut from a sheet of material, the pressure of the stamper
simultaneously
2 0 creates the simulated sandblasted effect on the major surface which the
stamper contacts.
Figure 34Y shows an annular link element 195Y having a smooth major surface
197Y, and
with the exterior edge 199Y serrated. This is made possible by providing the
stamper
tooling device with a serrated cutting edge.
Figure 35Y shows an annular link element 201Y having the entirety of one of
its major
surfaces 203Y serrated. This is made possible by fabricating the stamper
tooling device
with a serrated inner surface, or, preferably, creating serrations along the
entire length and
width of the sheet of material from which the link element 201 Y will be cut.
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Figure 36Y is similar to that of Figure 35Y but with the stamper rotated 90Y
degrees with
respect to the sheet of material.
Figure 37Y shows an annular link element 209Y having segments 213Y of the
major
surface 211 Y serrated. This is made possible by fabricating the stamper
tooling device
with a serrated inner surface having the same pattern in reverse. If a pre-
textured sheet of
material is to be provided, it could not have continuous serrations, similar
to the situation
described in connection with Figure 14Y.
Figure 38Y shows an annular link element 215Y having segments 219Y of the
major
surface 217Y serrated. This also is made possible by fabricating the stamper
tooling
device with a serrated inner surface having the same pattern in reverse.
Preferably,
however, a pre-textured sheet of material will be provided having an elongated
center
region of continuous serrations, and the stamper is simply oriented with the
gap position
aligned with the extent of the serrations.
Figure 39Y shows an annular link element 221Y having segments 225Y, 227Y of
the
major surface 223Y provided with a knurled effect. This is made possible by
fabricating
the stamper tooling device with a knurled inner surface having the same
pattern in reverse.
If a pre-textured sheet of material is to be provided, it could not have a
continuous knurled
pattern, similar to the situation described in connection with Figure 14Y.
Figure 40Y shows an annular link element 231Y having segments 235Y, 237Y of
the
2 0 major surface 233Y lined, simulating scoring of the major surface 233Y.
This is made
possible by fabricating the stamper tooling device with a lined pattern on its
inner surface
of similar, but reversed, design.
Figure 41 Y shows an annular link element 241 Y having segments 245Y, 247Y of
the
major surface 243Y notched. This is made possible by fabricating the stamper
tooling
2 5 device with a complementary notched cutting edge.
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Figure 42Y shows an annular link element 251Y having the outer extent of the
major
surface 253Y provided with lining 255Y simulating scoring of the major surface
253Y.
This is made possible by fabricating the stamper tooling device with a lined
inner surface
having the same pattern in reverse.
Figure 43Y shows a stamped link element 261Y with a lobbed side 265Y. The
dotted line
269Y is the outline of a side that the link element would take if it were
annular, like the
other side 263Y, and is provided for comparison purposes only. Employing a
number of
link elements 261 Y in a rope chain, and with proper arrangement, produces one
of the
helixes having a larger effective diameter that the other helix.
Figure 44Y shows an annular link element 271Y having a smooth major surface
273Y, and
with one half the exterior edge 275Y beaded. This is made possible by
providing the
stamper tooling device with a beaded pattern along one half of its cutting
edge.
Figure 45Y is a plan view of a link element 281 Y similar to that shown in
Figure 1 Y, but
with a double bumped protruding projection 285Y on the interior edge thereof
opposite the
position of the gap in the link element 281Y between the two halves 283Y. The
two
projecting bumps 287Y define a depression 289Y. The link width of the arms of
the two
halves 283Y is preferably narrower than standard. If the entire annular link
element 281Y
had a less-than-standard width, the finished rope chain would be very loosely
interconnected and unattractive. The purpose of the double bumped projection
285Y is to
2 0 simulate, during the assembly process, a link element of appropriate, i.e.
standard, annular
width at depression 285Y. Since the looseness or tightness of the finished
rope chain
product is dependent, among other factors, upon the width of the link at the
location
opposite the gap, employing the reduced material design for the link element
281 Y as
shown will result in a perfectly formed rope chain with tightly interconnected
link
2 5 elements having the same flexibility as if the link elements were each
made with a
standard annular width in its entirety. This arrangement thus reduces material
by a
reduced annular width and by using fewer link elements per unit length of rope
chain,
making the chain to appear longer than the standard rope chain.
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The purpose for the two spaced bumps 287Y is to affect the appearance of the
channels
between rope strands of a finished rope chain. Due to the spaced bumps, the
rope chain
will display more precious metal (e.g., gold) in the channels between strands
of the
finished rope chain. As to construction concerns, the interior edge of a like
adjacent link
element 281 Y will fit perfectly within the depression 289Y, and the rope
chain will have
high structural integrity due to the width of the link element 281 Y between
the exterior
edge and the depression 289Y being of standard dimension.
If desired, the arms 283Y of link element 281Y may be of standard width, and
the edge
projection 285Y will then be of greater than standard width. In such a case,
the gap will
l o necessarily have to be widened to accommodate the projection 285Y of an
interconnected
link since such projection passes through the open gap at an angle so as to
have the major
surfaces of adjacent link elements in surface contact. One advantage of this
variation is
that fewer link elements are necessary per unit length of rope chain.
Figure 46Y shows a stamped annular link element 291 Y having a standard width
annular
shaped side arm 293Y and a rectangular side arm 295Y. The overall
configuration is D-
shaped with a circular interior edge 297Y.
Figure 47Y shows a stamped annular link element 301Y having a standard width
annular
shaped top half 303Y and a less than standard annular width lower half 305Y.
Figure 48Y shows a stamped annular link element 311Y having a rectangular
exterior edge
313Y and a circular interior edge 315Y.
Figure 49Y shows a layered link element 321Y having a yellow gold outer layer
323Y and
a white gold inner layer 325Y, the link element 321Y being fabricated
employing the
method described in connection with Figure 18Y and 30Y.
As with the embodiment of the multilayered sheet of material shown in Figure
18Y, if
2 5 desired, rather than two different materials or distinctly differently
colored materials being
laminated together, the inner layer 325Y of link element 321Y may be made of a
yellow
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gold of relatively low gold karat weight, e.g. 7 karat gold, while the outer
layer 323Y may
be made of a relatively high gold karat weight, e.g. 14 karat gold. In this
manner, the
visual impression of a finished rope chain will be essentially that of a 14K
gold rope chain,
giving a purchaser the desired visual quality at lower cost.
Figure 49AY shows a layered link element 322Y formed of two layers 324Y and
326Y
and having a yellow gold major surface 328Y and a white gold major surface
340Y, the
link element 322Y being fabricated employing the method described in
connection with
Figure 18Y and 30Y. In Figure 49AY, each major surface 328Y, 340Y exhibits a
single
color or texture, and the inner and outer edges (inner edge not visible in
Figure 49AY)
exhibit multiple colors or textures;
Figure SOY is a plan view of a link element 331Y having an arcuate, but
stepped, concave
cutout 335Y. This may create an interesting mufti-faceted helix along one of
the
intertwining rope strands, which is especially attractive, especially when the
flat stepped
surfaces are rhodium coated. A mufti-faceted helix on one of the intertwining
rope strands
is made possible by reversing every other link element in the assembly
procedure.
However if both sides of link element 331Y are symmetrically concave and
stepped as
shown, a helical groove can be seen on top of each simulated helical rope
strand without
having to reverse every other link element.
Figure 51 Y shows a stamped annular link element 341 Y having a polygonal
exterior edge
2 0 343Y, a square interior edge 347Y, and a fanciful cutout design 345Y on
one side arm.
Figure 52Y shows a stamped annular link element 351Y having a circular
exterior edge
353Y, a square interior edge 355Y, and a cutout region 357Y opposite the
location of the
gap in the link element 351Y.
Figure 53Y shows a stamped annular link element 361Y having a standard width
annular
side arm 363Y and a series of symbols cut out on the other side arm 365Y. The
symbols
may be of any desired design and need be connected only with enough precious
metal for
strength and durability, so as not to obscure the nature of the design of the
symbols. This
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is another example of significant savings in precious metal with the
synergistic effect of
enhancing the decorative value of the piece of jewelry from which it is
constructed.
Figure 54Y shows a stamped annular link element 371Y having a generally D-
shaped
exterior edge 373Y, a square interior edge 379Y, and an undulated exterior
edge 377Y on
one of its side arms.
Figure SSY shows a stamped annular link element 381Y having a standard width
annular
side arm 383Y and a series of circular symbols cut out on the other side arm
385Y.
Figure 56Y shows a stamped annular link element 391Y having an average
standard
annular width but with the entire extent of the link element 391 Y formed with
an
l0 interconnected series of heart symbols 393Y.
Figure 57Y shows a stamped annular link element 401 Y having a polygonal
exterior edge
403Y, a square interior edge 407Y, and a fanciful cutout design 405Y on one
side arm.
Figure 58Y shows a stamped annular link element 411Y having a polygonal
exterior edge
413Y, a square interior edge 417Y, and a fanciful cutout design 415Y on one
side arm.
Figure 59Y shows a stamped annular link element 421 Y having an egg shaped
exterior
edge with a circular portion 423Y and an oval portion 425Y, and a square
interior edge
427Y.
Figure 60Y represents, schematically, an example of assembling a rope chain
431 Y by
alternating link elements 261Y (Figure 43Y) having lobbed sides 265Y with
2 0 conventionally shaped annular link elements 1 Y (Figure 1 Y). The lobbed
side 265Y of the
sequence of link elements 261 Y are placed alternately opposite one another,
thereby
producing a length of rope chain having the appearance of a larger overall
diameter as
indicated by dashed lines 440Y.
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Figure 61 Y is a schematic representation of an arrangement for a rope chain
441 Y,
whereby only link elements 261Y with lobbed sides 265Y are used with
consecutive link
elements 261Y placed such that the lobbed sides 265Y alternate in opposite
orientation,
thereby producing a length of rope chain having the appearance of a larger
overall diameter
as indicated by dashed lines 450Y.
Figure 62Y is a schematic representation of an arrangement for a rope chain
451 Y,
whereby only link elements 261 Y with lobbed sides 265Y are used but with
consecutive
link elements 261Y placed such that the lobbed sides 265Y are in the same
general
orientation. Since the finished rope chain 451 Y will have a helical
character, visually the
rope chain 451 Y has an apparent larger diameter as indicated at 452Y.
Figures 63Y-65Y schematically illustrate how link elements, whether annularly
shaped or
otherwise, of different dimensions can be interconnected together to form a
rope chain
resulting in a chain of different diameters along the length of the chain.
This type of
arrangement, in addition to its resulting distinctive appearance, can also
contribute to
savings in material costs, and yet the overall effect renders a visual
effective diameter
equal to that of the larger diameter link elements.
Figure 63Y shows a chain 461Y comprised of link elements 463Y,465Y of
different
dimensions every six link elements.
Figure 64Y shows a chain 471Y in which every other link element 473Y is of the
same
2 0 dimension and is interspersed with every other link element 475Y of a
different dimension.
The overall outline of this chain would give the general appearance of a chain
made only
from the link elements of larger dimension.
Figure 65Y illustrates a chain 481Y in which every two consecutive link
elements 483Y
and 485Y are of a different diameter.
2 5 The illustrations in Figures 60Y-65Y are presented for exemplary purposes
only. The
visual properties and the arrangements can be varied depending on the desired
effect.
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Figure 66Y is a plan view of a sheet of material 511 Y having multiple colored
or textured
regions 512Y-516Y, thereby exhibiting five different visual properties, and,
in dashed
lines, the location and orientation of link elements 517Y to be stamped from
such sheet of
material 511 Y.
Figure 67Y is a plan view similar to that of Figure 66Y, but with the
orientation of link
elements 519Y rotated 180°.
Figure 68Y is a plan view of a sheet of material 521 Y having multiple colored
or textured
regions 522Y-526Y, thereby exhibiting five different visual properties, and,
in dashed
lines, the location and orientation of link elements 527Y to be stamped from
such sheet of
material 521 Y.
Figure 69Y is a fragment representation of the sheet of material 511 Y shown
in Figure
66Y or 67Y. The sheet of material 51 lY has five different strips of material
512Y-516Y,
and the figure lining is not intended to represent any particular color or
texture which may
be selected from any of the colors or textures described in this
specification. It is to be
noted that every other link element of a rope chain is inverted, i.e., if the
gap of a particular
link element is oriented upwardly, the gap of each adjacent link element will
be oriented
downwardly. For this reason, a rope chain constructed of elements 517Y would
be
uninteresting because there would be no color/texture pattern correlation link-
to-link. That
is, on one link element the visual properties top-to-bottom would be in the
order 512Y-
2 0 516Y, while on each adjacent link element the visual properties top-to-
bottom would be in
reverse order of 516Y-512Y.
However, if the sheet of material 511 Y, or the stamping machine (not shown),
were
reversed in orientation, as shown in Figure 67Y, with the link element 519Y
possessing
the same coloring/texturing but in reverse order relative to the gap position,
then an
2 5 assembled rope chain will have color/texture pattern correlation link-to-
link, and will
display a plurality of helical color/texture patterns along the rope chain
531Y. This is
shown in Figure 70Y in the lower segment "BY". Segment "BY" is comprised of
alternate
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link elements 517Y and 519Y, with the fragment of Figure 6Y aligned with link
element
520Y as a reference.
In addition to multiple colored helixes, as described above, it will be noted
that in segment
"BY", one side of each channel 535Y has the color/texture of strip 512Y
(Figures 66Y,
67Y), while the other side of each channel 535Y has the color/texture of strip
516Y.
Color/texture 514Y creates a thin helical stripe along the extreme periphery
of each strand
the rope chain 531Y.
Instead of manufacturing two different, oppositely patterned, multicolored
link elements
517Y and 519Y, a length of rope chain can be made with link elements
alternating with
either link elements 517Y or 519Y and a standard single color link element,
e.g., one of
solid yellow gold. When assembled, the length of rope chain will have the
appearance as
shown in segment "AY" of Figure 70Y. With this arrangement, it is not
necessary to have
two different mufti-colored or mufti-textured link elements, and yet a
plurality of helical
color/texture patterns will be seen along the rope chain 531Y, the helical
patterns
interrupted by alternate solid yellow gold link elements. To some tastes, this
more subtle
helical patterning may be more appealing than the somewhat "busy" appearance
of the
helical patterning shown in segment "BY".
Figure 71 Y is a fragment representation of the sheet of material shown in
Figure 68Y. The
sheet of material 511 Y has five different strips of material 522Y-526Y, and
the lining is
2 0 not intended to represent any particular color or texture which may be
selected from any of
the colors or textures described in this specification. It is to be noted that
the color/texture
pattern on sheet 521 Y is symmetrical, with strips 522Y and 526Y having the
same color or
texture, and strips 523Y and 525Y having the same color or texture but
different than
strips 522Y and 526Y. Strip 524Y is likewise of a different color or texture
than any other
2 5 strip.
Because of the symmetry of color/texture strips in sheet 521 Y, there is no
need to stamp
out differently oriented link elements, since each link element 527Y has the
same
color/texture pattern in both orientations of the gap. Thus, an assembled rope
chain 536Y,
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shown in Figure 72Y, will have color/texture pattern correlation link-to-link,
and will
display a plurality of helical color/texture patterns along the rope chain
536Y.
In addition to multiple colored helixes, as described above, it will be noted
that in Figure
72Y, both sides of each channel 537Y has the color/texture of strips 522Y and
526Y
(Figure 68Y). Color/texture 524Y creates a thin helical stripe along the
extreme periphery
of each strand of the rope chain 536Y.
In the embodiments shown in Figures 66Y-72Y, five strips of materials, colors,
and/or
textures are shown, but any other number of strips can make up the multiple
strip sheets
511 Y and 521 Y. Further, while it has been suggested that any of the strips
512Y-516Y
l0 and 522Y-526Y can be different materials, different colors, and/or
different textures, when
different textures are selected for certain strips, the textured strips should
alternate with
non-textured strips. If all strips, or adjacent strips, were textured, even
with different types
of textures, the distinction between different textures will be difficult to
see and appreciate.
Additionally, while the orientations of the stamped link elements shown in
Figures 66Y-
68Y are such that the gaps are at 12:00 o'clock and 6:00 o'clock positions,
any angular
orientation is easily achieved by rotating the stamping die or the sheet of
material being
stamped, therefore producing link elements exhibiting an unlimited number of
different
patterns. Following the above methods of assembling multiple patterned link
elements,
the visual appearance of rope chains manufactured using such multiple
patterned link
2 o elements will be self evident to a person of ordinary skill in the art.
Figure 73Y is a plan view of a segment of a sheet of material having multiple
colored or
textured regions 542Y-546Y similar to that of Figures 66Y, 67Y, and 69Y.
However, only
every fifth link element 549Y in the rope chain shown in Figure 74Y is stamped
from
sheet 541 Y. A second sheet (not shown) having the same color/texture patterns
as sheet
2 5 541 Y but shifted laterally by one color/texture strip width is stamped to
produce link
elements SS1Y, also spaced every fifth link element position, and placed
adjacent link
elements 549Y made from sheet 541Y. Similarly, a third sheet (not shown)
having the
same patterns but shifted another colorltexture strip width is stamped to
produce link
elements 553Y, also spaced every fifth link element position, and placed
adjacent link
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elements SS1Y. Link elements 549Y, SS1Y, and 553Y are shown in Figure 75Y
oriented
with their gaps alternating from 12:00 o'clock to 6:00 o'clock as they would
be in the
assembly process. Another two sets of link elements (not shown) are stamped
from
another two separate sheets each having the color/texture pattern 542Y-546Y
shifted an
additional strip width. These additional two sets of link elements complete
the five sets of
distinctively color/texture striped link elements need to produce the rope
chain shown in
Figure 74Y. It is not necessary to show the color/texture patterns of the
latter two link
element sets in Figure 74Y, since their color/texture patterns and orientation
are self
evident from the description of the first three link elements 549Y, SS lY, and
553Y.
1 o The net result of assembling five different sets of link elements just
described is a rope
chain 547Y which exhibits a pleasing and surprisingly unique repeated pattern
of laterally
striped color/texture segments, as illustrated in Figure 74Y.
As will be understood by reference to Figure 75Y, rather than manufacturing
five different
mufti-striped sheets of material from which to stamp out the five differently
striped link
elements 549Y, SS1Y, 553Y, etc. (only three are shown), a single sheet of
material (not
shown) having nine strips in the order lY-2Y-3Y-4Y-SY-lY-2Y-3Y-4Y,
representing the
five different colors/textures, can be manufactured and stamped to produce all
five
different link elements from the same sheet to construct rope chain 547Y.
However,
considerable waste of precious metal would be involved, and the decision as to
how many
2 0 sheets of how many color/texture strips is left to the discretion of the
manufacturer.
Figure 76Y is a plan view of a sheet of material 561 Y from which curved
slices 563Y can
be cut and eventually formed into link elements. The purpose for this
methodology is to
minimize or completely eliminate cracking and stress blemishes that may result
in curling
a straight piece of precious metal into a "C" shaped link element (cf. Figure
30Y). By
2 5 starting with a partially curved stamped slice of material, less bending
is needed. Of
course, some small amount of waste in the regions 567Y, due to forming flat
ends 565Y
on the link element slices 563Y, will be realized, but this may be more than
offset by the
savings in damaged link elements made from straight wires or slices.
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Figure 77Y is a plan view of a sheet of material 571Y from which link elements
573Y and
575Y can be stamped, the link elements being interlinked in layout and
alternating in their
respective gap positions 577Y, 579Y. Shapes other than square are obviously
possible
using this stamping technique, and the sheet of material 571Y optionally can
be multi-
colored or multi-textured similar to those shown in Figures 66Y-68Y, 69Y, 71Y,
and 73Y.
Depending upon the shape of the link elements desired, and the gap width
needed, layouts
different than that shown in Figure 77Y will be self evident to a person of
ordinary skill in
the art. Interlinking in the manner shown and described serves to minimize
material waste.
It will be understood that, when link elements have specific edge designs or
patterns, such
as those shown in Figures 53Y-56Y, it may be preferable to not place them
against one
another. Otherwise, the designs or patterns will be covered up by adjacent
link elements.
A number of thinner than standard link elements (not shown) are perfectly
suited for
spacing out the aforementioned link elements having edge designs or patterns.
Additionally, it is known to diamond cut the edges of a completed rope chain
and coat,
with rhodium or other material, the flattened surfaces created by the diamond
cutting
process. By constructing a rope chain using, in part or in whole, serrated,
scored, or
knurled, link elements, and subsequently rhodium coating diamond cut surfaces,
a
dramatic increase in contrast is seen due to the softer yellow gold color of
the serrated,
scored, or knurled portions and the mirror-like finish of the coated diamond
cut portions of
2 0 the chain. Diamond cutting techniques can be easily adapted to the methods
of the present
invention, especially for those embodiments in which a sheet of material is
pre-textured
prior to stamping out link elements therefrom.
As has been suggested by the various embodiments and variations of the
invention
presented herein, the flexibility of design, appearance, and feel of a rope
chain
2 5 manufactured using the link elements shown and described can stimulate a
myriad of
possibilities. These attributes of a completed rope chain can be unique with
the present
invention. Creating similar attributes using prior art techniques would not be
considered
by the person of ordinary skill in the art, since all attempts to similarly
shape, color,
texture, or pattern a rope chain after it is completed would not be practical.
The
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uniqueness of a rope chain employing the link elements of the present
invention is made
possible by the provision of forming, shaping, or otherwise processing
individual link
elements prior to assembly. Exclusive finished rope chain attributes made
possible with
the present invention cannot be duplicated by applying post-assembled
processing steps,
whether a single type link element is used throughout the length of the rope
chain, or
multiple types of link elements are assembled in a particular or random order.
As suggested herein, any visual properly, as defined herein, may be combined
with any one
or more other visual properties in the manufacture of the various link
elements making up
the completed rope chain. Visual properties of any one portion of a link
element, or the
rope chain or a helical strand thereof, may include at least one of the group
consisting of
color, material, different gold karat weights, texture, shape, reflectivity,
pattern, size, and
design.
As previously mentioned, one object of the invention is to reduce the amount
of material
making up the individual link elements to reduce manufacturing costs, while
not detracting
from the beauty and effective size (diameter) of the finished rope chain.
Reducing
material can be accomplished in many ways: by removing material from or
forming edge
depressions in the entire or portions of the exterior edge; by removing
material from or
forming edge depressions in the entire or portions of the interior edge; by
removing
material from or forming surface depressions in one or both major link
surfaces; by
2 0 forming openings in or through the major link surfaces; or otherwise
narrowing the width
of the entire or portions of the link elements. In some embodiments of the
invention, part
or all of a link element may have a link width larger than standard but with
openings
provided therein to result in a net reduction of material making up the link
element.
Link thickness, as used herein, is defined as a distance between and
perpendicular to the
2 5 plane of the first and second major surfaces, and at least some of the
link elements in a
rope chain may have an irregular link thickness along the extent of the link
element. Link
elements have been described herein that possess irregular link thicknesses
along the
extent of the link elements due to impressions or the formation of surface
texturing. Such
link elements that bear surface ornamentation on each link element will cause
a rope chain
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to have a more decorative design than the conventional rope chain and yet use
less
precious metal than a standard link element without such irregular link
thickness.
The embodiments of the invention shown in the figures provide a basis for
appreciating the
virtually limitless number of configurations and shape and design patterns
that can be
produced in a rope chain structure by employing and creatively arranging the
differently
colored, patterned, textured, and/or shaped link elements such as those
depicted in the
accompanying drawings. Further variations and combinations of color patterns,
textures,
shapes, and configurations are possible and presumed to be within the teaching
of the
present invention.
Obviously, color, shape, texture, and overall configurations other than those
shown in the
accompanying figures are possible for the manufacture of the link elements,
and these are
merely examples of preferred visual property combinations which can produce
striking
results in a finished rope chain construction. For example, an interesting
variation of an
undulated shaped edge would be a scalloped edge. Accordingly, it is to be
understood that
the shape and design patterns shown in the accompanying figures, the types of
materials
used, the coloring, surface texture, surface patterns, arrangement of groups
and sets of link
elements along the rope chain, reversed or not, randomly assembled or in
strict accordance
with a repeated pattern, and the like are all contemplated possibilities and
are to be
considered within the scope of the present invention.
2 0 While only certain embodiments have been set forth, alternative
embodiments and various
modifications will be apparent from the above description to those skilled in
the art. For
example, while the colors and precious metals used in the descriptions herein
are preferred
to be yellow, white, rose, and green gold, other colors and metals, or even
non-metals, can
be employed in the construction of the disclosed rope chain configurations.
Notable
2 5 alternate materials, for example, are rhodium (in various colors), silver,
and nickel, either
solid or plated. Colored coatings may also be applied, such as enamel or
powder coating.
Several references to rhodium coating have been made in this description. It
is to be
understood that virtually any part of a finished rope chain, constructed from
any of the link
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elements shown in the accompanying figures can be rhodium or gold plated, or
coated with
any other preferred material or substance. Alternatively, if a rope chain is
made without
the application of heat to weld, or otherwise attach, adjacent link elements
together,
rhodium (or other material or substance) coating can be applied to the
individual link
elements prior to assembly, saving much labor expense which would otherwise be
required
with past assembly coating processes.
Rhodium; gold, or other precious metal plating may be applied by a variety of
commonly
known plating equipment and processes. For methods and equipment to plate
assembled
rope chains, reference is made to Pro-Craft~ Pen Platers, No. 45.400 and No.
45.403
l0 available from Gorbet USA~ Tools, Supplies and Equipment for Technicians
and
Craftsmen, through NK Supply, Inc. Jewelry Supplies 608 S. Hill St. Suite 602,
Los
Angeles, CA 90014. These pen platers can use formulated pen plating solutions,
also
available from Gorbet USA~, such as Gorbet USA~ No. 45.414 Pro-Craft~ plating
solution, for plating rhodium. Other pen plating solutions are available for
plating metals
other than rhodium plating solutions. For example Gorbet USA~ Nos. 45.410
through
45.412 are Pro-Craft~ gold plating solutions, and No. 45.415 is a Pro-Craft~
black
rhodium plating solution. .
Another method for plating rhodium, gold, or other precious metal on only one
helical
rope strand, or to selected portions, of an assembled rope chain plating
involves three
2 o major steps: protective coating all areas of an assembled rope chain that
are not to be
plated; immersing the partially protected chain in a plating bath (e.g., an
electro-plating
bath); and removing the protective coating. This results in a chain having
some non-plated
areas (that were protected) and some plated areas added by the plating
process. This
method is a widely known and therefore does not warrant listing sources for
plating
2 5 materials or plating equipment.
In lieu of rhodium or gold plating, the link elements, prior to assembly,
and/or the exterior
surface, or portions of the exterior surface, of one or both rope strands of
an assembled
length of rope chain can be colorized by a blackener process, by an oxidizer
process, or by
applying and curing a hard colored enamel. The above-mentioned Gorbet USA~
source
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112
supplies Jax~ Blackeners such as No. 45.906, Vigor~ Oxidizers such as No.
45.0329, and
CeramitTM low temperature curing, hard enamels such as No. 45.800.
All of the above-mentioned plating, blackening, oxidizing, and
enameling process result in either a visually attractive color coordinated
length of rope
chain, or a rope chain in which the different colors exhibited are in much
greater contrast
than conventional rope chains without any post assembly surface colorization.
It will also be understood that, for all of the link elements described herein
in which
segments of a link element have different link widths, either the relatively
smaller or
relatively larger, segment may be of standard size.
In the examples herein showing segmented link elements with one side having
different
physical characteristics than the other side, the drawings and accompanying
text referred to
the transition being opposite the placement of the gap. It is within the scope
of the present
invention to provide segmented regions having different physical
characteristics or
properties as described herein placed in other positions along the extent of
the link
elements. One example is providing a dividing line horizontally positioned in
any of the
accompanying figures. These and other alternatives are considered equivalents
and within
the spirit and scope of the present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE FOURTH EMBODIMENTS
Figure 1Z is a plan view of an annular link element used in the construction
of jewelry
2 0 rope chains as known in the prior art. In general, Figures 1Z-4Z depict a
conventional rope
chain arrangement (Figures 3Z and 4Z) and a typical annular link element
(Figures 1Z,
IAZ, 2Z, 2AZ, and 2BZ) employed as a basic building element in the
construction of a
rope chain. The baguette shaped link element 4Z in Figure 1 AZ may be used
alone or in
combination with standard annular link elements, such as shown in Figure 1Z,
to construct
2 5 a rope chain having an appealing appearance.
For the purposes of this description, the following definitions are provided.
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"Rope chain" is a series of sets of interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements which, after
assembly, have the appearance of a plurality of braided, or helically
intertwined, multi-
fiber strands of hemp, flax, or the like.
A "set" is the number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements making up a
structurally repeated assembly procedure along the chain. In the accompanying
drawing
and associated text, a four-link set is used for purposes of ease of visual
presentation and
description. The number of link elements in a set may be different than the
number of link
elements making up a repeated visual pattern along the chain.
A "group" is a number of adjacent interlinked, or interconnected, link
elements exhibiting
l0 identical visual properties. The number of link elements in a group may be
the same or
different than the number of link elements in a set. Groups may be uniformly
or randomly
distributed along the rope chain.
A "link element" is the basic building element of a rope chain, a number of
which are
assembled in a series of interconnected and overlapping link elements to form
the rope
chain. A link element is typically annular in shape with an open gap having a
span slightly
greater than the width of the annular link element. However, in accordance
with the
invention, a link element may have a circular, baguette, oval, diamond,
rectangular, square,
heart, or other geometrical shape, and each is provided with a gap at a
selected position
along the length thereof. Accordingly, while the link elements of a rope chain
are not
2 0 necessarily annular, it is the preferred configuration for the basic
building element of a
rope chain, and for that reason an annular link element will be used in most
of the
examples shown and described herein.
A "channel" is the path which the eye follows in passing along the rope chain
at the apex
of a V-shaped helical groove formed between the apparent intertwined rope
strands.
2 5 Hence, in the preferred embodiments described herein, the rope chain has
the appearance
of a pair of helically intertwined strands of ropes, and thus there exists two
such helical
channels offset from one another by one-half the pitch of either helix.
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A "visual property", as used herein, is a characteristic of an object which
presents a
particular visual image to the eye. Such characteristics include, but are not
limited to,
color, texture, pattern, and physical shape. Although shape is generally
considered a
physical properly of an object, in the art of jewelry making, it is often the
physical shapes
which impart beauty and delicateness to a fashion item.
In the accompanying figures, certain color lining is shown to distinguish the
various
embodiments depicted. The different colors represent different materials, such
as gold and
silver, as well as different surface treatments. Since the link elements can
be made of
virtually any metal, or even non-metals, and since surface treatments can take
on an
infinite number of color hues and saturations, it would be impossible to
illustrate all of the
possible color combinations contemplated. Accordingly, the color lining shown
in the
accompanying figures is intended to be exemplary only, and only color
differences are
intended to be conveyed when two different color linings are shown on the same
link
element or on the same length of rope chain. The treatment of text
descriptions should be
similarly interpreted. For example, when white gold is mentioned, silver,
rhodium, nickel,
or gold colors other than yellow must be understood to be equivalents.
Referring now to Figures 1Z and 2Z, an annular link element 1Z is shown to
have a
generally rectangular cross section (Figure 2Z) and a gap 3Z having sloping
edges, the
narrowest width of gap 3Z being slightly larger than the thickness of the
annular link
2 0 element 1 Z.
While conventional rope chains are constructed using annular link elements
having a
rectangular cross section as shown in Figure 2Z, variations with different
cross sectional
geometries are possible. Figures 2AZ and 2BZ depict two such variations. The
cross
section of tubular link element lAZ in Figure 2AZ is rectangular and hollow
(known from
2 5 U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517). Another variation is shown in Figure 2BZ in
which the
tubular link element 1BZ has a hollow circular cross section (known from U.S.
Patent No.
5,129,220). All of the link element embodiments and variations of the present
invention
illustrated in the accompanying drawing can be solid or hollow in cross
section, and may
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115
have any geometrical cross sectional shape. A non-limiting solid rectangular
cross section
is chosen as exemplary in the accompanying drawings for illustrative purposes
only.
Conventional rope chains, such as those shown in Figures 3Z and 4Z, are made
with a
systematic and repetitive interlinking of basic annular link elements 1Z.
Determining the
proper dimensions for the annular link element 1Z and the gap 3Z therein,
depending upon
the number of desired link elements to form a set of interlinked link
elements, can be
readily understood by reference to the aforementioned U.S. patents, especially
U.S. Patent
No. 4,651,517. As can be viewed in Figures 3Z and 4Z herein, the intertwined
link
elements 1Z of a segment of a conventional rope chain SZ are shown in Figures
3Z and 4Z
in the form of a four-link variety. In their assembled form, the series of
link elements 1 Z
produce the appearance of a first helical rope strand 7Z and a second helical
rope strand
8Z, the combination of which results in a double intertwined helical
appearance.
As best seen in Figures 3Z and 4Z, the apparent intertwining of a pair of
helical rope
strands 7Z and 8Z results in a V-shaped groove between the strands at any
position along
the length of rope chain. The path along the apex of such V-shaped groove is
referred to
herein as a "channel", and since there are two apparent rope strands 7Z and
8Z, there are,
likewise, two defined channels indicated in Figure 3Z by the directional
arrows lOZ and
12Z. Channel l OZ, along the length of the rope chain, defines a helix, as
does channel
12Z. However, the two channels never intersect one another and are parallel to
one
2 o another along the length of the rope chain separated axially by one half
of the pitch of
either of the two channels. In the prior art of Figures 3Z and 4Z, there is no
visual
difference between following along either of the two helical channels 1 OZ and
12Z, since
the rope chain is comprised of a repetitive series of sets of link elements
1Z, and all link
elements have the same visual property (they are all of the same color,
texture, and shape,
2 5 for example).
In Figure 4Z, the distance denoted by numeral 9Z encompasses the link elements
of a
repeated visual pattern as viewed from any fixed viewpoint in space. However,
typically,
it requires two "sets" of link elements to span the distance 9Z in Figure 4Z.
It will be
noted that link elements 11Z and 13Z lie in the same plane, but are angularly
displaced
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116
from one another along the link elements of the rope chain by 180°.
That is, following the
position of link element 11Z clockwise (as seen from the top) and downwardly,
it will be
observed that each subsequent link element is angularly spaced at a constant
22.5° angle.
Since there are four link elements per set, and typically two sets per
180° turn, in following
the link elements downwardly along the rope chain, link element 11Z will be
effectively
rotated 180° to assume the position of link element 13Z. As is clearly
visible in Figure 4Z,
a series of sets of link elements 1Z makes up the length of rope chain
illustrated.
In a six-link "set" (not shown), each subsequent link element is angularly
spaced at a
constant approximately 15° angle.
In the remaining figures of unique link elements to be described, Figures SZ
and 7Z-15Z
illustrate variations of link elements manufactured with a variety of
different appealing
visual properties.
In this connection, most of Figures SZ-29Z have portions lined or marked to
show the
colors of yellow gold, white gold or silver, rose (pink) gold, green gold, or
rhodium. For a
jewelry article such as a rope chain, the typical colors are yellow gold and
white gold, but
rose and/or green gold areas may also be popular, especially with younger
people.
Alternatively, or additionally, portions of a rope chain may be made of a non-
gold
material, e.g. silver, and any link element surface, or any rope strand
surface of the non-
gold material can be colorized after the rope chain is assembled. For example,
such non-
2 o gold material can be subjected to a process for applying a coating of
rhodium or other
substance to enhance its visual appearance, or it can be coated with a colored
enamel, or
treated with a blackener or an oxidizer or other surface treatment, the
blackener and
oxidizer treatments giving the treated material a dark color, e.g., gray to
black.
In all of the Figures SZ-29Z, the portions of the annular link elements, and
therefore the
2 5 length of rope chain, lined for gold colors may be the result of providing
a gold wire and
bending segments thereof to form link elements, or the result of stamping the
links out of a
single or multicolored gold strip, or the result of gold plating a metallic,
or even non-
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117
metallic, link element. Alternatively, the link elements may, for example, be
laminated
with a solid yellow gold layer and a solid white gold layer (see the
aforementioned U.S.
Patent Application No. 09/337,455). It is also within the scope of the present
invention to
use gapped link elements that have been enameled, rhodium coated, blackened,
oxidized,
or otherwise surface treated.
Figure SZ is a plan view of a first example of an annular link element showing
a pattern of
regions on a surface of a link element 31Z, exhibiting different visual
properties. In Figure
SZ, annular link element 31Z is divided along a line 37Z such that one half
33Z of the
annular link element 31Z between the dividing line 37Z and the gap 3Z is
yellow gold
l0 colored, while the other half 35Z is white gold colored.
Again (as with all variations shown in Figures SZ and 7Z-12Z), these colored
surfaces
33Z, 35Z may be differently plated, or each link element portion may be made
from a solid
precious metal such as yellow gold and white gold. In the latter case, the
gapped link
elements may be stamped from a multicolored flat sheet, striped with a number
of
alternately colored gold materials, or alternately striped with different
materials such as
gold and silver. Such a striped flat sheet may be stamped to form gapped link
elements in
different orientations relative to the stripe pattern and relative to the gap
position, resulting
in a variety of interesting colored patterns in the finished length of rope
chain, yet all such
link elements can be stamped from the same striped sheet.
2 0 Figure 6Z depicts an embodiment of a length of rope chain 91Z showing
alternate helical
strands 33Z, SSZ lined to show the color yellow gold alternating with the
color white gold,
or a gold material (e.g., 33Z in Figure SZ) alternating with a silver material
(35Z in Figure
SZ). The yellow gold and white gold, or silver, pattern shown in Figure 6Z for
the length
of rope chain 91Z is the result of assembling a series of annular link
elements 31Z in a
2 5 particular way. Since physical assembly requires every other link element
to be inverted
relative to its adjacent link element (see U.S. Patent No. 4,651,517), in
order to achieve the
two distinctly colored rope strands shown in Figure 6Z, during assembly every
other link
element is additionally reversed in orientation about the axis of the rope
chain. It will be
appreciated from the drawing of Figure 6Z that the link elements 31Z that are
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118
perpendicular to the page and shown as a yellow gold color will have a white
gold or silver
color as viewed from the rear thereof. Similarly, the white gold or silver
colored link
elements 31Z shown perpendicular to the page in Figure 6Z are yellow gold
colored in the
rear view thereof. Likewise, any link element 31Z having a yellow gold colored
exposed
surface to the right of the axis of rope chain 91Z in Figure 6Z will have a
white gold or
silver color on its exposed surface on the left side of the axis, and vice
versa. Accordingly,
following along channel l OZ for the entire length of the rope chain 91Z, the
right side of
the channel l OZ will be white gold or silver colored, and the left side will
be yellow gold
colored. Similarly, following along channel 12Z, the left side will be white
gold or silver,
and the right side will be yellow gold.
Thus, in the embodiment of Figure 6Z, although all annular link elements 31Z
are
identical, nevertheless, the visual appearance of the finished rope chain is
such that an
apparent yellow gold colored rope strand is intertwined with an apparent white
gold or
silver colored rope strand, lending an interesting and attractive alternately
colored
appearance along the rope chain 91 Z.
Figure 7Z is a plan view of a second example of an annular link element S 1Z
showing a
pattern of regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting different
visual properties.
In Figure 7Z, the annular link element S 1Z has a major curved portion SSZ and
a minor
curved portion 53Z of a yellow gold color, while a sector 57Z of the annular
link element
2 0 S 1 Z is lined for white gold or silver. A rope chain constructed of a
series of link elements
S1Z may have the appearance of an all yellow gold chain with a white gold or
silver
colored helical path running along the outer periphery of one of the rope
strands.
Figure 8Z is a plan view of a third example of an annular link element 71Z
showing a
pattern of regions on the surface of the link element exhibiting different
visual properties.
2 5 Figure 8Z shows another possibility in which annular link element 71Z has
a yellow gold
band 75Z, 76Z extending a short distance along a diameter of the link element
defining
separating lines 77Z-80Z, above which, a pair of curved portions 72Z, 73Z are
of white
gold or silver, and below which an arcuate portion of the link element 71Z is
also of white
gold or silver. A rope chain constructed of a series of link elements 71Z may
have the
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119
appearance of an all white gold or silver chain with small yellow gold helical
paths
running along the outer periphery of each rope strand.
Further variations of color patterns on the link elements are presented in
Figures 9Z-12Z.
Figures 9Z-12Z illustrate the possibility of manufacturing the annular link
elements with
either or both planar surfaces having different gold colored areas, shown for
example on
the link element 1202 of Figure 9Z symbolically, as yellow (y), white (w),
rose (r), and
green (g) areas. The link element 1222 of Figure l OZ is lined for the gold
colors white,
yellow, rose, and green for the respective regions 1232-1262.
Figure 11 Z shows a multicolored link element 1272 stamped from a multicolored
sheet
127AZ, link element 1272 exhibiting the color yellow gold in segments 1292 and
in strips
129AZ, and the color white gold or silver in segments 1282 and in strip 128AZ.
A rope
chain constructed using the link element 1272 may produce a primarily yellow
gold
colored rope chain having the outer periphery of one rope strand exhibiting a
white gold or
silver helix and one side of one channel of the rope chain also exhibiting
white gold or
silver.
Figure 12Z shows an annular link element 1322 having areas 1302 and 1312 with
variations in color, in this example yellow gold areas 1302 and white gold or
silver areas
1312. A rope chain constructed using links 1322 may exhibit yellow gold
channels and
white gold or silver helixes in the peripheries of both rope strands.
2 0 Figure 13Z is a plan view of a link element 1 S 1Z formed with one side
1552 larger than
the other side 1532, the transition at 1592 between the two sides 153Z,155Z
being a
smooth transition, and the link width at the gap 1582 and transition region
1592 being of
standard width. The dashed line 1572 indicates the location of the exterior
surface of side
1552 if it were not enlarged. When a number link elements 1512 are assembled
into a
2 5 length of rope chain, one of the helical rope chain strands will appeax to
have a larger
diameter due to the larger link element width of side 1552, and the other
helical rope chain
strand will appear to have a smaller diameter.
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120
Figure 14Z is a plan view of a link element 1612 formed with one side 1652
larger than
the other side 1632, the relatively abrupt transition 1692 between the two
sides 163Z,165Z
located on the larger link side. The dashed line 1672 indicates where the
location of the
exterior surface of side 1632 would be if not reduced in width. The reduction
of precious
metal in forming the thinner side 1632 contributes greatly to lowering the
cost of a
finished rope chain employing perhaps hundreds of such link elements. When a
number of
link elements 1612 are assembled into a length of rope chain, one of the
helical rope chain
strands will appear to have a larger diameter due to the larger link element
width of side
1652, and the other helical rope chain strand will appear to have a smaller
diameter.
Figure 15Z is a plan view of a link element 1712 formed with one side 1752
larger than
the other side 1732, the relatively abrupt transition 1782 between the two
sides 173Z,175Z
located on the smaller link side. The dashed line 1772 indicates where the
location of the
exterior surface of side 1732 would be if not reduced. The reduction of
precious metal in
forming the thinner side 1732 contributes greatly to lowering the cost of a
finished rope
chain employing perhaps hundreds of link elements. When a number link elements
1712
are assembled into a length of rope chain, one of the helical rope chain
strands will appear
to have a larger diameter due to the larger link element width of side 1752,
and the other
helical rope chain strand will appear to have a smaller diameter. Figures 23Z
and 24Z are
examples which are yet to be described.
2 0 Because the transition 1782 is on the narrower link side 1732 as shown in
Figure 1 SZ, the
assembled length of rope chain will be tighter than a length of rope chain
assembled using
the link elements 1612 shown in Figure 14Z. This more desirable characteristic
for rope
chains comes at a price, however, i.e., the additional precious metal needed
to extend the
wider side 1752 up to the transition region 1782.
2 5 Further varieties of unique colored, textured, or configured link elements
other than those
shown are possible depending upon the creativity of the jewelry designer
following the
general concepts presented herein, and reference is made to the aforementioned
U.S.
Patent Application Nos. 09/287,972 and 09/337,455.
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121
Examples of a completed length of rope chain, other than those shown in the
accompanying drawing, using combinations of the color patterns and
configurations for the
link elements shown in Figures SZ and 7Z-15Z are left to the artisan having
the knowledge
of the examples given in this specification to follow for guidance.
After the assembly of a rope chain is completed, portions of the chain may be
selectively
colorized or textured by post assembly processing. For example, portions of a
rope chain
may be selectively rhodium coated, or plated, to enhance the brilliance and
luster of the
coated part. In Figure 6Z, for example, after construction, the non-gold rope
strand 35'Z
(e.g., silver or other non-gold metal) comprised of the non-gold halves 35Z of
each link
l0 element 31Z (Figure SZ) may be coated with rhodium which brightens the non-
gold helix
35'Z and dramatically increases the contrast between the rhodium coated helix
35'Z and the
yellow gold helix 33'Z. To the eye, such increased contrast effect makes the
yellow gold
helix 33'Z appear to be even more yellow in color. This synergistic enhanced
visual effect
is in addition to beneficially rendering the cost of the completed rope chain
much lower.
It is to be understood that, in this description, any suggestion to colorize
one or both rope
strands of an assembled length of rope chain includes: colorizing the entire
outer surface of
a rope strand; or colorizing a portion of the rope strand, such as, but not
limited to, just the
outer periphery of the rope strand, or just the common channel region between
rope
strands.
2 0 Rhodium, gold, or other precious metal plating may be applied to only one
helical rope
strand, or to selected portions, of an assembled rope chain by a variety of
methods and
equipment, and reference is made to Pro-Craft~ Pen Platers, No. 45.400 and No.
45.403
available from Gorbet USA~ Tools, Supplies and Equipment for Technicians and
Craftsmen, through NK Supply, Inc. Jewelry Supplies 608 S. Hill St. Suite 602,
Los
2 5 Angeles, CA 90014. These pen platers can use formulated pen plating
solutions, also
available from Gorbet USA~, such as Gorbet USA~ No. 45.414 Pro-Craft~ plating
solution, for plating rhodium. Other pen plating solutions are available for
plating metals
other than rhodium plating solutions. For example Gorbet USA~ Nos. 45.410
through
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122
45.412 are Pro-Craft~ gold plating solutions, and No. 45.415 is a Pro-Craft~
black rhodium
plating solution.
Another method for plating rhodium, gold, or other precious metal on only one
helical
rope strand, or to selected portions, of an assembled rope chain plating
involves three
major steps: protective coating all areas of an assembled rope chain that are
not to be
plated; immersing the partially protected chain in a plating bath (e.g., an
electro-plating
bath); and removing the protective coating. This results in a chain having
some non-plated
areas (that were protected) and some plated areas added by the plating
process. This
method is a widely known and therefore does not warrant listing sources for
plating
materials or plating equipment.
In lieu of rhodium or gold plating, the exterior surface, or portions of the
exterior surface,
of one or both rope strands of an assembled length of rope chain can be
colorized by a
blackener process, by an oxidizer process, or by applying and curing a hard
colored
enamel. The aforementioned Gorbet USA~ source supplies Jax~ Blackeners such as
No.
45.906, Vigor~ Oxidizers such as No. 45.0329, and Ceramit~ low temperature
curing,
hard enamels such as No. 45.800.
All of the above-mentioned plating, blackening, oxidizing, and
enameling process result in either a visually attractive color coordinated
length of rope
chain, or a rope chain in which the different colors exhibited are in much
greater contrast
2 0 than conventional rope chains without any post assembly surface
colonization.
Examples of colorized lengths of rope chain are shown in the accompanying
Figures 16Z-
33Z.
Figure 16Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 1812 showing,
in the top
portion thereof, before colonization, both rope strands 1832, 1852 being of
any color (the
2 5 color yellow gold being representative) and, in the bottom portion
thereof, below the
dividing line 1872, after colonization, one of the rope strands 1892 is the
color of rhodium,
and the other rope strand 1902 is without color change, i.e., it is the same
as at 1832. The
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rhodium may be plated onto rope strand 1892 as shown in Figure 16Z, or onto
any rope
strand shown in any of the figures yet to be described and which are intended
to exhibit the
color of rhodium, using a plating process employing one of the aforementioned
pen
platens.
Figure 17Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 1912 showing,
in the top
portion thereof, before colonization, both rope strands 1932, 1952 being of
any color (the
color yellow gold being representative), and, in the bottom portion thereof,
below the
dividing line 1972, after colonization, one of the rope strands 1992 is of a
color different
than its original color, and the other rope strand 2002 is without color
change, i.e., it is the
l0 same as at 1932. Rope strand 1992 may be colorized by any one of the above-
mentioned
surface treating processes, including rhodium plating, plating with other
metals such as
gold of a particular gold karat weight or gold of differing gold karat
weights, treating the
surface with a blackener, with an oxidizer, or by coating the rope strand with
enamel.
Application of a blackener treatment on silver or gold will produce a dark,
black antique
finish, while application of an oxidizer on silver or gold will produce all
shades from
French gray to black. With the application of a low temperature curing, hard
enamel, the
rope strand surface to be colorized can be changed to virtually any desired
color.
Figure 18Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 201 Z
showing, in the top
portion thereof, before colonization, one rope strand 2052 is of any color
other than yellow
2 0 gold and the other rope strand 2032 is of the color yellow gold, and, in
the bottom portion
thereof, below the dividing line 2072, after colonization, the non-yellow gold
rope strand
2092 is the color of rhodium, and the other rope strand 2102 is without color
change, i.e.,
it is the same as at 2032. In the case where rope strand 2052 is made of
silver or other
metal lower in cost than gold, and rope strand 2052 is rhodium plated, a
beautiful finished
2 5 rope chain will result exhibiting an attractive contrast between the
untreated yellow gold
rope strand 2102 and the bright rhodium treated rope strand 2092. Yet, the
cost of the
rope chain is significantly less than a chain assembled with all yellow gold
link elements.
Figure 19Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2112 showing,
in the top
portion thereof, before colonization, one rope strand 2152 is of any color
other than yellow
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gold and the other rope strand 2132 is of the color yellow gold, and, in the
bottom portion
thereof, below the dividing line 2172, after colonization, the non-yellow gold
rope strand
2192 is of a color different than its original color, and the other rope
strand 2202 is
without color change, i.e., it is the same as at 2132. As with the length of
rope chain
shown in Figure 17Z, the coloring of rope strand 2192 may be achieved by any
one of the
aforementioned processes including treating the surface with a blackener or
oxidizer, or by
applying a coat of enamel.
Figure 20Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2212 showing,
in the top
portion thereof, before colonization, one rope strand 2232 is yellow gold of a
relatively
small gold karat weight and the other rope strand 2252 is yellow gold of a
relatively larger
gold karat weight, and, in the bottom portion thereof, below the dividing line
2272, after
colonization, one rope strand 2302 is the color of rhodium, and the other rope
strand 2292
is without color change, i.e., it is the same as at 2252. A finished rope
chain employing
this method of manufacture can be described as an all gold chain, with one
rope strand
highlighted by a plate of rhodium. Again, a cost savings is realized by the
use of a lower
grade of gold under the plated rhodium.
Figure 21 Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2312
showing, in the top
portion thereof, before colonization, one rope strand 2332 is yellow gold of a
relatively
small gold karat weight and the other rope strand 2352 is yellow gold of a
relatively larger
2 0 gold karat weight, and, in the bottom portion thereof, below the dividing
line 2372, after
colonization, one rope strand 2402 is of a color different than its original
color, and the
other rope strand 2392 is without color change, i.e., it is the same as at
2352. A finished
rope chain employing this method of manufacture can be described as an all
gold chain,
with one rope strand highlighted by treatment with a blackener or oxidizer, or
colored with
2 5 a coat of hard enamel. Cost savings is realized by the use of a lower
grade of gold under
the treated or coated rope strand.
Figure 22Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2412 showing,
in the top
portion thereof, before colonization, one rope strand 2432 is yellow gold of a
relatively
small gold karat weight and the other rope strand 2452 is yellow gold of a
relatively larger
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gold karat weight, and, in the bottom portion thereof, below the dividing line
2472, after
colonization, both rope strands 2492, 2502 are of the same gold color and, at
least on the
surface, of the same gold karat weight. A finished rope chain employing this
method of
manufacture may be described as an all gold chain, with one rope strand
brought to a high
karat gold weight by gold plating the originally lesser gold karat weight rope
to match that
of the other untreated strand. Cost savings is realized by the use of a lower
grade of gold
under the gold plated rope strand.
Figure 23Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2512,
constructed of link
elements of the type shown in Figures 13Z-15Z, or other similar
configurations. Shown in
l0 Figure 23Z, in the top portion thereof, before colonization, is one rope
strand 2532 of any
color and of a relatively large diameter. The other rope strand 2552 is of any
color and of
a relatively small diameter. In the bottom portion thereof, below the dividing
line 2572,
after colonization, the small diameter rope strand 2592 is the color of
rhodium, and the
other, larger, rope strand 2602 is without color change, i.e., it is the same
as at 2532. This
construction conserves precious metal in two ways, first by using less metal
in the smaller
rope chain strand, and second by plating the small rope chain strand, which
may be made
from a non-gold material, with rhodium to enhance its appearance. Preferably,
rope strand
2532 is of yellow gold.
Figure 24Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2612 showing,
in the top
2 0 portion thereof, before colonization, one rope strand 2632 is of any color
and of a
relatively large diameter and the other rope strand 2652 is of any color and
of a relatively
smaller diameter, and, in the bottom portion thereof, below the dividing line
2672, after
colonization, the large diameter rope strand 2702 is the color of rhodium, and
the other,
smaller, rope strand 2692 is without color change, i.e., it is the same as at
2652. This
2 5 construction has similar advantages mentioned in connection with Figure
23Z, the only
difference being that the larger diameter rope strand is rhodium plated
instead of the
smaller one. This makes the overall look of the chain more brilliant and to
have
exceptional luster.
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Figures 25Z-33Z depict embodiments of the invention wherein not all of a rope
strand is
treated with a change of color. In these figures, an all yellow gold rope
chain is selected as
a base for further color processing. It will be understood, however, that any
color or any
material suitable for the construction of a rope chain can be selected for the
manufacture of
the link elements making up the chain.
In any event, portions of one or both rope chain strands are treated after
assembly using
any one or more of the aforementioned processes of rhodium plating,
application of
blackeners or oxidizers, coating with enamels, and gold plating.
In the specific examples of Figures 25Z-29Z, yellow gold rope strands are
selected as the
l0 basis upon which a stripe of rhodium is plated along a helical path along
either or both
helical rope strands. Although the figures show a continuous line along either
or both
helical strands, the stripes of rhodium may be intermittently applied
according to any
desired pattern. Similarly any combination of striping among the figures can
be chosen for
unusual effects. Thus, the particular patterns shown in Figures 25Z-29Z are
not intended
to be limiting.
Figure 25Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2712 showing
the color of
yellow gold for both rope strands 2732, 2752. A helical stripe 2772 the color
of rhodium
is superimposed on one of the rope strands 2752.
Figure 26Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2812 showing
the color of
2 0 yellow gold for both rope strands 2832, 2852. Helical stripes 2872 and
2892,
respectively, the color of rhodium are superimposed on the rope strands 2832
and 2852.
Figure 27Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 2912 showing
the color of
yellow gold for both rope strands 2932, 2952. A helical stripe 2972 the color
of rhodium
is superimposed on one side 2992 of one channel 3002 between rope strands.
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Figure 28Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 3012 showing
the color of
yellow gold for both rope strands 3032, 3052. A helical stripe 3072 the color
of rhodium
is superimposed on both sides 3092 of one channel 3102 between rope strands.
Figure 29Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 3112 showing
the color of
yellow gold for both rope strands 3132, 3152. A helical stripe 3162 the color
of rhodium
is superimposed on both sides 3182 of one channel 3212 between rope strands,
and a
helical stripe 3172 the color of rhodium is superimposed on both sides 3192 of
the other
channel 3202 between rope strands.
Figures 30Z and 31Z are, respectively, a front elevational view and an end
view of another
l 0 length of rope chain 3412 showing cut portions 3432, 3452, 3472, and 3492
on four
sides, the cut portions defining linear paths along the length of rope chain
3412 extending
parallel to the rope chain axis 3712. In Figures 30Z and 31Z, the plane of cut
portions
3432, 3452, 3472, and 3492 are all equidistant from the axis 3712, and widths
of the
linear paths they follow define flat surfaces on certain link elements
342Z,344Z making up
the length of rope chain 3412 shown by example with reference numerals 3512,
3532,
3552, 3572, 3592, and 3612. Link elements 3422 and 3442 are shown to be
representative of those link elements that form the separate rope chain
strands, one strand
being made up of link elements 3422 and the other strand made up of link
elements 3442.
The cut, or faceted, portions 3432, 3452, 3472, and 3492 may be formed in any
desired
2 0 way. A preferred way is to diamond cut four linear paths of cut portions
3432, 3452,
3472, and 3492 by first laying the length of rope chain 3412 out taught
between two
guides, or by stretching the chain taught around a drum, and then diamond
cutting one
linear path 3432 for example. The chain is then rotated 90° and a
second linear path 3452
is diamond cut. The process is continued until all four paths are diamond cut.
2 5 Instead of cutting continuous linear paths of cut portions 3432, 3452,
3472, and 3492
along the length of rope chain 3412, any or all paths can be cut
intermittently along the
length of chain. This permits the eye to see more non-plated surfaces, such as
yellow gold,
and allows deeper cuts without displaying too much shiny rhodium plating which
may be
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overpowering if the cuts on all four sides are deep and plated. Intermittent
linear cutting
would also be beneficial for the eight facet variation of the invention shown
in Figures 32Z
and 36Z yet to be described, for the same reasons.
After diamond cutting the four paths of cut portions 3432, 3452, 3472, and
3492, the flat
edge portions 3512, 3532, 3552, etc. may optionally be colorized to enhance
the beauty of
the rope chain. Colorization may include plating the flat edge portions 3512,
3532, 3552,
etc. with rhodium or gold, or the flat edge portions 3512, 3532, 3552, etc.
may be surface
treated with a blackener or oxidizer, or the edge portion may be enameled, any
of such
process being conducted in the manner hereinbefore described.
The length of rope chain 341 Z so produced may thus be constructed of all
yellow gold link
elements, and a bright rhodium plating on the diamond cut surfaces presents a
highly
desirable contrast difference in color along the chain, enhancing its
appearance and
rendering it more desirable to a prospective purchaser.
Figure 32Z is an end view of another embodiment of rope chain 3812 showing cut
portions on eight sides 3832-3902. In Figure 32Z, the path width of the
diamond cut, for
example, is smaller than that of Figures 30Z and 31Z, due to the larger number
of facets
involved. The link elements in between those that show flat cut edges are not
affected by
the diamond cutting procedure.
A side view of the embodiment according to Figure 32Z is not shown or
necessary, since
2 0 such a view would be self evident to a person skilled in the jewelry art
as to precisely how
a side view would appear, especially after observing the side view of the four
faceted rope
chain segment shown in Figure 30Z.
The eight faceted rope chain of Figure 32Z is particularly attractive when a
yellow gold
chain is diamond cut along the eight small width paths and then plated with
rhodium. The
2 5 overall look is a primarily yellow gold chain with thin delicate paths of
contrasting bright
rhodium accenting the appearance of the chain.
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As with the previous embodiment, the diamond cut paths of Figure 32Z are all
parallel to
the axis 3822 and equidistant therefrom. The process for forming the flat
surfaces 383Z-
3902 may be the same as that described in connection with Figures 30Z and 31Z,
except
the chain will be rotated about its axis 45° seven times after the
first cut along the chain.
Also, the distance of the diamond cutter tool to the axis 3822 will be
greater.
Colorizing the cut edges may be performed in the same manner described in
connection
with Figures 30Z and 31Z.
Figure 33Z is an end view of another embodiment of rope chain 3912 showing cut
portions 3932-4002 on four sides, the cut portions defining linear paths along
the length of
to rope chain 3912 extending parallel to the rope chain axis 3712: In Figure
33Z, the cut
portions 3932 and 3972, on opposite sides of the chain, are equidistant from
the axis
3922. Similarly, the planes of cut portions 3942-3962 and 3982-4002, on
opposite sides
of the chain are also equidistant from the axis 3712. However, the planes of
cut portions
3942-3962 and 3982-4002 are closer to the axis 3922 than the cut portions 3932
and
3972. As a result, the widths of adjacent linear paths defined by the diamond
cut portions
are different, and when rhodium plated, give a unique appearance to the chain
in the form
of alternate large and small width bright rhodium paths extending along a
yellow gold
chain, for example.
A side view of the embodiment according to Figure 33Z is not shown or
necessary, since
2 o such a view would be self evident to a person skilled in the jewelry art
as to precisely how
a side view would appear, especially after observing the side view of the four
faceted rope
chain segment shown in Figure 30Z.
The cut, or faceted, portions 3932-4002 may be formed in any desired way. A
preferred
way is to diamond cut four linear paths of cut portions by first laying the
length of rope
2 5 chain 3912 out taught between two guides, or by stretching the chain
taught around a
drum, and then diamond cutting one linear path 3932 for example at a
prescribed distance
from the axis 3922. The chain is then rotated 180° and a second linear
path 3972 is
diamond cut. The chain is then rotated 90°, the cutter is moved closer
to the axis 3922, and
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a third linear path (in the plane of cut portions 3942-396Z) is diamond cut.
The chain is
then rotated 180° and a fourth linear path (in the plane of cut
portions 3982-400Z)is
diamond cut.
Colorizing the cut edges may be performed in the same manner described in
connection
with Figures 30Z and 31Z.
The length of rope chain 3412 so produced may thus be constructed of all
yellow gold link
elements, and a bright rhodium plating on the diamond cut surfaces presents a
highly
desirable contrast difference in color along the chain, enhancing its
appearance and
rendering it more desirable to a prospective purchaser.
l0 In Figures 30Z-33Z, and in the descriptions of such figures, it is assumed
that the link
elements 342Z,344Z are all annular links with constant annular widths.
Employing non-
symmetrical link elements, such as those shown in Figures 13Z-15Z, rope chains
such as
those shown in Figure 23Z and 24Z can be constructed, with one rope strand of
a relatively
large diameter and the other rope strand of a relatively small diameter.
Applying post
assembly diamond cutting and colorization techniques, interesting and
attractive patterns
on the finished rope chain can be accomplished.
For example, Figures 34Z-37Z are near duplicates of Figures 30Z-33Z, except
that the
rope chains of Figures 34Z-37Z are constructed of link elements like those of
Figures 13Z-
15Z to produce one rope strand of a relatively large diameter and the other
rope strand of a
2 0 relatively small diameter. A full understanding of Figures 34Z-37Z can be
appreciated by
the description to follow and by the fact that prime numbers have been used to
designate
like details to those of Figures 30Z-33Z discussed above.
Using such a wide/narrow link element configuration, the assembled rope chain
can be
subjected to a diamond cutting procedure, and such diamond cuts will be
effective to
2 5 remove precious metal only on the wider halves of the individual link
elements, in Figures
34Z-37Z, these being link elements 342'Z. Link elements 344'Z are of a smaller
diameter,
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131
and the corresponding smaller diameter rope chain strand is unaffected by the
diamond
cutting procedure.
As a result, with four and eight faceted linear diamond cuts along the length
of the rope
chain 341'Z, every other rope strand is faceted, and every in-between strand
is not faceted,
producing an interesting visual effect. The diamond cutting of one rope strand
and not the
other can best be seen in the end views of Figures 35Z-37Z. Of course, if
desired, the
diamond cuts can be made deeper, or the smaller diameter rope strand can be
made larger
such that both the relatively larger and smaller strands are diamond cut. If
the smaller
diameter strand is only slightly diamond cut, i.e. at the outer peripheries of
the link
l0 elements 344'Z, an attractive combination of wide band cuts and narrow band
cuts will
result.
As with the colonization of rope chain strands or portions of rope chain
strands heretofore
shown and described, the diamond cut portions of the rope chains shown in
Figures 34Z-
37Z can be similarly colorized employing the methods and materials for gold
plating,
rhodium plating, blackening, oxidizing, and enameling. Additionally, in the
rope chain
examples of Figures 34Z-37Z, an extra dimension of colonization is made
possible. For
example, a rope chain can be produce having a yellow gold large diameter rope
strand
342'Z and a less expensive silver small diameter rope strand 344'Z. After
assembly and
diamond cutting as shown in Figures 34Z and 35Z, the large diameter gold
strand 3422
2 0 may have its diamond cut edges rhodium plated, and a blackener can be
applied to the
entire smaller diameter silver rope strand, giving a three-color highly unique
rope chain
pattern in which the yellow gold portion is prominent, with a rhodium streak
intermittently
showing on the gold strand, and the smaller strand of a darker color.
Figure 38Z is yet another example of length of rope chain 4012 that has unique
coloration
and patterned features. Like rope chain 3412, it is made up link elements to
produce a
relatively large diameter strand 4032 alternating with a relatively small
diameter strand
4052. Instead of diamond cutting a linear path parallel to the axis of the
rope chain, the
chain 4012 is subjected to selective diamond cutting along the periphery of
the larger
diameter strand 4032. This produces a helical diamond cut path along the outer
periphery
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132
of strand 4032. After colorization of the diamond cut portions 4072, a yet
further unique
rope chain results. This model of rope chain can be further enhanced by
employing other
techniques and procedures noted above, concerning the change of depth of the
diamond
cut, the type and color choice of the colorization procedure, and treating the
smaller
diameter strand 4052 differently than that of the larger diameter strand 4032.
It is to be understood that the diamond cut paths shown in Figures 30Z-38Z can
be of any
practical width, at the discretion of the jewelry designer.
Additionally, rather than forming a flat, or planar, diamond cut path, any
desired
configuration of the cutter can be chosen to produce, for example, concave,
convex,
stepped, rounded, or serrated edge surfaces on the link elements comprising
the rope chain.
Although it has been described that the length of rope chain is held taught
while forming
linear paths parallel to the axis, completed rope chains have much
flexibility, and it is
inherent in rope chains that some twisting, in use, is natural and expected.
Thus, while the
diamond cut paths are made in a linear pass along the length of the rope chain
during the
cutting procedure, in use the paths may take on variable orientations arid
configurations.
This characteristic of rope chains adds to the visual attraction of the
jewelry article, since
otherwise the chain would exhibit all parallel lines and lose the glitter and
surprising light
reflecting phenomenon associated with flexible rope chains.
Figure 39Z is a front elevational view of a length of rope chain 4112 which
has portions
2 0 colored subsequent to assembly of the link elements making up the chain.
Employing any
of the plating methods described herein, whole segments of chain are plated
around the
entire body of the chain segment for a prescribed length, alternating with
segments that are
not plated. For example, in the embodiment shown in Figure 39Z, a rope chain
4112,
initially constructed of solid yellow gold link elements, has a short non-
plated segment
2 5 4132 followed by a short rhodium plated segment 4132, then another non-
plated segment
4172, and then another rhodium plated segment 4192, etc., giving the finished
rope chain
a "zebra" look. For purposes of illustration only, the plated and non-plated
segments are
all one full helical turn in length. It is to be understood that any length of
plated segments
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alternating with any length of non-plated segments are contemplated, at the
discretion of
the jewelry designer, while maintaining the "zebra" pattern.
If desired, the jewelry designer may choose to give any of the described
embodiments of
the finished rope chain a soft lusterless appearance, i.e., instead of rhodium
coating to
increase reflectivity and brilliance, the finished rope chain may be
mechanically or
chemically treated so as to have a sandblast, matt, or frost like finish. Such
surface
texturing can be achieved by selectively acid etching one rope strand or
portions thereof, or
by electro-etching away surface material in the manner of EDM electro-
machining, or by
applying a surface ablating or surface furbishing or surface grinding with a
small rotary
l0 tool or diamond cutting tool.
Another possibility with the present invention is the ability to assemble
virtually any color,
texture, or shape combination along the length of the rope chain not grouped
into patterns
correlated with the number of links elements in a set. That is, a
color/texture/shape
combination, repeated or not, may extend along any number of link elements and
not be
bounded by the chosen number of link elements per set. One example of this is
a length of
rope chain having color patterns in groups of thirteen link elements, while a
set for this
particular length of rope chain may comprise four link elements. Moreover, it
is within the
scope of the present invention to construct a length of rope chain with sets
made up of
different numbers of link elements, e.g., 4-link, 6-link, and 8-link sets may
be assembled in
2 o the construction of the same rope chain.
The embodiments of the invention shown in Figures 16Z-38Z provide a basis for
appreciating the virtually limitless design patterns that can be produced by
arranging the
differently colored, patterned, or textured annular link elements such as
those shown in
Figures SZ and 7Z-15Z in a rope chain structure and optionally applying a
coating or
2 5 otherwise treating the surface or a portion of the surface of one or both
rope strands of an
assembled length of rope chain.
Obviously, color and texture configurations other than those shown in Figures
SZ and 7Z-
15Z are possible for the manufacture of the annular link elements, and these
are merely
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examples of preferred visual property combinations which can produce striking
results in a
finished rope chain construction. Accordingly, it is to be understood that the
patterns
shown, the types of materials used, the coloring, implied surface texture and
surface
patterns, arrangement of groups and sets of link elements along the length of
rope chain,
reversed or not, randomly assembled or in strict accordance with a repeated
pattern, and
the like are all contemplated possibilities and are to be considered within
the scope of the
present invention.
In some embodiments described in this specification and shown in the
accompanying
drawing, only one helical rope strand is colorized or textured, in whole or in
part. The
benefits of this processing and construction have been detailed above. It is
intended that
the same concepts of the invention can be applied to embodiments where both
strands are
colorized or textured, in whole or in part. For example, a rope chain made
with low karat
weight yellow gold for both strands may be subjected to a rhodium plating on
one rope
strand and a high karat weight plating on the other strand. Similarly, one
strand can be
high gold karat weight plated and the other strand could be subjected to the
application of
a blackener or oxidizer, or coated with hard enamel. It is thus to be
understood that any
process or construction described herein directed to coloring or texturing
only a single rope
strand applies equally well to coloring or texturing both rope strands.
Moreover, multiple treatments of one or both strands of a length of rope chain
are within
2 0 the scope of the present invention. For example, any of the embodiments
described in the
previous paragraph, or similar embodiments, resulting in a yellow gold or
relatively dark
color after treating both rope strands could be subjected to yet another
treatment for one or
both rope chains in the manner of rhodium striping as shown in Figures 25Z-
29Z.
Thus, while only certain embodiments have been set forth, alternative
embodiments and
2 5 various modifications will be apparent from the above description to those
skilled in the
art.
While the colors and precious metals used in the descriptions herein are
preferred to be
yellow, white, rose, and green gold, other colors and other metals, or even
non-metals, can
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be employed in the construction of the disclosed rope chain configurations.
Notable
alternate materials, for example, are rhodium (in various colors), silver, and
nickel, either
solid or plated.
The link elements, and/or rope strands after assembly may be enameled using
any
selectable colored or clear enamel. Similarly, the links and/or rope strands
after assembly
may be subjected to a surface treatment using blackeners or oxidizers or
enamels.
In this connection, new colorization process are continually being developed,
and such
new colorization processes can be employ in carrying out the inventions
equally as well as
those specifically described herein. Such new colorization processes may
include coloring
agents molecularly bonding with the material, or coloring agents penetrating
the surface of
the material to be embedded several microns below the surface, forming an
integral part of
the material being colored. The invention is thus not to be considered limited
to the
specific products and processes shown and described in this specification.
The examples herein of gapped link elements with a rectangular cross section
are not to be
considered limiting. Virtually any cross sectional configuration can be
produced for the
gapped link elements while maintaining an overall annular configuration, or
other
configuration not unlike the examples shown in Figures 16Z-33Z. An attractive
rope
chain, for example, may be formed using annular gapped link elements having a
circular
cross section, solid or tubular, resulting in a "soft feel" rope chain with
brilliant light
2 0 reflection patterns.
In this connection, if desired, the interior peripheral edges of the link
elements shown in
Figures SZ and 7Z-15Z may be circular, as shown, or non-circular, leaving the
exterior
peripheral edges as shown. Alternatively, any combination of circular and non-
circular
interior peripheral edges and circular and non-circular exterior peripheral
edges of the link
2 5 elements employed in the construction of a rope chain employing the
concepts of the
present invention are possible, provided the link elements can be assembled in
a rope chain
fashion.
CA 02372630 2001-12-31
WO 00/59328 PCT/US00/09202
136
These and other alternatives are considered equivalents and within the spirit
and scope of
the present invention.
