Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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THE USE OF PLANT EXTRACTS IN A COSMETIC COMPOSITION TO
PROTECT KERATINOUS FIBERS
This application is a continuation-in-part of co-pending U.S. Application
Serial No. 09/527,599, filed March 17, 2000, which is hereby incorporated by
reference in its entirety.
The present invention is directed to a composition for keratinous fibers
and to methods of treating keratinous fibers with the composition in order to
provide protection from extrinsic damage and to provide improved styling
properties and other qualities. For example, the inventive composition can
provide protection to hair while improving combability and curl formation.
More
particularly, the present invention is directed to a composition comprising
plant
extracts that provides protection benefits to keratinous fibers, including
hair,
eyelashes, and eyebrows.
Keratinous fibers, especially hair, are constantly exposed to harsh
extrinsic conditions such as sun, chemical damage, e.g., from detergents,
bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving, and heat, e.g., from hair
dryers or curlers. These external factors generally result in damage to the
keratinous fibers. There is a need, therefore, for cosmetic products that are
useful in restoring and protecting keratinous fibers from such harsh extrinsic
conditions.
In this age of the immense popularity of "natural" based consumer
products, specific groups of plant extracts have been identified for their
"healing"
or protecting properties with regard to keratinous tissue. In particular,
plant
extracts have been used in numerous skin care compositions such as:
compositions containing carrot, tomato, tobacco, bean or potato extracts for
the
repair of sun damaged skin (U.S. Patent No. 5,547,997); compositions
containing
actzuki bean, catechu, or avocado extracts for preventing and improving
multiple
skin conditions (European Patent EP965328 A1 ); compositions containing herbal
extracts such as dill, horseradish, oats, neem, beet, broccoli, tea, pumpkin,
soybean, barley, walnut, flax, ginseng, poppy, avocado, pea or sesame for the
delivery of active ingredients in the form of adhesive strips which remove
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keratotic plugs from skin pores (U.S. Patent No. 5,985,300); topical
formulations
containing orange, avocado, watermelon, banana, lemon, palm oil, or coconut
oil
for the treatment of redness, swelling, itching, and soreness of the skin
(U.S.
Patent No. 5,932,230); skin cream compositions containing the juice of an
avocado, cucumber, lemon, or weeping willow for cleansing, moisturizing,
nourishing and healing the skin (U.S. Patent No. 4,722,843); a skin
moisturizing
and cleansing cream comprising a mixture of a predominant amount of fresh
fruit
(U.S. Patent No. 4,297,374); and skin moisturizing and sunscreen compositions
containing biological extracts such as green tea extract, horsetail extract,
sunflower extract, and wheat germ extract (U.S. Patent No. 5,788,954).
The healing properties of certain plant extracts have also been used in
hair care compositions such as: hair cosmetic compositions containing a plant
extract chosen from bark of birch, grass of rosemary, and avocado (U.S. Patent
No. 4,839,168); compositions for treating dandruff (U.S. Patent No. 5,053,222)
and hair growth-promoting compositions (JP62099319) containing mistletoe; and
compositions containing a bean extract (JP59101414) that correct damaged hair.
While popular opinion regarding some of the touted uses of plant extracts
ranges from skepticism to disbelief, there appears to be a firm scientific
basis for
many of the assertions. For example, many plant extracts contain lectins, also
referred to as agglutinins, affinitins, phytoagglutinins, phasins or
protectins.
These are a group of proteins or glycoproteins, of both plant and animal
origin,
that have specific binding affinity to sugar groups which exist in
polysaccharides
or glycoproteins. Not to be limited as to theory, it is believed that this
binding
affinity to sugars is responsible for the observed therapeutic or protective
properties that make plant extracts a choice material for use in target
delivery of
active ingredients or therapeutic agents.
U.S. Patent No. 4,217,341, for example, discloses compositions
containing lectins which bind and agglutinate dental-plaque producing
bacteria,
thereby inhibiting the adherence of said bacteria to smooth surfaces such as
teeth surfaces. Similarly, U.S. Patent No. 5,607,679 discloses a method of
treatment of a skin disease by binding lectins to a sialylated TF antigen of
the
skin. The specific affinity of lectins for sugars is also taught in U.S.
Patent No.
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5,510,120 and EP0481701 B1 where the lectin is covalently bound to a liposome
which also contains an active ingredient. Thus the active is delivered to the
specific site desired.
Plant extracts and lectins are also used in the characterization of
carbohydrates because of their ability to bind to some sugar molecules and
moieties, and their ability to cause cell agglutination by binding to the
glycoproteins located in the cell membrane. The nature of the binding sites
can
be determined by the hapten-inhibition test. See Kornfeld, S. and Kornfeld,
R.,
Lectins in the Study of Glycoproteins (1978). In this assay; various
carbohydrates are tested for their ability to inhibit the lectin-induced
agglutination
of the test cells. It has been shown that various lectins react with a number
of
different carbohydrates, both simple and complex sugars. See Kornfeld, S. and
Kornfeld, R., Glycoproteins of Blood Cells and Plasma (1971 ). In the majority
of
cases, the affinity of lectins to complex oligosaccharides is much greater
than
that to simple sugars. Among the lectins shown to have carbohydrate-binding
sites of the complex type are the lectins from potato (Solanum tuberosum).
Allen, A.K. and Neuberger, A., J. Biochem. 135, 307-314 (1973). Solanum
tuberosum agglutinin (STA), which has an affinity for N-acetyl-[3-D-
glucosamine
oligomers, is a glycoprotein containing approximately equivalent amounts of
protein and carbohydrate.
In light of the useful properties of plant extracts discussed above, and in
order to meet the public's demand for consumer products based on natural
ingredients, there is a need for more cosmetic products that utilize the
binding
properties of plant extracts and can be useful in restoring and protecting
keratinous fibers.
To achieve these and other advantages, and in accordance with the
purpose of the invention as embodied and broadly described herein, the present
invention, in one aspect, provides a method of protecting keratinous fiber
from
extrinsic damage, e.g., protein loss caused by exposure to heat, chemicals,
etc.,
by applying to keratinous fiber a composition that contains at least one plant
extract chosen from potato extract, mistletoe extract, avocado extract, wheat
germ extract, and willowherb extract. The present invention also contemplates
a
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method of improving combability and/or a method of improving curl formation of
keratinous fibers by applying to the keratinous fibers a composition
containing at
least one plant extract.
In another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to a composition
for the treatment or protection of keratinous fiber, the composition
comprising at
least one plant extract chosen from willow herb extract.
Additional objects and advantages of the invention will be set forth in part
in the description which follows, and in part will be apparent from the
description,
or may be learned by practice of the invention. The objects and advantages of
the invention will be realized and attained by means of the elements and
combinations particularly pointed out in the appended claims.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the
following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are not
restrictive of the invention as claimed.
Figure 1: The evaluation of plant extracts for the protection of hair using
the
protein loss test on normal/bleached hair.
Figure 2: The evaluation of plant extracts for the protection of hair using
the
protein loss test on bleached hair.
Figure 3: Compositions containing willowherb extract and mixtures of
willowherb
extract and sucrose are evaluated for their ability to protect hair by
measuring the
increase in wet combing work.
Reference will now be made in detail to the presently preferred
embodiments of the present invention. The invention, in one aspect, provides a
method of protecting keratinous fiber from extrinsic damage by applying to
keratinous fiber a composition that contains at least one plant extract chosen
from potato extract, mistletoe extract, avocado extract, wheat germ extract,
and
willowherb extract. Extrinsic damage is damage that is caused by conditions
such as sun, chemical damage, e.g., from detergents, bleaching, relaxing,
dyeing, and permanent waving, and heat, e.g., from hair dryers or curlers.
Examples of keratinous fiber include hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows. The
composition may further comprise at least one sugar.
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The present invention also contemplates a method of improving
combability and/or a method of improving curl formation of keratinous fibers
by
applying to the keratinous fibers a composition comprising at least one plant
extract. The composition may further comprise at least one 'sugar.
Plant extracts are known to bind to carbohydrate moieties, including the
carbohydrate moieties of glycoproteins on the surface of cells. Therefore, it
naturally follows that plant extracts should bind to keratinous fiber, which
contains a number of sugars and carbohydrate moieties. It was unexpectedly
discovered by the present inventors, however, that in addition to binding to
keratinous fiber, plant extracts and plant extract-like materials provide
protection
from extrinsic conditions to the keratinous fiber and also impart other
desired
benefits to keratinous fiber. Even more surprising was the ability of plant
extracts
to provide greater protection to keratinous fiber, especially hair, that has
already
been damaged by extrinsic conditions as compared to non-damaged hair.
For example, human hair contains a number of sugars or carbohydrate
moieties, as summarized in Table 1 below. See Mathews, et al., Cosm.
Technoloay 10 (1981 ). One such carbohydrate moiety is N-acetylneuraminic
acid (NANA), which is found on the surface of the hair fiber. The presence of
NANA in human hair can be observed by extracting the hair with acid under mild
hydrolysis conditions. NANA is the most common member of the group of sialic
acids, which are encountered in nature as terminal residues in the
oligosaccharide moieties of glycoproteins. Thus, NANA indicates the presence
of glycoproteins in hair.
TABLE 1: Monosaccharide content in normal hair
Monosaccharide pmole/g hair
Glucosamine 1.01 0.09
Galactosamine 0.26 0.05
Galactose 0.46 0.37
Glucose 5.73 1.43
Mannose 1.02 0.37
Xylose 0.56 0.14
Fucose 0.14 0.05
Hexuronic acid 8.53 0.05
Sialic acids 0.37 0.01
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As the terminal residue, NANA is the first constituent exposed to the
attack during various treatments applied to hair. Preliminary studies on the
NANA distribution within the hair fiber, indicate that as much as 25% to 30%
of
the total NANA content may reside close to the hair surface. Therefore, it is
not
surprising that the amount of NANA in hair decreases after water extraction,
and
is drastically reduced after acid extraction and after severe bleaching. In
other
words, the amount of NANA in keratinous fibers decreases as the fibers are
damaged by extrinsic conditions such as water, chemical damage and heat.
These treatments can be chemically non-aggressive (water; surfactants), as
well
as aggressive (permanent waving, often referred to as a "perm"; oxidative
color/bleach; alkaline hair straightening). While detailed information on the
function of NANA and glycoproteins in human hair is still lacking, it is known
from
other sources that the removal of one NANA residue from the oligosaccharide
chain can change physical and biochemical properties of biomolecules. See
Sharon, N., and Lis, H., The Proteins Vol. V, 1-145 (H. Neurath and R.L. Hill
eds.
Academic Press, NY) (1982).
Therefore, not to be limited as to theory, using plant extracts to protect
terminal groups, such as NANA, during chemical attacks may result in the hair
being protected during aggressive treatments. By the same token, plant
extracts
binding to NANA and the oligosaccharide chains of hair could protect normal
and
damaged hair against protein loss during non-aggressive treatments. Similarly,
a
carbohydrate moiety that is found in the skin and other keratinous tissue,
e.g., .
glycosaminoglucans (GAG's), may enable plant extracts to provide other
keratinous tissue with the same protection as found for hair.
Thus, plant extracts have been shown to bind to keratinous fiber and
impart protective effects to the fiber from damage by extrinsic conditions.
Plant
extracts also condition the surface of the fiber and retain the integrity of '
keratinous fibers by reducing cuticle loss. In addition to protecting
keratinous
fiber, plant extracts improve the combability and the curl formation of
keratinous
fibers.
Any plant extract that binds to carbohydrate moieties or sugars may be
useful in the practice of the invention. A plant extract useful in the methods
of
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the invention may also be any plant extract that protects keratinous fibers
from
protein loss. The skilled artisan may determine by routine experimentation if
a
plant extract binds to carbohydrate moieties or protects keratinous fibers
from
protein loss depending on the application envisaged. Routine experiments for
determining if a plant extract may be useful in the practice of the invention
include column chromatography, as described in Example 1, which determines
the binding of a plant extract to a carbohydrate moiety; the protein loss
test, as
described in Example 2, which determines whether a plant extract protects
keratinous fibers from protein loss; and the combability test, as described in
Example 3, which compares the increase in wet combing work caused by
extrinsic conditions for hair treated with a plant extract versus untreated
hair.
However, a positive result in any or all of the tests provided is not
necessarily
required for a plant extract to be useful in the compositions and methods of
the
invention.
The combability test (See Garcia, M. L., and Diaz, J., J. Soc. Cosmet.
Chem. 27, 370-398 (1976)), is known in the art to correlate well to the amount
of
protection from exposure to extrinsic conditions that is afforded hair by a
composition. Wet combing work of normal hair is determined prior to treatment.
The hair is then divided into two groups and treated, one group with the plant
extract and the other group with control solutions. Following treatment, the
hair
is exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions such as heating. The increase in work
or
force required to comb wet hair is compared for the exposed hair treated with
the
plant extract versus the exposed hair treated with the controls.
Preferred plant extracts of the present invention include, but are not
limited to, willowherb extract; potato extracts such as Dermolectine~ and
Capilectine~; mistletoe extract; avocado extract; wheat germ extract; kidney
bean extract; other vegetable extracts such as carrot, soybean, oat, beet,
cucumber, broccoli, pumpkin and tomato extract; tobacco extract; other herbal
extracts such as dill, horseradish, weeping willow, ginseng, poppy, or sesame;
other fruit extracts such as orange, lemon, watermelon, banana, and coconut.
Plant extracts are generally supplied in water or glycerol solutions
containing, .for
example, in the case of Dermolectine~, 60% glycerol, but it is possible that
they
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may be obtained in more concentrated form. Additionally, many suppliers do not
provide the percent active ingredient for commercially available plant
extracts.
In a further preferred embodiment, the plant extracts of the present
invention are chosen from plant extracts containing lectins. Lectins can be
extracted from a variety of plant or animal materials and can be categorized
by
their affinity to a particular sugar or sugar complex. Lectins useful in the
practice
of the invention include, but are not limited to: Solanum tuberosum L. (potato
extract), which may be purified by affinity chromatography and is commercially
available from SEDERMA, Inc. (France) as Dermolectine~ (700 mg/100 g
actives concentration) and Capilectine~ (500 mg/100 g actives concentration),
ALBAN MULLER, Int. (France) and VEGETECH (CA); Lycopersicon esculentum
(tomato extract); Agaricus bisporus (mushroom extract); Arachis hypogea
(peanut extract); Bauhinia pupurea (camel's foot tree or seed extract);
Anguilla
anguilla (fresh water eel extract); Tetragonolobus purpureas (winged pea
extract); Ulex europaeus (gorse or furze extract); Lathyrus odoratus (sweet
pea
extract); Lens culinaris (lentil extract) or Pisum safivum (pea extract); and
agglutinins from Glycine max (soybean extract), Helix aspersa (garden snail
extract) or Helix pomatia (roman or edible snail extract).
The compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one
sugar. Compositions comprising mixtures of one or more plant extracts are
within the practice of the invention, as are compositions comprising mixtures
of
one or more plant extracts and one or more sugars.
The sugars useful in the present invention may be any sugar,
carbohydrate or carbohydrate moiety. In a preferred embodiment, the sugars
may be chosen from monosaccharides, which include, but are not limited to, any
three to seven carbon sugars such as pentoses, e.g., ribose, arabinose,
xylose,
lyxose, ribulose, and xylulose, and hexoses, e.g., allose, altrose, glucose,
mannose, gulose, idose, galactose, talose, sorbose, psicose, fructose, and
tagatose; disaccharides (which are saccharides that hydrolyze into two
monosaccharides) such as maltose, sucrose, cellobiose, trehalose and lactose;
and polysaccharides (which are saccharides that hydrolyze into more than two
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monosaccharides) such as starch, dextrins, cellulose and glycogen. In another
embodiment, the sugars of the invention are chosen from aldoses and ketoses.
In a preferred embodiment, the mixture of at least one plant extract and at
least one sugar is chosen from mixtures of potato extracts such as
Dermolectine~ and/or Capilectine~ and one or more sugars chosen from
sorbose, sucrose and trehalose; kidney bean extract and sucrose; and
willowherb extract and sucrose.
In a preferred embodiment, a plant extract or mixture. of plant extracts is
present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from
0.01 % to 5.0% relative to the total weight of the composition. When a sugar
or
mixture,of sugars is present in the compositions of the present invention, it
is
preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.001 % to 3.0% relative to the
total
weight of the composition. These ranges are based on a commercially available
plant extract composition, which is approximately 60% glycerol. The preferred
ranges of plant extract present in the compositions of the present invention
may
vary depending on the percent active ingredient of the plant extracts as
supplied
commercially.
The compositions of the present invention may be in the form of a liquid,
oil, paste, stick, dispersion, emulsion, lotion, gel, or cream. The
compositions of
the present invention may also be provided as one-part compositions comprising
the plant extract or mixture of plant extracts and, optionally, the sugar or
mixture
or sugars or in the form of a multicomponent treatment or kit. The
multicomponent kit may comprise one component that contains a plant extract
and another component that optionally contains a sugar. The skilled artisan,
based on the stability of the composition and the application envisaged, will
be
able to determine how the composition and/or multicomponent compositions
should be stored and mixed.
In another embodiment, the present invention is drawn to a composition
for the treatment or protection of keratinous fiber, the composition
comprising
willowherb extract. The composition may further comprise at least one sugar.
The invention will be illustrated by, but is not intended to be limited to,
the
following examples.
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Example 1. A Test to Determine the Binding of a Plant Extract to a
Carbohydrate Moiety
A screening test to determine the applicability of a plant extract for use in
the compositions of the present invention was carried out. Since any plant
extract that binds to carbohydrate moieties or sugars may be useful in the
practice of the invention, the skilled artisan may use column chromatography
or
HPLC to quickly determine the binding properties of a plant extract to a
specific
carbohydrate and therefore the possible utility of that plant extract for the
application envisaged.
HPLC experiments were performed as shown in Table 4 below. A cation
exchange chromatographic column that will not retain NANA but will retain or
slow the elution of a NANA/plant extract complex was chosen, in this case a
NANA/Dermolectine~ complex. The amount of NANA recovered following HPLC
with the control solution (glycerol was chosen as a control because the
Dermolectine~ solution contained 60% glycerol), as calculated from NANA's
absorption at 200 nm, was then compared to the amount of NANA recovered
following HPLC with a solution containing the potato extract, Dermolectine~.
NANA in the glycerol control solution was not retained by the column
during HPLC and 100% of the NANA was recovered at a time A. Therefore, any
NANA from the NANA/Dermolectine~ solutions passed through the column that
was not recovered at time A was due to an interaction between NANA and the
Dermolectine~. As shown in Table 4, below, the lower amounts of NANA
recovered following HPLC demonstrated that Dermolectine~ is capable of
binding NANA.
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TABLE 4. Effect of Dermolectine~ on NANA Determination by HPLC (200 nm
Detection)
Solution % NANA
Recovered
NANA in 60% Glycerol*/0.1 N HZS04 100
NANA in 60% Glycerol*/0.1 N HZS04, 1 h at 80°C 100
NANA in 100% Dermolectine~/0.1 N H2S04 80
NANA in 100% Dermolectine~/0.1 N H2S04, 1 h at 80°C 66
* Dermolectine~ contains 60% glycerol.
Example 2. A Test to Determine the Protection of Keratinous Fibers from
Protein Loss bpi a Plant Extract
Another screening test to determine the applicability of a plant extract for
use in the compositions of the present invention was carried out. A plant
extract
useful in the compositions of the invention may also be any plant extract that
protects keratinous fibers from protein loss. The skilled artisan may
determine
by the protein loss test, whether a plant extract protects keratinous fibers
from
protein loss.
The effect of the potato extracts, Dermolectine~ arrd Capilectine~,
respectively, on the protein loss from keratinous fibers in water was tested
against the control, glycerol. Each of the solutions of Table 5 below, was
applied
to a swatch of bleached hair for 5 minutes at room temperature (ratio of
hair:liquid = 1:10, w/w). The. hair swatches were then rinsed with tepid water
for
one minute, air-dried, and then each swatch was placed in a separate 50 ml
Erlenmeyer flask and deionized water was added at a ratio of hair:water =
1:15,
w/w. The hair samples were shaken in a Gyrotory Water Bath Shaker Model
G76 (New Brunswick Scientific Co.) for 1 hour at room temperature.
The protein content in each water sample was determined by the Lowry
technique. See Sandhu, S.S., and Robbins, C.R., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 44,
163-175 (1993). As shown in Table 5, the protein loss from the hair pre-
treated
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with 1 % solutions of Dermolectine~ and Capilectine~ was significantly lower
than that from the hair pre-treated with the glycerol solution.
TABLE 5. Protein Loss in Water from Bleached Hair.
Effect of One Pre-treatment
Treatment Solution Protein loss,
mg/g hair
No treatment 3.05 ~ 0.02
0.6% Glycerol - Control 2.56 ~ 0.06
1 % Capilectine~ 1.76 ~ 0.04
1 % Dermolectine~ 2.09 ~ 0.06
In another experiment, 1 % solutions of different potato extracts were
tested for their capacity to protect bleached hair from protein loss. The
effect of
the glycerol-containing extracts Dermolectine~, Capilectine~, and Potato HS,
was compared to that of 0.6% glycerol, while the glycerol-free raw materials,
Potato Peel Extract and Potato Extract, (VEGETECH), were tested against
water. See Table 6 below.
Swatches of bleached hair were treated with the above solutions for 5
minutes at room temperature, and rinsed with tepid water for one minute. The
treatments were repeated five times. The shaking-in-water procedure was
conducted as described above. In all cases, the protein loss from the bleached
hair treated with the potato extracts was significantly lower than that from
the
corresponding control swatches (See Table 6).
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TABLE 6. Protein Loss in Water from Bleached Hair.
Effect of Five Pre-Treatments
Treatment Solution Protein loss,
mg/g hair
I. Glycerol Containing Solutions
1.0% Glycerol - Control 0.75 ~ 0.09
1 % Capilectine~ 0.55 ~ 0.09
1 % Dermolectine~ 0.61 ~ 0.05
1 % Potato HS 0.44 ~ 0.05
II. Glycerol-Free Solutions
Water treatment - Control 0.97 ~ 0.11
1 % Potato Peel Extract 0.61 ~ 0.08
1 % Potato Extract 0.76 ~ 0.05
Example 3. Protection of Normal Hair Bv Plant Extracts During Bleachin
The combability test was used to determine the amount of protection from
extrinsic conditions afforded hair by a composition of the invention. The wet
combing force of normal brown hair was determined prior to further treatment.
See Garcia, M. L., and Diaz, J., J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 370-398 (1976).
Next, solutions of the potato extracts, Dermolectine~ and Potato HS
respectively,
each at concentrations of 0.5%, 1.0%, and 3% by weight, were applied to the
hair for 5 minutes at room temperature (hairaolution=1:10, w/w). Dermolectine~
and Potato HS each contain 60-80% glycerol, therefore these potato extracts
were tested against 3% glycerol solutions (control). The treatment was
repeated
three times, with the hair being rinsed and air-dried between each
application.
The pre-treated normal hair was then equilibrated under room conditions for 24
hours and bleached (30 minutes at room temperature; 12% H202, pH 9.7
adjusted with ammonia). The bleached hair was tested for the increase in wet
combing force as compared to the initial wet combing force for normal brown
hair
before treatment and bleaching. All tests were performed in duplicate.
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As shown below in table 7, the increase in the wet combing force for hair
pre-treated with Dermolectine~ or Potato HS solutions was significantly lower
than that observed for hair pre-treated with the glycerol solution.
Table 7. Wet Combing of Bleached Hair: Effect of Pre-Bleach Treatment.
(Tests performed in duplicate; 10 comb strokes per test)
Treatment Increase in wet
combing energy,
3% Glycerol 178.9 ~ 12.6
0.5% Potato HS 109.7 ~ 2.1
1.0% Potato HS 109.8 ~ 3.7
3.0% Potato HS 73.8 ~ 11.3
0.5% Dermolectine~ 106.6 ~ 13.41
1.0% Dermolectine~ 113.7 ~ 6.21
3.0% Dermolectine~ 104.1 ~ 9.96
Example 4. Improved Combing of Bleached Hair Treated with Plant
Extracts
The combability or wet combing force for bleached hair was determined
before and after treatment with potato extract. Bleached hair was treated with
a
solution of 1 % of the potato extract, Capilectine~, while another sample of
bleached hair was treated with a solution of 0.6% glycerol. All samples were
treated for 5 minutes at room temperature at a hair:liquid ratio of 1:10 (w/w)
and
then rinsed for 3 minutes with tepid water. The wet combing force after the
Capilectine~ application was lessened, indicating that the application
improved
the combability by 45%, while there were no significant changes after the
glycerol
treatment (Table 8).
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Table 8. Improvement in Wet Combing of Bleached Hair (Tests performed in
duplicate; 10 comb strokes per test)
Treatment Percent Improvement in wet
combing energy,
0.6% Glycerol no change
1.0% Capilectine 45.2
Example 5. Improved Curl Formation in the Permanent Wavingi of Normal
and Tinted Hair Treated with Plant Extract
The curl formation in the permanent waving of 12 fiber swatches of normal
brown hair and normal brown hair tinted with ColorGel~ 6R0 (Redken) using 20
volume of H202 was measured. The swatches (lo ( average initial length) = 12.5
cm) were wound on perm rods (7.5 mm diameter), 6 rods per test (n = 6). Each
of three groups of swatches was saturated with one of the following pre-
treatments: a) water; b) 0.6% glycerol; c) 1 % Dermolectine~, respectively, at
a
ratio of 2 ml per rod; and maintained for 5 min at room temperature. Next, the
rods were blotted with paper-towel, and the permanent waving reforming lotion
was applied (10% Thioglycolic acid (TGA), 1% Betaine, pH 9.01, NH40H; 2 ml
per rod). The hair was processed for 30 minutes at room temperature; rinsed in
deionized water (100 mL/6 rods; 5 minutes); neutralized with 2% H202, pH 3 (5
minutes; 2 ml/rod); and again rinsed with deionized water (100 mL/6 rods; 5
minutes). The rods were blotted with a paper towel, the hair was taken off the
rods, and the diameter and the length of the wet curl were measured. The
length
of the dry curl of the swatches was measured after drying in a vertical
position on
the board.
As shown in Table 9 below, the wet and the dry curl length of the hair pre-
treated with 1 % Dermolectine~ was significantly lower, as compared to the
hair
pre-treated with water. There was no significant difference in the curl
formation
between the water- and the glycerol-treated hair.
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Table 9. Improvement in Perm Efficiency: Effect of Pre-Treatment
Hair type/ Avg. Wet curl length, cm Avg. Dry curl length, cm
Treatment I° = 12.5 cm I° = 12.5 cm
n=6 n=6
Normal Brown Hair:
Water 5.20 ~ 0.19 6.60 ~ 0.18
0.6% Glycerol 5.32 ~ 0.40 6.83 ~ 0.42
1 % Dermolectine~ 4.80 ~ 0.32 6.02 ~ 0.19
Brown Hair Tinted with ColorGel~ 6R0:
Water 6.03 ~ 0.32 6.95 ~ 0.35
0.6% Glycerol 6.05 ~ 0.33 7.08 ~ 0.27
1 % Dermolectine~ 5.08 ~ 0.25 6.28 ~ 0.31
Example 6. Protection of Normal Hair with Plant Extracts
Swatches of normal brown hair were treated with one of the following 1
solutions of: Dermolectine~, avocado extract (Active Organics), Mistletoe
Extract
(Active Organics), and Wheat Germ Extract (Active Organics). Since all of the
plant extracts contained 60 to 80 % glycerol, control swatches of hair were
treated with water and 1 % glycerol, respectively. The hair was then bleached
with 12% H20z, pH 8.8 (NH40H) for 20 minutes at room temperature. There was
no significant difference in the lift of color between the extract treated and
water
treated swatches.
The hair was digested in 6N HCL (110°C, 24 hours) and analyzed for
cysteic acid using a Beckman System 6300 High Performance Analyzer. The
cysteic acid content is another way to measure the amount of damage to hair
fibers caused by bleaching. The higher the cysteic acid content, the more
damage done to the hair. As shown in Table 10 below, while all of the plant
extracts tested protected hair from loss of NANA relative to water and
glycerol,
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there was no appreciable difference in the cysteic acid content of hair
pretreated
by plant extract.
The hair was also analyzed for protein loss in water as described above.
Table 10, below, and Figure 1, attached, show that mistletoe extract and
Dermolectine~ provided protection against protein loss at these low
concentrations. While no appreciable protection against protein loss was
observed for wheat germ extract or Avocado extract at these concentrations,
protection against protein loss may be observable at higher concentrations of
plant extract.
Finally, the hair was analyzed for NANA content. NANA content was
measured by the following procedure. The hair was digested with
papain/dithiotreitol, lyophilized, and reconstituted with 0.2 N H2S04. The
hair
was then hydrolyzed at 80°C for 1 hour, derivatized with the
fluorescent probe,
1,2-diamino-4,5-methlenedioxybenzene, and analyzed for NANA content by
reverse-phase HPLC. As shown in Table 10, all of the plant extracts protected
the hair from loss of NANA during bleaching, which indicates protection of
hair
surface glycoproteins.
TABLE 10. Protection of Hair with Plant Extracts
Hair/Treatment NANA, Cysteic acid, Protein loss,
nmole/g hair Mole % Ng/g hair
Normal Hair 619 ~ 13 0.5 ~ 0.1 306 ~ 3
Bleached hair. pretreated
with:
40971 1.80.2 41060
Water 485 1.9 0.2 481 13
1.0% Glycerol - Control500 5 1.8 0.1 471 76
1 % Wheat Germ 506 43 2.2 0.1 390 18
1 % Mistletoe 560 55 1.8 0.1 380 14
1 % Dermolectine~ 585 28 1.9 0.1 476 45
1 % Avocado
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A similar experiment was performed using hair that was bleached one
time (1X). Swatches of bleached hair were treated by one of the following
procedures:
a) 0.5 % potato extract (VEGETECH) solution was applied for 5 minutes at
room temperature, rinsed under tap water, air-dried, and equilibrated for 24
hours at room conditions before bleaching;
b) 2.0 % potato extract (VEGETECH) solution was applied following the
procedure set forth in (a);
c) 0.5 % potato extract (VEGETECH) solution was applied for 5 minutes at
room temperature, blot-dried with a paper towel, air-dried, and equilibrated
for 24
hours at room conditions before bleaching; and
d) 1.0 % potato extract (VEGETECH) solution was applied following
procedure (c). The potato extracts did not contain glycols, therefore, water
was
used as a control treatment.
The bleached hair was then bleached again with 12% H202, pH 8.8
(NH40H) for 20 minutes at room temperature. There was no significant
difference in the lift of color between the extract-treated and water-treated
swatches. The hair was analyzed for cysteic acid and protein loss in water as
described above.
As shown in Table 11, each of the plant extract solutions protected the
hair from cysteic acid formation. In addition, as shown in Table 11 and Figure
2,
each of the plant extract solutions protected the hair from protein loss. A
concentration dependence was also observed with regard to the ability of a
plant
extract to protect hair from protein loss.
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TABLE 11. Protection of Bleached Hair with Plant Extracts
Hair/Treatment Cysteic acid, Protein loss,
Mole % Ng/g hair
Bleached Hair, 1 X 2.9 ~ 0.1 360 ~ 2
Bleached Hair after Second
Bleaching~2X), pretreated with
Potato Extract:
Water (control)
4.4~0.1 1023~70
3.80.1 100021
0.5% Extract, rinsed 3.9 0.1 914 23
2.0% Extract, rinsed
3.7 0.1 916 15
0.5% Extract, left-in 3.6 0.1 878 5
1.0% Extract, left-in
Example 7. Protecting Hair Using a Plant Extract/Su4ar Mixture
The combability test was used to demonstrate the effective protection
from extrinsic conditions, such as heat, afforded hair by a composition of the
invention. The wet combing force of bleached hair was determined prior to
further treatment. Next, hair swatches were treated with one of the following
solutions:
a) water (control);
b) sugar solution;
c) willowherb solution; and
e) willowherb and sugar mixture.
The solutions were applied to the hair for 5 minutes at room temperature
(hair:solution ratio = 1:10, w/w). The treatment was repeated six times, with
the
hair being rinsed and subjected to heating cycles between each treatment. See
McMullen, R. and Jachowicz, J., J. Cosmet. Sci., 49, 223-244 (1998). The
bleached hair was tested for the increase in wet combing force as compared to
the initial wet combing force of the bleached hair before treatment and
heating to
determine the efficacy of the treatments against heat exposure.
Figure 3 shows a reduction in percent increase in wet combing work. This
indicates that there was a effective protection of hair from heat cycles using
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willowherb extract or a willowherb extract/sucrose mixture at the
concentrations
shown.
It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and
variations can be made in the compositions and methods of the present
invention
without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. Thus, it is
intended
that the present description cover the modifications and variations of this
invention provided that they come within the scope of the appended claims and
their equivalents.
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