Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR IMPROVING
THE HEALTH OF NAILS
The present invention relates to improvements in the field of nail
care products. In particular, this invention relates to cosmetic compositions
for
improving the health of nails.
The nails of mammals, particularly the fingernails and toenails of
humans, are composed of epidermis transparent cells called corneocyte cells,
which are produced at the root of the nail. These cells join together to form
a
solid and continuous surface on the back of the terminal phalanges.
Each nail adheres intimately to the underlying support that
forms the bed of the nail. The visible part of the nail is called the body of
the
nail. The hidden part is called the root.
The propagation of the corneocyte cells in the root ensures nail
growth. The new cells go through a transformation in the solid layers and dry
until they form a solid plate. The nail permanently receives continuous
additions of cells at the level of its bed, which push the bed beyond the
extremity of the phalange.
Keratin fibrils present inside the corneocyte cells, as well as the
intercellular cements present, bring rigidity and flexibility to the nails.
Unfortunately, the fragility and vulnerability of the nails are
observed in presence of mechanical, thermal and/or chemical attacks. For
example, nails which are brittle and friable eventually break, split or crack
due
to mechanical shocks. The nails may also be degraded in the presence of
aggressive chemical agents, particularly those present in household products.
Nail degradation may also be a secondary effect of the ageing process.
Degradation of nails can be very painful, unpleasant and unsightly, and can
permit foreign bodies to cause infection of the nails.
Numerous approaches have been investigated in order to
improve the resistance of the nails to mechanical, thermal, chemical or
temporal deterioration by hardening or strengthening them. Various
compositions based on chemical products such as synthetic gums of an
acrylic polymer film, varnishes based on nitrocellulose combined with inert
glass fibers and other hardening agents have been proposed respectively in
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U.S. patents Nos. 5,508,027, 4,873,077, 4,482,538 and 5,785,959. Although
these compositions may have an hardening or strengthening action on the
nails, they do not allow one to improve the health of the nails. If any one of
these compositions is applied to fragile or soft nails, harder nails may be
obtained, but the latter will still have a tendency to crack and break.
Several approaches have also been investigated in order to
improve the flexibility and resistance of the nails by nourishing and
moisturizing them. Many attempts have been made to prevent the nails from
dehydrating and to protect them against various types of deterioration.
Compositions comprising synthetic active agents such as moisturizing,
antimicrobial or antifungal agents have been extensively proposed.
U.S. patent No. 6,517,863 discloses compositions and methods
for improving durability and hardness of the nail body. The compositions
increase the durability of the nails by forming a protective layer of
hydroxyapatite or other calcium phosphate mineral on the nail. Such
compositions include synthetic and inorganic bioactive glasses as active
agents. These inorganic glass materials are bound to the nails and comprise
a plurality of synthetic chemicals products.
U.S. patent No. 5,645,823 discloses an aqueous solution for
restoring and maintaining the compositional balance of normal, healthy
keratinous tissues and their adjacent structures. The latter composition
comprises a plurality of synthetic compounds used as antimicrobial or
chelating agents or surfactants.
U.S, patent No. 4,919,920 discloses compositions and methods
for reinforcing and hardening of mammals' keratinized appendages, wherein
fluoride ions in an aqueous cosmetic carrier are topically applied. The
utilization of fluoride ions increases both the hardness and the resistance of
the nail. However, this method presents the drawback of generating in situ
acidity. U.S. patent No. 5,478,551 also discloses the use of fluoride ions for
strengthening nails. A non-aqueous organic composition containing
ammonium hexafluorophosphate is used to provide an effective amount of
fluoride ions to the nail body. In the latter two cases, harmful acidic by-
products can potentially be formed.
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Although the above-mentioned compositions may prevent
brittleness of the nails or improve the health of nails, they all comprise
synthetic chemicals as main active agents, in respect of which long term
and/or secondary effects are still not completely known.
During the last decade, in the field of pharmaceutical products,
nutrition and cosmetic care, the attitude of society with respect to synthetic
products has changed considerably. The trend has been to avoid synthetic
products as much as possible and replace them by natural or organic
products. The emergence of functional food, neutraceuticals and natural
cosmetic products represents a good example of this trend. People are now
more aware of the fact that frequent or long term consumption or utilization
of
certain chemicals may have negative side effects on human health. Since
many of these chemicals are quite recent, the long term effects are often
unknown. Thus, natural or organic products have been extensively used as
active agents in pharmaceutical or cosmetic products. For example, U.S.
patent No. 5,667,768 discloses nail care compositions comprising an organic
solution or dispersion of at least one natural active agent. However, the use
of
such compositions is tedious since they must be applied 2 to 3 times per
week for at least 8 weeks in order to provide encouraging results.
It is therefore an object of the present invention to overcome the
above-mentioned drawbacks and to provide compositions for improving the
health of nails, which comprise as main active ingredient a natural active
agent.
According to one aspect of the invention, there is provided a nail
cosmetic composition comprising an extract of an alga and at least two
components selected from the group consisting of an extract of a plant of the
family of aloe vera, an extract of myrrh, keratin and a source of silica.
According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a
nail cosmetic composition comprising an extract of an alga selected from
algae of the family Ulvaceae, together with a cosmetically acceptable carrier
th erefor.
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According to still another aspect of the invention, there is
provided a nail cosmetic composition comprising mink oil and at least one
vegetable oil.
According to yet another aspect of the irwention, there is
provided a nail cosmetic composition comprising an extract of an alga and
mink oil.
According to a further aspect of the invention, there is provided
an active agent for improving the health of nails, comprising an extract of an
alga selected from algae of the family (Jlvaceae~
According to still a further aspect of the invention, there is
provided an active agent for improving the health of nails, comprising mink
oil.
According to yet a further aspect of the invention, there is
provided a method of treating nails, comprising the step of applying to the
nails a nail cosmetic composition according to the invention.
According to another aspect of the invention, there is provided a
method of treating nails, comprising the steps of:
a) applying to the nails a composition comprising an extract of
an alga and at least one component selected from the group consisting of an
extract of a plant of the family of aloe vera, an extract of myrrh, keratin
and a
source of silica; and
b) applying to the nails another composition comprising mink oil
and a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
Applicant has found quite surprisingly that by applying to the
nails a nail cosmetic composition as defined above, the treated nails have
improved health. The treated nails are more flexible, better-nourished and
adequately moisturized. Moreover, the treated nails have a revitalized and
healthy appearance and their growth rate is increased. Applicant has also
found that the compositions of the invention can be used to treat the tissues
surrounding the nail.
Even if the compositions of the invention can potentially contain
minor proportions of a synthetic product, the main active agents used, such
as an extract of an alga, mink oil, a vegetable oil, an extract of a plant of
the
family of aloe vera, an extract of myrrh, keratin or a source of silica, are
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natural and mild, and the compositions are thus not detrimental to the user's
health.
The expression "a plant of the family of aloe vera" as used
herein refers to plants of the Liliaceae family or lily family.
In the compositions of the invention, the extract of an alga can
be present in an amount of at least 5 % by weight, based on the total weight
of the composition. Preferably, the amount of the extract of an alga is
comprised between 7 and 75 %, and more preferably between 10 and 50
by weight.
In the active agents or the compositions of the invention, the
alga can be selected from algae of the family Ulvaceae, and more particularly
from algae of the genus Ulva. The alga is preferably selected from the group
consisting of Ulva angusta, Ulva californica, Ulva costafa, Ulva dactylifera,
Ulva expansa, Ulva lobata, Ulva rigida, Ulva sfenophyll, Ulva taeniafa and
Ulva lacfuca. The alga is preferably Ulva lacfuca, which is also known as sea
lettuce. The extract of the alga can be a liquid extract. The compositions of
the inventions are preferably liquid compositions.
The compositions of the invention can further comprise at least
one component selected from the group consisting of an extract of a plant of
the family of aloe vera, an extract of myrrh, keratin and a source of silica.
The
myrrh extracts used in the invention can also includes a myrtle extract.
In the compositions of the invention, the extract of a plant of the
family of aloe vera, the extract of myrrh, the keratin or the source of silica
can
be present in an amount of 2 to 65 % by weight, preferably 5 to 50 % by
weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The extract of a plant
of
the family of aloe vera is preferably a liquid extract. It should be noted
that, in
the compositions of the invention, the extract of a plant of the family of
aloe
very can be alternatively replaced by an extract of a plant of the Cacfaceae
family. The keratin is preferably hydrolyzed keratin. The source of silica is
preferably a horsetail extract. The horsetail extract can be selected from the
genus Equisetum and is preferably Epuiseturr~ arvense.
Mink oil can be present in the compositions of the invention, in
an amount of 3 to 85 % by weight, based on the total weight of the
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composition. Preferably, the amount of mink oil is between 5 and 75 %, and
. more preferably between 10 and 60 % by weight. The mink oil is preferably
emulsified into a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
The vegetable oil in the compositions of the invention can be
almond oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, hemp oil, jojoba oil,
linseed
oil, olive oil, sesame oil, soya oil, pine oil or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the
vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of avocado oil, hemp oil
and a mixture thereof. When use is made of a composition containing an
extract of an alga and mink oil, the composition can further comprise a
vegetable oil. The vegetable oil can be present in an amount of 5 to 85 % by
weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount
of vegetable oil is between 10 and 65 % by weight. The vegetable oil is
preferably emulsified into a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
The compositions of the invention can further comprise an
additive selected from the group consisting of antibacterial agents,
antifungal
agents, antistatic agents, botanical extracts, fragrances, moisturizers,
preservatives, U1/ filters, proteins, stabilizers, thickening agents, vitamins
and
mixtures thereof. The preservative is preferably DMDM hydantoin. The
vitamin can be selected from the group consisting of DL-panthenol,
phytantriol, vitamin E acetate and mixtures thereof. The thickening agent can
be selected from the group consisting of fumed silica, hydrated silica,
carrageenan, arrowroot and mixtures thereof. The thickening agent is
preferably carrageenan.
The cosmetically acceptable Barrier in the compositions of the
invention can be present in an amount of at least 10 % by weight, based on
the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the amount of cosmetically
acceptable carrier is at least 25 % by weight. When use is made of a
composition which includes an extract of an alga, the composition can further
comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically acceptable
carrier can be selected from the group consisting of a cream, a foam, a gel, a
solution and a spray. Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable carrier is an
aqueous solution or water. The solution can comprise 5 to 95 % by weight of
water, based on the total weight of the composition.
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The compositions of the invention can be used for preventing
demoisturization of nails, preventing friability of nails, improving the
health of
nails, providing an increased growth rate of nails andlor increasing the
flexibility of nails.
In the methods of the present invention, the composition can be
applied to the nails at least once a day for a period of at least 7 days and
preferably of at least 14 days. The compositions are preferably capable of
nourishing, flexibilizing, embellishing, revitalizing and/or moisturizing the
nails.
When two compositions are applied to nails, the alga present in
at least one of the compositions can be selected from algae of the family
Ulvaceae, and more particularly from algae of the genus Ulva. The alga is
preferably selected from the group consisting of Ulva angusfa, Ulva
californica, Ulva costafa, Ulva dacfylifera, Ulva expansa, Ulva lobata, Ulva
rigida, Ulva stenophyll, Ulva taeniata and Ulva lactuca. In a particularly
preferred embodiment, the alga is Ulva lactuca. The source of silica is
preferably a horsetail extract. The cosmetically acceptable carrier is
preferably a vegetable oil. The vegetable oil can be selected from the group
consisting of almond oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, hemp oil,
jojoba oil, linseed oil, olive oil, sesame oil, soya oil, pine oil and
mixtures
thereof. Preferably, the vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting
of
avocado oil, hemp oil and a mixture thereof. The composition of step (a) is
advantageously allowed to penetrate into the nails prior to applying the
composition of step (b). Preferably, the nails are massaged after applying the
compositions of steps (a) and (b) so as to promote penetration of the
compositions into the nails. Steps (a) and (b) can be performed at least once
a day for a period of at least 7 days, preferably at least 14 days. The
combination of the compositions of steps (a) and (b) is advantageously
capable of nourishing, flexibilizing, embellishing, revitalizing andlor
moisturizing the nails. In an alternative method, step (b) can be performed
prior to step (a).
The invention also relates to a nail cosmetic composition kit
comprising a first composition and a second composition. The first
composition can be any one of the compositions of the invention containing
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an extract of an alga and the second composition contains mink oil and a
cosmetically acceptable carrier. The cosmetically acceptable carrier can be
present in an amount of at least 10 % by weight, preferably at least 25 % by
weight based on the total weight of the composition. The cosmetically
acceptable carrier is preferably a vegetable oil. Mink oil can be present in
an
amount of 3 to 85 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the amount of mink oii is between 5 and 75 %, and more
preferably between 10 and 60 % by weight. The vegetable oil can be present
in an amount of 5 to 85 % by weight, based on the total weight of the
composition. Preferably, the amount of vegetable oil is between 10 and 65
by weight. The vegetable oil can be selected from the group consisting of
almond oil, avocado oii, coconut oil, i~azelnut oil, hemp oil, jojoba oil,
linseed
oil, olive oil, sesame oil, soya oil, pine oil and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the
vegetable oil is selected from the group consisting of avocado oil, hemp oil
and a mixture thereof.The kit can further include at least one applicator for
applying the first and second compositions to the nails. The kit can also
comprise an instruction set effective for using the kit.
The nail cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be
prepared by simply mixing together the cosmetic ingredients described
hereinabove with stirring. The cosmetic ingredients are added one by one to
form the desired composition and, after each addition, the mixture is stirred
so
as to be homogenized. Examples of satisfactory eguipment and how to use it
are readily apparent to one of ordinary skill in the art of nail care
products.
The present invention will be more readily understood with
reference to the following non-limiting examples.
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EXAMPLE 1
Cosmetic ingredients Vllt
DL-panthenol 7.1
hydroxy propyl trimonium20.6
amino acids
hydrolyzed keratin 20.6
horsetail extract 10.3
aloe extract 10.3
myrrh extract 10.3
Ulva lactuca extract 20.6
DMDM hydantoin 0.2
T~TAL ~ 100
EXAMPLE 2
Cosmetic ingredients 9Nt /~
mink oil 30
hemp oil 30
avocado oil 30
vitamin E acetate
phytantriol
TOTAL 100
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EXAMPLE 3
Cosmetic ingredients lilt
DL-panthenol . 4
ethyl-panthenol 10
glycine 2
hydrolyzed silk 2
hydrolyzed keratin 14
hydroxy propyl trimonium 4
horsetail extract 3
aloe extract 3
myrrh extract 3
Ulva lactuca extract 3
DMDM hydantoin 0.4
water 51.6
TOTAL 100
The above-mentioned nail cosmetic compositions were tested
so as to determine their efficacy for improving the health of nails. In order
to
perform such a test, two female test subjects were selected. The nails of test
subjects 1 and 2 were treated with the nail cosmetic compositions of
Examples 1 and 2.
Test Subject 1
Test subject 1 had extremely thin and brittle nails prior to
treatment with the nail cosmetic composition of Example 1. In particular, the
nails needed to be filed with a 600 grit file. At the beginning of the
treatment,
the subject's nails were cleansed using a nail polish remover and then, two
layers of the nail cosmetic composition of Example 1 were applied to the
nails. The nails were massaged in order to allow the composition to
penetrate the nails and surrounding tissues. Then, one layer of the nail
cosmetic composition of Example 2 was applied to the nails and the nails
were massaged. Such treatment was repeated by test subject 1 every day at
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bedtime. After one week of treatment, substantial improvement of the nails
was noticed. In fact, the nails were revitalized, better nourished, more
flexible
and less breakable. Moreover, the nails and surrounding tissues were
healthier looking. During the next three weeks, the treatment was maintained
and continual improvement of the nails was noticed.
Test subject 2
Test subject 2 had poor quality nails which were easily
breakable and of uneven length, The nails needed to be filed with a 400 grit
file. The same procedure as described for test subject 1 was applied to the
nails of test subject 2. After one week of treatment, significant improvement
was observed. The nails and surrounding tissues were healthier looking.
The nails were revitalized, better nourished, more flexible and less
breakable.
During the next three weeks, the treatment was maintained and continual
improvement of the nails was noticed. In particular, the nails were all of
even
length and the growth rate of the nails was increased. The growth rate of the
nails was about 1/16 inch per week at the beginning of the treatment and
increased to about 2/16 to 3/16 inch per week after the four-week treatment.
In view of the above results for test subjects 1 and 2, it is
apparent that the nail cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 and 2 improve
the health of the nails.
It has also been demonstrated that by using such nail cosmetic
compositions, the improvement of the health of the nails is rapidly observed
after one week of treatment. If the nail cosmetic of composition of Example 1
or 2 is used alone, encouraging results are observed in the nails of a test
subject but the period or duration of the treatment will be longer. By using
the nail cosmetic composition of Example 1 or 2 alone, two or three weeks
may be required prior to observing substantial improvement of the health of
the nails. In the above-mentioned treatment applied to the nails of test
subjects 1 and 2, the nail cosmetic composition of Example 1 can
alternatively be replaced with the nail cosmetic composition of Example 3.
However, in such a case, the improvement of the health of the nails may be
less rapid since the composition of Example 3 is less concentrated in active
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agents (horsetail extract, aloe extract, myrrh extract and alga extract) than
the
composition of Example 1.
It should be understood from the experiments carried out on the
above-mentioned test subjects, that a treatment using the nail cosmetic
compositions of the invention can be advantageously continued for more than
four weeks and that by doing so, a user will still improve the health of the
nails. The nail cosmetic compositions of the invention, if applied on a daily
basis, permit the user to have adequately nourished nails and surrounding
tissues which are in good health. The nail cosmetic compositions of the
invention can be applied to the nails by a professional nail technician or by
the customer.
While the invention has been described in connection with
specific embodiments thereof, it will be understood that it is capable of
further
modifications and this application is intended to cover any variations, uses,
or
adaptations of the invention following, in general, the principles of the
invention and including such departures from the present disclosure as come
within known or customary practice within the art to which the invention
pertains and as may be applied to the essential features hereinbefore set
forth, and as follows in the scope of the appended claims.
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