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Patent 2437070 Summary

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(12) Patent Application: (11) CA 2437070
(54) English Title: OXIDIZING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A PHOSPHONIC ACID TYPE CHELANT AND A CONDITIONING AGENT AND METHODS OF TREATING HAIR
(54) French Title: COMPOSITIONS OXYDANTES COMPRENANT UN AGENT DE CHELATION DE TYPE ACIDE PHOSPHONIQUE ET UN AGENT DE TRAITEMENT ET METHODES DE TRAITEMENT CAPILLAIRE
Status: Dead
Bibliographic Data
(51) International Patent Classification (IPC):
  • A61K 8/22 (2006.01)
  • A61K 8/36 (2006.01)
  • A61K 8/44 (2006.01)
  • A61K 8/55 (2006.01)
  • A61Q 5/08 (2006.01)
(72) Inventors :
  • MCKELVEY, GRAHAM NEIL (United Kingdom)
  • DUNBAR, JAMES CHARLES (United States of America)
(73) Owners :
  • THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY (United States of America)
(71) Applicants :
  • THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY (United States of America)
(74) Agent: MBM INTELLECTUAL PROPERTY LAW LLP
(74) Associate agent:
(45) Issued:
(86) PCT Filing Date: 2002-03-19
(87) Open to Public Inspection: 2002-10-10
Examination requested: 2003-07-29
Availability of licence: N/A
(25) Language of filing: English

Patent Cooperation Treaty (PCT): Yes
(86) PCT Filing Number: PCT/US2002/008478
(87) International Publication Number: WO2002/078661
(85) National Entry: 2003-07-29

(30) Application Priority Data:
Application No. Country/Territory Date
0106946.7 United Kingdom 2001-03-20
0128751.5 United Kingdom 2001-11-30

Abstracts

English Abstract




Compositions suitable for treating hair comprising an oxidizing agent, a
conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, especially nonvolatile
silicone and amino functionalised silicones, cationic surfactants, cationic
polymers, alkoxylated amines and mixtures thereof and a chelant selected from
phosphonic acid chelants, salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures
thereof and methods of treating hair. The compositions of the invention are
useful for depositing high amount of conditioning agent and reducing oxidative
hair damage during oxidative treatment of hair such as oxidative hair dyeing
and hair bleaching.


French Abstract

L'invention concerne des compositions de traitement capillaire comprenant un agent oxydant, un agent traitant sélectionné parmi des matières de silicone, en particulier la silicone non volatile et les silicones à fonction amino, des surfactants cationiques, des polymères cationiques, des amines alkoxylées et des mélanges de celles-ci, et un agent de chélation sélectionné parmi les agents de chélation à acide phosphoniques, leurs sels, leurs dérivés et les mélanges de ceux-ci, ainsi que des méthodes de traitement capillaire. Les compositions de l'invention sont utilisées afin de déposer une grande quantité d'agent de traitement et de réduire la dégradation capillaire oxydative au cours d'un traitement oxydatif des cheveux, par exemple la coloration et la décoloration capillaire oxydative.

Claims

Note: Claims are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.




WHAT IS CLAIMED IS:

1. ~A composition suitable for treating hair comprising:
a) an oxidizing agent;
b) a conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, especially
nonvolatile silicones and amino functionalised silicones, cationic
surfactants, cationic polymers, alkoxylated amines and mixtures
thereof;
characterized in that said composition further comprises:
c) a chelant selected from phosphonic acid type chelants, salts
thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

2. ~A composition according to Claim 1, wherein said chelant is selected from
chelants according to the formula (I) to (III) below:

Image
wherein X is -OH or -NH2; R1 is an aryl radical or an aliphatic radical
having 1 to 5 carbon atoms or the radical (Ia):
Image
and wherein R2 are independently selected from H or an alkyl radical
having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms;
.cndot. formula (II):

29


Image
wherein each R1 are independently selected from H or C1-C3 alkyl;
Image
wherein each X are independently selected from hydrogen or alkyl
radicals, preferably hydrogen or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
preferably hydrogen; and each R1 is independently selected from -PO3H2
or a group having the formula (IIIa) below:
Image
.cndot. salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

3. ~A composition according to Claim 2 wherein said chelant is selected from
aminotri-(1-ethylphosphonic acid), ethylene-diaminetetra-(1-
ethylphosphonic acid), aminotri-(1-propylphosphonic acid), aminotri-





(isopropyl-phosphonic acid), salts thereof, derivatives thereof and
mixtures thereof.

4. ~A composition according to Claim 2 wherein said chelant is selected from
the group consisting of chelants having the formula (IV) below:
Image
wherein each R2 are independently selected from -PO3H2 or the group
having the formula (IVa) below:
Image
salts thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.

5. ~A composition according to Claim 4 wherein said chelant is selected from
aminotri-(methylenephosphonic acid), ethylene-diaminotetra-
(methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP), diethylene-triamine-penta-
(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), salts thereof, derivatives thereof,
and mixtures thereof.

6. ~A composition according to any of the preceding Claims, wherein the pH
is above 8, preferably between 8 and 12, more preferably between 9 and
11.5, even more preferably between 9.5 and 11.

7. ~A composition according to any of the preceding Claims wherein said
composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a thickened
aqueous solution.
31


8. ~A composition according to any of the preceding Claims further
comprising a salt-tolerant thickener, said tolerant thickener being
preferably selected from xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan,
methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl
cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose,
hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl
cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, N-vinylpyrollidone, Acrylates /
Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate;
polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester
trihydroxystearin, acrylates copolymer or hydrophobically modified acrylate
copolymers and mixtures thereof.

9. ~A composition according to any of the preceding Claims, further
comprising at least one oxidative hair dye precursor.

10. A composition according to any of the preceding claims wherein said
conditioning agent is selected from silicone materials.

11. A method of treating hair comprising the step of contacting hair with a
composition according to any of the preceding Claims.

12. A method of treating hair comprising the subsequent steps of:
i) contacting hair with a first composition comprising:
a) a conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, especially
nonvolatile silicone and amino functionalised silicones, cationic
polymers, alkoxylated amines and mixtures thereof and;
b) a chelant selected from phosphonic acid type chelants, salts
thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof;
ii) contacting hair immediately after step i) with a second composition
comprising an oxidizing agent.

32



13. A method according to Claim 12 wherein said second composition further
comprises an oxidative hair dye precursor.

14. A method of treating hair comprising the subsequent steps of:
i) contacting hair with a first composition comprising an oxidizing agent;
ii) contacting hair with a second composition comprising a conditioning
agent and a chelant selected from phosphonic type chelants, salts
thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof; and
iii) contacting hair with a third composition comprising an oxidizing agent;
characterized in that steps i) and ii) are separated by at least 1 day and
that step ii) does not take place immediately before step iii).

15. A method of treating hair comprising the subsequent steps of:
i) contacting hair with a first composition comprising a chelant selected
from phosphonic acid type chelants, salts thereof, derivatives thereof and
mixtures thereof;
ii) contacting hair with a second composition comprising an oxidizing
agent immediately after step i);
iii) contacting hair with a third composition comprising a conditioning agent
immediately after step iii).

16. A kit for dyeing hair comprising a first and a second compositions
packaged in different containers, wherein said first composition comprises
an oxidizing agent and said second composition comprises an oxidative
dye precursor, characterized in that the resulting mixture of said first and
second compositions is a composition according to Claim 9.

33

Description

Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.



CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
OXIDIZING COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A PHOSPHONIC
ACID TYPE CHELANT AND A CONDITIONING AGENT
AND METHODS OF TREATING HAIR
FI ELD
The present invention relates to oxidizing compositions comprising a
phosphonic acid type chelant and a conditioning agent and to methods of
treating hair. The compositions and methods disclosed provide enhanced
1o deposition of conditioning agents on hair subjected to oxidative treatments
such
as bleaching, oxidative hair dyeing and perming.
BACKGROUND
Melanin is a natural pigment found in hair. Melanin and hair-forming cells
are naturally produced in the hair bulb at the root of the hair. As new cells
are
produced, the older ones are pushed upwards out of the skin to form the hair
shaft, which is the part of the hair that can be seen above the scalp. Hair
can be
schematically described as being made of a center part called the cortex,
which
contains the melanin, and an outer layer called the cuticle. It is the cortex
that
gives hair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl.
2o The hair shaft is made of dead cells that have turned into a mixture of
different forms of the special hair protein, keratin. Keratin contains high
concentrations of a particular amino acid called cystine. Every cystine unit
contains two cysteine amino acids in different chains, which have come to lie
near each other and are linked together by two sulphur atoms, forming a very
strong chemical bond known as a disulphide linkage. This cross-linking by
disulphide linkages between the keratin chains accounts for much of the
strength
of the hair.
Bleaching and dyeing (or coloring) of hair has become increasingly
popular over the past years. Younger people may want to change the natural
3o color of their hair to a more fashionable one, while older people may also
use
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dyeing compositions to conceal gray hair. As people grow older, the production
of melanin slows, giving more and more gray hair over time.
Melanin can also be purposely altered by chemical treatments to give
lighter shades. The lightening is achieved by oxidizing the melanin pigments
with
s an oxidizing composition, usually in alkaline solution. The oxidizing
compositions
(bleaches) comprise an oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide. Other
suitable oxidizing agents include potassium, sodium and ammonium salts of
perborate, percarbonate, persulfate and percarbamide.
Bleaches are also used during oxidative dyeing treatments. Oxidative (or
"permanent") dye compositions comprise "precursor dyes" which are small
molecules capable of diffusing into the hair. These molecules mainly belong to
three classes of aromatic compounds: diamines, aminophenols and phenols.
They are sufficiently small to diffuse in the hair shaft where, once activated
by an
oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, they further react with other
precursors to form larger colored complexes. Oxidative hair dye compositions
commonly contain, in addition to the dye precursors and a source of peroxide,
a
variety of additional cosmetic and peroxide stabilizing agents.
Oxidizing agents can activate oxidative dye precursors across a range of
pH. However, it is known that enhanced dye oxidation can be achieved via the
2o use of a hair-swelling agent (HSA) that can adjust the pH of the oxidizing
solution. Such HSA's further enhance the oxidizing and dyeing process by
swelling the hair fibers to aid both the diffusion of the peroxide and dyeing
agents
into the hair and enabling faster, more thorough dye oxidization and hair
dyeing.
Preferred hair-swelling agents for adjusting the pH of peroxide hair oxidizing
compositions are apueous alkaline solutions containing ammonia (ammonium
hydroxide) or monoethanolamine (MEA).
Low levels of chelants are routinely used as stabilizers or preservatives in
various oxidizing compositions. For example, EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic
acid) is commonly used as a stabilizer in hydrogen peroxide solution, which
3o would otherwise decompose too rapidly and could not be stored for a long
time.
Amounts as low as 0.1 % by weight of the oxidizing composition are usually
used
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to stabilize the oxidizing agent contained in said oxidizing compositions.
Oxidative treatments of hair such as bleaching (decoloration) and oxidative
dyeing give good results and are very commonly used. They are however not
without drawbacks, The oxidizing agents used for bleaching and oxidative
dyeing
damage hair to some extent. The mechanism by which damage is caused to the
hair fibers is not perfectly understood. However, it is known that some of the
disulphide bonds linking the keratin chains break in the presence of oxidizing
compositions. Repeated oxidative treatments leave weak, brittle hairs, which
have little shine and luster. An enormous effort has been made to address this
1o problem over the past years, and various solutions have been proposed.
US4,138,478 discloses agents for reducing the damage to hair during
bleaching and dyeing by the use of a water-soluble 3-amino-1-hydroxypropane-
1,1-diphosphonic compound for protecting hair from damage by "nascent
oxygen". According to this patent, "the diphosphonic compound is substantively
adsorbed by the hair and acts to hinder degradation of the hair by nascent
oxygen which is either present therewith or which is substantially added".
Other
protective compounds such as hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid (HEDP)
and ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP) are disclosed at
low levels in US3,202,579 and US3,542,918.
2o Today, most dyeing or bleaching compositions are sold with a conditioner
that is applied on hair after the bleaching or dyeing composition has been
rinsed
off. Examples of conditioning agents are silicones, cationic surfactants and
cationic polymers. Conditioners do not bring the hair back to its initial
condition
but conceal the damage under a protective layer of the conditioning agent;
which
2~ results in an improved feel of the hair.
It has now been surprisingly found that chelants having a phosphonic acid
moiety substantially increase , the deposition of conditioning agents (or
"conditioners") on hair during or after an oxidative treatment such as
bleaching or
oxidative dyeing resulting in longer-lasting improved hair feel. It has been
found
3o that for this purpose the chelants can be applied to hair either at the
same time
as the oxidizing composition or as a pre-treatment. Chelants, conditioning
agents
3


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and oxidizing compositions are preferably applied simultaneously.
Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the mechanism of
deposition of the conditioning agents is twofold. Firstly, phosphonic acid
type
chelants are believed to trap very efficiently environmental and intrinsic
heavy
metal ions such as iron, manganese and copper. It is believed that in the
absence of chelants, these heavy metal ions react with hydrogen peroxide and
form free radicals that weaken the structure of hair by destroying the
disulphide
bonds of keratin. It is furthermore believed that non-cationic conditioners
such as
silicones deposit less efficiently on damaged hair and therefore chelants, by
1o reducing oxidative hair damage, substantively increase the efficiency of
the
deposition of the conditioners.
Secondly, in 1888 Hofmeister classified ions by their ability to enhance or
decrease the solubility of proteins in water (known as the Hofmeister or
lyotropic
series). Phosphates were found to be particularly good at precipitating
proteins
and, although not wishing to be bound by theory, the Applicant believes that
phosphonate chelants interact with the conditioning agents in a similar way
when
used in the same composition, resulting in enhanced deposition.
SUMMARY
The present invention is directed to a composition suitable for treating hair
2o comprising, by weight of the composition:
a) an oxidizing agent;
b) a conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, especially
nonvolatile silicone and amino functionalised silicones, cationic surfactants,
cationic polymers, alkoxylated amines and mixtures thereof; and
c) a chelant selected from phosphonic acid type chelant, salts thereof,
derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof.
The present invention is also directed to a method of treating hair
comprising the step of contacting hair with a composition according to the
above
definition.
3o The present invention is also directed to a method of treating hair
4


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comprising the subsequent steps of:
i) contacting hair with a first composition comprising:
a) a conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, especially
nonvolatile silicone and amino functionalised silicones, cationic polymers,
alkoxylated amines and mixtures thereof and;
b) a chelant selected from phosphonic acid type chelants, salts
thereof, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof;
ii) optionally rinsed said first composition off hair;
iii) contacting hair with a second composition comprising an oxidizing
1 o agent immediately after step i) or ii).
The present invention is also directed to a method of treating . hair
comprising the steps of:
i) contacting hair with a first composition comprising an oxidizing agent
and a chelant selected from phosphonic acid type chelants, salts thereof,
derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof;
ii) optionally rinsing said first composition off hair; and
iii) contacting hair immediately after step i) or ii) with a second
composition
comprising a conditioning agent selected from silicone materials, especially
nonvolatile silicone and amino functionalised silicones, cationic surfactants,
2o cationic polymers, alkoxylated amines and mixtures thereof.
The present invention is further directed to kits adapted for treating hair
according to these methods.
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present
invention will become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of
the
present disclosure.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
While the specification concludes with claims which particularly point out
and distinctly claim the invention, it is believed the present invention will
be better
understood from the following description.
3o As used herein the term "hair" to be treated may be "living" i.e. on a
living
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body or may be "non-living" i.e. in a wig, hairpiece or other aggregation of
non-
living keratinous fibers. Mammalian, preferably human hair is preferred.
However
wool, fur and other keratin containing fibers are suitable substrates for the
compositions according to the present invention.
As used herein, the term "oxidizing composition" means a composition
comprising at least one oxidizing agent suitable for use on hair, such as
hydrogen peroxide, sodium, potassium, ammonium or other salts of perborate,
percarbonate, persulfate and percarbamide. Non-limiting examples of such
compositions are oxidative dye compositions and bleaching compositions.
1o As used herein the term "oxidative treatment of hair" or "hair treatment
comprising at least one oxidative step" is used in the broad sense in that it
is
intended to encompass all treatments of hair comprising at least one step of
contacting hair with at least one oxidizing composition. Preferred examples of
oxidative treatment for human hair are bleaching, dyeing or perming.
As used herein the term "immediately" means within about 1 hour,
preferably within about 30mn, more preferably within about l5mn.
All percentages are by weight of the total composition unless specifically
stated otherwise. When more than one composition are used during a treatment,
the total weight to be considered is the total weight of all the compositions
2o applied on hair simultaneously (i.e. the weight found "on head") unless
otherwise
specified. All ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated otherwise.
All cited references are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as
to
its availability as prior art to the claimed invention.
Chelants
The term "chelant" (or "chelating agent" or "sequestering agent") is well
known in the art and refers to a molecule or a mixture of different molecules
each
capable of forming a chelate with a metal ion. A chelate is an inorganic
complex
in which a compound (chelant) is coordinated to a metal ion at two or more
points
so so that there is a ring of atoms including the metals. Chelants contain two
or
6


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more electron donor atoms that form the coordination bonds with the metal ion.
Cheiants are well known in the art and a non-exhaustive list thereof can be
found in AE Martell & RM Smith, Critical Stability Constants, Vol. 1, Plenum
Press, New York & London (1974) and AE Martell & RD Hancock, Metal
Complexes in Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996) both
incorporated herein by reference.
When related to chelants, the terms "salts and derivatives thereof" mean
all salts and derivatives comprising the same functional structure (same
chemical
backbone) as the chelant they are referring to and having similar or better
1 o chelating properties. These terms include alkali metal, alkaline earth,
ammonium,
substituted ammonium salts (e.g monoethanolammonium, diethanolammonium,
triethanolammonium), esters of chelants having an acidic moeity and mixtures
thereof, in particular all sodium, potassium or ammonium salts. The term
"Derivatives" also includes "chelating surfactant" compounds (these are
chelants
modified to bear a surfactant moiety while keeping the same chelating
functionality, see US5284972, "N-acyl-N,N',N'-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid"
for
an example of modified ethylenediaminetriacetic acid). The term "Derivatives"
also includes large molecules comprising one or more chelating groups having
the same functional structure as the parent chelant. Examples of these large
2o molecules include polymeric EDDS (ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid) made of
unit block according to the following structure:
N
"EDDS unit"
H02C ;02H
H02C C02H
and disclosed in US5,747,440 Kellett et al. "Polymeric" phosphonic acid type
chelant derivatives based on this model and repeating the functional structure
of
the phosphonic acid type chelants described hereinafter can be synthesized
using the teaching of this document.
7


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The compositions according to the present invention comprise a chelant
selected from phosphonic acid type chelants, salts thereof, derivatives
thereof
and mixtures thereof. Phosphonic acid type chelants are defined as chelants
comprising a phosphonic acid moiety (- POgH2) or its derivative - POgR2
wherein R is an alkyl or aryl radical.
Suitable phosphonic acid type chelants include aminopolyphosphonic
acids and polyphosphonic acids.
Suitable polyphosphonic acids and polyphosphonic derivatives include
compounds having the formula (I) below:
OR1 I I I ORf
OH X OH (I)
wherein: X is -OH or -NH2;
Rj is an aryl radical , an aliphatic radical having 1 to 5 carbon atoms or the
radical (la) below:
OR2
O=P OH
CH2- ~ X
O=P-OH
OR2 (la)
and wherein each R2 are independently selected from H or alkyl radicals having
from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
Suitable aminopolyphosphosphonic acid and aminopolyphosphosphonic
derivatives include chelants having the following formula (II):
P03H2
R1
~N CH2-CH2 C OH
R1
P03H2 (1l)
8


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wherein each Ri are independently selected from H or C1-C3 alkyl.
Preferred phosphonic acid type chelants for use herein have the formula
(III) below:
X
_I
R1
X
N C P03H2
I
Rl I X
X (III)
wherein each X are independently selected from hydrogen or alkyl radicals,
preferably hydrogen or alkyl radicals having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms,
preferably
hydrogen; and each R1 are independently selected from -P03H2 or a group
having the formula (Illa) below:
X
~ =-P03H2
,~X
CHI N
X
C-P03H2
I
1o X (Illa)
Preferred chelants according to Formula (III) for use herein are aminotri-
(1-ethylphosphonic acid), ethylenediaminetetra-(1-ethylphosphonic acid),
aminotri-(1-propylphosphonic acid), aminotri-(isopropylphosphonic acid) and
chelants having the formula (IV) below:
Rz-CHa
N CHZ P03H2
R2 C ~ (IV)
wherein each R2 are independently selected from -P03H2 or a group having the
9


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fiormula (IVa) below:
CHZ-pOsH2
CH2 N
CH2-P03H2 (IVa)
Especially preferred chelants according to formula (IV) for use herein are
aminotri-(methjrlenephosphonic acid), ethylene-diamine-tetra-
(methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP) and diethylene-triamine-penta-
(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP).
When used simultaneously with an oxidizing agent and a conditioning
agents, chelants usually give good benefits above about 0.1 %, prefierably
above
about 0.25% by weight ofi the composition. For most chelants the best results
1o were achieved at levels of above about 0.5% by weight. Levels above 5% can
also be used but it would not be practical to use such high amounts for
regulatory
and safety reasons. Preferred range is therefore of from above about 0.5% to
about 5%, more preferably of from above about 1 % to about 4%, even more
preferably of above about 2% to about 4%.
When used as a pretreatment (first composition) prior to the oxidizing
step, chelants usually give good benefit at levels above 0.1 %, preferably
above
0.25%, more preferably above 0.5%, even more preferably above 1 % by weight
of said first composition used for the pretreatment (referred to in the claims
and
herein as "first composition"). For most chelants the best results were
achieved
2o at levels of about 2% by weight of the first composition.
When the conditioning agent is applied to hair as a post treatment after a
first composition comprising a chelant and an oxidizing agent, said chelant is
preferably present in the first composition at levels above 0.1 %, preferably
above
0.25%, more preferably above 0.5%, even more preferably above 1 % by weight
of said first composition. Levels above 5% can also be used but it would not
be
practical to use such high amounts for regulatory and safety reasons.
Preferred
range is therefore of from above about 2% to about 5%, more preferably of from


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
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above about 2% to about 4%.
Conditioning agent
The compositions of the present invention comprise or are used in
combination with a composition comprising a conditioning agent. Conditioning
agents for use herein are selected from silicone materials, especially
nonvolatile
silicone and amino functionalised silicones, cationic surfactants, cationic
polymers, alkoxylated amines and mixtures thereof.
The conditioning agent will generally be used at levels of from about
0.05% to about 20% by weight of the composition, preferably of from about 0.1
1 o to about 15%, more preferably of from about 0.2% to about 10%, even more
preferably of from about 0.2% to about 2%. The minimum level that is used in a
particular composition should be effective to provide a conditioning benefit.
The
maximum level that can be used is not limited by theory, but rather by
practicality.
It is generally unnecessary and expensive to use levels in excess of about 10%
15 and, depending on the type of agent (polymeric conditioners being most
prone),
such high levels can cause an undesirable weighting down of the hair.
When used as post-treatment immediately after the oxidizing composition
has been applied and optionally rinsed off, the levels of conditioner in the
post
treatment composition are similar as those disclosed above, but by weight of
the
2o composition applied as a post-treatment.
Silicone materials
Suitable silicone conditioning agents for use herein include nonvolatile and
insoluble compound that intermix in the composition so as to be in the form of
an
emulsion, i.e., a separate, discontinuous phase of dispersed, insoluble
droplets,
25 usually suspended with a suspending agent. This dispersed silicone
conditioning
component will comprise a silicone fluid hair conditioning agent such as a
silicone fluid and can also comprise other ingredients, such as a silicone
resin to
enhance silicone fluid deposition efficiency or, for example, enhance
glossiness
of the hair (especially when high refractive index (e.g. above about 1.46)
silicone
3o conditioning agents are used (e.g. highly phenylated silicones).
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The silicone conditioning agent phase may comprise volatile silicone
components. Typically, if volatile silicones are present, it will be
incidental to their
use as a solvent or carrier for commercially available forms of nonvolatile
silicone
materials ingredients, such as silicone gums and resins.
The silicone conditioning agent component for use herein will preferably
have viscosity of from about 2.10-5 m2/s to about 2 m2/s (from about 20 to
about
2,000,000 centistokes) at 25°C, more preferably from about 10-3 m2/s to
about
1.8 m2/s (from about 1,000 to about 1,800,000 cSt), even more preferably from
about 5.102 m2/s to about 1.5 m2/s (from about 50,000 to about 1,500,000 cSt),
1 o most preferably from about 10-' m2/s to about 1.5 m2/s (from about 100,000
to
about 1,500,000 cSt). The viscosity can be measured by means of a glass
capillary viscometer as set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method
CTM0004, July 20, 1970.
One type of silicone fluid that can be used herein is a silicone oil. The term
15 "silicone oil" shall mean flowable silicone materials having a viscosity of
less than
1 m2/s (1,000,000 centistokes) at 25°C. Generally, the viscosity of the
fluid will
be between about 5.10-6m2/s and 1 m2/s (between about 5 and 1,000,000
centistokes) at 25°C, preferably between about 10-5m2/s and 0.1 m2/s
(between
about 10 and about 100,000 cSt). Suitable silicone oils include polyalkyl
2o siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes, polyether siloxane
copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other insoluble, nonvolatile silicone fluids
having hair conditioning properties can also be used. More particularly
silicone
oils hereof include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes having the general
formula:
R I R
_I


K- i -O -


S Si O - Si-R


R R J R


x


12


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
wherein R is aliphatic, preferably alkyl or alkenyl, or aryl, substituted or
unsubstituted radical, and x is an integer from 1 to about 8,000. Suitable
unsubstituted R groups include alkoxy, aryloxy, alkaryl, arylalkyl,
arylalkenyl,
alkamino, and ether-substituted, hydroxyl-substituted, and halogen-substituted
aliphatic and aryl groups. Suitable R groups also include cationic amines and
quaternary ammonium groups.
The aliphatic or aryl groups substituted on the siloxane chain may have
any structure as long as the resulting silicones remain fluid at room
temperature,
are hydrophobic, are neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when
applied
1o to the hair and l or skin, are compatible with the other components of the
composition, are chemically stable under normal use and storage conditions,
are
insoluble in the composition, and are capable of being deposited on and, of
conditioning, the hair and / or skin. The two R groups on the silicon atom of
each
monomeric silicone unit may represent the same group or different groups.
15 Preferably, the two R groups represent the same group.
Preferred alkyl and alkenyl substituents are C1-C5 alkyls and alkenyls,
more preferably from C1-Cq., most preferably from C1-C2. The aliphatic
portions
of other alkyl-, alkenyl-, or alkynyl-containing groups (such as alkoxy,
alkaryl, and
alkamino) can be straight or branched chains and preferably have from one to
2o five carbon atoms, more preferably from one to four carbon atoms, even more
preferably from one to three carbon atoms, most preferably from one to two
carbon atoms. As discussed above, the R substituents hereof can also contain
amino functionalities, e.g. alkamino groups, which can be primary, secondary
or
tertiary amines or quaternary ammonium. These include mono-, di- and tri-
es alkylamino and alkoxyamino groups wherein the aliphatic portion chain
length is
preferably as described above. The R substituents can also be substituted with
other groups, such as halogens (e.g. chloride, fluoride, and bromide),
halogenated aliphatic or aryl groups, and hydroxy (e.g. hydroxy substituted
aliphatic groups). Suitable halogenated R groups could include, for example,
tri-
3o halogenated (preferably fluoro) alkyl groups such as -R1-C(F)3, wherein R1
is
C1-C3 alkyl. Examples of such polysiloxanes include polymethyl -3,3,3
13


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
trifluoropropylsiloxane.
The nonvolatile polyalkylsiloxane fluids that may be used include, for
example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example,
from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil R and SF 96 series, and
from
Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series. Also suitable for use herein is
Dow Corning DC 1664 (TN) 60,000 cstk polydimethyl siloxane with 300nm
particle size which is preferably used in combination with a deposition aid.
Polydimethyl silicone is also known as dimethicone oil. Other suitable R
groups
include methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. The three R groups on
1 o the end .caps of the silicone may also represent the same or different
groups.
Suitable R groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and
phenylmethyl. The preferred silicones are polydimethyl siloxane,
polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane is
especially preferred.
The polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids that may be used, also include, for
example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for
example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid or
from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.
Other suitable silicone conditioning agents are disclosed in WO9804237
2o p.22-p.29 incorporated herein by reference.
The polyether siloxane copolymers that may be used include, for example,
a polypropylene oxide modified polydimethylsiloxane (e.g., Dow Corning
DC-1248) although ethylene oxide or mixtures of ethylene oxide and propylene
oxide may also be used. The ethylene oxide and polypropylene oxide level must
be sufficiently low to prevent solubility in water and the composition hereof.
Alkylamino substituted silicones that can be used herein include those of the
formula:
14


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
CH3 I OH
f30 ~ Si - O Si - O H
I_ cH3 J X L OHZ)3 JI 5~
NH (CHZ)~NH~
in which x and y are integers which depend on the molecular weight, the
average
molecular weight being approximately between 5,000 and 10,000. This polymer
is also known as "amodimethicone". Other aminosilicones suitable for use
herein
are available from the General Electric Company under the trade names SF1703,
SM2115, SM2101, and SM2658.
Cationic surfactants
Cationic surfactants useful in compositions of the present invention
contain amino or quaternary ammonium hydrophilic moieties which are positively
1o charged when dissolved in the aqueous composition of the present invention.
Cationic surfactants containing quaternary ammonium moieties and silicone
moieties can also be employed. Cationic surfactants among those useful herein
are disclosed in the following documents, all incorporated by reference
herein:
M.C. Publishing Co., McCutcheon's, Detergents & Emulsifiers, (North American
edition 1979); Schwartz, et al., Surface Active Agents, Their Chemistry and
Technology, New York: Interscience Publishers, 1949; U.S. Patent 3,155,591,
Hilfer, issued November 3, 1964; U.S. Patent 3,929,678, Laughlin, et al.,
issued
December 30, 1975; U.S. Patent 3,959,461, Bailey, et al., issued May 25, 1976;
and U.S. Patent 4,387,090, Bolich, Jr., issued June 7, 1983.
2o Among the quaternary ammonium-containing cationic surfactant materials
useful herein are those of the general formula:


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
RlwN~R3
X
R2~ ~h4
wherein R1-R4 are independently an aliphatic group of from about 1 to about 22
carbon atoms, aryl, or an alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl,
or
alkylaryl group having from about 1 to about 22 carbon atoms; and X is an
anion
selected from halogen (especially chlorine), acetate, phosphate, nitrate and
alkylsulfate (preferably C1-C3 alkyl) radicals. The aliphatic groups may
contain,
in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, ether linkages, and other groups
such
as amino groups. The longer chain aliphatic groups, e.g., those of about 12
carbons, or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated.
1 o Quaternary ammonium salts include dialkyldimethyl-ammonium chlorides,
wherein the alkyl groups have from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms and are
derived from long-chain fatty acids, such as hydrogenated tallow fatty acid
(tallow
fatty acids yield quaternary compounds wherein R1 and R2 have predominately
from 16 to 18 carbon atoms). Other cationic surfactants include those wherein
at
least one of the R1-Rq. radicals contains one or more hydrophilic moieties
selected from alkoxy (preferably C1-C3 alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene (Preferably C1-

Cg polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, and combinations
thereof. Optionally, the cationic conditioning surfactant contains from 2 to
about
10 nonionic hydrophile moieties in the R1-R4 groups. For purposes herein, each
2o hydrophilic amido, alkoxy, hydroxyalkyl, alkylester, alkylamido or other
unit is
considered to be a distinct nonionic hydrophile moiety.
Other cationic surfactants useful herein are disclosed in WO9632919
incorporated herein by reference.
Cationic~olymers
Suitable cationic polymers are disclosed in W09632919 p.17-21,
incorporated herein by reference. Examples of cationic polysaccharide polymer
materials suitable for use herein include those of the formula:
16


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
Ri
A-O-R-(- i R3 X-)
R2
wherein:
A is an anhydroglucose residual group, such as a starch or cellulose
anhydroglucose residual,
R is an alkylene oxyalkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene
group, or combination thereof,
R1, R2, and R3 independently are alkyl, aryl, alkyl, aryl, arylalkyl,
alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl groups, each group containing up to about 18
carbon atoms, and the total number of carbon atoms for each cationic
1 o moiety (i.e., the sum of carbon atoms in R1, R2 and R3) preferably
being about 20 or less, and
X is an anionic counterion, as previously described.
Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in
their Polymer JRTN~ LRTN, KGTN and LKTN series of polymers, as salts of
hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide,
referred to in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 10. Another type of
cationic
cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl
cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide, referred
to
in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24. These materials are available
from
2o Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the tradename Polymer LM-200 (or
Quatrisoft).
Alkoxylated amines
Alkoxylated amines are conditioning agents conforming to the formula:
(CH2CH0)XH
R-N
~(CHZCHO)yH
z5 wherein R is an alkyl, preferably having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and x
and y
are integers, preferably wherein x+y is in the range of from 1 to 100, more
17


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
preferably 50, event more preferably of between 1 to 20.
Oxidizing agents
The compositions according to the present invention comprise or are used
in combination with a composition that comprises at least one oxidizing agent.
s Preferred oxidizing agents for use herein are water-soluble peroxygen
oxidizing
agents. "Water-soluble" as defined herein means that in standard condition at
least 0.1 g, preferably 1 g, more preferably 1 Og of said oxidizing agent can
be
dissolved in 1 liter of deionized water. The oxidizing agents are valuable for
the
initial solubilisation and decolorisation of the melanin (bleaching) and
accelerate
1 o the polymerization of the oxidative dye precursors (oxidative dyeing) in
the hair
shaft.
Preferred water-soluble oxidizing agents are inorganic peroxygen
materials capable of yielding hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution. Water-
soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents are well known in the art and include
15 hydrogen peroxide, inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium
periodate
and sodium peroxide and organic peroxides such as urea peroxide, melamine
peroxide, and inorganic perhydrate salt bleaching compounds, such as the
alkali
metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates, persilicates,
persulphates and the like. These inorganic perhydrate salts may be
incorporated
2o as monohydrates, tetrahydrates etc. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing
agents can be used if desired. Preferred for use in the compositions according
to
the present invention is hydrogen peroxide.
In conventional dyeing and bleaching compositions, levels of peroxygen
oxidizing agent are usually of from about 0.1 % to about 7% by weight. Higher
25 levels, whilst giving good results in term of efficacy were until now not
practical
because of increased hair damage. The oxidative damage protection provided by
the present invention makes it now possible to use oxidizing agent such as
hydrogen peroxide in level up to 40% in the oxidizing composition. However,
for
safety reasons, level above 12% should be carefully investigated before being
3o used on human. Preferably, the level of the oxidizing agent in the
oxidizing
18


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
composition is of from about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, more preferably of
from about 1 % to about 15%. The compositions according to the present
invention provide excellent gray coverage, vibrant colors and acceptable
damage
at level above about 7% (typically about 12%).
s Additional components
Moreover, it is also intended that the compositions of the present invention
may be complex compositions, which in addition to the chelant and oxidizing
agent comprise other components that may or may not be active ingredients.
This includes, but is not limited to, buffering agents, hair dyeing agents
such as
oxidative dye precursors, non-oxidative dyes, thickeners, solvents, enzymes,
anionic, non ionic, amphoteric and cationic surfactants, carriers,
antioxidants,
stabilizers, perming actives, perfume, hair swelling agents and/or polymers.
Some of these additional components are detailed hereafter.
Finally, the compositions according to the present invention can be
provided in any usual form, such as for example an aqueous composition, a
powder, a gel or an oil-in-water emulsion. Preferred media for the
compositions
according to the present invention are thickened aqueous solutions comprising
a
salt-tolerant thickener or oil-in-water emulsions.
pH buffering agents
2o The compositions according to the present invention preferably further
comprise a pH buffering agent. The pH of the composition is preferably of from
about 8 to about 12, more preferably of from about 9 to about 11, even more
preferably of from about 9.5 to about 10.5. Suitable buffering agents are well
known in the art and include for example an ammonialammonium acetate
mixture and monoethanolamine (MEA).
Oxidative hair dye precursors
These compounds are well known in the art, and include aromatic
diamines, aminophenols and their derivatives (a representative but not
exhaustive list of oxidation dye precursor can be found in Sagarin, "Cosmetic
19


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
Science and Technology", "Interscience, Special Edn. Vol. 2 pages 308 to 310).
Precursors can be used with couplers. Couplers are generally colorless
molecules that can form colors in the presence of activated precursors.
The choice of precursors and couplers will be determined by the color,
shade and intensity of coloration that is desired. The precursors and couplers
can be used herein, singly or in combination, to provide dyes having a variety
of
shades ranging from ash blonde to black.
Hair dye compositions will generally comprise from about 0.001 % to about
10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 2%, of oxidative dye precursors and
1 o couplers.
Thickeners
The composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise
at least about 0.1 % of thickeners. Thickeners are preferably comprised in
amount sufficient to provide the composition with a viscosity of from about 1
Pa.s
to 10 Pa.s (1,000 to 10,000 cP) at 26°C in order to provide a
composition that
can be readily applied to the hair without dripping.
Preferred for use herein are salt tolerant thickeners. Salt-tolerant
thickeners are functionally defined herein as compounds that increases the
viscosity of an aqueous composition consisting of 3.8% DTPMP (tetrasodium
2o salt) and 1.95% NH3 to at least 1 Pa.s (1,000 cP) when incorporated at
levels of
2% by weight as measured at 28.7°C. The viscosity can be measured with
a
Brookfield viscometer DVII, using S41 spindles for samples under 10 Pa.s
(10,000 cP) and spindle S52 for samples over 10 Pa.s (10,000 cP) (available
from Brookfield), with a speed rating of 1 revolution per minute and samples
sizes of 2m! (for S41 spindle) or 0.5 ml (for S52 spindle).
A non exclusive list of suitable salt tolerant thickeners for use herein
include xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methyl cellulose,
ethyl
cellulose (commercially available as Aquacote~), hydroxyethyl cellulose
(Natrosol~), carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose,
so microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl
cellulose


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
(Klucel~), hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose
(Natrosol~
Plus 330), N-vinylpyrollidone (Povidone~), Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate
Copolymer (Structure~ 3001), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure~ ZEA),
polyethoxylated urethanes or polycarbamyl polyglycol ester (e.g. PEG-
150/Decyl/SMDI copolymer = Aculyn~ 44, PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI copolymer =
Aculyn 46~ ), trihydroxystearin (Thixcin~) acrylates copolymer (e.g. Aculyn~
33)
or hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (e.g. Acrylates / Steareth-20
Methacrylate Copolymer = Aculyn~ 22).
Fatty alcohols have thickening properties and can be used in the
1 o compositions present invention. Fatty alcohols are however not salt-
tolerant
thickeners according to the above definition. A mixture of 2% cetyl and
stearyl
alcohol has for example a viscosity of less than about 0.7 Pa.s (700 cP) as
measured at 26°C with a Brookfield viscometer in the conditions
disclosed
hereabove.
EXAMPLES
The following examples illustrate oxidative dye compositions according to
the present invention. It is understood that the examples and embodiments
described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various
modifications
or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art
without
2o departing from the scope of the present invention.
Examples of formulation: emulsion
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Sodium sulphite ~ 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Ascorbic Acid I 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
Ammonium Acetate ~ 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5
Ammonia 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0
(30% active)
Ceteareth 25 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
21


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
Cetyl Alcohol 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6


Stearyl Alcohol3,3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3 3.3


Sodium Benzoate0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0,1


Phenoxyethanol0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1


HEDP 1.5 - - - 2.5 1.0 - 1.0 0.5 5.0


(disodium salt
of)


EDTMP - 0.6 1.0 - 0.5 0.5 - 1.5 -


(tetrasodium
salt of)


DTPMP - - 1 1.0 0.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 -


(tetrasodium
salt of)


Para-phenyiene 0.8 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.8 0.8 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.8


diamine


Para-aminophenol0.2 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.2


Meta-aminophenol1.0 0.5 1.0 0.6 1.0 1.0 0.5 1.0 0.6 1.0


Resorcinol 1.6 1.2 1.6 0.8 1.6 1.6 1.2 1.6 0.8 1.6


Hydrogen Peroxide8.6 8.6 8.6 13 17 17 17 34 34 34


(35% active)


Trimethylsilylamodi-0.5 0.5 1.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0


methicone (SF1708
)


Polyquaternium 0.2 0.2 - 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 - - -



(Polymer JR30M)


Xanthan gum 0.5 0.5 - 1.0 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0


Cetyl hydroxyethyl- - 0.8 1.0 0.8 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0


Cellulose


(Natrosol 330CS
Plus)


pH adjust to qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs
pH 10


Water ~ qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs
Example of formulation:
tHickened aqueous
solution


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10


Sodium sulphite 0.1 0.10.1 0.10.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1


Ascorbic Acid 0.1 0.10.1 0.10.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1


Citric Acid 1.0 1.01.0 1.01.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0


22


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
Ammonia 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0 6.0
(30% active)
Acrylates Copolymer 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4
(Aculyn 33A)
Oleth 1 0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
Oleth 2 I 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8
Oleic Acid I 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9
Cocamide DEA I 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
HEDP 1.5 - - - 2.5 1.0 - 1.0 0.5 5.0


(disodium salt
ofi)


EDTMP - 0.6 1.0 - 0.5 0.5 - 1.5 -


(tetrasodium
salt of)


DTPMP - - 1 1.0 0.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0


(tetrasodium
salt of)


Para-phenylene 0.8 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.8 0.8 0.5 0.6 0.5 0.8


diamine


Para-aminophenol0.2 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.3 0.2 0.1 0.2


Meta-aminophenol1.0 0.5 1.0 0.6 1.0 1.0 0.5 1.0 0.6 1.0


Resorcinol 1.6 1.2 1.6 0.8 1.6 1.6 1.2 1.6 0.8 1.6


Hydrogen Peroxide8.6 8.6 8.6 13 17 17 17 34 34 34


(35% active)


Behentrimonium 0.5 0.5 1.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0


Chloride


Dicetyldimonium 0.2 0.2 0.7 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 - - -


Chloride


Acrylates Steareth-0.5 0.5 0.0 1.0 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 1.0


20 Methacrylate


Copolymer (Aculyn
22)


Propylene Glycol8.2 8:2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2 8.2


Ethoxy Diglycol 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2


pH adjust to qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs
pH 10


Water qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs


The above compositions are useful for dyeing hair with reduced damage
23


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
and improved conditioner deposition. Similar compositions not including
oxidative
dye precursors and couplers (in the above examples para-aminophenol, meta-
aminophenol and resorcinol) can be used for bleaching (lightening) hair.
Oxidative hair dye compositions are usually sold in kits comprising, in
separate containers, a dye component (also called "dye cream" for emulsion or
"dye liquid" for solution) comprising the oxidative dye precursors (and
usually the
Hair Swelling Agent) and a hydrogen peroxide component (also called "hydrogen
peroxide cream" for emulsion or "hydrogen peroxide liquid" for solution)
comprising the oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide). The consumer mixes
io the dye component and hydrogen peroxide component immediately before use.
The examples of the tables above illustrate the resulting mixtures.
Similarly, bleaching compositions are usually sold as a kit comprising two
or three separate containers. The first contains the hair-swelling agent (e.g.
ammonia), the second contains the oxidizing agent and the third (optional)
contains a second oxidizing agent (e.g. alkali or ammonium salt of
persulphates,
percarbonate, perborate). The bleaching compositions are obtained by mixing
the above-mentioned compositions immediately before use.
These kits are well known in the art and the composition in each container
can be manufactured utilizing any one of the standard approaches, these
2o include:
~ Oil in water process
~ Phase Inversion process
~ One-pot process
The chelants are usually added to a proportion of the water at the start of
the making process at ambient temperature, and allowed to dissolve. The fatty
components are then added and the mixture is processed as is normal for the
above outlined procedures. For example, in a 1 pot process the polymers and
chelants would be predissolved in water, the fatty materials added and then
the
whole heated to about 70-80°C.
24


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
A controlled cooling and optional shearing process to form the final
structured product in the case of an emulsion would then follow. Addition of
the
ammonia and pH trimming complete the making process of the dye cream.
In the case of a liquid solution comprising acrylate polymers, these would
be formulated into the hydrogen peroxide component. The glycol solvents and
fatty components are formulated into the dye component. A structured product
is formed when the dye and hydrogen peroxide components are mixed together
prior to use of the composition, through deprotonation of the polymer acrylic
acid
groups yielding a polymeric micro-gel. Further details on the manufacture of
1 o these two-part aqueous composition for coloring hair, which forms a gel on
mixing of the two parts can be found in US 5,376,146, Casperson et al. and
US5,393,305, Cohen et al.
The composition of the present invention can also be formulated as 2-part
aqueous compositions comprising polyetherpolyurethane as thickening agent
15 (such as Aculyn ~ 46) as described in US 6,156,076, Casperson et al. and
US6,106,578, Jones.
When the compositions of different containers are mixed before use and
the resulting mixture comprises the chelants and conditioning agents claimed,
there is no preference on how the chelants and conditioning agents are
2o distributed in these containers. Obviously chelants that can be altered by
hydrogen peroxide (or any oxidizing agent used) such as secondary amine
chelants should however be formulated in the dye component. The hydrogen
peroxide component should however preferably comprise at least about 0.1 % of
a stable chelant to stabilize hydrogen peroxide. This stabilizer (which is not
25 necessary a phosphonate chelant) is required to prevent the hydrogen
peroxide
from decomposing too rapidly . For example EDTA can be used in the hydrogen
peroxide component as stabilizer.
METHODS OF USE
It is understood that the examples of methods of use and embodiments
3o described herein are for illustrative purposes only and that various
modifications


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
or changes in light thereof will be suggested to one skilled in the art
without
departing from the scope of the present invention.
Without pretreatment
The chelants according to the present invention are preferably formulated
directly in the oxidizing compositions applied on hair (e.g. oxidative dye
composition or bleach).
Oxidative d rLe
Oxidative dye compositions are usually sold as a kit comprising at least
two separate containers: one contains the oxidative dye precursors with the
hair-
1o swelling agent (e.g. ammonia) in a suitable carrier (e.g. dye cream or
liquid) and
the other contains the oxidizing agent in a suitable carrier (e.g. hydrogen
peroxide cream or liquid). The consumer prepares the oxidative dye composition
immediately before use by mixing both compositions and applies it on hair.
After
working the mixture a few minutes (to insure uniform application to all of the
hair),
the oxidative dye composition is allowed to remain on the hair for an amount
sufficient for the dyeing to take place (usually about 30 minutes). The
consumer
then rinses his/her hair thoroughly with tap water and allows it to dry. It is
observed that the hair has changed from its original color to the desired
color.
The conditioning agent can also be packaged partly or in totality in a third
2o container. In this case, all three compositions can be mixed immediately
before
use and applied together, or the content of the third container can be applied
(with an optional rinse step) as post-treatment immediately after the
oxidative dye
composition resulting from the mixture of the other containers.
Bleaching compositions
Bleaching compositions are usually sold as a kit comprising two or three
separate containers. The first contains the hair-swelling agent (e.g.
ammonia),
the second contains the oxidizing agent and the third (optional) contains a
second oxidizing agent (e.g. alkali or ammonium salt of persulphates,
percarbonate, perborate). The consumer prepares the bleaching compositions
26


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
immediately before use by mixing all compositions and applies the mixture on
hair (as for the oxidative dye composition) for an amount of time sufficient
for the
bleaching to take place (usually about 30mn).
The conditioning agent can also be packaged partly or in totality in an
additional third or fourth container. In this case, all compositions can be
mixed
together iriimediately before use or the content of the additional container
can be
applied (with an optional preliminary rinse step) as a post-treatment
immediately
after the bleaching composition resulting from the mixture of the other
containers.
With pretreatment
The chelants and conditioners can also be applied to hair as a pre-
treatment. The pretreatment composition ("first composition") can be applied
immediately before the oxidizing composition ("second composition") or after a
longer period of time.
Pretreatment immediately followed by an oxidizing composition
In the case of a pretreatment applied on hair and immediately followed by
the oxidizing composition, said pretreatment composition can be rinsed off
hair
before the application of the oxidizing composition, but will be preferably
kept on
the hair during the application of the oxidizing compositions, the resulting
mixture
being rinsed off following the oxidizing step. Kits comprising one container
for the
2o first composition (pre-treat) and one, two or more containers for the
second
composition (oxidizing composition) can be advantageously used for this
method.
Two containers or more can be required for the second composition in case this
second composition is prepared immediately before use by mixing the content of
two containers or more (e.g. oxidative hair dye composition or bleaching
composition). The kit can also comprise an additional container for a
composition
comprising a conditioning agent that is applied independently from the second
composition in a third step, optionally following a rinsing step.
When the pretreatment comprises a chelant and a conditioning agent, the
conditioning agent is selected from silicone materials, especially ,
nonvolatile
3o silicone and amino functionalised silicones, cationic polymers, alkoxylated
27


CA 02437070 2003-07-29
WO 02/078661 PCT/US02/08478
amines and mixtures thereof.
Color care
The pretreatment can also take place as a "color care" treatment anytime
between two oxidative treatments but not immediately prior to one. The 2
oxidative treatments are preferably separated by at least one day, more
preferably at least one week. Oxidative hair dye treatments are generally
repeated about once a month and obviously, hair will be usually rinsed with
water
immediately after each oxidative treatment. The "color care" treatment can be
repeated as many times as practical between these 2 oxidative treatments,
which
1 o can be once, twice or more.
28

Representative Drawing

Sorry, the representative drawing for patent document number 2437070 was not found.

Administrative Status

For a clearer understanding of the status of the application/patent presented on this page, the site Disclaimer , as well as the definitions for Patent , Administrative Status , Maintenance Fee  and Payment History  should be consulted.

Administrative Status

Title Date
Forecasted Issue Date Unavailable
(86) PCT Filing Date 2002-03-19
(87) PCT Publication Date 2002-10-10
(85) National Entry 2003-07-29
Examination Requested 2003-07-29
Dead Application 2008-12-05

Abandonment History

Abandonment Date Reason Reinstatement Date
2007-12-05 R30(2) - Failure to Respond
2008-03-19 FAILURE TO PAY APPLICATION MAINTENANCE FEE

Payment History

Fee Type Anniversary Year Due Date Amount Paid Paid Date
Request for Examination $400.00 2003-07-29
Registration of a document - section 124 $100.00 2003-07-29
Application Fee $300.00 2003-07-29
Maintenance Fee - Application - New Act 2 2004-03-19 $100.00 2003-07-29
Maintenance Fee - Application - New Act 3 2005-03-21 $100.00 2004-12-17
Maintenance Fee - Application - New Act 4 2006-03-20 $100.00 2006-01-17
Maintenance Fee - Application - New Act 5 2007-03-19 $200.00 2007-01-05
Owners on Record

Note: Records showing the ownership history in alphabetical order.

Current Owners on Record
THE PROCTER & GAMBLE COMPANY
Past Owners on Record
DUNBAR, JAMES CHARLES
MCKELVEY, GRAHAM NEIL
Past Owners that do not appear in the "Owners on Record" listing will appear in other documentation within the application.
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Document
Description 
Date
(yyyy-mm-dd) 
Number of pages   Size of Image (KB) 
Abstract 2003-07-29 1 59
Claims 2003-07-29 5 159
Description 2003-07-29 28 1,283
Cover Page 2003-09-26 1 36
Description 2004-04-13 29 1,319
Claims 2004-04-13 5 141
PCT 2003-07-29 6 203
Assignment 2003-07-29 5 221
Prosecution-Amendment 2004-04-13 7 244
Prosecution-Amendment 2007-06-05 3 130