Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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LIPOPHILIC PERSONAL CARE COMPOSITION
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to lipophilic personal care compositions
comprising
a polyglycerin fatty acid ester, an N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester
of sterol, and
a dimer acid ester. The composition is particularly useful for making cosmetic
compositions such as lipstick, lipgloss, foundations, and creams.
BACKGROUND
Recently, the lipstick market has been segmented into those consumers who seek
wear benefit, moisturizing benefit, and balance of wear and moisturizing
benefits.
Lipsticks are primarily made of lipophilic or hydrophobic materials. Lipsticks
designed
for providing a moisturizing benefit to the lips have a tendency of further
containing polar
solvents, or other moisturizing components which are more or less hydrophilic.
The use
of association structures and gel structures has been suggested to bind such
polar solvents
in the lipophilic matrix of the lipstick, such as in PCT publication WO
02/26198. While
such lipstick compositions provide a favorable moisturizing benefit to the
lips, some
compositions were unsatisfactory in physical stability, and some others
required
uncommon equipment or extra processing steps.
Meanwhile, consumers who seek moisturizing benefit also have a tendency of
desiring ideal texture of the lips, namely soft, plumpy look texture. Such
texture
improvement may or may not be achieved only by use of polar solvents.
Cosmetic compositions utilizing N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester of
sterol are disclosed, for example, in Japanese publication A-7-258019. While
it is
disclosed that such composition provides non-sticky feel and high moisturizing
benefit,
further improvement is desired.
Based on the foregoing, there is a need for a lipophilic personal care
composition
which provides improved moisturization and improved texture of the skin, while
also
having good physical stability. There is also a need for a personal care
composition
which provides a fresh feel upon use. There is also a need for a personal care
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composition which can be manufactured by utilizing commonly used equipment and
processes.
SUMMARY
The present invention is directed to a lipophilic personal care composition
comprising by weight: (a) from about 5% to about 50% of a polyglycerin fatty
acid ester
having a polyglycerin of 2-15 units and at least 5 fatty acid residues
attached thereto,
wherein the fatty acid residue has 18 to 24 carbons; (b) from about 5% to
about 50% of
an N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester of sterol having formula (I):
XOC(O)-(CH2)n-CH(NHCOR)-C(O)OY (I)
wherein one of X and Y is an ester residue of sterol selected from the group
consisting of
phytosterol, cholesterol, lanosterol, stigmasterol, its hydrogenates, and its
derivatives, and
the other is selected from H, an alkyl or alkenyl of 8-30 carbons, and ester
residue of
monohydric solid alcohol of 12-38 carbons; COR is a long chain acyl group of 8-
22
carbons; and n is an integer of 1 or 2; and having a water holding capability
of at least
400%, and is liquid at 25 C; and (c) from about 5 % to about 50% of a dimer
acid ester.
The present invention is further directed to a lipophilic personal care
composition
which satisfies the need for improved texture of the skin, while also being
moisturizing
on the skin, provides a fresh feel upon use, and having good physical
stability.
These and other features, aspects, and advantages of the present invention
will
become evident to those skilled in the art from a reading of the present
disclosure with the
appended claims.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The following is a list of definitions for terms used herein.
"Comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients which do not affect
the
end result can be added. This term encompasses the terms "consisting of" and
"consisting essentially of".
All percentages are by weight of total composition unless specifically stated
otherwise.
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All cited references are incorporated herein by reference in their entireties.
Citation of any reference is not an admission regarding any determination as
to its
availability as prior art to the claimed invention.
All ratios are weight ratios unless specifically stated otherwise.
The present invention, in its product and process aspects, is described in
detail as
follows.
Polyglyicerin Fatty Acid Ester
The composition of the present invention comprises a polyglycerin fatty acid
ester
having a polyglycerin of 2-15 units and at least 5 fatty acid residues
attached thereto,
wherein the fatty acid residue has 18 to 24 carbons. The polyglycerin fatty
acid ester
useful herein is liquid at room temperature, has high water holding
capability, and is
compatible with many oily materials useful for making lipophilic personal care
compositions. It has been surprisingly found that, when the polyglycerin fatty
acid ester
is combined with N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester of sterol and dimer
acid ester,
a lipophilic composition having a fresh feel is obtained. Such a benefit is
unexpected, in
that all three such components have a high water holding capability, and may
have a
tendency to provide a sticky feel.
The polyglycerin fatty acid ester is comprised by weight of the entire
composition
at from about 5% to about 50%. In the particularly preferred lipstick
embodiment, the
polyglycerin fatty acid ester is comprised by weight of the entire composition
at from
about 5% to about 30%, preferably from about 10% to about 25%.
Polyglycerin fatty acid esters useful herein include esters made of
polyglyceryl-2,
polyglyceryl-4, polyglyceryl-6, or polyglyceryl-10; with at least 5
isostearate residues.
Commercially available polyglycerin fatty acid esters useful herein include
polyglyceryl-10 nonaisostearate with tradename S-FACE IS-1009P available from
Sakamoto Pharmaceuticals.
N-long Chain Acyl Acidic Amino Acid Ester or Diester of Sterol
The composition of the present invention comprises a N-long chain acyl acidic
amino acid ester of sterol having formula (I):
XOC(O)-(CH2)n-CH(NHCOR)-C(O)OY (I)
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wherein one of X and Y is an ester residue of sterol selected from the group
consisting of
phytosterol, cholesterol, lanosterol, stigmasterol, its hydrogenates, and its
derivatives, and
the other is selected from H, an alkyl or alkenyl of 8-30 carbons, and ester
residue of
monohydric solid alcohol of 12-38 carbons; COR is a long chain acyl group of 8-
22
carbons; and n is an integer of 1 or 2. The ester may be a monoester or
diester.
Preferably, the one of X and Y which is not the ester residue of sterol is
selected from 2-
octyldodecyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol,
benenyl alcohol, and
mixtures thereof. The N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester of sterol of
the present
invention has a water holding capability of at least 400%, and is liquid at 25
C. By
having such physical properties, it is believed that the N-long chain acyl
acidic amino
acid ester of sterol herein is effective in alleviating damaged skin,
compatible with many
oily materials useful for making lipophilic personal care compositions, and
provide a
favorable feel to the skin.
The N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester of sterol is comprised by weight
of
the entire composition at from about 5% to about 50%. In the particularly
preferred
lipstick embodiment, the N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester of sterol
is comprised
by weight of the entire composition at from about 5% to about 25%, preferably
from
about 10% to about 20%.
Commercially available N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid ester of sterol
useful
herein include: phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate with tradename
ELDEW PS-
203, and cholesteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate with tradename ELDEW CL-
202,
both available from Ajinomoto Ltd.
Dimer Acid Ester
The composition of the present invention comprises a dimer acid ester which
may
be a monoester or diester of dimer acid, wherein at least one group is
esterified with a
sterol selected from the group consisting of phytosterol, cholesterol,
lanosterol,
stigmasterol, its hydrogenates, and its derivatives. The dimer acid ester may
also be a
diester of dimer acid esterified with fatty alcohol. The remaining group or
both groups
may be esterified with a straight chain alcohol having 1-34 carbons, a
branched chain
alcohol having 3-34 carbons, or an unsaturated alcohol having 6-34 carbons.
The dimer
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acid ester of the present invention preferably has a water holding capability
of at least
240%, and is liquid at 25 C.
The dimer acid ester is comprised by weight of the entire composition at from
about 5% to about 50%. In the particularly preferred lipstick embodiment, the
dimer
acid ester may be comprised by weight of the entire composition at from about
5% to
about 25%, preferably from about 10% to about 20%.
Commercially available dimer acid esters include: phytosteryl isostearyl dimer
dilinoleate with tradename LUSPLAN PI-DA, dimer dilinoleyl hydrogenated
rosinate
with tradename LUSPLAN DD-DHR, and dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate: with
tradenames LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and LUSPLAN DD-DA7, all available from Nippon
Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
Lipophilic Composition
The composition of the present invention is made of single continuous
lipophilic
phase. The present composition may be anhydrous. While there could be a small
amount of water included in the composition, such water is within the amount
that could
be completely solubilized in the lipophilic components of the composition. For
example, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid
ester of sterol,
and dimer acid ester all have a certain water holding capability. The present
invention
excludes compositions that are emulsions.
The lipophilic personal care composition of the present invention may take
various consumer product forms, such as lipstick, lipgloss, foundation, skin
cream,
antiperspirant, hair treatment cream, ointment, and others. The present
composition is
particularly useful for making cosmetic compositions such as lipstick,
lipgloss,
foundations, and creams.
The composition of the present invention may contain further lipophilic
components for making the remainder of the composition. Such components can be
any
that are useful for personal care products, and which characterize the
product.
Nonlimiting examples of the other lipophilic components include low viscosity
vegetable
oils, other nonvolatile oils, and acryl alkyl silicone copolymers. For
providing the
preferred cosmetic compositions of the present invention, components such as
solid wax,
color powders, skin feel improving powders, skin benefit agents, UV absorbers,
and other
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components may be included. One highly preferred embodiment of the present
invention is lipstick. The present lipstick composition comprises solid wax
for
solidifying the composition, and color powders for providing color to the
lips.
In one aspect of the present invention, the lipophilic composition is
substantially
free of polar solvents. What is meant by polar solvents, are hydrophilic
liquid solvents
such as water, and monohydric and polyhydric alcohols. By providing the
composition
substantially free of polar solvents, the composition is also free from the
need of
providing special structures in the lipophilic continuous phase for carrying
the polar
solvent. Thus, the present composition substantially free of polar solvents
has good
physical stability. In the highly preferred lipstick embodiment, good physical
stability
means prevention of sweating and color stability. Moreover, the present
composition
substantially free of polar solvents has good moisturizing despite lack of
polar solvents.
In another aspect of the present invention, the lipophilic composition
comprises
polar solvents. The polar solvents may be used as solvent for dissolving water-
soluble
skin benefit agents to be incorporated in the lipophilic composition.
In yet another aspect of the present invention, the lipophilic composition is
substantially free of surfactants. Surfactants herein include emulsifiers. By
providing
the composition substantially free of surfactants, the composition has reduced
risk of
causing irritation to the skin or scalp.
By "substantially free" what is meant is that none of such component is
actively
included in the composition. However, the present invention does not exclude
the use
of components which may carry an insignificant amount of such component as an
impurity or byproduct of another component.
The lipophilic composition of the present invention may be suitably
manufactured
by utilizing commonly used equipment and processes known in the art. The
present
composition may be made by conveniently mixing the components in a tank with
heat
added as necessary for fluidizing solid components. Heat sensitive components
may be
added after the mixture is cooled.
Low Viscosity Vegetable Oil
The composition of the present invention may further comprise a low viscosity
vegetable oil having a viscosity of no more than about 300mPas, preferably no
more than
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about 200mPas. Low viscosity vegetable oils useful herein are any that are
extracted
from vegetable origin mainly comprising glyceride esters, and its hydrogenated
products.
Those having a relatively low viscosity are particularly useful herein for
providing the
desired fresh feel for the entire lipophilic composition. Non-limited examples
of low
viscosity vegetable oils useful herein are: sweet almond oil, rapeseed oil,
fennel oil, olive
oil, orange oil, canola oil, matricaria flower oil, cucumber oil, aleurites
moluccana seed
oil, cinnamon oil, corn oil, arctium lappa seed oil, sesame seed oil, rice
bran oil, rice germ
oil, camellia kissi seed oil, safflower seed oil, shea butter oil, job's tears
seed oil,
peppermint oil, soybean oil, tea seed oil, camellia japonica seed oil, rosa
canina fruit oil,
apricot kernel oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, hybrid safflower seed oil,
hybrid sunflower
oil, peanut oil, sunflower seed oil, grape seed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia
integrifolia nut
oil, meadowfoam seed oil, coconut oil, eucalyptus oil, eucalyptus clobulus
leaf oil,
rosemary leaf oil, evening primrose oil, its hydrogenated products, and
mixtures thereof.
Preferred for use herein are macadamia integrifolia nut oil, meadowfoam seed
oil, olive
oil, rosa canina fruit oil, sunflower seed oil, coconut oil, sweet almond oil,
shea butter oil,
and mixtures thereof.
In the particularly preferred lipstick embodiment, the low viscosity vegetable
oil
may be comprised by weight of the entire composition at from about 5% to about
20%,
preferably from about 10% to about 15%.
Commercially available low viscosity vegetable oil include macadamia
integrifolia nut oil with tradename FLORAMAC HAWAIIAN MACADAMIA available
from Floratech, meadowfoam seed oil with tradename CROPURE MDF available from
Croda, olive oil with tradename CROPURE OL available from Croda, jojoba oil
with
tradename Jojoba Oil available from Mitsuba Trading, and safflower seed oil
with
tradename Safflower Seed Oil available from NOF Corporation.
Other Non-Volatile Oil
The composition of the present invention may further comprise other non-
volatile
oils suitable for personal use. The non-volatile oil may be comprised by
weight of the
entire composition at from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 5% to
about
30%.
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Non-volatile oils useful herein are, for example, tridecyl isononanoate,
isostearyl
isostearate, isocetyl isosteatrate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl
isonoanoate, cetyl
octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, diisopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate,
isotridecyl
myristate, isopropyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate,
isodecyl palmitate,
isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, caprylic/capric acid triglyceride,
glyceryl tri-2-
ethylhexanoate, diglyceryl sebacate, neopentyl glycol di(2-ethyl hexanoate),
diisopropyl
dimerate, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, castor oil, turtle oil, mink oil,
eggyolk oil, castor
oil, glycerol trioctanate, glycerol triisopalmitate, polyglyceryl-2
triisostearate,
trimethylolpropane triisostearate, isopropyl myristate, glycerol tri-2-
ethylhexanoate,
pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, lanolin, liquid lanolin, liquid
paraffin, squalane,
vaseline, shea butter, and mixtures thereof. Commercially available oils
include, for
example, tridecyl isononanoate with tradename Crodamol TN available from
Croda,
Hexalan available from Nisshin Oil Mills, Ltd., tocopherol acetates available
from Eisai,
polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate with tradename COSMOL 43V available from Nisshin
Oil
Mills, Ltd., and shea butter with tradename CROPURE SB available from Croda.
Non-volatile oils useful herein also include polyalkyl or polyaryl siloxanes
with
the following structure (II)
R93 R93 R93
Z$ SI-O~SI-OSI-Z$
R93 R93 p R 93
\II)
wherein R93 is alkyl or aryl, and p is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000.
Z8
represents groups which block the ends of the silicone chains. The alkyl or
aryl groups
substituted on the siloxane chain (R93) or at the ends of the siloxane chains
Z8 can have
any structure as long as the resulting silicone remains fluid at room
temperature, is
dispersible, is neither irritating, toxic nor otherwise harmful when applied
to the skin, is
compatible with the other components of the composition, and is chemically
stable under
normal use and storage conditions. Suitable Z8 groups include hydroxy, methyl,
methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy, and aryloxy. The two R93 groups on the silicon atom
may
represent the same group or different groups. Preferably, the two R93 groups
represent
the same group. Suitable R93 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl,
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methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. The preferred silicone compounds are
polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, and polymethylphenylsiloxane.
Polydimethylsiloxane, which is also known by CTFA name dimethicone, is
especially
preferred. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the
General
Electric Company in their Viscasil and SF 96 series, and from Dow Coming in
their
Dow Corning 200 series.
Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids can also be used and include, for example,
polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes also known by CTFA name phenyl
trimethicone are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as
SF 1075
methyl phenyl fluid, from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid, or from
ShinEtsu
Silicone as Silicone Oil KF-56.
Non-volatile oils also useful herein are the various grades of mineral oils.
Mineral oils are liquid mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained from
petroleum.
Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbons include paraffin oil, mineral oil,
dodecane,
isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane,
tetradecane,
polybutene, polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.
Acryl Alkyl Silicone Copolymer
The composition of the present invention may further comprise an acryl alkyl
silicone copolymer having a melting point of no more than about 40 C. The
acryl alkyl
silicone copolymers useful herein include those that are graft copolymers of
an
(meth)acrylic main chain and siloxane side chains, wherein the (meth)acrylic
main chain
has attached to it an alkyl chain of 16-22 carbons. The acryl alkyl silicone
copolymer is
believed to provide smoothness to the composition.
The acryl alkyl silicone copolymer may be comprised by weight of the entire
composition at from about 0.5% to about 15%, preferably from about 1% to about
10%.
Commercially available acryl alkyl silicone copolymer include:
acrylates/stearyl
acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymer with tradename KP-561P available
from
ShinEtsu Silicone.
Solid Wax
The composition of the present invention may further comprise a solid wax. For
providing solid personal care compositions such as lipstick, solid foundations
and
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antiperspirant sticks, solid wax is typically included. The amount of the
solid wax is
controlled to provide the desired hardness and strength to the product. In the
particularly preferred lipstick embodiment, the solid wax is comprised by
weight of the
entire composition at from about 5% to about 20%, preferably from about 8% to
about
15%.
The solid waxes useful herein are paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax,
ozokerite
wax, ceresin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, eicosanyl behenate,
polyethylene wax,
and mixtures thereof. A mixture of waxes is preferably used.
Commercially available solid waxes useful herein include: Candelilla wax NC-
1630 available from Cerarica Noda Co., Ltd., Ozokerite Wax SP-1021 available
from
Strahl & Pitsh, eicosanyl behenate available from Cas Chemical,
microcrystalline wax
with tradename MULTIWAX 180-M Yellow available from Witco Chemical, and
polyethylene wax with tradename PERFORMALENE PL available from New Phase
Technology.
Color Powders
The composition of the present invention may further comprise color powders.
Herein, color powders include those which are white or nearly transparent. For
providing the preferred cosmetic compositions, the color powder component is
comprised
by weight of the entire composition at from about 1% to about 50%, preferably
from
about 2% to about 45%. The amount and type of powders are selected depending
on the
desired characteristic of the product, for example, shade, coverage, UV
protection benefit,
and various skin feel.
The materials useful herein are clay mineral powders such as talc, mica,
sericite,
silica, magnesium silicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, calcium silicate,
aluminum silicate,
bentonite and montomorillonite; pearl pigments such as alumina, barium
sulfate, calcium
secondary phosphate, calcium carbonate, titanium oxide, finely divided
titanium oxide,
zirconium oxide, zinc oxide, hydroxy apatite, iron oxide, iron titate,
ultramarine blue,
Prussian blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt oxide, cobalt
titanate,
titanium oxide coated mica; organic powders such as polyester, polyethylene,
polystyrene,
methyl metharylate resin, cellulose, 12-nylon, 6-nylon, styrene-acrylic acid
copolymers,
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poly proprylene, vinyl chloride polymer, tetrafluoroethylene polymer, boron
nitride, fish
scale guanine, laked tar color dyes, and laked natural color dyes.
A certain percentage of spherical powders can be used. In the preferred
foundation embodiments, the materials may be selected depending on the oil
absorbing
capability of the powders.
Hydrophobically treated powders can also be used. Such hydrophobically treated
powders are made by treating the base material, as above, with a hydrophobical
treatment
agent, including: silicone such as Methicone, Dimethicone and
perfluoroalkylsilane; fatty
material such as stearic acid; metal soap such as aluminium dimyristate;
aluminium
hydrogenated tallow glutamate, hydrogenated lecithin, lauroyl lysine,
aluminium salt of
perfluoroalkyl phosphate, and mixtures thereof.
Polar Solvent
In certain embodiments, the composition of the present invention may further
comprise a polar solvent. The polar solvent provides moisturizing benefit to
the skin.
The polar solvent also serves as solvent for incorporating water-soluble skin
benefit
agents which otherwise would not be compatible in the lipophilic carrier base.
For providing cosmetic compositions, when included, the polar solvent is
comprised by weight of the entire composition at from about 0.01% to about
10%,
preferably from about 1% to about 8%.
Polar solvents useful herein include water, polyhydric alcohols such as
glycerin,
1,3-butylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propane diol, ethylene
glycol,
diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin, sorbitol, and other sugars
which are in
liquid form at ambient temperature. Also useful herein are water soluble
alkoxylated
nonionic polymers such as polyethylene glycol.
Commercially available polar solvents herein include: glycerin available from
Asahi Denka; propylene glycol with tradename LEXOL PG-865/855 available from
Inolex, 1,2-PROPYLENE GLYCOL USP available from BASF; 1,3-butylene glycol
available from Daisel Kagaku Kogyo; dipropylene glycol with the same tradename
available from BASF; diglycerin with tradename DIGLYCEROL available from
Solvay
GmbH.
Water-Soluble Skin Benefit Agent
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The composition of the present invention may further comprise a water-soluble
skin benefit agent in an amount soluble in the polar solvent above, preferably
from about
0.1 % to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%.
Water-soluble skin benefit agents useful herein include niacinamide,
panthenol,
bacterial cultured mediums, allantoin, sodium lactate, PCA soda, amino acids,
urea,
sodium hyaluronate, chondroitin sulfate, collagen, elastin, pectin,
carageenan, sodium
alginate, trehalose, tuberose saccharide, chitin derivatives, chitosan
derivatives, and
mixtures thereof.
Commercially available water soluble skin benefit agents include niacinamide
and
panthenol by Roche, sodium hyaluronate with tradenames ACTIMOIST available
from
Active Organics, AVIAN SODIUM HYALURONATE series available from Intergen,
and HYALURONIC ACID Na available from Ichimaru Pharcos.
Additional Components
The composition of the present invention may include other additional
components, which may be selected by the artisan according to the desired
characteristics
of the final product and which are suitable for rendering the composition more
cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or to provide them with additional
usage benefits.
Such additional components generally are used individually at levels of no
more than
about 5% by weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention may further contain a nonvolatile
dispersed silicone usually referred to as silicone gum. The term "silicone
gum", as used
herein, means a polyorganosiloxane material having a viscosity at 25 C of
greater than or
equal to 1,000,000 mPa=s. Silicone gums are believed to provide wearability
improvement such as long-lasting effect. The "silicone gums" will typically
have a mass
molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, generally between about 200,000
and about
1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane,
poly(dimethylsiloxane
methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane
methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer and mixtures thereof. Commercially available
silicone
gums are described in General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets as
SE 30, SE
33, SE 54 and SE 76.
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The composition of the present invention may further contain a silicone resin,
which are highly crosslinked polymeric siloxane systems. Silicone resins are
believed to
enhance spreadability and improve the feel to the skin. The crosslinking is
introduced
through the incorporation of tri-functional and tetra-functional silanes with
mono-
functional or di-functional, or both, silanes during manufacture of the
silicone resin. As
is well understood in the art, the degree of crosslinking that is required in
order to result
in a silicone resin will vary according to the specific silane units
incorporated into the
silicone resin. In general, silicone materials which have a sufficient level
of
trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and hence, a
sufficient level of
crosslinking, such that they dry down to a rigid, or hard, film are considered
to be silicone
resins. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms is indicative of the level
of
crosslinking in a particular silicone material. Silicone materials which have
at least
about 1.1 oxygen atoms per silicon atom will generally be silicone resins
herein.
Preferably, the ratio of oxygen:silicon atoms is at least about 1.2:1Ø
Silanes used in the
manufacture of silicone resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-,
monophenyl-,
diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinylchlorosilanes, and
tetrachlorosilane, with the methyl substituted silanes being most commonly
utilized.
Preferred are crosslinked silicone powders with tradenames Trefil E-505C,
Trefil E-
506C, and 9506 Powder; suspensions of silicone elastomer powders with
tradenames
BY29-119 and BY29-122; and silicone compound emulsions with tradenames SH5500,
SC5570, and SM 5571; all available from Dow Coming.
Other useful silicone resins are silicone resin powders such as the material
given
the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequioxane, which is commercially available
as
TospearlTm from Toshiba Silicones.
Silicone materials and silicone resins in particular, can conveniently be
identified
according to a shorthand nomenclature system well known to those skilled in
the art as
the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this system, the silicone is described
according to
the presence of various siloxane monomer units which make up the silicone.
Briefly,
the symbol M denotes the mono-functional unit (CH3)3SiOo.5; D denotes the
difunctional
unit (CH3)ZSiO; T denotes the trifunctional unit (CH3)SiO1.5; and Q denotes
the quadri- or
tetra-functional unit Si02. Primes of the unit symbols, e.g., M', D', T', and
Q' denote
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substituents other than methyl, and must be specifically defined for each
occurrence.
Typical alternate substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino,
hydroxyl, etc.
The molar ratios of the various units, either in terms of subscripts to the
symbols
indicating the total number of each type of unit in the silicone, or an
average thereof, or as
specifically indicated ratios in combination with molecular weight, complete
the
description of the silicone material under the MDTQ system. Higher relative
molar
amounts of T, Q, T' and/or Q' to D, D', M and/or or M' in a silicone resin is
indicative of
higher levels of crosslinking. As discussed before, however, the overall level
of
crosslinking can also be indicated by the oxygen to silicon ratio.
The silicone resins for use herein which are preferred are MQ, MT, MTQ, MQ
and MDTQ resins. Thus, the preferred silicone substituent is methyl.
Especially
preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about
1.5:1.0 and
the average molecular weight of the resin is from about 1000 to about 10,000.
Commercially available MQ resins are, for example, trimethyl siloxy silicate
with
tradename BY11-018 available from Dow Coming.
The composition of the present invention may further contain a water-soluble
polymer. It is believed that water-soluble polymers provide long-lasting
effect. Useful
water-soluble polymers include sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, polyvinyl
pyrrolidone,
polyvinyl alcohol, xanthan gum, agar, pulleran, bentonite, and mixtures
thereof.
Commercially available water-soluble polymers include the Carbopol series
available
from B. F. Goodrich Company, and PVP K-30 available from G.A.F. Chemicals.
The composition of the present invention may further contain an oil swelling
clay
material which functions as a thickener for the composition. Oil swelling clay
materials
useful herein include hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite, and bentone clays
which have
been modified to be compatible with oil. Preferably, the modification is
quatemization
with an ammonium compound. Preferable oil swelling clay materials include
quaternary
ammonium modified hectorite. Commercially available oil swelling clay
materials
include benzyldimethyl stearyl ammonium hectorite with tradename Bentone 38 CG
OR
available from Rheox. Inc.
Other components which can be formulated into the compositions of the present
invention are; emollient mixtures by the tradename MAXI-LIP containing octyl
palmitate,
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tribehenin, sorbitan isostearate and palmitoyl oligopeptide available from
Sederma,
preservatives such as benzyl alcohol, methyl paraben, propyl paraben,
imidazolidinyl
area, and EDTA and its salts, perfumes, ultraviolet and infrared screening and
absorbing
agents such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, and others.
EXAMPLES
The following examples further describe and demonstrate the preferred
embodiments within the scope of the present invention. The examples are given
solely
for the purpose of illustration, and are not to be construed as limitations of
the present
invention since many variations thereof are possible without departing from
its spirit and
scope.
EXAMPLES 1-5
The following cosmetic compositions are formed by the following components
using the method of preparation described herein:
No Component Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5
1 Shea Butter * 1 5 5 5 10 3
2 Acrylates/ Stearyl Acrylate/ 2 2 2 5
Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer
*2
3 Emollient mixture of Octyl Palmitate, 0.5 0.5 0.5 1
Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate and
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide *3
4 Phenyl Trimethicone *4 10 10 10 20 10
5 Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl 12.5 12.5 12.5 10
Glutamate *5
6 Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl 15
Glutamate *6
7 Phytosteryl Isostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate 15 5
*7
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8 Dimer Dilinoleyl Hydrogenated 15
Rosinate *8
9 Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate *9 15
Macadamia Integrifolia Nut Oil *10 5 5 5 5 5
11 Limnathes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed 5 5 5 5 5
Oil *11
12 Ozokerite Wax * 12 2 2 2 2 1
13 Microcrystalline Wax * 13 2 2 2 2 1
14 Candelilla Wax *14 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Polyethylene Wax * 15 5.5 5.5 5.5 5.5 5
16 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate * 16 7.5 7.5 7.5 8.5 4.5
17 Polyglyceryl-10 Nonaisostearate *17 17 17 17 20 10
18 Preservatives 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
19 Powder Pigments 10 10 10 40
Definitions of Components
* 1 Shea Butter: CROPURE SB available from Croda
*2 Acrylates/ Stearyl Acrylate/ Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer: KP-561P
available from ShinEtsu Silicone
*3 Emollient mixture of Octyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate and
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide: MAXI-LIP available from Sederma
*4 Phenyl Trimethicone: Silicone Oil KF-56 available from ShinEtsu Silicone
*5 Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate: ELDEW PS-203 available from
Ajinomoto Ltd.
*6 Cholesteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate: ELDEW CL202 available from
Ajinomoto Ltd.
*7 Phytosterol Isostearyl Dimer Dilinoleate: LUSPLAN PI-DA available from
Nippon Fine Chemical.
*8 Dimer Dilinoleyl Hydrogenated Rosinate: LUSPLAN DD-DHR available from
Nippon Fine Chemical.
*9 Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate: LUSPLAN DD-DA5 or LUSPLAN DD-DA7
available from Nippon Fine Chemical.
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*10 Macadamia Integrifolia Nut Oil: FLORAMAC HAWAIIAN MACADAMIA
available from FLORATECH
* 11 Limnathes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil: CROPURE MDF available from Croda.
*12 Ozokerite Wax: Ozokerite Wax SP-1021 available from Strahl & Pitsh
*13 Microcrystalline Wax: MULTIWAX 180-M Yellow available from Witco
Chemical
*14 Candelilla Wax: Candelilla Wax NC-1630 available from Cerarica Noda Co.,
Ltd.
*15 Polyethylene Wax: PERFORMALENE PL available from New Phase Technology
*16 Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate: COSMOL 43V available from Nisshin Oil
Mills,
Ltd.
*17 Polyglyceryl-10 Nonaisostearate: S-FACE IS-1009P available from Sakamoto
Pharmaceuticals.
Method of Preparation
The cosmetic compositions of Examples 1- 5 are suitably prepared as follows:
First, a mixture of component numbers 1 through 18 are heated to disperse
using a
Propeller Mixer at 95 C in a sealed tank. After all components are melted,
cool the
mixture to 85 C. After that, component number 19 is added, and the mixture is
dispersed
at 85 C. Finally, the dispersion is filled in an air-tight container and
allowed to cool to
room temperature.
Examples 1 through 3 provide lipsticks, Example 4 provides lipgloss, and
Example 5 provides foundation. These embodiments represented by the previous
examples have many advantages. For example, the cosmetic compositions provide
improved texture of the lips or skin, while also being moisturizing on the
lips or skin,
provides fresh feel upon use, and have good physical stability.
All documents cited in the Detailed Description of the Invention are, in
relevant
part, incorporated herein by reference; the citation of any document is not to
be construed
as an admission that it is prior art with respect to the present invention. To
the extent
that any meaning or definition of a term in this written document conflicts
with any
meaning or definition of the term in a document incorporated by reference, the
meaning or
definition assigned to the term in this written document shall govern.
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While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated
and
described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other
changes and
modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the
invention.
It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and
modifications that are within the scope of this invention.
