Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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TWO-COAT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS
CROSS-REFERENCE TO PRIOR APPLICATION
This application claims priority to U.S. provisional application USSN
60/755,674 filed December 30, 2005.
FIELD OF INVENTION
The present invention relates generally to compositions and methods
for improving the appearance of skin. More particularly, the present invention
relates
to cosmetic compositions which are uniform, long-lasting, transfer-resistant,
non-
migrating, and comfortable to wear, and which are capable of filling in fine
lines and
wrinkles to yield a flawless appearance of the skin.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
There has been increasing interest in formulating a variety of cosmetic
products that camouflage fine lines and wrinkles by filling them in without
excessive
buildup, in order to provide an aesthetically appealing, or flawless
appearance, that
at the same time are transfer-resistant (or non-transferable), long-lasting,
and
comfortable to wear. To date, the majority of cosmetics have been unable to
meet
all of these design criteria. Traditional efforts to formulate such cosmetics
have
focused on the use of silicone resins and volatile silicone oils which have
improved
properties regarding longer wear, but which have the drawback of leaving an
uncomfortable film on the skin or lips.
Currently available cosmetic compositions that are applied to the skin
or lips, including, for example, foundations and Iipsticks have a tendency to
migrate
from the surface to which they are applied. Migration refers to the running of
the
composition, and in particular, of the color, beyond the initial line of where
the
composition was applied. Migration of such cosmetics, such as when applied to
the
skin, may lead to an unpleasant appearance around the lips and the eyes, which
particularly makes wrinkles and fine lines more prominent. This migration is
often
mentioned by consumers as being a major defect of, for example, conventional
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lipsticks, foundations, concealer products and eye make-ups. In addition,
these
compositions generally are not long-lasting, leading to modifications of the
color
which generally follow an interaction with the sebum and sweat secreted by the
skin,
or with saliva on the lips. The resulting smearing or migration leads to an
uneven
coating and uneven color, requiring the user to reapply the cosmetic
frequently.
Generally, cosmetic compositions seeking to have the advantageous
properties of being transfer-resistant and long-lasting have employed a single
emulsion coat. Typical examples of such cosmetic compositions include the
following U.S. patents:
U.S. Pat. No. 5,876,736 provides emulsified, pigmented cosmetic
compositions, preferably as oil-in-water emulsions to tighten the skin and
reduce the
appearance of fine lines. The compositions comprise film-forming agents
comprising
plant polysaccharides and hydrolyzed casein.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,560,917 discloses emulsified, pigmented compositions
that are preferably water-in-oil emulsions for smoothing and protecting skin.
U.S. Pat. No. 4,119,712 provides dry cosmetic compositions
comprising a mixture of hydrophobic fumed silica and hydrophilic fumed silica
to
increase adhesion, color stability, and length of wear.
U.S. Pat. No. 6,083,516 discloses pigmented, cosmetic compositions
comprising styrene-ethylene, propylene block copolymers which are not water
soluble but are suitable for use in water-based and anhydrous systems.
Some prior art compounds attempt to provide smooth, durable films for
cosmetic use by employing two-step formulations involving a base coat and a
top
coat, such formulations typically employing an emulsion base coat. Such
cosmetics
are disclosed in, for example, U.S. Pat. No. 6,811,770. However, in practice,
the use
of emulsion base coats has been found to be undesirable, as it leads to
smearing of
the top coat and base coat, reducing the appearance of smoothness.
Therefore, despite advances in film-forming methods and
compositions, there is currently a need for cosmetic products that camouflage
and fill
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in fine lines and wrinkles without excessive buildup, in order to provide an
aesthetically appealing or flawless appearance, and that are also long-
lasting, non-
transferable, non-migrating, and comfortable for consumers over long periods
of
wear time. Although many approaches have been used in the art, presently,
cosmetic products on the market consistently fail to provide products that
satisfy the
above-mentioned criteria.
It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide cosmetic
compositions that fill in fine lines and wrinkles on skin (including the
lips), thereby
camouflaging their appearance resulting in a flawless look, and that are long-
lasting,
non-transferable, non-migrating, and comfortable, which can be applied to
biological
surfaces.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Surprisingly, it has been found that inventive two-coat compositions,
which comprise a hydrophilic base coat composition and a top coat composition,
form a cosmetic film on a biological surface that exhibits superior properties
compared to compositions of the prior art. Specifically, the inventive two-
coat
composition has the ability to fill in fine lines and wrinkles, yielding a
flawless
appearance of, for example, the skin. These two-coat compositions of the
invention
also have the advantage of being transfer-resistant and migration-resistant,
and are
also uniform in color, long lasting, and comfortable to the wearer.
One aspect of the invention provides methods for forming cosmetic
films on a biological surface. The biological surface may be any surface to
which
cosmetics or personal care products are typically applied, including without
limitation
skin, lips, keratin fibers, nails and the like. Generally, the method
comprises
applying a base coat composition to a biological surface to form a base coat.
The
base coat composition comprises at least one water-soluble film former that is
capable of forming a hydrophilic film on the biological surface. The method
also
comprises applying a top coat composition on the base coat to form a top coat
which
may be applied over all or part of the base coat. The base coat and top coat
form a
hydrophobic cosmetic film on the biological surface. The resulting cosmetic
film is
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water-resistant, oil-resistant, migration-resistant, smooth, durable, and
capable of
filling in fine lines and wrinkles, yielding a flawless appearance of skin.
Another aspect of the invention provides methods for entrapping a
functional agent within a cosmetic film on a biological surface. The
functional agent
may be any agent which is desired to be held in intimate contact with the
surface,
including without limitation pigments, pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals and the
like.
The method comprises applying a base coat composition to the biological
surface to
form a base coat, and applying a top coat composition on the base coat to form
a top
coat. The base coat and the top coat form a hydrophobic cosmetic film on the
biological surface, and a functional agent is entrapped within the cosmetic
film.
An additional aspect of the invention provides two-coat compositions
that comprise a base coat composition having at least one water-soluble film
former
capable of forming a hydrophilic film on a biological surface, and a top coat
composition having at least one film former. In yet another embodiment of the
invention, the two-coat composition is a cosmetic or personal care product.
Yes it is
in this case to allow for the top coat to exhibit dimensional stability.
A further embodiment of the invention relates to two-coat compositions
in which the base coat composition of the two-coat composition is not an
emulsion.
In another embodiment of the invention, the base coat composition of
the two-coat composition further comprises one or more coloring agents.
In another embodiment of the invention, the top coat composition of the
two-coat cosmetic composition further comprises one or more coloring agents.
Yet another embodiment relates to a foundation or concealer which
utilizes the inventive two-coat composition for concealing, camouflaging, or
hiding
fine lines or wrinkles on the skin upon application of the foundation or
concealer,
yielding a flawless appearance of the skin. These and other aspects of the
invention
will be better understood by reference to the following detailed description
and
appended claims.
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DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
In the following description of the invention and the claims appended
hereto, it is to be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and
accustomed meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified. All concentration
are
by weight percent on an active basis unless otherwise indicated.
Generally, the present invention provides two-coat compositions or
cosmetic products that may deliver uniform color to the skin, nails, or
keratin fibers.
The inventive two-coat compositions generally comprise a base coat composition
having at least one water-soluble film former capable of forming a hydrophilic
film on
a biological surface and a top coat composition. Typically, the top coat
composition
contains at least one film former.
One embodiment of the invention is a two-coat cosmetic composition
comprising a base coat composition comprising at least one water-soluble film
former capable of forming a hydrophilic film on a biological surface, and a
top coat
composition comprising a hydrophobic emulsion and preferably including at
least
one hydrophobic film former. The two-coat composition may further comprise one
or
more coloring agents.
Another embodiment of the invention is a two-coat cosmetic
composition comprising a base coat composition comprising at least one water-
soluble film former capable of forming a hydrophilic film on a biological
surface, and
an anhydrous top coat composition preferably including a hydrophobic film
former.
The present invention also provides methods for forming a cosmetic
film on a biological surface comprising applying a base coat composition to a
biological surface to form a base coat. The base coat composition comprises at
least one water-soluble film former that is capable of forming a hydrophilic
film on the
biological surface. The base coat may be permitted to dry in whole or in part.
The
method also comprises applying a top coat composition on the base coat to form
a
top coat which may be applied over all or part of the base coat. The base coat
and
top coat form a hydrophobic cosmetic film on the biological surface. By
'cosmetic
film' is meant the composite film of the product obtained by the sequential
application
of the base coat composition and the top coat composition.
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The inventive resulting cosmetic films have the advantage of being
durable (i.e., long-lasting), transfer-resistant, oil resistant, water-
resistant, non-
migrating, and comfortable to the wearer, as well as being able to fill in
fine lines and
wrinkles where the two-coat compositions are in the form of foundations,
concealers,
or lip cosmetics.
Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that
the benefits of the present invention arise by virtue of limited compatibility
between
the hydrophilic base coat and the top coat, enabling hydrogen bonding with the
OH
groups of the base coat, which provides increased adhesion of the top coat to
the
base coat. The inventive cosmetic films provide heretofore unachievable levels
of
transfer resistance, migration resistance, smoothness, and comfort in
cosmetics,
while filling in lines and wrinkles to approach a flawless appearance in the
case of a
cosmetic foundation, and also for personal care products.
The resulting cosmetic film acts as a moisture barrier, thereby
decreasing moisture sensitivity. The two-coat compositions of the invention
and the
formed cosmetic films of the invention are particularly superior to
commercially-
available products that utilize an emulsion, or hydrophobic base coat in terms
of the
above-described performance factors.
Where the product is a two-coat cosmetic foundation or concealer,
without wishing to be bound by theory, the base coat and/or top coat fills in
fine lines
and wrinkles of the skin, and blurs imperfections, adding a first degree of
smoothness while the top coat provides further coverage of the base coat,
yielding a
smooth, even, substantially flawless appearance or finish on the skin. The top
coat
enhances the smoothness by providing an even coverage of the base coat.
"Flawlessness" refers to consumer perception of wrinkle reduction, age spots,
imperfections in the skin, and discoloration on the skin. Smoothness is also a
factor
that contributes to the flawless finish on the skin. By "flawless" is meant
skin that
appears natural-looking skin, i.e., essentially no caking off of the composite
cosmetic
film.
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Base Coat Composition
Water-soluble film-forming polymers are contemplated to be useful in
the base coat composition of some embodiments of the invention.
Water-soluble film formers useful in the practice of the invention can be
based on several types of systems, including but not limited to PVP,
acrylates, and
urethanes; synthetic polymers of the polycondensate type or free-radical type,
or
ionic type, polymers of natural origin and mixtures thereof or any other film
former
known within the practice of the cosmetic and pharmaceutical arts which one
skilled
in the art may determine to be compatible with the compositions of the
invention.
Specific examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers suitable for use in
the
invention include those disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 6,939,536 (Chen et al.),
the
contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
More specifically, the water-soluble film former may be chosen from,
for example, vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate (PVPNA) copolymers such as the
Luviskol0 VA grades (all ranges) from BASFO Corporation and the PVPNA series
from ISP; acrylic fluorinated emulsion film formers including Foraperle0 film
formers
such as Foraperle0 303 D from Elf Atochem; GANE?C copolymers such as
butylated PVP; Poly(vinylpyrrolidone/diethylaminoethyl methacrylate) or
PVP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymers such as Copolymer 845; Resin
ACO-5014 (Imidized IB/MA copolymer); other PVP based polymers and copolymers;
alkyl cycloalkylacrylate copolymers (See WO 98/42298, the disclosure of which
is
hereby incorporated by reference); Mexomere film formers and other allyl
stearate/vinyl acetate copolymers (allyl stearateNA copolymers);
polyolprepolymers
such as PPG-12/SMDI copolymer, Poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), a-hydro-w-hydroxy-
polymer with 1,1'-methylene-bis-(4-isocyanatocyclohexane) available from
Barnet;
AvalureT " AC Polymers (Acrylates Copolymer) and AvalureTM UR polymers
(Polyurethane Dispersions), available from BFGoodrich.
Other non-limiting useful water-soluble film formers according to one
embodiment of the invention include cellulosic polymers such as, for example,
hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose,
hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose, and ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose; keratin
derivatives
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such as, for example, keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; anionic
chitins,
cationic chitins, amphoteric chitins, nonionic chitins and chitosan
derivatives, such as
hydroxypropyl chitosan; cellulose derivatives and quaternized derivatives of
cellulose; acrylic polymers and acrylic copolymers including, for example,
polyacrylates and polymethacrylates; polyvinyl alcohols (PVA) and
polyvinylpyrrolidones (PVP); vinyl copolymers such as copolymers of methyl
vinyl
ether and malic anhydride, and copolymers of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid;
polyethylene glycols (PEG); and modified polymers of natural origin including
from:
gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan. derivatives, karaya gum; alginates,
carrageenans,
glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, hyaluronic acid derivatives, shellac
resin,
sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, and deoxyribonucleic acid.
Preferred water-soluble film formers according to one embodiment of
the invention include polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyvinyl alcohols,
polyurethanes,
polyethylene glycols and PVA-PEG copolymers.
In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the base coat
composition comprises Kollicoat Protect which is commercially available from
BASF and comprises between about 55% and about 65% alcohol-polyethylene
glycol graft copolymers, between about 35% and 45% polyvinyl aicohol, and
between about 0.1 % and about 0.3% silicon dioxide.
In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the base coat
composition comprises Kollicoat IR, commercially available from BASF, which
comprises about 75% polyvinyl alcohol, about 25% polyethylene glycol, and
about
0.3% silica.
In further embodiments of the invention, the base coat composition
may comprise combinations of various water-soluble film formers, such as, for
example, combinations comprising Kollicoat Protect and Kollicoat IR.
The concentration of the film former may be determined by one of skill
in the art and can vary considerably based on the application. For example,
for
some cosmetic compositions of the invention, film formers may be used in an
amount from 0.1 %a to 99.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the
composition.
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Preferably, film formers in the invention are used in an amount from
1.0% to 40.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, film formers in the invention are used in an amount
from about 3% to 30%, preferably 3% to about 25%, most preferably from about
5%
to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Top Coat Composition
Top coat compositions useful in the cosmetic compositions of the invention
comprise
at least one film forming polymer. The top coat composition is capable of
forming a
film that is hydrophobic. Useful top coat compositions in some embodiments of
the
invention may comprise a cosmetically acceptable emulsion. However, anhydrous
top coat compositions are preferred. In some embodiments of the invention,
coloring
agents are dispersed in the top coat emulsion. In one embodiment of an
anhydrous
top coat composition, the top coat contains polyvinyl stearyl ether sold as
Giovarez
1800 (MW 3000 - 4000) by Phoenix Chemical, a 100% active, water insoluble,
waxy, non-ionic resin that forms a continuous, glossy, somewhat soft film when
cast
from a molten state.
An emulsion is a mixture of two immiscible liquids in which droplets of
one liquid (the discontinuous or internal phase) are dispersed throughout the
other
liquid (the continuous or external phase). Emulsions may behave and appear as
substantially homogenous fluids. The products of the present invention
comprise a
cosmetically acceptable vehicle in the form of an emulsion, including but not
limited
to, water-in-oil, oil-in-oil, polyol-in-oil emulsions. A water-in-oil emulsion
is a mixture
where water droplets form the discontinuous phase which is dispersed in a
continuous oily phase. Conversely, an oil-in-water emulsion is a mixture where
water-insoluble droplets are dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase
Other emulsions such as water-in-silicone, silicone-in-water, and
silicone-in-oil emulsions are also contemplated to be useful in the practice
of the
invention.
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Multiple phase emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water emulsions are
also contemplated to be useful according to the invention. These emulsions
comprise droplets of an emulsion dispersed in another emulsion. For example, a
water-in-oil-in-water emulsion comprises a continuous water phase containing
dispersed oil droplets which is itself dispersed in a continuous oil phase.
Double
emulsions and multiple emulsions are also contemplated to be useful in the
practice
of the invention.
Where the top coat composition of the two-coat composition comprises
an emulsion, it is preferred that the top coat composition of the two-coat
composition
comprises a water-in-oil emulsion. The aqueous phase preferably comprises
demineralized water. The other water soluble or water dispersible components
of
the composition would also be incorporated into the aqueous phase. The oil
phase
may be any oil conventionally used in cosmetic formulations. Exemplary oils
include,
but are not limited to fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon oils, natural or synthetic
triglycerides, waxes and wax-like materials, esters of long-chain acids and
alcohols,
silicone oils, fatty acid esters, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, and
combinations
thereof. Specific examples of oils suitable for use in the invention include
those
disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 6,521,217 (Luther et al.) and 5,876,736 (Cohen et
al.),
the contents of which are hereby incorporated by reference.
Any emulsifier may be used with the present invention. Suitable
emulsifiers include ethoxylated esters of a natural oil derivative such as
polyethoxylated esters of hydrogenated castor oil, silicone oil emulsifiers
such as
silicone polyols, soaps such as, for example, fatty acid soaps and ethoxylated
fatty
acid soaps, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally ethoxylated sorbitan
esters,
ethoxylated fatty acids, and ethoxylated glycerides. Specific examples of
suitable
emulsifiers are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 6,290,936 (Ross), the contents of
which
are hereby incorporated by reference.
Where the invention comprises an emulsifier, it is preferred that the
emulsifiers are solid at room temperature, including, but not limited to
emulsifiers
such as behenyl alcohol, Steareth-2, PEG-40 stearate, and glyceryl stearate.
The
emulsions may further comprise any of the thickeners well known in the art. A
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preferred thickener for use in the emulsions of the present invention is the
carbomer
available as Carbopol0 940 (Noveon, OH).
When formulated as an oil-in-water emulsion, the cosmetically
acceptable vehicle preferably comprises 5 to 50 % of an oil phase and 30 to 90
% of
water, each by weight based on the total weight of the emulsion, with the
remainder
optionally comprising an emulsifier.
Film formers that are contemplated to be useful in the top coat
composition of the invention are preferably hydrophobic, and can be silicones,
fatty
acid esters, aliphatic andior oligomeric, and mixtures thereof. The film
formers
include, but are not limited to, polyethylene film formers, silicone acrylate,
and
hydrogenated cyclopentadiene.
In one preferred embodiment of the invention, the top coat composition
comprises polyvinyl stearyl ether, which is commercially available from
Phoenix
Chemical, Inc. as Giovarez 1800.
Properties
In a further embodiment of the invention, various elements may be
used in either the top coat composition or the base coat composition.
For example, the film-forming polymers used according to the invention
have a glass transition temperature (Tg) in a range which causes a soft and
elastic
film to be produced. Glass transition temperatures are the point at which the
polymer or fragment thereof moves from a solid brittle state into a rubbery
liquid
state. As will be understood by one skilled in the art, the Tg of various
polymers may
be determined through testing and by referring to the glass transition points
which
are described in commonly known and used references (see, Polymer Handbook,
Eds. J. Brandrup, et al., 2 Volumes Set, Fourth Edition, John Wiley and Sons,
Inc.,
June 2003; Introduction to Polymer Science and Technology, Eds. H.S. Kaufman
and J.J. Falcetta, John Wiley and Sons, Inc., 1977) in order to understand
this
concept and to identify particular combinations of polymers which would be
useful in
the invention.
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The Tg of the materials useful in both the base coat composition and
the top coat composition is typically between about -30 C and about 175 C, and
preferably between about 0 C and about 75 C.
Preferably, the molecular weight of the materials useful in both the
base coat composition and the top coat composition is between about 10
Kdaltons
and about 1200 Kdaltons.
The degree of adhesion between the two coats is greater when the
surface energies of the two coats are compatible. It is preferred that the
surface
energies of both the base coat and the top coat are between about 18 and 75
dynes/cm as measured by a peel adhesion test (described in Example 5).
Typical refractive indices of both the base coat composition and the top
coat composition are between about 1.3 and about 2.8. It is preferred that the
refractive indices of both the base coat composition and the top coat
composition are
between about 1.4 and about 2_1.
Other Materials
Other ingredients may be present in either the base coat composition,
the top coat composition, or in both coat compositions. These ingredients
include,
but not limited to functional agents such as pigments, lakes, dyes,
opacifiers,
pearling agents, insect repellants, UV absorbers, UV blockers,
antiperspirants, anti-
acne agents, moisturizers, conditioners, and tooth whiteners, as well as
coloring
agents, fillers, preservatives, soft focus materials, tightening agents;
solvents,
carriers, vehicles, and the like.
In some embodiments of the invention, the base coat composition of
the cosmetic product further comprises one or more coloring agents.
In some embodiments of the invention, the top coat composition of the
cosmetic product further comprises one or more coloring agents.
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In further embodiments of the invention, both the base coat
composition and the top coat composition of the cosmetic product do not
comprise
coloring agents.
Coloring agents may be added where the product is a cosmetic or
personal care product, including, for example, lipstick, lip gloss, nail
enamel,
foundation, and the like. One or more coloring agents may be added to the base
coat, the top coat, or to both coats. It is within the skill in the art to
choose coloring
agents and combinations of coloring agents to produce a desired color.
Suitable
coloring agents, including pigments, lakes, and dyes, are well known in the
art and
are disclosed in the C.T.F.A. International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and
Handbook, Tenth Edition, 2004, the contents or which are hereby incorporated
by
reference. Organic pigments include, for example, FD&C dyes, D&C dyes,
including
D&C Red, Nos. 2, 5, C, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 30 and 34, D&C Yellow No. 5, Blue
No. 1,
Violet No. 2. Exemplary inorganic pigments include, but are not limited to,
metal
oxides and metal hydroxides such as magnesium oxide, magnesium hydroxide,
calcium oxide, calcium hydroxides, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, iron
oxides
(a-Fe203, y-Fe203, Fe304, FeO), red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron
oxide,
iron hydroxides, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides, zirconium oxides,
chromium
oxides, chromium hydroxides, manganese oxides, cobalt oxides, cerium oxides,
nickel oxides and zinc oxides and composite oxides and composite hydroxides
such
as iron titanate, cobalt titanate and cobalt aluminate. Other suitable
coloring agents
include ultramarine blue (i.e., sodium aluminum silicate containing sulfur),
Prussian
blue, manganese violet, talc, mica, sericite, carbon black, magnesium
carbonate,
calcium carbonate, magnesium silicate, aluminum magnesium silicate, silica,
titanated mica, iron oxide titanated mica, bismuth oxychloride, and the like.
The
coloring agents may be surface modified, with, for example, fluoropolymers, to
adjust
one or more characteristics of the coloring agent as described in, for
example, U.S.
Patent Nos. 6,471,950, 5,482,547, and 4,832,944, the contents of which are
hereby
incorporated by reference. Fluoropolymers may be incorporated into the present
invention as a coating on pigment particles that at least partially covers the
surface
of the pigment particles. Suitable pearling pigments include without
limitation
bismuth oxychloride, guanine and titanium composite materials containing, as a
titanium component, titanium dioxide, titanium lower oxides or titanium
oxynitride, as
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disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,340,569, the contents of which are hereby
incorporated by reference.
The compositions of the invention may optionally comprise other active
and inactive ingredients, including, but not limited to, excipients, fillers,
emulsifying
agents, antioxidants, surfactants, film formers, chelating agents, gelling
agents,
thickeners, emollients, humectants, moisturizers, vitamins, minerals,
viscosity and/or
rheology modifiers, sunscreens, keratolytics, depigmenting agents, retinoids,
hormonal compounds, alpha-hydroxy acids, alpha-keto acids, anti-mycobacterial
agents, antifungal agents, antimicrobials, antivirals, analgesics, lipidic
compounds,
anti-allergenic agents, H1 or H2 antihistamines, anti-inflammatory agents,
anti-
irritants, antineoplastics, immune system boosting agents, immune system
suppressing agents, anti-acne agents, anesthetics, antiseptics, insect
repellents,
skin cooling compounds, skin protectants, skin penetration enhancers,
exfollients,
lubricants, fragrances, coloring agents, staining agents, depigmenting agents,
hypopigmenting agents, preservatives, stabilizers, pharmaceutical agents,
photostabilizing agents, and mixtures thereof. In addition to the foregoing,
the
personal care products of the invention may contain any other compound for the
treatment of skin disorders.
Fillers useful in the present invention may be mineral or organic, and
lamellar, spherical or oblong. The filler may be chosen from talc, mica,
silica, kaolin,
polyamide powders such as Nylon (Orgasol from Atochem) powder, poiy-13-
alanine powder, polyethylene powder, acrylic polymer powder, polymethyl
methacrylate (PMMA) powder, for instance the product sold or made by Wacker
under the reference Covabead LH-85 (particle size 10-12 pm) or acrylic acid
copolymer powder (Polytrap(D from Dow Corning), polytetrafluoroethylene
(Teflon )
powders, lauroyllysine, boron nitride, starch, hollow polymer microspheres
such as
those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile, for instance Expancel (Nobel
Industrie), hollow polymer microspheres (Tospearl from Toshiba, for example),
precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate,
Celluflow TA-25 (from Collaborative), hydroxyapatite, hollow silica
microspheres
(Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules and polyester
particles. The fillers may be surface-treated, e.g., to make them lipophilic.
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The two-coat compositions of the invention may optionally comprise
materials that prevent the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin
by
blurring their ability to be observed, including soft focus materials, such as
optical
diffusers.
Non-limiting examples of soft focus materials suitable for the present
invention include calcium aluminum borosilicate, PMMA, polyethylene,
polystyrene,
methyl methacrylate, titanium dioxide, boron nitride, sericite, mica talc,
silicon hybrid
powders such as Gransil USQ and ESPQ, Velvesil 125, and silica, or mixtures
thereof.
Non-limiting examples of preservatives suitable for the present
invention include imidazonidyl urea, methylparaben, propylparaben,
butylparaben,
ethylparaben, m ethyl isothiazoli none, and phenoxyethanol, or mixtures
thereof.
The two-coat cosmetic compositions of some embodiments of the
invention may also comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier or vehicle
acceptable
for topical application to the skin, keratin fibers, or nails. The polymers of
the
invention may be soluble in the carrier, or they may be suspended as a
colloidal
dispersion in the vehicle.
Examples of such vehicles include, but are not limited to, water and
aqueous systems; glycerin; various hydrophilic solvents including alcohols
such as
ethanol, methanol, propanol and other alcohols; or any combinations thereof_
Hydrocarbon solvents useful in the practice of the invention, in some
embodiments,
may be chosen from mineral oils, mineral solvents, mineral spirits,
petrolatum,
waxes, synthetic hydrocarbons, animal oils, vegetable oils, and mixtures of
various
hydrocarbons. In other embodiments, typical cosmetic esters can be used,
including
isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate In some embodiments, isododecane
or a
light paraffinic solvent are used. In other embodiments, a non-hydrocarbon
solvent
such as amyl acetate, butyl acetate, isobutyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl
acetate or
isopropyl acetate are used.
In addition, the vehicle of the compositions according to the present
invention can be in the form of a suspension, gel, or solution, formulation.
Other
suitable topical carriers include an anhydrous liquid solvent such as oil and
mono- or
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polyhydric alcohols; aqueous-based single phase liquid solvent (e.g. hydro-
alcoholic
solvent system); anhydrous solid and semisolid (such as a gel and a stick);
and
aqueous based gel and mousse system.
The product form of the present invention may be, for example, an
aerosol, cream, emulsion, gel, liquid, lotion, mousse, pomade, powder, solid,
spray,
or stick.
The two-coat compositions of the invention are contemplated to be
useful in any number of commercial products, including but not limited to over-
the-
counter drugs and pharmaceuticals, artificial tanning products, sporting
camouflage,
foot-care products, fragrance-emitting products, analgesics, insect
repellents, poison
ivy products including poison ivy blocks, and decorative cosmetics including
various
make-up products, pressed powder, moisturizers, eye liners, body art,
lipsticks, lip
gloss, lip balms, lip liners, eye shadows, eye creams, nail care products,
and,
preferably, facial products such as foundations and concealers.
Two-Coat Compositions
A non-limiting example of the two-coat composition is a cosmetic
foundation comprising a base coat composition and a top coat composition. The
base coat composition comprises at least one water-soluble film forming
polymer,
and the top coat comprises at least one film former. Other materials may also
be
added to the base coat composition, to the top coat composition, or to both
coat
compositions for the purposes of, for example, coloring, comfort, filling in
fine lines
and wrinkles, creating a smooth, flawless appearance, and the like. The base
coat
composition, the top coat composition, or both coat compositions may
contribute to
the filling in of fine lines and wrinkles, and may provide a smooth, flawless
appearance. Additional, non-limiting examples of other materials that may be
added
to either the base coat composition, the top coat composition, or both coat
compositions, include coloring agents, fillers, soft focus materials,
preservatives,
tightening agents, solvents, vehicles, and carriers, and combinations thereof.
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In a preferred embodiment, the two-coat cosmetic or personal care
product comprises a base coat of Kollicoat Protect, Kollicoat IR, Labrasol,
fillers,
and water, and the top coat comprises Giovarez 1800, isododecane, pigments,
and
soft focus materials (see Example 1).
Preferred fillers in the present invention include, but are not limited to
talc, mica, silica microspheres, polyurethane beads, and nylon-12.
A preferred soft focus material in some embodiments of the invention is
cyclopentasiloxane and C30-45 alkyl dimethicone/polycyclohexene oxide
crosspolymer, commercially available from GE as Velvesil 125.
Optionally, the two-coat composition may comprise a tightening agent
such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate, albumin, and sodium silicate.
Method of Manufacture
For manufacture of the base coat composition, the "triple L" blade is
used for mixing the polymers into water at the desired concentration under low
speed in order to minimize aeration and foaming of the mixtures. The mixing
takes
place in a beaker at 60 C until a homogeneous/uniform result is achieved.
Moreover, Labrasol (from Gattefosse) is used as a processing aid, since it
functions
as a defoaming/anti-foaming product. At this point, fillers or other materials
are
added.
For manufacture of the top coat composition, the film forming polymer
is melted with solvent until a desired concentration is reached. At this
point,
pigments and other soft-focus materials are added.
The invention also provides kits comprising a base coat composition, a
top coat composition, and instructions for application of the compositions to
a
biological surface, such as, for example, skin. The base coat composition
comprises
as least one water-soluble film former. Optionally, the kit may comprise
applicators
for applying the base coat composition and the top coat composition.
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Methods of Use
Another embodiment of the invention provides methods for forming a
cosmetic film on a biological surface. Generally, the method comprises
applying a
base coat composition to a biological surface to form a base coat. The base
coat
composition comprises at least one water-soluble film former that is capable
of
forming a hydrophilic film on the biological surface. The base coat is
permitted to dry
either in part or in whole. The method also comprises applying a top coat
composition on the base coat to form a top coat which may be applied over all
or
part of the base coat. The top coat most preferably comprises at least one
film
former to enhance wear. The base coat and top coat form a hydrophobic film on
the
biological surface. The resulting cosmetic film is water-resistant, oil-
resistant,
migration-resistant, smooth, durable, and capable of filling in fine lines and
wrinkles,
yielding a flawless appearance of skin.
Another aspect of the invention provides methods for entrapping a
functional agent within a cosmetic film on a biological surface. The
functional agent
may be any agent which is desired to be held in intimate contact with the
surface,
including without limitation pigments, pharmaceuticals, cosmeceuticals and the
like.
The method comprises applying a base coat composition to the biological
surface,
forming a base coat, and applying a top coat composition on the base coat,
forming
a top coat. The base coat and the top coat form a hydrophobic cosmetic film on
the
biological surface, and a functional agent is entrapped within the cosmetic
film.
EXAMPLE 1
Table 1 provides illustrative formulations of cosmetic foundation
products comprising a base coat and a top coat.
Table 1.
Base Coat Top Coat
Water: g.s. 100% Giovarez 1800: 5-50%
Kollicoat Protect: 2-30% Isododecane: 30-60%
Kollicoat IR: 1-25% Pigments: 5-40%
Fillers: 5-20% Soft focus materials: 1-15%
Labrasol: 0.25-0.75%
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EXAMPLE 2
Base coat Compositions A and B were prepared along with top coat
Composition C, as set forth in Tables 2 and 3 below.
Table 2.
Ingredients Composition A (wt. %) Composition B (wt. %)
Water g.s. 100% g.s. 100%
Bentone 1 - 1
Kollicoat Protect 8 5
PVA 540 1 1
Kaolin 5 0.5
Magnesium Aluminum 2 2.5
Silicate
1 A powdered 50:50 blend of hectorite and hydroxyethylcellulose availbie from
Elementis Specialties Inc.
2 Kollicoat Protect comprises between about 55% and about 65% alcohol-
polyethylene glycol graft copolymers, between about 35% and 45% polyvinyl
alcohol,
and between about 0.1% and about 0.3% silicon dioxide, and is available from
BASF.
3 PVA 540 is Celvol 540 is from Celanese
Table 3.
Ingredients Composition C (wt. %
Isododecane g.s. 100%
Giovarez 1800 5
Acrylate Co./Isododecane 5
Wax 5
Nylon 5
Yellow Iron Oxide 1.0
Ti02 6.6
Red Iron Oxide 0.4
Brown Iron Oxide 0.6
Lucentite SAN 5
BPD-800 2
Croda erse 2
Polyvinyl stearyl ether available from Phoenix Chemical; 100% active.
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2 A 50:50 liquid blend of Acrylates Copolymer in lsododecane available from
Phoenix Chemical as Giovarez AC-5099 ML.
3 Nylon 12 sold as Orgasol 2002.
a Lithium Magnesium Silicate Kobo Products Inc.
A powdered blend of polyurethane (95-97%) and Silica (3-5%) having an average
particle size of 5 to 7 microns available from Kobo Products Inc.
6 Dow 2501 Cosmetic Wax, a polymer of dimethylsiloxane with polyoxyethylene
and/or polyoxypropylene side chains and containing 0. 05 % BHT.
7 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate and Sorbitan
Isostearate blend from Croda.
The ability of the base coat Compositions A and B and of the top coat
Composition C
to form a smooth film were examined and compared to the commercial product
Covergirl Outlast0 (trademarks of The Procter and Gamble Company) foundation,
which consists of a base coat and top coat. The testing protocol is described
below.
Test Method For Evaluating "Smoothness"
This method can be used to determine "smoothness" after a cosmetic
product is applied to a "non-skin" surface that emulates skin.
Roughness parameters of a substrate were measured pre- and post-
application of the product. Base coat compositions and top coat compositions
were
applied to circular polyurethane discs ("non-skin") obtained from _US
cosmetics
Corporation, Dayville, CT. and readings were taken pre- and post-application
of
product using the Visioscan 98 and the SELS (Surface Evaluation of Living
Skin)
2000 software. On average, women use 0.6 g of foundation for their face
(approx.
area of 200 cm2). The disc to which the product was applied has an area of 20
cm2.
Certain areas on the disc were marked (6 x 8 mm). The product (0.06 g) was
deposited on the disc and a height-adjustable drawdown bar was used to obtain
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uniform film of 15 mils in wet thickness. Prior to taking any images, the
product was
allowed to dry for 15 minutes. The image of the marked area was then taken by
a
built-in CCD-camera. The connection of the Visioscan VC 98 to the PC was done
via an image digitalization unit which configures the image in 256 gray level
pixel by
pixel, where 0 is black and 255 is white. The SELS software calculated surface
and
texture roughness parameters. The differences in roughness levels were
recorded
and the percentage improvement was calculated using the pre-application values
as
a baseline. Positive values indicate an increase in smoothness, and negative
values
indicate an increase in roughness. This procedure was performed with both the
base coat compositions and the top coat compositions.
Table 4.
Product Percentage Improvement
Covergir I Outlast base -29.8
coat
Covergirl Outlast top +26.3
coat
Composition A base coat +30.6
Composition C top coat +32.6
The results indicated that the Compositions A and C exhibit superior
"smoothness readings compared to the Covergirl base coat and to coat
compositions, respectively. Both the base coat composition and the top coat
composition of Example 2 exhibited greater smoothness percentage improvement
than did the Covergirl control products.
EXAMPLE 3
The ability of the top coat composition described in Example 2 to form
a smooth film when applied to their respective base coat compositions was
evaluated using PRIMOS (Phaseshift Rapid In Vivo Measurement of Skin)
available
form GFMesstechnik GmbH.
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The optical method used for measuring is the digital stripe projection
technique, based on digital micro mirror projectors. Stripes with sinusoidal
intensity
of brightness are projected onto the surface of the measuring object and the
projection, (the stripes changed by the height profile of the measuring
object) is
recorded at a defined triangulation angle by a CCD camera. The topography of
the
measuring object is calculated from the stripes' position and the grey value
of all
registered individual image points. Depending on the measurement task,
different
stripe projection procedures can be used. The 3D measurement effect is
achieved
by the fact that minute elevation differences on the surface deflect the
parallel
projection stripes and that these deflections constitute a qualitative and
quantitative
measure of the skin profile.
0.06g of top coat was applied to the 20 cm2 substrates as described in
Example 2 to which the base coat had been. Images were taken of the marked
area
before and after application of foundation. Smoothness is determined using
this
method by ascertaining the smoothness depth R4, which is the area of the void
space in the surface of the film between a line at the highest point on the
surface of
the film and a line that is the mean distance between the high point and the
low point
of the surface. Percentage improvement was calculated using the pre-
application
values as a baseline. Positive values indicate an increase in smoothness, and
negative values indicate an increase in roughness (decrease in smoothness).
Table 5.
Product Percentage Improvement in
Smoothness
Covergirl0 Outlast +30.6%
Base coat + Top coat
Composition A Base +80.5%
coat + Composition C
Top coat
Composition B Base +84.6%
coat + Composition C
Top coat
This data shows that the two-part compositions of the present invention
provided
superior smoothness to the synthetic skin substitute than a leading foundation
brand.
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EXAMPLE 4
Non-Transfer Test
This test predicts the ability of a cosmetic film to resist color transfer to
objects contacting the skin. The following procedure was used to perform the
non-
transfer test on the cosmetic film obtained by the products identified in
table 5:
(1) Prepare a 3 by 4 inch sheet of collagen sausage casing by hydrating it in
a
90% relative humidity chamber for at least two hours.
(2) Remove the collagen sheet to ambient conditions and immediately lay down
on a glass slide, while taping the 4 corners ensuring the exposed surface of
the coliagen to be flat and free of wrinkles.
(3) Allow the collagen-wrapped slide to equilibrate at ambient conditions for
24
hours.
(4) Draw down thin, uniform films of foundation on the collagen. The film area
should be at least 2 by 2 inches.
(5) Allow the cosmetic samples on both the collagen to sit at ambient
conditions
for 24 hours.
(6) Cut two discs from a clean, white Styrofoam dinner plate using a 1.5 inch
diameter circular punch. The surface and edges of each disk should be
smooth and even.
(7) Firmly attach using double-sided adhesive tape the discs from step (6) to
bottom surface of a 2 kg weight.
(8) Set the weight on top of cosmetic sample applied to the collagen surface
so
that the disc is in contact with the film. One of the disc is placed onto a
drop
of water, and the second disc is placed onto a drop of oil.
(9) Grasping the top of the 2 kg weight, carefully rotate the disc through 360
degree while maintaining the 2 kg force on the film. Do not lift or press the
weight into the film during the rotating motion to the weight. The entire 360
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degree rotation should be completed within a time interval between 3 and 5
seconds.
(10) Lift the weight straight up off the film surface. Carefully remove the
disc from
the weight avoiding damage to the disc.
The disc was subjectively evaluated with regard to the amount of
composition retained thereon. Data obtained from this test demonstrated better
non-
transfer imparted by the base coat Compositions A and B and by top coat
Composition C as compared to the Covergirl base coat and top coat
formulations.
No. Amount of material transferred onto the disc is estimated subjectively.
EXAMPLE 5
Peel Adhesion Test
Peel tests follow ASTM D 3330: Peel Adhesion Of Pressure Sensitive Tape. The
test
process followed was identical to ASTM with regard to specified equipment,
peel
speed, and measurement specifications. However, the test specimen preparation
and materials are necessarily different from ASTM. Accordingly, a nylon
substrate is
used instead of steel; the product is cast on substrate instead of tape
applied to
substrate, and a breathable nylon fabric backing is used in lieu of a
polyester film
backing. The peel test provides very repeatable differentiation between the
adhesive
properties of the foundation to the substrate by virtue of the nylon fabric
being peeled
off. This test used the Peel Tester Model TA-96 for 180 degree Peel Testing
and
utilizes a TA.XT2 Texture Analyzer, along with the Texture Expert for
Windows Software provided by Stable Micro Systems, LTD., Surrey, UK.
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Table 6.
Product Average Force (g) to Remove Film
from Substrate
Covergirl base coat and top coat 0.004
Composition A base coat and 3.802
Composition C top coat
Composition B base coat and 4.865
Composition C top coat
The data shows that the two-part compositions of the present invention
provided superior resistance to delamination from the synthetic skin
substitute than a
leading foundation brand.
The invention having been described by the foregoing description of
the preferred embodiments, it will be understood that the skilled artisan may
make
modifications and variations of these embodiments without departing from the
spirit
or scope of the invention as set forth in the following claims.
