Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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TUBULAR SEAMLESS KNITTED BRASSIERE AND METHOD OF MAKING
SAME
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[001] The present invention is related to brassieres, and particularly to a
novel
seamless knitted brassiere.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[002] Seamless garments are substantially completed garments formed on
knitting
machines and offer several advantages to garment manufacturers. Design
flexibility,
manufacturing simplicity, and near-complete automation of the garment
production
process are just a few. For example, many types of garments are possible
including
outerwear, e.g., sweaters, and undergarments, e.g. brassieres, underwear, etc.
Because
knitting machines form substantially all of the garments, little additional
processing is
required for these garments to be "ready-to-wear."
[003] Consumers value dimensional stability in garments. Dimensional stability
can
be thought of as the ability of a garment to maintain its shape during wear.
Dimensional stability may be influenced by garment design, fabric structure in
the
garment, and yarn construction. For seamless garments, however, the various
openings
in the garments and the absence of seams undermine garment dimensional
stability.
Because the openings in seamless garments are typically formed in a single
fabric, the
garment is subject to distortion and may not maintain its shape over the life
of the
garment. The absence of sewn seams, which improve the strength and durability
of a
garment, may limit the ability of a garment to withstand and recover from
distortion.
[004] While seamless garments have been made, none have addressed the
challenges
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of producing a seamless knitted brassiere with targeted areas of dimensional
stability.
There is a need, therefore, for an improved seamless knitted brassiere, and in
particular
for a seamless knitted brassiere with improved strap and brassiere stability.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE SEVERAL VIEWS OF THE DRAWINGS
[005] Figure 1 shows a front perspective view of a seamless knitted brassiere.
[006] Figure 2 shows a back perspective view of a seamless knitted brassiere.
[007] Figure 3 shows a detailed view of one of the shoulder straps of a
seamless
knitted brassiere shown in Figures 1 and 2.
[008] Figures 4A and 4B are schematics of a tubular knitted fabric that forms
the front
and back of a seamless knitted brassiere.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[009] Certain exemplary embodiments of the present invention are described
below
and illustrated in the accompanying figures. The embodiments described are
only for
purposes of illustrating the present invention and should not be interpreted
as limiting
the scope of the invention, which, of course, is limited only by the claims
below. Other
embodiments of the invention, and certain modifications and improvements of
the
described embodiments, will occur to those skilled in the art, and all such
alternate
embodiments, modifications and improvements are within the scope of the
present
invention.
[0010] As shown in Figures 1, the seamless knitted brassiere 10 is generally
formed as
tubular knitted fabric that includes a body-encircling portion 15 with a front
20 and
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back 30 (shown in Figure 2). A shoulder strap 40 is integrally knit into
portions of the
front 20 and back 30 and forms the arm openings 80 and 82, and the neck
opening 84.
The strap 40 includes at least two welts and first run guard 64. A second run
guard 28
is formed on the top edge of the body-encircling portion 15. The lower edges
of the
brassiere 10 may include a welted band 70 that circumscribes the torso opening
86. In
other embodiments, other types of finished edges may form the lower edge of
the
brassiere 10.
[0011] As shown in Figure 1, the front 20 of the brassiere 10 includes breast
cups 24, a
front central area 22 and underbust areas 26 bordering the breast cups 24, and
a strap
engagement portion 21. The strap 40 is knit into the brassiere 10 at the strap
engagement portion 21. At the upper edge of the body-encircling portion 15 is
a run
guard 28 (also shown on the back 30 in Figure 2) that prevents unraveling of
the fabric,
creates a smooth edge, and provides cushion for the wearer. The strap
engagement
portion, breast cups, front central and underbust areas 21, 22, 24, and 26,
however, may
have any shape, size or knit construction. For example, the various knitted
areas of the
brassiere may be formed with single jersey stitches, knit-miss stitches,
alternating knit-
miss stitches, and may include held stitches for one or more courses.
[0012] As shown in Figure 2, the back 30 includes back areas 34 and 36. The
shoulder
strap 40 may be knit into the back 30. In an embodiment, the strap is knit
into the back
strap engagement portion 32 at the first and second transition zones 42 and
44. As
described above for the front 20 of the brassiere, the shape, size and
construction of the
back knitted areas 32, 34, 36, and transition zones 42 and 44 may be modified.
For
example, the back knitted areas 32, 34 and 36 may include, but are not limited
to, single
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jersey stitches, knit-miss stitches, alternating knit-miss stitches, and may
include held
stitches for one or more courses.
[0013] The various knitted areas of the brassiere 10 may be formed with a
variety of
knit constructions and shapes, and are not limited to the specific sizes or
shapes shown
in the Figures. For example, the shape and size of the breast cups may be
modified
depending on the size of the brassiere needed, e.g., 32A, 34C, etc. For
example, a
larger or smaller underbust 26 may be used to augment the breast cups 24.
[0014] Referring again to Figures 1 and 2, the shoulder strap 40 is knit along
a portion
of its circumferential length into the brassiere 10 above each of the breast
cups 24,
while also being knit along a portion of its length with the back 30 of the
brassiere. In
the embodiments shown in Figures 1 and 2, the shoulder strap 40 is knit with
the back
30 to a lesser degree than the amount of shoulder strap 40 that is knit into
the front 20
of the body-encircling portion 15. While the embodiment shown includes a
single
shoulder strap 40, portions of which are knit into the body-encircling portion
15, other
embodiments may include two shoulder straps knit into the body-encircling
portion 15.
For example, the terminal ends of two shoulder straps may be knit into the
body-
encircling portion 15.
[0015] As shown in Figure 3, shoulder strap 40 includes first and second welts
60 and
62, along the length of the strap. The second welt 62 is formed along the
length of the
strap adjacent the first welt 60. The first and second welts 60 and 62 may,
for example,
be a double welt or a welted edge. The strap 40 also includes first run guard
64 along
the edge of the welts 60 and 62 that bounds the arm opening 80 (or 82). Two
welts 60
and 62 in the shoulder strap 40 improve brassiere stability, prevent the
straps from
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unraveling during use, and also provide cushion for the wearer. In an
exemplary
embodiment, the welts 60 and 62 may have different widths. In an embodiment,
the
first welt 60 may have width greater than the width of the second welt 62. In
other
embodiments, however, the widths of the welts 60 and 62 may have substantially
the
same width.
[0016] Referring to Figure 3, the welt 60 may be formed of several knitted
courses that
are turned to yield a smooth edge. The width of the welt 60 may be influenced
in part
by the number of courses knit into the welt, yarn tension and fiber
properties.
[0017] As shown in Figures 3, the welted edge 62 is formed adjacent the welt
60. In
one embodiment, the welted edge 62 is formed of a combination of knit-miss
stitches,
with certain stitches held for several courses, for example for 16 courses. In
another
embodiment, the welt edge 62 includes 1 x 1 knit-miss stitches, with the
alternating
missed stitches held for 6 courses, followed by two missed stitch courses, and
another 6
courses of 1 x 1 knit-miss stitches with the alternating stitches held
therein. A second
set of two missed stitch courses introduce formation of the first run guard
64.
[0018] Referring again to Figure 3, the run guard 64 has a construction that
includes
knit-miss alternating stitches, single-jersey stitches, and held stitches over
several
courses. The construction of the run guard 64 may limit unraveling on the
strap, but
also creates a smooth, finished edge, while also providing more cushion and
comfort
along the straps edge. In an embodiment, the run guard 64 is knit over 12
courses,
however, the run guard may be formed over fewer or lesser courses. For
example, the
run guard includes single jersey stitches, 1 x 1 alternating knit-miss
stitches, 1 x 1 knit-
miss stitches, and 1 x 1 knit-miss stitches with held stitches for a plurality
of courses.
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In one exemplary embodiment, the courses in the run guard 64 include the
following
stitches: two courses of 1 x 1 alternating knit-miss stitches beginning with a
missed
stitch; a course of single jersey stitches; two to three courses of 1 x 1 knit-
miss stitches
with missed stitches held for each of the two or three courses, the first of
the two or
three courses beginning with a knit stitch; two courses of 1 x 1 knit-miss
stitches with
held stitches for two courses, the knit-miss stitches alternating with the
preceding
course; and a terminal course of 1 x 1 knit-miss stitches alternating with the
preceding
courses, and beginning with a knit stitch.
[0019] Referring to Figure 3, the first and second transitions zones 42 (not
shown in
Figure 3) and 44 join the shoulder strap 40 to the strap engagement portion
32. The
transition zones 42 and 44 include held stitches that improve strap stability
and ease the
tension exerted at the strap engagement portion 32 and back areas 34 and 36
(shown in
Figure 2) when the brassiere 10 is worn. Further, the transition zones 42 and
44 include
the press-off, or lock stitch at the arm openings 82 and 80, respectively. In
an
embodiment, the knit structure at the transition zones 42 and 44 include three
held
stitches for about five courses. The held stitches in these transition zones
42 and 44
increase the mass of material where the shoulder strap 40 and the body
encircling
portion 15 meet.
[0020] Referring to Figures 2, the strap engagement portion 32 is generally
less
extensible than other knitted areas of the brassiere, e.g., the back panels
36, and provide
for a more dimensionally stable brassiere. In an exemplary embodiment, the
strap
engagement portion 32 has 1 x 1 knit-miss stitches for five courses, followed
by a
jersey stitch at the sixth course. In other embodiments, different knit
constructions may
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be used, e.g., 1 x 1, 1 x 2, or 1 x 3 alternating knit-miss stitches may be
used with
alternating courses of jersey stitches. In other embodiments, 1 x 2
alternating knit-miss
stitches may be used with non-alternating courses of jersey stitches. The
strap
engagement portion 32, in conjunction with the held stitches at the transition
zones 42
and 44, facilitates a smooth mechanical transition from the shoulder strap 40
down the
back 30 of the brassiere 10.
[0021] As described above, a circular knitting machine is used to form
seamless knitted
brassiere 10 that comprises a tubular knitted fabric. An exemplary circular
knitting
machine includes a cylinder and dial. The cylinder includes a plurality of
cylinder
needles housed therein, linked to a cam system that controls needle movement.
The
dial has a plurality of dial bits arranged perpendicularly with the cylinder
needles. The
dial bits are operably linked to the cylinder and cam system to coordinate
formation of
different parts of the brassiere 10 discussed above. Each, or a predetermined
set, of the
cylinder needles and dial bits may be selectively engaged to form the seamless
knitted
brassiere 10. This selective disengagement may be used to form specific knit
structures
and/or the arm openings 80 and 82 described above.
[0022] In one embodiment, the circular knitting machine is set up with eight
yarn
feeders. Not every feeder needs to be activated. For example, only six feeders
may be
used. So configured, each rotation of the cylinder could yield six knitted
courses of a
tubular knitted fabric. Further, each yarn feed may introduce one or more
yarns as
needed. Accordingly, the brassiere 10 may be formed from a variety of fiber
types and
yarn structures. Exemplary fiber types include, but are not limited to,
cotton, rayon,
polyester, polyolefin, polyamide 6, polyamide 6,6, elastane, and spandex.
Blended
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fibers also may be used such as cotton polyester. The yarn structures may be
spun
yarns such as ring spun, open-end, and air-jet spun staple yarns. In other
embodiments,
the yarns may be continuous multifilament yarns, either textured or non-
textured.
[0023] Figures 4A and 4B shows schematic diagrams of the front 20 and back 30
of the
tubular knitted fabric that forms the seamless knitted brassiere 10, and
indicates the
general progression of knitting through steps 100, 120 and 140. The knitting
diagrams
show the front and back of the brassiere in two figures for illustrative
purposes only.
[0024] Referring again to Figures 4A and 4B, the first step 100 may include
forming
the first welt edge 60 of the shoulder strap 40. The initial several rotations
of the
cylinder form the first double welt 60, while the dial bits hold a certain
number of
stitches until the desired size of the welt is achieved. For example, with a
six active
feeder used, each rotation of the cylinder forms six knitted courses. A welt
with 42
courses would be formed with seven rotations of the cylinder. When the welt 60
is
complete, the dial bits release the stitches and the first course of the
second welted edge
62 is knit which begins step 120 shown in Figure 4A and4B.
[0025] Referring again to Figures 4A and 4B, the second step 120 forms the
welted
edge 62, run guard 64, transition zones 42 and 44, strap engagement portions
32 and 21,
and the arm openings 80 and 82. The second step 120 begins when a certain
segment
of needles in the circular knitting machines are inactivated, while the
remaining
activated needles knit the front strap engagement portion 21 shown in Figure
4A, and
the transition zones 42 and 44, and back strap engagement portion 32 shown in
Figure
4B. While the knitted portions 21, 32 and transition zones 42, 44 are knit, a
certain
number of feeders are also withdrawn from the cylinder needles to form the arm
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openings 80 and 82.
[0026] Referring again to Figures 4A and 4B, the third step 140 includes
knitting the
body-encircling portion 15. This step begins with knitting the second run
guard 28.
Similar to the run guard 64 on the strap 40, the second run guard may include
a
combination of courses that include, but are not limited to, 1 x 1 alternating
knit-miss
stitches, single jersey stitches, and 1 x 1 knit-miss stitches with held
stitches for several
courses. Upon formation of the run guard 28, one or more courses of the body-
encircling portion 15 is knit. As described above, the cylinder is
continuously rotated
while the knitting action is adjusted to form the particular knit structures,
and to
account for the different shapes of the breast cups 24, front central area 22,
under bust
26, and back portions 34 and 36. For example, in an embodiment, the breast
cups 24
may be formed with single jersey stitches. The underbust 26 may be formed to
include
one or more upper knit-miss stitch combinations. The back areas 36 may include
1 x 1
knit-miss stitches, while the central back area 34 may have 1 x 3 knit-miss
stitches in
alternating courses.
[0027] As shown in Figures 4A and 4B, formation of the welted band 70 is
formed
around the lower circumferential edge of the brassiere 10 to complete step
140. After
the last courses of the underbust 26, front central area 22, and back portions
34 and 36
are knit, the dial bits hold the knit stitches as the welted band 70 is knit.
When the
desired length of the welt is knit, the dial bits transfer the stitches to the
cylinder
needles and the completed brassiere 10 is expelled from the knitting machine.
The
brassiere 10 may be further processed as needed, for example washing, dying
and
finishing. The brassiere 10 is then packaged for distribution to the consumer.
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[0028] Although the present invention has been described with exemplary
embodiments, it is to be understood that modifications and variations may be
utilized.
The scope of the invention should not be limited by the preferred embodiments
set forth
in the examples but should be given the broadest interpretation consistent
with the
description as a whole. The claims are not to be limited to the preferred or
exemplified
embodiments of the invention.
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