Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
,.r
SOLID COMPOSITIONS
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a solid composition, particularly for
coloring and/or bleaching
hair.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
It is known already systems for custom coloration of keratinous fibers,
particularly mammal hair
such as human hair. See for example I'CI' patent application W02012/127429
from
COLORIGI IT LTD, published on 2711` September 2012. W020121127429 discloses
particularly
methods, systems; tablet formulations, a dispensing device configured for
dispensing tablet
formulations, an optical reader for obtaining optical information from
keratinous fibers, a device
and a method for predicting the treatment operation of keratinous fibers and
for selecting a
suitable composition for treating keratinous fibers according to the
prediction, and systems for
custom treatment of keratinous fibers which utilize any of the tablet
formulations, dispensing
device, optical reader and predicting device and method, either alone or in
combination.
There is a need for providing solid compositions =--. e.g. tablet formulations
exhibiting a superior
performance and being particularly suitable for use with the methods, systems,
and devices as
those disclosed in W02012/127429.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a solid composition as described hereinafter,
particularly for use
with the methods, systems, and devices as those disclosed in W02012/127429.
The present
invention also relates to head-on compositions thereof, method for preparing
thereof, kits thereof,
packaging thereof:
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The inventors have surprisingly found that the use of the systems and devices,
as well as the
methods disclosed for example in PCT patent application W02012/127429, which
is
incorporated herewith in its entirety, can be improved further by designing
and using specific
solid compositions and kits thereof, and particularly by carefully selecting
the types and
proportions of components to be incorporated into these compositions and kits
thereof
Specifically, it has been found that the treatment of the keratinous fibers
was improved by
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
2
selecting specific types of dyes to be incorporated into the composition;
and/or by selecting
specific chelants, radical scavengers, solvents, oxidizing agents, thickeners
and/or a rheology
modifiers, carbonate ion sources, conditioning agents, surfactants, alkalizing
agents, pH
modifiers and/or buffering agents, and/or binder.
Solid compositions
By "solid composition", it is meant the composition to be stored. T his
composition is not suitable
for use as such for treating keratinous fibers. In contrast, it is not meant
the final composition, i.e.
the ready-to-use composition to be made shortly before applying in on-head
and/or treating the
keratinous fibers.
The present invention also relates to a composition in a solid form. The
composition may be in
the form of a (solid) tablet, alternatively in a (solid) pulverulent form,
alternatively in the form of
a (solid) foam.
The solid composition may be uncoated or coated. When coated, the composition
may be
partially coated, or integrally coated.
Whenever proportions, ranges and concentrations are expressed "by weight of
the total
composition", it is meant by weight of the total composition i.e. by weight of
the total solid
composition, without coating and before dilution/dissolution/disintegration
into a medium and/or
mixing with another composition. Whenever proportions, ranges and
concentrations are
expressed "by weight of the total on-head composition", it is meant by weight
of the total final
(ready-to-use) composition, after dilution/dissolution/disintegration into a
medium and/or mixing
with another composition and being ready for being applied onto keratinous
fibers.
The solid composition is substantially free of water. By "substantially free",
it is meant that the
composition comprises less than about 5%, alternatively less than about 4%,
alternatively less
than about 3%, alternatively less than about 2%, alternatively less than about
1% water by weight
of the total composition, or alternatively is free of water.
Disintegration rate and other properties
The solid composition is fast-disintegrating, and has a Disintegration rate of
less than about 5
minutes, alternatively less than about 3min, alternatively less than about
2min, alternatively less
than about /aria, alternatively less than about 30 seconds, alternatively less
than about 15sec,
alternatively less than about Ssec, alternatively less than about 3sec,. The
Disintegration rate. may
be measured using conventional methods. It has been surprisingly found that
providing
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
3
composition with such disintegration profile allows obtaining an improved
bleaching and/or
dyeing performance. Indeed, time management is key when wanting to bleach
and/Or color hair.
A composition having such Disintegration profile can be obtained by using
chemical and/or
physical means. Further preferred properties can be found in W02012/127429,
particularly the
disclosure from page 109, line 28 to page 113, line 12, which is incorporated
herewith by
reference.
Superdisintegrant agents
As per chemical means, the composition may comprise a component suitable for
obtaining a
Disintegration rate as defined hereinbefore. The composition may comprise a
superdisintegrant
component. By "superdisintegrant component", it is meant a component having a
water
absorption ratio of at least about 0.5, alternatively from about 0.5 to about
2, alternatively from
about 0.5 to about 1.5, alternatively from about 0.6 to about 0.9. The water
absorption ratio is
defined as the change in weight following wetting of the tablet divided by the
weight of the dry
tablet.
The superdisintegrant component may be substantially water-insoluble. By
"water-insoluble", it
is meant that the superdisintegrant component has a solubility of less than
about l.Ograrn.s,
alternatively less than about 3g, alternatively less than about 0.3g,
alternatively less than about
0.1g per kg of water (at 25 C, pH 7). The superdisintegrant component may be
selected from the
group consisting of polymeric superdisintegrant components, non-polymeric
superdisintegrant
components, or mixtures thereof, alternatively from the group consisting of
crosslinked
polymers; alternatively from the group consisting of crosslinked celluloses,
crosslinked
polyvinylpyrolidone, crosslinked starch, crosslinked alginic acid, crosslinked
poly(meth)acrylic
acid, polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, alternatively from the group
consisting of
crosslinked celluloses, crosslinked polyvinylpyrroli done, crosslinked starch,
and mixtures
thereof, alternatively from the group consisting of crosslinked carboxyrnethyl
cellulose,
crosslinked polyvinylpyrrolidone, sodium starch glycolate, and mixtures
thereof. Commercially
available superdisintegrant components may be found for example under the
brands Ac-Di-Sol ,
Polyplasdon.e and Primo;ei .
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of superdisintegrant
components of less than
about 10%, alternatively from about 0.5 to about 10%, alternatively less than
about 5%,
alternatively from about 0.5% to about 5%, alternatively less than about 3%,
alternatively from
about 0,5% to about 3%, by weight of the total composition.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
4
Disintegration auxiliary component
The solid composition may also comprise a disintegration auxiliary component,
alternatively a
water-soluble disintegration auxiliary component, By "disintegration auxiliary
component", it is
meant any component that would contribute to the Disintegration profile of the
present
composition, particularly by exhibiting a low compressibility and cohesiveness
enhancing tablet
porosity and thus facilitating tablet disintegration via capillary action
and/or by exhibiting an
intrinsic disintegrating property. This includes a spray-dried or agglomerated
water-soluble
agent, a binder with an intrinsic disintegrating property, an exothermic
agent, a non-swellable
agent., it gas-releasing agent, an enzymatic system.
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of disintegration auxiliary
components of
from 10%. alternatively from 15%, by weight of the total composition.
Further ingredients
The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition
to the ingredients
indicated above, fiirther ingredients in order to farther enhance the
properties of the composition.
Suitable further ingredients include, but are not limited to: oxidizing
agents; alkalizing agents;
oxidative dye precursors, direct dyes; chelants; radical scavengers; pH
modifiers and buffering
agents; thickeners and/or rheology modifiers; carbonate ion sources;
peroxyrnonocarbonate ion
M sources; anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic
surfactants, and mixtures thereo ;
anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zs'itterionic polymers, and
mixtures thereof;
fragrances; enzymes; dispersing agents; peroxide stabilizing agents;
antioxidants; natural
ingredients (such as proteins, protein compounds, and plant extracts);
conditioning agents (such
as silicones and cationiw polymers); ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers
and pearling agents
(such as titanium dioxide and mica); and mixtures thereof.
Suitable further ingredients referred to above, but not specifically described
below, are listed it
the International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, (8th ed.; The
Cosmetics,
Toiletry, and Fragrance Association). Particularly, vol. 2, sections 3
(Chemical Classes) and 4
(Functions), which are useful in identifying specific adjuvants to achieve a
particular purpose or
multipurpose, A few of these ingredients are discussed hereinbelow, whose
disclosure is of
course non-exhaustive,
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
Oxidizing agents
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at
least one source of
an oxidizing agent. Any oxidizing agent known in the art may be used.
Preferred oxidizing
agents are water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents. As used herein, "water-
soluble" means that
5 in standard conditions at least about 0.1 g, preferably about i g, more
preferably about I Og of the
oxidizing agent can be dissolved in I liter of deionized water at 25 C. The
oxidizing agents are
valuable for the initial solubilisation and decolorisation of the melanin
(bleaching) and accelerate
the oxidation of the oxidative dye precursors (oxidative dyeing) in the hair
shaft,
Typically, the on-head composition may comprise a total amount of oxidizing
agents ranging
from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 1% to about 7%,
alternatively from
about 2% to about 5%, by weight of the total on-head composition.
Suitable water-soluble oxidizing agents include, but are not limited to:
inorganic. peroxygen
materials capable of yielding hydrogen peroxide in an aqueous solution.
Suitable water-soluble peroxygen oxidizing agents include, but are not limited
to: hydrogen
peroxide; inorganic alkali metal peroxides (such as sodium periodate and
sodium peroxide);
organic peroxides (such as urea peroxide and melamine peroxide); inorganic
perhydrate salt
bleaching compounds (such as the alkali metal salts of perborates,
perearbonates, perphosphates,
persilicates, persuiphates and the like); and mixtures thereof, Inorganic
perhydrate salts may be
incorporated for example as monohydrates, tetrahydrates. Alkyl/aryl peroxides
and/or
peroxidases may also be used. Mixtures of two or more such oxidizing agents
can be used if
desired. The oxidizing agents may be provided in aqueous solution or as a
powder which is
dissolved prior to use,
In a specific embodiment, the composition comprises a water-soluble oxidizing
agent selected
from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide, percarbonates (which may be
used to provide a
source of both oxidizing agent and carbonate ions and or ammonium ions),
persulphates, and
mixtures thereof.
When the composition of the present invention is obtained by mixing a
developer composition
and a tint composition prior to use, the oxidizing agent may be present in the
developer
composition. The developer composition may be based on any desired formulation
chassis,
including any commercial product, for example an oil-in-water emulsion, or
alternatively a solid
composition comprising a superdisintegrant agent. Typical developer
compositions comprise
about 6% or about 9% of the H202 relative to the total weight of the developer
Composition. A
commercial example is the Welloxon Emulsion with respectively about 6% and
about 9%
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
6
H202, marketed by Wella and comprising as 1NCI ingredients: Water, H202,
Cetearyl Alcohol,
Ceteareth-25, Salicylic Acid, Phosphoric Acid, Disodium Phosphate, Etidronic
Acid.
Alkalizing agents
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise an
alkalizing agent.
Any alkalizing agent known in the art may be used.
Typically, the on-head composition may comprise a total amount of alkalizing
agents ranging
from about 0.1 % to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 6%,
alternatively from
about 1% to about 4%, by weight of the total on-head composition.
Suitable alkalizing agents include, but are not limited to: ammonia;
alkanolamines (such as
rnonoethanoiamine, diethanolamine, triethanolanilne, monopropanolan inc,
dipropanolaminc,
tripropanolarnine); 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-
propanol, and 2-
amino--2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol; guanidiuna salts; alkali metal and
ammonium
hydroxides (such as sodium hydroxide); alkali metal and ammonium carbonates;
and mixtures
thereof, Typical alkalizing agents are ammonia andior monoethanolamine.
Preferably, if present,
the ammonium ions and carbonate ions are present in the composition at a
weight ratio of from
3:1 to 1:10, alternatively from 2:1 to 1:5.
When the composition of the present invention is obtained by mixing a
developer and a tint
composition prior to use, the alkalizing agent is generally present in the
tint composition.
Oxidative dye precursors
The composition according to the present invention may fitrther comprise
oxidative dye
precursors, which are usually classified either as primary intermediates (also
known as
developers) or couplers (also known as secondary intermediates). Various
couplers may be used
with primary intermediates in order to obtain different shades. Oxidative dye
precursors may be
free bases or the cosmetically acceptable salts thereof
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of oxidative dye precursors
ranging, from
about 0.01% to about 40%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 25%, by
weight of the total
composition. The solid composition may comprise a total amount of primary
intermediates
ranging from about 0.01 % to about 25%, alternatively from about 0.1 % to
about 15%, by weight
of the total composition. The solid composition may comprise a total amount of
couplers ranging
from about 0.019 to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.01% to about 10%, by
weight of the
total composition. Typically, the on-head composition may comprise a total
amount of oxidative
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
7
dye precursors ranging up to about 12%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about
10%,
alternatively from about 0.3% to about 8%, alternatively from about 0.5% to
about 6%, by
weight of the total on-head composition.
Suitable primary intermediates include, but are not limited to: toluene-2,5-
diarnine, p-
phenylenediarnine, N-phenyl-p-phenylenediannine, rN;iY'-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-
phenylenediannine, 2-hydroxyethyl-p-pheny'enediamine, hydroxypropyl-bis-(N`-
hydroxyethyl-p-
phenylenediamine), 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediarnine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-
p-
phenylenediamine, 2,2'-(2-(4-aminophenylarnino)ethylazanediyl)diethanol, 2-
(2,5-diarnino-4-
rnethoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dial, 2-(7-amino-21 -benzo[b][1,4]oxazin-4(3H)-
yl)ethanol, 2-
chloro-p-phenylenediarnine, p-aminophenol, p-(methylarnino)phenol, 4-amino-r-
cresol, 6-
arnirio-m-cresol, 5-ethyl-o-aminophenol, 2-rraetboxy-p-phenylenediamine, 2 2'-
metrhylenebis-4-
anainophÃnol, 2,4,5,6-tetraniinopyriniidine, 2,5,6-triamino-4-pyrimidinol, 1-
hydroxyethyl-4,5-
diarninopyrazole sulfate, 4,5-diamino-l-rnethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-
ethylpyrazole, 4,5-
diamino-l-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-butylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-
pentylpyrazole, 4,5-
diarnino-l-benzylpyra ole, 2,3-diarrino-6,7-dihydropyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-
I(5H)-one
diniethosultonate, 4,5-diamino-l-hexylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-heptylpyrazole,
methoxymethyl-
1,4-diarninobenzeae, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyetliyl)-N-(4-arninoplrenyl)-1,2-
diaminotharie, 2-[(3-
Aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-yl)oxy]-ethanol, salts thereof and mixtures
thereof.
Suitable couplers include, but are not limited to: resorcinol, 4-
chlororesorcinol, 2-
chlororesorcinol, 2-methyiresoreinol. 4,6-'+,6-1,3-diol, 2,4-dirnethylhenzerie-
1,3-
diol, m-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-naetliyl-5-
hydroxyethylaminophenol, 3-
ainino-2.6-dimethylphenol, 3-amino-2,4-dichlorophenol, 5-amino-6-chloro-o-
cresol. 5-amino-4-
chloro-o-cresol, 6--hydroxybenzoniorpholinÃ, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 2-amino-S-
phenylphenol,
2-arnino-5-niethylphenol, 2-amino-6-methvlphenol, 2-amino--5-ethoxyphenol, 5-
methyl-2-
(methylamino)phenol, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 2-arr-lino-4-
hydroxyethylaminoanisole , 1,3-
bis-(2,4-dianiinophenoxy)-propane, 2,2'-(2-methyl-1,3-
phenylene)bis(azanediyl)diethanol,
benzene-1,3-diamino, 2,2'-(4,6-diarnino- I,3-phenylene)bis(oxy)diethanol, 3-
(pyrrol.idi.n-1-
yl)aniline, 1-(3-(dimethylarnirro)phenyl)i.rrea, 1-(3-arninophenyl)urea, 1-
naphthol, 2-methyl-l-
naphthol, 1,5-naphthalenediol, 2,7-naphthalenediol or l-acetoxy,-2-
metliyinaphthalene, 4-chloro-
2-methylnaplithalen-l-ol, 4-methoxy-2-methylnaphthalcn-l-ol, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-
dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dimethoxy-3,5-pyridinediamine, 3-amino-2-tnethylamino-6-
methoxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, pyridine-2,6-
diol, 5,6-
dihydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 3-methyl-1-phenyl-1H-
pyrazol-
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
8
5(411)-one, 1,2.4-trihydroxyhenzene, 2-(henzo[d][1,3]dioxol-5-ylatnino}ethanol
(also known as
hydroxyethyi-3,4-methylenedioxva,.iiline), and mixtures thereof.
When the on-head composition is obtained by mixing a tint (solid) composition
and a developer
(solid) composition, the primary intermediates and couplers are usually
incorporated into the tint
composition, particularly into a tint solid composition according to the
present invention.
Direct Dyes
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise
compatible direct dyes,
in an amount sufficient to provide additional coloring, particularly with
regard to intensity. The
solid composition may comprise a total amount of direct dyes ranging from
about 0.01% to about
15%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight of the total
composition. Typically,
the on-head composition may comprise a total, amount of direct dyes ranging
from about 0.05%
to about 4%, by weight of the total on-head composition.
Suitable direct dyes include. but are not limited to: Acid dyes such as Acid
Yellow I, Acid
Orange 3, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Yellow
23, Acid
Blue 9, Acid Violet 43, HC Blue 16, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 25, Acid Red 4;
Basic Dyes such
as Basic Brown 17, Basic Red 118, Basic Orange 69, Basic Red 76, Basic Brown
16, Basic
Yellow 57, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Red 2, Basic
Blue 99, Basic
Yellow 29, Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Basic Yellow 87, 4-(3-(4-amino-9,10-
dioxo-9,I0-
dihydroanthracen-I -ylamino)propyl)-4-methylmorpholin-4-ium-methylsulfate, (s)-
I-(2-(4-(4,5-
dinietliylthiazol-2-yl)diazenyl)phenyl)(ethyl)amino)ethyl)-3-methyl-lH-
irnidazol-3-ium chloride,
(E)-4-(2-(4-(diinetltylaniino)pheny1)diazenyl)-I-methyl-IH-imidazol-3-ium-3
yl)butane-l-
sulfonate, (E)-4-(4-(2-methyl-2-phenylhydrazono)methyl)pyridi.niui-i-1-
yl)butane-l-sulfonate,
N,N -dinicthyl-3-(4-(tnethylatxtino)-9,10-dioxo-4a,9,9a,10-tetr
ahydroanthracen- I-ylamino)-N-
propylpropan-l-aminium bromide; Disperse Dyes such as Disperse Red 17,
Disperse Violet 1,
Disperse Red 15, Disperse Black 9, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Blue 23, Disperse
Blue 377; Nitro
Dyes such as 1-(2-(4-nitrophenylamino)ethyl)urea, 2-(4-methyl-2-
nitrophenylamnino)ethanol, 4-
nitrobenzene-1,2-diamine, 2-nitrobenzene-1,4-diamine, Picramtiic acid, HC Red
No. 13, 2,2'-(2-
nitro-1,4-phenylcnc)bis(azanediyl)diethanol, IIC Yellow No. 5, FTC Red No. 7,
FTC Blue No.2,
FTC Yellow No. 4, FTC Yellow No. 2, HC Orange No. 1, HC Red No. 1, 2-(4-airino-
2-chloro-5
nitrophenylamino)ethanol, HC Red No. 3, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4-(2-
hydroxyethylamino)-3-
nitrophenol, 2-amigo;-3-nitrophenol, 2-(3-(methylaniino)-4-
nitrophenoxy)ethanol, 3-(3-amino-4-
nitrophenol)propane-1,2-diiol, EIC Yellow No. 11, HC Violet No. 1, [TC Orange
No. 2, HC
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
9
Orange No. 3, HC Yellow No. 9, HC Red No. 10, HC Red No. 11, 2-(2-
hydroxyethylaraino)-4,6-
dinitrophenol, 1-IC Blue No. 11. 2, HC Yellow No. 6, HC Yellow No. 12, HC Blue
No. 10, HC
Yellow No. 7, HC Yellow No. 10, HC Blue No. 9, 2-chloro-6-(ethylaniino)-4-
nitrophenol, 6-
nitropyridine-2,5-diamine, 1-IC Violet No. 2, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol,
4-(3-
hydroxypropylamino)-3-nitrophei ol, HC Yellow No. 13, 6-nitro-l,2,3,4-
tetrahydroquinoxaline,
HC Red No. 14, HC Yellow No. 15, HC Yellow No. 14, N2-methyl-6-nitropyridine-
2,5-diamine.
N1-all yi-2-nitrobenzene-l,4-dianine, HC Red No. 8. HC Green No.1, HC Blue No.
14; Natural
dyes such as Annato, Anthocyanin, Beetroot, Carotene, Capsanthin, Lycopene,
Chlorophyll,
Henna. Indigo, Cochineal; and mixtures thereof
When the composition is obtained by mixing a tint (solid) composition and a
developer (solid)
composition, the direct dyes are usually incorporated into the tint
composition, particularly into a
tint solid composition according to the present invention.
Chelants
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise
chelants (also known
as "chelating agent", "sequestering agent", or "sequestrant") in an amount
sufficient to reduce the
amount of metals available to interact with formulation components,
particularly oxidizing
agents, more particularly peroxides. Chelants are well known in the art and a
non-exhaustive list
thereof can be found in AB Martell & RIM Smith, Critical Stability Constants,
Vol. 1, Plenum
Press, New York & London (1974) and AE Martell & RD Hancock, Metal Complexes
in
Aqueous Solution, Plenum Press, New York & London (1996), both incorporated
herein by
reference.
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of chelants of no more than
about 5% by
weight of the total composition. Typically, the on-head composition may eon-
ipe ise a total amount
of chelants ranging from at least about 0,01%, alternatively from about 0.01%o
to about 5%,
alternatively from about 0.25% to about 3%. alternatively from about 0.5% to
about 1%, by
weight of the total en-head composition.
Suitable chelants include, but are not limited to: carboxylic acids (such as
anzinocarboxylic
acids), phosphoric acids (such as aminophosphonic acids), polyphosphoric acids
(such as linear
polyphosphoric acids), their salts thereof, and mixtures thereof By "salts
thereof', it is meant -
in the context of chelants -- all salts comprising the same functional
structure as the chelant they
are referring to and including alkali metal salts, alkaline earth salts,
ammonium salts, substituted
ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, alternatively sodium salts, potassium
salts, ammonium
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
salts, and mixtures thereof; alternatively monoethanolammonium salts,
dieethanolaIm oniurn
salts, triethanolamrnoniuiri salts, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelants comprise at least one carboxylic acid
moiety (-COOH)
and at least one nitrogen atom. Suitable aminocarboxylic acid chelants
include, but are not
5 limited to: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTTPA), ethylenediamine
disuccinic acid
(EDDS), ethylenediamine diglutaric acid (EDGA), 2-hydroxypropylenediarine
disuccinic acid
(HPDS), glycinaniide-,.NN'-distic.cinic acid (GADS), ethylenediamine-N-N -
diglutaric acid
(EDDG), 2-hydroxy propylenediamine-N-N'-disuccinic acid (H DDS),
ethylenedianiinetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenedicysteic acid (EDC),
ethylenediainine-N-N'-
10 bis(ortho-hydroxyphenyà acetic acid) (EDDH A), diaminoalkyldi(sulfasuccinic
acids) (DDS),
N,NN-bis(2-h),droxybenzyl)ethy':eredianiine-N,N'-diacetic acid (HEED), their
salts thereof, and
mixtures thereof. Other suitable aminocarboxylic type chelants include, but
are not limited to:
iminodiacetic acid derivatives such as N-2-hydroxyethyl N,N diacetic acid or
glycerol imino
diacetic acid, iiniliodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and
aspartic acid N-
carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid, 3-alanine-N,N'-di acetic
acid, aspartic acid-
N,N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-rnonoacetic acid and iminodisuccinic acid
chelants.
ethanoldiglycine acid, their salts thereof, their derivatives thereof, and
mixtures thereof Further
suitable aininocarboxylic type chelants include, but are not limited to:
dipicolinic acid, 2-
phosphonobutarie-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid, their salts thereof their
derivatives thereof, and
mixtures thereof.
Suitable arninophosphonic acid chelants comprise an aminophosphonic acid
moiety (- P03H2) or
its derivative - P03R2, wherein R2 is a C, to C6 alkyl or aryl radical and
salts thereof. Suitable
afninophosphonic acid chelants include, but are not limited to: aminotri-(l-
ethylphosphonic
acid), ethylene-diaminetetra-(I-ethyiphosphonic acid), aminotri-(I-
propylphosphonic acid),
aminotri-(isopropylphosphonic acid), their salts thereof, and mixtures
thereof; alternatively
arinotri-(metliylenephosphonic acid), ethylene-diemine-tetra-
(methylenepliosphonic acid)
(EDTMP) and diethylene-triginnine-penta-(methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP),
their salts
thereof, their derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable alternative chelants include, but are not limited to:
polyethyleneimincs, polyphosphoric
acid chelants, etidronic acid, methylglycine diacetic acid, N-(2-
hydroxyethyl)iminodiacetic acid,
minodisuccinnic acid, N,N-Dicarboxymetliyl-L-glutanlic acid, N-lauroyl-N,N',N"-
ethylenediamine diacetic acid, their salts thereof, their derivatives thereof,
and mixtures thereof.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
It
In a specific embodiment, the composition comprises a chelant selected from
the group
consisting of diethylenetriamine-N,N',N"-polyacids,
diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA),
dietlhylenetriarrninepenta(m.ethylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), diarnine-N,N'-
dipolyacid,
monoamine monoamidc-N,N'-dipolyacid, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid (EDDS),
their salts
thereof, their derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof; alternatively
ethylenediaminedisuccinic
acid (EDDS).
When the composition of the invention is obtained by mixing a tint (solid)
composition and a
(solid) developer composition, the chelants may be incorporated in the tint
(solid) composition
and/or in the developer (solid) composition. A chelant is usually present in
the developer (solid)
composition for stability reason.
Radical scavengers
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a
radical scavenger. As
used herein the term "radical scavenger" refers to a species that can react
with a radical,
preferably a carbonate radical to convert the r adical species by a series of
fast reactions to a less
reactive species. In one embodiment, the radical scavenger is different from
the alkalising agent
and/or is present in an amount sufficient to reduce the damage to the hair
during the colouring
/bleaching process.
Typically, the on-head composition may comprise a total amount of radical
scavengers ranging
from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about l.% by weight to about
7%, by weight of
the total on-head composition.
Suitable radical scavengers include, but are not limited to: alkanolamines,
amino sugars, amino
acids, esters of amino acids, and mixtures thereof; alternatively 3-amino-l-
propanol, 4-amino-1-
butanol, 5-amino-1 -pentanol, I-amino-2-propanol, I-amino-2-butanol, I-amino-2-
pentanol, 1-
amino-3-pentanol, l-amino-4-pentanol, 3-amino-2-methylpropa:n-1-ol, I-amino-2-
rnethylpropan-
2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, glucosainine, N-acetylglucosainine, glycine,
arginine, lysine,
proline, glutaminc, histidine, sarcosine, seriee, glutamic acid, tryptophan,
their salts thereof, and
mixtures thereof, alternatively glycine, sarcosine, lysine, serine, 2
methoxyethylamine,
glucosamine, glutamic acid, morpholine, piperdine, ethylamine, 3 amino- l-
propanol, and
mixtures thereof. As used herein, the term "salts thereof' - in the context of
radical scavengers ---
means particularly potassium salts, sodium salts, ammonium salts, and mixtures
thereof.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
12
pH Modifiers and buffering agents
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise, in
addition to the
alkalizing agent discussed above, a pH modifier and/or buffering agent in an
amount that is
sufficiently effective to adjust the pH of the composition to fall within a
range from about. 3 to
about 13, alternatively from about 8 to about 12, alternatively from about 9
to about 11.
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of pH. modifiers and/or
buffering agents of
no more than about 5% by weight of the total composition.
Suitable pH modifiers and/or buffering agents include, but are not limited to,
ammonia;
alkanolarides (such as monoethanolan.ine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine,
monopropanolamine, dipopanolamine, tripropanolamine, tripropanolamine, 2-amino-
2-methyl-
.
2-aixiino='-hydi'oxyn).ethyl-1,3,-propandiol); guanidiur salts; alkali metal
and
ammonium hydroxides and carbonates; and mixtures thereof
Further pH modifiers and/or buffering agents include, but are not limited to:
sodium hydroxide;
ammonium carbonate; acidulents (such as inorganic and inorganic acids
including for example
phosphoric acid, acetic acid, ascorbic acid, citric acid or tartaric acid,
hydrochloric acid); and
mixtures thereof,
Thickeners and/or rheology modifiers
The composition according to the invention may further comprise a thickener in
all amount
sufficient to provide the composition with a viscosity so that it can be
readily applied to the hair
without unduly dripping off the hair and causing mess.
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of thickeners of no more
than about 80%,
alternatively no more than about 50%, alternatively no more than about 20%,
alternatively no
more than 10%, by weight of the total composition. Typically, the composition
may comprise a
total amount of thickeners ranging from at least about 0.1%, alternatively at
least about 0.5%,
alternatively at least about 1%, by weight of the total composition,
Suitable thickeners include, but are not limited to: associative polymers,
polysaccharides, non-
associative polycarboxylic polymers, and mixtures thereof.
As used herein, the expression "associative polymers" means amphiphilic
polymers comprising
both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, at least one CS to
C30 fatty chain and
at least one hydrophilic unit. Associative polymers are capable of reversibly
combining with each
other or with other molecules, Suitable associative thickeners include, but
are not limited to:
nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at
least one fatty-
chain unit; anionic arnphiphiliic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
13
fatty-chain unit; cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one
hydrophilic unit and at
least one fatty-chain unit; and amphoteric amphiphilic polymers comprising at
least one
hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain unit, and mixtures thereof.
Suitable nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and
at least one
hydrophilic unit include, but are not limited to: celluloses modified with
groups comprising at
least one fatty chain (such as hydroxyethyleeliuloses modified with groups
comprising at least
one fatty chain chosen from alkyl, alkenyl and alkylaryl groups);
hydroxypropyl guars modified
with groups comprising at least one fatty chain; polyether urethanes
comprising at least one fatty
chain (such as C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl groups); copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone
and of fatty-
chain hydrophobic monomers; copolymers of Cl.-C6 alkyl acrylates or
methacrylates and of
amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain; copolymers of
hydrophilic acrylates
or methacrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty
chain, and mixtures
thereof
Suitable nonionic amphiphilie polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least one
fatty-chain unit include, but are not limited to: those polymers comprising at
least one fatty-chain
ally] ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit comprising an ethylenic
unsaturated anionic
monomeric unit (such as a vinylcarboxylic acid unit, particularly a unit
chosen from units derived
from acrylic acids, methacrylic acids, and mixtures thereof), wherein the
fatty-chain allyl ether
unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (1) below
CH2=C(Rl )C1-T2OBnR (1)
in which RI is chosen from H and CH3, B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is chosen
from zero and
integers ranging from l to 100, R is chosen frori hydrocarbon-based radicals
chosen from alkyl,
alkenyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylai v-l and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from
8 to 30 carbon atoms,
and, further, for example, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even further, for
example, f5rom 12 to
18 carbon atoms.
Suitable anionic amphiphilic polymers include, but are not limited to: those
polymers comprising
at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type,
and at least one
hydrophobic unit of the type such as a (C8-C30) alkyl ester or (C8-C30)
oxyethylenated alkyl
ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid, wherein the hydrophilic unit of
unsaturated olefinic
carboxylic acid type corresponds to, for example, the monomer of formula (11)
below
C1-12=C(R l )COON (11)
in which Ri is chosen: from 1.1, CH3, C2H5 and CH2COOH (i.e. acrylic acid,
methaerylic,
ethacrylic and itaconic acid units); and wherein the hydrophobic unit of the
type such as a (C8
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
14
C30) alkyl ester or (C8-C30) oxyethylenated alkyl ester of an unsaturated
carboxylic acid
corresponds to, for example, the monomer of formula (111) below
C42-C(Rl)COOBnR2 (Iii)
in which HI is chosen from H, CH3, C2H5 and CH2COOH. (i.e. aerylate,
methacrylate
ethacrylate and itacoriate units), B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is chosen
from zero and integers
ranging from I to 100, R2 is chosen from C8-C30 alkyl radicals, for example,
C12-C22 alkyl
radical. Anionic amphiphilic polymers may further be cross-linked. The
crosslinking agent can
be a monomer comprising a group (IV) below
CH2=C< (IV)
with at least one other polyrnerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not
conjugated with
respect to one another. Mention may be made, for example, of polyallyl ethers
such as
polyallylsucrose and polyallyl pentaerythritol.
Suitable cationic amphiphilic polymers include, but are not limited to.
quaternized cellulose
derivatives and polyacrylates comprising amino side groups. The quaternized
cellulose
derivatives are, for example, chosen from quaternized celluloses modified with
groups
comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl
groups comprising at
least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses
modified with
groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl and
alkylaryl groups
comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof The alkyl radicals
borne by the above
quaternized celluloses and hydroxycthyleelluloses, for example, contain from 8
to 30 carbon
atoms. The aryl radicals, for example, are chosen from phenyl, bcnzyl,
riaphthyl and anthryl
groups.
Suitable amphoteric ar phiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic
unit and at least
one fatty-chain unit, may be made, for example, of
niethacrylaniidopropyltrinaetllylarnrrronitum
chloride/acrylic acid/C8-C30 alkyl methacrylate copolymers, wherein the alkyl
radical is, for
example, a stearyl radical.
Preferred associative polymers comprise at least one hydrophilic unit which is
unsaturated
carboxylic acid or its derivatives, and at least one hydrophobic unit which is
a C8 to C30 alkyl
ester or oxyethylenated C8-C30 alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid.
'I'he unsaturated
carboxylic acid is preferably acrylic acid, methacrylie acid or itaconic acid.
Commercially
available materials include those sold as Aculy-22 by Rohn & Haas; Permulen
TRI, Carbopol
2020, Carbopol Ultrez-21 by Noveon, Structure 2001/3001 by National Starch.
Other preferred
associative polymers include polyether polyurethane, commercially available as
Aculyn-44/-46
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
by Rohrn and Haas. Further preferred associative polymers include cellulose
modified with
groups comprising at least one C8 -- C30 fatty chain, commercially available
under the trade
name Natrosol. Plus Grade 330 CS by Aqualon.
Suitable non-associative cross-linked polycarboxylic polymers include, but are
not limited to:
5 cross-linked acrylic acid homopolymers, copolymers of acrylic or
(meth)acrylic acid and of Ci-
f:6 alkyl acrylate or (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof. Commercially
available materials
include those sold as Carbopol 980!981/954/2984/5984 by Noveon, Synthalen
.M!Synthalen
LISynthalen K by 3V Sigma, Aculyn-33 by Rohm and Haas.
Suitable polysaccharides include, but are not limited to: glucans, modified
and unmodified
10 starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance
wheat, corn or rice, from
vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or
cassaya), amylose,
amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof
(methyleelluloses.
hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, and
carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans,
xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans,
glucuronoxylans,
15 arabinoxylans, xylogiucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic
acid and alginates,
arabinogalac tans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, guns
tragacanths, ghatti
gums, karaya gums, carob gurus, galactornannans, such as guar gums, and
nonionic derivatives
thereof (hydroxypropyl guar) and bio-polysaccharides, such as xanthan gums;
gellan gums,
welan gums, scleroglucan r, succinoglycans, and mixtures thereof. Suitable
polysaccharides are
described in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", Kirk-Othmer, Third
Edition, 1982,
volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in "Polymers in Nature" by
E. A.
MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp.
2140-
328,1980, and in "Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives",
edited by Roy L.
Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc., all three being
incorporated herein
by reference. A preferred polysaccharide is a bio-polysaccharide, particularly
bio-
polysaccharides selected from xanthan gum, gellan gum, welan gum, scleroglucan
or
succirnoglycan; commercially available as Keltrol T by Kelco and Rheozan by
Rhodia
Chimie. Another preferred polysaccharide is hydroxypropyl starch derivative,
particularly
hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, commercially available as Structure XL by
National Starch.
Commercially available salt-tolerant thickeners include, but not limited to:
xanthan, guar,
hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose
(commercially available as
Aquacote), hydroxyethyl cellulose (Natrosol), carboxymethyl cellulose,
hydroxypropylmethyl
cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydrSoxybutylmethyl cellulose,
hydroxypropyl cellulose
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
16
(Klucel), hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (Natrosof
Plus 330), N-
vinylpyrollidone (I'ovidone), Acrylates/Cetethn20 Itaconate Copolymer
(Structure 3001),
hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure ZEA), polyethoxylated urethanes or
polycarbamyl
polyglycol ester such as PEG- 150.Decyl/S''YIDI copolymer (Aculyn 44), PEG- I
S0/Stearyl/ sNMD1
copolymer (Aculyn 46), trihydroxystearin (Thixcin), acrylates copolymer
(Aculyn 33) or
hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers (such as Acrylates / Steareth-20
Methacrylate
Copolymer as Aculyn 22), acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer
(Aculyn. 88),
acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer (Aculyn 38), acrylates/beheneth-25
methacrylate
copolymer (Aculyn 28), acrylates/Cl0-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer (Carbopol
ETD 2020),
non-ionic anmphophilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at
least one hydrophilic
unit selected from polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain,
blends of Ceteth - 10
phosphate, Di-cetyl phosphate and Cetearyl alcohol (available as Crodafos
CES), and mixtures
thereof.
Carbonate ion sources
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a
source of carbonate
ions, carbanate ions, hydrogen carbonate ions, and mixtures thereof in a
sufficient amount to
reduce damage to the hair during the coloring process.
Typically, the on-head composition may comprise a total amount of a carbonate
ion source
ranging from about 0.1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about
10%,
alternatively from about I% to about 7%, by weight of the total on-head
composition.
Suitable carbonate ion sources include, but are not limited to: sodium
carbonate, sodium
hydrogen carbonate, potassium carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate,
guanidine carbonate,
guanidine hydrogen carbonate, lithium carbonate, calcium carbonate, magnesium
carbonate,
barium carbonate, ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate and mixtures
thereof;
alternatively sodium hydrogen carbonate, potassium hydrogen carbonate, and
mixtures thereof,
alternatively ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, and mixtures
thereof.
Conditioning agents
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a
conditioning agent,
and/or be used in combination with a composition comprising a conditioning
agent,
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of conditioning agents of no
more than about
5% by weight of the total composition. Typically, the on-head composition may
comprise a total
amount of conditioning agents ranging from about 0.05% to about 20%,
alternatively from about
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
17
0.1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.2% to about 10%, alternatively
from about 0.2%
to about 2%, alternatively from about 0.5% to 2%, by weight of the total on-
head composition.
The conditioning agent may be incorporated in the solid composition, and/or in
a separate pre-
and/or post-treatment composition.
Suitable conditioning agents include, but are not limited to: silicones,
aminosilicones, fatt-,
alcohols, polymeric resins, polyol carboxylic acid esters, cationic: polymers,
cationic surfactants,
insoluble oils and oil derived materials and mixtures thereof. Additional
conditioning agents
include mineral oils and other oils such as glycerin and sorbitol.
Particularly useful conditioning materials are cationic polymers. Conditioners
of cationic
polymer type can be chosen from those comprising units of at least one amine
group chosen from
primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary airline groups that may either
form part of the rnain
polymer drain, or be borne by a side substituent that is directly attached to
the main polymer
chain, described hereinafter.
Suitable silicones include, but are not limited to: polyalkylsiloxane oils,
linear
polydimethylsiloxane oils containing trirnethyisilyl or
hydroxydinietliylsiloxane endgroups,
polynnethylphenylsiloxane, polydimethylphenylsiloxane or
polydimethyldiphenytsiloxane oils,
silicone resins, organofunctional siloxanes having in their general structure
one or a number of
organofunctional group(s), the same or different, attached directly to the
sildxane chain and
mixtures thereof. Said organofunctional group(s) may be selected from:
polyethyleneoxy and/or
polypropyleneoxy groups, (per)tluorinated groups, thiol groups, substituted or
unsubstituted
amino groups, carboxylate groups, hydroxylated groups, alkoxylated groups,
quaternium
ammonium groups, amphoteric and betainc groups. The silicone can either be
used as a neat
fluid or in the form of a pre-formed emulsion. Suitable silicones also
include: silicones
containing groups that may be ionized into cationic groups, for example
arninosilicones
containing at least 10 repeating siloxarre (Si(CH3)2 -O) units within the
polymer chain, with either
terminal, graft, or a mixture of terminal and graft aminofunetional groups.
Example functional
groups are not limited to am inoethylaminopropyl, aminoethylaminoisobutly,
aminopropyl. In the
case of graft polymers, the terminal siloxane units can be (CH 3)l-.Si-0,
R,2(CH3)2Si C, where R12
can be either OH or OR13, where R13 is a C l-C:8 alkyl group, or a mixture of
both terminal
groups. These silicones are also available as preformed emulsions.
Commercially available
aininosilicones include those sold as l)C-2-8566, DC 7224, DC-2-5220 by Dow
Corning;
SF1708, SM2125 by GE Silicones; Wacker Belsil ADM 653/ADM 1100/ADM 1600/ADM
652/ADM 6057E/ADM 8020 by Wacker Silicones; DC929, DC939, DC949 by Dow Coming;
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
18
SM2059 by GE Silicones. Suitable aminosilicones may also contain additional
functional groups,
particularly additional functional groups including polyoxyalkylene, the
reaction product of
amines and carbinols, and alley chains. Commercially available materials are
known as methoxy
PEG/I'PG-7/3 Aminopropyl Dimethicone (e.g. Abil Soft AFIOO, by Degussa), or as
Bis(C13-15
Alkoxy)PG Amodimethicone (e.g. DC 8500, by Dow Corning).
Suitable cationic polymers include, but are not limited to, polymers
comprising units of at least
one amine group chosen from primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine
groups that may
either form part of the main polymer chain or be borne by a side substituent
that is directly
attached to the main polymer chain. Such cationic polymers generally have a
number average
molecular mass ranging from about 50t) to about 5 x 10 , alternatively from
about 1000 to about
3 x 106. Preferably the cationic polymers are selected from polymers of the
polyamine,
polyamino amide and polyquaternary ammonium type.
Suitable polymers of the polyamine, polyamino amide and polyquaternary
ammonium type
include, but are not limited to:
1) Hornopolymers and copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or
amides.
Copolymers of these polymers may also comprise at least one unit derived from
comonomers
which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylar-nides,
diacetone acylumnides,
acrylamides and methacrylicanaides substituted on the nitrogen with at least
one group chosen
from lower (C I -C4) alkyls, acrylic and methacrylic acids and esters thereof,
vinlylactams such as
vinlypyrrolidone and vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters. Suitable examples
include copolymers
of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrirnethylammoniu.m methosulfate,
including
polymers known as Polyquatemium-5 (e.g. commercially available under the trade
name Reten
210/220/2311/240/1104/1105/1006 by Hercules; Merquat 5/5 SF by Nalco);
copolymers of
vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide, including polymers
known as
Polyquaternium.28 (e.g. Gafquat .HS-100 by ISP); coplolymers of vinyl
pyrrolidone and
dialkyaminoalkyl acrylates or methactylates, including polymers known as
Polquaternium-11
(see Gafquat 440;734/755/75511 by ISP; Luviquat PQI I PM by BASF; 13olyquat-i
1 SL by Sino
Lion); copolymers vinylpyrrolidone, dirnethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and
nrethacryloylarninopropyl lauryldimonium chloride, including polymers known as
polyquaternium-55 (e.g. Styleze W-20 by ISP); copolymers of acrylic acid,
acrylamide and
methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, including polymers known as
Po!yquaternium-53
(e.g. Merquat 2003 by Nalco); copolymers of dimethyaminopropylacrylaic
(T)MAPA), acrylic
acid and acrylonitrogens and diethyl sulphate, including polymers known as
Polyquaternium-31
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
19
(e.g. Hypan QT100 by Lipo); copolymers of acrylamidc. acrylain
idopropyltrironium chloride,
2-am.idopropylacrylamide sulfonate, and di rethvamir~o ropylacrylate (DMAPA),
including
polymers known as polyquatemiunr-43 (e.g. Bozequat 4000 by Clairant);
copolymers of acrylic
acid, methylacrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, including
polymers known)
as Polyquaternium-47 (e.g. Merquat 2001/200IN by Nalco); copolymers of
methactyloyl ethyl
betaine, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate and methacryloyl ethyl trirnethyl
ammonium chloride,
including polymers known as Polyquaternium-48 (e.g. Plascize L-450 by Goo
Chemical);
copolymers of acrylic acid diallyl dimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide,
including
polymers known as poiyquaternium-39 (e.g. Merquat 3330/3331 by. Nalco).
Further suitable
examples include copolymers of methacrylamide methacrylamido-propyltrimoniumn
and
methacryloylethyltrimethyi ammonium chloride and their derivatives, either
honno or
copolyancrised with other monomers, including polymers known as Po"tyquatern
unt-3,
Polyquaternium-9, Polyquaterniurn-12, Polyquaternium-13 Polyquaternium-14,
Polyquaterniurn-
(e.g. Rohagit KF 720 F by Rohm), Polyquatemium-30 (e.g. Mexomere PX by
Chimex),
15 Polyquaternium-33, Polyquate nium-35, Polyquaterniurn-36 (e.g. flex 3074 L
by Rhon),
Polyquaterniuni 45 (e.g. Plex 3073L by Rohn), Polyquaternium 49 (e.g. Plascize
L-440 by Goo
Chemicals), Polyquaternium 50 (e.g. Plascize L-441 by Goo Chemicals),
Polyquaternium-52.
2) Cationic polysaccharides, such as cationic celluloses and cationic
galactomannan gums.
Among the cationic polysaccharides that maybe mentioned, for example, are
cellulose ether
derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups and cationic cellulose
copolymers or
cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer
and cationic
galactomannan gums. Suitable examples include copolymers of
hydroxyethylcelhuloses and
diallyldimethyl ammonium chlorides, including polymers known as Polyquaternium-
4 (e.g.
Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch); copolymers of hydroxveth
ylcelluloses and
a tritrmethyl ammonium substituted epoxide, including polymers known as
Polyquaternium-10
(e.g. AEC Polyquaternium-10 by A&E Connock; Catinal C-l00/HC-35/HC-1.00/;HC'.-
200/LC-
100/LC-200 by Toho; Celquat SC-240C/SC-230M by National Starch; Dekaquat
400/3000 by
Dekker; Leogard GP by Akzo Nobel; RITA Polyquat 400/3000 by RITA; UCARE
Polymer JR-
125/ JR-400/3R-30M/LKJLR 400/LR 30M by Amerchol); copolymers of
hydroxyethylcclluloscs
and lauryl dimethyl ammonium substituted epoxides, including polymers known as
Polyquaternium-24 (e.g. Quatrisoft polymer LM-200 by Amerchol); derivatives of
hydroxypropyl guar, including polymers as guar hydroxypropyltrimoniuan
chloride (e.g. Catinal
CG-100, Catinal CG-200 by Toho; Cosmedia Guar C-261N, Cosmedia Guar C-261N,
Cosrnedia
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
Guar C-261N by Cognis; DiaGum P 5070 by Freedom Chemical Diarnalt; N-Hance
Cationic
Guar by l-lercules/Aqualon; Hi-Care 1000, Jaguar C-17, Jaguar C-2000, Jaguar C-
13S, Jaguar C-
14S, Jaguar Excel by Rhodia; Kiprogum CW, Kiprogum NGK by Nippon Starch);
hydroxypropyl derivatives of guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, including
polymers known
5 as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (e.g. Jaguar C-16/2 by
Rhodia).
3) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation ofpolyalkylene
polyamines with
polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difrrnctional agents. Among
the derivative,
mention may be made for example to adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl
diethvlenetriamine.
10 4) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyarnine comprising
two primary amines
groups and at last one secondary amine group with a decarboxylic acid chosen
from diglycolic
acids and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids comprising from 3 to 8 carbon
atoms. Suitable
examples include the polymer adipic acid / epxoypropyl / diethylenetriatnir e.
5) Cyclopolymers of dialkdiallylamine or of dialkyldiallyammonium, including:
15 Dirnethyldiallyammonium chloride polymers, including polymers known as
Polyquaternium-6
(e.g. Merquat 100 by Nalco; Mirapol 100 by Rhodia; Rheocare CC6 by Cosmetic
Rheologies;
AEC polyquaternium-6 by A&E Connock; Agequat 400 by CPS; Conditioner P6 by 3V
Inc.;
Flocare C106 by SNE; Genarnin PDAC by Clariant; Mackernium 006 by McIntyre);
copolymers
of acrylamides and dimethyldiallylanmrnonium chlorides inonorners, including
polymers known
20 as Polyquaterniunt-7 (e.g. AEC Polyquaternium-7 by A&.E Connock; Agequat-
5008/C-505 by
CPS; Conditioner P7 by 3V Inc.; Flocare C 1.07 by SNF; Mackernium 007/0075 by
McIntyre
ME Polymer 09W by Toho; Merquat 550/2200/S by Nalco; Mirapol 550 by Rhodia;
Rheocare
CC7/CCP7 by Cosmetic Rheologies; Salcare HSP-7/SCIO/ Super 7 by Ciba);
copolymers of
dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorides and acrylic acids, including polymers known
as
polyquaternary-22 (e.g. Merquat 280/'vlerquat 295 by Nalco).
6) Quaternary diammoniurn polymers comprising repeat units corresponding to [-
N+(RI))(R2) -
Al - N+(R3)(R4) - B I -] [2X-], in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, which may be
identical or
different, are chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and arylaliphatic radicals
comprising from I to 20
carbon atoms and from lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or Rl, R2, R3 and
R4, together or
separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached,
heterocycles optionally
comprising a second heteroatom other then nitrogen, or RI, R2, R3 and R4, are
chosen from liner
or branched CI-C6 alkyl radicals substituted with at least one group chosen
from nitrile, ester,
acyl and amide groups and groups of - CO---G--R5 -D and -CO-NH --R5---D
wherein R5 is chosen
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
21
from aikylene groups and D is chosen from quaternary ammonium groups. Al and
Bl, which
may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched, saturated
or unsaturated
polymethylene groups comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, The polymethylene groups
may
comprise, linked to or intercalated in the main ring, at least one entity
chosen from aromatic
rings, oxygen and sulphur atoms and sulphoxide, sulphone, disulphide, amino,
alkylaraino,
hydroxyl, quaternary, ammonium, ureido, amide and ester groups, and X- is an
anion derived
from inorganic and organic acids. D is chosen from a glycol residue, a his-
secondary diarine
residue, a bis-primary diainine residue or a ureylene group. Suitable examples
include polymers
known as Hexadimethrine chloride, where R1, 2, R3 and R4 are each methyl
radicals, A! is
(Cl42)3 and RRl is (CIl2)6 and X = Cl; as polyquaterniurn-34 where Rland R2
are ethyl radicals
and R3 and R4 are methyl radicals and Al is (CH2)3 and B1 is (CH2)3 and X = Br
(e.g.
Mexoniere PAX by Chinaax).
7) Poiyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula [ N-
r-(R6)(R7)--
(C I12)r-NH-CQ-(CH2)q---{CO)t-NH-(CH2)s--TAT+(R8)(R9 --?.--JL2X-j, in which
R6, R7, R8 and
R9 which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom and a
methyl, ethyl,
propyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, and --- CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radicals,
wherein p is
equal to 0 or an integer ranging from I to 6, wherein R6, R7, R8 and R9 do not
all
simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom. R. and s which maybe identical or
different are each
an integer ranging from I to 6, q is equal to 0 or an integer ranging from I
to 34 and X- is anion
such as a halide. T is an integer chosen to be equal to 0 or 1. A is chosen
from divalent radicals
such as -CH2--CH2-O-CH2-CH2-. Suitable examples include: polymers known as
polyqua.terniurn-2, where r =s=-3, q =0,t=0, R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl
groups, and A is -CH2-
CI12.--0---CH2-CH2 (e.g. Ethpol PQ-2 from Ethox; Mirapol A-15 by Rhodia); as
polyquaternium-
17 where r=s-3, q=4, t=1 R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl groups, and A is -CH2-CI-
12--O-CH2-
CH2; as Polyquatemium 18, where r=s--3, q=7, t-1 R6, R7, R8 and R9 are methyl
groups, and A
is -CH2--CH2-O-CH2-CH2; as the block copolymer formed by the reaction of
Polyquaternium-
2 with Polyquaternium-17, which are known as Polyquatemium 27 (e.g. Mirapol
175 by Rhodia).
8) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidones and of vinylirnidazoles and optionally v
nylcaprolactums,
including polymers known as Polyquaternary-16 formed from
methylvinylimidazolium chlorides
and vinylpyrrolidones (e.g, Luviquat FC370i/FC550/FC905fHM-552 by BASF);
copolymers of
vinylcaprolactams and vinylpyrrolidones with rnethylvinyli.rnidazolium
methosultates including
polymers 'Known as Polyquaternium-46 (e.g. Luviquat Hold by BASF); copolymers
of
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
22
vinylpyrrolidones and quaternized imidazolines, including polymers known as
polyquatemary 44
(e.g. Luviquat Care by BASF).
9) Polyainines such as Polyquart 1-1 sold by Cognis under the reference name
polyethylene glycol
(15) tallow polyamine,
10,) Cross linked methacryloyloxy(C I -C4)alkyltri(C 1-C4)aikylammonium salt.
polymers such as
the polymers obtained by homopolymerisation of dimethylaininoethyl
methacrylates quaternized
with methyl chloride, or by copolymerisation of acrylamides with
diirtethylaminoethyl
rnethacrylates quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerisation
being followed by
crosslinkirig with a compound comprising olefinic unsaturation, such as
i-nethylenebisacrylamides, including polymers known as Polyquaterniuin-37
(e.g. Synthalen
CN/CR/CU sold by 3V sigma; or as a dispersion in another media such as Salcare
SC95/SC96 by
Ciba; Rheocare CTH(E) by Cosmetic Rheologies) and polymers known is
Polyquaternium-32
(e.g. sold as a dispersion in mineral oil such as Salcare SC92 by Ciba),
11) Further examples of cationic polymers include polymers known as
Polyquaternium 51 (e.g.
Lipidure-PMB by NOF), as Polyquaternium 54 (e.g. Qualty-Hy by Mitsui), as
Polyquaternium
56 (e.g. Hairrol UC-4 by Sanyo chemicals), as Polyquaternium 87 (e.g. Luviquat
sensation by
BASF).
12) Silicone polymers comprising cationic groups and/or groups which may be
ionised into
cationic groups. Suitable examples include cationic silicones of the general
formula (RIG-
N4-(C1-13)2)-R1 i--(Si(CH3)2-O)x--R11---(N+(CH3)2)--R10), where RIO is an
alkyl derived from
coconut oil, and Ri I is (CH2CHOCH2O(CH2)3 and x is a number between 20 and
2000,
including polymers known as Quaternium 80 (e.g. Ahil Quat 3272/3474 sold by
(3oldschrnidt);
silicones containing groups which may be ionised into cationic groups, for
example
aininosilicones containing at least 10 repeating siloxarie -(Si(CH3)2--0)
units within the polymer
chain, with either terminal., graft or a mixture of terminal and graft
aminofunctional groups.
Example functional groups are not limited to aminoethylaminopropyl,
aniinoethylaminoisobutiy,
aininopropyl. In the case of graft polymers, the terminal siloxane units can
either be (Ck13)3,Si-
0 or R12(CH3)2Si---O, where R12 can be either OH or OR13, where R13 is a C1-C8
alky group,
or a mixture of both functional terminal groups. These silicones are also
available as preformed
emulsions, Polymer with terminal siloxane units of (CH3)3Si-O examples
includes polymers
known as trimethylsilylamodimethicone (e.g. DC-2-8566, DC 7224, DC-2-8220 by
Dow
Corning; SF1708, SM 2125 GE Silicones; Wacker Belsil ADM 653 by Wacker
silicones).
Further examples include polymers with terminal siloxane units of
(R120)(CH3)2Si-0 where
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
23
R12 can be either OH or OR13, where R13 is a Cl-C8 ally group, or a mixture of
both
functional terminal groups, known as amodiinethicone (e.g. Wacker Belsil ADM
I100./ADM
1600/ADM 652/ADM 6O57FIADM 8020 by Wacker Silicones; DC929, DC939, DC949 by
Dow
Corning; SM2059 by GE silicones). Silicones containing groups which may be
ionised into
cationic groups - for example silicones containing at least 10 repeating
siloxane -(Si(CH3)2-O)
units within the polymer chain, with either terminal, graft or a mixture of
terminal and graft
aminofianctional groups, together with additional functional groups.
Additional functional
groups can include polyoxyalkylene, the reaction product of amines and
carbinols, alky chains.
For example products known as nicthoxy PEG/PPG-7/3 Atninopropyl Dimethicone
(e.g. Abil
Soft AFIOO by Degussa). For example products known as Bis (C13-15 Alkoxy) PG
Amodiinethicone (e.g. IBC 8500 by Dow Corning),
In a preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer is selected from the group
consisting of
polyquaternium 37, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 22, polyquaterniurn 87,
and mixtures
thereof; particularly from the group consisting of polyquaternium 37,
polyquaterniurn 212, and
mixtures thereof.
Surfactants
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a
surfactant. Suitable
surfactants generally have a Iipophilic chain length of from about 8 to about
30 carbon atoms and
can be selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric
surfactants, cationic
surfactants, and mixtures thereof.
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of conditioning agents of no
more than about
30% by weight of the total composition. Typically, the on-head composition may
comprise a
total amount of surfactants ranging from about 1 % to about 60%, alternatively
from about 2% to
about 30%, alternatively from about 8% to about 25%, alternatively from about
10% to about
20%, by weight of the total on-head composition.
The compositions may comprise a mixture of an anionic surfactant and an
amphoteric surfactant
with one or more nonionic surfactants. The composition may comprise a total
amount of anionic
surfactant ranging from about 0.1% to about 20%, alternatively from about 0.1%
to about 15%,
alternatively from about 5% to about 15%, by weight of the total composition;
and a total amount
of amphoteric and/or nonionic components, which may range independently from
each outer
from about 0.1% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 10%,
alternatively from
about 1% to about 8%, by weight of the total composition.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
24
Suitable anionic surfactants include, but are not limited to: salts (such as
alkaline salts, for
example, sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and
magnesium salts)
of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido
ether sulphates,
alkylarylpolyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkyl sulphonates,
alkyl phosphates,
alkylarnide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, mole in sulphonates, paraffin
sulphonates; alkyl
sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates;
alkyl
sulphosuccinamates; alkyl sulphoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates; aryl
sarcosinates; acyl
isethionates; N-aeyltaurates; and mixtures thereof. The alkyl or acyl radical
of all. of these various
compounds, for example, comprises from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and ttie atyl
radical, for example,
is chosen from phenyl and benzyl groups. Among the anionic surfactants, which
can also be
used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic,
ricinoleic, palnnitic
and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; aryl
lactylates in which the
aeyi radical comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. Weakly anionic surfactants
can also be used,
such as alkyl-D-galactosiduronic acids and their salts, as well as
polyoxyallvkylenated (C 6-C24)
alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6..024) alkylaryl ether
carboxylic acids,
polyoxy alkylenated (C6-C24) alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and their
salts, for example, those
comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof Anionic
derivatives of
polysacelrar ides, for example carboxyalkyl ether of alkyl polyglucosides, can
be also used.
Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known (see, for example, in
this respect
"Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow
and London),
1991, pp. 115-178). Suitable non-ionic surfactants include, but are not
limited to:
polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and polyglycerolated fatty acids, alkyl
phenols, a-diols and
alcohols comprising a fatty chain comprising, for example, from g to 18 carbon
atoms, it being
possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range,
for example, from
2 to 200 and for the number of glycerol groups to range, for example, from 2
to 30. Mention may
also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide,
condensates of ethylene
oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides
preferably having
from 2 to 30 mot of ethylene oxide and their momoethanolamine and
diethanolamine derivatives,
polyglycerolated fatty amides, for example, comprising on average from 1 to 5,
and such as from
1.5 to 4, glycerol groups; polyethoxylated fatty amines such as those
containing from 2 to 30 mot
of ethylene oxide; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 2
to 30 mot of
ethylene oxide; fatty acid esters of sucrose, fatty acid esters of
polyethylene glycol,
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucarnine derivatives, amine oxides such as (Ci0-
Ci4)alkylamine
oxides or N-acylaminopropylrmnorpholine oxides.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants include, but are not limited to: aliphatic
secondary and tertiary
amine derivatives in which the aliphatic radical is chosen from linear and
branched chains
5 comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and comprising at least one water-
soluble anionic group
(for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate);
mention may also be
made of (Cs-C20)alkylbetaines, sulphobetaines, (Cs-C,(,)alkylamido(C;-
CS)alkylbetaines or (C8-
C2o)alkylamido(C;-C6)aikylsuiphobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention
may be made
of the products sold as Miranol, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat. Nos.
2,52.8,378 and
10 2,781,354 and having the structures of: R2-CON fICI-12CI-I2--
N'~(R3)(R4)(Cft2COO ), (VI) in
which: R2 is chosen from alkyl radicals derived from an acid R2-COOH present
in hydrolysed
coconut oil, and heptyl, nonyl and undecyl radicals, R3 is a (3-hydroxyethyl
group and R4 is a
carboxymethyl group; and of R5-CONI-ICHI2CI-I2---N(B)(C) (VII) wherein B
represents ---
CH2CH2OX', C represents -(CH2)z-----`t', with z=1 or 2, X' is chosen from the -
-CH2CH2---
15 COOH group and a hydrogen atom, Y' is chosen from -:OOH and t f l OH-SO3H
radicals, Rs is chosen from alkyl radicals of an acid R5-COOH present in
coconut oil or in
hydrolysed linseed oil, alkyl radicals, such as C7, C9, C11 and C13 alkyl
radicals, a Ci7 alkyl radical
and its iso form, and unsaturated C17 radical, These compounds are classified
in the CTFA
dictionary, 5ii` edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate,
disodium
20 lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphoe.iacetate, disodium
capryloaitiphodi cetate,
disodiuni cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionatey disodium
caprylarnphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate,
lauroamphodipropionic acid,
and cocoainphodipropionic acid. Salts of diethyll arninopropyl cocoaspartarnid
can be also used.
Suitable cationic surfactants include, but are not limited to, the quaternary
ammonium salts A) to
25 D) as defined hereinafter:
A) Quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (VIII) below:
Rim lt'~
(VIII)
wherein X- is an anion chosen from halides (chloride, bromide and iodide), (C2-
C6)alkyl
sulphates, such as methyl sulphate, phosphates, alkyl and alkylaryl
sulihonates, and anions
derived from organic acids, such as acetate and lactate, and wherein R3 to R4
are as below in i) or
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
26
i) Radicals R, to R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear and branched
aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals
such as aryl and
alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may comprise at least one hetero atom such
as oxygen, nitrogen,
sulphur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen from: alkyl, alkoxy
and alkylamide
radicals. R; is chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals comprising from
16 to 30 carbon
atoms. A suitable cationic surfactant is, for example, a
behenyltrimethylammoniurn salt (for
example chloride),
ii) Radicals R: and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
linear and branched
aliphatic radicals comprising from I to 4 carbon atoms, and aromatic radicals
such as aryl and
alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may comprise at least one hetero atom such
as oxygen, nitrogen,
sulphur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals may be chosen from alkyl, alkoxy,
alkylaride and
hydroxyalkyl radicals comprising from about I to 4 carbon atoms, Radicals K3
and R , which
may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched alkyl
radicals comprising from
12 to 30 carbon atoms, the said alkyl radicals comprise at least one function
chosen from ester
and amide functions, R3 and R4 may be chosen from (C[2-C22)alk)ilamido(C2-
C6)aikyi and (C;2-
CL2) alkylacetate radicals. A suitable cationic surfactant is, for example, a
dicetyldimethyl
ammonium salt (for example chloride);
B) Quatemar-y ammonium salts of imidazolinium of formula (IX) below:
N N, F,
(IX)
in which R5 is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30
carbon atoms, for
example fatty, acid derivatives of tallow, R6 is chosen from a hydrogen atom,
C1-C4 alkyl radicals
and alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R7 is
chosen from C,-C4
alkyl radicals, R8 is chosen from a hydrogen atom and Ci-C4 alkyl radicals,
and X - is an anion
chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl
sulphonates and
alkylaryl sulphonates. In one embodiment, R5 and Rh are, for example, a
mixture of radicals
chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms,
such as fatty acid
derivatives of tallow, R7 is methyl and Rs is hydrogen. Such a product is, for
example,
Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) or Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), commercially available
as
"Reworluat(R" W75/W90/W75PGIW75HPG by Witco.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
27
C) Diquaternary ammonium salts of formula (X):
(X)
in which R9 is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from about 16 to 30
carbon atoms, Rio,
R, I, Rrz, Rr3 and R14, which may be identical or different, are chosen from
hydrogen and alkyl
radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atonrs, and X- is an anion chosen from
halides, acetates,
phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates. Such diquaternary ammonium salts,
for example,
include propanetallowdiantmonium dichloride,
D) Quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, of
formula (XI) below:
P-tS (XI)
in which: R1S is chosen from Cl-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl and
dihydroxyalkyl
radicals; R16 is chosen from. a radical RI9C(O)-, linear and branched,
saturated and unsaturated
C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals 120, and a hydrogen atom, R18 is chosen
front: a radical
R2 I C(O)-, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-
based radicals
1222, and a hydrogen atom, RI7, R 19 and R21, which may be identical or
different, are chosen
from linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based
radicals; n, p
and r. which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging
from 2 to 6 y is
chosen from integers ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or
different, are
chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is an anion chosen from simple
and complex,
organic and inorganic anions; with the proviso that the sum. x+y+z: is from 1
to 15, that when x is
0, then R 16 is R20 and that when z is 0, then R 18 is R22. In one embodiment,
the ammonium
salts of formula (XI) can be used, in which: R15 is chosen from methyl and
ethyl radicals, x and
y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; n, p and r are equal to 2; R16 is
chosen from: a radical
R19C(O)-,methyl, ethyl and C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and a hydrogen
atom; R17,
R19 and R21, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and
branched, saturated
and unsaturated C7-C21, hydrocarbon-based radicals: R18 is chosen from: a
radical R2IC(O-)-
and a hydrogen atom, Such compounds are commercially available as Dehyquart by
Cognis,
Stepanquat by Stepan, Noxamium by Ceca, and Rewoquat WE 18 by Rewo-Witco.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
28
Solvents, humectants
In addition to water (if present - even though the solid composition is
preferably substantially
free of water), the composition according to the present invention may further
comprise an
additional solvent, The additional solvent may be selected from at.. least one
organic solvent to
dissolve the compounds that would not typically be sufficiently soluble in
water.
Suitable organic solvents include, but are not limited to: Cl to C4 lower
alkanols (such as
ethanol, propanol, isopropanol); aromatic alcohols (such as benzyl alcohol and
phenoxyethanol);
polyols and polyol ethers (such as carbitols, 2-butoxyetbanol, propylene
glycol, propylene glycol
monotnethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, monotnethyl ether,
hexylene glycol,
glycerol, ethoxy glycol, butoxydiglycol, ethoxydiglycerol, dipropyleneglocol,
polygylcerol);
propylene carbonate; and mixtures thereof; alternatively ethanol, propanol.
isopropanol, glycerol,
1.2-propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethoxy diglycol, and mixtures thereof.
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of additional solvents of no
more than about
30% by weight of the total composition. Typically, when present, the on-head
composition
comprises a total amount of organic solvents ranging from about 1% to about
30%, by weight of
the total on-head composition.
Hinders and/or fillers
The composition according to the present invention may further comprise a
binder and/or a filler.
The solid composition may comprise a total amount of binders and/or fillers
ranging from about
50%, alternatively from about 60%, alternatively from about 70%, alternatively
from about 80%,
by weight of the total composition.
Suitable binders and/or fillers include, but arc not limited to: proteins;
saccharides and their
derivatives, including disaccharides and sugar alcohols; polysaccharides and
derivatives thereof;
synthetic polymers such as polyvinylpyrrolidone and polyethylene glycol;
alginate; gum; and
mixtures thereof.
Ionic strength
The on-head composition of the present invention may further have an ionic
strength as defined
herein of less than about 1.35mole/kg, alternatively from about 0.10 to about
0.75 mole/kg,
alternatively from about 0.20 to about 0.60 mole/kg. Whilst not being bound by
theory, it is
believed that the ionic strength value may also affect the resultant viscosity
and root adhesion
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
29
properties of the composition. The ionic strength can be affected by salt
resources such as the
dyes, sodium sulphate, ammonium carbonate anti-oxidants and chelants such as
EDDS. The dye
tends to have the greatest effect on the ionic strength and thus the amounts
added in order to
provide any particular shade need to be considered in terms of ionic strength
as well as dye
outcome in order to prevent viscosity and root adhesion problems.
The ionic strength of the composition is a function of the concentration of
all ions present in that
solution and is determined according to the formula:
T rc
nji j z2
where mi = molality of ion i (M - mot-/Kg H20), zi = charge number of that
ion, and the sum is
taken over all ions in the solution. For example, for a 1: 1 electrolyte such
as sodium chloride, the
ionic strength is equal to the concentration, but for MgSO4 the ionic strength
is four times higher.
Generally multivalent ions contribute strongly to the ionic strength.
For example the ionic strength of a mixed 0.050 M Na2SO4 and 0.020 M NaCI
solution is: I
1/2 ((2 x (+1)2 x 0.050) (+1)2 x 0.020 + (---))2 x 0.050 + (-1)` x 0.020) =
0.17 M.
Coating
The solid composition may be uncoated or coated. When coated, the composition
may be
partially coated, or integrally coated. Suitable coating, coating materials
and properties associated
herewith such as thickness and weight of the coating can be found in
'02012/127429,
particularly the disclosure from page 106, line 19 to page 109, line 27, which
is incorporated
herewith by reference.
On-head compositions and/or premixes
The solid compositions may be disintegrated (or diluted or dissolved) in a
medium, particularly
an aqueous medium, in order to form a composition ready to be applied onto
keratinous fibers
and/or to form premixes. Suitable media include, but are not limited to:
aqueous solutions and
aqueous suspension. Such media may also comprise further ingredients, Suitable
media can be
found in W02012/127429, particularly the disclosure from page 118, line 15 to
page 122, line
13, which is incorporated herewith by reference.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
Method of Use/Kits
It is understood that the examples of methods of use and embodiments described
herein are for
illustrative purposes only and that various modifications or changes in light
thereof will be
suggested to one skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the
present invention.
5 Retail oxidative hair dye compositions are usually sold in kits comprising,
in individually
packaged components such as separate containers, a dye component (also called
"dye cream" for
emulsions or "dye liquid" for solutions) comprising the oxidative dye
precursors and alkalizing
agent which is typically ammonia in a suitable carrier and; a oxidizing
component (also called
"hydrogen peroxide cream" for emulsions or "hydrogen peroxide liquid" for
solutions)
10 comprising the oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide). The consumer
mixes the dye
component and oxidizing component together immediately before use and applies
it onto the
hair. Similarly, retail bleaching compositions are also usually sold as a kit
comprising two or
three individually packaged components typically in two or three separate
containers. The first
component comprises the ammonium ion source (e.g. ammonia), the second
component
15 comprises the oxidizing agent and the third (optional), component comprises
a second oxidizing
agent. The bleaching compositions are obtained by mixing the above-mentioned
compositions
immediately before use. As an alternative to the retail oxidative hair dye
compositions usually
sold, the products may be provided to the consumer as solid compositions, as
described
hereinbefore. The products may also be provided in a liquid/cream form to the
consumer (for
20 example by adding to the solid composition(s) a medium, particularly an
aqueous medium or
water), for the consumer to mix these compositions to obtain an on-head
composition, ready for
application onto hair.
For, the professional hair salon market, the hair dye component and the
oxidizing component
and/or bleaching compositions are typically supplied independently, like in
the present case in
25 the form of solid composition(s), to allow the professional to select a
preferred combination.
After working the combined mixture for a few minutes (to insure uniform
application to all of the
hair), the oxidative dye composition is allowed to remain on the hair for an
amount sufficient for
the dyeing to take place (usually from about 2 to about 60 minutes, typically
about 30 to about 45
minutes). The consumer or salon professional then rinses the hair thoroughly
with water acid/'or
30 shampoo and allows it to dry. It will be observed that the hair has changed
from its original
colour to the desired colour.
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
31
Suitable kits comprising the solid composition according to the present
invention can be found in
W02012/127429, particularly the disclosure from page 122, line 13 to page 126,
line 25, which
is incorporated herewith by reference.
In both retail and professional applications, an optional conditioning agent
can also be provided.
In this embodiment, all three compositions can be mixed immediately before use
and applied
together, or the conditioning agent can be applied (after an optional rinse
step), as a post-
treatment immediately after the oxidative dye composition or bleaching
composition resulting
from the mixture of the other containers.
The kits may also comprise as optional components a pre-treatment composition
and/or a colour
refresher composition Such colour refresher compositions comprise at least one
pre-formed dye
and may be applied to the hair immediately after the oxidative colour Le, from
about I minute
after oxidative hair dye or bleach application to about 60 days after the
application. These colour
refresher composition can be used to increase the initial colour obtained and
or boost the colour
during the wash and style cycle until the next oxidative colouring or
bleaching event.
Viscosity
According to the present invention, the dye composition and the oxidizing
composition may be,
independently from one another, prepared - from a solid corriposition(s) as so
called thin
liquids or thicker type creams. Typically, thin type liquids have a viscosity
of less than about
1000cPs. Thick type creams typically have a viscosity of from about I000cPs.
Upon mixing the dye and oxidizing compositions, the resultant hair coloring
and nor bleaching on-
head composition preferably have a viscosity of from about 1000 to about
60000cPs,
alternatively from about 2000 to about 30000 cPs, alternatively from about
3000 to about 25000
cPs. Viscosity is measured using Brookfield viscometers with cone and platy
attachment. For
viscosities in the range of about 0 to about 12000 ePs, the Brookfield DV-11
viscometer with
S42 plate is used. 2rii1 sample of the composition is equilibrated at 26.7 C
for three minutes
before the readings are taken at 1 rpm. For viscosities in the range of about
12,000 to about
60,000 cPs, the Brookfield DV-1 viscometer with S52 plate is used. 0,5rnl
sample of the
composition is equilibrated for 1 minute at 26.7 C before the readings are
taken at 1 rpm.
Method of manufacture of the solid composition
The solid compositions according to the present invention may be prepared in a
tablet form by
compression technique. Conventional compression techniques could be used such
as those that
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
32
can be found in W02012/127429, particularly the diisclosure from page 113,
Sine 13 to page 118,
line 14, which is incorporated herewith by reference.
Methods of manufacture
The kits described hereinabove are well-known in the art and the compositions
in each container
can be manufactured utilizing any one of the standard approaches, these
include a) `Oil-ins-water'
process, b) `Phase Inversion' process and c) `One-pot' process. Such
compositions may be
prepared from solid composition(s) according to the present invention. For
example, when using
"oil-ins-water" process, surfactants of the present invention are added to
approximately 50% of
total water amount of the composition at about 40 C, homogenized for 15 to 30
min, then cooled
to room temperature thus forming gel network thickener premix; this premix is
then mixed cold
with remaining amounts of water, other optional components and/or oxidizing
agent, thus
forming the first and second component parts of the above described bleaching
or colouring kit,
Packaging and dispensing devices
The present invention may be provided in a variety of packaging devices and/or
dispensing
devices. These dispensing devices can come in the form of separate devices
which may he used
independently or in combination with one another. Typically, the hair
colouring or bleaching
compositions are contained within separate single or multi compartment
containers so that the
compositions can be stored separately from one another before use. The
compositions are then
mixed together by a mixing means and then dispensed from the device and
applied to the
consumer's hair by an application means.
The most common packaging device which can be used for the present invention
involves storing
the developer in a container such as a bottle, tube, aerosol, or a sachet and
separately storing the
dye lotion in an additional compartment within the developer container or more
preferably in a
separate container which may be identical such as a dual sachet or aerosol
systems for example
or different such as a bottle and tube system, Any combination may be used and
is typically
contingent on the type of composition being stored i.e. whether or not it is a
thick or thin type.
The consumer or hair salon professional may mix the oxidizing component and
the dye
component by any means. This may simply involve the use of a mixing bowl into
which the
compositions are dispensed and then mixed, preferably using a mixing means
such as a tool.
Alternatively, it may involve the addition of one of the compositions into the
container of the
other composition (typically the dye composition is added to the oxidizing
composition),
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
33
followed by manual shaking or mixing witri a toot. Another system involves the
perforation or
displacement of a seal located between the separate compartments of the dye
and oxidizing
composition within a single container or sachet followed by manual mixing
within the container
or in a separate and or additional container.
The devices described herein above can also be used in combination with a
product delivery and
or application tool to aid application of the product onto the hair. Again
these devices may be of
a very simple nature such as a nozzle attached to one of the containers or a
separate applicator
device such as a comb or brush. Such combs and brushes can be adapted in order
to achieve
particular effects, whether it may be quick and even coverage or root/hairline
touch up, or
highlights :or streaks. Alternatively, the container or one of the containers
may be provided with a,
comb attached to or instead of the dispensing nozzle whereby the product is
dispensed through
hollow tines and dispensing apertures located in the comb tines. The comb
tines may be provided
with single or multiple openings along the tines to improve product
application and evenness
especially root to tip, Product dispensation can be achieved by mechanical
pressure applied to the
container for example delaminating bottles or any of the mechanisms described
hereinabove. The
comb may be provided on the container such as to facilitate easy application
and may be
positioned vertically (so called verticomb) or at an angle to allow the
consumer to access all
areas, All devices may be designed to have utter-changeability, so that a
range of different tools
for hair application can be provided to the consumer.
The application devices may also include devices which assist in achieving
particular effects
such as highlighting such as highlighting combs, brushes and tools, fails and
highlighting caps.
Highlighting devices comprising a hinged device into which an amount of
composition is placed
and then used to apply the composition to pre-determined /selected hair
strands may also be used.
Additional device technology can he used to assist in the penetration of the
product into the hair,
Examples of such technology include heating devices, ultraviolet light devices
and ultrasound
devices.
Method of hair dyeing
The hair coloring composition may be obtained by mixing immediately prior to
use at least one
tint (solid) composition and at least one developer (solid) composition. A
sufficient amount of
the mixture is applied to the hair, according to the hair abundance, generally
from about 60 to
about 250 grams, Upon such preparation the. composition is applied to the hair
to be dyed and
remains in contact with the hair for an amount of time effective to dye the
hair. Typically, the
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
34
hair dye composition is allowed to act on the hair from about 2 to about 60,
preferably about 15
to about 45, more preferably about 30 minutes, at a temperature ranging from
15 C to about 50
C. Thereafter, the hair is rinsed with water to remove the composition and
dried. If necessary,
the hair is washed with a shampoo and rinsed, e.g., with water or a weakly
acidic solution, such
as a citric acid or tartaric acid solution, and dried. Optionally, a separate
conditioning product
may also be provided.
fhe method of treating hair with the composition may therefore comprise the
steps of.
(i) providing at least one tint (solid) composition comprising --- when
dispersed/diluted/dissolved
in a solvent such as water to form a tint premix the gel network thickening
system and if
present an alkalizing agent and oxidative precursor dyes and/or direct dyes;
(ii) providing a developer (solid) composition comprising an oxidizing agent,
and optionally ---
dispersing>diluting/dissolving it in a solvent such as water to form a
developer premix;
(iii) mixing the developer (solid) composition or its premix with the dye
(solid) composition or
its premix to obtain a hair coloring composition;
(iv) applying the on-head composition for the oxidative dyeing of keratin
fibers onto the hair.
The glycerol can be comprised in the dye composition or the developer
composition or
distributed in both components. Typically glycerol will be at least Comprised
in the dye
composition to serve as solvent for the dyes.
The method may further comprise waiting a period of time, typically between 2
minutes and 60
minutes, and then rinsing the hair coloring composition from the hair. The
hair coloring
composition can be applied on hair via applicator bottle or brush. It can be
used on full head or
partly on single strands (highlight application) as common highlight
applicator foils, caps and
special applicators can be used, but also freehand techniques such as
balayage, with brush and/or
combs can be possible. The composition can also be applied as a mousse via a
manual spray, a
pressurized container or an aerosol mousse. The composition may be dispensed
as a solid form to
which water is added to generate the oxidant and form a thickened vehicle
suitable for hair
coloring,
Methods, systems and devices
The composition is particularly suitable for use with the systems, methods and
devices disclosed
in W02012/127429.
Particularly, suitable systems are disclosed from page 37, line 3 to page 41,
line I], which is
incorporated herewith by reference. Suitable methods are disclosed from page
41, line 12 to page
CA 02799284 2012-12-19
43, line 20, A suitable predicting of a result of a treatment of keratinous
fibers is disclosed from
page 43, line 21 to page 57, line 17, which is incorporated herewith by
reference, including
Sanderson correction, extraction of optical properties among natural hair,
model for hair
coloration, and obtaining a model for colouring natural hair. A suitable
optical reader is disclosed
5 from page 57, line 20 to page 72, line 29, which is incorporated herewith by
reference, including
the opto-mechanical illumination, the illumination module, the detection
module, the use wide
spectrum, the illumination, finding hair cuticula, hair radius, measuring
angle and correcting,
illumination sources, preferred flow, mechanical design, source calibration,
polarization, and
external light suppression.
10 Particularly, a suitable dispensing device is disclosed from page 126, line
27 to page 154, line 13,
which is incorporated herewith by reference, including the tablet containers,
the dispensing unit,
the platform, additional components and operations, and the selection of a
tablet combination.
Suitable methods of treating keratinous fibers is disclosed from page 154,
line 14 to page 165,
line 17, which is incorporated herewith by reference.
The dimensions and values disclosed herein are not to be understood as being
strictly limited to
the exact numerical values recited. Instead, unless otherwise specified, each
such dimension is
intended to mean both the recited value and a functionally equivalent range
surrounding that
value. For example, a dimension disclosed its "40 mm" is intended to mean
"about 40 min."
Every document cited herein, including any cross referenced or related patent
or application, is
hereby incorporated herein by reference in its entirety unless expressly
excluded or otherwise
limited. The citation of any document is not an admission that it is prior art
with respect to any
invention disclosed or claimed herein or that it alone, or in any combination
with any other
reference or references, teaches, suggests or discloses any such invention.
Further, to the extent
that any meaning or definition of a term in this document conflicts with any
meaning o
definition of the same term in a document incorporated by reference, the
meaning or definition
assigned to that term in this document shall govern.
While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated
and described, it
would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and
modifications can be
made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is
therefore intended to
cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications that are
within the scope of this
invention.
