Note: Descriptions are shown in the official language in which they were submitted.
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WOOL FABRIC WITH STRETCH PROPERTIES AND GARMENTS MADE
THEREFROM
RELATED APPLICATONS
[0001] The present application is based on and claims priority to U.S.
Provisional Patent Application Serial No. 63,028,210, filed on May 21, 2020,
which is incorporated herein by reference.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Uniforms worn by public safety officers and military
personnel serve
various functions. The uniforms, for instance, readily identify the wearer as
someone who is there for public safety and to preserve the peace. The general
public can easily recognize uniforms for seeking safety or medical attention.
Uniforms also represent authority, which instills pride in the wearer and
garners
respect from the wearers peers.
[0003] Uniforms, such as public safety uniforms, should also
be functional and
provide protection to the wearer. In addition to providing protection, the
uniform
should be highly flexible, provide breathability, and should encumber the
wearer as
little as possible, especially when the wearer is involved in physical
activity.
[0004] In the past, public safety uniforms and uniforms worn
by the military
have incorporated wool fibers and wool yarns. Wool can provide numerous and
various advantages. For example, wool is wrinkle resistant, retains its shape
and
is shrink resistant. In addition, wool is durable and tear resistant. Further,
wool
repels water drops and absorbs water vapor, and is comfortable to wear in all
seasons. Wool also possesses inherent fire resistance. Wool fibers, for
instance,
are self-extinguishing and will not support combustion, which can be
especially
advantageous when worn by public safety officials, such as fire fighters,
police,
and those in the military.
[0005] Although wool does provide some inherent stretch
properties, those
skilled in the art have attempted to incorporate greater stretch into uniforms
made
from wool. For example, in the past, wool has been combined with elastic
fibers,
such as monofilament spandex fibers. Although good stretch characteristics
have
been incorporated into fabrics made in the past, further improvements are
still
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needed. More particularly, improvements are needed in incorporating greater
stretch into wool fabrics so that the fabrics are not only more comfortable to
wear,
but allow the wearer to engage in physical activity without being encumbered
by
the garment.
SUMMARY
[0006] In general, the present disclosure is directed to a
wool fabric with
improved stretch properties. The present disclosure is also directed to
garments
made from the fabric. The garments, for instance, can include public safety
uniforms, such as uniforms worn by the police, other peace officers, rangers
and
other park officials, military personnel, first responders including
firefighters, and
the like. The fabric of the present disclosure is also well suited to
producing
athletic uniforms and industrial work wear.
[0007] In one aspect, the fabric of the present disclosure
includes warp yarn
woven with fill yarns. The warp yarns comprise spun yarns containing wool
fibers.
In accordance with the present disclosure, all of the fill yarns can comprise
crimped bicomponent filament yarns. Each bicomponent filament can include a
first polyester portion and a second polyester portion positioned in the
filament in a
side by side relationship. For example, the crimp bicomponent filament yarns,
after being heat set, can have a crimped contraction of from about 20% to
about
80%. In accordance with the present disclosure, the fabric exhibits a stretch
of at
least 15%, such as at least 18 %, such as at least 20% in the fill direction
when
tested according to ASTM Test D3107.
[0008] In one embodiment, the first polyester portion of the
bicomponent
filament yarns can comprise a polyethylene terephthalate polymer. The second
polyester potion, on the other hand, can comprise a poly (trimethylene
terephthalate). The bicomponent filament yarns can comprise continuous
filaments. The yarns can also be textured. In one aspect, the yarns can have a
denier of from about 50 to about 350, such as from about 100 to about 200.
[0009] The spun yarns containing the wool fibers can also
contain synthetic
polymer fibers. For instance, the spun yarns can contain wool fibers combined
with polyester fibers. The wool fibers can make up from about 15% to about 85%
by weight of the yarn, such as from about 25% to about 75% by weight of the
yarn,
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such as from about 45% to about 55% by weight of the yarn. The remainder of
the
yarn can comprise polyester fibers. The spun yarns can comprise plied yarns or
single spun yarns. The wool fibers incorporated into the spun yarns can have
an
average fiber length of greater than about 3 inches and less than about 5
inches.
The wool fibers can have a diameter of greater than about 18 microns, such as
from about 18 microns to about 25 microns. Wool fibers can be contained in the
fabric generally in an amount from about 20% to about 60% by weight. The
fabric
can have a basis weight of from about 4.5 osy to about 12 osy. Such as from
about 5.5 osy to about 10 osy.
[00010] In another aspect, the present disclosure is directed to a fabric with
stretch properties comprising warp yarns woven with fill yarns. The warp yarns
can comprise spun yarns containing wool fibers. The wool fibers can have an
average fiber length of greater than about 3 inches. The fabric can further
contain
crimped bicomponent filament yarns that provide the stretch properties. Each
bicomponent filament can include a first polyester portion and a second
polyester
portion positioned in the filament in a side by side relationship. The fabric
can
exhibit a stretch of at least 15%, such as at least 18% in the fill and/or in
the warp
direction when tested according to ASTM Test D3107.
[00011] The present disclosure is also directed to garments made from fabrics
as described above. The garment, for instance, can comprise a uniform. In
producing the uniform, the fabric can be piece dyed. Alternatively, the fibers
contained within the fabric can be top dyed. In still another aspect, the
yarns
contained within the fabric can be packaged dyed. Each of the above dying
techniques can be used alone or in combination when forming the garments. The
garment made in accordance with the present disclosure can be a uniform, such
as a police uniform. The garment can include a shirt and a pair of pants that
are
the same color. Garments made in accordance with the present disclosure are
well suited for use by all different types of public safety personnel,
industrial
workers, athletes, and the like.
[00012] Other features and aspects of the present disclosure are discussed in
greater detail below.
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BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[00013] A full and enabling disclosure of the present disclosure is set forth
more
particularly in the remainder of the specification, including reference to the
accompanying figures, in which:
Figure 1 is a perspective view of one embodiment of a uniform that may be
made in accordance with the present disclosure.
[00014] Repeat use of reference characters in the present specification and
drawings is intended to represent the same or analogous features or elements
of
the present invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[00015] It is to be understood by one of ordinary skill in the art that the
present
discussion is a description of exemplary embodiments only and is not intended
as
limiting the broader aspects of the present disclosure.
[00016] In general, the present disclosure is directed to a wool fabric having
excellent stretch characteristics in at least one direction. The wool fabric
can be
used to produce numerous different types of clothing articles and garments.
The
wool fabric with stretch properties is particularly well suited to producing
uniforms
for public safety personnel, first responders, such as firemen, military
personnel,
and the like. The stretchable wool fabric is also well suited for producing
industrial
workwear. The fabric possesses not only all of the advantages of a wool
fabric,
but also has form fitting properties that allow the fabric to stretch when the
wearer
is involved in physical activity or when bending or kneeling.
[00017] In general, the fabric of the present disclosure is formed by
combining
spun yarns containing wool with crimped multi-component filament yarns. Each
filament in the crimped multi-component filament yarns is formed from at least
two
different polymers that occupy different spaces within the filament. Two
polymers
are selected that have different shrink characteristics, causing the filament
to crimp
and provide stretch properties. In one aspect of the present disclosure, the
crimped multi-component filament yarns are positioned at certain locations
within
the fabric for providing stretch properties where desired. For example, in one
particular embodiment, the crimped multi-component filament yarns can be
placed
in the fill direction for providing stretch properties in the fill direction.
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[00018] As described above, the fabric of the present disclosure also includes
spun yarns containing wool. Significant amounts of wool fibers are
incorporated
into the fabric for providing all of the benefits and advantages of a wool
fabric,
including fire resistance, anti-wrinkling properties, comfort, and
breathability. In
one aspect, relatively long wool fibers are incorporated into the fabric. The
longer
wool fibers can provide various advantages and benefits. The longer wool
fibers,
for instance, can dramatically increase durability.
[00019] Fabrics made in accordance with the present disclosure can be knitted
or woven, although woven fabrics are better suited for use in many garment
applications. The woven fabric can include warp yarns woven together with fill
yarns. The warp yarns extend in the warp direction or length direction. The
fill
yarns, on the other hand, extend in the fill direction or the width direction.
Spun
yarns containing wool fibers can extend only in the warp direction, only in
the fill
direction, or can extend in both the warp and fill direction. Similarly, the
crimped
multi-component filament yarns can extend only in the fill direction, only in
the
warp direction, or can extend both in the warp and fill directions. The
crimped
multi-component filament yarns are placed in the fabric in the direction in
which
stretch properties are desired.
[00020] As described above, the spun yarns incorporated into the fabric
contain
wool fibers. The spun yarns can contain only wool fibers or can contain wool
fibers combined with other fibers. The other fibers can be synthetic or
natural
fibers. For example, the spun yarns can contain wool fibers combined with
polyester fibers, nylon fibers, cotton fibers, regenerated cellulous fibers
such as
rayon fibers, acrylic fibers, and the like.
[00021] In one particular aspect, the spun yarns contained wool fibers
combined
with polyester fibers. The polyester fibers can be staple polyester fibers and
can
be contained in the spun yarns in an amount greater than about 15% by weight,
such as in an amount greater than about 25% by weight, such as in an amount
greater than about 35% by weight, such as in an amount greater than about 45%
by weight, such as in an amount greater than about 55% by weight. The
polyester
staple fibers are generally contained in the spun yarns in an amount less than
about 85% by weight, such as in an amount less than about 75% by weight, such
as in an amount less than about 65% by weight, such as in an amount less than
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about 55% by weight. The remainder of the spun yarns can comprise the wool
fibers. For example, the wool fibers can also be present in the spun yarn in
an
amount greater than about 15% by weight, such as in an amount greater than
about 25% by weight, such as in an amount greater than about 35% by weight,
such as in an amount greater than about 45% by weight, such as in an amount
greater than about 55% by weight, and generally in an amount less than 85% by
weight (when combined with other fibers such as polyester fibers), such as in
an
amount less than about 75% by weight, such as in an amount less 65% by weight,
such as in an amount less than about 55% by weight, such as in an amount less
than about 50% by weight. When forming the spun yarns, the wool fibers and
polyester fibers can form an intimate blend within each yarn.
[00022] Alternatively, however, the spun yarns can only contain wool fibers or
may contain wool fibers combined with one or more of the other fiber types
described above. In still another embodiment, the fabric may contain multiple
different types of spun yarns. For example, the fabric can include spun yarns
made exclusively from wool fibers in combination with spun yarns made from a
blend of wool fibers and polyester fibers. In still another embodiment,
different
spun yarns can be used in which the amount of wool fibers in relation to the
amount of polyester fibers can vary between two different types of yarns
incorporated into the fabric.
[00023] Although any suitable wool fiber can be used in accordance with the
present disclosure, in one aspect, wool fibers are incorporated into the
fabric that
have a relatively long length. For example, the wool fibers can have a length
of
greater than about 2.5 inches, such as greater than about 2.75 inches, such as
greater than about 3 inches, such as greater than about 3.25 inches, such as
greater than about 3.5 inches. The wool fibers generally have an average
length
of less than about 5 inches, such as less than about 4.5 inches, such as less
than
about 4 inches. The wool fibers can also have a relatively large diameter. For
instance, the diameter of the wool fibers can be greater than about 18
microns,
such as greater than about 19 microns, such as greater than about 20 microns,
such as greater than about 21 microns. The average diameter of the wool fibers
can generally be less than about 25 microns, such as less than about 23
microns,
such as less than about 22 microns. Incorporating longer wool fibers and/or
fibers
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having a relatively large diameter can provide challenges in forming the yarn
and
in weaving the yarns into the fabric. According to the present disclosure,
however,
it was discovered that the above described fibers can provide numerous
advantages. The longer wool fibers, for instance, can significantly increase
durability without sacrificing comfort.
[00024] The spun yarns incorporated into the fabric can be single spun yarns
or
can be plied yarns. Alternatively, the fabric can contain both single spun
yarns
and plied yarns. In one aspect, the fabric contains plied yarns at least in
one
direction, such as in the warp direction or in the fill direction. For
example, in one
aspect, the fabric is formed from plied spun yarns in the warp direction. The
present inventors discovered that plied yarns inhibit the formation of streaks
or
striations in the fabric in comparison to the use of single spun yarns.
[00025] The size of the spun yarns can vary depending upon the particular
application and the desired result. For example, the size of the spun yarns
can
depend upon the desired overall weight of the fabric, the type of crimped
multi-
component multifilament yarns that are used, the type of garment being formed,
and the like. In one aspect, when using single yarns, the yarn size can be
1/24,
1/26, 1/28, 1/30, 1/32, 1/34, 1/36, 1/38, and/or 1/40. When using plied yarns,
on
the other hand the size can be 2/40, 2/44, 2/48, 2/52, 2/56, 2/60, 2/64, 2/68,
2/72,
or 2/76 including all intervening sizes therebetween. The above sizes are
based
on worsted count (560 yards/lb).
[00026] In addition to one or more types of spun yarns, fabrics made according
to the present disclosure also contain yarns that provide stretch properties.
More
particularly, the fabric contains crimped multi-component filament yarns which
have been found to provide significant stretch characteristics when
incorporated
into the fabric along a particular direction. The spun yarns containing the
wool
fibers, on the other hand, can counteract the stretch characteristics of the
multi-
component filament yarns for providing integrity and stability.
[00027] In one embodiment, the crimped multi-component filament yarns include
bicomponent filaments containing two different polyester polymers. The
polyester
polymers can be positioned in the filament in a side by side relationship. The
two
different polyester polymers can have different shrink characteristics that
incorporate stretch characteristics into the filaments when heat set.
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[00028] The polyester bicomponent filaments include poly(ethylene
terephthalate) and poly(trimethylene terephthalate) in a weight ratio of about
30/70
to about 70/30, and have an after-heat-set crimp contraction value from about
20%
to about 80%, preferably about 30% to about 60%. Various connonomers can be
incorporated into the polyesters of the bicomponent filament in minor amounts,
provided. Such comonomers do not have an adverse effect on the amount of fiber
crimp. Examples include linear, cyclic, and branched aliphatic dicarboxylic
acids
(and their diesters) having 4-12 carbon atoms; aromatic dicarboxylic acids
(and
their esters) having 8-12 carbon atoms (for example isophthalic acid, 2,6-
naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, and 5-sodium-stilfoisophthalic acid); and
linear,
cyclic, and branched aliphatic diols having 3-8 carbon atoms (for example 1,3-
propane diol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, 2,2-
dimethy1-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3- propanediol, and 1,4-cyclohexanediol).
lsophthalic acid, pentanedioic acid, 5-sodium-sulfoisophthalic acid, hex
anedioic
acid, 1,3-propane diol, and 1,4-butanediol are preferred. The polyesters can
also
have incorporated therein additives, such as titanium dioxide.
[00029] The linear density of the crimped bicomponent filament yarns can vary
depending upon the particular application. The denier of the crimped
bicomponent
filament yarns, for instance, can generally be greater than about 50, such as
greater than about 75, such as greater than about 100, such as greater than
about
125, such as greater than about 140, and generally less than about 800, such
as
less than about 350, such as less than about 250, such as less than about 200,
such as less than about 175, such as less than about 160. Each yarn can
contain
a plurality of filaments. For instance, each yarn can contain greater than
about 10
filaments, such as greater than about 25 filaments, such as greater than about
40
filaments, such as greater than about 60 filaments, such as greater than about
70
filaments, such as greater than about 80 filaments, and generally less than
about
200 filaments, such as less than about 150 filaments, such as less than about
120
filaments. In one aspect, the crimped bicomponent filament yarns can have
greater than about 0.75 denier per filament, such as greater than about 1
denier
per filament, such as greater than about 1.3 denier per filament, and
generally less
than about 2.5 denier per filament, such as less than about 2 denier per
filament,
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such as less than about 1.75 denier per filament, such as less than abut 1.6
denier
per filament.
[00030] In some embodiments the polyester bicomponent filament yarns are not
twisted or entangled combinations of bicomponent filaments with other, for
example, monocomponent or staple, fibers. In other words, in these
embodiments,
the bicomponent filament yarns may be woven separately from the other yarns in
the fabric in order to avoid the expense of an additional step, to obtain high
stretch
and recovery properties, and to give high fabric surface smoothness.
[00031] In other embodiments the polyester bicomponent filaments may be
twisted, entangled, or core-spun with other fibers or filaments to provide
additional
beneficial properties. These properties include reducing exposure of the
bicomponent filament and providing different textures to the fabric. In these
embodiments, a multi-component yarn may be prepared which includes polyester
bicomponent filaments in addition to another fiber or filament which may be
staple,
continuous filament, and optionally textured fibers. These other fibers or
filaments
include relatively non-elastic yarns, also sometimes referred to as hard yarns
such
as cotton, polyester, nylon, rayon and wool, as well as elastomeric yarns such
as
rubber filament, bicomponent and elastoester, lastol and spandex.
[00032] Multi-component yarns may also include covered yarns where one fiber
is surrounded by, twisted with, or intermingled with another fiber or yarn.
Covered
yarns that include elastomeric fibers and hard yarns are also termed
"composite
yarns." When an elastomeric fiber is used, the hard-yarn covering serves to
protect the elastomeric fibers from abrasion during weaving processes. Such
abrasion can result in breaks in the elastomeric fiber with consequential
process
interruptions and undesired fabric non-uniformities. Further, the covering
helps to
stabilize the elastomeric fiber elastic behavior, so that the composite yarn
elongation can be more uniformly controlled during weaving processes than
would
be possible with bare elastomeric fibers.
[00033] There are multiple types of composite yarns, including: (a) single
wrapping of the one fiber with a different fiber; (b) double wrapping of one
fiber
with another fiber, (c) continuously covering (i.e., core spinning) one fiber
with
staple fibers, followed by twisting during spinning; (d) intermingling and
entangling
two or more fibers with an air jet, and (e) twisting two or more different
fibers or
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yarns together. One example of a composite yarn is a corespun yarn. A
"corespun yarn" includes of a separable core surrounded by a spun fiber
sheath.
Elastomeric corespun yarns are produced by introducing an elastomeric filament
to the front drafting roller of a spinning frame where it is covered by staple
fibers.
[00034] The amount of stretch provided by the crimped bicomponent filament
yarns can be measured as an after-heat-set crimp contraction value. After-heat-
set contraction values can be measured as follows. A sample of the bicomponent
polyester filament to be used is formed into a skein of 5000+/-5 total denier
(5550
dtex) with a skein reel at a tension of about 0.1 gpd (0.09 dN/tex). The skein
is
conditioned at 70+/-2 F (21+/-1 C.) and 65+/-2% relative humidity for a
minimum
of 16 hours. The skein is hung substantially vertically from a stand, a 1.5
mg/den
(1.35 mg/dtex) weight (e.g. 7.5 g for a 5550 dtex skein) is hung on the bottom
of
the skein, the weighted skein is allowed to come to an equilibrium length, and
the
length of the skein is measured to within 1 mm and recorded as "Cb". The 1.35
mg/dtex weight is left on the skein for the duration of the test. Next, a 500
g weight
(100 mg/d; 90 mg/dtex) is hung from the bottom of the skein, and the length of
the
skein is measured to within 1 mm and recorded as "Lb". Crimp contraction value
(percent) (before heat-setting, as described below for this test), "CCb", is
calculated according to the formula
CCb=100x(Lb-Cb), Lb
[00035] The 500 g weight is removed and the skein is then hung on a rack and
heat-set, with the 1.35 mg/dtex weight still in place, in an oven for 5
minutes at
about 225 F (107 C.), after which the rack and skein were removed from the
oven and conditioned as above for two hours. This step is designed to simulate
commercial dry heat-setting, which is one way to develop the final crimp in
the
bicomponent fiber. The length of the skein is measured as above, and its
length is
recorded as "Ca". The 500 g weight is again hung from the skein, and the skein
length is measured as above and recorded as "La'. The after heat-set crimp
contraction value (c)/0), "CCa", is calculated according to the formula
CCa=100x(La-Ca)La
[00036] As described above, the placement of the spun yarns in the woven
fabric of the present disclosure in relation to the crimped bicomponent
filament
yarns can depend on various factors including the amount of stretch desired
and
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the direction in which the stretch is desired. The spun yarns, on the other
hand,
can be incorporated for controlling the stretch properties and for providing
all of the
benefits and advantages to using wool fibers. In one particular aspect, the
fabric is
formed such that all of the warp yarns are spun yarns. In this manner, the
crimped
bicomponent filament yarns only extend in the fill direction. For example,
greater
than 50%, such as greater than 60%, such as greater than 70%, such as greater
than 80%, such as greater than 90% of the yarns in the fill direction can be
crimped bicomponent filament yarns. In one particular embodiment, the warp
yarns are all spun yarns containing wool fibers and the fill yarns are all
crimped
bicomponent filament yarns.
[00037] In one aspect, all of the warp yarns can comprise spun yarns while the
fill yarns can comprise a combination of crimped, bicomponent multifilament
yarns
and a second fill yarn. For example, a plurality of crimped bicomponent
filament
yarns can be grouped together and separated by one or second fill yarns. The
second fill yarns can be spun yarns or filament yarns. The spun yarns can be
as
described above with respect to the warp yarns. Alternatively, the second fill
yarns
can be filament yarns, such as multifilament yarns. In one aspect, the second
fill
yarns can be texturized polyester multifilament yarns. The second fill yarns
can
have a size or denier that substantially matches the size or denier of the
crimped
bicomponent filament yarns. Any suitable pattern can be incorporated into the
fill
direction. For example, from about 2 to about 20 crimped bicomponent
multifilament yarns, such as from about 4 to about 12 crimped bicomponent
filament yarns can be separated by from about 1 to about 10 second fill yarns,
such as from about 1 to about 5 second fill yarns. In one particular
embodiment,
the yarn pattern in the fill direction can be 3 to 10 crimped bicomponent
filament
yarns separated by 1 spun yarn or can be 1 to 2 crimped bicomponent filament
yarns separated by 1 multifilament yarn.
[00038] In still another embodiment, crimped bicomponent filament yarns can
extend in both the fill direction and the warp direction for providing a
fabric with
duel stretch properties. For example, the ratio between the spun yarns and the
crimped bicomponent filament yarns in the warp direction and/or the fill
direction
can be from about 20:1 to about 1:20. In one aspect, the ratio between the
spun
yarns and the crimped bicomponent filament yarns in the warp direction the
fill
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direction can be from about 8:1 to about 1:8, such as from about 4:1 to about
1:4,
such as from about 2:1 to about 1:2.
[00039] Once the fabric is formed in accordance with the present disclosure,
the
fabric can contain wool fibers in an amount generally greater than about 20%
by
weight, such as in an amount greater than about 25% by weight, such as in an
amount greater than about 30% by weight, such as in an amount greater than
about 35% by weight, such as in an amount greater than about 40% by weight,
and generally in an amount less than about 60% by weight, such as in an amount
less than about 55% by weight, such as in an amount less than about 50% by
weight, such as in an amount less than about 45% by weight. The crimped
bicomponent filament yarns can be present in the fabric in an amount greater
than
about 20% by weight, such as in an amount greater than about 30% by weight,
such as in an amount greater than about 40% by weight, and generally in an
amount less than about 60% by weight, such as in an amount less than about 50%
by weight, such as in an amount less than about 40% by weight.
[00040] When producing a woven fabric in accordance with the present
disclosure, the fabric can have any suitable weave. For instance, the fabric
can
have a plain weave, a twill weave, or a rip stop weave. In one embodiment, the
fabric can also be made with a herringbone weave. Twill weaves that can be
used
include 1 by 2 twill weaves, 1 by 3 twill weaves, 1 by 4 twill weaves, 2 by 1
twill
weaves, and the like.
[00041] The yarn density of fabrics made according to the present disclosure
can vary depending upon the size and type of yarns used, the desired basis
weight
of the fabric, and other various factors. In one aspect, the fabric can have
from
about 50 to about 190 ends per inch and from about 35 to about 95 picks per
inch.
For instance, the fabric can include greater than about 80 ends per inch, such
as
greater than about 100 ends per inch, such as greater than about 120 ends per
inch, such as greater than about 130 ends per inch, and generally less than
about
160 ends per inch, such as less than about 140 ends per inch. The fabric can
have greater than about 40 picks per inch, such as greater than about 50 picks
per
inch, such as greater than about 60 picks per inch, such as greater than about
70
picks per inch, such as greater than about 80 picks per inch, and generally
less
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than about 95 picks per inch, such as less than about 90 picks per inch, such
as
less than about 85 picks per inch.
[00042] The fabrics constructed in accordance with the present disclosure can
be used to construct numerous different types of products for use in various
applications. In one embodiment, for instance, the fabrics can be used to
produce
garments including any suitable clothing articles. Due to the combination of
comfort, durability and stretch, fabrics of the present disclosure are
particularly well
suited for producing uniforms. For example, the fabrics can be used to produce
uniforms for public safety personnel, park rangers, military personnel,
security
personnel, athletes, and the like. Garments made according to the present
disclosure may include shirts, pants, bib overalls, socks and other leg wear,
gloves, scarves, hats, and the like.
[00043] For instance, in one embodiment as shown in Fig. 1, the fabric can be
used to produce a police uniform 10. As shown, the police uniform 10 can
include
a shirt 12 and trousers or pants 14. Of particular advantage, the fabric of
the
present disclosure is substantially wrinkle free, maintains its form, and can
include
permanent press lines.
[00044] Many uniforms that are produced have strict color performance
guidelines. For instance, many police uniforms as shown in Fig. 1 are dyed a
distinctive blue color, such as a dark blue. In addition, the color of the
shirt 12
should, in many embodiments, match the color of the pants 14. Fabrics made
according to the present disclosure not only have an excellent balance of
physical
properties, but are also amenable to various different dying processes that
allow
for strict color control.
[00045] For example, in one aspect, fabrics made according to the present
disclosure can be piece dyed when producing garments. During piece dying, the
woven fabric is fed through a dying process. Of particular advantage, fabrics
can
be piece dyed according to the present disclosure and have a uniform and
consistent shade of color even though the fabric contains different types of
yarns.
[00046] Alternatively, the yarns can first be dyed and then woven to form the
fabric. For instance, fabrics can be made according to the present disclosure
containing yarns that have been packaged dyed, which includes doped dyed
yarns.
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[00047] In still another aspect, the fibers incorporated into the fabric of
the
present disclosure can first be dyed prior to forming the yarns. The fibers,
for
instance, can be top dyed, which includes producer dyed fibers.
[00048] In addition, all of the above dying techniques can be combined
together
in forming fabrics. For example, in one embodiment, the fill yarns can be
package
dyed, while the warp yarns can include fibers that have been top dyed. In
still
another embodiment, the warp yarns can include fibers that have been top dyed
and the woven fabric can be later piece dyed.
[00049] As described above, the use of the crimped multicomponent filament
yarns in combination with the spun yarns provides an excellent balance of
comfort,
durability and stretch properties. In fact, the use of the crimped
multicomponent
filament yarns can supply the fabric with significant stretch properties in
one or two
directions. In one embodiment, for instance, the crimped multicomponent
filament
yarns can be incorporated into the fill direction only and can provide the
fill
direction with a stretch of at least 15%, such as at least 18%, such as least
20%,
such as least 22%, such as least 25%, and generally less than about 40% when
tested according to ASTM Test D3107. In this embodiment, the warp direction
can
have a stretch of less than about 5%, such as less than about 4%, such as less
than about 3%.
[00050] Alternatively, the crimped multicomponent filament yarns can be
incorporated in the warp direction or in both the warp direction and the fill
direction.
Similar to the fill direction, for instance, the warp direction can have a
stretch of at
least 15%, such as least 18%, such as at least 20%, such as at least 23%, such
as
at least 25%, and generally less than about 40% when tested according to ASTM
Test D3107.
[00051] The present disclosure may be better understood with reference to the
following examples.
Example
[00052] Three different fabrics were made in accordance with the present
disclosure and tested for various properties including Stretch.
[00053] The following fabrics were tested.
[00054] Sample No. 1: Sample No. 1 contained 71% by weight polyester and
29% by weight wool. The fabric had a basis weight of 6.15 osy. The fabric was
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dyed a navy color. The warp yarns contained in the fabric were spun yarns
containing 55% wool fibers and 45% polyester fibers. The wool fibers had a
length
from about 3.5 inches to about 4 inches. The fill yarns included crimped
bicomponent multifilament yarns as described above in combination with
polyester
texturized multifilament yarns in a 1 to 1 relationship. The yarns alternated
in the
fill direction. The fabric had a 2 x 1 twill weave.
[00055] Sample No. 2: Sample No. 2 was very similar in construction to Sample
No. 1. Sample No. 2, however, had a twill elastique weave. The fabric
contained
75% by weight polyester and 25% by weight wool. The fabric had a basis weight
of
8.40 osy. This fabric was dyed a pink tan color.
[00056] Sample No. 3: Sample No. 3 contained 69% by weight polyester and
31% by weight wool. The fabric contained the same spun yarns as described
above with respect to Sample No. 1. The fill yarns contained in the fabric
were all
made from the crimped bicomponent multifilament yarns. The fabric was dyed a
navy color and had a 3 x 1 twill weave. The fabric had a basis weight of 7.95
osy.
[00057] In the above samples, the crimped bicomponent multifilament yarns had
a denier of 150. The polyester texturized, multifilament yarns also had a
denier of
150. The spun yarns had a count of 2/60.
[00058] Stretch was tested according to ASTM Test D3107 and breaking
strength was tested according to ASTM Test D5034. In addition to the above,
the
fabric samples also displayed little to no shrinkage even after 25 laundry
cycles.
Sample No. 1 Sample No. 2 Sample
No. 3
Stretch (/0) Warp 1.60 1.60 2.00
Fill 23.60 20.00 23.60
Recovery (%) Warp 100.00 99.80 100.00
Fill 99.20 99.00 100.00
Breaking Strength 68.56 180.74 203.40
Warp
Fill 62.31 242.20 174.90
[00059] These and other modifications and variations to the present invention
may be practiced by those of ordinary skill in the art, without departing from
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spirit and scope of the present invention, which is more particularly set
forth in the
appended claims. In addition, it should be understood that aspects of the
various
embodiments may be interchanged both in whole or in part. Furthermore, those
of
ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that the foregoing description is by
way of
example only, and is not intended to limit the invention so further described
in such
appended claims.
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