Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
1083800
BACKGROUN~ OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to substantially zero
twi~ yarns which can be u~ed in
conventional weaving and knitting operations to produce
fabrics having improved tactile and visual aesthetics.
Be$ore being knitted or woven, zero twist
textile yarns are inevitably subjected
to one or more processing steps in order to improve their
handling properties. At the very least, true textlle
twist at the "producer" level of twist (normally less than
0.4 turns/cm) is needed merely to allow such yarn to be
withdrawn from its supply package and for some purposes
very high levels of twist are required, i.e., from 6-12
turns Jcm. The need for such twist or a replacement
therefox is described by Bunting, Jr. et al. in U.S.
2,985,995.
In addition, zero twist
yarns are often processed before they are kni~ted or
woven to improve aesthetics potential for the fabric
to be produced from such yarns. Generally, procedures
such as stuffer box crimping, jet screen bulking, false
twist set text~ring and the like are conventionally
employed. Indeed, false twist set textured yarns com-
posed of polyester, nylon and the like have found wide-
spread asceptance in woven and knitted fabrics. However,
such fabrics, particularly knits, tend to sna~ and have
air permeabilities lower than optimum for summer wear.
On the other hand, fabrics made from yarns which are not
processed or textured tend to have a sleazy or synthetic
hand and a glitter that is also undesirable.
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1083800
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
. .
A yarn which has a uni~ue structure and which can
be easily processed into fabrics having a dry hand, flowing
drape, appealing luster and good air permeability has been
found. The yarn has substantially zero twist and random
lengths of tightly entangled fibers as nodes having zero
twist and comprising an average of about 20%-70% of a
representative length of the yarn, said nodes having a
retentivity of at least 75% and alternating with random
lengths of substantially unentangled asymmetrically splayed
fibers in intervals having an average length of about
3-12 mm. Continuous filament yarns are hereinafter referred
to as modified yarns. A fraction of the filaments in the
yarn can be broken to produce effect yarns which have
enhanced spun-like aesthetics. As used herein, the term
fiber is generic to continuous filaments and discontinuous
or broken filaments in the yarn and, unless otherwise
indicated, discussion of a yarn of this invention is generic
to modified and effect yarns.
2Q DRAWINGS
Figure 1 is an optical micrograph of a modified ;~
yarn magnified 3.5X;
Figure 2 is an electron micrograph of a node that
has been vapor-metallized and magnified 24X to show
morphological details;
Figure 3 depicts an idealized false twist knot;
Figure 4 is an optical micrograph of an effect yarn
magnified 3.5X;
Figure 5 is a schematic digram of one process used
to prepare the yarns of this invention;
Figure 6 schematically illustrates the apparatus
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used to measure node retentivity;
Figure 7 is a schematic diagram of a Rothschild
Yarn Entanglement Tester; and
Fisure 8 is a schematic diagram of another process
used to prepare the yarns of this invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The yarns of this invention are particularly
useful in making woven or knitted apparel or home furnish-
ing fabrics, e.g., dresswear, blouses, sheets, toweling,
draperies, curtains and the like. The structure
characteristic of the yarns of this invention serves as
a twist substitute because of the yarn morphology as
illustrated in Fi~. 1. Thus, fabrics can be produced
from the yarns of this invention which are similar to
those made from twisted yarns, for curtains, for example,
without the expense of the twisting step otherwise required
to consolidate a yarn and confer frictional characteristics.
As Fig. 1 shows, the modified yarns are characterized by
noccs or intcnsely entangled segments alternating with
intervals or segments containing substantially unentangled
asymmetrically splayed filaments. The nodes and intervals
have sufficiently random lengths that fabric features
attributable thereto, including spun-like aesthetics,
are not accompanied by objectionable barre patterning.
The nodes in the structure of the yarns of this invention
are intensely entangled and, upon microscopic examination, preferred
node structures appear to have a predominantly (greater
than about 5~/0) tightly braided appearance as shown in
Fig. 2, Most preferably,the node structures are substan-
c, 30 tially all (9~/0 or more) braided in appearance. The cross-
section of such nodes is essentially round or occasionally
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elliptical in shape. The nodes may have any other form as
desired as long as they are tightly entangled. ~y tightly
entangled is meant that the entanglement in the node is
so intense that the nodes will have a retentivity of at
least 75%. By retentivity is meant the percentage of
the original node length retained after the yarn under-
goes the Dynamic Stability Test described herein. The
dynamic stability test applies about the same amount of
force to a yarn as the yarn experiences transiently when
it is being woven conventionally, except that the test
requires this force to be maintained on the yarn for
thirty seconds. In order to insure that the integrity
of the yarn is maintained through processing, the retentiv-
ity of the highly entangled lengths is preferably at least
95% It is not uncommon to find individual yarns that
have substantially the same average length of entangle*
segments after textile processing into and removal from,
knitted or woven fabrics.
Since nodes are sufficiently devoid of false twist knots
to have substantially zero twist in the node structure and since
yarn of this invention, as produced, has substantially zero twist
along its length, the yarn is torque free and devoid of twist
liveliness. Accordingly, the yarn presents no torque balanc-
ing problem in knitting. Further, because the nodes have
zero twist, the yarn does not tend to bend in any planeas could the false twist knots shown in Fig. 3. Accordingly,
fabric aesthetics are different. In addition,
the zero twist nodes do not develop unbalanced shear
stresses in their cross sections which in turn can cause
~- 3o torsional buckling, - a kind of yarn deformation encountered
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with twisted or possibly false twist knotted yarns when the
yarn crowns to release torsional energy.
The nodes comprise a minimum of about 20~ o a representa-
tive length of yarn of the invention which is generally a randomly
chosen length of at least one meter. Preferably, the nodes
comprise at least 30~O o the yarn length to provide a
definite distinctiveness to fabrics compared to fabrics
prepared from the unmodified feed yarn. A desirable
maximum is about 7~/O, preferably 6~/o of nodes in a
representative yarn length since higher amounts result
in stiff yarns which provide fabrics with a harsh, some-
times scratchy tactility. As long as these ranges are
observed, the length of each individual node per se is
not critical and average node length may vary from 1-8 mm,
~15 ; preferably 2-7 mm.
~$~ Since the nodes alternate with the intervals in yarns of
the invention and since the nodes, as well as the intervals, may
vary in length, there may be selected short sections of yarn
in which the nodes may comprise somewhat less than 2~/o~
In addition, some interval lengths will be found to be
greate~ or less than the average lengths specified herein.
e~presence of such yarn sections and interval lengths
wi11 not~detract from the performance of the yarn as long
;;as,~on the whole, the nodes comprise a minimum of 20% of
the~yarn length and the intervals have an average length
of 3-12 mm, preferably 3-8 mm.
The intervals which alternate with the node
contain asymmetrically splayed substantially unen-
tangled filaments as shown in Fig. l. It is believed
that the splaying of the filaments results because some
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filaments in the interval are more involved in the
adjacent node structure or structures than are the
other filaments in that interval. This is, in turn, be-
lieved to be a function of the intensity of the entangle-
ment in the node.
As shown in Fig. 1, the interval contains some
straight load-bearing filaments extending between the
nodes and along the longitudinal axis of~the yarn while the
remaining or non-load-bearing filaments have varying lengths
an'd splay around the axial load-bearing filaments for greater
or lesser distances dictated by their available lengths.
The splays can be asymmetrical in either or both of two
ways. The filaments may project outwardly to a greater
extent on one side of the core filaments than on any other
side or more of the filaments in the splayed segment may
be situated on one side of the load-bearing filaments than
on any other side. In the latter case, the outermost fila-
ments in the splayed segment can extend for the same distance
as any other of the outermost filaments' which have the same ~ ~
load-bearing filament core although they need not. Thus, ~ '
the kind and degree of splay which exist along a yarn
length are not uniform and the splayed or non-axial fila-
ments in the interval can be either in a single plane or
in two or more pl'anes around the load-bearing filaments.
' The splayed filaments in the intervals are essentially
unentangled and they may possess latent crimping potential,
as when bicomponent filaments are used.
Although the splay of the filaments in the inter-
vals may appear to be diminished during conversion of the
yarn into fabric, it nevertheless contributes increased
cover over that achieved using the corresponding unmodified
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yarn. The splays provide good drape and reappear substan-
tially intact when the yarn is removed from the fabric.
The splays also provide fabrics which t~nd to have a
soft hand. This result is believed attributable to the
S fact that the asymmetrically splayed filaments will not com-
pletely nest or bed at yarn intersections. Nevertheless,
the yarns of this invention present no snag or filament
picking problems upon being processed and they exhibit
a high degree of stability and integrity.
Fabrics prepared from the modified yarns of this
invention exhibit an unusual random pattern of dirfering light
reflectances that integrates to an overall subdued luster
and spun-like appearance. They have an attractive, dry, crisp
hand due to the higher friction characteristics of the yarn
compared to the feed yarn arising from the intense entangle-
ment in the nodes. The frictional characteristics also
account for the fact that terry ground cloth capable of
holding a pile in place without pull-apart can be pre-
pared from yarns having the node/interval structure defined
herein although such fabrics are not obtainable from
similar unmodified yarns. Fabrics having such character-
istics find broad utility, including use in wovens for
dress and sportswear, in light-weight knits for dresses
and blouses, and in home furnishings such as for draperies,
sheer curtains, napery, sheets and pillowcases, the latter
especially as a filament/spun yarn combination where the
yarns of this invention serve as strong warp yarns. Modi-
fication of the smooth-slick look and feel of fabric made
from flat, continuous filament yarns provides an a~sthetic
advantage and gives some fabrics a worsted-like or cotton-
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likc appearance even in the absence of free fiber ends.
Suppression of specular reflectance or glitter ~ives these
fabrics a desirable, subdued luster.
Fabrics made from yarns of this invention gen-
erally exhibit superior wash-wear performance relative to
fabrics made from the corresponding, unmodified feed yar-.s.
They also have unexpectedly good resistance to snagging and
superior retention of topical applications such as resins
added 'co impart hydrophilic characteristics (water wick-
ability~.
In additior, to the foregoing, fabrics which are
to be used in clothing and which are prepared from the yarns
of this invention have good air permeability. This property
provides summer comfort. Fabrics made from the modified
yarns of this invention have only moderately less air
permeability than fabrics made from the corresponding
unmodified yarns, and have a good balance of dry crisp
hand and cool comfort. Examples 4 and 6 illustrate these
relationships. By contrast, conventional yarn texturing
methods used to develop dry tactility in fabrics lead to
increased bulk and cover but cause a significant reduction
in the air permeability of fabrics prepared from such
yarns.
A different result can be produced in fabrics
prepared from yarns of this invention in which a fraction
of the filaments in the yarn has been broken as iliustrated ~ -
in Fig. 4. The fraction of filaments which is broken ; `
can determine yarn strength, that is, the yarn can
become weaker as the number of broken filaments increases.
Accordingly, the fraction of filaments to be broken can be -
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~083800
dictated, for example, by the yarn strength desired and can
be controlled by using a predetermined ratio of weaker to
stronger filaments in the yarn. The filaments ~hat are
broken e~tend freely from, but are securely anchored into,
the main structure via the nodes to provide enhanced spun-
like aesthetics without the disadvantage of fiber pull-out.
As a consequence, an effect yarn, i.e., a modified yarn hav-
ing a core of essentially continuous filaments and containing
free ends, is achieved.
Ther~ are certain methods for the preparation
of effect yarns in which the filaments are broken and
simultaneously entangled in certain instances. In such
methods, the broken filaments or fibers contribute to the
entanglement by wrapping and interstitching the node. In
such a case, free ends can extend from the node itself.
The retentivity of such effect yarns is especially high.
Also, because the broken filaments are entangled in the node,
the average end length is small and similar to that for con-
solidated spun yarns. (Long average end length is disad-
vantageous since it tends to cause an undesirable fuzzy
fabric appearance and poor pilling resistance.)
The effect yarns of this invention have many of the
attributes of both spun yarns and continuous filament yarns
and are much more uniform than commercial spun yarns with
respect to both denier and strength. For example, a commercial
spun yarn has a coefficient of variation of denier of about
14% as measured on a Uster Evenness Tester under standard
conditions while the effect yarns of this invention have a
coefficient of variation of about 3-5%. Likewise the effect
yarns of this invention have more uniform strength due to
their core of essentially continuous filaments which provides
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significantly better processibility. The strength uniformity
makes it ~easible to u~e the effect yarns as strong warp yarns
in combination fabrics. In addition, the free ends of the
effect yarns afford enhanced spun-like aesthetics over the
modified yarns of this invention. Preferred effect yarns of
this invention typically have an average free end length of
0.8 mm to 2.5 mm with ~ 10~ (preferably < 5%) being longer than
6 mm. A typical 177 denier (19.6 tex) (30/1 cc) polyester/cottGn
spun yarn has about a 1.3 mm average free end length with
C 5% longer than 6 mm. Further, the average free end length
can be much shorter than the average interval length of the
modified yarns, as shown ln Figure 4.
The number of free ends which are contained in an
effect yarn of this invention depends upon the work-to-break
(WTB) value of the individual filaments expressed as
dyne-cm/cm, fluid pressure, yarn running speed and the amount
of overfeed on the yarn going into the entangling jet. Since
yarns produced by commercial processes generally have good
uniformity, the WTB values of filaments of such yarns are
fairly uniform and can be spoken of in terms of average
work-to-break (WTB) for any given yarn. Accordingly, the
property for any given group of filaments will be referred to
generally hereinafter as WTB.
Generally, selectivity in filament fracturing
becomes greater as the difference between the ~rB values of
the filaments increases. An effect yarn can be produced from
feed yarns wherein the filaments are m~de from the same poly-
mer having the same relative viscosity (molecular weight)
and having the same denier ~all o~ which tend to provide
essentially equal strength) undex suitable conditions as
~083800
described herein as long as the filaments do not have exactly
th~ same WTB value and some of them will fracture before others.
Generally, h~wever, feed yarns of two or more kinds o
filaments having discretel~ differcnt WTB values are preferred.
Where filaments having widely dif~erent WI~ values are used,
part or all of the filaments in the group of lower W~ , but
essentially none of the filaments in the group of higher WTB,
are fractured in many sections if the effective work potential
of the fluid (Kinetic energy) exceeds only the WTB of the
filaments having lower WTB values. The differentiation in
~B can be derived not only by using two or more different
polymer compositions, but also by using two or more different
molecular weights tRV) or the same or different polymers and
by using different filament deniers, cross-sections, elongations
or crystallinities or combinations of these. When different
filament deniers are used, the filaments to be broken should
have a maximum denier of 4 [ .44 tex] and the filaments to
remain intact should have a denier of 2-10 [.22-1.1 tex] as
long as the average dpf of the yarn is less than 8 [.89 tex~.
The effect yarn would then be comprised of a core of essentially
continuous filaments of higher WTB with some of the filaments
of lower WTB broken into numerous free ends to confer soft
tactility to fabrics made from such yarns. Beca~se the
filaments of higher WTB function as the core, the effect yarns
retain strength and strength uniformity.
Preferred feed yarns contain a total of 20-600
filaments, most preferably 20-100, and have a total denier
of 40-600 (4.4-66.7 tex). Significantly enhanced spun-llke
aesthetics can be obtained in fabrics prepared from a 150-200
denier (16.7-22.2 tex) yarn havin~ 2-50 free ends per cm, prefer-
ably 8 free ends per cm (20 ends per inch). These yarns have a
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relatively uni~orm breaking strength of at least about 30 lbs
(133.4 N) which ma~es them useful for preparing Xnitted and
woven fabrics conve~tionally without difficulty.
The erfect yarns of this inventioll can also be
achieved conveniently by other methods such as, fox example,
by abrading modified yarns having the unique node-interval
structure described herein. A convenient way to abrade such
yarns is to pass them over stationary sheets of sandpaper,
adjusting the pressure between the sandpaper and the yarn so
that a sufficient number of filaments can be broken without
serious detriment to the overall yarn structure. An abrasive
wheel, such as, for example, a one-inch (2.54 cm) diameter
wheel shaped as a torus at its outer face can also be used
either in line with the process used to modify the feed yarn
or in a separate operation independent of the modification
process. In either case, the modified yarn is tensioned,
guided and forwarded across the rapidl~ revolving wheel to
generate free fiber ends in the yarn. Other methods for
abrading yarn known in the art can also be used.
Fabrics prepared from the effect yarns of this
invention have enhanced spun-like aesthetics and a firm
crisp hand. If mixed dpf staple is used in preparing a
spun yarn, a harsh hand results because the higher dpf ends
as well as the lower dpf ends are free. In certain effect
yarns, the core is composed mainly of higher denier fila-
ments while the lower denier filaments form the free ends,
thus providing a fabric with a combination of good body and
a soft warm spun-like hand. Further, because the free ends
in the effect yarns derive from continuous filaments and
are tightly entangled and anchored in the nodes, enhanced
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spun-like aesthetics are achieved without the disadvantage
of fiber pull-out.
Fabrics prepared from the effect yarns of this
invention have superior bulk and co~ering power compared to
. 5 unmodified yarns and modified yarns without free ends. In
many woven constructions the covering power of these yarns
surpasses that Gf commercial SpU;l yarns (see Example 24).
The free ends impart a soft, warm tactility to knit and
woven fabrics not unlike that obtained with commercial spun
yarns, making them especially suitable for shirts, blouses
and other apparel. In addition, the high denier uniformity
- of the effect yarns of this invention provides fabrics
with a pleasing visual uniformity superior to that obtained
from commercial spun yarns. ~ecause a lofty structure is
:15 more desirable in apparel end-uses conventionally employins
spun yarns, the preferred level of entanglement is lower
for modified yarns with free ends (effect yarns) than for
modified yarns without free ends. Preferably, about 25-40
of the effect yarn length is entangled as nodes.
~20 The yarns of this invention can be prepared from
any filament forming synthetic organic polymer although
filaments of other materials such as silk are also suitable.
Illustrative of such synthetic organic polymers are rayons,
. .
homopolymers and copolymers of nylons, polyesters, acrylics,
polyolefins and aramids and the like. Exemplary nylons
are 66 ~poly(hexamethylene adipamide)], 6[poly(omega-caproamid~
'
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1083800
6T[poly(hexamethylene terephthalamide)~, those disclosed in
U.S. Patent 3,416,302 and copolymers such as 66/6T[poly(hexa-
methylene adipamide/terephthalamide)] and the like. Exemplary
polyes~ers are poly(ethylene terephthalate), poly(trimethylene
S terephthalate), poly(tetramethylene terephthalate), poly(hexa-
llydro-para-xylylene terephthalate), copolymers such as described
in the Griffing and Remington U.S. Patent 3,018,272 and the
like. Exemplary acrylics are polyacrylonitrile and its
copolymers such as those described by Andres and Sween-y in
~ 10 U.S. Patent 2,837,500 and by Millhiser in U.S. Patent
; 2,837,501 and the l~ke. Polyolefins include polypropylene
as an example and aramids include poly(metaphenylene
isophthalamide), poly(para-phenylene terephthalamide), copoly-
- mers such as poly(metaphenylene isoterephthalamide) and
the like.
In general, the modified yarns of this invention
can be prepared from any continuous filament feed yarn
having at least 10 filaments, and the effect yarn can
be prepared from any continuous filament feed yarn having
: 20 at least 20 filaments. In such yarns the filaments
... .
should have an average dpf of less than about 8 ~.89 tex).
Yarns having at least 10 filaments are more easily modified
than yarns having less than 10 filaments and at an average
of less than 8 dpf (.89 tex), they provide a higher degree
of softness than yarns of a higher dpf. The feed yarn
-' filaments may also have round as well as non-round cross-
sections and they may be multilobal, elliptical or multi-
, lateral and so on or they may have mixed characteristics,
e.g., mixed shrinkage, dpf or cross-section, or they may be
' 30 bicomponent to enhance $abric tactile or visual aesthetics.
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The yarns of the invention are preferably prepared
from flat dra~m or otherwise oriented yarns, that is,
uncrimped and untextured yarns, which have a denier of up
to about 800 (8~.9 tex) ~referably up to about 600 (66.7 tex).
Yarns having a denier of up to about 600 are generally
textile denier yarns and are preferred for ease of modifica-
tion. Higher denier feed yarns can also be used as desired
as long as they provide the retentivity and overall yarn
structure described herein.
The yarns of this invention can be made from a
mixed filament feed yarn in which the mixed filaments have
different draw retraction forces. Such yarns can be prepared
from a suitable number of filaments of different pollm~r
` compositions or the yarn can consist of a number of bi-
component filaments and monocomponent filaments. A
side-by-side bicomponent yarn in which the two components
may later be split apart can also be used. The undrawn
cospun yarn can be supplied from a package or from
a continuous filament spinning machine with the yarn being
spun, drawn and converted to the products of this invention
all in one operation. Processing speeds up to 1000 m/min
or higher can be used in such cases. In one embodiment,
-1 an undrawn cospun feed yarn is fed from a supply package to
the feed roll of a standard draw winder, drawn over a hot -
: 25 plate or hot pin maintained at a suitable temperature and
then passed through a jet to give the nodes and intervals
herein described. As shown in Fig. 5, the yarn is withdrawn
from supply roll 1 and passed through yarn guide 2 by feed
rolls 3 which control the draw ratio. The yarn is drawn by
draw rolls 6 over a hot plate or pin 4 maintained at a
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suitable temperature to assist in the drawing of the par-
ticular poly~er or polymers being used. The speed of the
draw rolls is held constant and the draw ratio is adjusted
by changing the feed roll speed. From draw rolls 6 the
yarn is passed through any standard interlacing jet 7
such as, for example, any of those described in U.S.
Patents 3,426,406; 3,364,537 and the like. ~he modified
yarn is then passed over relaxation rolls 8 which are -
~ operated at a slower speed than the speed of draw rolls 6.
; 10 The resulting modified yarn is wound up onto package 9.
~' It is hypothesized that the differential retraction
immediately after draw of the filaments of the multicomponent
yarn provides excess filament length in some of the filaments ~ ~-
when the yarn is overfed to the interlacing jet. This excess ~ -
, 15 length is essentially under zero tension while the remainder ~ -
.
of the yarn is under tension. As a consequence, the excess
'; length is entangled into the nodes of the yarns of this inven-
tion. With monocomponent yarns, more strenuous jet conditions
are necessary to give the desired structure.
The unique node-interval structure of this inven-
tion can also be achieved by feeding the yarn to be modified
. : .
from a supply roll, wetting the yarn with water and feeding
, the wetted yarn, typically, through a pair of canted jets in
series. As illustrated in Figure 8, feed yarn 21 is with-
drawn from package 31 through tensioner 22 by feed rolls 23
. ~1
and 24 that control the feed rate. Output rolls 28 and 2
~' are run at a slightly lower speed to establish the desired
~,~4: .
overfeed of yarn in the process. After leaving feed
roll 24, the yarn passes through applicator jet 25, then
two interlacing jets 26 and 27 in series, generally canted
,
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as indicated at 45 to the threadline. Water, or other
suitable fluid, is fed into inle' 51, and a pressùrized
gas, preferably air, is fed into inlets 61 and 71 (and to
additional gas inlets not shown if required by the specific
jet design). Modified yarn 32 is wound onto a package by
winder 33. Any other suitable method may also be used.
TESTING PROCEDURES
Node and Interval Lenqths (Manual)
One end of a 115 cm length of yarn is clamped at
one end of a horizontally mounted meter stick. A weight
calculated as a load of about 0.01 gpd on the yarn is
attached to the other end and the yarn is passed over a
pulley and allowed to hang freely beyond the opposite end
of the meter stick. A smooth, pointed pin is inserted
perpendicularly through the interval nearest theclamped end
and gently moved back and forth manually to identify the
~' points where nodes begin; the applied force should be
selected to neither break nor stretch the filaments -- -
about 5-10 g. is adequate for textile deniers. The dis-
tance between nodes at each end is noted on the meter stick
and recorded to the nearest mm. This procedure is repeated
until 74 intervals alongside the meter stick have been
measured, or until all of the intervals in the meter length
have been measured if there are less than 74, and the corre-
l' 25 sponding total yarn length noted. The node lengths reported
!, are the distances between measured intervals. The calcula-
tions are as follows:
, sum of all interval
average interval ~ength = len~ths mcasure(l
number of lengt]ls measured
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average nodc len~h =
yarn length ~ sum of all interval len~ths
measured
numbcr of I~g~]ls measured - l
sum of all interval lengths
% int~rval length = ~ea~ ~e~ x lOO
yarn length
node length = lO0 - ~ interval length
Node an~ Interval Lenqths (Rothschild Yarn Entan~lement Tester)
.. . ._ ._ . _ _
Equipment available commercially can also be used
to determine node and interval lengths and characterize the
yarns of this invention. The Rothschild Yarn Entanglement
Tester diagramatically illustrated in Figure 7 can be used
for this purpose. The yarn is strung up on the machine
as shown, a needle is inserted and the yarn is pulled
under ten gram running tension until the needle encounters
a predetermined trip tension set at twenty grams for the
data summarized in Table 5. After the trip tension is
reached, the yarn is stopped, the needle is removed and
the yarn is pulled a specified skip distance which is
9 cm (3.5 inches) for the data summarized in Table 5.
When the skip distance is reached, the yarn is stopped,
; the needle is inserted and the process is repeated. The
Rothschild data reported herein is based on 300 or more
pin counts taken over about a forty yard length of yarn.
Because of ihe nature of the entanglement in the
yarns of this invention, the pin count is a function of
- skip distance if the skip distance is l or 2 cm, but not
if the skip distance is 5 cm or longer. In other words,
the insertion of the pin becomes random with respect to
the short entangled sections at distances of 5 cm or more.
The pin count data are then displayed into a
j histogram so that portions of the curve can be examined and
used to calculate the following parameters:
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Sum of all lengths measured
Mean = Number of pin insertions
~(~cr~ =(Number of .ine~_pin failed to penetrate) x 100
Number of pin insertions
%(~ 3 mm) =(Number of pin count lengths less than 4 mm) 100
Number of pin insertions
%~ 15 mm)=(Number of pin count len~ths greater than 15 mm) x 100
Number of pin insertions
However, it is possible that certain fine denier
yarns will be stretched because of the yarn tensions
invGlved in using the Rothschild Yarn Entanglement Tester.
If there are no counts at 1 and 2 mm (and possibly at
succeeding consecutive counts), the histogram should be
reconstructed by subtracting the highest length with zero
count from all nonzero pin count numbers. The above four
parameters are then calculated from the revised histogram.
Free End Tests
Test I Free End Count
.,
The equipment for carrying out this test includes
a jig comprising a rectangular brass plate having (1) a
set of locating pins, two on each side of the plate, for
- positioning an 8.3 cm X 10.2 cm (3.25 in. X 4 in.) glass
slide and ~2) a set of guide pins, five on each of the
short sides of the rectangular plate spaced approximately
1.25 cm apart, for positioning segments of yarn in par-
allel lines. The rectangle defined by the guide pins is
filled by a piece of black velvet to pro~ide a high-
contrast background. In carrying out the test, the
slide is placed between the locating pins and the yarn
to be examined is taped to the upper left-hand corner
,~ ' .
:1083800
of the plate, then run successively back and forth across
the plate in five parallel lines, using the guide pins
to hold the yarn in position, ~he yarn finally being
taped again to the plate at the lower right-hand corner.
A second glass slide, taped along each of its short ends
with strips of tape approximately 1 cm wide having ad-
` hesive on each face of the tape, is then placed between
the locating pins and pressed firmly against the lower
slide. This seals the slides together and anchors the
yarns. The excess protruding loops around the guide
pins are then cut free. The joined slides are then
; removed from the ~ig and the short ends are wrapped
with masking tape approximately 1 cm in width to
~ complete the mounting op~ration. The pair of slides
- 15 iS then placed on a microscope stage at 15X magnifica-
tion, where the visible free ends in the five yarn seg-
ments (each approximately 8 cm long) are counted. A
record of the visible free ends in each segment is made on
` the tape at the right end of that segment. The
total number of free ends visible in all of these seg-
ments is then obtained by adding the numbers obtained
:
for each of the segments, and the total is divided by
the total length of yarn scanned to obtain the average
.,, ~
number of free ends per centimeter.
,
Test II Free End Length and Ends/cm
About a 35 cm length is cut from the yarn to be
tested. The yarn is taped at both ends to a clear plastic
straight edge, which has been marked off in 1 cm segments.
- The yarn is placed so that it lies straight but not under
tension and is then covered with a second clear straight
.,
- 21 -
, .. . .
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1~83800
edge. The yarn 1~ Yiewed on a æhadowgraph (e.g., WHlder
Varibeam, Optometr$c Tools, Inc., Rockleigh, N.J, o7647 or
Nippon Kogaku K.K., Japan Model 6) at 20X magnification,
snd all of the following measurement~ are made on the
screen on whlch the yarn image læ pro~ected. Through 30 cm
of yarn length, the number Or rree ends ln each 1 cm segment
is counted and recorded, and the length of e~ch free end
~easured by following its path wlth a small ruler or a
calibrated strlng. Individual lengths are recorded in lncre-
ments of 1 mm for lengths in the range of from 0 up to 4 mm
and in increments of 2 for lengths longer than 4 m~. An~ length
~` greater than ~he last integer or 0 is recorded as the next whole
number, or 1f longer than 4 mm, it is recorded as the ~ext even
whole number (e.g., a length of 0.2 mm would be recorded as
1 mm, a length of 4.1 mm would be recorded as 6 mm, ~eeping
- in mind that the actual readlngs are done at 20X, therefore, a
1 mm rree end length i~ measured as 20 mm on the screen). Two
additional 30 cm yarn lengths are analyzed for the number of
~ree endæ in 1 cm segments, but not for end length.
The following calculations are m~de from the data
obtained as described above:
Free End/cm = No- free end8 COunted in 90 cm
Fraction Or rree endæ in r~nge ~otal No. ~ree ends mea8 w d
-~ Iower end of increment ~ upper
Midpoint of increment = end o~ increment
For each increment, the lower end ~s the upper end
o~ the previou~ incremen~.
:
,
.~ .
- 22 _
,
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1083800
Avg. Free End Length ~ The sum of the value~ obtained by
multiplying the fraction of free end8 ln
each increment by the midpoint of the
increment
6 No Freembeedr~o> free en~8 meaæured
Node Retentivity - Dynamic Stability Test
Retentivity of the entangled nodes in textile
proce~sing i~ predicted with good precision by a test in
which a loop, formed of about fiv~ yards of yarn i8 subjected
for a deflned period of time, to conditions which simulate
the textile processing conditions under which the yarn iæ
converted to a fabric and finished.
With reference to Figure 6, yarn 12 is wrapped
around tensioner 16 with the end left free at top,
through tensiometer l9, across ceramic guide 18 a~ an
angle oi 120, wrapped seven times around drlve roll 14
and canted idler roll 15, through pigtail 17. The ends
the loop are tied together securely, and the tensioner
is ad~usted to apply a load equal to .14 gpd on the yarn
as it passes the ceramic guide. (The return loop of the
yarn from the drive roll to the tens10ner is under zero
tension). ~he yarn speed is controlled at 30 ypm (27 m/min).
Once the tension and ~peed are adJu~ted, a fresh æample Or
i yarn i8 mounted by the æame procedure and run ior 0.5 minute,
then removed and tested in the Node and Interval Iengthæ
meaæurement. The percentage oi the original node length
retalned after the yarn undergoes the dynQmic stability test
i8 the retentivlty.
;`.',
~ - 23 -
.
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~083800
Breakin~ Strength (Yarn)
A skein of 120 yard~ (110 m) of yarn i~ wound on
a 54" (137 cm) circumference reel (8.6" t21.9 cm] radius),
and broken to obtain lb~-to-break with a Scott ~ester (Model
DH., No. B38850), bullt by Scott Tester I~G., Providence,
R.I. The lbs-to-break i8 recorded a~ the breaking strength
of the yarn in the examples.
Work-to-Break (WTB)
The procedure described in ASTM D-885-72, Section 26
is used to measure the work-to-break of a 10 inch ~25.4 cm)
filament. The average work-to-break i8 determined by averaging
the work-to-break values of a representati~e number (i.e., 5)
of the filaments to be broken. The work-to-break in dyne-cm/cm
is equal to (X) x (Y) x (Z) x (gc) where X ~ area under the
load-elongation cur~e (cm ), y 2 load scale factor in gram
- ~orce (gf) per cm of chart, Z = elongation scale factor (Ccm)
of specimen per cm of chart, gc ~ gravitation constant
(dyne~/g~), 980 dynes/gf.
Relative Viscosity (RV)
The relative viscosity of the homopolyesters and
the copolyesters used in the examples is measured at 25C
(77~F) as the ratio of the viscosity of a solution of 0.8 g
of polymer dis~ol~ed at room temperature in 10 ml of hexa-
~luoroi~oprcpanol containing 100 ppm ~ S04 to the ~iscosity
of the ~ S04-co~taining hex~fluoroisopropanol alone.
~he relative viscos~ty of ~ylon 66 i~ measured at
25C as the ratio of the viscosity oi a solution of 5.5 g
of polymer dissolved ln 50 ml of a mixture of 90 parts of
formic acid and 10 part~ oi water to the viscosity of the
formic acid/water mixture itseli.
3
- 24 -
1~838VO
The relative viscosity of nylon homo- or copolymers
of hexamethylene dodecpmlde including that u~ed in ExQmples
lOA and 11 is measured at 25C a~ the ra~io of the vlscosity
of a solution of 5.5 e of polymer dissolved in a 50 ml Fanol
solution (50 parts phenol/50 parts formlc acid) to the Vi8-
c031ty of the Fanol solution ltself.
Fabric Bulk Determination
F~brlc thickne~s in lnches is measured at 5 g/cm2
pressure over an area of about 7 cm2. The inches are converted
to cm and bulk is calculated by dividing thickness in cm by the
fabric unit weight in g/cm , and is reported in cc/g.
Light Transmission Determinatlon
Light transmission is determined using a Durst No.
609 pro~ector (Durst SA, 301zano, Italy), a Photomultiplier
Mlcrophotometer, Cat. No. 10-211 American Instrument Co.,
Silver Spring, Md. 20900 and a Solovolt constant voltage
transformer, 0.261A, 115 V AC, Sola Electric Co., Chicago,
Ill. 60650 (or equivalent) in power supply.
The equipment is equilibrated and ca~ibrated accord-
ing to instructions by the manufacturers. In general, the
photometer is used only after being energized for at lea~t
24 hours and it is calibrated after allowing the pro~ector to
warm up at least five minutes.
Two 6" x 30" (15.2 x 76 cm~ samples of fabric are
used, one having its long d~mension along the warp, and the
~ other with itg long dimension at right angles thereto. They
- are selected from areas of the fabric no closer to the sel-
- vages than one-tenth of the fabric width. If wrinkles are
apparent, they are removed by pre~sing l1ghtly. The ~amples
are conditioned at 70 + 2F (21 ~ 1C) and 65% ~ 2% relative
hl~idity for 16 hours before te~ting.
- 2~ -
1083800
The conditioned samples without being stretched,
are carefully placed between well--cleaned glass pressure plates
and five meter readings of % transmissiol- are takc-n at differ-
ent areas along their lengths. The meter multiplier setting
required to obtain a scale reading of 15-85% and the meter
reading to the nearest 0.5% are ~ecorded. ~Prolonged ~xposure
of the photomultiplier to an amount of li~ht e~ceedins that
giving a lO0~ transmission reading must be avoided, since it
results in a reduction in sensitivity). The apparatus is re-
calibrated before testing the second sample.
The ~ light transmission is calculated by multiply-
i~g the meter reading by the multiplier setting and averaging
the five values thus obtained. The precision of repeated
measurements on the same sample is about ~ 3%.
The invention is further illustrated but is not
in~ended to be limited by the following eY.amples in wh;c~
; ' all pressure values are gauge measurements and all parts and
percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.
EXAMPLE 1
Two ends of 70 denier (7.g tex)-34 filament yarn,
comprising a basic-dyeable copoly[ethylene terephthalate/5-
(sodium sulfo) isophthalate] (98/2 weight ratio) having a
- -relative viscosity of about 16 are combined and modified using
the process shown schematically in Figure 8. The filaments
f this yarn have substantially symmetrical trilobal cross-
sections. The yarn is fed into feed rolls at a speed of
lO00 ypm (914 m/min) and passed through a wetting jet
constructed as described in U.S. Patent 3,426,406 and having
an oval yarn entrance orifice of 0.254 cm width
3 and 0.396 cm length with 0.17~ cm diameter
- 26 -
- :
1083800
round air (water) inlet orifices and well-wet with water
at a water flow rate of about 30 ml/minute. The wet yarn
is passed through two interlacing jets constructed as
described in U.S. Patent 3,426,406 and situated in tandem
about 10 cm apart. Each interlacing jet has an ova-
yarn entrance hole of 0.193 cm width and 0.305 cm length
with 0.117 cm diameter round air entrance orifices and
is operated at 175 psi (1207 kPa) pressure of air while
canted at an angle of 45 relative to the threadline. A
pair of rolls takes up the yarn At a speed of 967 ypm (884 m/min)
and feeds it to a co~stant-tension windu~ device. The
: tenacity and elongation of the yarn thus modified are
~.3 gpd (203 mN/tex) and li.6~, res~ectively. ~rhe correspond-
ing values for .he unmodified feed ~arns are 2.8 gpd ~247 mN/tex)
.. , ~, ,
15 and 21.8%. Other properties of the modified yaxn are given
in Table 5.
The modified yarn of this example and, for compari-
son, the feed yarn of this example are knitted into 18-cut
(7.1 needles/cm) Swiss Pique fabrics. These are finished `
' 20 by beck-scouring and beck-dyeing at atmospheric pressure,
- the final rinse containing 1% of a quaternary ammonium
softener. After being ~lit and dried at 250~F (121C),
fabrics are heat-set at 350F (177C) for 30 seconds
at 55" (140 cm) width and 15% overfeed, and semidecated
3 x 3. Finished weights are 258 g/m2 for the modified
~` yarn fabric and 238 g/m2 for the comparison fabric. Fabric~
... .
'
,
- 27 -
, ~,,
':
';' .
1083800
to-fabric friction coef~icients, ~,* are 0.41 for that
from the modified yarn and 0.29 for that from the compari-
son. The test .abric has a dlstinctly drier hand, a crisp
tactility and an attractive, subdued luster.
* Calculated as the average force (F) in grams required
to move a fabric-bottomed sled at 20"/min (5I cm/min) across
a horizontal, fabric-covered surface in two directions in
whi~h the face-to-face fabric movement is first in parallel
and then in 180 (opposed) orientations under a loading of
5 g/cm2 of sled area, divided by the weight of the sled
plus fabric. (/u = F/sled weight)
- EXAMPLE 2
A cospun 120 denier (13.3 tex) - 72 filament
nylon yarn prepared as described ir. Example 1 of
: U.S. Patent 3,416,302 is modified as described in
.
` Example 1 herein, except that steam is used in the ~irst
` interlacing jet. Both jets are operated at 150 psi
(1034 kPa) and the yarn is fed at 999 ypm (914 m/min) : :
`' 20 and wound up at 983 ypm ~899 m/min). The properties of
the resulting yarn are given in Table 5.
, :`'
.
,
,. ' .
: .
3o
. .
: - 2~ -
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1083800
A 22-cut (8.7 needles/cm) Swiss Pique fabric is
made from this yarn. It is finished to 58"(147 cm) width
with 35 wales, 44 courses per inch (14,17 per cm) and a
weight of 212 g/m2. Finishing procedure consists of he~t
setting the slit fabric at 375~ (l90~C) for 45 seconds
at 60" (152 cm) width with 30% overfeed, tack-sewing the
fabric to tube form, solvent scouring at 180F (82C)
and pressure dyeing in a jet-beck at 250F (121C). After
being siit and dried at 250F (121C), the fabric is heat-
set at 350F (177C) for 45 seconds at 58" (147 cm) widthusing 7.5% overfeed. The finished fabric is found to have
a soft, spun-like feel.
EXAM~LE ~
Two ends of 70 denier t7.8 tex)-26 filament yarn,
having an equal number of nylon 66 and polytethylene
terephthalate) filaments having substantially symmetrical
trilobal cross-sections are used. The polyester represents
60% by weight of the yarn and has a relative viscosity of
19 while the nylon represents 40~ by weight of the yarn and
.-.;
~ 20 has a relative viscosity of 50. The two ends are combined
. ~:
and modified as described in Example 1 except that 150 psi
(1034 kPa) steam is used in the first jet and the speeds
of the feed rolls and the take-up rolls are 1000 ypm
.
:~'
.
- 29 -
, ,-
10838U0
t914 m/min) and 986 ypm (902 m/min), respectiv~ly. The
resulting yarn has a tenacity and elongation of 3.5 gpd
(309 m~/tex) and 20.5~, respectively. The values for the
corresponding unmodified feed yarn are 3.S gpd (345 ml~/tex)
and 24.4~. Other properties of the resulting yarn are
given in Table 5.
A crow's foot weave fabric is made using the
modified yarn of this example as filling with an unmodified
commercial 70-34 nylon 65 warp. For comparison purposes,
a similar fabric is made using two ends of the unmodified
feed yarn as filling. Loom construction is 120 ends x 94
; picks. The fabrics are finished by scouring and dyeing
under standard co,ditions for n,~lon 66 and are subsequently
dried and heat-set on a clip frame at 375~F (19QC) for
1 minute at 1" (2.54 cm) over wet width. The fabric
produced from the yarn of this example has a fabric-to-
fabric friction coefficient, ~ calculated as described in
Example 1, of 0.72 vs 0.59 for the fabric produced from
the unmodified feed yarn.
EXAMPLE 4
This example illustrates how varying average
interval length and percent node length in the yarn effects
cover in fabrics.
A 140 denier (15.5 tex)-68 filament yarn of a
basic-dyeable, octalobal cross-section copoly[ethylene
- terephthalate/5-(sodium sulfo)isophthalate](98/2 weight
ratio) having a relative viscosity of 16 is modified as in
~` Example 1 except that each jet has a yarn passage having
an oval shape with a 0.157 cm width and a 0.254 cm length
and a circular air passage of 0.097 cm diameter. The first
' . `
_ 30 _
` ` " ~ " : ~`
1083800
jet wets the ~arn as described in Exam~le 1 and the
second and third jets tightly entangle the yarn at 180 psi
(1241 k~a) o~ air pressure each. Windup (jet-output) speed
is luu~) ypm (914 m/min) .
Three lots of product are made at varying input
speeds. These yarns and the unmodified feed yarn are
knitted into 22-cut (8.7 needles/cm) interlock fabrics
which are finished by steam calendering twice at 6" (15.2 cm~
under dry width with 22~ overfeed to allow for gradual
shrinkage. Fabrics are then beck-scoured and atmospheric-
pressure dyed under standard conditions for basic-dyeable
polyester. After drying, the fabrics are steam calendered
twic~ at 26"(66 c~) and 28 ~71 cm), respectively, with
maximum overfeed, and heat-set at 340F (171C) at 62"(157 cm)
: 15 width and 15% overfeed. Fabric characteristics are:
'~ '.~ .
.
: 30
: . ~
- 31 -
108381)0
,,~
a) ~ N ~ ~ OD
E. -~l u~ coc~
P~ ~
)~
Q v
h ~ U
a~ 'v t~
, '
.
.
~ ~, ~1 ~ ~ ~ ,
.,
t~' li . . . I
r o
G) ~ ~1
C) ~ H
.. ~ a)l ~ ~ ~ ,a~
.~:. O,
8 ~ :
i , Q, C~;~ O; ~ ~ ~ ~
,
':
- 32 _
~`
- ~ :
1~83800
Hence, an lncreaRe in percent node length results
in an increase in both bulk and co~er (the latter being
reflected in the air permeabllity of the fabr~cs as
measured by ASTM Method D-737-46).
EXAMPLE 5
This example illustraies the suitabillty oi a
cospun polyester yarn as feed.
An ethylene terep~lthalate/5-(sodlum sulfo) i~o-
phthalate (98/2 weight ratio) copolymer of 15R~ and an
ethylene terephthalate/glutarate (87.5/12.5 weight r~tio)
copolymer oi 32 RV are ~eparately melted and 13 ~ilQments
of each extruded at a spinneret temperature o~ 295~C to form a
26-i~lament composite yarn. me glu~arate copolymer is spun
through a splnneret as taught in the Holland U.S. Patent
2,939,201 to yield trilobal filaments having a modification
ratio of about 2.1; the other 13 filaments are round. The
yarn is air quenched and drawn to 330% of its as-spun length
in a ~et supplied with ?20C 80 psi (552 kPa) steam to y~eld
a 70-denier t7.8 tex) yarn. The yarn is pasæed from an un-
heated draw roll at 3500 ~pm (3200 m/min) to a second set of
rolls runnlng at the same speed and heated to 266F (130C).
The ya~n i8 lnterlaced as described in the Bunting et al
U.S. Patent 2,985, 995 and wound up.
Two ends of this yarn are combined and modiiied
by the general procedure oi Example 1 by being ied at a
speed of 1033 ypm (94~ m/min) through an interlacing Jet
operated at an air pressure o~ 185 psi (1276 kPa) and
~und up at a ~peed Or 1002 ypm (916 m/min). l~e properties
of the resulting modiried yarn are giYen in Table 5.
- 33 -
108;380~
The modi~ied yarn of this example and, for com-
parison, two ends of the unmodlfied feed yarn are knitted
into 22-cut (8.7 needles/cm) single ~ersey fabrics. These
are finished e~sentially as described ln Example 4, except
that final heat setting is done at 50" (127 cm) width with
10% overfeed. A heather effect i8 achieved by dyeing only
the basic-dyeable filament~ in the fabric. Fabric weight and
bulk are 143g/m2 and 3.4 cc/g for the modified iabric and
156 g/m and 2.8 cc/g for the comparison fabric. In addition
to a dryer hand, the modifled fabric has a ~iner heather
appearance.
EXAMP1E 6
A 150 denier (16.7 tex)-68 f lament yarn of poly
(ethylene terephthalate) having a relative viscosity of
22 is modified as in ~x~mrle 1 by belng wetted and fed at
1030 ypm (942 m/min) to t~ interlacing Jets in tandem,
each h~Ying an oval yarn passage having a width of 0.157
cm and a length of 0.25~ cm with a round gas orifice O.Og7 cm
in diameter, and each operated at 190 psi (1310 kPa) air
pressure. The yarn is withdrawn a~ 1000 ypm (914 m/min) and
wound up and its properties are given in Table 5.
The modified yQrn, the unmodified feed yarn and
a false-twist set-textured (FTST) yarn of identical com-
po~ition and count are all knitted to 28-cut (11.0 needles/
cm) IaCoste fabrics. These are f$nished by tumble-relaxlng
- 34 -
1083800
at l99~F (93C) for 30 minutes, jet-scouring and dyeing
at atmospheric pressure under standard conditions for
disperse-dyeable polyester, steam calendering and h~at-
setting at 350F (177C) for 30 seconds at about 66"
(167 cm) width and about 10% overfeed.
TABLE 2
Fabric Characteristics
Yarn WeightAir Permeability
Used g/m2 m3/~in/m2 _
Flat (feed yarn) 180 339
Modified 180 237
FTST 170 91
The fabrics made of the modified yarn and the FTST
yarn have a crisp dry hand as compared with the slick
~ 15 tactility of the fabric prepared from the flat yarn. The
;~ fabric prepared from the modified yarn has a much higher
air permeability than the FTST yarn fabric. Air permeability
; (as measured by ASTM Method D-737-46) is a primary factor
~- in the summer comfort of fabrics.
~ 20 The fabrics made of the modified yarn and the
- FTST yarn are tested on the ICI MACE Snag Tester as
described by Leung and Hershkowitz in the Textile Research
- Journa~ Volume 45, #2, page 93, February, 1975, and found
to have the following ratings on a 1-5 scale, where 5 is
, the best: Modified yarn fabric: 2.4 wale direction,
-~ 2.7 course direction; comparison fabric made from FTST yarn
, was rated 1.0 in both direction.
The fabrics are also treated as follows. They
are first washed twice in a home-type washing machine and,
` 30 after being dried, they are soaked in acetone overnight.
..,
~, . .
- 35 -
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1(~838()0
The f~brics are wrung out, dried and soaked in a mixture
containing five volumes of water and one volume of a
wickins agent such as that prepared by reacting a melamine
form~ldchydc condensate with a iong chain alkanol or a
polyethylene glycol. After being dried, the fabrics are
cured at 347F (175C) for 1 minute, and are "C" washed
for the number of times given below and tested for
wicking rate. (A "C" wash is done in a home-type washing
machine at high water level [17 gal (64.5 1)l with 5
minutes agitation, using 100F (38C) water and 30 g
detergent. The fabrics are dried in a home-type dryer for
30 minutes at 160F (71C) and for 5 minutes without heat.
If to be rated for wash-wear, the fabrics are removed
promptly and hung.)
~15 Water wicking rates are measured according to
the procedure described in U.S. 3,774,387 with the follow-
ing modifications. A 2" (5.08 cm) diameter circle of
fabric is mounted on the polytetrafluoroethylene form
shown in Fig. 2 of U.S. 3,774,387 by taping it across the
back. Dimensions of the form are as given for Fig. 2
except dimension 12 which is 3.4 cm. A fabric surface of
about 15.7 cm2 is thus formed. The back side of the form
covered with fabric is glued to the bottom of a 300 g
weight (500 g weight given in patent). The apparatus given
in the patent is used but the top of the fritted glass
plate is positioned at the same height as the top surface
of the horizontal reservoir. The fabric-covered form/weight
- assembly is put on the fritted glass and the movement of
the meniscus in tube 23 of Fig. 3 of U.S. 3,774,387 is
I 30
.
- 36 -
1083800
observed and recorded at appropriate intervals. The
initial wicking rate in ml/sec is then determined.
Results are:
,` '` .
.,
:,
- 37 -
~0838oo
I~u~l -e X e x
~J
LL` ~
~ ~ l o o o o o
~ o ~ ~l ~t.
~ ~o ~ x x x x x ~:
~ -~ ~ u~
,~
~y
r~
.: ~ ~ lo 1~ 1~o 1 1~ ' ~.
FL :C X X '~ X ',
. ~
. ~ ~o co ,I r
: ~ .
. u sl o o 1 ~ o o -
` O ~d
,', Z;
.~ ~ 1::
., rl ~ ~ ~
,: , ,1 ~ , U . _ . :.
. . ~F. 3 +f'; . :'
~J o a) ' :
O O a~
Q ~ ~ S ~:
. , ~ U ~ ~t
~ ~ 3
, ' ' ' :: ' ',': '
"`. ~,~ '
. 38
.
. , .
. ' !
.
'; ' ', , " ."' ~, ~ '. '' : '
~ .
.
338~
EXAMPL~ 7
; A 7Q denier (7.8 te~)-34 filament yarn of poly
(ethylene terephthalate) having a relative viscosity of
~2 is modlfied as described in Example 6 to yi~ld a yarr
having the properties given in Table 5.
The yarn is woven into a plain weave ninon fabric,
loom construction is 64 ends x 64 picks. The greige fabric
is heat-set at 350F (177C) for 30 seconds, bleached and
dried under standard conditions used for polyester. Finished
`10 weight i.s 44 g/m2. This ~abric and a comparison commercial
;: ninon polyester fabric having a weight of 47 g/m2 are given
10 "C" washes as described in Example 6 and rated subjectively
~ after 1, 3, S and 10 washes for wash-wear characteristics
': (absence of wrinkling). The rating is on a scale o, 1-5,
i15 5 being complete absence of wrinkles. The resul~s reported
below are the average of ratings by two people comparin~
. .
~ againsk care~ully rated standards similar to AATCC's
1~ standards 124-1967T.
:`
TABLE 4
~20 Fabric Wash-Wear Ratin~
Wash No. Modified Comparison
~ 1 4.~ 2.2
-~' 3 3.~ 2.0
~ 5 3,7 2.0
2.8 2.0
X~MPLE 8
A dull, antistatic 70 denier (7.8 te~ 34 Eila~
ment yarn of nylon 66 having a .relative viscos.ity of about
43 is wetted and fed through two interlacing jets in ~ande~
as described in Example 3 except that each jet is modified
- 39 -
~, .
1083800
to accommodate a small ceramic pin at the yarn entrance to
minimize wear. The yarn is accumulated at a wind-up
speed of 1000 ypm (914 m/min) with a feed speed of 1025 ~pm
(937 m/Juin). The alr ~ressure in the interlacing jets s
150 psi (1034 kPa). The properties of the resulting modified
yarn are given in Table 5.
The modified yarn and, for comparison, the feed
yarn of this example, are knitted on a 2-bar tricot machine
using jersey stitch, runners 68"/44" (173 cm/112 cm) and
quality 9" (23 cm). The fabrics are scoured one pass open
width, relaxed, at 210F ~99C), beck-dyed under standard
nylon 66 conditions, and heat-set at 400F (204C) at 45
wales and 47 courses per inch (18,19/cm). Weights are
112 g/m2 for both fabrics. The modified fabric has a
crepe-like look with an attractive speckled or grainy
effect and has a crisp dry hand. The comparison fabric
is slick to the touch and uniformly shiny.
. .
EXAMPLE 9 -
... .
- This example illustrates the use of a splittable
bicomponent feed yarn. Bicomponent spinning is well known.
in the art as evidenced by U.S. Patent 3,038,235.
` Side-by-side-bicomponent yarn composed substan- ~-
tially of 30% nylon 66 containing 10~ rutile TiO2 as one
component and 70% poly(ethylene terephthalate) as the other -~-
~; is spun as described below. The relative viscosities of
the polymers are 45 and 32, respectively.
., :
Each polymer is melted in a screw melter and
-~ metered to a spinneret in which the melts are metered into
each hole from adjacent, concentric channels at rates to
provide the desired filament denier and polymer ratios.
: :
. ,
- 40 -
1~83800
Temperatures in the screw melters range (feed to discharge)
from 260 to 290C for the the polyester and from 40 to
2~0 for the nyloll. Block and spinneret temperatures are
290C. An aqueous finish containing 50 parts of mineral
oil, 20 parts of sulfonated peanut oil and 20 parts of
potassium oleate is applied. A 400-denier (44.4 tex) 34-
filament yarn is wound up at 400 ypm (366 m/min).
The yarn is further processed on a Whitin RK draw
winder modified by having an interlacing jet mounted horizon-
tally between the draw roll and the relaxation roll as shown
in Figure 5. The int,erlacing jet is similar to that shown
in Figures 11 and 12 and Example III of U.S. Patent
3,364,537, the difference being that instead of ~he two
guide air conduits 67 of the patent, the jet has four guide
air conduits, each directed toward the yarn passage and at
- a 45 angle to the jet base. Air is fed to the orifices
- at a pressure of 60 psi (414 kPa).
The draw-winder feed rolls are operated at a
surface speed of 77 ypm (71 m/min) and the draw rolls at
258 ypm (236 m/min) and the yarn is drawn 3.3X over a hot
plate at a temperature of 120C. The relaxation
rolls are driven at 252 ypm (231 m/min) representing an
overfeed to the jet of 2.3%. The yarn is wound up at 243
ypm (222 m/min), representing a windup relaxation of the
-~ 25 yarn of 3.7~.
The properties of the resulting modified yarn are
given in Table 5.
EXAMPLE 10
This example illustrates the use of a cospun feed
yarn composed of both bicomponent and single-component filaments.
- 41 -
1083800
A~ The composite yarn has 9 filaments of a
copolymer of 70% poly(hexamethylene dodecamide) and 30~
poly(hexamethylene terephthalamide) having a relative vis-
cosity of 35.6 and 27 ~icom~onent ~ilaments of the ~ame
s copolymer as one component (50%) and nylon 66 having a
relative viscosity of 45 as the other, The copolymer is
screw melted over a temperature range of 250C to 295C and
the nylon 66 is screw melted over a temperature range of
240C to 280C. The block and spinneret temperatures are
300C. The 400 denier (44 .4 tex)-36 f;lament yarn is wound
up at 500 ypm (457 m~min).
The modified draw winder of Example 9 is used
to process the yarn further. Feed roll speed is 71 ypm
(65 m/min) and draw roll speed is 250 ypm (229 m/min)
and the ya~n is drawn 3 . 5X over a hot plate at a tempera-
ture of 120C. Jet air pressure is 80 psi (552 kPa).
The speed of the relaxation rolls is 216 ypm (198 m/min)
(15 . 7% overfeed to the jet). The yarn is wound up at
:~ 220 ypm ( 201 m/min) .
: . .
The properties of- the resulting mod~fied yarn
are giVen in Table 5.
B. ~ second 400 denier (44.4 te~ -36 filament
yarn is prepared substantially as in ~. above and contains
9 filaments of a 60 RV nylon 66 and 27 bicomponent fila-
'~ 25 ments of equal weights of the same nylon 66 and 30 RV poly
(ethylene terephthalate). Screw melter temperatures are
250C - 285C for both components. Block and spinneret
temperatures are 300C. The yarn is wound up at 500 ypm
~ (457 m/min).
- 30 The modified draw winder of Example 9 is used
. ~
- - 42 -
1083800
to prepare a yarn of this invention using an air pressure
of 80 psi (552 kPa) in the jet. Feed roll speed is
55 ypm (51 m/min) and draw roll speed is 250 ypm t229 m/min)
and the yarn is drawn 4.5X over a cold pin. Relaxation
roll speed is 230 ypm (210 m/min) (8.7~ overfeed to the
jet). The yarn is wound up at 226 ypm (207 m/min) (1.7%
windup relaxation of the yarn). The properties of the
resulting m~dified yarn are given in Table 5.
ExAMæLE 11
The feed of this example is a cospun yarn com-
posed of both bicomponent and single-component filaments.
This composite yarn has 9 filaments of a copolymer of
70~ poly(hexamethylene dodecamide) and 30% poly(hexamethy-
lene terephthalamide) having a relative viscosity of 35.6
and 27 bicomponent filaments of the same copolymer as one
component (50~) and poly(ethylene terephthalate) having
; a relative viscosity of 30 as the other. The filaments
of the 400 denier (44.4 tex)-36 filament yarn have substantiallv
symmetrical trilobal cross sections and are spun and wound
up at 500 ypm (457 m/min).
The modified draw wlnder of Example 9 is used
to process the yarn further. Feed roll speed is 89 ypm
~,,!
(81 m/min), and draw roll speed is 259 ypm (237 m/min)
with 2.9X draw over a 3" hot plate at 150C. The air
pressure through the ~et, located 12" (30 cm) from the
draw rolls and between the draw rolls and the relaxation
r-,
~, rolls, is 80 psi (552 kPa). The relaxation roll speed is
:.;
: 238 ypm (218 m/min). The yarn is wound up at 228 ypm
, . . .
(208 m/min) and has 21 ends per inch (8.3 ends per cm) and
a breaking strength oflll lbs (494 N). Other properties
43
,-.
,
1083800
of the modified yarn are given in Table 5.
EXAMPLE 12
~ .~o ends of 70 denier (7.8 tex)-34 filament
poly(ethylene terephth~late) (rel~tive viscosity of 22)
yarn having filaments of round cross-section are pro-
cessed by the procedure described in Example 1 except that
the yarn is wound up at a speed of 962 ypm (880 m/min).
The properties of the resulting modified yarn are given
in Table 5.
EXAMæLE 13
- A 150 denier (16.6 tex)-94 filament yarn made
from poly(ethylene terephthalate) having a relative viscosity
of about 12 is modified as in Example 1 except that the ~ -
yarn is fed from feed rolls at a speed of 1029 ypm (941 m/min) ~ -
through the wetting jet and then through 2 interlacing jets
having round air-passages of 0.079 cm diameter and round -
yarn-passages of 0.193 cm diameter. The interlacing jets ~-
-/ are operated at 180 psi (1241 kPa) air pressure. The
modified yarn is abraded with a Norton abrader A-38 made
of 32 "Alundum" in 60-120 grit prior to windup. The
windup speed is 1000 ypm (914 m/min). The abrader contact
angle and speed are controlled at 20 and 6600 rpm, respec-
/ tively. The yarn tension downstream of the abrader is
i adjusted at 373 mN.
... . . . .
The resulting yarn having 14.5 ends per inch (5.7
; ends per cm), an average free end length of 2.9 mm (13.1%
are greater than 6 mm) and a breaking strength of 72 lbs
~1 (320 N) has enhanced spun~ e character. It also has a
;, coefficient of variation (% C.V.) of denier of 4.8~ as
measured under standard conditions at 100 ypm (91 m/min)
.~,
~. _
- 44 _
.,
1083800
with an Uster Evenness Tester, type GGP-B21, made
by Zellweger Ltd. of Switzerland and a % C.V. of strength
of 0.0~ as measured under standard c~nditions with an
Uster Automatic Yarn Strength Tcster, Model ST 2 57112-
3030, made by Zellweger Ltd. of Switzerland. A comparison
yarn spun from 3 dpf (.33 tex/filament) 2.2" (i.5 cm)
poly(ethylene terephthalate) staple has a ~ C.V. of denier
of 24.4~ and a ~ C.V. of streng~h of 18.2%.
EXAMæLE 14
Two ends of a 70 denier (7.8 tex)-50 filament
yarn of copolylethylene terephthalate/5-(sodium SU1fO)
isophthalate~ (98/2 weight ratio) having a relative viscosity
of 16 are processed by the procedure described in Example 1
except that the interlace jets are operated at a pressure
; 15 of 80 psi (552 kPa) pressure of steam in the first jet and
air in the second, and the take-up rolls withdraw the
modified yarn at 975 ypm (892 m/min). The properties of
the resulting yarn are given in Table 5. --
~` EXAMPLE 15
.
A 500 denier(55.6 tex)-141 filament yarn spun
from a poly(ethylene terephthalate) polymer having a relative
-~- viscosity of 22 is modified as described in Example 1 but is
fed through the jets at a speed of 1039 ypm (950 m/min).
Both interlacing jets are operated at an air pressure of
165 psi (1138 kPa). The modified yarn is wound up at a
speed of 1000 ypm (914 m/min). The properties of the modi-
! fied yarn are given in Table 5.
EXAMPLE ~6
A 30 denier (3.3 tex)-26 filament nylon 66 yarn
made from flake having a relative viscosity of 29 is modified
',
- 45 -
,
10838()0
as described in Example 1 but is fed through the jets at a
speed of 1025 yprn (937 m/min) while the interlacing jets
are operated at an air pressure of 150 psi (1034 k~a) and
have a circular yarn passage diameter of Q.158 cm and a roun~
air orifice diameter of 0.079 cm. The yarn is wound up at
1000 ypm (914 m/min). The prop~rties of the resulting yarn
are given in Table 5.
EXAMPLE 17
.
An 840 denier (93.2 tex)-140 filament feed yarn
spun from nylon 66 having a relati~e viscosity of 62 is
m~dified as described in Example 1 except that jets having
the structure of the Example 1 wetting jet are used as the
interlacing jets and a jet having the structure of the
.i
Example 1 interlacing jets is used as the wetting jet. The
yarn is fed through the jets at a speed of 1000 ypm (914 m/min)
while the first interlacing jet is operated at a steam pressure ~
of 175 psi (1207 kPa) and the second interlaciny jet is operated
at an air pressure of 175 psi (1207 kPa). The yarn is wound
up at 980 y~m (896 m/min). The properties of the resulting
yarn are given in Table 5.
EXA~LE 18
A dry-spun 63 denier (7.0 tex)-36 filament acrylic
yarn having a relative viscosity of 26 (measured at 25C
` as the ratio of the viscosity of a solution of 0.5 g of
, 25 polymer [or fiber] dissolved in 10 ml of dimethyl acetamide
-~ containing 5~6 LiCl to the viscosity of the LiCl-containing
'.`! dimethyl acetamide alone) is modified as described in Example 6,
except that 80 psi (552 kPa) pressure of air is applied by
both interlacing jets and the speeds of the feed rolls and
:.'
take-up rolls are 1030 ypm (942 m/min) and 997 ypm (912 m/min),
. "
_ 46 -
. .
1083800
respectively. The properties of the resulting yarn are
given in Table 5.
EY,AMPLE 19
A 150 denier (16.7 tex)~40 filament cellulose
acetate yarn having an intrinsic viscosity of 1~6 deter-
mined at 25C in dimethyl acetamide is modified as in
Example 6 except that the speeds of the feed rolls and the
take-up rolls are 1034 ypm (946 m/min) and 1019 ypm (932 m/min),
respectively, and the air pressure in the interlacing jets
is 15Q psi (1034 kPa). The properties of the resulting
yarn are given in Table 5.
EXAMPLE 20
One end of a 100 denier (11.1 tex)-20 fiiament
yarn of poly(ethylene terephthalate) having a RV of 22
and another end of a 70 denier (7.8 tex)-34 filament yarn
of the same polymer having a RV of 12 are combined and modi-
fied by the general procedure of Example 1, except that
only a single entangling jet is used and the jet is opera-
ted at 350 psi (2413 kPa) of air. The yarns are fed to the
`~ 20 jet at a speed of 1020 ypm (933 m/min) and wound up at a
speed of 1000 ypm (91~ m/min).
The resulting effect yarn has 38.6 ends per inch
(15~2 ends per cm) and a breaking strength of 151 lbs
~672 N) with a coefficient of denier variation of 4.17g6
(measured as in Example 13) . Other properties of this yarn
are given in Tables 5 and 6.
In this example, essentially all free ends are
produced from the filaments of 12 RV polymer.
EX~MPLE 21
This example exemplifies the preparation of an
-- ~l7 --
1083800
effect yarn from feed yarns of filaments having two different
deniers and RV's and the preparation of a range of fabrics
from the effect yarn showning the utility of these yarns in
giving superior bulk and coverin~ power over ~abric produced
from unmodified yarn.
One end of a 100 denier (11.1 tex)-20 filament
yarn of copoly[ethylene terephthalate/5-(sodium-solfo)
isophthalate] (98/2 weight ratio) having a RV of 15 and
another end of a 70 denier (7.8 tex)-34 filament yarn of
poly(ethylene terephthalate) having a RV of 11 are combined
; and modified by the general procedure of Example 20 except
that the jet is operated at 300 psi (2068 kPa) of '~`12. The
yarns are fed to the jet at a speed of 10~0 ypm (933 m/min) ~-
and a wind-up at a speed of 1000 ypm (914 m/min). The ~ -
resulting yarn properties are given in Tables 5 and 6.
The effect yarn of this example is knitted into
`; 18 cut Ponte de Roma fabric. This is finished by Jawatex
~ :
scour at 180F (82C) followed by heat-setting at 350F
~~ (177~C) for 30 seconds at 55.5" (141 cm) width with 6~ over-
., .
feed. The fabric is dyed in a Hisaki jet dyer at 250F
(121C) under standard conditions for disperse-dyeable
. . ~
... .
` polyester and is dried and heat set in one step at 365F
.. .
-- (185C) at 50" (126 cm) width with 7~ overfeed. The
fabric has a weight of 8.5 oz/yd2 (288 g/m2) and bulk of
3.8 cc/g. Air permeability is 275 ft3/min/ft2 (84 m2/min/m2).
'' Pilling resistance of the fabric as determined by the Random
~ Tumble Pill Test (ASTM D-1375) is excellent, ratin~s of 4.0,
~5~
3.8, 4.5 are obtained after 10,20 and 30 minutes of tumbling.
The fabric has a warm spun-like hand.
The yarn of this example is also converted into
4 8
.
,
1083t~1~0
28-cut La Coste and plain jersey fabrics. The formcr is
knit to 4.3 oz/yd2 (146 g/m2) steamed ~eight, the latter to
3.5 oz/yd2 (119 g/m2) boi]ed-off weight. The La Coste is
finished by Jawatex scouriny at 180F (82C), jet ~couring
and pressure dyeing at 250F tl21C) under standard condi-
tions for disperse-dyeable poly_ster, steam-calendering and
heat-setting at 350F (177C) for 30 seconds at 74" (1~8 cm)
width and 5% overfeed. The single jersey is finished by
scouring and bleaching under standard conditions used for
polyester followed by drying at wet width at 250E (121C)
and heat setting at 350F (177C) for 30 seconds at 59"
(150 cm) and 8% over feed.
Fabric properties are:
Weight Bulk Air Permeability ~ Light
~ 15 g/m2 oz/yd2 cc/g m3/min/m2Transmission
; La Coste 156 4.6 6.9 230 10.2
Jersey 112 3.3 5.7 160 16.4
To demonstrate the covering power as measured by
% light transmission and the bulk of fabric prepared from
the effect yarns of this example, the La Coste fabric was
compared to other 28-cut La Coste fabrics prepared from
140 denier (15.5 tex)-68 filament unmodified yarn and a 177
denier (19.6 tex) (30/1 cc) poly(ethylene terephthalate)/
cott~n (65/35) spun yarn:
Wei~ht Bulk Air ~ermeability~ Light
Yarn Type oz/yd (g/m2) cc/g m~/min~m2 Transmission
Unmodified 5.3(180) 4.3 340 15.0
- Effect 4.6(156) 6.9 230 10.2
Spun 4.6(156) 6.2 150 6.6
The fabric made from the effect yarn has substantially
.
- 49 -
1083800
higher bulk and covering power than that prepared from the
unmodified yarn even though the latter contains much more
yarn ~greater weight). The effect yarn fabric is almost
equivalent to a fabric prepared rom a commercial spun yarn.
` 5 In addition, the fabric uniformity is superior to that of
fabric prepared from spun yarn because of its superior denier
uniformity.
EXAM~LE 22
This example exemplifies the preparation of an
effect yarn prepared from feed yarns of filaments having the
same RV but mixed dpf. The feed yarn in this example is spun
side-by-side, the low dpf from one spinneret and the high dpf
, from another. The two ends are combined on the spinning
, machine and wound up as a single bundle.
; 15 A co-spun 104 denier (11.5 tex)-13 filament/ 70
i denier (7.8 tex)-34 filament yarn of copoly[ethylene
terephthalate/5-(sodium-sulfo)isophthalate] (98/2 weight
ratio) having an RV of 12 is modified by the general
procedure of Example 20 except that the jet is operated at
525 psi ~3620 kPa) of N2. The yarn is fed to the jet at ~-
` a speed of 1011 ypm (924 m/min) and wound up at a speed of
1000 ypm (914) m/min). The properties of the resulting yarn
are given in Tables 5 and 6.
EXAMPLE 23
.,
This example exemplifies the use of a single RV,
single dpf feed yarn for producing a strong modified yarn
with free ends.
,fj Three ends of 150 denier (16.7 tex)-~4 filament
yarn of poly(ethylene terephthalate) having an RV of 11 are
combined and modified by the general procedure of Example 21
,,
,
- 50 -
.~ .
.... ~ .
.
1083800
exce~t that the jet is operated at 350 psi (2413 kPa) air.
The yarns are fed to the jets at a speed of 1020 ypm (933 m/min)
and wound up at a speed of 1000 ypm (914 m/min). The proper-
ties of the yarn resulting from this treatment are sho~rn in
Tables 5 and 6.
EXAMEtLE 24
This example exemplies the preparation of an
effect yarn from feed yarns of filaments having two different
cross sections, and the preparation of a woven fabric demon-
strating the superior covering power of the effect yarns.
One end of a 40 denier (4.4 tex)-8 filament yarn
of poly(ethylene terephthalate) having an RV of 22, the
filaments of which have round cross-secticns, and one end
of a 40 denier (4.4 tex)-27 filament yarn of copoly[ethylene
terephthalate/5-(sodium sulfo)isophthalate] having an RV
of 15, the filaments' of which have substantially symmetrical
trilobal cross-sections, are combined and modified by the
~-~ general procedure of Example 21 except that the jet is opera-
.
ted at 325 psi (2241 kPa1 of N2. The properties of the result-
ing yarn are listed in Tables 5 and 6. The yarn is converted
f~ into a plain weave fabric. Loom construction is 80 ends
; ,
per inch (epi) x 68 picks per inch (ppi) [32 ends per cm
-~ (e/cm) x 27 picks per cm (p/cm)]. The greige fabric is heat
~; set at 340F (171C) for 20 seconds l't (2.5 cm) under width
~ 25 and 2~ overfeed, bleached and dried under standard conditions
x~ used for polyester. The fabric is given a light singe, and
.. ~
is cold calendered and semi-decated 1 x 1. Finished weight
is 1.7 oz/yd2 (57.7 g/m2). The cover of this fabric as
measured by % light transmission as compared to that of a
commercial poly(ethylene terephthalate)/cotton (63/35) of
., .
~ .
- 51 -
,~'- .
, ~. .
.. . .
, .: . ,
1083800
similar constru~tion but higher weight is found to be better:
Wei ht Construction% Light
Fabric ~ e/cm x p/cmTransmission
Effect yarn 57.7 35 x 29 11.3
Commercial 74.7 35 x 30 16.6
EXAMPLE 25
This example exemplifies the use of feed yarns of
filaments prepared from two different polymer types to
- produce a strong modified yarn with free ends.
10. One end of a 1~0 denier (11.1 tex)-20 filament
- yarn of poly(ethylene terephthalate? having a RV of 22 and
. one end of a 55 denie'r (6.1 tex)-24 filament yarn of
cellulose acetate (Acele acetate, Type C) are combined and
modified by the general procedure of Example 1. Both jets
are operated at 170 psi (1172 kPa) and the yarns are fed
at 1030 ypm (942 m/min) and wound up at 1000 ypm (914 m/min).
. The properties of the resulting yarn are given in Tables 5 . -
~' and 6.
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-- 54 _
1083800
So far, this detailed description has referred to
application of the invention to yarns of the type
that are useful in making woven, knitted or other fabrics,
in other words to drawn yarns. As indicated in the following
Example, however, the invention is also ap~licable to partially
oriented yarns, such as are available commercially, being
obtained by melt spinning at relatively high speeds, pref-
erably in excess of 2500 m/min, and are used commercially as
feed yarns for simultaneous draw-texturing. Such yarns
include polyester yarns having a birefringence of about
0.025 to about 0.05, and nylon yarns having a birefringence
of about 0.04 to about 0.05.
EXAMPLE 26
A 255 denier (28.1 tex)-68 filament draw-texturing
feed yarn of poly(ethylene terephthalate) of 22 RV having
a birefringence of 0.040 (measured as in British Patent -
No. 1,406,810, pages 5 and 6) is modified as described in
Example 1, except that the wetting jet has a round yarn
entrance orifice of 0.193 cm diameter with round air (water)
entrance orifices of 0.079 cm diameter, each interlacing jet
has an oval yarn entrance hole of 0.157 cm width and 0.254 cm
length with 0.097 cm diameter round air entrance orifices
and is operated at 180 psi (1241 kPa) pressure of air, and
that the takeup speed is 975 ypm (892 m/min).
The resulting modified yarn has 34% of its length
entangled in nodes averaging 3.9 mm in length and having a
retentivity of 94~. The average interval length is 7.7 mm.
This modified yarn is draw-textured on a commercial
Leesona 570 false-twist texturing machine, modified for
simultaneous drawing and texturing as described in
. . .
- 55 -
', ~
... . .
:-' . .. .
- . ~ ., . .~ ' l .
10~38t~0
Piazza & Reese U.S. Patent No. 3,722,872, being fed at a
speed of 90 ypm (82 m/min), drawn at a draw ratio of 1.57X,
with a first heater at a temperature of 420F (216C) and a
spindle speed of l9S,000 rpm to give a yarn twist level of
60 tpi (23.6 turns/cm), set using a second heater at a
temperature of 400F (204C) with 15% overfeed, and then
wound up using an underfeed of 4%.
The draw-textured modified yarn of this Example
and, for comparison,some draw-textured unmodified draw-
texturing feed yarnfor this Example are knitted into 18-cut
(7.1 needles/cm) Ponte de Roma fabrics. These are finished
by Jawatex scouring at 208F (98C) at open width, and dyed in
a Hisaki Jet Dyer using standard conditions for disperse-
dyeable polyester yarn, and heat set at 350F (177C) for
45 sec. Finished weights are 264 g/m2 for the modified
yarn fabric and 258 g/m2 for the comparison fabric. Both
fabrics have a similar bulk of 3.8 cc/g. The test fabric
has a drier tactility and a more spun-like appearance.
As shown in this Example, the draw-textured yarn
prepared from modified draw-texturing feed yarn is useful
in preparing fabrics having a similar bulk but a more
spun-like tactility and appearance than those from draw-
textured yarn prepared from the unmodified draw-texturing
feed yarn, because of the presence of the nodes.
It is important to carry out the draw-texturing
simultaneously. If the modified draw-texturing feed yarn
is merely drawn, or drawn and textured sequentially, it is
difficult to retain the nodes.
It will be undexstood that effect yarns with free
ends can also be prepared using draw-texturing feed yarns.
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1083800
The free ends are preferably created by stretch-breaking
during the draw-texturing operation. For this purpose,
the draw-texturing feed yarns preferably contain a mixture
of component yarns having differing break elongations.
When the invention is applied to
partially oriented yarns that are subsequently destined for
simultaneous draw-texturing, the levels of entanglement
and retentivity can be lower than indicated above for
drawn yarn. Such partially oriented yarns, however, pref-
erably have nodes comprising an average of at least 10% of
the yarn length and a retentivity of at least about 50~
The subsequent simultaneous draw-texturing introduces more
retentivity in the final draw-textured yarns.
Although the invention has been described in
~ 15 considerable detail in the foregoing, it is to be under-
.~ stood that such detail is solely for the purpose of
: illustration and that variations can be made therein by
those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit
and scope of the invention.
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