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Sommaire du brevet 1188529 

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Disponibilité de l'Abrégé et des Revendications

L'apparition de différences dans le texte et l'image des Revendications et de l'Abrégé dépend du moment auquel le document est publié. Les textes des Revendications et de l'Abrégé sont affichés :

  • lorsque la demande peut être examinée par le public;
  • lorsque le brevet est émis (délivrance).
(12) Brevet: (11) CA 1188529
(21) Numéro de la demande: 1188529
(54) Titre français: TISSUS PILEUX EN ELASTOMERE
(54) Titre anglais: ELASTOMERIC PILE FABRICS
Statut: Durée expirée - après l'octroi
Données bibliographiques
(51) Classification internationale des brevets (CIB):
  • D04B 1/00 (2006.01)
  • D04B 1/04 (2006.01)
  • D04B 21/04 (2006.01)
(72) Inventeurs :
  • HORSFALL, GEOFFREY A. (Royaume-Uni)
(73) Titulaires :
  • IMPERIAL CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES PLC
(71) Demandeurs :
  • IMPERIAL CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES PLC (Royaume-Uni)
(74) Agent: DONALD G. BALLANTYNEBALLANTYNE, DONALD G.
(74) Co-agent:
(45) Délivré: 1985-06-11
(22) Date de dépôt: 1982-08-03
Licence disponible: S.O.
Cédé au domaine public: S.O.
(25) Langue des documents déposés: Anglais

Traité de coopération en matière de brevets (PCT): Non

(30) Données de priorité de la demande:
Numéro de la demande Pays / territoire Date
8126745 (Royaume-Uni) 1981-09-03

Abrégés

Abrégé anglais


ABSTRACT
A method for producing a warp or weft knitted
fabric on a knitting machine, the fabric having a first,
elastomeric fibrous component, a second, non-elastomeric,
fibrous component and optionally a third or more, non-
elastomeric, fibrous components characterised in that at least
part of the second fibrous component is knitted into the fabric
with a long float such that when the fabric is removed from the
knitting machine, the elastomeric first component contracts
such that the long floats of the non-elastomeric second
component are forced into free standing loops to provide a loop
pile on the fabric. Desirably the free standing loops are
cropped to produce a pile fabric in which the second fibrous
component is in essentially discontinuous lengths, each of
which is in general associated with one stitch only.

Revendications

Note : Les revendications sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.


The embodiments of the invention in which an
exclusive property or privilege is claimed are defined as
follows:
1. A method for producing a warp knitted
elastomeric fabric with multidirectional stretch on a warp
knitting machine, the fabric having a first, elastomeric
fibrous component knitted in a stretched condition, at least
a second, non-elastomeric, fibrous component and optionally
a third or more, non-elastomeric, fibrous component, at
least part of the second fibrous component being knitted
into the fabric with a throw of at least 1-0/4-5 such that
after the fabric has been removed from the knitting machine
and allowed to freely relax, the elastomeric first component
contracts sufficiently that the long floats of the non-
elastomeric second component are forced into free standing
loops on the technical back of the fabric substantially by
widthwise contraction, the length of the yarn constituting
the loops lying substantially across the width of the fabric,
the resulting loop pile having a pile height greater than
0.5 mm on the fabric.
2. A method for producing a warp knitted fabric
as claimed in Claim 1 in which the second fibrous component
is knitted into the fabric with at least a 1-0/5-6 notation.
3. A method for producing a warp knitted fabric
as claimed in Claim 1 in which the second component is
forced into free standing loops having a loop pile height
greater than 1.0 mm.
4. A method for producing a warp knitted elasto-
meric fabric as claimed in Claims 1, 2 or 3 in which the
fabric after it has been removed from the knitting machine
is treated with either steam or a liquid in a manner which
enhances contraction of the elastomeric component in the
fabric.
16

5. A method for producing a warp knitted fabric
as claimed in Claims 1, 2 or 3 in which the fabric after
leaving the knitting machine is subjected to a heat setting
or high temperature dyeing process in order to reduce or
destroy the elastomeric properties of the first component.
6. A method for producing a warp knitted fabric
having a cut pile as claimed in Claim 1 characterised by a
subsequent step of cropping the free standing loops of the
second component to provide a cut pile on the fabric.
7. A loop pile knitted fabric made in accordance
with the method claimed in Claim 1.
8. A cut pile knitted fabric made in accordance
with the method claimed in Claim 6.
9. A cut pile knitted fabric according to
Claim 8 in which more than 90% and preferably more than 97%
of the total filaments available for cutting in the fabrous
pile yarn have been cut into discontinuous lengths.
17

Description

Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.


s~
ELASTOMERIC PILE FABRICS
_
Thi~ invention relate~ to novel elastomeric pile
~abrics and to a method of producing ~uch fabric~.
According to one aspect of the invention we provide a
5. method for producing a fabric having a first, elastomeric,
fibrous component, a ~econd, non-elastomeric, fibrous component
and optionally a third or more, non-elastomeric, fibrous
component on a knitting machine characteri~ed in that at lea~t
part of the second fibrous component i~ introduced into the
10. fabric with a long float 3uch that when the fabric i~ removed
~rom the machine, the elastomeric first component contract~
such that the long ~loat3 of the non~elastomeric, second
component are forced into free qtanding loop~ to pro~ide a loop
pile on the fabric. As an optional further feature o~ the
15. method, the free ~tanding loops of the ~econd component are
cropped to provide a cut pile.
According to another a~pect of the invention we
pro~ide an elastomeric fabric having a non-ela~tomeric cut or
loop pile made by the above described method, ~uch loop pile
20. pre~erably being greater than 0.5 mm and more preferably
greater than 1.O ~.
With rePerence to a warp knitted fabric we use the
term "long float" to mean that the second fibrous component i9
knltted into the fabric wlth at least a 1-0/3-4 notation . On
25. a 21 gauge knittin~ machine, though the ~econd ~ibrou~
component may be knitted into the fabric with a 1-0/3-4
notation, we prefer that it is knitted into the fabric with at
lea~t a 1-0/4-5 notation. Ho~e~er on a 28, 32 or 36 gauge
knitting machine, the ~econd fibrous component is knitted into
30. the fabric with at lea~t a 1-0/4-5 notation but preferably with
at lea~t a 1-0/5-6 notation.
With reference to the knitting of a weft fabric, we
use the term "long float" to mean that during knitting, the
pile bar avoids a minimum of three needle~.

35'~3
The method of the invention can be carried out on
either a warp or weft knitting machine. However, we have found
that the ~ethod of the invention is particularly sulted to the
production of warp knitted fabrics using a conventional warp
5. knitting machine having a bearded, compound or latched needle.
Accordingly in one embodiment of the invention we
provide a method for producing a warp knitted fabric on a warp
knitting machine, the fabric having a first, elastomeric,
fibrous component, a second, non-elastomeric, fibrous component
10. and optionally a third or more, non-elaqtomeric, fibrous
component characterised in that at least part of the second
fibrous component is knitted into the ~abric with a long float
such that when the fabric i9 removed from the kn~tting machine,
the elastomeric fir3t component contractq such that the
15. long floats of the non-elastomeric 3econd component are forced
into free qtanding loops to provide a loop pile on the fabric.
Desirably the free qtanding loops oY the second component are
cropped to provide a cut pile.
Warp knitted cut pile fabrics containing an elasto-
20. meric fibrou~ component are customarily made by brushing(loop rai~in~) operation3 followed by cropping (cutting) the
raised yarns. This result~ in only a proportion of the fila-
ment3 in the yarns from which the pile is formed, being cut and
accordinely the fabric 90 formed contains essentially
25. contin-lous pile yarns in which only a proportion of the fila-
mentq therein are cut. In fabrics according to this invention t
substantially all the filament~ and in particular more than 90
and preferably more than 97~ are cut in ~uch a way as to result
in discontinuous lengths of tuft~ of pile yarn. In general the
30. di3continuous lengths of pile yarn are associated with only
one stitch.
Accordingly we provide a warp knitted fabric contain-
ing an elastomeric fibrous yarn, a second fibrous yarn in
the Porm of a cut pile and optionally a third or more fibrous
35. yarn characterised in that more than 90%, and preferably more

than 97%, of the filament~ in the ~ibrous pile yarn have been
cut into discontinuou~ lengths. In general, as mentioned
above, each o~ the discontinuous length3 o~ pile yarn i9
aq~ociated with only one stitch.
5. Whil~t in the above deqcribed method ~or producing a
warp knitted Pabric we have indicated that the second, non-
elastomeric, ~ibrous component is knitted into the fabric with
a long float it should be understood that this does not
preclude knitting into the ~abric, u~ing appropriate needle
iO. bar~, other component~ with long floats.
mough the method o~ the invention i9 particularly
suited to the production o~ a qimple warp knitted ~abric,
more complicated ~abric~ can be produced by mean~ of the u~ual
warp knitting patterning device~ o~ part set threading or
15. pattern warping ~or all of the bars on the knitting machine.
Furthermore lower ~abric weightq and pile den~ities having a
uni~orm appearance can be produced by uni~ormily part set
threading the bar used to lay the plle. For example, a 1 in, 1
out repeat on the pile bar would halve the pile den~ity.
2~, Typically, however, an elaqtomeric yarn (~irst
component) is knitted with full ~et threading on bar 1 (the
back bar), with a covering non-elastomeric yarn (third com-
ponent) with ~ull set threading on bar 2 (the middle bar) and a
non-ela~tomeric pile yarn (second component) with ~ull ~et
25. threadin~ on bar 3 (the ~ront bar) which will lay the yarn with
long ~loat~ on the surface o~ the technical back o~ the
fabric. The third component enqure~ that the ela~tomeric yarn
remains hidden and protected against physical damage and
over~tretching.
30. For a typical 28 gauge, 32 gauge or 36 gauge fabric,
the ela3tomeric yarn will be knit with a 1-0/1-2 notation and
the yarn on bar 2 with a 1-2/1 O, 2-3/1-0 or 3-4/1-0 notation
and the yarn on bar 3 with between a 1-0/4-5 and 1-0/9-10
notation, ~or example a 1-0/5-6, 1-0/6 7 or 1-0/7-8 notation.
35. In this way the ~econd fibrous component is knitted into

5~
the fabric with a long float. However different throws
(floats) and bar phasings can be used in order to modify the
conqtruction of the fabric to produce either a decorative or
functional affect, for example a two needle overlap can be used
5. on bar 2 for extra ~abric power. Furthermore iaying in
technique~ can be used for the various bars.
Alternatively, the elastomeric yarn could equally
well be knitted on other than ths back bar of a three or more
bar knitting machine, for example on the middle bar of a
10. three bar knitting machine in whioh ca~e the elastomeric yarn
might be knitted with a 1-0~1-2 notation, the 3econd component
(~ay nylon) with a 1-0/7-8 notation on the front bar and the
third component (say nylon) with a 3-4/1-0 notation on the
back bar. If suitable heat 3etting conditions are u~ed, the
15. fabric produced will have a more rigid final structure than the
earlier described fabric. If de~ired the rigidity of the
fabric might be increased further by using the same notation on
a four bar machine but with a fourth component (~ay
nylon) having a 1-0/1-2 notation on the fourth bar. Rigidity
20. o~ the fabric will be particularly deqirable if the fabric i~
being used for uphol~tery becau~e the presence of excessive
residual stretch would be a hindrance with 3uch an end
use.
Aq the knitted fabric comes from the needles of the
25. knitting machine the elastomeric component relaxes and the
second component is forced into free standing loop9. The loop
height can be enhanced and made more uniform by varlcu
mechanical and thermal proaesses associated with elastomeric
fabrics. In particular, the fabric after leaving the knitting
30. machine may be treated with steam or a liquid in a manner which
enhances shrinkage (contraction) of the elastomeric component
in the faDric.
The fabric may be dyed and finished by method~
conventionally u3ed with ~tretch fabrics.
35. Desirably the free standing loops of the second
component in the knitted fabric are cropped in a conventional

~81~SZ~
marner to provide a cut pile. Cropping may be carried out at
any suitable stage of the prooess, for ex~nple immediately
after knitting or after steaming or mechanical relaxation or
after the heat ~etting or after dyeing;
5. Various fibrous components may be used in the con-
struction of the fabric.
Whilst the first, elastomeric, component can ba a
natural material we prefer a synthetic elastomeric filament
yarn. The filament yarn u~ed is preferably bare.
10. Alternatively, however, it may be wrapped. A suitable filament
decitex can be selected in the range 10-200 but we prefer that
the elastomeric yarn has a decitex in the range 22 to 56.
The second and third components of the fabric may
either be filament or staple yarns and may be either natural or
15. synthetic. The second component, ie the pile yarn, will
typically have a decitsx in the range 22 to 100 when the fabric
is destined for apparel purposes and could have a decitex of
300 or more when the fabric i9 destined for upholstery. When a
third component is used in the fabric then this will have a
20. decitex which i9 related to that of the deoitex of the
elastomer in order to reflect the aesthetics and practicality
of the proposed end use for the fabric.
It should al30 be understood that whilst the presence
of an elastomeric component in the fabric is essential during
25. the production of the fabric it might be that the end use
envisaged for the fabric might not require the fabric to have
elastomeric properties. When this is the case then the elasto-
merio properties of the first component may be reduced or
destroyed during th0 processing of the fabric, for example by
30. high temperature dyeing or heat setting. Alternatively
the elastomeric properties of the first component can be
inhibited by the choice of a suitable fabric construction
particularly in relation to the third component.
Knitted fabric~ produced in accordance with the
35. invention may be used for a variety of end u~es more

5~:~
particularly for making up into swim wear, leisure wear,
sportswear, lingerie, industrial and domestic upholstery and
automobile furnishings.
A guide to the choice of the pile bar knitting
5. notation, for a specified knitting gauge, to give a loop
suitable for cropping to give desired fabric aesthetics, can be
obtained by numerical computation as follows:
Let 'L' - paces to be spanned
- machine gauge (needles/inch)
Let ,p,~ knitted wales/cm x 100%
wales/cm as presen-ted to the cropping machine
15. Let 'Q' be the value corresponding to 'P' on the
graph shown in Fig l.
,,
Let 'H', the pile height,- 1QOOx L x 25-4 mm
'H' can be chosen to give a pile height potential
appropriate to the de~ired aesthetic and erld use. 0~ course,
the thickness and texture of the ground yarns, yarn shrinkage
and contraation before cropping, type of knitting need:Le and
the precise Icnitting conditions of bars other than the pile bar
25. can affect the relationship between calculated (H) and the
actual heights oP the pile loops above the fabric back (Fig 3)
and so the calculated value of pile loop height cannot be
precise.
To qimpli~y calculations, development charts can be
30. devised relating 'H' to the number of needles spanned on the
pile underlap for different values of P. This is illustrated
in Fig 2 for a 28 gg (28 needles/inch) tricot warp knitting
/ machine using values of P of 35% and 70%.
The invention will now be descr-ibed by way of the
35. following Examples:-

s~
EXAMPLE 1
Thi~ ExEmple illu~trates the effect o~ knittedcourse level and of the pha~ing of the middle ~uide bar on
fabric properties.
5. A three bar 28 gg bearded needle Mayer warp knitting
machine Model No K4-WPS-T-J waæ loaded with 2320 threads per
bar of 44 decitex elastomer (T136 Lycra) ~ila~ent yarn on the
bzck bar~ 22 decitex 7 filament semi-dull circular nylon 66
yarn on the middle bar and 44 decitex 13 filament semi-dull
10. circular nylon 66 yarn on the front bar. (Lycra i~ a Trade Mark
of E I Du Pont de Nemours and Company).
The kritting machine was qet up to various condition~
in turn to provide a number of ~abric~. These conditions are
speclfied in Table 1.
15. TABLE 1
~ _ _ ~ ........ ~ ,
PIECE BACK BAR MIDDLE BAR FRONT BAR COURSES RACKS
20.NO NOTATION RUN IN NOTATION RUN IN NOTATION iRUN IN (-/CM) KNTET-
1 1-2/1-0 40 - 1-0i2-3 160 1 _o/7-8 383 25 - ~ o
2 1-2/1-0 39.3 1-0/2-3 156 1-0/7-8 377 27.6 45
3 1 -2/ 1-0 39.3 1 -0/2-3 154 1 -0/7-8 371 39 45
I~ 1 -2/ 1 -0 39.3 2-3/ 1-0 154.5 l o/7-8 373.5 30 45
25. 5 1-2/1-o 41.4 2-3/1-0 158 1-0/7-8 381 Z7.6 45
6 1 -2/ 1 -0 40 2-3/ 1 -0 159 1 -0/7-8 384 25 140
__ ~ ~ _ _ ~ ~
NOTE: (1) Run ins are quoted in cm/rack. The run
, in of the elastomer filament yarn on the
30. back bar is ~peaified in the relaxed state.
(2) The courses per cm given are defined at
the ~inker by the usual machine settings.

5;~
After removal of the fabrics from the knitting
machine the elastomer yarn contracted ~o cau9ing the component
which had been knitted on the front bar to contract and to ~orm
lnto a danqe loop pile having a height above the stitches o~
5. approximately 2 mm in each case.
All the pieces of fabric were linked together to give
a total of 460 racks in the fabric length. Thi~ continuous
length of fabric was then passed down a 3tenter, in steam at
100 C, at 95 cm width and 35% overfeed Pollowed by a further
10. stenter pass, at 195C and 60 sec3 exposure, ~t 1m width and
10% overfeed. The resulting relaxed, heat set fabrics were
then given two pa~ses on a cropping machine to cut o~ the tops
of the loop pile to leave a virtually completely cut pile.
. The fabric pieces were then dyed together at 105C
15. in a Softflow jet dyeing machine a~ a liquor ratio of 15:1
using dye3tuffs and chemical auxiliarie~ commonly used ~or
elastomeric fabrics. The now mid-blue ~abrics were dried at
1 m wide at 140C.
The extensions and moduli of the fabrics were
20. measured by the following method using an Instron Tensile
Testing machine at a constant rate of extension. Three speci-
men~, 150 mm x 50 mm with the longer dimension paralleling the
wales were cut from each fabric piece and conditioned for 16
hours and tested at 65~ Relative Humidity and 61C. The
25. machine was adjusted 90 that the distance between contaot lines
o~ the ~aws was 10 cm and the cross head and chart speeds were
set at 50 cm/min with the machine 3et to cycle between zero
extension and a maximum load of 3.6 kg. A hysteresis graph for
two cycles was produced. From the second load curve, the
30. exten3ion at 3.6 kg (warp modulus) and the load3 at 20~, 40%,
60%, 80% and 100% extension were measured. On sample~ cut at
ri~ht angles to the above, the extension at 3.6 kg was also
determined (weft modulus).
Details of the finished fabrics, which all had a
35. pleasing crushed appearance with a dense, well cropped pile,
are listed in Table 2.

85;2~
TABLE 2
_ _ _ ~ __ _ _
PIECE WALES X ELAS- WEIGHT MODULUS % LOAD (GM) AT (%)
NO COURSE TOMER (GM/ WARP WEFT _ STR ~TCHE' OF
5~ (-/C~ (O ~2) _ _ ~0 40 60 80 lOO
1 25 x 42 11.4 338 198 133 120 220 290 380 500
2 25 x 44 11.6 355 191 137 120 220 310 410 570
3 25 x 44 11.7 354 190 120 120 210 31o 440 590
4 25 x 38 11.4 349 214 157 120 200 290 39o 500
10. 5 25 x 41 11.3 342 223 135 130 210 2go 380 480
6 24 x 41 11~6 329 223 147 83 180 250 340 460
! ~ ~ _ , _ _ . .
EXAMPLE 2
15. The 3ame knitting machine as u~ed in Example 1
was loaded with the same yarns on the back and middle bars as
for Example 1. 44 decitex 20 filament bright trilobal nylon 66
yarn was loaded at 2320 ends to the front bar. Knitting
notations were back bar 1-0/1-2, middle bar 2-3/1-Q and front
20. bar 1-0/7-8 with the machine set to knit 25 courses/cm. Run
ins per rack were baok bar 40 cm (relaxed), middle bar 150 cm
and ~ront bar 392 cm.
The re3ulting fabric wa~ processed as that in Example
1 to give a pleasing highly lu3trous crushed pile appearance of
25. 275 gm/m2 wei~ht. The pile wa~ den~e. Moduli as defined in
Example 1 were warp 175% and weft 110%. The loads at 20, 40,
!: 60, 80, 100% stretch were 73, 213, 347, 483 and 633 grams
respectively. The fabric contained 12% elastomer.
EXAMPLE 3
30. This example illu~trates the use of a 2 needle
overlap construction on the middle bar. The knitting machine
o~ Example 1 was loaded with the same yarns on the same
bar~ as in that Example. This fabric wa~ knitted to the
specifications of Table 3.

3S2~
TABLE 3
____
PIECE1 3ACK BAR 1 MIDDL,E BAR _ _ FRONT BAR_ COUR- RACKS
NO NOTATION RUN NOTATION RU~ NOTATION RUN SES KNIT-
5. IN IN IN ( / TED
(CM) (CM) (CM) CM)
_ __ _~ _ _ ~___
l 1-0/1-Z 40 3-l/0-2 244 1-0/7-8 384 25 2.30
10. 2 1-0/1-2 40 4-2/0-2 272 1-0/7-8 394 25 230
NOTE: R~n ins are quoted in cm/rack. The run in
of the elastomer ~ilament yarn on the
15. back bar i~ speci~ied in the relaxed state.
The two ~abric lengths were joined together then
dyed and ~inished and tested as per Example 1 except that a
liquor ratio o~ 17:1 was used in dyeing and that ~he fabrics
were tumbled in a steam tumbling ~achine a~ter the ~irst crop
20. and before the second crop. Again the ~abrics were sub-
stantially completely cropped. In the ~inished state both
Pabrics had a pleasing crushed cut pile appearance with piece
No 2 being less lu~trous and fuller in handle than piece No 1.
The ~abric was ef~ectively completely cropped~
25. Details of the finished ~abrics are given in Table 4.
TABLE 4
PIECE WALES X ELAS- WT MODULUS(5) LOAD(GM) AT % STRETCHES OF.
NO COURSES TOMER (~M/ WARP WEFT 20 40 60 80 100
3o~ (-/CM) (%) M )
_ _ . __ _ _
l 22x37 9.9 299 79 45 230 580 1480 _
35. 2 23x36 3.9 344 109 120 180 380 720 1370 2630 ,

s~
1 1
EXAMPLE_4
The knitting machine oP Example 1 was set up as
described in that Example but using a Pront bar oP 22 decitex 7
filament semi-dull circular nylon 66 yarn as well as having a
5. middle bar threaded with thi yarn. The fabrics were knitted
to the speciPications given in Table 5.
TABLE 5
~____
PIECE BACK BAR LMIDDLE BAR ERONT BAR COUR- RACKS
10. NO NOTATION RUN NOTATION RUN NOTATION RUN SES KNIT-
IN IN IN (-/ TED
(CM) (CM) (CM) CM)
_~ _ __ . _ _ _ _.
15. 1 -0/1-2 40 2-3/1-0 156 1-0/7-8 370 28 230
2 -0/1-2 40 1-2J1-0 114 1-0/7 8 370 28 115
3 ~ 2 40 2-3/1-0 156 1-0/6-~ 370 28 ~15
20. NOTE: Run in~ are quoted in cm/rack. The run-in
o~ the elastomer filament yarn on the back
bar is speci~ied in the relaxed qtate.
APter steam relaxation then heat setting (195 C)
piece number 3 was cropped once whilst pieces 1 and 2 were
25. cropped, tumbled in steam, then cropped again. The Pabrics
were dyed a~ ~or Example 1 but at a liquor ratio o~ 36 to 1.
Dye temperature was 105C. The resulting Pabrics all gave a
~ub~tantially uncrushed pile. APter sampllng the Pabric~ were
returned to the jet dyeing machine at 110C Por 15 minuteq at
30. a liquor to goods ratio of 15 to 1 to yield pleasart orushed
blue velour ~abric~. Piece 3 gave a slightly more bristly hand
than pieces 1 and 2. Properties of the cru~hed ~abrics are set
out in Table 6.

s~ ~
12
TABLE 6
__
~ ~_ _ _ r
PIECE WALES X ELAST- WT MODULUS % LOAD (GM) AT % STRETCHEC
NO COURSES OMER (2M/ WARP WEFT ~ OF:
5. __ =_ (1) M) --Z L 60 3 10~
1 28x42 16 263 232 136 120 190 250 33 430
2 29X48 18 279 158 240 120 220 340 490 700
10. 3 30xll9 l7 s 304 275 151 100 190 Z'70 33 41C
EXAMPLE 5
This illustrate~ the use o~ polyester filament yarn.
l 5. The knitting machine of Example 1 was loaded at
2320 threads per bar with 44 dacitex elastara (T136 Lycra) on
the back bar, 22 decitex 10 filament circular extra dull
polye~ter (ICI T6001) on the middle bar and 44 decitex 30
filament circular dull polyestar (ICI T5001) on the front bar.
20. The knitting machine was set up to the condition~ of Table
7.
TABLE 7
_ -- .... . . _ ~ ,
PIECE BACK BAR MIDDLE BAR FRONT BAR COUR- RACKS
25. NO NOTATION RUN NOTATION RUN NOTATION RUN SES KNIT-
IN IN IN (-/ TED
(CM) ( CM) ( CM) CM)
___ _ _ _ . . _
30. 1 1 -0/ 1 -240 2-3/ 1 -O1 691-0/7-8 378 25 300
2 l_o/l-z 40 2-3/l-0 ~6Z l-o/6-7 329 Z5 170 .
NOTE: Run ins are quoted in cm/rack. The run-in
35. of the elastomer ~ilamen'c yarn on the back
; bar is speci~ied in the relaxed state.

13
The requlting fabrics were steam relaxed then
heat qet a~ 1 65C at 1 metre width before cropping. Sub-
stantially all the loop3 were cut. The cropped fabric3 were
qoft flow jet dyed at 105C for 60 minutes using dyeqtuffs
5. and auxiliaries quitable for thiq polyester and at pH 5.5 with
a liquor ratio of 15 to 1. After reduction clearing at pH 10
the fabrics were then heat qet at 195 C. The resulting
mid-blue cloths had a pleasing crushed appearance and a soft
clinging hand. Fabric properties are given in Table 8.
10. TABLE 8
__ .
PIECE WALES X ELAS- WEI- MODULUS(%) LOAD AT % STRETCH
NO COURSES TOM- GHT OF:
(-/CM) ER (~M/ WARP WEFT 20 40 60 80 100
15. _ (~ M ) _ _ ~ _ ~ _
1 5x42 2.7 299 235 164 180 290 370 470 560
20, 2 ~ 6x45 11.7 318 252 161 130 210 320 400 480
EXAMPLE 6
Tnis Example illustrates the effect of` changing the
length of the yarn float on the bar knitting the pile loop.
The knitting machine and yarns of Example 5 were used
with the same threadings. The back bar threaded with the
elastane wa3 qet to knit a 1-0/ 1 -2 notation at a relaxed run in
o~ 40 cm/rack. The mi.ddle bar threaded with the 22 decitex
polyeqter was set to knit a 2-3/1-0 notation at a run in of 163
cm/rack. The ~ront bar notation wa3 quccessively changed and
12 racks of fabric knitted at each notation. Front bar
conditions used were:-

~85~
14
FRONT 3AR NOTATION RUN IN (CM)
~-0/4~5 244
1 0/5-6 ~90
1-0/6-7 328
5. 1-0/7 8 378
1-0/8-9 419
1-0/9-10 . 458
The knitted course level at the ~inkers defined
10. by machine ~ettings wa~ 25/cm.
The ~abrlc wa~ steam relaxed and then heat qet
at 1 metre width a3 in Example 5. The height of the pile loops
above the fabric back (Fig 3) was mea~ured and this plotted
~raphically against the needle spaces spanned for eaah ~ront
15. bar notation knitted (Fig 4). The height o~ the pile loops can
be ~een to correspond closely with the values of H calculated
from the formula ~et out previously and marked on Fig 4.
The ~abric was then cropped using cropper settings
appropriate to each pile loop height. For the longer pile bar
20. ~loats, zones containing a short cut pile height were
deliberately produced adjacent to zoneq containing long pile
heights. The fabric was then dyed at a liquor ratio o~ 30:1
and dried according to the method o~ Example 5.
The fabric.s all had a plain uncrushec appearance and
25. had all cropped sati~factorily. The longest pile loops, eg
1~0/9-10 notatlon, resulted in both a lor,g rich cotton-like
pile and a shorter, les3 luxuriou~ pile fabric according to the
oropping height uqed. The shorte~t pile loop, 1~0/4-5
notation, gave a single, very shortj but ~erviceable pile
30. fabric.
EXAMPLE 7
This Example illustrate3 the cropping of fabrics
both before and after dyeing and o~ the use o~ beam dyeing.

52~
A 28 g~ 3 bar Mayer bearded needle machine Model No
K4-WPS-T J was full set threaded on the back bar with 2320 ends
of 44 decitex ela~tane (T136 Lycra) and set to knit a notation
of 1-0/1-2 at a relaxe~ run in oP 40 cm/rack. The middle bar
5. was full set threaded with 22 decitex monofilament nylon 66 and
set to knit a notation of 2-3/1-0 at a run in of 156 cm/rack.
The front bar waq full set threade~ with a 44 decitex 13
~ilament round cross section semi-dull nylon 66 yarn. The
front bar notation was 1-0/7-ô at a run in of 3~6 cm/rack. The
lO. fabric was knitted at 25/cm at the sinker as de~ined by
machine settings.
470 racks of fabric were knitted. The fabric
was steam relaxed and heat set at 107 cm width. Approximately
half the fabric was cropped and then the total fabric length
15. was batched on to a beam and dyed mid-blue at 105C for 60
minutes. The fabric was then removed from the beam and dried
on a stenter at 140C. The cropped section of the pile wa~
laid uniformily down in a unidirectional manner to give a plain
cut pile fabric. This section o~ the fabric was then placed in
20. a steam tumbling machine to produce a softer fabric with an
attractive uniform pile. The uncut dyed section of the fabric
was then cropped to give a plain cut pile fabric.
EXAMPLES 8-11
A 28 gg single ~ersey weft knitting machine was
25. loaded with 76 decitex 30 filament circular cros~ section
polyester yarn and wikh a wrapped elastane yarn (78 decitex
Lycra wrapped with 44 decitex nylon 66). The yarns were loaded
and knitted to the 4 10 feed repeat con3tructions shown in
conventional notation in the attached Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8 for
30. Fabrics A, B, C and D. After knitting the fabrics were steam
relaxed. All yielded stretch fabrics with pile loops. The
pile loops on Fabrics A and B were largest and most suitable
for further operations such as cutting.
RH/NDW
WP02 Al6-30 B07-~2

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États administratifs

2024-08-01 : Dans le cadre de la transition vers les Brevets de nouvelle génération (BNG), la base de données sur les brevets canadiens (BDBC) contient désormais un Historique d'événement plus détaillé, qui reproduit le Journal des événements de notre nouvelle solution interne.

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Historique d'événement

Description Date
Inactive : CIB de MCD 2006-03-11
Inactive : CIB de MCD 2006-03-11
Inactive : Périmé (brevet sous l'ancienne loi) date de péremption possible la plus tardive 2002-08-03
Inactive : Périmé (brevet sous l'ancienne loi) date de péremption possible la plus tardive 2002-08-03
Inactive : Renversement de l'état périmé 2002-06-12
Accordé par délivrance 1985-06-11

Historique d'abandonnement

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IMPERIAL CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES PLC
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GEOFFREY A. HORSFALL
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Dessins 1993-06-10 6 139
Revendications 1993-06-10 2 61
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Abrégé 1993-06-10 1 18
Description 1993-06-10 15 553