Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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SEDUCING SERUM SPUDDING
Background of the Invention
Serum, or skin oil, is produced in the sea-
Swiss glands located in the pilosebaceou~ apparatus of
the skin and reaches the skin surface through the duct
of the hair follicles. The presence of excessive
amounts of serum on the skin surface often results in
an unattractive cosmetic condition commonly known as
"oily skin". Serum also plays an important role in
lo the pathogenesis of acne. Setaceous gland activity is
significantly increased in acne subjects and indivi-
duals with the most severe acne often haze the highest
serum secretion rates.
The spreading of serum on the skin surface
is thus an important cosmetic parameter since its
distribution on the spin surface can determine the
appearance of oiliness or greasiness and can contra-
byte to the severity of acne.
It is advantageous, therefore, to have
available means for reducing the flow of serum over
the surface of human skin, with particular regard to
skin characterized by an excessive secretion or pros-
once of serum on the surface and to affected skin
areas of acne patients.
It has now been discovered that qua ternary
halide salts of N,N,N-trialkylaminoalkylene glucon-
aside may be employed to effectively so reduce the
spread ability of serum.
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Related References
_
The qLIaternary halide salts of N,N,N-tri-
alkylaminoalkylene gluconamide used in this invention
are described in US. Patents 3,766,267 and 3,855,290
for use as emollients in topical and cosmetic
applications. Their use, however, as agents capable of
effectively reducing the spreadabilbility of serum on
human skin has not been recognized heretofore.
Summary of the Invention
The present invention relates to a method
and composition for the topical application of a
qua ternary halide salt of an N,N,N-trialkylamino-
alkaline gluconamide for the treatment of human skin
(including the scalp) by reducing the spread ability of
serum thereon. Such method provides for the physic-
logically effective treatment of human skin and has
beneficial applications such as, for example, in come-
tics formulated for particular use on oily skin, such
as, for example, pore cleansers, scalp and hair sham
pros and conditioners, and the like, following applique-
lion of which the skin is perceived and felt to be less
oily, and in the treatment of acne wherein the reduce
lion of excessive spreading of serum is particularly
desirable to help prevent spreading of the acne condo-
lion.
Detailed Des~riptiGn of the Invention
.
The active compounds employed in this invent
lion are qua ternary halide salts of N,N,N-trialkyl-
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z V-1210
aminoalkylene gluconamide having the formula:
C13
~2-(cHoH)4-c-NH-~cH2)n-Nl-cH2-cH2 X- tip
SHEA
wherein X is sheller or broom and n is an integer of
from 2 to 4, and preferably 3, of which the qua ternary
chloride salt having the following formula is most
preferred:
H H H OH H O OH 3
HO--C--C--C--C--C--C-NH- ( SHEA ) 3-N---CH2-(~H20H Of - ( II )
H OH OH H OH SHEA
The preferred qua ternary chloride salt of
formula (II), chemically known asoC-gluconamidopropyl
dimethyl-2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name =
Quaternium 22) is commercially available as a free-
flowing 60~ aqueous solution (i.e., 60% active)
marketed by the Van Dye Company, Inc. under the trade-
mark "Sorrowful 60".
It has now been found that the qua ternary
halides of formula (I) and, most preferably, of formula
(II) markedly reduce the spread ability of serum on
human skin. The improvement provided by the present
invention involves the use of this beneficial effect in
treating spin conditions characterized either (i) by
excessive secretion or presence of serum on the skin
surface, e.g., oily skin, or (ii) by acne, and thereby
improve the condition thereof by the topical applique-
lion of appropriate compositions containing said
qua ternary halides. Such topical compositions may be
either cosmetic formulations for use on oily skin or
therapeutically active anti-acne formulations.
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The particular type of topical cosmetic come
position, which may include, for example, hand, face
and body lotions and creams, scalp and hair condition-
east lotions, gels and shampoos, just to name a few, is
not critical. Such types of compositions are readily
prepared by skilled cosmetic chemical formulators.
Similarly, the particular type of anti-acne composition
is not critical nor, for that matter, is the particular
therapeutic anti-acne active ingredient, for example,
Bunnell peroxide, sulfur, resorcinol, derivatives of
retinoic acid, chlorhydroxyquinoline, hormonal and
antibacterial agents, and the like. The aforementioned
~uaternary halides of formulas (I) and (II) are non-
toxic to human skin, are compatible with hydrophilic
adjutants and can be readily incorporated into such
topical compositions.
In preparing such compositions, it is quite
apparent that the product should not be formulated in
) such manner or include any vehicle or ingredient which
would substantially in effectuate the activity of said
halides (I) and (II) in reducing serum spread ability on
the skin surface when the product is topically applied.
It is also evident that the produce should be physic-
logically compatible with the skin and be cosmetically
elegant.
For purposes of this invention, an effective
amount of a qua ternary halide of formula (I) and, most
preferably, of formula (II) is included as an active
ingredient to reduce the spread ability of serum on skin
in the topical compositions for use herein and, goner-
ally, at least about ~05 percent by weight, based on
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the weight of the total composition (i.e. "% w/w"), is
wound suitable although from about 0.3 to about 6% w/w
is preferred and, most preferably, from about 0.5 to
about 3% w/w.
The instant invention thus provides a method
of treating human skin, characterized by an excessive
) secretion of serum or by acne, to improve the condition
thereon by reducing the spread ability of serum on the
skin surface which comprises topically applying to
human skin so characterized a composition comprising,
as an active component to reduce the spread ability of
serum, an effective amount of a qua ternary halide of
N,N,N-trialkylaminoalkylene gluconamide of formula (I)
or formula IT The invention also provides novel
anti-acne compositions for topical application comprise
in, as an active ingredient to reduce serum spreading,
an effective amount of said halides (I) or (II).
The method of this invention, compositions
for use therein and the reduction in serum spreadable-
fly afforded by said qua ternary halides will be thus-
treated and better understood by reference to the
following examples. The procedure utilized in testing
for reduction in serum spread ability is as follows.
Testing Protocol:
From 2 to 4 mg/cm2 of the material to be
tested is placed on the back of the hand and spread
evenly covering a circular area of about 2 inches in
diameter. After application of the testing material, a
period of one hour is allowed at room temperature for
equilibration. After this hour, a 4 pi drop, measured
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from a micro pipette of artificial serum supplemented
with 13% by weight of skyline is deposited sub Stan-
tidally in the center of the treated area. The formula-
lion for artificial serum is
Ingredients % w/w
Skyline l8.0
Corn Oil 7.0
1:1 Mix of Glycerol Dioleate:Oleic Acid 1.0
Oleic Acid 27.0
Sorrowful 140 (Decal Owlet) 43.5
Cholesterol Palpitate 1.0
Cholesterol 2.5
100.0
After a spreading period of 10 minutes, a
1 cm diameter glass cylinder is placed over the center
and the serum within the confines of the cylinder is
extracted. The extraction is performed by pupating
2 x 0.5 ml allocates of hexane into the glass cylinder
for 30 seconds without agitation. Both hexane extracts
are each pipette into a test tube and evaporated to
dryness by a nitrogen gas evaporator. The residue is
resolubilized with 0.2 ml hexane and 10 us of twitter-
cosine is added to the sample as an internal standard.
The amount of serum within the glass cylinder is
I precisely determined by gas-liquid chromatography (GLC)
via determination of the amount of skyline contained
in the extract. From this data, the area covered by
the spreading of the artificial serum is calculated.
The greater the amount of skyline recovered from the
extract, the greater toe reduction in serum spreading.
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Example 1
A cosmetic product, applicable to oily skin,
for deeply cleaning spin pores is prepared in
accordance with the following formulation. All amounts
are in parts by weight unless otherwise indicated.
Table I
.. .. . _
Ingredient Composition
Alcohol* 49.1 v/v
Salicylic acid 0.5
10 Acetone 0.9 v/v
Ceteareth-27 (surfactant) 1.0
Propylene glycol OWE
Menthol 0.05
Tartaric acid 0.25
15 Fragrance 0.05
Water, purified us ad 100.00 v/v
*Equivalent to 43.2% v/v Alcohol, Absolute.
Example 2
Compositions of Sorrowful 60 admixed with the
skin pore cleanser of Example 1 in the percent concern-
tractions indicated in Table II are prepared and the
percent reduction in serum spreading for each
composition is recorded.
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Table II
. . . _ . _
Composition Example 1 Reduction In
Cleaner Admixed With: Serum Spreading*
a. 0.0~ w/w Sorrowful 60 (Control) negligible (base
line)
b. Oily " " " " 12.3
c. 0.5% " " " " 26.4
d. 1.0% " " " " 41.2
e. 1.5~ " " " " 29.4**
lo f. 2.0% " " " " 38.8
g. 2.5% " " " " 33.8**
h. 3.0~ " " " " 42.4
i. 5.0% " " " " 70.4
*Average reading of six tests.
**Percentage is atypically low due to inclusion of one
non-responsive subject.
Example 3
This example illustrates the marked reduction
in serum spread ability on human skin when Sorrowful 60
is added to two commercially available creams for
treating acne (each containing 10% bouncily peroxide as
the active anti-acne ingredient).
Table III
-Clearasil~
Acne Treatment % w/w % Reduction In
Cream* Sorrowful 60 Serum Spreading
A. Tinted 0 zero
2 46
B. Vanishing 0 9
" 2 21
*Marketed by Richardson-Vicks Inc., Wilson, Connecticut
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Example 4
The following basic shampoo formulations,
(A) one without and (B) one with l% w/w Sorrowful 60, are
prepared and tested for percent reduction in serum
spread ability.
Table IV _ _
Reduction In
Ingredients % w/w bum Spreading
A. Sodium laurel ether
sulfate (30%) 40.0 4%
Citric acid an hydrous 0.3
Water 59.7
B. Sodium laurel ether
sulfate (30%) 40.0 60%
lo Citric acid an hydrous 0.3
Sorrowful 60 1.0
Water 58.7
_
Example 5
The following formulation for an oil-free
moisturizer-cleanser containing 3% w/w Sorrowful 60 is
prepared. When tested, the percent reduction in serum
spreading is 46%. In contrast, the identical
formulation without the Sorrowful 60 (i.e., replaced by
water) measures a 35% reduction.
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Table V
~L--dients % w/w
Part A:
Purified Water 79.89
Carbomer ~34 lgellina agent) 0.20
Methyl paraberl ~.18
Part B:
Deionized water 2.00
lo Sodium laurel amino preappoint 2~00
Amphoteric-2 3.00
Part C:
Purified water 2.00
Sodium hydroxide pullets
Part D:
Purified water 1,00
Sorrowful 60 3.00
Part E:
Myristyl acetate l.00
Cetostearyl alcohol 1.00
Myristic acid l.50
Glycerol dilaurate 1.50
Myristyl alcohol 0.25
Propel paraben Oslo
Part F:
Imidazolidinyl urea 0.30
Purified water 1.00
Total 100.00
_ _ _ . . .. _ ... _ . _
Prepare Part A by dissolving the methyl pane-
Ben in the water and then adding the Carbomer 934 and
heating to 70C. Separately prepare Parts B and D and
heat each to 75-80C. Mix Parts B and D together and
combine with Part A. Prepare Part E and heat to 80C
and add to previous mixture with stirring. Prepare
Part C and add to previous mixture with stirring.
Allow mixture to cool. At about 45C the emulsion goes
through an inversion phase and changes color by turning
white. Prepare Part F and mix into previous mixture at
about 40 C. Let mixture cool to room temperature.
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It will be understood by those having skill
in the art that the invention is not limited to the
specific examples which have been offered as particular
embodiments and that modifications can be made without
departing from the spirit thereof.
