Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
.
39~1
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HAIR CONDITIONING
CQMPOSITION AND METHOD
Descri~tion
Technical Field
-
The present invention relates generally to
conditioners for human hair, and more specifically to
conditioners and methods of their use that impart a
reduced static charge to hair treated with a
conditioner containing a cationic polymer when that
hair in a dry state is combed, and that improve hair
set and styleO
Backqround Art
Hair conditioning compositions tha~ contain
a quaternary nitrogen compound as the principal
conditioning agent are well known in the cosmetic
arts. Such conditioning agents may be monomeric,
non-polymeric molecules of relatively low molecular
weight that contain one or two quaternerized nitrogen
atoms along with one C12-C18 alkyl group or two
C12-C16 alkyl groups per quaternary nitrogen atom.
Human hair normally is anionic and has a net
negative charge in aqueous compositions at neutral pH
values. The cationic conditioning agents are
believed to deposit on hair through a cation-anion
interaction.
While relatively low molecular weight
conditioning agents can provide adequate conditioning
effects such as wet combing and detanglingl and can
reduce or eliminate the static charge induced in dry
hair by combing, they typically leave dry hair limp,
having little body, and also reduce the set holding
ability of the conditioner-treated hair to less than
that shown for similar hair that was not treated with
such a conditioner.
Polymeric conditioning agents that contain a
plurality of quaternary nitrogen atoms are also well
known~ One problem long associated with conditioning
compositions that contain such polymeric quaternary
nitrogen compounds is that the conditioned hair in
its dry state; i.e., after conventional drying in the
air or with a hair dryer, typically obtains an
induced static charge upon combing.
The cause of the combing induced static
charge in hair conditioned with quaternary
nitrogen-containing polymers is thought to be due to
the very high substantivity of such polymers to the
hair that makes the previously anionic hair
cationic. The presence of a static charge on the
hair fibers causes fiber-fiber repulsions that can
aive the hair an unwanted "fly~away" look.
Polymeric quaternary nitrogen-containing
conditioning agents that are film-forming polymers
can also provide a degree of set holding to dry,
conditioner-treated hair. However, in many cases,
the set holding attributes that can be obtained using
polymeric conditioners are offset by the detriment of
increased static charge on the hair and its resulting
"fly-away" look.
It would therefore be beneficial if a
quaternary nitrogen-containing hair conditioning
composition could be found that reduces the static
charge normally associated with combed, dried hair
conditioned with a cationic polymer. It would also
be beneficial if the set holding properties
obtainable from the use of film-forming, polymeric
quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agents
could be taken advantage of without the usually
attendant increase in static and "fly away" on
combing dry, conditioned hair that such conditioning
agents normally provide.
~2~13~
--3--
Brief Summary of_the Invention
The present invention contemplates a human
hair conditioner that provides a reduced static
charge to dried, combed, conditioned human hair.
That conditioner consists essentially of an aqueous
composition of about 0.25 to about 4 weight percent
of a static-reducing agent comprised of a nonionic,
water insoluble, non-oily organic material that is a
liquid at 20 C., having a Brookfield viscosity at
26C. of less than about 50 centipoises, and a
refractive index at 25C. of about 1.4 to about 1.5
such as the mixed benzoate esters of C12-C15
alcohols or caprylic/capric triglyceride, about 0.05
to about 1.0 weight percent of a cationic,
film-forming polymer containing a plurality of
quaternary nitrogen atoms, and about 0.25 to about 4
weight percent of a distearyldimethylammonium salt,
the weight ratio of the above static-reducing agent
to the cationic polymer being about 2:1 to about
20:1.
In preferred practice, the hair conditioning
composition is an aqueous emulsion in which the
ingredients are stably dispersed to form a
substantially homogeneous composition.
Also contemplated is a method o~
conditioning human hair in the presence of a hair
set-improving cationic polymer to provide a reduced
amount of static charge on that hair when the
conditioned hair in the dry state is combed. Here,
the above-discussed human hair conditioning
composition is provided and is applied in a
substantially homogeneous form to human hair. Thus,
the conditioner itself need not be substantially
homogeneous at ambient temperatures, but when it is
applied to the hair, it is in a substantially
3~9
homogeneous form; i.e., the conditioner may separate
on standing at room temperature, but may be made
substantially homogeneous by agitation, as by shaking
- immediately prior to use. The applied conditioner is
maintained on the hair for a time period sufficient
for the conditioner to contact the hair fibers. The
contacted hair fibers are thereafter rinsed with
water, and the water-rinsed hair is dried.
The composition and method of the present
invention provides several benefits and advantages.
One benefit is that hair conditioned with a
composition of this invention, when combed in the dry
state, has a relatively reduced amount of static
charge.
An advantage of the present invention is
that a cationic, quaternary nitrogen-containing,
film-forming polymer may be used in an amount
sufficient to improve the set holding characteristics
of conditioned hair without the attendant static
charge that is normally found when such polymeric
conditioning agents are utilized in an amount to
provide set holding.
Another advantage of the present invention
is that a minimal amount of non-polymeric, relatively
low molecular weight conditioning agent is deposited
on the hair, thereby aiding the set holding
properties of the conditioned hair, rather than
increasing the limpness of the hair.
Still further benefits and advantages of the
present invention will be apparent to those skilled
in the art ~rom the detailed disclosures and examples
that follow.
Detailed Description of the Invention
The hair conditioning compositions of this
invention are aqueous compositions, and in addition
~Z6~3~9
to water consist essentially of particular amounts of
each of three ingredients, two of which ingredients
: are present at a particular weight ratio to each
other. Those three ingredients are (a) a salt of the
distearyldimethylammonium ion, (b) a cationic,
film-forming polymer containing a plurality of
quaternary nitrogen atoms and (c) a static-reducing
agent that is a nonionic, water-insoluble, non-oily
organic material that is a liquid at 20C., having a
Brookfield viscosity at 26C. of less than about 50
centipoises, and a refractive index at 25C. of about
1.4 to about 1.5 such as the mixed benzoate esters of
C12-C15 alcohols and the mixed triglyceride
reaction product of capric and caprylic acids with
glycerol.
The term "distearyldimethylammonium salt" is
intended to include the pure or substantially pure
named cationic compound, as well as to include
materials such as dimethyldi(hydrogenated
; 20 tallow)ammonium salts that contain about 60 to about
70 weight percent C18-alkyl groups in their
tallow-derived fatty chains. Thus, the
distearyldimethylammonium salt may also be referred
to as a dialkyldimethylammonium salt whose two alkyl
groups are each predominantly, at least about 60 to
about 70 weight percent, composed of chains
containing 18 carbon atoms tCl8-chains)-
The distearyldimethylammonium salt providesa conditioning effect to the compositions of this
invention, above that provided by the cationic
quaternary nitrogen-containing polymer, without
substantially impairing the set holding effect of the
composition as a whole, as might be expected from a
usually used non-polymeric, relatively low molecular
~eight quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning
~Z~i~39~
-6-
agent. As already noted, such usually utilized
relatively low molecular weight conditioners (less
than 1100 daltons) that contain one or two quaternary
nitrogen atoms and one C12-C18 alkyl groups or
S two C12-Cl~ alkyl groups per quaternary nitrogen
typically make treated hair relativel~ limp, compared
to untreated hair, and thereby reduce set holding.
The anion of the distearyldimethylammonium
salt may be selected from a wide group of anions.
Included in that group are the halides such as
fluoride, chloride, bromide, and iodide; monovalent
and divalent inorganic anions such as nitrate,
nitrite, sulfate, bisulfate, carbonate and
bicarbonate; organic carboxylic acids containing up
to about 4 carbon atoms such as formate, acetate and
fumarate; and organic sulfates and sulfonates
containing up to about 8 carbon atoms such as ethyl
sulfate, methyl sulfate, benzene sulfonate and
toluene sulfonate. Monovalent anions, and the
halides, particularly chloride, are especially
preferred.
The distearyldimethylammonium salt may be
present in the compositions of this invention in an
amount of about 0.25 to about 4 weight percent of the
total composition. More preferably, the
distearyldimethylammonium salt is present in an
amount of about 0.5 to about 2.5 weight percent of
the total composition.
The distearyldimethylammonium salt appears
- 30 to be unique among the relatively low molecular
weight, monomeric (non-polymeric) quaternary
nitrogen-containing materials. Specifically,
increasing the amount of this material used as a hair
conditioning agent present in a conditioning
composition above a predetermined, relatively low
~6~3~g
amount does not increase the amount of
distearyldimethylammonium salt that deposits on the
hair. This point is illustrated in Example 2
hereinafter.
In that example, it is shown that at l.0
weight percent of the composition of the
distearyldimethylammonium chloride, used
illustratively herein as a distearyldimethylammonium
salt, substantially the same amount of cationic
conditioning agent is found on the hair in the
presence or absence of 2 weight percent
caprylic/capric triglyceride. In addition, there is
no substantial change in the deposition of the
distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of
2 percent caprylic/capric triglyceride when the
distearyldimethylammonium chloride is present over a
ranye of 0.5 to 2 weight percent of the composition.
Those results may be compared with the
results obtained using the other, usually used
conditioning agents illustrated in that Example. It
is there shown that a different amount of
conditioning agent is deposited on the hair in the
absence of caprylic/capric triglyceride from that
fleposited when the triglyceride is present. It is
also shown that increasing amounts of the other
quaternary nitrogen-containing compounds are
deposited with increasing concentrations of those
compounds when the caprylic/capric triglyceride is
held at a constant level of 2 weight percent.
The data of Example 2 further illustrate
that less of the distearyldimethylammonium salt is
deposited on the hair than is deposited by any of the
usually used quaternary nitrogen-containing
conditioning agents of that Example, when all of the
relatively low molecular weight materials are
3~
--8--
ori~inally present at the same concentration. ~t is
believed ~hat the relatively minimal deposition of
the distearyldimethylammonium salt plays a
significant role in the improved set holding
properties exhibited by hair conditioned using that
conditioning agent.
Thus, the use of a conditioning amount of a
distearyldimethylammonium salt as disclosed herein in
an aqueous medium provides an improved human hair
conditioner. An improved conditioner composition may
also contain additional cationic hair conditioning
agents such as the polymeric materials described
herein, and/or the usually used non-polymeric,
relatively low molecular weight hair conditioners
that contain one or two quaternary nitrogen atoms per
molecule and one C12-C18 alkyl group or two
C12-C16 alkyl groups per molecule. Such
multi-cationic component conditioners preferably
contain the distearyldimethylammonium salt as the
principal hair conditioning agent; i.e., that salt
constitutes at least about 60 weight percent
relatively of the low molecular weight cationic,
quaternary nitrogen-containing conditioning agent
present. In any event, an improved human hair
conditioner of this invention contains water and a
hair-conditioning amount of a cationic, quaternary
nitrogen-containing conditioning agent that is a
distearyldimethylammonium salt as dessribed herein.
Such improved conditioners are utilized to condition
hair, and to reduce the hair limpness normally
associated with a non-polymeric, cationic
conditioning agent, following the methods described
herein.
A useful distearyldimethylammonium salt is
the distearyldimethylammonium chloride sold under the
trademark AROSU ~ A-100 by Sherex Chemical Co,
3~
Inc. of Dublin, Ohio. That material is sold as a
white po~der said by its supplier's literature to
typically be 95 percent active and contain 2 percent
of the free amine and its hydrochloride salt. The
supplier's literature indicates its use to be as a
fabric softener for imparting softness and fluffiness
to fabrics, and improved antistatic properties for
cotton, rayon, nylon and other synthetic fibers.
The supplier's literature also indicates
that a possible mechanism for its use as a fabric
softener is the material's substantivity to
negatively charged surfacesl its ability to exhaust
from dilute aqueous dispersions and to "plate out" on
those substrates. That literature suggests a typical
formulation to contain 15-35 weight percent of the
product along with diluent extenders.
A particular composition suggested by the
supplier contains 30 weight percent of the quaternary
fabric softener and 70 weight percent diluent. The
use of 105-4 ounces of that dry formulation to 100
pounds dry weight of fabric is recommended.
Using the supplier's latter suggested fabric
softener formulations, it may be calculated that the
fabric softener is utilized in an amount of from
0.028 to 0.075 percent of the weight of fabric to be
softened. Using similar calculations and presuming
that one milliliter of a composition of this
invention of Example 2 weighs one gram, it is seen
that when used herein in an amount of 0.25 to 4
weight percent of a human hair conditioner,
distearyldimethylammonium chloride is used at about
0.14 to about 2.2 percent of the weight of hair
treated.
Thus, the compositions herein utilize at
about 5 up to about 30 times the amount of
~2~03~
--10--
distearyldimethylammonium chloride that is suggested
by the supplier for use as a fabric softener. Use of
similar calculations for the more preferred amounts
of distearyldimethylammonium chloride used herein,
shows its concentration to be about 10 to about 20
times greater than that suggested for fabric softener
use.
The amount of distearyldimethylamonium salt
utilized herein, about10.25 to about 4 weight
percent, is considered to constitute a dilute aqueous
dispersion. Nevertheless, the results of Example 2
and Example 7 indicate that distearyldimethylammonium
chloride does not exhaust from the composition as is
suggested by the manufacturer as to its use as a
fabric softener.
In addition, increasing amounts of this
conditioning agent do not cause an increasing amount
of deposition as is the case for the other, usual
conditioning agents studied. Furthermore, the amount
of distearyldimethylammonium salt utilized in the
present human hair conditioners is about 5 to a~out
30 times greater than that suggested for use as a
fabric softener. It is still further noted that
distearyldimethylammonium salts do not provide
softness or fluffiness (limpness) to hair as compared
to other, usually used hair conditioners.
It is therefore believed that the use of a
distearyldimethylammonium salt as a conditioning
ingredient of a human hair conditioner is different
from the use of the same material as a fabric
softener.
The CTFA Cosmetic In~redient DictionarY
(hereinafter referred to as the CTFA Dictiona~
Third Edition, published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry
and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.,
--ll--
1982 names distearyldimethylam~nonium chloride as
distearyldimonium chloride, and lists two other
sources of the material. Those sources are American
Hoechst Corporation Industrial Chemicals Division,
Somerville, NJ, that sells the material under the
trademark BENAMIN DSAC, and Humko Chemical Division
of Witco Chemical Corporation of Memphis, TN, that
sells this material under the trademark KEMAMIN~
Q-9902C. Distearyldimethylammonium chloride from any
of the three suppliers may be used herein, preferably
with adjustments for the percentage of active
material present in the products.
A dimethyldi(hydrogenated tallow)ammonium
salt is named in the CTFA Dictionary as
quaternium-18, and is shown to be available from two
sources. These sources are the Sherex Chemical
Company, Inc., Dublin, OH, a subsidiary of ~chering
A.G. that sells the material under the trademarks
ADOGEN-442, -442-lOOP and VARISOFT 100, and from
Humko Chemical Division of Witco Chemical Corporation
that sells this material under the trademark KEMAMINE
Q-9702C. A similar material described and shown as
bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl)dimethylammonium
methylsulfate is named in the CTFA Dictionary as
~uaternium-18 methosulfate, and is available from
Lonza, Inc., Fairlawn, NJ, supplied under the
trademark CAROSOFT V-100. Each of the above
materials may also be utilized herein, again
preferably with adjustments for the percentage of
active materials present.
The second ingredient of a composition of
this invention is a static-reducing agent. The
static reducing agent is a nonionic organic material
that is water-insoluble, non-oily, has a Brookfield
viscosity at 26C. (79F~) of less ~han about 50
-12-
centipoises, is a liquid at ~0C, and has a
re~ractive index at 25C. of about 1.4 to about 1.5.
As used herein, the term "nonionic" is meant
to indicate that the static reducing agent bears no
ionic charge in an aqueous composition, and therefore
is free from cationic groups such as quaternary
ammonium groups or protonatable nitrogen atoms,
anionic groups such as carboxylic, sulfonic or
phosphoric acid functionality, and is also free from
10 zwitterionic functionality such as is found in
betaines, sulfobetaines and may be represented ln the
formulae or amine oxides. The term
"water-insoluble" is meant to have its usual
implication in the art, namely that the
15 static-reducing agent has substantially no solubility
in water at 20C., inasmuch as every material has
some, albeit small, solubility in water. The term
"non-oily" is used herein to mean that the
static-reducing agent does not provide a greasy, oily
20 feel to the skin when it is applied thereto. These
agents have a Brookfield viscosity of less than 50
centipoises when measured at 26C. (79F.), and may
therefore be referred to as having a low viscosity.
The static-reducing agents useful in here are liquids
25 at 20C.
A further characteristic of the
static-reducing agents is that they have refractive
indices at 25C. of about 1.4 to about 1.5. In q
addition to lowering the static charye on dry, combed
30 hair conditioned with a cationic polymer-containing
human hair conditioner~ the static-reducing agent
also deposits to some extent on the hair fibers.
Since this material deposits on the hair, it is
important that the deposit not make the hair appear
35 to be dull~ Consequently, a relatively high
~2~g~3~i~
-13-
refractive index coupled to the ability to reduce
static charge induced on combing hair treated with a
cationic polymer and the before-mentioned properties
is an important, additional characteristic of the
static-reducing agent.
Two static-reducing agents have been found
to be particularly useful. These materials are both
esters.
One, which is particularly preferred, is the
reaction product of a mixture of caprylic and capric
acids with glycerol; i.e., a glycerol mixed
C8-C10 fatty acid triester. This material is
available commercially under the trademarks LEXOL GT
865 and 855 from Inolex Chemicals, Philadelphia, PA.
Similar materials are sold under the trademarks
MYRITOL 318 and STANDAMUL 318 both supplied by the
Chemical Specialty division of the Henkel Corporation
of Hobokenl NJ, LIPONATE GC supplied by LIPO
Chemicals, Inc., Paterson, NJ, MIGLYOL-810 Neutral
oil and 812 Neutral oil supplied by Dynamit Nobel AG
(Kay-Fries, Inc. distributor), and Vegetable Oil
1400, NEOBEE M-5 and NEOBEE O supplied by PVO
International, Inc., New York, NY.
A11 o these materials are designated in the
CTFA Dictionary as caprylic/capric triglyceride, and
will be so denominated herein. Typical physical
properties for caprylic/capric triglyceride include a
saponification value of about 335-355, an acid value
of 0.1 maximum, an iodine value of 0.5 to 1.0
maximum, solidification point of about 8C. or less,
a specific gravity at 25C. of 0.945-0.95, and a
refractive index at 25C. of about 1.43 to about
1.45.
The suppliers' literature for
caprylic/capric triglyceride suggest its use as an
23158-1352
~L2~3~9
-14-
emollient in creams and lotions, as a vehicle for
bath oils and electric pre-shave lotions and as a
vehicle for medicinals, antibiotics and vitamins.
Uses as a stabilizer for emulsions and in cosmetic
waxes are also s~qgested.
The second useful static-reducing agent is
~: an ester reaction produc~ of mixed C12-C15
alcohols and benzoic acid. This material has the
CTFA Dictionary designation C12-15 alcohols benzoate
and is commercially available under ~he trademark
FINSOLV TN sold by Finetex, Inc. of Elmwood Park,
NJ. This material is noted in U.S. Patents No.
4,275,222; No. 4,278,655, No. 4,293,544
No. 4,3~2,545 and No. ~,323,694.
i
Typical physical properties for C12-15
alcohols benzoate from the supplier's literature
include a boiling point of 300C, a freezing point
range of -3~ to -12C., a specific gravity of 0.923,
a refractive index of 1.479-1.481, a Brookfield
viscosity at 70F, RVl spindle and 100 rpm of 40-45
centipoises, and a saponification value of 170-177.
The supplier's literature describes FINSOLV
TN as a non-oily skin lubricant, as well as an
emollient for use in body oils, bath oils and skin
creams without the oily feel of mineral oil or
isopropyl myristate, the latter material also being
said to be replaceable by FINSOLV TN. FINSOLV TN is
also said to be suited esDecially for imparting a dry
talc feel to the above compositions as well as to
conditioning shampoos and hair conditioners.
The static-reducing agent is present in
about 0.25 to about 4 weight percent of the
conditioning composition, and is more preferably
present at about 1.5 to about 2.5 weight percent.
,b.~
399
As is shown from the data in Examples 5 and
8, the static-reducing agent, when admixed in the
above amounts and in the weight ratios to the
cationic film-forming polymer, discussed hereinafter,
interacts with that polymer to reduce the static
charge induced by combing dried hair treated with the
conditioner that also includes a useful amount of a
distearyldimethylammonium salt. The combing-induced
static is reduced to a level below that induced by a
similar composition that is free of the
; static-reducing agent.
For bleached-waved hair, the induced static
charge on the hair may be further reduced to a level
- below that induced when either the polymer or the
static-reducing agent is used alone in the absence of
the other ingredient. These results are quite
unexpected and the reasons for them are not
understood.
The third ingredient of a composition of
this invention is a cationic, film-forming polymer
having a plurality of quaternary nitrogen atoms;
i.e., a polymeric quaternary nitrogen-containing
conditioning agent. The quaternary nitrogen atoms of
such polymers preferably bear at least two methyl
substituents.
The useful polymers are "cationic" in that
they bear a net positive ionic charge in aqueous
solution. The term ~film-formingl' is meant to
indicate that the polymers provide a film when a
polymer-containing aqueous solution or dispersion is
spread over a substrate and allowed to dry.
Quaternary nitrogen atoms of these polymers are each
covalently bonded to four carbon atoms and are
therefore positively char~ed and cationic, since the
usual valence for nitrogen is three.
3~g
23158-1352
- 16 -
Illustrative cationic, film-forming polymers
include (a) the materials sold under the trademarks
POLYMER JR-30M, JR-125 and JR-400 by Union Carbide
Corp., Danbury, CT, that are designated in the CTFA
as polyquaternium-10 and said ~o be a
polymeric quaternary ammonium salt reaction product
of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a
trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide, and are
disclosed and claimed in United States Patent
No. 3,472,840; (b) the material sold under the txademarks
CELQUAT H60 and L200 by National Starch and Chemical
Corp., Bridgewater, NJ, that are designated in the
CTFA Dictionary as polyquaternium-4, and said to be
copolymers of hydroxyethyl cellulose and
diallyldimethylammonium chloride, the supplier's
literature indicating that the cationic polymer is
grafted onto the cellulosic backbone; (c) and (d) the
materials sold under the trademarks MERQUAT-100 and
-550 (and a material very similar in description to
MERQUAT-550 designated MERQUAT-S) by the Merck
Chemical Division of Merck & Co., Inc., Rahway, NJ,
that are designated as polyquaternium-6 and -7 in the
CTFA Dictionary, and are said to be a homopolymer of
diallyldimethylammonium chloride and a copolymer
reaction product of diallyldimethylammonium chloride
and acrylamide monomers, respectively; (e) the
materials sold under the trademarks GAFQUAT-734 and
-755 by GAF Corp., ~ayne, NJ, that are designated as
polyquaternium-ll in the CTFA Dictionary and are said
to be quaternary ammonium polymer reaction products
of dimethyl sulfate and a copolymer of vinyl
pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate;
(f) the material sold under the trademark BINA
QAT P-100 by Ciba-Geigy Corporation Dyestuff &
~2~i~3~3~
Chemicals Division, of Greensboro, NC, that is said
by the supplier to have the CTFA adopted name
polyquaternium-15, to be a copolymer of acrylamide
and methacryloyl-oxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride
and to have a degree of quaternization of 2 2
millimoles per gram of polymer; and (g) the material
sold under the trademarks L WIQUAT FC-905, -550 and
-37 by ~ASF Aktiengesellshaft, Ludwidshafan, FRD
(also available from A~MAC Industrial Chemicals
Division, Philadelphia, PA), that are said in the
supplier's literature to be copolymers of
methylvinylimidazolium chloride and vinyl
pyrrolidone, the copolymers being prepared from the
monomers in weight ratios of 95:5, 50:50 and 30:70,
respectively. The cationic, film-forming polymer
sold under the trademark POLYMER JR-30M,
polyquaternium-10, is particularly preferred.
Each of the above cationic polymers is
suggested by its supplier or known by those skilled
in the art to be useful as a hair conditioning
agent. Each is also known or suggested to have
film-forming properties and is thereby possibly
useful for improving the set holding properties of a
human hair conditioner. However, each of the above
materials, when used in an amount sufficient to
provide a desired amount of set holding and
conditioning, is also so substantive to the hair that
the normally anionic hair becomes cationic and is
susceptible of bearing a static charge when combed in
the dry state. The preferred combination of
ingredients herein provides desirable levels of
conditioning and set holding, while minimizing
combing-induced static that would otherwise be
present due to the use of a cationic polymer.
- 35
-18-
The quaternary nitrogen-containing,
film-forming polymer may be present in an amount in
about 0.05 to about 1.~ weight percent of the total
composition, and is more preferably present at about
0.1 ~o about 0.5 weight percent of the composition.
The weight ratio of the static-reducing
agent to the cationic, quaternary nitrogen-containing
polymer is also of import herein. That weight ratio
is preferably about 2:1 to about 20:1. In more
preferred practice, that weight ratio is about 5:1 to
about 20:1.
As was noted previously, use of the
static-reducing agent in the conditioning composition
containing the cationic polymer provides conditioned
hair with less induced static charge on combing the
dry hair than does a similar composition that is free
from the static-reducing agent. The data of Example
5 illustrate the effect on combing-induced static
charge provided by the cationic polymer, and the
beneficial effect of the static-reducing agent in
decreasing the induced static when used in the
various proportions by weight disclosed above.
The data in Example 8 illustrate the effect
on combing-induced static provided individually by
the cationic polymer and static-reducing agent, as
well as their synergistic effect when used together
in the various proportions by weight disclosed
above.
The conditioning compositions of this
invention are substantially homogeneous when applied
to the hair. In preferred practice, the composition
is a stable, non-settling, non-separating aqueous
emulsion; i.e., an emulsion from which components
neither precipitate nor separate into different
33~9
--19--
phases upon standing at a temperature of about 20C
(about 68F.) for a period of at least one month.
Thus, the composition may contain one or
more emulsifying agents that provide the above-
described stable emulsion ~hile not materiallyaffecting the basic and novel characteristics of the
composition such as compromising the desired effect
of providing lessened static to conditioned hair than
is otherwise provided by a composition of this
invention.
Exemplary emulsifying and thickening agents
useful herein include cetyl and stearyl alcohols and
mi~tures thereof; polyoxyethylene glycol ethers of
C14-C18 alcohols that contain an average of about
1 to about 7 polymerized ethylene oxide units per
molecule and their mixtures such as the materials
denominated pareth-45-7, ceteth-l, ceteth-5, oleth-3,
steareth-2 and steareth-6 in the CTFA Dictionary; and
polyoxypropylene Cl~-C18 alcohol ethers
containing an average of about 10 to about 30
polymerized propylene oxide units per molecule and
their mixtures such as the materials denominated
PPG 11 stearyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, PPG-30
cetyl ether and PPG-23 oleyl ether in the CTFA
Dictionary. Nonionic hydroxyalkylcellulose ether
derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose and
hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and the like, as are
well known in the art as useful thickeners.
As already noted, the compositions of this
invention need be substantially homogeneous only at
the time they are applied to the hair fibers, and
consequently their presence in a stable,
non-settling, non-separating emulsion, while
preferred, is not required. It is also noted that
the static-reducing agent is water-insoluble.
3~9
-20-
A simple composition may also be prepared in
which the static-reducing agent, when present, is
made dispersible, and the dispersion of the
distearyldimethylammonium salt is improved by use of
5 a cosmetically acceptable organic, water-miscible
solvent such as propylene glycol, ethanol, glycerol
and the like, as are known to those skilled in the
art. For example, a useful composition may be
prepared that contains water, having dispersed
therein 2 percent by weight propylene glycol, 2
percent by weight caprylic/capric triglyceride, 0.5
to ~ percent by weight distearlydimethylammonium
chloride and 0.15 weight percent polyquaternium-10.
Similar compositions containing about 5 weight
percent ethanol are also useful. Additional
compositions containing about 2 weight percent
propylene glycol or about 5 weight percent ethanol
and about 0.25 to about 4 weight percent of a
distearyldimethylammonium salt may also be prepared
and utilized herein. Such compositions may be made
substantially homogeneous by agitation as by shaking
immediately prior to use to form compositions that
may then be applied to the hair.
In addition to emulsifying agents, other
ingredients that do not affect the basic and novel
static-lowering effects of a composition of this
invention may also be included. Exemplary of such
materials are viscosity controlling salts such as
alkali metal or ammonium halides including sodium
chloride, potassium chloride, ammonium bromide, and
the like; pH value adjusting agents such as
hydrochloric acid, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, and
the like; preservatives, colorants and sun-screening,
ultraviolet light-absorbing agents as are known in
the art.
12~i~39~
Also contemplated by this invention is a
method of conditioning human hair. This method
includes the steps of providing a human hair
conditioner (a) that is the improved hair conditioner
containing water and a conditioning amount of a
distearyldimethylammonium salt~ or (b) for
conditioning in the presence of a hair set-improving
cationic polymer to provide a reduced amount of
combing-induced static charge to the hair when that
conditioned hair in the dry state is combed consists
essentially of an aqueous composition of about 0.25
to about 4 weight percent of a static-reducing agent
described before, abo~t 0.05 to about 1.0 weight
percent of a ~uaternary nitrogen-containing
conditioning film-forming polymer and about 0.25 to
about 4 weight percent of a distearyldimethylammonium
salt; the weight ratio of the static-reducing agent
to the quaternary nitrogen-containing polymer of such
a composition is about 2:1 to about 20:1.
The conditioning composition 50 provided is
applied in a substantially homogeneous form,
preferably as a stable emulsion, to human hair. The
applied conditioner is maintained on the hair for a
time period sufficient for the conditioner to contact
the hair fibers. Preferably, the conditioner is
physically spread through the hair with the fingers
or by a comb or other means to assure that contact.
The contacted hair fibers are then rinsed with water,
and the water-rinsed, conditioned hair is dried.
Hair treated according to this method has
less combing-induced static when it is combed in a
dried state than does hair treated with a similar
composition that is free of the static-reducing
agent. In addition, use of the above method also
typically provides an improved set to freshly
-22-
shampooed chemically treated hair such as hair that
has been bleached and/or waved as compared to other
conditioners known in the art, particularly those
other conditioners that provide similar conditioning
and low induced static charge effects.
The invention is further illustrated by the
examples that follow.
Best Modes for Carryinq Out the Invention
Example 1. Hair Conditioninq ComPositions
This example describes the preparation of
hair conditioning compositions of this invention
containing a static-reducing agent in combination
with a cationic, film-forming polymer having a
plurality of quarternary nitrogen atoms, and a
distearyldimethylammonium salt. The ingredients and
their amounts are listed in the Table below, followed
by a method of preparation for the compositions.
~3~
-23-
Inqredient A B C D E
Oil Phase I
Distearyldimethylammonium 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 2.0
chloride
Static-reducing agent A 0.5 --- 1.0 2.0
Sta~ic-reducing agent B --- 0.5 1.5 ---
Stearyl alcohol 1.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
Polyoxyethylene (2) 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0
stearylether
Polyoxypropylene t30)
cetylether 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5
Ultraviolet absorber q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Waterphase II
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.25 0.25 0.5 0.5 0.50
15 Quaternary nitrogen-
containing polymer 0.10 0.10 0.05 0.30 0.15
Preservative 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
Citric acid (50%
in water) to pH 4-5 q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
20 Sodium hydroxide (25%
in water) to pH 4-5 q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Potassium chloride 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05
Water, soft to 100% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Phase III
25 Fragrance q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Color q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
A caprylic/capric tri~lyceride such as the mixed
triester of glycerin and caprylic and capric acids
supplied by Inolex Chemicals under the trademark
LEXOL GT865.
A C12-15 alcohols benzoate such as the ester of
benzoic acid and C12-C15 alcohols supplied by
Finetex Inc. under the trademark FINSOLV TN.
9~
-24-
***
A polymeric quaternar~ ammonium salt of hydroxy-
ethyl cellulose reacted with a
trimethylammonium-substituted epoxide supplied by
Union Carbide Corporation under the trademark POLYMER
JR-30M~
The compositions are prepared by methods well known
in the art for preparing emulsions. Briefly, the
ingredients of the oil phase I are heated together in a
first vessel to a temperature of about 80-85C. (about
175-185F.). The ingredients of the water phase II are
heated together in a second vessel to a temperature of
about 77-80C. tabout 170-175F.). The contents of the
second vessel are then added to the heated contents of the
first vessel with mixing agitation until a substantially
homogeneous emulsion is formed. The emulsion is cooled to
about 35C. (about 95F.), and the ingredients of phase III
are added and admixed to substantial homogeneity.
0 Example 2. Cationic Deposition on Hair
This example demonstrates the beneficial effects of
the use of a distearyldimethylammonium salt in human hair
conditioner compositions of this invention in depositing
cationic material on the hair without resul~ing in excess5 deposition of the cationic conditioning agent on the hair.
Natural white microtresses of human hair (DeMeo
Brothers, New York), of approximately 4 inches in length
and about 0.1 grams in weight were embedded in standard
size tresses of about 6 inches in length and about 1.75
grams in weight to ~orm composite tresses. Each composite
tress was washed with a conventional commercial shampoo in
a conventional manner, and excess water was stripped from
the hair with the fingers.
-25-
The stripped composi~e tresses were
subsequently individually conditioned by applying 1.0
milliliters (ml) of an aqueous conditioner composition
containing 2 weight percent propylene glycol, 2 weight
percent caprylic/capric triglyceride (static-reducing
agent A of Example 1) and a quaternary ammonium
compound of the type and amount shown hereinafter.
The conditioner composition was rubbed through
the composite tresses for one minute after which the
tresses were rinsed with a spray of warm water of about
30 degrees C. tabout 86 degrees F.) for about 30
seconds. The embedded microtresses were subsequently
removed fro~ the treated tresses and were further
treated by the well known rubine dye test in the
following manner.
Microtresses were individually immersed for a
period of about 5 minutes in aqueous solutions
containing 0.5 percent rubine dye, having a p~I value of
3.5 and a temperature of about 40 degrees C. (about 104
degrees F.). The microtresses were subsequently rinsed
with water having a temperature of about 25 degrees C.
(about 77 degrees F.) for about 15 seconds. The color
of the treated tress~swas compared to a color intensity
standard ranging from 1 (very faint pink color) to 5
(deep purplish red).
Four cationic materials were examined ranging
in amounts of from 0.5 to 2.0 weight percent in the
presence and absence of the caprylic/capric
triglyceride static-reducing agent. Color intensity
standards were separately prepared for each cationic
material in the absence of a static-reducing agent.
The color intensity st~ndard for each cationic material
was prepared by applying a known amount of the cationic
material free from the static-reducing agent to a clean
dry microtress. The cationic material was rubbed into
the hair until it was completely absorbed and the
~99
-26-
to dry. Each treated microtress was subsequently
treated with the rubine dye solution in the manner
described above. ~he color standard microtresses
prepared were treated with amounts of individual
cationic materials ranging from 0.3 to 2.5 milligrams
of cationic material per gram of hair (mg/g).
Panelists were asked to score tresses
treated with the conditioner compositions containing
the four non-polymeric, relatively low molecular
weight, cationic materials against the specific color
intensity standard for the cationic material present,
and the scores were converted ~o a calculated,
predetermined amount of cationic present per gram of
hair.
For comparison, a conditioner composition
containing 1 percent cationic material and no
static-reducing agent was utilized as a control. The
results were as follows, based on duplicate tresses
ranked by six panelists.
Cationic material with Weight Percent Cationic Deposition
2~ static~reducing agent of compositioll (m~/g hair) + S.D.*
A. Stearyldimethyl 0.5 0.7340 + 0.1538
benzylammonium chloride 1.0 0.6318 + 0.1669
2S 1.5 0.6619 + 002077
2.0 1.0033 + 0.2286
B. Cetyltrimethylammonium 0.5 0.5404 + 0.0294
chloride 1.0 0.5417 + 0.0347
1.5 0.7801 + 0.1515
2.0 0.7369 + 0.1316
C. Dicetyldimonium chloride*~ 0.5 0.9196 + 0.2737
1.0 1.1181 ~ 0.3171
1.5 1.3358 + 0.1955
2.0 1.5275 + 0.5580
~6U3~9
D. Di3tearyldimethyl 0.~ 0.5306 + 0.0365
a~monium chloride 1.0 0.5276 ~ 0.0445
1.5 0.5625 1 0.0549
2.0 0.5500 + 0.0280
Cationic material
without static- Weight Percent Cationic Deposition
10 reducing agent of composition (mg/g hair) ~ S.D.
A. (Above) 1.0 0.8787 + 0.1973
. (Above) 1~0 0.6195 , 0.0630
C. (Above)~ 1.0 0.7854 ~ 0.2132
D. (Above) 1.0 0.5620 + 0.0387
S.D. = Standard Deviation.
~* CTFA adopted name for a l-hexadecanaminium,
N-hexadecyl-N,N-dimethyl chloride, as defined in the CTFA
Dictionary.
The above data show that conditioner
compositions containing distearyldimethylammonium
chloride produced the least amount of cationic
deposition on the hair, and that that amount was
substantially the same between a range of from 0.5 to
2.0 weight percent cationic material present in the
composition studied, in the presence or absence of a
static-reducing agent~ The results further show
that, except for the composition containing
dicetyldimonium chloride~ compositions containing the
static-reducing agent produced less cationic
deposition on the hair than did the corresponding
composition without the static-reducing agent.
Example 3. Improved Set Retention of Waved Hair
This example demonstrates benefits in
improving the set retention of permanently waved hair
3~
-28-
that has had its curl relaxed by being subjected to
multiple washing and conditioning treatments prior to
being conditioned with a composition of this
invention.
A series of 16 tresses of about 6 inches in
length and about 2 grams in weight were prepared from
normal, naturally brown human hair (DeMeo Brothers,
New York). Each tress was given a permanent wave
treatment using a commercial permanent wave salon
product for "normal" type hair according to the
manufacturer's instructions. The waved tresses were
dried for 15 minutes under a commercial salon-style
hair dryer set at a "normal" heat setting having an
air temperature of about 31 degrees C (about 89
degrees F,). The dry tresses were suspended
vertically, and the curl was allowed to relax
naturally at ambient room temperature and humidity
for 48 hours.
Sets of four tresses were subjected to a
regimen of washing and conditioning with commercially
paired shampoo and conditioner products according to
the manufacturers' instructions. The regimen for
washing and conditioning the hair is described
below.
The hair washing procedure comprised the
steps of wetting the hair with water, applying 1 ml
of shampoo per tress, rubbing and massaging-in the
shampoo for about 1 minute, and then spray rinsing
the hair with warm water (30 degrees C., about 86
degrees F.) for 1 minute at a flow rate of about 1800
ml per minute. The excess water was removed by
stripping the hair with the fingers.
The hair conditioning procedure comprised
the steps of applying 1 ml of conditioner product per
tress, rubbing and massaging-in the conditioner for
~3'99
-29-
about 1 minute, and then spray rinsing the hair with
warm water in the manner described above for a period
of 30 seconds~ Excess water was removed from the
hair by sripping it from the hair with the fingers.
The tress was dried under a salon-style hair dryer
set at a "normal" heat setting as described above for
a period of about 15 minutes. The dry, treated tress
was then combed with 5 passes of a hard rubber comb.
One total treatment regimen comprised the
above steps of hair washing and hair conditioning.
Each regimen was repeated in its entirety for a total
of 9 treatments. A 10th washing and conditioning
regimen was carried out in the same manner, except
that the wet, shampooed hair was wound onto a
conventional plastic hair roller having an outside
diameter of about 0.5 inches (about 1.2 centimeters),
and was allowed to dry so wound overnight at ambient
room temperature of about 20-22C. (about 68-72
degrees F.) at ambient room humidity conditions.
The set holding retention of the 10-times
treated tress was examined in the following manner.
The dry-wound tress was equilibrated in a chamber for
one hour at a relative humidity of 85-90% at an
ambient temperature of about 20-22 degrees C. (about
68-72 degrees F.) the tress was removed from the
chamber, and the roller was removed from the hair.
The unwound tress was suspended vertically, and the
hanging length of the curl was measured (initial
length). The hanging length of the tress was
remeasured at hourly intervals over a period of 6
hours. The amount of set retained by the hair after
relaxing the curl for a certain amount of time was
calculated from the following formula in a manner
well known in the art.
23158-1352
3~g
-30-
%Set Retention = L-L(t~ x 100,
L-L(o)
where L = length of the hair tress fully extended;
L(o) = initial length of the hair curl; and
L(t) = length of the hair curl at time (t).
The percent se~ retention was plotted
against time using a least squares analysis approach
described by Diaz and Wong, in "Set Relaxation of
Human Hair, n J . SOc . Cosmet. Chem., 34, pages
205-212, tl983J. The holding power was calculated
from the average area under the curve obtained
as a~hoid~in~ power function according to the method
of Diaz and Won~.
,
After the set retention was measured for the
10-times treated tresses, the same tresses received
an 11th washing with shampoo as described above,
followed by a conditioning treatment with conditioner
composition D of Example 1 instead of the commercial
conditioner previously used. Set retention was
otherwise examined and the holding power function for
each tress was calculated in the manner described
before.
The set retention obtained after the 10th
treatment was compared against that of the 11th
treatment by statistically comparing the individual
holding power functions calculated from the curves
for each treatment. The results are shown below.
~2~3~91
Holding Power Function
(calculated area from % set
retention vs. time in hours)
Tre~s I II Percent
treatment after lO~h after 11th increase
regimen Ireatment Treatment of II-I
1~ Ccmmercial Shampoo A 534.4
Ccmmercial Ccnditioner A
2. Cammercial Shampoo A 57501 5
Conditioner D, Example 1
3. Ccmmercial Shampco B,544.0
Commecial Conditioner B
4. Cammercial Shampoo B, 577.5 5
conditioner D, Example 1
5. Ccmmercial Shampoo C,530.5
Commercial Conditioner C
6. Ccmmercial Shampoo C, 558.4 5
Conditioner D, Example 1
7. Commercial Shampoo D,507.0
Commercial Conditioner D
8. Commercial Shampoo D, 555.3 10
Conditioner D, Example 1
: 30
3~9
-32-
The above data show that a conditioner of
this invention (conditioner ~, of Example l) improved
the holding power of each of the waved tresses by a
factor of from about 5 to about lO percent. The
improvement was determined to be statistically
significant at a confidence level of g5% based on the
- well known Student's t-test for the tress series #2,
#4, and #8 receiving a regimen of treatment with
commercial shampoo and conditioner products A, B, and
D respectively.
The active conditioner(s) present according
t~o the labeled ingredients in commercial conditioner
products were as follows: product A contained
dicetyldimethylammonium chloride ~previously
identified in Example 2); product B contained a
mixture of dicetyldimethylammonium chloride and
cetyltrimethylammonium chloride; product C contained
cetyltrimethylammonium chloride; and product D
contained dicetyldimethylammonium chloride.
The results show the beneficial conditioning
effect of the conditioner of this invention reflected
as an improvement in the holding power of waved hair
after multiple washings. The holding power of waved
hair is known to be weakened by such multiple
washings. Thus, an advantageous boost in the holding
; power of waved hair over a period of time from a
conditioning treatment would be highly beneficial to
the lastingness o~ the curl obtained with permanent
wave treatments.
Example 4. Improved Set Retention of Waved Hair
The procedure of Example 3 w~s followed
except that the total number of the treatments was
- doubled. Thus, the holding power function was
calculated from the average area obtained from
~3
-33
percent set retention versus time in hours curves
after a 20th treatment in Column I and a 21st
treatment in Column II in the Table below.
~2603~
--34--
Holding Pc~7er E'unction
(calculated area frcn % set
~ .
Tress I II Percent
treabnent after 20th after 21st increase
reqimen _ _ Treatment Treatment of II-I
lo C~nercial 5hanpoo A 550.6
C~nnercial C~nditioner A
2. Cnercial Sh~npoo A 575.1 4
Conditioner D, Ex~nple 1
3. C~ercial Shampoo B, 549.1
Cannecial Cor~ditioner B
4. Cannercial Shampoo B, 571.2 4
o~nditioner D, Example 1
155. Cannercial Shampoo C, 545.8
Ccmmercial Conditioner C
6. Calmercial Sh~npoo C, 572.5 4
Conditioner D, Example 1
7. Crmercial Shampoo D, 547.3
CaTrnercial Conditioner D
8. C~mercial Shampoo D, 583.0 7
Conditioner D, Example 1
: 25
~LZ~3~9
-35-
The data above show that Conditioner D of
Example 1 improved the holding power of each o~ the
waved tresses by a factor of from about 4 to about 7
percent. The improvement was determined to be
statistically significant at a confidence level of
90% for the tress series #2 and #8, and at a
confidence level of 80% for tress series #6 based on
a Student's t-test analysis.
It is also noted that the data of Example 3
and of this Example show no reversals of improvement
in set holding even though all of the results were
not statistically significant at high levels of
confidence. The fact that there are no improvement
reversals is believed to indicate that the lack of
statistically significant differences at high
confidence levels is a function of the relatively
small number of tresses utilized in each condition,
to the relatively wide scatter of data obtained using
human hair as a substrate, and to curl relaxation as
a method of analysis. It is thus believed that the
differences in set holding between the treatment
regimens are real, and that the conditioning
compositions of the present invention provide
improved set holding effects over other conditioners
of the art.
Example 5. Static Charge Reduction
This example demonstrates the beneficial
effect of the static reducing agent used in a hair
conditioner of this invention to minimize the static
charge induced by cationic polymers when the
conditioned, dry hair is combed.
A series of natural brown hair tresses
(DeMeo Brothers, New York) about 6 inches in length
and about 2 grams in weight were prepared. The
-36-
tresses were thoroughly washed in the usual manner
with a commercial shampoo product known to contain no
cationic film-forming polymer rontaining a plurality
of quaternary nitrogen atoms. Excess water was
str;pped from the hair with the fingers.
The shampooed tresses were individually
conditioned with a conditioning solution identified
hereinafter by applying 0.5 grams of solution per
tress, and permitting the conditioner to maintain
contact with the hair fibers for about 30 seconds.
Each treated tress was subsequently rinsed for about
30 seconds with tap water having a temperature of
about 38 degrees C. (about 100 degrees F.). Each
conditioned tress was towel-dried, and then further
dried with a conventional electric hair dryer.
Each dried tress was combed to remove any
knots. It was then placed in a constant humidity
chamber at a relative humidity of about 43% for a
period of 24 hours at ambient, room temperature.
Static charge was induced on the equilibrated hair
and measured as follows.
The equilibrated, treated hair tress was
combed with 50 strokes of a hard rubber comb mounted
on a motorized device. The electric field strength
of the combing-induced st-atic charge on the hair was
immediately thereafter measured by the electrostatic
field detected with a sensing probe placed at a
distance of about 5 inches (about 12 centimeters)
from the surface of the tress~ The electrostatic
field measurement was carried out using a Model 354A
ESD monitor supplied by Trek, Inc. having a measuring
range of from 0 to 100 kilovolts/meter (kv/m). An
average of two readings per conditioning treatment
examined was taken.
The conditioning solutions contained 5
weight percent ethanol; 0.05-0.5 weight percent
~.26~3~3~
-37-
cationic polymer having a plurality of quaternary
nitrogen atoms; 0.0-4.0 weight percent of a
static-reducing agent; and soft water in quantity
sufficient to provide 100 weight percent. Three
cationic polymers and two static-reducing agents were
examined as identified below.
Static-Reducinq Agents
Ao Caprylic/capric triglyceride supplied
under the trademark LEXOL GT 865 by Inolex Chemicals.
B. C12-C15 Alcohols benzoate supplied under
the trademark FINSOLV TN by Finetex Inc.
Cationic PolYmers
A. A polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of
hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with a trimethyl
ammonium-substituted epoxide supplied under the
trademark POLYMER JR-30M by the Union Carbide Corp.
B. A copolymer of hydroxyethylcellulose and
diallyldimethylammonium chloride supplied under the
trademark CELQUAT L200 by National Starch and
Chemical Corp.
C. A copolymer reaction product of
diallyldimethylammonium chloride and acrylamide
monomers supplied under the trademark MERQUAT 550 by
the Merck Chemical Division of Merck ~ Co.
Series I_kv/m Static Charge Measured
Weight Percent
Static Reducing wei~ht Percent Cationic_Polymer A
Aqent A 0.05 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
0.0 60 74 88 105 110 120
77 _ _ 9
1.0 47 59 66 79 86 95
2.0 -- 53 -- 78 --- 91
4.0 -- -- 60 ~ 89
399
-38-
Series II kv/m Static Charqe Measured
Weight Percent
Static ReducingWeiqht Percent Cationic PolYmer A
Agent B 0.05 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
0.0 6074 88 105 110 120
1.0 5274 78 85 85 86
2.0 -- 68 -- 76 --- 78
10 Series III_kv~m Static Charge Measured
Weight Percent
Static ReducingWeiqht Percent Cationic Polymer B
Agent A 0.05 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
0.0 70 75 78 86 gO 98
0.5 -- -- 66 --- -- 82
1.0 41 52 60 70 74 80
2.0 -- 49 -- 66 -- 7~
4.0 ~ 51 --- -- 69
Series IVkv/m Static Charge Measured
Weight Percent
Static ReducingWeight Percent Cationic Polymer B
Aqent B 0.05 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
0.0 70 75 78 86 90 98
1.0 67 68 75 83 84 89
2.0 -- 62 -- 76 -- 85
~;26~3~
-39
Series V kv/m Static Charqe Measured
Weight Percent
Static ~educingWeiqht Percent Cationic PolYmer C
Agent A 0.05 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
0.0 39 42 48 52 55 55
0.5 ~ 48 -- -- 48
1.~ 26 30 36 43 47 53
2.0 -- 28 34 -- -- 49
4.0 -- -- 23 -- -- 29
_
Series VIkv/m Static Charqe Measured
Weight Percent
Static Reducing Weight Percent Cationic Polymer C
Aqent B 0.05 0 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5
0.0 39 42 48 52 55 55
1.0 22 23 25 31 35 42
2.0 -- 21 -- 25 -- 37
-
~0
The above data show that combing-induced
static charge on the hair increased as the amount of
cationic polymer increased, even in the presence of
the static-reducing agent. The data also show,
however, that the static-reducing agent decreased the
static charge on the hair induced by the cationic
polymer below levels induced by a similar composition
free of the static-reducing agent~
Example 6~ Cationic Deposition on Hair
The procedure of Example 2 was carried out,
except that the aqueous conditioning composition
contained 2 weight percent propylene glycol, 2 weight
percent distearyldimethylammonium chloride and from
0.5 to 3.0 weight percent of static-reducing agent as
shown below.
1~3~1
-40-
The amount of cationic deposition on the
hair was calculated from panelist ratings based on
the specific cationic color standards for
distearyldimethylammonium chloride, as discussed in
Example 2. The results are shown below.
Cationic
Static Reducing Weight percent Deposition
Agent (SRA) _ of SRA tm~/q hair1 + S.D.
A, from Example 5 0.5 0.3977 + 0.03
1.0 0.4648 + 0.04
2.0 0.5053 + 0.03
3.0 0.5097 + 0.03
B, from Example 5 0.5 0.4719 + 0.04
1.0 0.4018 + 0.05
2.0 0.5235 + 0.02
3.0 0.4822 + 0.03
The above data demonstrate the beneficial
effect of the static reducing agent in maintaining a
substantially similar or reduced amount of cationic
deposition on the hair from that produced by the
distearyldimethylammonium chloride as demonstrated ln
Example 2.
Example 7. Cationic Deposition on Hair
The procedure of Example 2 was followed
except that the aqueous conditioning composition
contained 2 weight percent static-reducing agent B
from Example 5, 2 weight percent propylene glycol and
from 0~5 to 2.0 weight percent
distearyldimethylammonium chloride (cationic~ as
shown below. The amount of cationic deposition was
39~
-41-
calculated from the panelists' ratings based on the
specific cationic color standard for
distearyldimethylammonium chloride. The results are
shown below.
Weight percent Cationic Deposition
Cationic in ComPOsition (mq/q hair) ~ S.D.
0.5 0,4103 + 0.05
1.0 0.4367 + 0.04
1.5 0.4905 + 0.04
2.0 0.4305 ~ 0.04
The above data show the beneficial effect of
the static-reducing agent in maintaining the
substantially similar amount of cationic deposition
produced by distearyld methylammonium chloride
throughout the range used (as demonstrated in
Example 2). The data further indicate that
distearyldimethylammonium chloride did not exhaust
from the composition nor did it cause increased
cationic deposition with increasing concentration in
combination with the static-reducing agent.
Example 8. Reduction of Combing-Induced
Static Charqe in Hair
This example demonstrates the synergistic
effect of the static-reducing agent and the cationic
polymer used together in weight proportions of from
5:1 to 20:1.
The conditioner composition E of Example 1
was utilized for this study, except for the
ultraviolet absorber and polyoxypropylene (30) cetyl
ether, absent to eliminate a possible emollient effect
that may be proYided by that latter material.
Variable amounts of caprylic/capric triglyceride as
~.26~
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static-reducing agent and quaternary
nitrogen-containing polymers were included as is
shown hereinafterO It is noted that 2 weight percent
distearyldimethylammonium chloride was present in
each composition.
A series of normal natural brown tresses
(DeMeo Brothers, New York) about 6 inches in length
and about 2 grams in weight were shampooed with a
conventional shampoo known to have no static-reducing
agents present. The shampooed tresses were
individually conditioned with 0~5 gram of one of the
conditioner compositions prepared. The conditioner
was applied to the wet hair tress and allowed to
contact the hair fibers for one minute. The tress
was then rinsed with water ha~ing a temperature of
about 38 degrees C. (about 100 degrees F.) for about
30 seconds.
Each conditioned tress was placed in a
dessicator chamber to dry overnight at a relative
humidity of 20% and at ambient f room temperature.
The dry tress was subsequently combed 50 times at 84
strokes of the comb per minute using a hard rubber
comb attached to an automated combing device. The
electric field strength of the combing-induced static
charge on the hair was measured in kilovolts per
meter tkv/m) with a Keithly Static Meter.
A second series of tresses were similarly
prepared except that, prior to treating the hair in
the manner described above, the tresses were given
one bleaching with a commercial bleach product
followed by one permanent wave with a commercial
salon wave product, according to each manufacturer's
instructions. This series of tresses are identified
hereinafter as bleached-waved hair.
The proportions of static-reducing agent
(SRA) and cationic polymer (CP) present in the
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conditioner compositions used, and the results
obtained follow.
Combing-Induced
S Static Charge on Hair
Weight(Kilovolts/m)
Ratio*Normal Hair Bleached-Waved
Composition (SRA:CP)Series _ Hair Series
A0~0:0.0 1.9 1.7
B 2:0.0 1.9 1.2
C0.0:0.2 2.1 2.2
D 1:0.2 1.5 1.8
E 2:0.2 1.6 1.5
F 3:0.2 1.6 1.4
G 4:0.2 2.1 1.5
. .
* The weight ratio of SRA:CP in formulae D,
E, F, and G respectively represent weight ratios of
5:1, 10:1, 15:1 and 20:1.
The data show that the static-reducing agent
and the cationic polymer individually induced more
static charge on the dry hair when it was combed than
did the combination of the two. The data also show
that the combination of static-reducing agent and
cationic polymer had a synergistic effect in
decreasing the combing-induced static charge on the
hair.
The present invention has been described
with respect to preferred embodiments. It will be
clear to those skilled in the art that modifications
and/or variations of the disclosed compositions and
methods can be made without departing from the scope
of the invention set forth herein.
