Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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~Z~9938
Cosmetic compositions having skin calming and skin
regeneratins effect and proceqs for the preparation
thereof
The invention relates to cosmetic compositions
having skin calming and skin renerating effect and B
process for the preparation thereof.
Back~round of the invention
In the c06metic industry cosmetic compositions
containing the extracts of natural substances (plant or
animal organs~ as active ingredient became agRin
conspicuous.
The ~o called phytocosmetic compositions which belong
to this clas~ contain the e~tracts of various plants,
mainl~ of medicinal plants (among others camomile,
burdock, cucumber, lemon etc.) or that of the waste or
the valuable parts of the cultivated plants (HU-PS 178.786
and 179.886, DOS 2.641.2~3).
One characteristic feature of the tired skin is the
decrease of the easily utilizable sugar content of the
cells. According to the GB-PS 1.286.156 the 109s of the
natural sugar content of the skin can be recovered by
cosmetic compositions which contain mainly ælucose and
fructose and optionally ribose, dezoxyribose and
glucosamine. ~he composition can be used as a powder or
in admi~ture with the usual co~metic vehicles.
~ he aim of the present invention is to prepare
cosmetic compositions suitable for calming and
regenerating the tired, dry skin.
~,
-- 2
Brief description of the invention
During our experiments it has been surprisingly found
that the extract of Jerusalem artichoke (Helianthus tuberosus L.
is suitable for the above purpose.
Detailed description of the in _ntlon
The invention relates to cosmetic compositions having
skin calming and regenerating effect comprising the extract of the
aerial shoot and/or tuber of Jerusalem artichoke as ac-tive ingre-
dient in an amount of 1.0 to 50.0~ together with the usual
vehicles and/or diluents and optionally other known additives.
Jerusalem artichoke is a tuberous plant belonging to the
compositae, the tuber of which in contrast to the potato does not
contain starch but it contains inulin as reserve nutriment. I'he
inulin content of the tuber is about 14 to 16%. Due to the inulin
content of the tubers Jerusalem artichoke is generally used in the
food and distilling industry because in the course of the acidic
hydrolysis of inulin mainly D-fructose and about 6~ D-glucose are
formed. The hydrolysis of inulin takes place faster and more
easily than that of potato starch. The hydrolysis takes place
also in diluted acetic acid but it is enough to boil the tubers in
water for some hours.
The other characteristic feature of Jerusalem artichoke
is that in the course of its growth season fungus infections are
only rarely observable and the rare infec-tions do not spread
(I. Izso, The Jerusalem artichoke, Akadémiai Kiado, Budapest,
1955). Based on this observation we have examined the extracts of
the
9938
aerial shoots and it has been found that the extracts
show a considerable fungicidal activity against several
fungi.
According to the invention extracts are prepared
from the aerial shoot and/or tuber of Jerusalem artichoke
and the extracts were used separately or in combination as
active ingredients of cosmetic compositions. During our
experiments it has been found that the extract of the
aerial shoot and the syrup prepared from the tuber as well
as their combination ~re remarkably suitable for calming
and regenerating the tired skin and for tre~ting certain
inflammatory conditions.
~ he favourable effects of the compositions of the
invention were examined in the following way.
~he face tonic (Example 7) was examined on 50 women
aged from 20 t~ 6~ years. It was applied after thorough
cleaning twice daily, in the morning and in the evening.
The treatment was continued ~or two weeks. ~he following
tgpes of the face skin were examined: 40 sligh~y dry,
10 sensitive dry skins. ~he tonic has been absorbed well
during each treatment, the skin became smooth, velvety.
During the treatment no aller~ic reaction, irritative
dermatitis or hypersensitiveness were observed.
The body lotion (Example 5) was tested on 22 women
2~ aged fro~ 19 to 72 years. ~he lotion was applied after
thorough washing twice daily, in the morning and in the
evening. The treatment was continued for two weeks.
~he following t~pes of skin were examined: 2 normal
sensitive, 4 dry sensitive, 8 dry and 8 normal BkinS. ~he
3 Composition has been absorbed well during each treatment,
the skin became velvety, smooth, the ~kin tightening and
~` 1269938
dryness which occurred after washing (having a bath or
shower bath~ stopped and the skin was calmed and refreshed.
No allergic reaction, irritative dermatitis or hgper-
sensitiveness were observed.
The extract of the aerial shoots and the ~yrup
prepared from the tuber can be mixed with the usual cosmetic
vehicles and diluents as well as with other known active
ingredients e.g. antibiotics, disinfectant~, for example
propolis and thereby stable composition~ are formed.
~he compositions are prepared in the following
way~
a~ the cleaned and crushed aerial shoot of
Jerusalem artichoke is extracted with a 1 to 10-fold
amount of water and/or alcohol at a temperature between
room temperature and the boiling point of the mixture
for from 12 to 168 hours, then the mixture is cooled and
filtered, the filtrate (solid substance content is
generally about from 0.2 to 6.0 %) is mixed with the
usual cosmetic vehicles and/or diluents, preferably with
natural fats~ oils, waxes, alcohols, e~ulsifying agents,
perfume substances and optionally with other Xnown
additives, preferably water binding agents, disinfectants
and antibacterial agents and the consistence of the
composition thus obtained is adausted with distilled
water and/or alcohol or
b) the washed and s~ed tuber of Jerusalem
artichoke is extracted with water~ the extract is filtered,
the filtrate is boiled for from 0.5 to 10 hours, the
solution thu~ obtained is filtered, the filtrate is
mixed with the usual co~metic vehicles and/or diluents,
preferably with natural fats, oils, waxes, alcohols,
126~3~3
emulsifying agents, perfume substances, and optionall~
with other known additives, preferabl~ water binding
agents, vitamins and antibacterial agents and the
consistence of the composition thus obtained is adjusted
with distilled water.
If desired the extracts prepared according to the
proce~ses a) and b) are mixed in a volume ratio between
0.5 : 1.0 and 2.0 : 20.0 and the combination is used as
active ingredient in cosmetic compositions.
The following non-limiting Examples show the
composition of the invention and the preparation of the
active ingredient.
Exam~le 1
Preparation of an aqueous extract from the aerial
shoots of Jeruæalem artichoke
1 kg of the cleaned and washed aerial æhoot of
Jerusalem artichoke is stirred for 8 hours in 10 litres
of water at 90C. Then the mixture is filtered and
the f'iltrate is stored under cooling, protected from
light and air.
_x~le 2
Preparation of an alcoholic extract from the
aerial shoot of Jerusalem artichoke
1 kg of cleaned and washed aerial shoot of
Jerusalem artichoke is allowed to ætand for 4 days in
4 litres of 70 ~ aqueou~ ethanol. The mixture i8 ~tirred
several times daily, then after 4 day~ it i~ filtered
and the filtrate is ætored under cooling, protected from
light and air.
126993~3
~Q~
Preparation of an extract - ~yrup - from the
tuber of Jerusalem artichoke
1 kg of the wa~hed and sliced tuber of JerusPlem
artichoke is extracted with 10 litres of water for 12
hours and the extract is filteredO ~o the filtrate 25
ml of acetic acid are added and the ~olution is boiled
for 30 minutes. Then it i~ allowed to cool, filtered a~d
stored under cooling.
~xam~le 4
Cream
Components
Extract of Example 1 ` 25.0 g
Cetyl Plcohol 3.5 g
15 Vaseline oil (cosmetic qualit~) 8.0 g
Propylene glycol 5.0 g
~RIJ J21 ~ t~~ar k 3.5 g
Ethanol (96 %) 4.0 g
Nipagine ~ t~a~ r k o. 2 g
20 Stearic acid 4.0 g
Distilled water 46.8 g
Exam~le ~
~ody lotion
Components
25 Extract of Example 1 22.0 g
Oleum h¢lianthi 2.5 g
Glycerol
~ 1269938
-- 7 --
Geranium oil 0.2 g
Nipagine 0.2 g
Sodium dodecylsulfate 0.6 g
Cetyl alcohol 5.0 g
5 Paraffin oil 2.0 g
Distilled water 44.0 g
Example 6
Cream
Component~
10 Extract of Example 1 21.0 g
Extract of Example 3 3.5 g
Cetyl alcohol 1.0 g
BRIJ J2 2.3 G
Va~eline oil (cosmetic quality) 8.0 g
15 E~hanol (96 %) 6.0 g
Nipagine 0.2 g
Isopropyl palmitate 6.0 g
Di~tilled water 52-0 g
Exam~le 7
Cream
Components
Extract of ~xample 2 25-5 g
Extract of Example 3 4.0 g
Erithromycin ba~e 2.0 g
25 Cetyl alcohol 1-5 g
Va~eline oil (cosmetic quality) 7.5 g
Ethanol (96 %) 4.5 g
Nipagine 0.2 g
Propylene glycol 5.o g
30 Di~tilled water 49.8 g
26
~xam~le 8
Face tonic
Components
Extract of :ESxample 2 27.0 g
Propylene gl~ycol 8.0 g
Tween~20 t~ na7~ -5 g
l~thanol (96 %) 64.~ g
Perfume oil 0 . 2 g
