FIL DE POLYESTER AUQUEL ON DONNE UNE TEXTURE PAR UNE OPERATION DE TORSION, MODE DE FABRICATION ET USAGE CONNEXES

FRICTION TEXTURED POLYESTER YARN, ITS PRODUCTION AND USE

Abrégé anglais

ABSTRACT
A friction textured polyester filament yarn is described with
a titre range between 400 to 600 dtex and which as an HE yarn
shows a crimp of at least 45%.
In a method for the production of the textured yarn, a smooth
yarn is textured in the above mentioned coarse titre range at
at least 350 m/min, at a filament tensile strength ratio of
F2/F1 <1 by means of a squeezing twister.
The filament yarn textured in this way can be used for
producing a set yarn with a crimp of <30%.

Revendications

X.7156.Rv3
VISCOSUISSE SA PCT 8912
Patent Claims
1. A friction textured polyester filament yarn characterized
by a titre of 400 to 600 dtex and a crimp of at least 45%.
2. A friction textured polyester filament yarn characterized
by at least 60 slubs/m after interlacing.
3. A method for producing the filament yarn according to claim
1, characterized in that a smooth yarn with a titre of 400 to
600 dtex (nominal) is passed at a rate of at least 350 m/min
and a tensile filament strength ratio of F2/F1 < 1 via a
sgueezing twister.
4. Use of the filament yarn according to claims 1 and 2 for
producing a set yarn with a crimp of < 30%.

Description

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1' X. 7156 . RJB
VISCOSUISSE SA PCT 8912
Friction textured polyester yarn, its production and use.
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The invention concerns a friction textured polyester fila~ent
yarn, a ~ethod for its production and its use.
Friction textured polyester yarns and the ~ethods for their
production up to a titre o~ 250 dtex and a usable cri~p are
known. In this connection, occasional atte~pts have even
been successful in texturing polyester yarns with a titre of
330 dtex, but subject to the drawback of an unsatisfactory
crimp in the yarn. In the production of set yarns, for
exa~ple, such yarns can only be used to a limited extent.
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For the purpose of increasing productivity, the need has been
felt for a long ti~e for texturing coarse titres >330 dtex
too. In accordance with the generally accepted teaching, it
is accepted that yarns in excess of 250 dtex can only be
textured in accordance with the friction ~ethod, subject to a
considerable loss in cri~p, since the twisting ~o~ent that can
be transferred to the yarn by conventional friction disk units
is so li~ited that the yarn twist required to obtain a proper
cri~p cannot be obtained. Accordingly, the scope of appli-
cation of all texturing ~achines is li~ited in the ~achinerY
specifications to the titre range <250 to 330 dtex.

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So far, one has relied on producin~ coarse textured yarn
titres by the plying o~ ~ine yarns. This entails a loss of
capacity according to the number of plied yarns i~ the plying
is undertaken on the texturing machine, or the need for a
separate process.

It is the object o~ the invention to provide a ~riction
textured polyester yarn with a coarse titre that can be
produced with a good crimp without a plying process.
; A ~urther object is to be seen in the use o~ such a yarn for
producing set yarns.
In accordance with the invention, this problem is solved by a
polyester yarn having a titre o~ 400 to 600 dtex with a crimp
o~ at least 45%.
It has, surprisingly, proved possible to produce coarse
textured yarns with a full capacity utilization rate of the
machines in a speed range, so that it proved possible to
obtain an increase in throughput of up to 75X as co~pared with
the plying process used hitherto.
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If the friction textured polyester yarn is interlaced after the
sha~t ~ o~ the texturing ~achine, it exhibits a slub number o~
at least 60 interlaced points /m, whereby a perfect prooessing

X.7156.RJB
into warp and ueft is ensured. ~ 3
In plying and interlacLng one or m~re fil~ts on a bexturing
Dachine, one problem is caused by the unequal tensile fil~ent
strength of the various co~ponents which leads to different
filament lengths of the individual co~ponents between the
slubs (mberlaoed pomts), as a result of which, an in~ular
surface is for~ed in the fabric.
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Apart fro~ the increase in operational capacity, a further
advantage is constituted by the eli~ination of this source of
defects while the texturing and interlacing is simple.
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.,~ The ~ethod is distinguished by the fact that it is now pos-
`:~ 15 sible to draft coarse titres at a rate of at least 350 ~/~in
with a tensile fila~ent strength ratio of F2/F, < 1.
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:; Coarse titre yarns produced on an experi~ental basis withcon~entional disk friction units showed after further pro-
cessing into a fabric that the areas for~ed showed a shrinkage
in width of up to SOX so that they were useless. The cause
thereof was established as the high tensile fila~ent strength
F2 necessary for a stable process. With squeezing friction
twisters, the tensile fila~ent strength F2 can be reduced to
such an extent that this defect no longer occurs, while the
process is stable.
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As (squeezing) friction twisters, the ~riction twisters of the
BAR~AG concern of the G~R marketed under the designation of
:~- 'RINGTEX' and o~ the MURATA concern o~ Japan marketed under
;~ the designation of 'NlPTWISTER have proved particularly
,i
suitable.
..
It is surprising that the coarse titre yarns produced with the
squeezing twisters show crimp values lying within the range of
i~ those that with normal disk friction could so far only be ob-
.. 10 tained with low titres, for example, the titre 167 dtex nor-
mally used for plying.
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i The coarse friction textured yarn is eminently suitable for
;..~.
~,, the production o~ a set yarn with a crimp percentage of less
than or equal to 30%. In this arrangement, the coarse yarn
.,, ~;
, can be immediately subjected to further processing as an
, ~ intermediate product without any ~urther process steps.''',:`'
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The invention will be described in greater detail by means o~
:
~ ~0 examples.
:` A polyester yarn with at least 8~% by weight units o~ ethylene
terephthalate served as the ~eeder yarn.
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Exa~Dle 1
Table 1 belo~ shows the setting o~ the texturing machine using
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RINGTEX units.
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~A~I,E 1: Machine settings for the "RINGTEX" (BARMAG) units
Titre dtex
Test No. 1 1 l 1 3 ¦ 4
. R/Y 1,S 1 1-2 1 1-9 ! Iss
Air press. bar 4-5 ¦ L~5 ¦ 4.j ¦ 1.5
, Disk angle (step 5) 55~ 55 ¦ 565 1 S6.5
Stretching l :17 ! 1105l 1.'5 ! 1.66
` Temp. HE C 230 ¦130 ¦130 ¦l33
Twist Contract;n set zone % -4~34 ¦ -5.~7 ¦ -L"' ¦ -S13
Temp. set oc 210 ~ 230 ¦220 ¦220
; Air press.used bar 1 1-5 ¦ 1-3 1 2 ¦ 1.4
Winding up % 1 -~iS ¦ -L1~ ¦ -L,~ ,34
Winding up speed n~/min ¦~31 ¦L31 1i39 13;9
Breathing: at rest s ~ 6 ¦ 5 ¦ 5
. in motion s ¦ 35 1.1 ¦ 5,6 ¦ 3,5
Disturbance +/-%
Upstroke, Downstroke s ¦3.512.1 ¦2.9/2.5¦ 2.3 ¦ 1.3
Crossing angle o 1 27.4 ¦ 30.2 ¦ 295 12g.5
No. of double strokes DH/min ~1191.4 ¦220 ¦161.j ¦ !60
25 The precondition ~or a perfect yarn not causing any fabric
shrinkage arter washing, is the setting of the tensile
~ilanent strength ratio o~ < l.
30 E~Le 2
Table 2 shows the ~achine settings when using NIPTWISTER-
,
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;~ TABLE 2 : Machine settings ~or the "NIPTWISTER" (MURATA)
Titre dtex ¦ 130 E60 1330 f6~¦500f96
~ 5 Test No. ¦ S S 1 7
,~ B/Y ~ 1.73 1 1.S5
~r,;' Air press. bar 1 1.l ¦ 1.0 1 1.1
Belt an81e ~ 125 1125 ! 125
Stretching l : ~ 1.0 1 1.66
~- lO Te~p. HE (! l3l 230 ¦ 230
Twist Contract;n set zone % -S.~5 -6.. 5 j 3.29
Temp. set oc 240 ¦ 230
~, Air press.used bar 1.5 ¦ - ¦ 1.3
Winding up % 5~3 ! 5~3 1 ~.31
~ 15 Winding up speed m/min ~03 ! 319 1 335
'; Breathing: at rest s 6.3 1 5.~ ¦ 7.2
, in ~otion s 8 ! 9 1 7.2 .
i, Disturbance +/-% I ¦ 0.9 ¦ 0.9
Upstroke, Downstroke s 3 ¦ 3.6 ¦ 6.1
Crossing angle 31.6 ¦ 25.S ¦ 32.
No. of double strokes /min 2~0 ¦161 ¦ 183
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I 25 The texturing results are set out in Table 3.
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T~ister
. 5 Test No. ~ 3
Titre dtex ¦ 551 ~ .5 ~369¦110¦553~358l314l
Elongation % ~ 27-5 1 16 1 25 ¦25-5~29-S¦!S-l~t~-S¦
Strength 1 32.'~ 36136.1132.3133,9135.
EK (Tex- ¦ '2.,', 26.2¦29¦29.9¦23.5¦13.1¦29.5
i turmat) ~ i ~ 1.?j 2.'1 2¦1.65¦1.6~ 1.65
Slubs /m ~ ~2 ~ 36~St 3 ~ ~S
Remission I ~.'i'6.9 63.9¦66,7 67 167.1¦67.2
I 1,~310.61~0,991!.0 1.1110.710~5
. ~ S % I 1.~",1.0 11.4211.5 jl.6611.011.0
2U
d the coarse titres show a distinctly
Although, as expecte ,
coarser crimp structure and thus lower E~ [crimp~ values would
be expected, almost the same crimp values (Textur~at) are
measured as with the dtex 167.
In accordance with the invention, it is possible for the ~irst
time to texture even titres up to 500 dtex ~ith the new
squeezing t~isters at a reduced (adjusted) speed (because of
the heat output) without any distinct decline in crimp volume
as compared with the plied yarns.
The texturing rate for these titres is still so high that it
' 35 uould have to be 50% higher ~or single yarns to be plled to
; ¦ achieve the same throughput per machine.
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