Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
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METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MODIFYING
FIBERS AND FABRIC BY FATIGUING
Background of the Invention
This invention relates to improving the hand and/or
dyeability of yarns and fabrics.
An example of a type of yarn or fabric that can pose a
severe problem with regard to both hand and dyeability are
those constructed out of liquid crystal fibers. This would
include both lyotropic and thermotropic liquid crystal
1 l fibers. A mere illustration of a type of thermotropic
liquid crystal fiber is a fully aromatic polyester and a
mere illustration of a lyotropic liquid crystal fiber would
be an aromatic polyamide (polyaramid).
Fully aromatic polyester fibers have been found to be
well-suited for cut resistant apparel as well as electrical
insulation, ropes and cable, and so forth. These fibers
have a high tensile strength, low elongation coupled with no
measurable creep up to fifty percent of the breaking load,
excellent chemical resistance and good physical property
retention over a broad range of temperatures. An example of
a fully aromatic polyester fiber is VECTRAN~ manufactured by
Hoechst Celanese Corporation and described in U.S. Patent
No. 4,479,999 which is incorporated herein by reference.
Aromatic polyamide (polyaramid) fibers have also been
found t~ be 11-suited for application in areas for
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personal protection such as in ballistic vests and in cut
resistant gloves. In areas where high strength is of
primary importance, as in ballistic protection, fabrics of
high modulus aramid fibers such as poly(para-phenylene
terephthalamide) are used. Such high modulus fibers are
hereinafter known as HM-aramid fibers. An example of a HM-
aramid fiber is KEVLAR~ manufactured by E. I. du Pont
Nemours and Co. and described in U.S. Patent No. ~,198/494,
which is incorporated herein by reference.
Therefore, it would be highly desirable to modify
fibers such as the HM-aramid fibers, fully aromatic
polyester fibers, among others, to increase dyeability with
minimal degradation to physical properties as well as
enhancing the hand.
It also would be desirable to enhance the hand of
fabrics that are naturally dyeable to a relatively high
degree, but when untreated, form very stiff and
uncomfortable garments. Examples include
cellulosic/vegetable fibers such as bast fibers, among
others.
There are numerous methods of treatment to alter fabric
and/or fiber. One method of treating textile fabric is by
subjecting successive adjacent sections of fabric to
intermittent mechanical impact with an abrasive means along
the width of the fabric. Substantial sustained contact
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between the fabric and abrasive means is avoided with the
mechanical impact being at a force and frequency sufficient
to cause a substantially uniform modification of the surface
characteristics of the fabric. In this process, an abrasive
media is used to chisel away at outer fibers to bring up
short hairs. This is disclosed in commonly assigned U.S.
Patent No. 4,512,065 issued April 23, 1985, commonly
assigned U.S. Patent No. 4,316,928 issued February 23, 1982,
and commonly assigned U.S. Patent No. 4,478,844 issued
September 4, 1984. There is no significant compression
along the longitudinal axis of the fiber present to induce
fatiguing. Furthermore the tensile strength of the fabric
is significantly reduced due to resulting fiber destruction.
A second method of treating textile fabric is to
subject the face and backside of fabric to successive
impacting by a plurality of flaps to break the fiber or
filament bond thereof and increase the yarn to yarn mobility
therein. Commonly assigned U.S. Patent No. 4,769,879,
issued September 13, 1988, discloses simultaneous impact of
the flaps on both the front and the back of the fabric
simultaneously and commonly assigned U.S. Patent No.
4~631,788, issued December 30, 1986, discloses an embodiment
where the flaps do not contact the fabric therebetween to
cause a streak thereon. Both patents disclose a method for
mechanically conditioning textile materials while not
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providing repeated stress on fiber by high velocity impact
that bends the fiber and compresses it in a direction
parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis.
Another method of treating textile fabric is that
termed "fulling" or "bulking". This is a general or routine
finishing process that utilizes the action of water
moisture, friction and pressure with the fabrics being
alternately compressed and extended. The action causes the
fibers to swell and thicken thereby shrinking the yarn and
closing the weave, which produces a soft fabric with full
hand and body. In this case, the weave is compressed and
not the fiber. This reduces the density of the fabric
partially achieved by increasing the corrugation of the warp
yarn and thereby loosening up the weave.
A fourth method of treating textile fabric is by the
use of rubber belts to create microcorrugations in the
fabric. In this process fabric contacts a thick rubber
belt that is partially wrapped around a cylinder. At this
point the outside of the belt that is in contact with the
fabric is stretched while the inside of the belt that is in
contact with the cylinder is compressed. The fabric and
belt pass through a nip whereupon the belt wraps around a
second cylinder and the curvature is reversed. This
effectively compresses the fabric lengthwise since the
fabric is trapped between the belt and the second cylinder.
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The warp yarns ar placed in compression, however, the fibers
bend and are subjected to very little compressive force.
The softening achieved by this process is by physically
rearranging fibers and not by changing the physical
characteristics of the fibers themselves. However, there
is no significant impact or fiber compression.
A fifth method of treating textile fabric is that of
jet dyeing and jet rope washing. Jet dyeing is when fabric
tied in rope form is placed in a tube-like container and
1 l dyestuff is forced through pressure jets. The dye is
continuously recirculated as the cloth moves or floats in a
tension-free condition along the tube container at rapid
speed. The movement of the fabric is controlled by the
propulsive action of the dye liquid as it is forced through
1 l the jets. Jet rope washing is a very similar process
utilizing water instead of dyestuff. The fabric is not
traveling at a very rapid velocity in order to generate any
significant force along the longitudinal axis of the fibers
within the fabric and possessing very little impact
capacity.
Other methods of treating textile fabric include "shot
peening", which involves the perpendicular striking of
fabric with a wedge or ball shaped device that is similar to
"beetling" in which fabric is revolved slowly around a huge
wooden drum and pounded with wooden hammers. With both
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methods, the yarns are flattened to make the weave appear
less open than it really is. Shot peening is disclosed in
U.S. Patent No. 4,015,317 issued on April 5, 1977 to The Dow
Chemical Company. Furthermore, the increased surface area
gives more luster, greater absorbency and smoothness. This
force, however, is perpendicular to the face of fabric as
opposed to being aligned with the longitudinal axis of the
fiber.
This invention relates to improved method and apparatus
1 l for giving material an aged appearance and more
particularly, to provide a method and apparatus for
cleaning, abrading, scraping, puncturing or otherwise
working fabrics or garments in order to modify the
appearance, smoothness, coefficient of friction, handle,
drape, and other related fabric proprieties.
In recent years, the commercial process of providing
garments, particularly denim, with an aged or distressed
appearance has been found to be highly desirable by many
consumers. In the past, denim has been commercially faded
by subjecting the denim to either a chemical bath or to
abrasive particulates or both in combination. A popular
method is to use pumice saturated with a bleaching agent.
This saturated pumice is added to the wash cycle to obtain
an uneven faded or scuffed look which almost passes for
natural wear. Numerous variations of this process have been
4 `~ '~ 3 ~ 7 '~
practiced with the use of enzymes or acids instead of bleach
as well as ceramics, rubber balls or sand instead of pumice.
An example of this is U.S. Patent No. 4,765,100 which
discloses pre-formed sand and resin bonded abrasive elements
mixed with denim jeans and tumbled within an elongate drum.
Another variation is to pretreat the fabric by sand or shot
blasting prior to treatment by chemicals or abrasives. This
treatment is used to accelerate the aging and distressing of
the fabric.
A major problem with the current means of altering
fabric texture and appearance is that the large stones used
in the process, along with the very abrasive particulate
generated during processing, are very deleterious to
equipment, and in addition, require manual removal from the
processed garments due to the tendency of the smaller
particles to accumulate in pockets and interior surfaces.
Another problem is that the washing process itself is
vexy time consuming and increases the cost of manufacturing
the garment to a significant degree.
2 l A further problem is that this abrasive washing process
is very inexact. Due to the variables involved, the final
appearance of the garment is not consistent. Moreover, the
combination of chemical and abrasive treatment degrades the
fabric strength and reduces the garment life.
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The present invention treats fiber and/or fabric in a
manner not disclosed in the known prior art with associated
unique results.
Summary of the Invention
A method and apparatus is provided for modifying fiber
or fabric by fatiguing that creates at least two of the
following characteristics including:
1. axially aligned cracks;
2. physical modification of the fiber in the form of either
kink bands, enlarged nodes, or enlarged segregated
fibril tangles; and
3. increased amount of fibrils present on fiber surface in
contrast to unfatigued state.
Fatiguing is defined as repeated stress on fiber by high
velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses it in a
direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis. High
velocity is defined as requiring the fiber to move at a rate
of 50 feet per second or higher.
An apparatus and method for modifying the texture and
appearance of material which comprises a closed hollow
cylinder having an interior surface with curved walls and a
means for material entry and exit to said hollow cylinder
and at least one gas jet directed away from the interior of
the curved wall of said cylinder and an air exhaust means
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for said hollow cylinder. The one or more gas jets create a
vortex that rapidly and repeatedly cycles the material at
low tension past the gas jets. The rapid vibrations
generated in the material by the jet(s) serve to break apart
fiber to fiber bonds caused by finish and loosen up the
structure of the yarns and that of the material.
An advantage of this invention is that the hand of the
fabric is noticeably improved, especially, but not limited
to fabrics formed of liquid crystal fibers and bast fibers.
1 l Furthermore, bending, drape, bulk and surface softness are
also noticeably improved.
A second advantage of this invention is that the fiber
may be treated in either yarn or fabric form.
A third advantage of this invention, is that there is a
1 l relatively minor degradation in strength after treatment.
A fourth advantage of this invention is that when
treated, ramie and flax fabrics have a higher strength and
softer hand than cotton fabrics of equal weight.
A fifth advantage of this invention that after
treatment, HM-aramid fibers are readily dyeable by basic or
disperse dyes for medium and dark shades and sulfur dyes for
light shades due to increased porosity that allows the
penetration of dyestuffs into the HM-aramid fiber or fabric
without the need for swelling agents or carriers.
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A sixth advantage of this invention is that aromatic
polyester can be transformed from a very stiff and
uncomfortable fabric to a very soft, pliable and supple
fabric with an increase in dyeability at the fiber's nodes.
A seventh advantage of this invention is that it treats
fabric in both the warp and fill direction as opposed to
traditional treatment processes that affect fabric only in
the warp direction.
An eighth advantage of this invention is that the
desired aged appearance is obtained as well as a very soft
texture that is superior to that which can be obtained by
stone washing.
A ninth advantage of this invention is that no
abrasives need to be removed from either the materials or
equipment after processing, although abrasives can be used
as an option.
Yet a tenth advantage of this invention is the minimal
time required when contrasted to abrasion or washing
processes.
An eleventh advantage of this invention is that the
final result is very exact depending on the control of
variables such as time and air pressure.
A twelfth advantage of this invention is that the
material is not degraded due to combination of chemicals and
abrasives.
2 l~
These and other advantages will be in part apparent and
in part pointed out below.
Brief Description of the Drawings
The above as well as other objects of the invention
will become more apparent from the following detailed
description of the preferred embodiments of the invention,
when taken together with the accompanying drawings, in
which:
FIG. 1 is a schematicized side view of the apparatus
for fatiguing fabric of the instant invention wherein a rope
of fabric is treated by a plurality of impact rolls;
FIG. 2 is a side view of the apparatus for fatiguing
fabric of the instant invention;
FIG. 3 is a cross-sectional view of the apparatus for
fatiguing fabric taken along line 3-3 of FIG. 2:
FIG. 4 is a top plan view of the oscillating assembly
utilized in the apparatus for fatiguing fabric of the
present invention;
FIG. 5 is a cross-sectional view of the oscillating
assembly taken along line 5-5 of FIG. 4;
FIG. 6 is a front view of an impact roll utilized in
the apparatus for fatiguing fabric of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a side view of an impact roll utilized in the
apparatus for fatiguing fabric of the present invention;
Il 11
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FIG. 8 is a top view of an alternative embodiment
disclosing an apparatus utili~ed to fatigue yarn;
FIG. 9 is a cross-sectional view of the yarn fatiguing
apparatus taken along line 9-9 of FIG. 8:
FIG. 10 is a cross-sectional view of the yarn fatiguing
apparatus taken along line 10-10 of FIG. 9;
FIG. 11 is a perspective view of the jet cylinder of
the present invention having converging/diverging slots;
FIG. 12 is a side view of a fiber that has been
fatigued revealing an increased number of fibrils resulting
from shear (abrasion) of the present invention;
FIG. 13 is a side view of a homogenous fiber that has
been fatigued revealing kink bands resulting from bending
and axial compression of the present invention;
FIG. 14 is a side view of a fiber having nodes or
segregated fibular tangles that are actuated and expanded
due to fatiguing by bending and axial compression of the
present invention;
FIG. 15 is a side view of a fiber that has been
fatigued revealing cracks and separation resulting from the
fatiguing process of the present invention:
FIG. 16 is a graphical presentation of bending, surface
compression, shearing and tensile properties of treated
KEVLAR~ fabric in contrast to standard polyester fabric by
means of the Kawabata Evaluation System;
2 ~ rJ ,~)
FIG. 17 is a graphical presentation of bending, surface
compression, shearing and tensile properties of treated
linen fabric and a treated fabric constructed of 70% ramie
and 30% cotton by means of the Kawabata Evaluation System;
FIG. 18 is a photomicrograph of KEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 30X magnification prior to being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 19 is a photomicrograph of XEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 30X magnification after being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 20 is a photomicrograph of XEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at lOOX magnification prior to being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 21 is a photomicrograph of KEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at lOOX magnification after being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 22 is a photomicrograph of XEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 250X magnification prior to being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 23 is a photomicrograph of KEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 250X magnification after being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 24 is a photomicrograph of XEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 2000X magnification prior to being treated by
fatiguing;
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FIG. 25 is a photomicrograph of KEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 2500X magnification after being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 26 is a photomicrograph of KEVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 2000X magnification prior to being treated by
fatiguing;
FIG. 27 is a photomicrograph of REVLAR~ (para-
polyaramid) at 3500X magnification after being treated by
fatiguing;
1 1 FIG. 28 is a photomicrograph of VECTRAN~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at lOOX magnification prior to being
treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 29 is a photomicrograph of VECTRAN~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at lOOX magnification after being
treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 30 is a photomicrograph of VECTRAN~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at 350X magnification prior to being
treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 31 is a photomicrograph of VECTRAN~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at 350X magnification after being
treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 32 is a photomicrograph of VECTRAN~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at lOOOX magnification prior to being
treated by fatiguing;
,,~
FIG. 33 is a photomicrograph of VECTRAN~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at lOOOX magnification after being
treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 34 is a photomicrograph of VECTRAN~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at.2000X magnification prior to being
treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 35 is a photomicrograph of VECTR~N~ (fully
aromatic polyester) at 2000X magnification after being
treated by fatiguing;
lOFIG. 36 is a photomicrograph of ramie at 350X
magnifiGation prior to being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 37 is a photomicrograph of ramie at 350X
magnification after being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 38 is a photomicrograph of ramie at lOOOX
magnification prior to being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 39 is a photomicrograph of ramie at lOOOX
magnification after being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 40 is a photomicrograph of ramie at lOOOX
magnification prior to being treated by fatiguing;
20FIG. 41 is a photomicrograph of ramie at lOOOX
magnification after being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 42 is a photomicrograph of linen at 350X
magnification prior to being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 43 is a photomicrograph of linen at 350X
magnification after being treated by fatiguing;
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FIG. 44 is a photomicrograph of linen at 350X
magnification prior to being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 45 is a photomicrograph of linen at 350X
magnification after being treated by fatiguing;
5FIG. 46 is a photomicrograph of linen at 2000X
magnification prior to being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 47 is a photomicrograph of linen at 2000X
magnification after being treated by fatiguing;
FIG. 48 is a structural model of the internal
1 l organization of a liquid crystal polymer fiber;
FIG. 49 is a side elevational view of the single vortex
assembly and air supply means:
FIG. 50 is a cross-sectional view of a single vortex
assembly taken along line 50-50 of FIG. 1 and constructed in
accordance with the present invention;
FIG. 51 is a fragmentary front elevational view of a
single vortex assembly of FIG. 49 disclosing the cover,
cover support plate and a gas jet;
FIG. 52 is a cross-sectional view of one of the gas
jets shown in FIG. 49 employed in practicing the present
invention; and
FIG. 53 is a cross-sectional view of an alternative
embodiment of a dual vortex assembly.
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Corresponding reference characters indicate
corresponding parts throughout the several views of the
drawings.
Detailed Description of the Preferred Embodiment
Fatiguing is defined as repeated stress on fiber by
high velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses it
in a direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis.
High velocity is defined as requiring the fiber to move at a
relative velocity of 50 feet per second or higher.
Referring now to FIG. 1, an apparatus for fatiguing fabric
is generally indicated by numeral 1. Fabric in rope form 2
is threaded through the apparatus 1 by initially passing
through combination guide and idler rolls 10 and 12 mounted
on shafts 85 and 86 respectively. The fabric in rope form 2
then passes through an oscillator that is generally
indicated by numeral 14 and then through a plurality of
guide sleeves formed in plates 102, 105, 108, 111 and 114.
There are a series of pads 101, 104, 107, 110 and 113, as
shown in FIG. 1, that are ad~acent to plates 102, 105, 108,
111 and 114 respectively. Between each pair of guide
sleeves, the fabric in rope form 2 passes through a pair of
impact rolls, starting with rolls 18 and 19, then rolls 21
and 22, then rolls 24 and 25, and finally rolls 27 and 28.
Impact roll 18 is mounted on shaft 87, impact roll 19 is
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mounted on shaft 88, impact roll 21 is mounted on shaft 89,
impact roll 22 is mounted on shaft 90, impact roll 24 is
mounted on shaft 91, impact roll 2S is mounted on shaft 92,
impact roll 27 is mounted on shaft 93, and impact roll 28 is
mounted on shaft 94. As shown in FIG. 1, there are four
levels of rolls with each pair of rolls being on the same
horizontal plane and vertically aligned with all the other
pairs of rolls. The fabric in rope form 2 is first treated
by impact rolls 18 and 19, which are rotating in a clockwise
direction. Treatment is effected by the compressive forces
generated in the fibers comprising the fabric in rope form 2
by the high velocity impact of trapezoidal bars 32 that
extend across the lateral width of the impact rolls. This
high velocity impact, as previously defined, requires the
1 l fibers to move at a relative rate of 50 feet per second or
higher. The fibers are bent and compressed in a direction
parallel to the longitudinal axis of each fiber. This is
also shown in FIGS. 6 and 7 with a typical impact roll
generally denoted as A. The shaft is generally denoted as B
2 l with an extension C for attaching a pulley thereto. There
are two trapezoidal bars 32 on each impact roll A that are
located one hundred and eighty degrees apart from each
other. The trapezoidal bars are secured to the impact roll
A by a series of socket head cap screws 199. Each impact
roll is timed so that it rotates ninety degrees out of phase
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with its paired twin on the same horizontal plane. This
results in little or no tension being placed on the fabric
in rope form 2. The rotational direction of each subsequent
pair of impact rolls is reversed to further insure
uniformity of treatment. The fabric in rope form exits the
machine by means of guide and idler wheels 34 and 36 that
are each mounted on shafts 95 and 96 respectively. A
conventional means is used to transport and tension the
fabric in rope form 2, which could be a traction roll and
1 l dancer combination and variations thereof.
Referring now to FIGS. 2 and 3, which disclose a right
side view and front view, respectively of the apparatus 1,
comprising of three rectangular frames 80, 81 and 83 joined
together. The center rectangular frame 83 has seven
horizontal dual members on seven different levels with dual
vertical support members 38 and 40. From top to bottom
these levels are numerically indicated as 42, 43, 44, 45,
46, 47, and 48 respectively. Combination guide and idler
roll 10 is rotatively connected to a pair of bearings 51 on
each side. The pair of bearings 51 are attached to a pad 52
that is mounted at the top of vertical side member 40.
Combination guide and idler roll 12 is attached to bearings
54 that are attached to dual upper pads 55 that are attached
to the first horizontal dual members 42 at the top of frame
83.
2 ~
The oscillator 14 is mounted on top of the second
horizontal dual members 43. Mounted to the second
horizontal dual members 43 are lower dual pads 101 that are
connected to a lower plate 102 as shown in FIG. 3.
The third horizontal level has impact roll 18
rotatively attached to dual bearings 56 and impact roll l9
is rotatively attached to dual bearings 57. Dual bearings
56 and 57 are attached to upper dual pads 58 that are
mounted on the top of the third horizontal dual members 44.
On the bottom of the third horizontal dual members are lower
dual pads 104 with a lower plate 105 connected thereto by
means of conventional hardware or equivalent through to the
third horizontal dual members 44.
The identical arrangement is duplicated on the fourth
horizontal level with dual bearings 60 for impact roll 21,
dual bearings 61 for impact roll 22 with dual bearings 60,
61 attached to upper dual pads 62 mounted to the top of the
fcurth horizontal dual members 45. On the bottom of the
fourth horizontal dual members 45 are lower dual pads 107
with a lower plate 108 connected thereto by means of
conventional hardware or equivalent through to the fourth
horizontal dual members 45.
The same arrangement is duplicated on the fifth
horizontal level with dual bearings 64 for impact roll 24,
dual bearings 65 for impact roll 25 with dual bearings 64,
~ `Ji3~` 7 ~
65 attached to upper dual pads 66 mounted to the top of the
fifth horizontal dual members 46. On the bottom of the
fifth horizontal dual members 46 are lower dual pads 110
with a lower plate 111 connected thereto by means of
conventional hardware or equivalent through to the fifth
horizontal dual members 46.
Furthermore, the sixth horizontal level has the same
arrangement, with dual bearings 68 for impact roll 27, dual
bearings 69 for impact roll 28 with dual bearings 68, 69
attached to upper dual pads 70 mounted to the top of the
sixth horizontal dual members 47. on the bottom of the
sixth horizontal dual members 47 are lower dual pads 113
with a lower plate 114 connected thereto by means of
conventional hardware or equivalent through to the sixth
horizontal dual members 47.
Guide and idler roll 34 is rotatively connected to dual
bearings 72, which are mounted on upper dual pads 73 that
are attached to the seventh horizontal dual members 48.
The fabric in rope form 2 then exits the apparatus 1 by
means of another guide and idler roll 36 that is rotatively
connected to dual bearings 75, which are mounted on plate 76
that is attached to the bottom of vertical side member 38.
The three rectangular frames 80, 81, and 83 are
connected to a lower horizontal support frame 117 with
support pads 116 interposed therebetween.. The lower
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horizontal support frame 117 is supported by four vibration
isolation pads 118.
Rectangular frame 80, shown to the right of rectangular
frame 83 in FIG. 3, has a top member 121 that is connected
to rectangular frame 83 by means of an angle bracket 122 and
bolts, or other equivalent attachment means such as welding,
adhesives, and so forth as is typical of all bolt
attachments throughout this application. The middle member
125 of rectangular frame 80, which is on the same horizontal
plane as the fifth horizontal dual members 46 of rectangular
frame 83, supports a motor 127 by means of a motor support
frame 128. The motor 127 has a pulley 130 connected to it
that drives a belt 131 that rotates a pulley 132 connected
to impact roll 22 by means of shaft 90 through bearing 61
and pulley 133 connected to impact roll 21 by means of shaft
89 through bearing 60. The impact rolls 18, 19, 21, 22, 24,
25, 27, 28 throughout this application are preferable twelve
inches in diameter with the preferred impact roll speed of
5,000 revolutions per minute, although these values can vary
with the consideration that the fabric in rope form 2 must
go into compression during impact with the bars 32, rather
than simple buckling or bending. The motors 127, 137, 153
and 162 can be electric, pneumatic, combustion and so forth.
About 25 horsepower per pair of impact rolls is required for
most fabrics in order to move the fabric at a rate of 50
2 & ~ 3 ~ ~ ~
feet per second or higher~ By using apparatus 1,
compression can be imparted to the filling as well as the
warp yarns along the longitudinal axis of the respective
fibers. The lower member 135 of rectangular frame 80, which
is on the same horizontal plane as the seventh horizontal
dual members 48 of rectangular frame 83, supports a motor
137 by means of a motor support frame 138. The motor 137
has a pulley 140 connected to it that drives a belt 141 that
rotates a pulley 142 connected to impact roll 28 by means of
shaft 94 through bearing 69 and pulley 143 connected to
impact roll 27 by means of shaft 93 through bearing 68.
Rectangular frame 81, is on the opposite side of
rectangular frame 83 from rectangular frame 80 as shown in
FIG. 3, has a top member 145 that is connected to
rectangular frame 83 by means of an angle bracket 146 and
bolts, or other equivalent attachment means. The first
middle member 148 of rectangular frame 81, which is on the
same horizontal plane as the fourth horizontal dual members
45 of rectangular frame 83, supports a motor 153 by means of
a motor support frame 154. The motor 153 has a pulley 156
connected to it that drives a belt 157 that rotates a pulley
158 connected to impact roll 19 by means of shaft 88 throu~h
bearing 57 and pulley 159 (not shown) that is similar to
pulley 158 connected to impact roll 18 by means of shaft 87
through bearing 56. The second middle member 150 of
~3~
rectangular frame 81, which is on the same horizontal plane
as the sixth horizontal dual members 47 of rectangular frame
83, supports a motor 162 by means of a motor support frame
163. The motor 162 has a pulley 165 connected to it that
drives a belt 166 that rotates a pulley 167 connected to
impact roll 25 by means of shaft 92 through bearing 65 and
pulley 168 (not shown) that is similar t~ pulley 167
connected to impact roll 24 by means of shaft 91 through
bearing 64. There is a lower member 151 of rectangular
frame 81, which is on the same horizontal plane as the
seventh horizontal dual members 48 of rectangular frame 81,
which is used for structural support.
Referring now to FIGS. 4 and 5, the fabric oscillator
is generally indicated by numeral 14. The fabric in rope
form 2 is nipped between a pair of rubber covered nip rolls
70 and 171, rotatably mounted on central shafts 200 and
201, which have a hole in each opposing end that slide over
dual opposing shafts 172 and 308. The dual opposing shafts
172 and 308 have hexagonal nuts 174 on each end of each
shaft 172 and 308 with dual springs 173 that put pressure
against the opposing ends of the central shafts 200 and 201
with pads 176 therebetween. The pads 176 are rigidly fixed
to the rotatably mounted oscillating disk 206, as also shown
in FIG. 3, that is rotated through a fixed angle by a
conventional actuator 177 that is rotatably attached by
means of bearing and shaft arrangement 178. The oscillating
disk 206 is rotatable mounted to a stationary platform 180
by means of large diameter bearings 182. The opposite end
of the actuator 177 is pivotally connected to the stationary
platform 180 by means of bearing and shaft combination 185.
The stationary platform 180 is mounted on upper dual pads
187 that are attached to the second level horizontal dual
members 43.
Fabric may be fatigue treated by means of impact with
1 l bars mounted to the exterior of a cylinder rotated at high
speeds of over 50 feet per second. The fabric is treated in
the form of rope to reduce the required width of the
treatment rolls due to the high amount of rotational kinetic
energy stored in these rolls and because of the fact that in
rope form, the fabric can be treated in both the warp and
fill direction simultaneously. Each individual fiber is
bent and compressed in a direction parallel to the fiber's
longitudinal axis
Referring now to FIGS. 6 and 7, which discloses a front
and side view of a typical impact roll denoted as A with a
shaft B with an extension C for attaching a pulley thereon.
There are dual flange members 197, which serve the function
of affixing the impact roll A to the shaft B. Furthermore,
there are circular cover plates 193 mounted on each side of
the impact roll A.
2~ 7~
Another means to fatigue fabric is by application of
one or more gas jets directed away from the interior curved
surface of a cylinder, generating a vortex that rapidly and
repeatedly cycles the substrate at low tension past the gas
jets. The rapid vibrations generated in the substrate by
the jets serve to break apart fiber to fiber bonds caused by
finish and loosen up the structure of the yarns and that of
the substrate. Impact of the fabric with the walls of the
cylinder repeatedly flexes and axially compresses the
1 l fibers, inducing fatigue. This creates a dasired aged
appearance as well as a very soft texture. This apparatus
and method is disclosed in U.S. Patent Application No.
07/596,271, filed October 12, 1990, which is incorporated
herein by reference and entitled "METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR
MODIFICATION OF TEXTURE AND APPEARANCE OF MATERIA~S" and
also having the same sole inventor.
Referring now to FIGS. 8, 9, 10 and 11, an apparatus to
fatigue yarn is generally indicated by numeral 201. Yarn
202 is threaded through the apparatus 201 into the top
opening 241 along the centerline 204 and is rapidly cycled
against the walls of a jet cylinder 207 located between a
lower spacer cylinder 208 and an upper spacer cylinder 209.
This structure is mounted between a lower tapered end cap
210 and an upper tapered end cap 211. The yarn is then
removed through a bottom opening 242. The apparatus 201 is
substantially a cylindrical structure with tapered ends.
The main mechanisms for fatiguing are dual lower
converging/diverging slots 217 and 218 and dual upper
converging/diverging slots 215 and 216. In FIG. 9, upper
converging/diverging slot 215 and lower converging
/diverging slot 217 are shown. Converging/diverging slot
216 is located one hundred and eighty degrees from
converging/diverging slot 215 on the same horizontal plane
1 l and converging/diverging slot 218 is located one hundred and
eighty degrees from converging/diverging slot 217 on the
same horizontal plane, as shown in FIG. 10. Slots 215, 216,
217 and 218 direct air tangentially to the inside of the
apparatus 201. The rapidly rotating air follows helical
1 l path 290 and helical path 291, as shown in FIG. 10. The
tapered bore of end caps 210 and 211 allow air to exhaust
only after it has lost most of its initial circumferential
velocity. Air is delivered to said converging/diverging
slots 215, 216, 217, and 218 by pneumatic tubes 223 and 224
that attach to "L" shaped threaded fittings 226 and 227 that
attach to the main cylindrical body 229 of the apparatus
201. ~he main cylindrical body 229 is formed around the jet
cylinder 207, lower spacer cylinder 208, and upper spacer
cylinder 209 and functions as an outer shell. "L"-shaped
threaded fitting 226 is attached to main cylindrical body
~ 37~
229 and delivers air to convergingjdiverging slots 217 and
218, as shown in FIG. 10. There is a connecting chamber 247
in the main cylindrical body 229 to provide air from the
"L"- shaped threaded fitting 226 to a circular conduit 232
formed by an indentation in the outer edges of the bottom of
jet cylinder 207 and a matching indentation in the outer
edges of the top of lower spacer cylinder 208. The
converging/diverging slots 217 and 218 are formed in the
indented projecting circular extension 250, as shown in
FIGS. 10 and 11.
Furthermore, the same structure is duplicated with
regard to "L"-shaped threaded fitting 227 that is attached
to main cylindrical body 229 and delivers air to converging/
diverging slots 215 and 216, as shown in FIG. 9. There is a
connecting chamber 303 in the main cylindrical body 229 to
provide air from the "L"-shaped threaded fitting 227 to a
circular conduit 231 formed by an indentation in the outer
edges of the top of jet cylinder 207 and a matching
indentation in the outer edges of the bottom of upper spacer
cylinder 209. The converging/diverging slots 215 and 216
are formed in the indented projecting circular extension
238, as shown in FIG 11.
The upper tapered end cap is attached to the top of the
main cylindrical body 229 by four hexagonal bolts 234 or
other mechanical means and the lower tapered end cap 210 is
~ i3 ~ 3 ~ i ~
attached by four hexagonal bolts 236 to the bottom of the
main cylindrical body 229 in a similar manner.
After fatigue treatment, there are three possible
characteristics that the fiber and/or fabric will exhibit.
The first characteristic is the presence of fibrils due to
shear and~or abrasion present in the fatiguing process.
Fibrils are defined as one of the minute fibrous elements
making up a fiber. Fibrous is defined as containing,
consisting of, or like fibers. This is shown in FIG. 12.
The second characteristic is the presence of physical change
created by the bending and compression of the fiber along
the fiber's longitudinal axis. For a relatively homogenous
fiber like KEVLAR~, kink bands generated by bending or
compression occur randomly along the fiber. For fibers
which are axially nonuniform, such as those fibers which
exhibit nodes, the compressive and bending stresses will not
be random, but rather will correspond to the weakest areas
of the fiber. For bast fibers, the weakest points are the
so called growth nodes, which are accentuated and expanded
by the treatment. For VECTRAN~, the weakest points are
nodes which are believed to be areas of segregated fibular
tangles. These areas are similarly expanded and are
typified by FIG. 14. The third characteristic is cracks in
the fiber due to fatigue, as shown in FIG. 15. These cracXs
are defined as axial separations in the fiber, and are
believed to be the cause of the node enlargement dascribed
above. This third characteristic is the most important in
enhancing both hand and dyeability.
A type of yarn or fabric in which the hand and
dyeability are improved by repeated stress on fiber by high
velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses it in a
direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis is a
liquid crystal fiber. This includes both lyotropic and
thermotropic liquid crystal fibers. One type of
thermotropic liquid crystal fiber, among others, is a fully
aromatic polyester and one type of a lyotropic liquid
crystal fiber, among others, would be an aromatic polyamide
(polyaramid).
A mere illustrative example of an aromatic polyamide
would be high modulus aramid fibers such as poly(para-
phenylene terephthalamide) such as KEVLAR0 manufactured by
E. I. du Pont Nemours and Co.
FIG. 18 is a photomicrograph at 30X magnification of
KEVLAR0 fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 19 is a
photomicrograph at 30x magnification of KEVLAR~ fibers after
fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation in FIG.
l9~presents a marked contrast to FIG. 18.
FIG. 20 is a photomicrograph at 100X magnification of
KEVLAR0 fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 21 is a
5 photomicroyraph at 100x magnification of KEVLAR0 fibers
~33 ~,
after fatigue treatment. This again, demonstrates the
contrasting degree of fibrillation.
FIG. 22 is a photomicrograph at 250X magnification of
KEVhAR~ fibers prior to fatigue treatment with the ends
thereof prominently displayed. FIG. 23 is a photomicrograph
at 250x magnification of KEVLAR~ fibers after fatigue
treatment focusing again on the ends of the fibers. The
degree of fibrillation is again contrasted.
FIGS. 24 and 26 are photomicrographs at 2000X
magnification of KEVLAR~ fibers prior to fatigue treatment.
FIGS. 25 and 27 are photomicrographs at 2500x and 3500x,
respectively, magnification of KEVLAR~ fibers after fatigue
treatment.
FIGS. 25 and 27 reveal all three characteristics
insluding fibrils, kink bands and cracks.
Few fibers are broken during treatment, therefore there
is only a small decrease in tensile strength of the fabric.
Typically, tensile strength is reduced by ten percent (10%)
or less. The greater mobility and flexibility of the fibers
after treatment contribute not only to a soft hand, but also
to an improvement in cut resistance.
Similar treatment of fabrics composed of other polymers
such as standard polyester or nylon shows neither the same
magnitude of improvement of hand nor the concomitant
improvement in dyeability nor the microscopic evidence of
~ 3 7 i
cracks, kink bands or fibrillation. In FIG. 16, results
from twelve tests related to hand are reported for a
filament KEVL~R~ fabric and for a standard filament
polyester fabric. These twelve tests are part of the
Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KESF) and are
conveniently divided into five test groups: bending,
surface, compression, shearing and tensile. The nature of
the tests and units used can be briefly descri~ed as
follows:
The bending properties are "B" - the bending stiffness
in gf-cm2/cm and "2HB" - the bending hysteresis at @ 0.5 cm
in gf-cm/cm. Hysteresis is a measure of the energy lost
during deformation, representing a lack of recovery.
The surface properties are "MIU"- the coefficient of
friction, "MMD" - the mean deviation of the coefficient of
friction, and "SMD" - the mean deviation in surface
roughness in micrometers.
The compression properties are "W" - the weight in
my/cm2, "T" - the thickness in millimeters at a compressive
pressure of 0.5 gf/cm2, "RC" - the compressional resilience
in percent, "WC" - the energy in gf-cm/cm2 to compress the
sample to a surface pressure of 50 gf/cm2, and "LC" -
compressional linearity.
The shear properties are "G" - shear stiffness in
gf/cm-degree and "2HG" - shearing hysteresis at 0.5 gf/cm.
~ ~ ~ 3 ~
The tensile properties are "EMT" - the extensibility in
percent at the 500 gf/cm level, "LT" - the tensile
linearity, "WT" - the tensile energy in gf-cm/cm, and "RT" -
the tensile resilience in percent.
For both the KEVLAR~ and standard polyester samples,
data is shown in dimensionless form by dividing the results
for the treated sample by that for the untreated control.
The two most important tests that apply to what is generally
considered to be the "drape" of a fabric are the bending
stiffness "B" and the shear stiffness "G". In the case of
the KEVLAR~ sample, the bending stiffness has been reduced
by the treatment by a factor of nearly ten and the shear
stiffness has been reduced by a factor of about 2.5.
A mere illustrative example of a fully aromatic
polyester fiber is VECTRAN~ manufactured by Hoechst Celanese
Corporation.
FIG. 28 is a photomicrograph at lOOX magnification of
VECTRAN~ fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 29 is a
photomicrograph at lOOx magnification of VECTRAN~ fibers
2 l after fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation
and expansion occurring at the nodes in FIG. 29 presents a
marked contrast to FIG. 28.
FIG. 30 is a photomicrograph at 350X magnification of
VECTRAN~ fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 31 is a
photomicrograph at 350x magnification of VECTRAN~ fibers
2~337~
after fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation
and expansion occurring at the nodes in FIG. 31 again
presents a marked contrast to FIG. 30.
FIG. 32 is a photomicrograph at loOOX magnification of
~-ECTRAN~ fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 33 is a
photomicrograph at lOOOx magnification of VECTRAN~ fibers
after fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation
and expansion as well as cracking occurring at the nodes in
FIG. 33 again presents a marked contrast to FIG. 32, only
these photomicrographs present much sharper detail than the
previous four photomicrographs.
FIG. 34 is a photomicrograph at 2000X magnification of
VECTRAN~ fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 35 is a
photomicrograph at 2000x magnification of VECTRAN~ fibers
after fatigue treatment. The high degree of fibrillation
and expansion as well as cracking occurring at the nodes in
FIG. 35 again presents a marked contrast to FIG. 34, only
these photomicrographs present much sharper detail than any
of the previous VECTRAN~ photomicrographs.
Again, few fibers are broken during treatment,
therefore there is only a small decrease in tensile strength
of the fabric. Typically, tensile strength is reduced by
ten percent ~10%) or less. The greater mobility and
flexibility of the fibers after treatment contribute not
only to a soft hand, but also to an improvement in cut
resistance. Furthermore, the nodal areas are rendered
dyeable by the treatment.
A type of fabric whose hand is noticeable improved by
the fatiguing process, defined as repeated stress on fiber
by high velocity impact that bends the fiber and compresses
it in a direction parallel to the fiber's longitudinal axis,
is one composed of natural fibers. Natural fibers woven
into fabric, are already dyeable to a significant degree so
that the fatiguing process has relatively little effect on
this aspect. The most widely used natural fibers are the
vegetable fibers, which may be classified into four groups,
all of which are predominately cellulosic. These groups
are: seed fibers such as cotton and kapok, fruit fibers such
as coir, leaf fibers such as abaca, alfa, sisal, henequen
and maguey, and bast fibers such as linen (flax), ramie,
hemp, jute, kenaf, and sunn.
Of the bast fibers, ramie and linen are of particular
interest because both are hard wearing, very strong fibers.
Linen, for example, is approximately twice as strong as
cotton, while ramie is about twice as strong as linen.
Furthermore, ramie becomes considerably stronger when wet.
Chemically, ramie and linen are virtually identical to
cotton and therefore take up dye and finishes in the same
manner as cotton. The major limitation of these fibers
heretofore has been the stiffness of the resultant fabrics
~ r!~
as compared to similar fabrics manufactured of cotton.
Ramie and linen fibers used in fabrics typically have
diameters of two to five times that of cotton fibers. Since
the stiffness of a fiber varies as the fourth power of its
diameter, it is easily seen that fabrics constructed of
ramie and linen will have limited utility when soft hand is
required. In addition, the large diameter of ramie and
linen fabrics can result in an inherent sensitivity to
bending. It is said that ramie fabric can break if folded
repeatedly along the same line.
Bast fibers with the exception of ramie, are composed
of multiple fiber cells. A fiber of linen, for example, is
composed of ten to fourteen individual ultimate fibers.
These ultimate fibers generally have diameters smaller than
lS that of cotton. Ramie fibers generally appear to be
unicellar, however, the very linear nature of these fibers
allows fatigue treatment to create axially aligned cracks
and fibrillation in a manner analogous to that produced in
para-aramids. Linen, because of its multicellular
structure, is even more susceptible to treatment. The other
bast fibers, while also susceptible to treatment, have
ultimate fiber lengths that are too short to remain in the
yarn after separation.
Linen and ramie fabrics, after fatigue treatment,
contain a substantial portion of fibers of a diameter
2~3~
smaller than that of cotton and can exhibit a soft hand
considerably softer than that of a cotton fabric of equal
weight.
FIGS. 36 and 37 are photomicrographs at 350X
magnification of ramie fibers before and after fatigue
treatment, respectively. The ultimate fibrils are either
distinct or loosely bonded to the original structure in FIG.
37, which presents a marked contrast to the monolithic
structure of the relatively large diameter fibers in FIG.
1~ 36.
FIG. 38 is a photom.crograph at lOOOX magnification of
ramie fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 39 is a
photomicrograph at lOOOx magnification of ramie fibers after
fatigue treatment. FIGS. 39 reveals two of the three
characteristics typical of the treatment including fibrils
and numerous cracks.
FIG. 40 is a photomicrograph at lOOOX magnification of
ramie fibers prior to fatigue treatment. FIG. 41 is a
photomicrograph at lOOOx magnification of ramie fibers after
fatigue treatment. FIGS. 41 reveals fibrils and numerous
cracks in much the same way as FIG. 39.
FIGS. 42 and 43 are photomicrographs at 350X
magnification of linen fibers before and after fatigue
treatment, respectively. In FIG 43, the fibers exhibit a
profuse number of attached fibrils that appear to be of a
2 (~ 7 ~
cellular or subcellular size. As is typical in this
treatment, no broken fiber ends are apparent.
FIGS. 44 and 45 are photomicrographs at 350X
magnification of linen fibers before and after fatigue
treatment, respectively. The ultimate fibrils are either
distinct or loosely bonded to the original structure in FIG.
45, which presents a marked contrast to the monolithic
structure of the relatively large diameter fibers in FIG.
44.
FIG. 46 is a photomicrograph at 2000X magnification of
linen fibers prior to fatigue treatment with the ends
thereof prominently displayed. FIG. 47 is a photomicrograph
at 2000x magnification of linen fibers after fatigue
treatment focusing again on the ends of the fibers. The
degree of separation and cracking again provides for a
marked contrast.
In FIG. 17, results from twelve tests related to hand
are reported for both a linen fabric and for a seventy (70)
percent ramie and thirty (30) percent cotton fabric. These
twelve tests are part of the Kawabata Evaluation System for
Fabrics (KESF) and are conveniently divided into five test
groups: bending, surface, compression, shearing and tensile.
The nature of the tests and units used are described on
Pages 28 and 29, but for completeness of this disclosure are
reiterated as follows:
2~3~7~
The bending properties are "B" - the bending stiffness
in gf-cm2/cm and "2HB" - the bending hysteresis at @ ~.5 cm
in gf-cm/cm. Hysteresis is a measure of the energy lost
during deformation, representing a lack of recovery.
The surface properties are "MIU"- the ccefficient of
friction, "MMD" - the mean deviation of the coefficient of
friction, and "SMD" - the mean deviation in surface
roughness in micrometers.
The compression properties are "W" - the weight in
1 l mg/cmZ, "T" - the thickness in millimeters at a compressive
pressure of 0.5 gf/cm2, "RC" - the compressional resilience
in percent, "WC" - the energy in gf-cm/cm2 to compress the
sample to a surface pressure of 50 gf/cm2, and "LC" -
compressional linearity.
The shear properties are "G" - shear stiffness in
gf/cm-degree and "2HG" - shearing hysteresis at 0.5 gf/cm.
The tensile properties are "EMT" - the extensibility in
percent at the 500 gf/cm level, "LT" - the tensile
linearity, "WT" - the tensile energy in gf-cm/cm, and "RT" -
the tensile resilience in percent.
For both the linen and ramie/cotton samples, data isshown in dimensionless form by dividing the results for the
treated sample by that for the untreated control. The two
most important tests that apply to what is generally
~ 7'3
considered to be the "drape" of a fabric are the bending
stiffness "B" and the shear stiffness "G".
FIG. 48 is the structural model commonly accepted as
representative of the internal structure of liquid crystal
polymer fibers. In the case of lyotropic liquid crystal
fibers such as KEVLAR~, fatigue treatment is believed to
generate major cracks between the so called macro fibrils,
some of which are pulled free from the surface. Smaller
cracks at various levels of the structure are believed to
provide access for dyestuff and are believed to be
responsible for decreasing the bending stiffness of the
fiber. In the case of thermotropic liquid crystal fibers,
natural disruptions in the linear organization of the
structure at various levels due to tangles of macro fibrils
or fibrils are believed to occur. These areas segregate out
into quasi-periodic nodes, having a superficial resemblance
to the growth nodes occurring in bast fibers, during
spinning or subsequent heat-treating. Stresses generated
during fatigue treatment predominately act on these areas,
Zo since they are weaker in compression than the bulk fiber.
FIGS. 33 and 35 show fibrils which appear to be anchored
into the swollen nodes.
Referring now by reference numerals to the drawings,
and first to FIGS. 49-53, a single vortex material treatment
assembly is indicated generally by numeral 510. This
~ ~ ~ 3 ~ ri' ~
assembly 510 comprises a hollow cylinder 512, the curved
wall of which is defined by curved plates 513, top plates
540 and base plates 542, as shown in FIGS. 49, 50 and 51.
The curved plates 513 of the hollow cylinder 512, as well as
all other components of the present invention not delineated
to the contrary, can be constructed out of a variety of
materials such as various metals, durable plastics, ceramics
and so forth with the preferred material being steel. There
are four gas jet assemblies, indicated generally as numeral
520 spaced at equal distances from each other along the
circumference of the hollow cylinder 512.
As shown in FIG. 49, gas is supplied to the gas jet
assemblies by gas hoses 522, preferable constructed out of
rubber or any flexible material that can carry gas at high
pressure. The gas hoses 522 are attached over a tube inlet
524 to provide gas into the gas jet assembly 520. Each hose
522 connects to a single distribution manifold 526 which
supplies gas from a second larger gas supply line 528. This
distribution manifold 526, a conventional gas tube
interconnection, is attached to the support frame 530 that
is for the entire assembly 510.
Referring now to FIG. 52, gas is supplied from tube
inlet 524 into the manifold 532 that supplies pressurized
gas to through passage 534 which communicates with
submanifold 536 that ejects the gas by means of a
2~3~`7~)
converging/diverging nozzle 538. This converging/diverging
nozzle 538 is formed by top plate 540 and base plate 542.
Both of these plates 540 and 542 are attached to the curved
plates 513 by means of locking screws 544 and 546
respectively. The top plate 540 is fastened to the base
plate 542 by means of screw 548. The manifold 532 is
fastened to the base plate 542 by means of screw 550. Any
equivalent structure which creates a gas nozzle tangential
to the interior of the curved surface may be used.
Referring now to FIG. 50, the gas jet assembly propels
gas at a direction substantially tangential to the interior
surface of the hollow cylinder 512 as shown by numeral 552.
The gas used is typically air compressed to 30 p.s.i.,
however, depending on the sensitivity of the textile fabric
to be treated, this pressure can be varied between 5 to 120
p.s.i. It is found that this process is most effective when
the air used to treat the garments is heated substantially
above room temperature. It has been found that 350 degrees
Fahrenheit is the practical limit for most textile fabrics.
As shown in FIGS. 50 and 51, the gas jet assemblies 520
serve the dual purpose of propelling the fabric 554 around
the inside of the hollow cylinder 512 and simultaneously
vibrating the garment as it passes over the nozzle 538. The
fabric 554 is treated four times each revolution as it is
driven clockwise within the hollow cylinder 512 at a rate of
2~ 75
about 25 revolutions per second. The fabric 554 makes a
combined sliding, impacting, and rolling motion while
traversing the interior surface of the cylinder 512, which
defines the outer perimeter of the vortex. The tangential
gas lines indicated by 552 flow at sonic velocity or even
higher. Exhaust air, lint and other debris escape through
the central port 556.
When the material 554 comes in contact with the
tangential gas jets 552, it will cause the material 554 to
vibrate violently. These vibrations take the form of saw-
toothed waves that travel rapidly down the material 554 with
small bending radii and high speed combining to break apart
fiber to fiber bonds created by finish or sizing.
In addition, the structure of the material 554 is
loosened as well as any component yarn that may be present
in the material 554. With enough treatment, the material
554 can disintegrate back to its original state of loose
fibers.
The curved plates 513 are restrained against the
radially directed force generated by the rapidly cycling
material 554 by blocks 574 that are fastened to both a front
support plate 594 and a back support plate 533 by dual bolts
576. The back support plate 533 is attached to the support
frame 530. There is a bolt 580 perpendicular to the curved
plate 513 which locks said plate 513 in a fixed location.
2~3~
There are two sets of four of these blocks 574 equidistantly
spaced around the circumference of the hollow cylinder 512.
Referring now to FIG. 51, the front support plate 594
is attached to the base plate 542. A cover 590 is attached
by a hinge 596 to the front support plate 594. There is
also a latch 598 which can fasten the cover 590 to the front
support plate 594 and is located on the opposite side of the
cover 590 from the hinge 596. The cover 590, in the
preferred embodiment, has a viewing port 591 constructed out
of glass, plastic or similar material.
In addition to the direct action of the gas jets, the
material 554 is treated by a combination of rolling, sliding
and impacting with the walls of hollow cylinder 512. It can
be appreciated that is the smooth surface of these walls is
broken up by the placement of knobs, abrasive material or
protrusions, the ageing process will be greatly accelerated.
Small particles, such as small metal balls, wire portions,
ruhber, plastic, or wood and so forth, when added to the
cylinder 512 will accelerate to a higher speed than the
material 554. The relative velocity of small metal
particles will be high enough to cause the particles to
completely penetrate the material 554 giving it a "buckshot"
appearance. Similarly, adding sand to the vortex will give
material 554 a "sandblasted" look.
~ r~
An aspect of this invention to consider is that metal
parts such as buttons and zippers can be destroyed by this
process in a few seconds. Furthermore, burrs raised by
metal to metal impacts can loosen seams in the material 554.
Covering the inside of the hollow cylinder 512 with rubber
or its equivalent, alleviates this problem. Alternatively,
buttons or zippers may be added to the garment after
treatment.
In the alternative, a second hollow cylinder 514, which
is a mirror image of the first hollow cylinder 512, can be
attached to intersect and provide common area 563, as shown
in FIG. 53. This prevents roll-up and tangle of the
material 554 by reversing the direction of rotation of the
material 554 once each cycle. The air supply in each hollow
cylinder 512 and 514 is equal, so there is very little
transfer of air from one vortex to another without the
material 554 present. The material 554 is pressed against
the interior of the cylinder 512 by centrifugal force. When
the material 554 enters the common area 563, it is no longer
coerced by the cylinder wall 512 to cycle in the first
vortex. The material 554 continues on a tangent dirQctly
into the second vortex of hollow cylinder 514 and then
cycles back to the first vortex of hollow cylinder 512 after
completing a figure eight pattern. Any rotation in the
vortex of hollow cylinder 512 is undone by counter rotation
~ 7 ~
in the vortex of hollow cylinder 514. Each hollow cylinder
512, 514 has a port 560 and 561 respectively, to allow for
the escape of excess air, lint or debris.
It is not intended that the scope of the invention be
limited to the specific embodiment illustrated and
described. Rather, it is intended that the scope of the
invention be defined by the appended claims and their
quivalents.
