Note : Les descriptions sont présentées dans la langue officielle dans laquelle elles ont été soumises.
2148030
An Exfoliating Product
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
This invention relates to an exfoliating product for
use on the human body, particularly but not exclusively an
exfoliating product for use on the lips, and to a process
for manufacturing the product.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Exfoliating products for exfoliating the skin for
example, are well known. The known forms of exfoliator are
in the form of a cream or liquid which contains in
suspension an exfoliating material in the form of an
abrasive. The cream or liquid is rubbed onto the part of
the body which it is desired to exfoliate and the action of
rubbing the product over the skin provides a scrubbing
action which removes dead skin cells and loose flaky
particles of skin. The product is then removed by washing
and the combination of the washing action and the abrasive
nature of the exfoliating product dries the skin. This means
that it is then necessary to use a moisturising cream or
similar product to prevent the skin from remaining too dry.
If the skin remains too dry it will exacerbate the problem
of loose flaky patches of skin for which the exfoliator was
used in the first place, thus, compounding the problem.
The known exfoliating creams must be used with care
since they can be too abrasive if used on sensitive parts of
the skin such as the lips.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention seeks to provide an exfoliating
product for use on such sensitive areas as the lips and
which does not subsequently require the use of a
moisturising cream to compensate for the natural oils
removed by the exfoliating action.
According to the present invention there is provided a
process of manufacturing an exfoliator for the lips in the
2148030
form of a solid stick comprising an anhydrous base material
and 2% to 50% by weight of an exfoliating material, the
process comprising forming a mix of the ingredients by
heating and agitating until a smooth homogenous mix is
formed, allowing cooling the mix to a solid, subjecting the
solid to a microwave process, reheating the mix to a pouring
temperature and pouring the mix into a mould to form the
final product.
Preferably, the process includes adding an emollient to
the base material. The exfoliating material may be selected
from plant material, synthetic polymers or mineral
complexes, and/or may comprise a particulate material and
has a particle size of 10-140 mesh. The exfoliating material
may include a natural nut shell in particulate form.
The base material preferably includes wax-like
materials chosen from at least one of plant waxes, amorphous
hydrocarbon waxes, synthetic waxes, silicone waxes,
petroleum-based waxes, beeswax, plant butters, hydrogenated
oils and plant oils, fatty esters including lanolin
derivatives, and fatty alcohols including lanolin
derivatives. The base material may also include at least one
of the following:- plant oils, alphatic esters, alphatic
alcohols, petrolatum, hydrocarbon oils, silicone fluids,
polymers of iso and normal butenes and sorbitol esters. The
base material may include products from the following group
of materials, namely, emollient and glossing material chosen
from plant oils, fatty esters including lanolin derivatives,
alphatic esters, fatty alcohols including lanolin
derivatives, alphatic alcohols, petrolatum, hydrocarbon
oils, silicone derivatives, hydrocarbon oils, polymers of
iso and normal butenes, hydrogenated oils and plant oils,
sorbitol esters and mixtures thereof, and the products of
said group may comprise from 15% to 80% by weight of the
exfoliator.
The process may also include adding one or more of the
following products to the ingredients, namely, water,
dyestuff, pigments, mineral complexes, W absorbers, anti-
2148030
oxidants, fragrance, preservatives, humectants, vitamins,plant extracts, glycols, polyethylene glycol esters,
polyethylene glycols, film forming polymers, solvents and
skin conditioning agents.
According to a preferred form of the process of the
present invention there is provided a process for
manufacturing an exfoliator material for use on the lips
including the steps of:
1. preparing a dispersion of pigments in castor oil
2. preparing a moisturising mix of moisturising
ingredients by heating the mix to 80-85C and mixing
until homogeneity is achieved,
3. preparing an emollient mix comprising wax or wax-like
and oily materials and heating the mix to 80-85C and
mixing or agitating until the mix is homogenised,
4. adding said dispersion of pigments to the emollient
mix,
5. adding the moisturising mix to the emollient mix, and
mixing or agitating until the resultant mix is fully
homogenised,
6. cooling the resultant mix slowly to 60-65C
7. add exfoliating material to said resultant mix and mix
until fully homogenised,
8. store in the mix in solid blocks by pouring into
vessels at 59-61C max and allowing to cool,
9. microwave portions to a temperature of 62-65C
10. stir at 62-65C to ensure full homogenisation, and pour
into moulds to form the final product,
11. assemble the final product to a holder.
The invention also provides a product formed by the
process.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Preferred embodiments of lip exfoliators in accordance
with the present invention and a process for making such
exfoliators will now be described by way of example.
A lip exfoliator is in the form of a solid stick
similar to a conventional lipstick and is dispensed in a
21480~0
cylindrical holder or dispenser similar to a conventional
lipstick with a rotable section on a screw thread by which
the solid stick can be caused to project out of an open end
of the holder for use. A cap is provided to close the open
end.
The stick is a moulded wax/oil based emulsion stick
containing an evenly distributed granular material such as
granulated walnut shell. The details of the composition are
set out in the following table which lists the ingredients,
their prime function, and their percentage by weight of the
total contents of the stick.
MATERIAL FUNCTION % W/W
Octyldodecanol Emollient 36.79
Ozokerite Contributes to solid structure 13.00
Water Carrier for moisturising agent 8.50
Walnut Shell Powder Skin exfoliator/abrasive 10.00
Beeswax Contributes to solid structure 9.00
Carnauba Contributes to solid structure 6.00
Castor Oil Pigment carrier and emollient 6.00
Sorbitan fatty esters Part of emulsifying system 3.00
Flavour/Fragrance Flavour/fragrance 1.00
Hydrogenated
Castor Oils Part of emulsifying system 4.00
Octyl Methoxycinnamate W absorber 0.50
Tocopherol Anti-oxidant 0.10
Sodium Hyaluronate Moisturising agent 0.01
Propylparaben Preservative 0.10
Pigments Colourant 2.00
It will be understood that the proportions of the
individual ingredients may be changed, this table being one
preferred example only
A preferred method of manufacture of the product will now
be described.
Phase 1 Preparation of Pigment Dispersions.
The pigments are dispersed in Castor Oil using a "Bead"
mill.
Phase 2 Preparation of Moisturising Complex.
(a) To a suitable stainless steel vessel fitted with an
agitator, the Sodium Hyaluronate is added to part of the water
(to yield a 1% solution) and mixed until the Sodium Hyaluronate
2148030
is completely hydrated and the mix is clear and homogenous.
(b) To a suitable steam jacketed/heated vessel fitted with
an agitator is added to the remaining water, Sorbitan Fatty
Esters and Hydrogenated Castor Oils. The mix is heated to 80-
85C with stirring (when sufficiently molten). Whilst
maintaining the temperature at 80-85C, the Sodium Hyaluronate
solution (2a) is added and stirring is continued until mixture
is smooth and homogenous.
Phase 3 Preparation of completed bulk.
(a) To the main vessel (steam jacketed/heated and equipped
with a suitable speed adjustable propeller agitator), the
following materials are added in sequence:- Carnauba, Beeswax,
Octyldodecanol, Ozokerite, Tocopherol, Octyl Methoxycinnamate,
and Propylparaben. This mixture is heated with agitation (when
sufficiently molten) to 80-85C and further mixed until
homogenous.
(b) To the molten mix at 80-85C are added the pigment
dispersions (Phase 1) in Castor Oil with continuing agitation
and maintaining temperature at 80-85C.
(c) The Moisturising Complex (Phase 2) is then added to
the molten mix at 80-85C with continuing agitation and
maintaining temperature at 80-85C. Note that aeration of bulk
must be avoided.
(d) When mix is totally homogenous, slow cooling is
commenced with slow agitation until bulk reaches 60-65C whilst
avoiding solidification of mix on the sides of the vessel.
(e) To the mix at 60-65C, the following materials are
added in sequence with continuing agitation:- Flavour, and
Walnut Shell Powder; the mix is further agitated whilst
maintaining temperature at 60-65C until homogenous. The mix
is tested at this stage for shade, odour and texture approval.
f) This finished bulk is emptied (dropped) from the vessel
at 59-61C 61C maximum drop temperature - higher drop
temperatures would tend to result in sedimentation of
exfoliating material/granules.
Actual Bulk Specifications
2148030
Melting Point (slip point) 58-66C
Water Content (% w/w) 8-9%
Granular content (dry % w/w) 9-10%
The product may then be stored in solid form.
(1) Pre-melt Procedure
(a) Quantities of the solid stored bulk are placed in
suitable microwave compatible containers and set to microwave
for approximately 20-25 minutes, the approximate time for 4 x
1 kg of bulk to reach 62-65C. Pre-melting using the microwave
technique minimises fragrances and water loss and colour
deterioration.
(b) The microwaved bulk is then transferred to a suitable
thermostatically controlled stainless steel vessel (set at 62-
65C) fitted with a variable speed agitator and base outlet.
The bulk is continuously agitated at 62-65C, whilst avoiding
aeration and setting of exfoliation granules.
(2) Final product moulding procedure
(a) The final product in formed in a two-part "split"
mould in which 100 sticks, referred as bullets, are formed.
The mould is firstly dissembled, and cleaned, then sprayed with
volatile silicone, which forms a mould release agent. The
mould is re-assembled and warmed to 50-55C using a lamp or
oven. The pre-warming of the moulds avoids "flow lines" in
finished bullets.
(b) The warmed mould is placed centrally beneath the
outlet of the thermostatically controlled vessel. The outlet
is opened and molten bulk allowed to flow into the mould until
full.
(c) The filled mould is then placed on a freezer table/bed
and allowed to cool for approximately 5 minutes before excess
bulk is scraped from the top of the mould.
(d) The filled mould is allowed to cool for a further 10-
15 minutes before it is dissembled and the resulting moulded
"bullets" are individually removed from each "split" layer.
(e) One "bullet" from each mould is cut vertically in half
to observe and ensure correct distribution of exfoliating
granules. If not to standard, moulding conditions are re-
~148030
established and remaining bullets from that mould are set asidefor re-moulding.
Moulded stick Specification
Breaking Point (Chatillon) 7S0 - 1078
Each split moulded bullet is placed in the component
mechanism ensuring that the face slope of the bullet aligns
with that of the component and that the bullet is pushed fully
home and upright in the godet within the mechanism. The
component cap is then pushed fully home over the mechanism.
The above assembly is then base labelled, batch coded and
"sleeved" prior to passing through a heat tunnel. The heat
tunnel shrinks the perforated "sleeve" around the component for
the purpose of hygiene sealing.
